File:R2.png

2025-08-04T17:27:49Z

Arodgers24:

Speedy 300

2025-08-04T17:27:06Z

Arodgers24:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is laser cutter equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Trotec
|Has model=Speedy 300
|Has serial number=140801D83D63 / 01411-05631 (Air Filter)
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File:laser_cutter_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Laser Engraver Icon
|Has iconwname=File:laser_cutter_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:laser_cutter_image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The Trotec Speedy 300 Laser Engraver
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1223
|Has ace=Jack Sides;jsides22@georgefox.edu
}}

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Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

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Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Trotec Speedy 300 laser engraver is used to engrave and cut materials based on specified images and shapes. This is useful for making enclosures out of acrylic, engraving designs into many materials, creating trophies, and cutting any two dimensional shape out of a variety of materials. It also has a rotary attachment which enables cylindrical objects such as drinking glasses and hydro flasks to be engraved with detailed designs.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qF8dHQPy6o}}[[File:Hydrowiki.jpg|thumb|400x400px|none|Example of an engraved Hydroflask. ]]

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

*Inkscape - The program you will be using to design is Inkscape. It allows you to type in words, edit logos, make your own logos and such to engrave or cut out of your material.
*Job Control - The program that interacts with the laser cutter to perform a cut. Job Control lets you set up/create Material Profiles, change between the HoneyComb Table and the Rotary tool (mostly used for Hydroflasks), and choose a location to cut on your material.

*Focusing tool - Used to focus the laser cutter.

*Stroke - This is the type of line that should be used when cutting.

*Repeat Cut Line - Can be used in JobControl to reproduce the same cut line that was just cut.
*Outline Job - Can be used in JobControl to trace the job that is going to be cut to show where job extends.
*Bitmap - Representation of an image as bits of information (pixels); used to allow logos/stencils to be changed into colors.
*Vector - Representation of an image as shapes, rather than bits; used to allow logos/stencils to be modified as objects.
*Trace Bitmap - Can be used on a bitmap to to turn it into a vector.
*Honeycomb Table - This is the honeycomb shaped metal tray that holds flat material during a cut. It is used for most cut jobs.
*Rotary Tool - When engraving water bottles or glasses, this accessory is used to hold the object in place as well as rotate it while performing a cut.

====Material Settings====

* '''[[Media:LICENSE KEY S3-4397.pdf|License Key Information]]'''
* '''[[Media:TrotecMaterials 2022.09.08 10.40.55.xml|Speedy 300 Material Settings 8 SEP 2022]]

====User Manual====

* '''[[Media:JobControl-Manual-EN.pdf|Job Control Operation Manual]]'''
* '''[[Media:8011-speedy300-manual-en.pdf|Speedy 300 Operation Manual]]'''

==Training==
====Operation====

Performing a cut or engrave with the laser will always begin with Inkscape by opening/importing an image, pdf, DXF, or similar file. If you do not have a file yet then it can also be used to create geometries. When you use SolidWorks to generate a .dxf file the correct face must be selected prior to saving the file. Once a file has been brought into Inkscape, it must be adjusted so that job control can distinguish between what should be cut out of the material and what should be engraved. A cut is indicated by a hairline red stroke (in the RGB color scheme) and an engrave is indicated by the color black. After the graphic is prepared, it is transferred to job control using [File] > [Print] and making sure trotec is selected as the device. It will then pop up in the job list on the right hand side of JobControl. At this point the laser cutter should be set up by turning it on, placing the material on the honeycomb table, and then raising the table to focus the laser. The final steps are then to click the USB icon in job control to connect to the laser cutter, drag the job onto the to scale honeycomb table, set the correct material properties, and then click the play button to perform the cut/engrave. When performing an engrave on a cylindrical object, the set up process in Inkscape is the same but there are a few differences in job control and laser cutter itself. Primarily, the honeycomb table must be exchanged for the rotary tool, which must be done while the laser cutter is OFF. The laser cutter should automatically recognize that the rotary is attached. The only change in job control is that the accessory should be changed in the settings from the honeycomb table to the rotary tool.
 
 
A Training Venture (TV) that uses the Laser Cutter is the [[Windchimes]]

====Demonstration====

First, import a George Fox logo into Inkscape and set it up so that the logo is an engrave with a cut circle surrounding it. Once this is done, print the job to job control and run the job on a piece of scrap material.

====General Procedure====
[[File:trotec_laser_engraving.mp4|thumb|none|400px|This video shows the complete process of completing an engrave. See below for details on doing this. ]]

#'''Setting up a Job'''
##First off, open a new document in Inkscape on your own machine or one of the lab computers (File > New, or Ctrl + N). Next, you’ll want to set the dimensions of your page by going to [File] > [Document Properties] (Ctrl + Shift + D). Your page can be as big as you like, as long as it’s larger than the shape you’re working with. However, always '''make sure that the document is square.''' There’s some weird quirk with the software that makes this necessary, keeping the document square will keep you from running into a lot of problems later on. Under the “Custom Size” section in document properties, set your hight and width to something larger than the longest dimension of your object. When you export the shape to the laser cutter, Inkscape will export anything within the document canvas and ignore anything that extends beyond it’s borders.
##Now you’re ready to create a shape to be cut or engraved. a.) If you’re importing a shape from SolidWorks, the file should be saved as a .DXF file. Simply drag the file onto your Inkscape document or import it via [File] > [Import] (Ctrl + I). If prompted to select scaling options, choose “read from file” and click OK. Next, select the object and go to [Object] > [Ungroup] (Ctrl + Shift + G). This will allow you to select the text objects that make up the SolidWorks watermark and delete them. While you’re here, make sure that there is only one copy of each line, as SolidWorks often likes to make duplicates. Finally, you may want to select all of the remaining objects and regroup them with [Object] > [Group] (Ctrl + G). Skip to step 5. b.) If you want to cut or engrave from an image, the best way to do so is from a vector image file. Vector graphics files store the lines, shapes, and colors that make up an image rather than storing data based on pixels as in a typical raster image. These lines, shapes, and colors is what the laser cutter interprets when cutting and engraving. If you’ve designed something in Adobe Illustrator, Inkscape, or other vector-based drawing applications, you can save your image directly to this format. If you’re looking for images online, search for vector images. These will most commonly be in the format of .SVG, .EPS, and some types of .PDF. You can import these types of images into your Inkscape document by simply dragging them onto the canvas or importing them via [File] > [Import] (Ctrl + I). Skip to step 5. c.) If you want to engrave or cut a raster (pixel-based) image, you will need to convert it to a vector shape. Drag your image onto the Inkscape canvas and proceed to step 3. [[File:...gfuLogo.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Inkscape can convert an image into vectors based on the composition of the source image. To do this, select your image, right click, and select Trace Bitmap, (Alt + Shift + B). You will be given several options shown below. Check the “Live Preview” box which will give you a better idea what’s going to happen. For the George Fox logo, we want to separate the colors from each other, so we’ll select “Colors” under the “Multiple Scans” section. The number of scans you specify correlates to the number of objects that Inkscape will create based on the different parts of the image. Since our example is a simple logo with 3 colors, 3 scans will be sufficient. Depending on your image, you’ll have to play around with these settings a bit. For a back and white image, you’ll probably want to use “Brightness Cuttoff” under “Single Scan” and adjust the “Threshold” value until the preview looks correct. Once you click OK, the vector will appear directly on top of the original image, so make sure to drag it off and move or delete the original image. [[File:...traceBitmap.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##You will now have a vector object that consists of several parts. Separate them by right-clicking the vector and selecting “Ungroup” (Ctrl + Shift + G). Now you’ll be able to alter each part of the object. In our example, we’ll go with the one on the right and delete the one on the left. [[File:...separateParts.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Now we can manipulate the colors. Select the object and go to [Object] > [Fill and Stroke] (usually it will already be open on the right sidebar). You will see Fill, Stroke Paint, and Stroke Style on the top right. Fill changes the color of a piece, Stroke Paint changes the color of a stroke, and Stroke Style changes the thickness and style of a stroke. You will see values for R, G, and B, which control color. When each color has a 0 next to it, it will be fully black. When the red has a 255 next to it and the others have 0, it will be fully red. The machine will cut material ONLY when it sees a stroke that is 255, 0, 0, and it will engrave material ONLY when it sees 0, 0, 0. Set these values on your object depending on what you want to engrave or cut, and make sure these values are exact before continuing. Anything that you do not want to cut or engrave, either delete or set to white, which is 255, 255, 255. Be sure to make each a “Flat Color” so that the color is constant throughout the entire object.
##Now that you have an object with the correct fill and stroke, you’ll want to resize it to the size you want. Select your object, and in the top bar of Inkscape you’ll see options for height and width. If you want to scale the object without altering it’s height and width ratios, lock the two together by clicking the lock icon. Measure your material and set the height and width accordingly, or set the values to your desired size. If you imported your file from SolidWorks you shouldn’t need to change these dimensions, just verify that they match the size of your object in SolidWorks. [[File:...Stroke.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Once you have finished your design, it’s time to send it to the Laser Cutter! Go to [File] > [Print] (Ctrl + P) and make sure it is sending to Trotec Engraver but do not click [OK] yet.
##Select [Preferences] to open the engraver properties. Check both “Take From Application” and “Minimize to Jobsize.” These settings tell the program to assume the canvas is the same size as it is in Inkscape and then crop to the size of your print. Also verify “Image Mode” is set to “Color” and “Enhanced Geometries” is not selected. '''NOTE''': “Take From Application” will only work if your Inkscape canvas is square. Make sure to set this correctly, or else set the print size to something larger than either dimension of your print (so long as “Minimize to Jobsize” is enabled.)[[File:...printing.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Save these settings by selecting the button that shows the JC logo near the bottom of the Printing Preferences and select Print to send the design to Job Control.
#'''Setting up the Laser Cutter'''
##Turn on the machine using the power switch located on the back of the machine in the left corner. The machine will go through a startup procedure where the cutting bed lowers and the laser travels to its home position. Note that the lid must be closed for the startup procedure to begin. You will hear be some beeping coming from the machine.
##Place your material onto the honeycomb table. '''ALWAYS''' place it in a corner, snug against two sides of the bed. This way if something doesn't go quite perfectly in the cutting process you can return the material back to that corner and try again without having to scrap the entire piece.
##Now it’s time to focus the laser onto your material. Begin by moving the laser head over the middle of your material. Place the focusing tool on the laser head and slowly raise the table until the the focusing tool just barely touches the material. Be sure to raise the bed extra slowly when approaching the focusing tool, so that you can stop the moment you are at the correct height. Use cation, as there is also no safety in place to prevent the material from crashing into the head and damaging this delicate, expensive assembly. The focusing tool will likely fall off the head; this is fine so long as you didn’t overshoot the point at which it first touched. Reference the images below for proper focusing tool placement and laser head controls.[[File:Laser Focus Tool.png|none|thumb|404x404px| Proper placement of the focusing tool. ]][[File:Laser Controls.png|none|thumb|296x296px| Laser control pad. (1) Raise and lower the bed. (2) Move the laser head (5) Air assist. Make sure it is always on to vent fumes properly. ]]
##Remove the focusing tool and return it to its home.
##Press the USB icon found in the bottom right corner of Job Control to connect to the laser cutter. The laser should beep a few times and then a the background of job control will change to a honeycomb pattern to represent the actual honeycomb table. Also, the USB icon will change to a play icon.
# Cutting with Tortec Ruby
There are four tasks you will need to complete in order to cut/engrave using Trotec Ruby
## First, you need to get the image from inkscape into Trotec Ruby. This can be done by simply downloading the file and dropping it into Trotec Ruby.
## Second, you will click onto the design tab. All you need to do is verify that everything is the correct color that you need and everything looks fine. Once completed. Click on the blue "Create Job" button. This will allow you to move on.
[[File:Ex1.png|thumb|600x600px|none]]
## Third, you will need to prepare your cut/engrave. To do this you will need to align the laser with where you want to cut by dragging the grey square box. Then you need to select the material that you will be using to cut/engrave. DO NOT CHANGE ANY SETTINGS WITHOUT APPROVAL FROM SUPERVISOR.
[[File:Ex3.png|thumb|600x600px|none]]
## Finally, to produce the image press the "Push to Laser" button, this will open the next tab
[[File:Ex4.png|thumb|600x600px|none]]
## To start the cut/engrave just press the play button. Remember to RESET THE SPACE once your cut/engrave is don't and not to leave any material in the laser cutter.
#'''Cutting with the Rotary Tool'''
##The Rotary Tool lets you cut and engrave cylindrical objects, the most popular of these being Hydroflasks. This part applies after you have already sent the file from Inkscape to the Laser Cutter.
##Turn OFF the machine, remove the honeycomb table, and plug in the rotary tool. The rest of the laser cutter setup is the same as above.
##Continue As though you were cutting/engraving anything else until you hit the design tab. Hit the rotary button. It looks like a cylinder.
##Enter the diameter of your bottle (using the Calipers in the lab), as it tells the Rotary Tool how fast to turn as it engraves. Do not mess this up, or you will have a stretched/squeezed image. [[File:R1.png|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##Once you click OK/apply, the window background will look like the image below.
##Double click/drag the job onto the window. It should automatically flip the image so that it will engrave in the proper orientation even though the bottle is held horizontally. [[File:R2.png|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##If you click view it will show you an animation of what the bottle will look like to give you an idea of how to position your image.
##Next, pick the material Hydroflask → Black Mug for a Hydroflask, or one of the glass profiles if engraving glass, and now you are ready to engrave your thing!
##When you are finished, RESET THE SPACE! Put the Rotary Tool away and replace it with the HoneyComb Table.

==Safety==

*Always make sure the material you are using is safe to use. There is an especially high risk when engraving plastics. Fumes from plastics can be toxic. Make sure you find the specific material you are using and check to see if it produces toxic fumes when burned. Never attempt to engrave PVC as it produces chlorine gas (the stuff they used in WWI).
*Once the laser is focused do not touch the button that raises the bed or the laser will crash into the machine which causes damage to the machine.
*Be careful when moving the laser head when using the rotary tool because it has protruding parts that will harm the laser cutter if a crash occurs.
*Keep an eye on active cuts because fires can be started when cutting wood or acrylic with paper covering.
*If you feel unsure about anything located in the laser cutting procedure make sure to consult the supervisor for assistance.

==Cut List==
===Approved Materials===
* Acrylic
* Wood
* Vegetable tanned leather

===DO NOT CUT===
* Any plastics containing PVC (polyvinyl chloride)
* Chrome tanned leather
* Hardboard (Masonite)

If you want to cut a material not listed here, please talk with the Maker Hub staff.

==Certification==
Complete the Prototype Lab - Laser Cutters (Speedy 300/400) Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}} (this module satisfies requirements for both the Speedy 300 and the Speedy 400). The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
'''First of all, check your export settings'''

*There are multiple combinations of settings that will work for export; which means that depending on who was using the machine last, settings may be different. These are the settings I (the ace) have found to work most consistently: Set your Inkscape document to square by going to [File] > [Document Properties] ( Ctl+Shift+D) and set both the Height and Width fields to the same value, bigger than your shape. Why this is an issue is yet unknown, Inkscape just doesn’t like exporting non-square documents with the other settings to follow. Print the document with File > Print or Ctl+P. Click preferences and check both “Take From Application” and “Minimize to Jobsize.” These settings tell the program to assume the canvas is the same size as Inkscape and then crop to the size of your print. Also verify “image mode” is set to “color.” These settings will fix most common issues.

'''Cuts are not being made'''

*Some export settings may be incorrect. Verify that your settings are set to those described above. These settings will fix most issues of lines not cutting.
*Verify that all stokes are set to red with a stroke width between 1pt and .25pt (.25pt recommended)
*Verify that your print is entirely within the canvas of Inkscape.
*In Preferences, within Print options, verify “image mode” is set to “color.” Otherwise, your red stokes will not be read as color, and not be seen by the laser cutter.

'''The cuts did not go all the way through the material'''

*Are you using the correct material profile? If not, reset the job (described below) and repeat the cut with the correct material profile. If it appears that the cut went partway through the material you may want to use a setting that is less powerful than your material would normally use (again, described below)
*You should always place your material in a corner. This way, if the cuts do not go all the way through you can reposition it easily. DO NOT MOVE THE JOB in JobControl! If you put the material in a corner, should be able to place the material back where it was, and then reset the job in JobControl by right clicking on the job in JobControl and selecting the reset job option, or by pressing Ctl+R. Next, run the cut again on the smallest thickness setting for your material. For example, if you are cutting 1/4 inch acrylic and it does not cut all the way through, repeat the cut with the 1/8 inch acrylic setting.
*If you are using the correct material profile for your material and cuts are not going all the way through, please email me and let me know so that I can take a look and fix the settings. ZCogswell18@georgefox.edu

'''The laser went really fast leaving a sort of light engrave rather than a cut'''

*You did not select the correct material, and the job ran with the ‘standard’ setting. '''DO NOT MOVE THE MATERIAL!''' You can reset the job by right clicking on the job in Job Control and selecting the reset job option, or by pressing Ctl+R. Then, select the correct material in the upper left dropdown menu and run the job again. This way you do not need to reposition the material or job, which you will almost never do perfectly.

'''The laser repeated the cut multiple times'''

*Some material profiles, such as half-inch, acrylic are set to repeat the cut line multiple times, as to get a cleaner product. If the cuts look good, this is normal.
*Are you importing from SolidWorks? For some reason, SolidWorks likes to have duplicate lines quite often. In Inkscape, click on the cut that was repeated and drag to move it. If you move the line and another line is underneath, you need to delete all duplicates in the file. Often if you have a thin stoke (.25pt) and zoom out, the duplicate lines will be visually darker, allowing you to identify and delete them.

'''The acrylic is melted or blackened'''

*Verify that you are using the correct material profile. If you are, for example, cutting 1/4 acrylic with the 1/2 setting, the acrylic will be melted and not give clean cuts.
*Are you importing from SolidWorks? As mentioned above, “''For some reason, SolidWorks likes to have duplicate lines quite often. In Inkscape, click on the cut that was repeated and drag to move it. If you move the line and another line is underneath, you need to delete all duplicates in the file. Often if you have a thin stoke (.25pt) and zoom out, the duplicate lines will be visually darker, allowing you to identify and delete them.”''

'''Cuts are not clean'''

*Is the machine focused properly for your material? If you’re not sure, or even if you are (you may have bumped the bed control buttons accidentally) refocus it.
*Check the lens for dust because this can interfere with the laser. If it is dirty, see the maintenance section on how to clean it.

'''The material is being cut in unintended places'''

*Check your Inkscape file and make sure there are no red stokes in places you did not want
*Make sure there are no other jobs on the work area (grey rectangles in the honeycomb area of JobControl). If there are, drag them back into the list on the right side or delete them

'''Inkscape is not printing to JobControl'''

* If the status on the print window (in the "Select Printer" section, just below the printer options) says "Error" instead of "Ready," try the following:
** Start → Settings → Devices → Printers & scanners → Trotec Engraver v10.5.0 → Open queue → Printer → Cancel All Documents
*** Deleting all of the items from the queue will also work
* If the above does not work, contact the lab supervisors or Justin.

*

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

To keep the laser cutter running and cutting smoothly, the mirror and lens should be periodically cleaned. This is on top of the general cleaning that should be done to keep the machine dust and scrap free. There are also filters in the exhaust system that must be changed once the activated carbon has been used up.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Done
|-
|1
|General cleaning
|As needed after a cut
|Student
|N/A
|-
|2
|Clean the Mirror
|As needed
|Volunteer
|
|-
|3
|Clean the Lens
|As needed
|Volunteer
|
|-
|4
|Change Filters
|When filter usage reaches 100%
|Ace
|
|}

#The honeycomb should be removed and the metal bed itself should be should be swept/cleaned more or less daily. Cleaners are available to help in this process. Green is general cleaning use this for the bed and metal surfaces. Blue is glass cleaner, use this for the plexiglass surfaces. The front door of the Speedy 300 may be removed using the spring loaded pin on the right to remove cut pieces stuck in the door. The air vents at the rear of the machine should be kept clean of debris. Clean in a manner similar to the bed.
#The lense, mirror, and cone should be inspected daily or more often as needed, especially after wood or other “dusty”/”smokey” materials are cut. The lense will need cleaning when particles are visible on the surface (hold up to light if need be). The lense may be removed using the threaded nut below the lense (see photo). The lense should be cleaned with the lense paper and cleaner available in the kit (lasercutter drawer) on both sides. Put some cleaner on the lense and gently rub the paper over the surface of the lense. The cone itself threads into the assembly below the lense nut. The cone may be cleaned with a paper towel and water or another cleaning agent. The mirror should be inspected and cleaned in the same manner as the lense.
#See above.
#The air filter to the right of the Speedy 300 will occasionally need maintenance. The most common issue is a full pre-filter (P/N 37722). This will be indicated on the filter itself by poor airflow/suction. When replacing this, use a face mask and gloves (close the lab when doing this). Open the top of the air filter with the large 10mm hex wrench in the kit. Remove the prefilter and place it in a bag for disposal. Insert a new prefilter and close the lid. Pre-filters are used to increase the lifespan of other, harder to replace and more expensive filters in the system. Less often, other filters will need replacing. These include the larger box filter (P/N 41041), additional pre-filter-type mat filters, and activated carbon. This should not need to happen as often. Follow the above procedure for pre-filter and the [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJkCgAVbAEU&feature=youtu.be video] to replace the full filter setup. Be careful not to spill activate carbon if doing a full replacement, it is difficult to clean up.

Speedy 300

2025-08-04T17:25:25Z

Arodgers24: Undo revision 11715 by Arodgers24 (talk)

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is laser cutter equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Trotec
|Has model=Speedy 300
|Has serial number=140801D83D63 / 01411-05631 (Air Filter)
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File:laser_cutter_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Laser Engraver Icon
|Has iconwname=File:laser_cutter_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:laser_cutter_image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The Trotec Speedy 300 Laser Engraver
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1223
|Has ace=Jack Sides;jsides22@georgefox.edu
}}

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Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

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Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Trotec Speedy 300 laser engraver is used to engrave and cut materials based on specified images and shapes. This is useful for making enclosures out of acrylic, engraving designs into many materials, creating trophies, and cutting any two dimensional shape out of a variety of materials. It also has a rotary attachment which enables cylindrical objects such as drinking glasses and hydro flasks to be engraved with detailed designs.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qF8dHQPy6o}}[[File:Hydrowiki.jpg|thumb|400x400px|none|Example of an engraved Hydroflask. ]]

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

*Inkscape - The program you will be using to design is Inkscape. It allows you to type in words, edit logos, make your own logos and such to engrave or cut out of your material.
*Job Control - The program that interacts with the laser cutter to perform a cut. Job Control lets you set up/create Material Profiles, change between the HoneyComb Table and the Rotary tool (mostly used for Hydroflasks), and choose a location to cut on your material.

*Focusing tool - Used to focus the laser cutter.

*Stroke - This is the type of line that should be used when cutting.

*Repeat Cut Line - Can be used in JobControl to reproduce the same cut line that was just cut.
*Outline Job - Can be used in JobControl to trace the job that is going to be cut to show where job extends.
*Bitmap - Representation of an image as bits of information (pixels); used to allow logos/stencils to be changed into colors.
*Vector - Representation of an image as shapes, rather than bits; used to allow logos/stencils to be modified as objects.
*Trace Bitmap - Can be used on a bitmap to to turn it into a vector.
*Honeycomb Table - This is the honeycomb shaped metal tray that holds flat material during a cut. It is used for most cut jobs.
*Rotary Tool - When engraving water bottles or glasses, this accessory is used to hold the object in place as well as rotate it while performing a cut.

====Material Settings====

* '''[[Media:LICENSE KEY S3-4397.pdf|License Key Information]]'''
* '''[[Media:TrotecMaterials 2022.09.08 10.40.55.xml|Speedy 300 Material Settings 8 SEP 2022]]

====User Manual====

* '''[[Media:JobControl-Manual-EN.pdf|Job Control Operation Manual]]'''
* '''[[Media:8011-speedy300-manual-en.pdf|Speedy 300 Operation Manual]]'''

==Training==
====Operation====

Performing a cut or engrave with the laser will always begin with Inkscape by opening/importing an image, pdf, DXF, or similar file. If you do not have a file yet then it can also be used to create geometries. When you use SolidWorks to generate a .dxf file the correct face must be selected prior to saving the file. Once a file has been brought into Inkscape, it must be adjusted so that job control can distinguish between what should be cut out of the material and what should be engraved. A cut is indicated by a hairline red stroke (in the RGB color scheme) and an engrave is indicated by the color black. After the graphic is prepared, it is transferred to job control using [File] > [Print] and making sure trotec is selected as the device. It will then pop up in the job list on the right hand side of JobControl. At this point the laser cutter should be set up by turning it on, placing the material on the honeycomb table, and then raising the table to focus the laser. The final steps are then to click the USB icon in job control to connect to the laser cutter, drag the job onto the to scale honeycomb table, set the correct material properties, and then click the play button to perform the cut/engrave. When performing an engrave on a cylindrical object, the set up process in Inkscape is the same but there are a few differences in job control and laser cutter itself. Primarily, the honeycomb table must be exchanged for the rotary tool, which must be done while the laser cutter is OFF. The laser cutter should automatically recognize that the rotary is attached. The only change in job control is that the accessory should be changed in the settings from the honeycomb table to the rotary tool.
 
 
A Training Venture (TV) that uses the Laser Cutter is the [[Windchimes]]

====Demonstration====

First, import a George Fox logo into Inkscape and set it up so that the logo is an engrave with a cut circle surrounding it. Once this is done, print the job to job control and run the job on a piece of scrap material.

====General Procedure====
[[File:trotec_laser_engraving.mp4|thumb|none|400px|This video shows the complete process of completing an engrave. See below for details on doing this. ]]

#'''Setting up a Job'''
##First off, open a new document in Inkscape on your own machine or one of the lab computers (File > New, or Ctrl + N). Next, you’ll want to set the dimensions of your page by going to [File] > [Document Properties] (Ctrl + Shift + D). Your page can be as big as you like, as long as it’s larger than the shape you’re working with. However, always '''make sure that the document is square.''' There’s some weird quirk with the software that makes this necessary, keeping the document square will keep you from running into a lot of problems later on. Under the “Custom Size” section in document properties, set your hight and width to something larger than the longest dimension of your object. When you export the shape to the laser cutter, Inkscape will export anything within the document canvas and ignore anything that extends beyond it’s borders.
##Now you’re ready to create a shape to be cut or engraved. a.) If you’re importing a shape from SolidWorks, the file should be saved as a .DXF file. Simply drag the file onto your Inkscape document or import it via [File] > [Import] (Ctrl + I). If prompted to select scaling options, choose “read from file” and click OK. Next, select the object and go to [Object] > [Ungroup] (Ctrl + Shift + G). This will allow you to select the text objects that make up the SolidWorks watermark and delete them. While you’re here, make sure that there is only one copy of each line, as SolidWorks often likes to make duplicates. Finally, you may want to select all of the remaining objects and regroup them with [Object] > [Group] (Ctrl + G). Skip to step 5. b.) If you want to cut or engrave from an image, the best way to do so is from a vector image file. Vector graphics files store the lines, shapes, and colors that make up an image rather than storing data based on pixels as in a typical raster image. These lines, shapes, and colors is what the laser cutter interprets when cutting and engraving. If you’ve designed something in Adobe Illustrator, Inkscape, or other vector-based drawing applications, you can save your image directly to this format. If you’re looking for images online, search for vector images. These will most commonly be in the format of .SVG, .EPS, and some types of .PDF. You can import these types of images into your Inkscape document by simply dragging them onto the canvas or importing them via [File] > [Import] (Ctrl + I). Skip to step 5. c.) If you want to engrave or cut a raster (pixel-based) image, you will need to convert it to a vector shape. Drag your image onto the Inkscape canvas and proceed to step 3. [[File:...gfuLogo.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Inkscape can convert an image into vectors based on the composition of the source image. To do this, select your image, right click, and select Trace Bitmap, (Alt + Shift + B). You will be given several options shown below. Check the “Live Preview” box which will give you a better idea what’s going to happen. For the George Fox logo, we want to separate the colors from each other, so we’ll select “Colors” under the “Multiple Scans” section. The number of scans you specify correlates to the number of objects that Inkscape will create based on the different parts of the image. Since our example is a simple logo with 3 colors, 3 scans will be sufficient. Depending on your image, you’ll have to play around with these settings a bit. For a back and white image, you’ll probably want to use “Brightness Cuttoff” under “Single Scan” and adjust the “Threshold” value until the preview looks correct. Once you click OK, the vector will appear directly on top of the original image, so make sure to drag it off and move or delete the original image. [[File:...traceBitmap.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##You will now have a vector object that consists of several parts. Separate them by right-clicking the vector and selecting “Ungroup” (Ctrl + Shift + G). Now you’ll be able to alter each part of the object. In our example, we’ll go with the one on the right and delete the one on the left. [[File:...separateParts.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Now we can manipulate the colors. Select the object and go to [Object] > [Fill and Stroke] (usually it will already be open on the right sidebar). You will see Fill, Stroke Paint, and Stroke Style on the top right. Fill changes the color of a piece, Stroke Paint changes the color of a stroke, and Stroke Style changes the thickness and style of a stroke. You will see values for R, G, and B, which control color. When each color has a 0 next to it, it will be fully black. When the red has a 255 next to it and the others have 0, it will be fully red. The machine will cut material ONLY when it sees a stroke that is 255, 0, 0, and it will engrave material ONLY when it sees 0, 0, 0. Set these values on your object depending on what you want to engrave or cut, and make sure these values are exact before continuing. Anything that you do not want to cut or engrave, either delete or set to white, which is 255, 255, 255. Be sure to make each a “Flat Color” so that the color is constant throughout the entire object.
##Now that you have an object with the correct fill and stroke, you’ll want to resize it to the size you want. Select your object, and in the top bar of Inkscape you’ll see options for height and width. If you want to scale the object without altering it’s height and width ratios, lock the two together by clicking the lock icon. Measure your material and set the height and width accordingly, or set the values to your desired size. If you imported your file from SolidWorks you shouldn’t need to change these dimensions, just verify that they match the size of your object in SolidWorks. [[File:...Stroke.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Once you have finished your design, it’s time to send it to the Laser Cutter! Go to [File] > [Print] (Ctrl + P) and make sure it is sending to Trotec Engraver but do not click [OK] yet.
##Select [Preferences] to open the engraver properties. Check both “Take From Application” and “Minimize to Jobsize.” These settings tell the program to assume the canvas is the same size as it is in Inkscape and then crop to the size of your print. Also verify “Image Mode” is set to “Color” and “Enhanced Geometries” is not selected. '''NOTE''': “Take From Application” will only work if your Inkscape canvas is square. Make sure to set this correctly, or else set the print size to something larger than either dimension of your print (so long as “Minimize to Jobsize” is enabled.)[[File:...printing.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Save these settings by selecting the button that shows the JC logo near the bottom of the Printing Preferences and select Print to send the design to Job Control.
#'''Setting up the Laser Cutter'''
##Turn on the machine using the power switch located on the back of the machine in the left corner. The machine will go through a startup procedure where the cutting bed lowers and the laser travels to its home position. Note that the lid must be closed for the startup procedure to begin. You will hear be some beeping coming from the machine.
##Place your material onto the honeycomb table. '''ALWAYS''' place it in a corner, snug against two sides of the bed. This way if something doesn't go quite perfectly in the cutting process you can return the material back to that corner and try again without having to scrap the entire piece.
##Now it’s time to focus the laser onto your material. Begin by moving the laser head over the middle of your material. Place the focusing tool on the laser head and slowly raise the table until the the focusing tool just barely touches the material. Be sure to raise the bed extra slowly when approaching the focusing tool, so that you can stop the moment you are at the correct height. Use cation, as there is also no safety in place to prevent the material from crashing into the head and damaging this delicate, expensive assembly. The focusing tool will likely fall off the head; this is fine so long as you didn’t overshoot the point at which it first touched. Reference the images below for proper focusing tool placement and laser head controls.[[File:Laser Focus Tool.png|none|thumb|404x404px| Proper placement of the focusing tool. ]][[File:Laser Controls.png|none|thumb|296x296px| Laser control pad. (1) Raise and lower the bed. (2) Move the laser head (5) Air assist. Make sure it is always on to vent fumes properly. ]]
##Remove the focusing tool and return it to its home.
##Press the USB icon found in the bottom right corner of Job Control to connect to the laser cutter. The laser should beep a few times and then a the background of job control will change to a honeycomb pattern to represent the actual honeycomb table. Also, the USB icon will change to a play icon.
# Cutting with Tortec Ruby
There are four tasks you will need to complete in order to cut/engrave using Trotec Ruby
## First, you need to get the image from inkscape into Trotec Ruby. This can be done by simply downloading the file and dropping it into Trotec Ruby.
## Second, you will click onto the design tab. All you need to do is verify that everything is the correct color that you need and everything looks fine. Once completed. Click on the blue "Create Job" button. This will allow you to move on.
[[File:Ex1.png|thumb|600x600px|none]]
## Third, you will need to prepare your cut/engrave. To do this you will need to align the laser with where you want to cut by dragging the grey square box. Then you need to select the material that you will be using to cut/engrave. DO NOT CHANGE ANY SETTINGS WITHOUT APPROVAL FROM SUPERVISOR.
[[File:Ex3.png|thumb|600x600px|none]]
## Finally, to produce the image press the "Push to Laser" button, this will open the next tab
[[File:Ex4.png|thumb|600x600px|none]]
## To start the cut/engrave just press the play button. Remember to RESET THE SPACE once your cut/engrave is don't and not to leave any material in the laser cutter.
#'''Cutting with the Rotary Tool'''
##The Rotary Tool lets you cut and engrave cylindrical objects, the most popular of these being Hydroflasks. This part applies after you have already sent the file from Inkscape to the Laser Cutter.
##Turn OFF the machine, remove the honeycomb table, and plug in the rotary tool. The rest of the laser cutter setup is the same as above.
##Continue As though you were cutting/engraving anything else until you hit the design tab. Hit the rotary button. It looks like a cylinder.
##Enter the diameter of your bottle (using the Calipers in the lab), as it tells the Rotary Tool how fast to turn as it engraves. Do not mess this up, or you will have a stretched/squeezed image. [[File:Rotary 1.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##Once you click OK/apply, the window background will look like the image below.
##Double click/drag the job onto the window. It should automatically flip the image so that it will engrave in the proper orientation even though the bottle is held horizontally. [[File:Rotary2.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##If you click view it will show you an animation of what the bottle will look like to give you an idea of how to position your image.
##Next, pick the material Hydroflask → Black Mug for a Hydroflask, or one of the glass profiles if engraving glass, and now you are ready to engrave your thing!
##When you are finished, RESET THE SPACE! Put the Rotary Tool away and replace it with the HoneyComb Table.

==Safety==

*Always make sure the material you are using is safe to use. There is an especially high risk when engraving plastics. Fumes from plastics can be toxic. Make sure you find the specific material you are using and check to see if it produces toxic fumes when burned. Never attempt to engrave PVC as it produces chlorine gas (the stuff they used in WWI).
*Once the laser is focused do not touch the button that raises the bed or the laser will crash into the machine which causes damage to the machine.
*Be careful when moving the laser head when using the rotary tool because it has protruding parts that will harm the laser cutter if a crash occurs.
*Keep an eye on active cuts because fires can be started when cutting wood or acrylic with paper covering.
*If you feel unsure about anything located in the laser cutting procedure make sure to consult the supervisor for assistance.

==Cut List==
===Approved Materials===
* Acrylic
* Wood
* Vegetable tanned leather

===DO NOT CUT===
* Any plastics containing PVC (polyvinyl chloride)
* Chrome tanned leather
* Hardboard (Masonite)

If you want to cut a material not listed here, please talk with the Maker Hub staff.

==Certification==
Complete the Prototype Lab - Laser Cutters (Speedy 300/400) Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}} (this module satisfies requirements for both the Speedy 300 and the Speedy 400). The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
'''First of all, check your export settings'''

*There are multiple combinations of settings that will work for export; which means that depending on who was using the machine last, settings may be different. These are the settings I (the ace) have found to work most consistently: Set your Inkscape document to square by going to [File] > [Document Properties] ( Ctl+Shift+D) and set both the Height and Width fields to the same value, bigger than your shape. Why this is an issue is yet unknown, Inkscape just doesn’t like exporting non-square documents with the other settings to follow. Print the document with File > Print or Ctl+P. Click preferences and check both “Take From Application” and “Minimize to Jobsize.” These settings tell the program to assume the canvas is the same size as Inkscape and then crop to the size of your print. Also verify “image mode” is set to “color.” These settings will fix most common issues.

'''Cuts are not being made'''

*Some export settings may be incorrect. Verify that your settings are set to those described above. These settings will fix most issues of lines not cutting.
*Verify that all stokes are set to red with a stroke width between 1pt and .25pt (.25pt recommended)
*Verify that your print is entirely within the canvas of Inkscape.
*In Preferences, within Print options, verify “image mode” is set to “color.” Otherwise, your red stokes will not be read as color, and not be seen by the laser cutter.

'''The cuts did not go all the way through the material'''

*Are you using the correct material profile? If not, reset the job (described below) and repeat the cut with the correct material profile. If it appears that the cut went partway through the material you may want to use a setting that is less powerful than your material would normally use (again, described below)
*You should always place your material in a corner. This way, if the cuts do not go all the way through you can reposition it easily. DO NOT MOVE THE JOB in JobControl! If you put the material in a corner, should be able to place the material back where it was, and then reset the job in JobControl by right clicking on the job in JobControl and selecting the reset job option, or by pressing Ctl+R. Next, run the cut again on the smallest thickness setting for your material. For example, if you are cutting 1/4 inch acrylic and it does not cut all the way through, repeat the cut with the 1/8 inch acrylic setting.
*If you are using the correct material profile for your material and cuts are not going all the way through, please email me and let me know so that I can take a look and fix the settings. ZCogswell18@georgefox.edu

'''The laser went really fast leaving a sort of light engrave rather than a cut'''

*You did not select the correct material, and the job ran with the ‘standard’ setting. '''DO NOT MOVE THE MATERIAL!''' You can reset the job by right clicking on the job in Job Control and selecting the reset job option, or by pressing Ctl+R. Then, select the correct material in the upper left dropdown menu and run the job again. This way you do not need to reposition the material or job, which you will almost never do perfectly.

'''The laser repeated the cut multiple times'''

*Some material profiles, such as half-inch, acrylic are set to repeat the cut line multiple times, as to get a cleaner product. If the cuts look good, this is normal.
*Are you importing from SolidWorks? For some reason, SolidWorks likes to have duplicate lines quite often. In Inkscape, click on the cut that was repeated and drag to move it. If you move the line and another line is underneath, you need to delete all duplicates in the file. Often if you have a thin stoke (.25pt) and zoom out, the duplicate lines will be visually darker, allowing you to identify and delete them.

'''The acrylic is melted or blackened'''

*Verify that you are using the correct material profile. If you are, for example, cutting 1/4 acrylic with the 1/2 setting, the acrylic will be melted and not give clean cuts.
*Are you importing from SolidWorks? As mentioned above, “''For some reason, SolidWorks likes to have duplicate lines quite often. In Inkscape, click on the cut that was repeated and drag to move it. If you move the line and another line is underneath, you need to delete all duplicates in the file. Often if you have a thin stoke (.25pt) and zoom out, the duplicate lines will be visually darker, allowing you to identify and delete them.”''

'''Cuts are not clean'''

*Is the machine focused properly for your material? If you’re not sure, or even if you are (you may have bumped the bed control buttons accidentally) refocus it.
*Check the lens for dust because this can interfere with the laser. If it is dirty, see the maintenance section on how to clean it.

'''The material is being cut in unintended places'''

*Check your Inkscape file and make sure there are no red stokes in places you did not want
*Make sure there are no other jobs on the work area (grey rectangles in the honeycomb area of JobControl). If there are, drag them back into the list on the right side or delete them

'''Inkscape is not printing to JobControl'''

* If the status on the print window (in the "Select Printer" section, just below the printer options) says "Error" instead of "Ready," try the following:
** Start → Settings → Devices → Printers & scanners → Trotec Engraver v10.5.0 → Open queue → Printer → Cancel All Documents
*** Deleting all of the items from the queue will also work
* If the above does not work, contact the lab supervisors or Justin.

*

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

To keep the laser cutter running and cutting smoothly, the mirror and lens should be periodically cleaned. This is on top of the general cleaning that should be done to keep the machine dust and scrap free. There are also filters in the exhaust system that must be changed once the activated carbon has been used up.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Done
|-
|1
|General cleaning
|As needed after a cut
|Student
|N/A
|-
|2
|Clean the Mirror
|As needed
|Volunteer
|
|-
|3
|Clean the Lens
|As needed
|Volunteer
|
|-
|4
|Change Filters
|When filter usage reaches 100%
|Ace
|
|}

#The honeycomb should be removed and the metal bed itself should be should be swept/cleaned more or less daily. Cleaners are available to help in this process. Green is general cleaning use this for the bed and metal surfaces. Blue is glass cleaner, use this for the plexiglass surfaces. The front door of the Speedy 300 may be removed using the spring loaded pin on the right to remove cut pieces stuck in the door. The air vents at the rear of the machine should be kept clean of debris. Clean in a manner similar to the bed.
#The lense, mirror, and cone should be inspected daily or more often as needed, especially after wood or other “dusty”/”smokey” materials are cut. The lense will need cleaning when particles are visible on the surface (hold up to light if need be). The lense may be removed using the threaded nut below the lense (see photo). The lense should be cleaned with the lense paper and cleaner available in the kit (lasercutter drawer) on both sides. Put some cleaner on the lense and gently rub the paper over the surface of the lense. The cone itself threads into the assembly below the lense nut. The cone may be cleaned with a paper towel and water or another cleaning agent. The mirror should be inspected and cleaned in the same manner as the lense.
#See above.
#The air filter to the right of the Speedy 300 will occasionally need maintenance. The most common issue is a full pre-filter (P/N 37722). This will be indicated on the filter itself by poor airflow/suction. When replacing this, use a face mask and gloves (close the lab when doing this). Open the top of the air filter with the large 10mm hex wrench in the kit. Remove the prefilter and place it in a bag for disposal. Insert a new prefilter and close the lid. Pre-filters are used to increase the lifespan of other, harder to replace and more expensive filters in the system. Less often, other filters will need replacing. These include the larger box filter (P/N 41041), additional pre-filter-type mat filters, and activated carbon. This should not need to happen as often. Follow the above procedure for pre-filter and the [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJkCgAVbAEU&feature=youtu.be video] to replace the full filter setup. Be careful not to spill activate carbon if doing a full replacement, it is difficult to clean up.

2025-07-01T18:34:33Z

Arodgers24:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is sheet metal equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Machine Shop
|Is used in domain=Metal
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Langmuir
|Has model=Titan T25
|Has serial number= 10588
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has function=Bending Brake
|Has url=
|Has icon=
|Has icondesc=
|Has certification=
|Has image=File:CNC.png
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu
}}

[[File:CNC.png|right|300px]]
Make: Langmuir

Model: Titan T25

Serial Number: 10588

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Safety First==
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]
Here are some safety instructions for the {{PAGENAME}}. Remember... SAFETY FIRST!!!
* Always make sure your hands are out of the way of the fingers and all moving parts
* Be aware of your surroundings to ensure that you do not bump others with the counterweight.
* If bending a small piece of metal, place it in the center of the brake.
* Do not attempt to bend material thicker than 16 gauge.
* Only use sheet metal with the brake. Don't try to bend round material!
* You may not use the sheet metal machines without safety glasses!! (Should be obvious if you are following the rules of the shop)

==Description==

A Press brake is a metalworking machine that allows the bending of sheet metal. The brake is a Titan T25 CNC Press Break. The max material thickness capacity of this machine is 16 gauge mild steel. Because it is a CNC machine. It is able to do a wide variety of bend angles.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.
* [http://www.americanmachinetools.com/how_to_use_a_hand_brake.htm How to Use a Hand Brake]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=prZtjSlyLFo Box and Pan Brake Video]

==Training==
====Operation====

To opperate the CNC Press Break Under the 'Create Bend' tab, select 'new bend'.
Then select the proper Punch (Standard 35 *) and Die (4-way w/risers).
Then select the material that you will be bending and the proper angle that you want.
Then add material thickness and bend width

Under the 'run' Tab select new and create a name for the job.
Select the add bend button on the bottom right of the screen, make sure all settings are correct.
Press the green run button on the bottom left

Press BOTH green buttons on the machine to move the punch down to the safety clearance area.
Enter your material into the machine
press the foot pedal twice to bend the material. (do multiple times if multiple bends on the same job)

====Demonstration====

To demonstrate competency on the Bending brake you will be required to bend a piece of sheet metal to a 90 degree angle.

====General Procedure====

=== Bending Steps ===

==Reset the Space==
[[File:Reset The Space HD2.png|left|150px]]
Here is how you can reset the space for the {{PAGENAME}}. Remember to leave the space better than you found it!!!
* If you removed or adjusted any fingers, put them back where they belong.
* Reset all materials, scrap pieces go in the scrap bin.
* Ensure that the Brake and surrounding area are clean.
* Return any borrowed gloves or other equipment to their proper storage locations.

==Certification==
Complete the Machine Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/GH36RT Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The machine needs to be cleaned and pivot points should be lubricated.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Oil Surfaces
|As Needed
|Technician
|}

2025-05-21T18:49:00Z

Arodgers24:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=The Hub
|Is used in domain=Vinyl
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Roland
|Has model=BN-20
|Has serial number=ADP2248
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File: Vinyl_cutter_printerIcon.png
|Has icondesc=Vinyl Printer
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:roland-bn-20.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The Roland BN-20 Vinyl Printer
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1258
|Has ace=Summer Martindale;martindales@georgefox.edu
|Has ace=Levi Interian-Uc;linterianuc23@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Safety First==
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]
Here are some safety instructions for the {{PAGENAME}}. Remember... SAFETY FIRST!!!
* Never turn off the main power supply. The printer must routinely empty the print head to prevent it from clogging and it cannot do so without power.
* The printer will automatically pause if the front door is opened and the back is open. Keep hands and clothing away from the back of the printer to prevent pinching and tangling.
* Sometimes vinyl scraps can be oddly shaped and can get wrinkled up when traveling through the media guides. Make sure the piece slides through easily before printing so this does not cause issues.
* It is recommended that the machine get used about once a week to prevent issues such as nozzle clogging.

==Description==

Vinyl Printing is the process of applying ink to vinyl sheets to produce graphics using a conventional inkjet printing method with solvent based inks. This is useful for making images into stickers, creating t-shirt graphics, and any task where the appearance of vinyl needs to be changed. Printers similar to this are standard in small scale custom clothing companies due to how easy it is to take a graphic from Adobe Illustrator to a piece of vinyl. The BN-20 packs everything into one, powerful, profit-producing package. With award-winning eco-solvent inks including metallic and white options, a range of material compatibility and integrated contour cutting, it is easily the most versatile print device in its class. The BN-20 is perfect for creating t-shirt graphics, poster prints, stickers and decals – all from the comfort of your desktop.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6J1yLQyGNE}}
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1jgmG87EJc8}}
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZ75bp0_fP8}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* Graphic - The image, logo, lettering or similar design that is being printed.
* Adobe Illustrator - The software used to set up graphics to be printed.
* Weeding - Removing the excess vinyl material with the tools found in the drawer below the computer.
* Versawoks - The software that interacts with the printer to perform a print.
* Vector images - An image constructed with mathematical formulas which makes it easy to resize and perform other edits.
* Raster images - An image constructed with pixels which means they cannot be resized without a change in resolution.
* See below for specific machine terminology.
* [[File:Vinyl Printer Terms.png|none|thumb|866x866px]]
 
[[Media:BN-20 USE EN R2.pdf|Vinyl Printer+Cutter User Manual]] 
This user manual does a good job of visually showing the details of operating the printer.

==Training==
====Operation====

Almost any file type can be used as a graphic when using the vinyl printer but they all must be brought into Illustrator or Inkscape to add a cut line. Note that a vector file such as a .pdf will work the best. The cut line tells the printer to cut out the image that is being printed so it can be weeded properly before it is applied. The cut lines will appear as red dotted lines. There are many ways to create a cut line and it is up to the user to determine which process will be the easiest for their graphic. Once a cut line has been created, the file is saved as an .eps and then opened in Versaworks to finalize any print settings before performing the print. After the print is completed it should be left to dry for 20 minutes before being applied to another object.

====Demonstration====
Print out and weed a graphic of your choice. If you are indecisive use a George Fox logo from the [https://www.georgefox.edu/offices/communications/creative_srv/logos/index.html website].

====General Procedure====

Loading Material:
# The vinyl printer is capable of printing on any type or size of vinyl but matte vinyls will provide the best results. Sticker vinyls can be found on the vinyl cutter or in the cabinet under the computer while heat transfer vinyls can be found in the vinyl printer or in the cabinet to the right of the printer. Scrap pieces can be found in the bin next to the computer and are loaded into the printer just like a roll is.
# Press the secondary power button to turn on the printer.
# The loading process always begins by pushing the loading lever backwards. This opens the media clamps so the vinyl can be slid through the printer.
# The media guides are critical to keeping the vinyl in place while printing and must be adjusted to fit the width of the vinyl. Do so by sliding the left media guide to the edge of the vinyl piece. When doing this make sure the pinch roller is above a grit roller or the printer will NOT work. You may have to play with the piece orientation or width to make this possible.
# Feed the vinyl through the printer from the back of machine so that it passes under the media clamps. The purpose of the media clamps is to keep the edges of the vinyl from interfering with the print head so this is an important piece to remember. Feel free to reference the image below. [[File:Vinyl Clamps.png|none|thumb|463x463px]]
# Finish the loading process by pulling the loading lever forward and making sure the door is closed. If everything is done correctly the printer will move around the material a bit and then sit quietly. If there is beeping then something is not set up correctly. If the door is not closed the print will not happen.

Preparing Graphics:

First, it is important to understand the differences between a vector and a raster when setting up graphics to be printed. Raster images use many colored pixels or individual building blocks to form a complete image. JPEGs, GIFs and PNGs are common raster image types. Almost all of the photos found on the web and in print catalogs are raster images. Because raster images are constructed using a fixed number of colored pixels, they can’t be dramatically resized without compromising their resolution. When stretched to fit a space they weren’t designed to fill, their pixels become visibly grainy and the image distorts. This is why altered photos may appear pixilated or low resolution. Further, because a raster image is composed of many tiny pieces it is difficult to distinguish one object from another within the image. Vector images, alternatively, allow for more flexibility. Constructed using mathematical formulas rather than individual colored blocks, vector file types such as SVG, EPS, AI and PDF* ['''why the "*" on PDF.?'''] are excellent for creating graphics that frequently require resizing. Also, each object within a vector file is assigned to a distinct layer within Adobe Illustrator or Inkscape which means an object can be moved, resized, and recolored without affecting the rest of the image. Having a graphic in vector format can be helpful because it is easy to remove the vinyl background from the graphic by adding a cut line around the object.

For Adobe Illustrator:
# Open the graphic in Illustrator 2017 and perform any desired editing. Most of the time nothing will need to be changed with the exception of converting a raster to a vector in order to add a cut line around a specific part of the graphic. To do this:
#*If your file is saved as an .eps you can just skip all these steps and just drag and drop. If not you will need to do the following to convert to a vector file.
#*To import a normal picture into Adobe Illustrator, do [File] > [Place] and then click and drag to the desired size.The graphic can then be converted to vectors by clicking [Object] >[Flatten Transparency].
#*Next, click on the image to bring up several options at the top of the screen and select the [Trace] function. When doing this make sure to select the [Expand] option. This will break the image up into components which can be edited individually.
#*If you want to remove a part of a graphic, you would select the section you want to remove in the layers tab and then hit the trash can icon.
#*Note that this process works well for simple images with few colors. If the image is super complicated it will lose a lot of detail and still be difficult to work with because of the many layers that are created.
# In essence, a cut line is a 0.25 pt line (called a stroke in Illustrator) that is correctly colored and labeled so Versaworks can read it properly. The stroke can be added around specific layers (great for logos), or around the entire graphic (better for images). The advantage of adding a stroke around each layer is that it is possible to completely weed out vinyl between two parts of an image instead of leaving a piece of uncolored vinyl. For details on adding the cut line follow the steps below.
#* Select the entire graphic and add a 0.25 stroke to the graphic. The [Stroke] option can be found in the toolbar at the top of the screen.
#* Click on the color options to the left of the [Stroke] option and then click on [New Swatch] on the bottom edge of the box. A window will open up.
#* Name the new swatch [CutContour]. Make sure to use the exact capitalization or it will not work properly.
#* Change the color type from [Process Color] to [Spot Color]
#* Make sure that the color system is set to RGB
#* Drag the red bar all the way up to 255 and make sure the other sliders are at 0.
#* Hit okay. At this point there should be a bright red line surrounding the graphic and it is ready to be printed.
#Now that the graphic is ready, save it as an Adobe EPS file (.EPS) so it will be able to be printed in Versaworks.
For Inkscape:
# Open or import your graphic and perform any desired edits. To create the cut line you will need to have a vector object so that a stroke can be added. If your graphic is already a vector format great, but if it is not there are two options.
#* First you can draw a shape around the graphic and use that as the cut line. This option works well for high quality images because there is no compromise in image detail. The downside is that it is difficult to cut out precise shapes from the graphic because it is difficult to get shapes to match up correctly.
#* The second option is to convert the graphic to a vector format using a bitmap. Do this by clicking [Path] > [Trace Bitmap] and then pressing [Okay]. There are several different options in the bitmap menu that you can experiment with to find the best results. Generally, the color option works the best. Finish the process by right clicking and selecting the [ungroup] option so that each piece of the graphic can be edited.
# Create the cut line. Do this by selecting the shape that you would like to cut out, right clicking, and then selecting [Fill and Stroke]. Then add a stroke of any width (0.25 pt works well) and any color. Ideally this would be a spot color and named CutContour just like Illustrator but Inkscape does not have the same options. The downside of using a normal stroke is that the cut settings in Versaworks must be adjusted to treat the stroke as a cut line. This can be an issue if you have several adjacent shapes creating a graphic but you only want to cut around the outside of the objects. To prevent this, select the group of objects you want to cut around, make sure there are no strokes around them, and copy/paste a new copy of them next to the old ones. Select the copy and then go to [Path] > [Union]. This will combine the group of objects into one shape with a continuous outline that will be cut out, but notice that the new singular object will be one color. Add a stroke to the new object and make sure to turn off the fill, then use the page coordinates to place the new object in the same place as the original group. You should be able to see the stroke surrounding your original object; this will be your cut line.
# Save the file as a .EPS to be imported into Versaworks
# In Versaworks, click on the setting symbol next to job queue A or B.
# Click the scissor icon on the left side of the settings window and check the [Cut all paths] option. This will treat the stroke as a cut line as it is qualified as a path.
Printing and Cutting:
# Make sure the material is loaded properly.
# Open up Roland Versaworks. This can be found on the desktop and is where the printing is done from.
# Open the .eps file of the desired graphic. There are two different job queues that it can be put into but it doesn't matter which one is used if you are only printing one job. Note: The graphic will appear to be a low quality image in the preview window but this is just how the software operates.
# Double click on the graphic to open a high definition preview of the image to check that everything is working properly. Sometimes the colors may not carry over properly so make sure they look good. If something looks off then there are some color settings that can be changed when saving the EPS file. Mainly, make sure that the cut line is indicated by a moving, dashed, red line surrounding image.
# Go throughout the different tabs on the far left and change anything that needs to be changed. This can be many things such as ink values, cutting or borders.
# You might want to change the orientation or other parameters before starting the print; to do this go to [Job] > [Job Settings].
# Before you print, remember that the origin is rotated 180 degrees. So you will need to have your image on the TOP RIGHT if you want to print of the bottom left.
# Finally, right click on the desired file name in the job queue and hit print.
# After the cut is finished turn off the machine with the secondary power button but make sure to leave the main power switch on to prevent damage and wait 20 minutes before interacting with the graphic.

==Additional Functions==
While editing the image you will see 11 different tabs you can go under. Each of these has different ways to edit the image. Starting out, we are on the 'layout' tab. The next tab that we want to mess with is the 'color adjustment'. If your prints have colors that you don't want or a tint of a certain color, you can adjust the color to properly print your image.
[[File:Color.png|none|thumb|866x866px]]
The 'cut controls' tab can control the amount of passes, speed and force that the printer will perform. You most likely won't have to change anything unless you are using a different material to cut.
[[File:Cut.png|none|thumb|866x866px]]
The 'clip and tile' tab allows you to cut the image into different 'tiles' and have you image be split into multiple prints.
[[File:Clip.png|none|thumb|866x866px]]
These three tabs are the ones that you might need to use, if any.

Preparing for Transfers:

Depending on the type of vinyl and the application it is being used for you will have different procedures for transferring the vinyl. When working with the heat transfer vinyl, used for making shirts and such, there are two main ways to do this. First, you can print the mirror of the graphic so that no transfer paper is needed. Second, you can print it normally and then use clear transfer paper to hold everything in place during application. This second option is also used for the standard sticker vinyl and can be done by performing the following steps:
# Use the weeding kit to remove all unwanted sections of the graphic.
#* Tweezers are used to pinch and pull up unwanted sections.
#* The rounded dental tools are used to hold down wanted sections to prevent them being peeled off with unwanted sections.
# If necessary, cut the graphic off from any excess material.
# Use scissors to cut out a piece of clear transfer paper slightly larger than your cut-out graphic.
# Position it sticky side down over your graphic and use a squeegee to apply it the the graphic.
#* This is done starting in the center of the graphic, and smoothed with the squeegee from the center out.
# Once it is applied, flip the layers over and peel the backing of the vinyl material from the transfer paper.
#* Peel at the greatest angle possible, aim for parallel to the transfer paper so that none of the vinyl is pulled off.
# The graphic is then ready to be transferred onto the desired material.

==Certification==
Complete The Hub - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/GH36RT Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
*If for whatever reason the machine is being difficult, you can look in the upper left corner and the machine will most likely tell you what's wrong. Where it typically says 'Printer Ready' it might say what the issue with the printer is.
* [[File:Vinyl1.png|none|thumb|866x866px]]
* The most common issue is the printer beeping when trying to load a piece of material. To fix this, make sure the pinch roller is positioned above a grit roller by finding a new piece of vinyl or rotating/cutting down the current piece.
* If there are globs, spots, or streaks of ink occurring during the printing process then it is time to manually clean the print head (see maintenance).
* There may be issues with the vinyl being difficult to weed due to pieces sticking together. The heat transfer vinyl is more difficult to weed in general so some of this may be expected but one thing that will help is to increase the cutting force before printing. By default it is set to 50 gf but feel free to increase it if weeding is excessively difficult.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Like any printer, this machine will periodically need to have its ink replaced. Additionally there are other tasks that should be completed to keep the printer fully functional.These include; keeping equipment free of dirt and grime, both manually and automatically maintaining the print head, and replacing cutting blades and print head wipers.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fO44grz5KnI}}

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Done
|-
|1
|Clean Print Area
|As needed
|Student
|N/A
|-
|2
|Change Ink
|When the low ink warning appears on the computer
|Ace
|
|-
|3
|Replace the Waste Cartridge
|Once the full cartridge warning appears on the computer
|Ace
|
|-
|4
|Medium Print Head Cleaning
|Once there is nozzle clogging, ink spots, or dragged dirt
|Ace
|
|-
|5
|Manual Print Head Cleaning
|If the medium cleaning does not solve the issues
|Ace
|
|-
|6
|Replace Felt Wiper
|When the replace wiper warning appears
|Ace
|
|-
|7
|Replace Blade
|When cut quality has decreased
|Ace
|
|}
# Wipe any dust off the machine with a paper towel and the areas shown below. [[File:Printer cleaning.png|none|thumb|594x594px]]
# See user manual for procedure specifics.
# See user manual for procedure specifics.
# Should be completed if prints show signs similar to the image below; see user manual for procedure specifics.[[File:Vinyl printer errors.png|none|thumb|657x657px]]
# See user manual for procedure specifics.
# See user manual for procedure specifics.
# See user manual for procedure specifics.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omcP7oPbHLE}}

File:Clip.png

2025-05-21T18:45:41Z

Arodgers24:

File:Cut.png

2025-05-21T18:45:23Z

Arodgers24:

2025-05-20T23:08:30Z

Arodgers24:

Prusa XL

2025-05-20T23:08:15Z

Arodgers24:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Prusa
|Has model= XL
|Has serial numbers=SN25028124319
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File:Prusa_Icon(1)
|Has icondesc=Prusa XL Icon
|Has iconwname=File:
|Has image=File:Prusa__XL.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Prusa XL
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has group=3D Printers
|Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu
}}

[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|170px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

== Description ==
The Prusa Xl is a large 3D printer that includes removeable heatbed, filament sensor and multiple print heads. These features can be used to create great prototypes. Multiple heads allow for multiple types of material to be used on one print. The Prusa XL uses [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing Anchor|FDM Printing]]. The Prusa XL is a prototyping device that works well for larger prototypes that could possibly be made from multiple materials. The Prusa XL has a hard time with complicated shapes, but it is great at simple models.

==== User manuals ====

[[Media:Prusa3d manual mk3 en 3 04.pdf|Prusa 3D Printer User Manual]]

==== '''Terminology''' ====
* Nozzle/Extruder: The nozzle (or extruder) is the part of a 3D printer which deposits the molten plastic filament onto the 3D printer bed. The extruder can reach 200°-300°C, depending on the filament used, but typically stays around 215°C for regular prints.
* Heatbed: The heatbed is a 14.17" x 14.17" x 14.17" plate where the filament will be "printed" on. The bed heats up to around 60°C. Heated beds typically prevent the plastic from warping by keeping it warm. Warping is a common issue that happens on 3D printers, where the plastic of the print cools at an uneven rate, leaving the print wavy and not the way you intended.
* Feeder: The feeder is the part of the 3D printer that "feeds" the filament to the nozzle. Sometimes "feeder" and "extruder" are used synonomously, so it's important when you're teaching someone to differentiate whether or not you're talking about the ''nozzle'' extruder or the ''feeder'' extruder. Feeders are typically composed of stepper motors, gears, and sometimes bolts and pulleys to guide the filament to the hot end.
* Fan: There are usually two fans on the nozzle of a 3D printer, and they serve the purpose of cooling the plastic as soon as it comes out of the nozzle. If the plastic is super hot, we don't want it to move as soon as it is in place on the part we're making, otherwise our part will turn out warped or failed. The fans are put in place to strategically cool the plastic as soon as it comes out of the nozzle. You are able to turn the fan speeds up and down in the slicer software (if that is a provided feature), but you can manually configure it on the printer as well.
* Stepper Motor: There are two main places where you'll find stepper motors on a 3D printer. There's a motor for each axes, one for the x, y, and z. These motors receive instructions from the gcode to move the certain axes at certain points to create your print. There is also a stepper motor in the extruder setup, pushing and pulling the filament whenever more or less is needed for the current print.
* Infill: Infill has to do with a 3D print's structural integrity. It can be multiple shapes and patterns (providing different strength optimizations), different sizes, and different thicknesses. Infill ranges anywhere from 0% (hollow) to 100% (solid). It is very unlikely you'll ever want a print to be 100% infill, because it takes an insane amount of filament and a lot of time to complete. Most 3D prints are 15% infill since it is the most optimal choice for cost efficiency and durability. If your concern is cost, a lesser infill density is a good way to go. If strength and mass is important, a higher density (between 30%-50%) is a good estimate. When using a higher infill, always double check to make sure it's a good idea for your part, and that you're using the right machine. Other 3D printers in the prototype lab have the option of a stronger filament than PLA or ABS, so it may be a better idea to print for strength on those rather than the Prusas.
* Filament: There are many different kinds of filament you can use on the 3D printer, ranging from PLA, to ABS, TPU to Nylon. The most common of these are PLA and ABS; the Prusas are usually set up with PLA. PLA stands for Polylactic Acid, it is the most common desktop 3D printing filament because it is odorless and very hard to warp on its own, therefore not always a need for a heated bed. ABS stands for Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene. It's one of the most commercial versions of plastic available (found in legos, packaging, and more)--it's durable, scratch resistant, and tough. Heated beds are a must with ABS filament because it is so temperature sensitive, so it warps very easily. The Prusas use 1.75 mm filament.
* CAD Modeling and Thingiverse: There are two ways you can 3D print models. You can either design your own with a CAD (computer-aided design) software, or you can find something similar to what you want on websites like Thingiverse. Thingiverse has all sorts of community-contributed designs, which you can download the .stl files for, slice, and print the models. As for modeling your own projects, there are multiple softwares you can use such as SolidWorks, AutoCAD, Autodesk Inventor, FreeCAD, and many more.
* Slicing: Each 3D printer uses a slicer software, a software where you can import the model file (usually an .stl file) onto a computerized build plate, resize, change up the nozzle and bed temperatures, adjust the infill and precision, and more. The slicer software takes into consideration all your configurations, then "slices" it into a .gcode file, a set of instructions for the x, y, and z dimensions. The 3D printer can read and tell the stepper motors what to do from the set of instructions within the gcode. The slicer software used for the Prusa XL is called Prusa Slicer.

==Multiple Materials on Prusa Slicer==
To use multiple filament you need to first make sure that you have multiple filaments in the Prusa that can be used.
* Go under the "Printer" drop down on the right tab, make sure that 'Original Prusa XL .4 nozzle'
is selected.
[[File:Prusa1.png|none|thumb|1108x1108px]]
* Click the 'Printer Settings' tab on the top left and set the number to 5 (even if you are not using 5 nozzles the number still needs to be 5. This is because the filament you need may be in the 5th position).
[[File:Prusa2.png|none|thumb|1108x1108px]]
* Go back to the platter and then add whatever filaments you will be using on the print.
[[File:Prusa3.png|none|thumb|1108x1108px]]
* Click the paint icon labeled 'multimaterial painting'. It is on the left panel of icons
[[File:Prusa4.png|none|thumb|1108x1108px]]
* The smart fill option will be the most useful, however you can use whichever feature you need. Left click to use the first filament and right click to use the second filament.
[[File:Prusa5.png|none|thumb|1108x1108px]]
* Now your file has multiple types of material!!
* I found this video very helpful
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhTc3jOhz8E&t=135s}}

==Priority Printing==
Due to the speed and capability for multiple print materials, prints for classes will take priority to personal prints. Especially during busier times, personal prints may be prohibited in order to give students the resources they need.
==Water Dissolvable Filament==
With multiple filaments being used on the Prusa XL, we have the ability to utilize water dissolvable filaments for supports on complex builds. This enables students to use the [[Dissolvable Support Bath]] to remove supports made of water dissolvable filament. To use the Bath, students still need to pass the canvas quiz for the bath and Prusa XL

== Training ==

==== Operation ====
Printing on the Prusa will always start with an STL file that you export from Solidworks or download from the internet. However, the printer cannot interpret a STL file and must be converted to a gcode file which instructs the printer on how to complete the print. The process of creating a gcode is called "slicing" and is done in the Prusa Slicer software. Prusa Slicer allows you to customize any part of the print process and is color coded to distinguish simple settings from expert settings so you can tell which settings can be adjusted without risk of messing things up. For the most part, the preset setting options will work well but feel free to experiment with settings to improve print detail or speed (check out [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kW9SnK4LKc this video] for example). After you have sliced your STL file the rest of the setup is simple. Save the new gcode to the SD card found in the printer, turn on the machine, select "print from SD card" to find your file, and then click to start the print. Make sure to clean the print bed with isopropyl alcohol before the print starts and watch the print for the first five minutes to make sure it doesn't fail. Also, the video below walks through the setup process in detail starting from downloading a stl file which is helpful.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ttg2wEjD784&list=PLP1rv37BojTfJ5TjDXiSNqDnEPnvChsYZ&index=11}}

==== Demonstration ====
The student will need download, setup, and successfully start a print of their choice, providing it is within reason and follows Prototype Lab guidelines. If possible, they should stay as long as possible in case a print fails, which will be an opportunity to teach them basic troubleshooting of the machine.
==== General Procedure ====
Setting up a print:
# Once you have a model you would like to print (which you can find on either thingiverse or model one yourself), you will be using a software called Prusa Slicer to slice your .stl files into a .gcode file, which the printer will interpret and print your model from.
# Open Prusa Slicer. When you open Prusa Slicer, it looks like this:[[File:Slicer Home.png|none|thumb|1108x1108px]]At the top, you have your basic toolbar where you can import files and fine tune print settings. The toolbar on the left side of the screen is used for rotating/orienting, moving, scaling, and even cutting the model. The window on the right side of the screen is used to select the printer being used and select preset print settings. You can also choose between simple, advanced, and expert settings in this window. Feel free to select any of these modes. Throughout the software each setting is color coded to match these skill levels to make it easy to tell which settings are simplest to adjust.
#To import your file, click on "File > Import > Import STL", and you'll be presented with your file system to choose whatever model you have ready. Click "open" to import the file.
#Once the model is imported you will need to orient it correctly. The toolbar on the left has two options for doing this. One is the basic rotate tool which allows you to rotate a specific number of degrees around any axis. You can drag the model with this tool as well but this is not advised because you may not line the face up with the print bed properly which may result in print errors. If you do not know the rotation angle you need use the second option, place on face, to rotate one face of your model to match the print bed. The correct orientation will change based on your model so make sure to check out the short video below for some tips.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGhgaypou6E&list=PLTCCNNvHC8PDR_jQy609toqq8EAfhiOOL&index=26}}
#Set the rest of the object setting using the left toolbar.
#* In the Position settings, you can adjust where on the printer bed you would like your print to start. Due to automatic bed leveling, the center of the printer bed is always the best place to put your model. If you are printing multiple parts, then arrange everything from the center outwards. You can click and drag your model around and see the change in the X and Y coordinates, and if you need it to be super precise, you can use the keyboard to change the values in the Position settings.
#* Scale is important, it determines how large you want your print to be. If you modeled your print to specific dimensions, Prusa Slicer will import it with the correct dimensions, and you can skip this section. If it is too large, you can scale the model down to 70%-90% and see how that affects the size, and vice versa, changing the scale to 110%-130% if need be.
#Set the correct printer settings.
#* Below is the settings you'll most likely be working with, such as the material, quality, infill, support, and sizing.[[File:Basic Settings.png|none|thumb]]On the Prusa's, we currently only use PLA, so we'll always be keeping the Material option as Prusa PLA.
#* The quality of the print has to do with the size of each individual layer. The finer the quality, the longer the time is to print your model. Almost always you'll want your print to be Optimal quality (0.15mm), since about all prints turn out good with that setting, but you can choose from several other presets as well. A smaller layer height will allow for more definition in the vertical plane but will take longer to print. Each layer height has a preset for fast and quality that you can choose from based on your print needs. If you are feeling adventurous then the pint and printer settings can be individually adjusted instead of using a preset.
#* Next, you'll change the infill. If you don't know how much infill you need, check out the definition of infill above or talk to the supervisor for help. This option will almost always stay at 15% infill.
#* Now we come to support! Support is extra material printed around your model to support tougher geometric angles and overhangs that the printer can't get to on its own. It is easily torn off at the end of the print.
#* The Brim option is for bed adhesion. You will typically want this option, since it helps prevent the warping of the part you are printing. A brim is most important for prints that have a small surface area that is in contact with the plate.
# When all those settings are complete, you can click "Slice now" in the bottom right corner, and Slicer will give you a time and filament estimate for your print. If they seem reasonable, you can save the newly "sliced" .gcode file to the SD card that will go into the printer! Do this by clicking "Export G code." You can always go back and adjust the settings to fit your time and/or filament needs before saving the file.
Starting a Print:
# Thoroughly clean the build plate with isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel.
# Once you have the gcode file on the SD card, put the SD card into the Prusa (on the left side of the orange menu), and turn the printer on using the power switch on the left side of the printer. The printer will read the SD card and initialize itself, then you can start.
# In the menu, there is an option you want called "Print from SD Card" that will take you to a list of all the .gcode files on the SD card. Select this by rotating the knob until this option is highlighted and then press down on the knob.
# Search until you find your file, and then select it.
# Make sure there is enough filament on the printer for your print, or it will fail midway!
# Naturally, the printer will set itself up for PLA settings, which is approximately 215°C for the extruder, and 60°C for the heated bed. This will take a few minutes. Often filament will start oozing out of the nozzle once it is fully heated, but don't worry, the printer will clean off the filament after calibration. If these temperatures are not correct, click to open a menu and the scroll to the "Tune" option. From there the temperatures can be adjusted.
# Make sure that there are no filament strings attached to the nozzle as the print is starting.
# Watch the print for at least 5 minutes to make sure it adheres properly and then every 5 minutes for the next 20 minutes.
Finishing a Print:
# When the print completes successfully, the Prusa will delightfully present the print by moving the print bed forward, and the extruder will go back to the homing location. On the menu screen it will display how long the last print took, and the other normal settings like the temperature of the print bed and nozzle.
# To get the print off of the bed, take the magnetic steel bed off and bend it just slightly to pop the brim of the print off of the bed. From there you can take the print off carefully by hand.
# If the print was successful, congratulations! If not, time to diagnose the problem and try again.
# Put the magnetic bed back onto the Prusa, and if there are no more prints needing to be done, power it off.
Loading New Filament:
# When the printer runs out of filament, typically you'll want to find a shop aid to help you change the filament.
# All you need to do is go to the menu, select the "Unload Filament" option, and the printer should start heating up.
# Once it heats up, it'll unload the filament and you can pull it out of the extruder.
# Be sure to tuck the end of the filament through one of the holes on the spool before storing it. If this is not done, it can cause knots in the spool which cause failed prints and damage to printers.
# As for loading new filament, find the option in the menu labelled "Autoload Filament", and the printer will walk you through the instructions for loading the new spool of filament.
Pausing or Stopping a Print:
# To pause a print in the middle of the job, press the knob and it'll pull up a printing menu. There are two options near the bottom, "Stop Print" and "Pause Print". If the print is failing, you definitely want to stop it. If you need to change filament or think you can save the print before it fails anymore, you can pause the print.
Possible Print Failure Causes:
# Failure of material to adhere to the bed.
# No support around the model.
# The first layer of the print warps.
# The brim gets torn and dragged around

==TVs==

Looking for a project that uses the Prusa 3D printer? Check out this TV for an [[Egg Shaker]].

== Safety ==
* Be careful what you touch; the nozzle and filament leaving it are over 200°C which will easily cause burns. Although only 60°C, the build plate should not be touched during printing.
* Keep hands away from the travel rods because they will pinch fingers with ease.
* Support material can be sharp so be careful when removing it.

==Approved Filaments==
* PLA
* PETG (seek assistance from the Prototype Lab staff to set up a Prusa to print with PETG)
* TPU

==Certification==
Complete the Prototype Lab - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/GH36RT Maker Hub Canvas Course]

== Troubleshooting ==
Here are some ways your print can fail in the beginning, and how to troubleshoot it:
* '''Brim is pulled off of bed and dragged around by the nozzle:''' If it's just starting the brim of the print and having trouble adhering to the bed, you can pull off the first few rounds of the brim and let the print continue. Sometimes the outer part of the brim has more trouble adhering than the inner parts. If it continues to fail, stop the print. Make sure you have the best orientation possible for your part, make sure the nozzle of the printer is clean, and try starting the print again. If it continues to fail, find a supervisor to help you.
* '''Parts of the print detach mid-print:''' Stop the print. Often if parts of the print detach from the model it is due to failure to adhere to support. Ask a supervisor if the geometry of your part is too complex for the Prusas. If not, adjust the sizing, change around some support settings, and try the print again. If it continues to fail, try to break the part into smaller prints and assemble them when done.
* '''Extruded filament is too thin/not adhering to layers OR Filament will not come out of nozzle:''' When the filament is too thin or not coming out, there is often a blockage or small piece of filament in the extruder. Ask a supervisor for help.
* '''Print will not adhere to bed:''' If your 3D print will not adhere to the bed after lots of tries, the last resort can be some glue stick. For trickier prints with small bases, sometimes this is the trick. Always make sure you try the brim option before using the glue stick on the printer. When the print is finished, clean off the printer bed.
* '''Support fails:''' If the support gets really stringy as the print continues and in turn fails the print, see if you can have a supervisor help you change the density of the support. Double check that the printer is not shaking too much as you print your model. If you still don't know what to do after your print fails, ask a supervisor.
* '''First layer of print warps:''' If the first layer of your print warps and affects the rest of your print, lower the bed temperature, and start the print again. If it continues to warp, try adding some adhesive on the printer bed.
* '''Thermal Runaway:''' Thermal Runaway is a safety feature designed to prevent the printer from accidentally catching fire. If your printer's thermistor would somehow dislodge itself, electronic parts would get a lower (incorrect) temperature reading. In an attempt to compensate for the lower temperature, the heater would reach dangerously high temperatures, with the printer potentially becoming a fire hazard. Thermal Runaway prevents that from happening. Thermal Runaway is configured to shut down the printer when the temperature drops by more than 15°C for more than 45 seconds. If the temperature reading doesn't recover in the set time period, the printer will shut down and display the Thermal Runaway error. All hotend heaters are thoroughly tested, so they can run at 200°C with the print cooling fan at a 100% speed. To print materials that require higher temperatures (like PLA at 215°C), the speed of the fan must be decreased in the Prusa Slicer software or manually during the print. Incorrect fan speeds are sometimes the result of using gcode from a different type of printer. Pay attention to your prints as they start the second layer, as this is usually when the print cooling fan kicks in.

 

If your issue or error is not found here, ask the supervisor for help, or you can research on this website: https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#section-fdm-3d-printing-problems-my-print-failed

Failed Calibration:

If the printer fails while calibrating, there will be an error message that suggests you clean the nozzle off and retry the print.

Crash Detected:

When the nozzle hits something it's not used to, such as an obstruction in the print, the print bed, or something else that stops the extruder from moving, the printer will error and say it crashed. It will ask you to clean off any excess filament and stuff that gets in the way of the extruder. If it continues to fail because of a crash, ask a supervisor for help.

== Maintenance ==

==== Specific Maintenance Tasks ====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|1
|Wiping Down Buildplate
|Before every new print
|Student
|-
|2
|Cleaning of Nozzle
|When needed
|Ace
|-
|3
|Clean and lubricate travel rods
|When needed
|Ace
|}
# Grab a paper towel from the sink and the isopropyl alcohol from next to the Formlabs printer. Use these to wipe down the build plate and make sure you do not touch the plate after doing this because that will get oils on it.
# Raise the print head in the z axis until the nozzle is easily accessible. Use tweezers, paper towels, isopropyl alcohol, or any other substances to remove filament from the nozzle. If the nozzle is clogged, use a wrench to remove it and clean out any filament inside. A heat gun may be helpful for this.
# Wipe down the smooth travel rods with a paper towel and then re-lubricate them. Clean the threaded rods with a brush and then re-lubricate them.

File:Prusa XL Sheild 2.png

2025-05-20T23:04:27Z

Arodgers24: