makerhub - User contributions [en]

Planer

2021-07-22T22:41:41Z

Cpainter17: /* General Procedure */

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:planer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Planer icon
|Has iconwname=File:planer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:planer.png
|Has imagedesc=Powermatic Planer
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1245
|Has make=Powermatic
|Has model=209HH-3
|Has serial number=1706209HH5185
|Has ace=Logan Hanbey;lhanbey17@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Powermatic planer contains a 5HP motor and 20" planing capacity that will handle the most demanding work. The helical cutterhead provides quieter operation and finer finishing than conventional systems, and the four-sided knife inserts seat themselves without requiring a set-up gauge. The 5" dust port connects easily to any dust collector. Used to remove material from wood, as well as squaring to create straight pieces. <ref>Description adapted from [http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/209hh-20-planer-5hp-3ph-230-460v/1791316 Powermatic].</ref>
The Planer is used to trim wood boards down by precise measurements, never more than 1/16 of an inch on each pass. The anti-kickback fingers and pressure bar are located in close proximity to the cutterhead for an exceptional finish. The solid cast iron base, table and head are designed for production. The 2-speed oil bath gearbox transmits full power to feed rollers and facilitates fast speed changes at 24 and 31 FPM. The gearbox can be changed to 4-speed with the included gear to run lower speeds of 16 and 20 FPM. The corrugated infeed and fine groove outfeed rollers ensure a smooth feed. The precision ground and polished cast iron table rides on four steel columns giving it plenty of support for the larger workpiece. Heavy cast iron extension wings ensure a flat, smooth cut.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcGqyujNYlM}}
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRK0yW4CcWs}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
[[File:...Planer.png|none|thumb|500x500px]]

[http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/209hh-20-planer-5hp-3ph-230-460v/1791316 Vendor Website]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Planer is used to trim wood boards down by precise measurements, never more than 1/16 of an inch per pass. It is super useful for making smooth surfaces without taking off too much material.

====Demonstration====

The demonstration for this machine will be to plane both sides of scrap piece of wood from the Wood Shop. It would be preferable to use a piece of wood that is warped in some way to understand the process of planning each side.

====General Procedure====
# Connect one of the dust collectors (shown below) on so we can keep the place clean. <gallery>
File:Small Dust Collector Image.jpg|Small Dust Collector
File:Large Dust Collector Image.jpg|Large Dust Collector
</gallery>
# Make sure the material is free of all foreign objects, loose knots, and splits
# Before turning on the machine, loosen the table lock nuts on the side of the machine. slide the material into the machine and slowly adjust the table height by rotating the handwheel until the material
# The key is to take off very little material on the first pass and adjust as needed.
# Remove piece and adjust wheel to trim desired amount off of work piece.
# Never attempt to remove more than 1/16” per pass (one turn). Do not over load the motor. Multiple passes result in less tear-out and are easier on the machine.
# Always take your measurements at the thickest part of the board and adjust planer to match this thickness.
# Do not attempt to run stock less than 12” in length through the planer.
# Turn the Thickness Planer on and wait until it has reached full speed before starting to plane your stock.
# Only plane one piece of stock at a time. Stand to the side of the stock and feed it into the infeed opening. Let go of the stock when the roller takes hold of it. Never put your finger in the machine.
# Always plane with the grain, never perpendicular to grain (i.e., feed boards lengthwise, not width-wise).
# Never attempt to force feed the planer; always allow stock to move through under the force of the feed roller only.
# Stock will sometimes “hang” (or stop moving forward). If the material stops feeding power off the machine and wait for the cutter to stop spinning before attempting to remove the board.
## The feed control may have slipped. Simply push it all the way to the right.
## The table is too high (not adjusted to the proper height). This should NOT happen since you’re supposed to measure the stock and then make table adjustment according to your needs.
# Never attempt to feed stock into the out feed side. The motor turns one direction and will try to spit it right back at you.
# Be careful not to let your fingers become pinched between stock and table. It will hurt a lot.
# If stock is real long, get help holding it while you feed it into the in-feed opening. Ensure your helper is standing to the side of the stock and NOT behind it.
# Keep your full attention on the stock, the controls, and where your hands/fingers are while you plane.
# After half of the stock has entered the planer, walk around back and hold the end up as the rest of the stock comes out of the machine. Do not pull the stock out; simply allow the machine to push it toward you. Adjust the pressure bar lever if needed.
# Do NOT plane to a thickness less than 1/4”.
# Listen to the sound the planer makes as it’s operating. If something doesn’t sound right, turn the Thickness Planer off and notify the shop aid.
# Planing thickness is the only adjustment that should be made while the planer running. The machine should be off before making any other adjustments.
# When finished working with the Thickness Planer, turn the machine off and remain in the work zone until it stops moving.
# Clean off the infeed table so that the next users’ stock will be able to make contact directly with the table instead of being raised up slightly by the chips left after you’re finished planing.
# Turn off and disconnect the dust collector.

==Safety==
# '''NEVER''' allow your hands/fingers to enter the infeed opening.
# '''NEVER''' turn on the Thickness Planer with stock inside the infeed opening. No good.
# '''NEVER''' bend down to look into a planer while it is running.
# '''NEVER''' attempt to repair the machine or remove any panels.
# '''NEVER''' put your finger in a knot hole while operating the Thickness Planer.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1245 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# If the Planer seems to be missing a spot on your board, then it is likely that you have a chipped blade. Replacing the blade would then be imperative before its next use.
# If the Planer does not seem to be cutting smoothly, then it is likely that the blade is getting dull. Replacing the blade would then be imperative before its next use.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

General and specific tasks need to take place to maintain machinery. Specific tasks are listed below '''''Note: In [Specific Maintenance Tasks below, 5th item has redundant terms "use if rusted", not sure how to edit table - CZ]'''''

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Work area around machine marked off clearly
|Before and after each use
|Student and Ace
|-
|Non-skid floor strips in area where operator normally stands
|Before and after each use
|Student
|-
|Clean with dust collectors and remove gum/pitch with with oven cleaner
|After each use
|Student
|-
|Lubricate appropriate places with a good grade non-hardening grease
|When needed
|Ace
|-
|Clean Table surface. If rusted, use If rusted, use paste mixture of household ammonia, a good commercial detergent and 000 steel wool. Wash surface down with hot, soapy water, rinse and dry thoroughly. Coat surface with talcum powder, rubbing briskly into surface with a clean blackboard eraser.
|Before and after each use
|Student and Ace
|-
|Check blade condition, should be sharp and free of nicks or grooves
|Before and after each use
|Ace
|-
|Check belt condition. Replace as needed. Dress with belt dressing. Check belt tension
|Before and after each use
|Ace
|-
|Check motor for loose wiring and sawdust congestion, pulleys tight and in line.
|Before and after each use
|Ace
|-
|Check bearings. Replace any bad or suspect bearings immediately.
|Before and after each use
|Ace
|-
|Check leveling of extension tables with main table.
|Before and after each use
|Ace
|}
[[File:...planerMaintainance.png|none|thumb|610x610px]]
<references />

Maker Hub Wiki

2021-07-22T18:36:40Z

Cpainter17:

This wiki is created on [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/MediaWiki MediaWiki] Version {{CURRENTVERSION}}.

The goal of this wiki is to provide information on the facilities, equipment, tools, supplies, and software available in the George Fox University Maker Hub. If you have never edited a Wiki before, you should reference the documentation on the [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/MediaWiki MediaWiki] site - specifically the page on [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Editing Editing].

This site makes use of the standard extension, [https://www.semantic-mediawiki.org/wiki/Semantic_MediaWiki Semantic MediaWiki]. This extension allows us to set one or more [https://www.semantic-mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Properties_and_types properties] on unique wiki pages. These properties can then be queried within other pages and the results can be dynamically displayed in a variety of [https://www.semantic-mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Result_formats result formats]. The main benefit is that a lot of entries can be auto-generated to allow easy navigation of the site as the site develops and evolves. The editors can add new pages, attach properties to those pages, and then have those pages automatically show up on other pages. This saves the editors from having to maintain a variety of lists on multiple pages.

For example, on the [[Maker_Hub|Main Page]], there is a section for [[Maker_Hub#Facilities|Facilities]]. This section looks like this:

<nowiki>==[[Facilities]]==
The Maker Hub is comprised of the following [[Facilities|facilities]]. These links describe each area and the resources within those areas.
{{#ask: [[Is facility::True]]
|format=ul
}}</nowiki>

The [https://www.semantic-mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Inline_queries#Parser_function_.23ask '''ask'''] directive is a [https://www.semantic-mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Inline_queries Semantic MediaWiki inline query]. This particular query searches the wiki pages for pages that have the property [[Property:Is facility|Is facility]] set to True. ''(There is an article on [https://www.semantic-mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Property_naming Property naming] and in the best practices section, it is advised that you use a verb phrase to describe properties). Also, properties can have various [https://www.semantic-mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:List_of_datatypes datatypes] - in this case, the property datatype is Boolean.'' The [https://www.semantic-mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Result_formats |format=ul] line directs the results to be printed out as an unordered list.

The value in this particular setup is that, when a new facility is added to the space, it will automatically show up in this list. Now, one might argue that facilities are not going to show up at frequent intervals, and, this is true. However, we can extend this practice to create new lists, and [[Equipment]] is one of the major ones. The use of properties allows us to have properties that mark pages as equipment ([[Property:Is equipment|Is equipment::True]]), and to say that the equipment is located in a particular facility ([[Property:Is located in facility|Is Located in facility::Machine Shop]]), and to indicated that the equipment is used in a particular domain ([[Property:Is used in domain|Is used in domain::Metal]]). The use of properties rather than page structure gives us tremendous flexibility in expanding to future groupings. Imagine that we might want to see all equipment that is used on Wood that is located in the Machine Shop or the Wood Shop. This can be easily generated with a query.

One important point for some of the more sophisticated uses on this Wiki (e.g. templates, properties, etc.) - you might not see their effect on other pages until you refresh those pages using the More->Refresh tab at the top of the wiki. This is because a lot of the elements are cached, and a simple refresh on the browser won't necessarily refresh the cache.

==Video Tutorials==

===The Basics===

<div><ul>
<li style="display: inline-block;"> [[File:Video Tutorial 1 - Logging In and Layout.mp4|thumb|none|400px|'''1 - Logging In and Layout''']] </li>
<li style="display: inline-block;"> [[File:Video Tutorial 2 - Basic Editing.mp4|thumb|none|400px|'''2 - Basic Editing''']] </li>
</ul></div>

==Refresh==
If you just made an edit and it doesn't show up immediately, the cache needs to be cleared. You can either 1) wait some time and it will eventually fix itself or 2) go to the top right of the page where it says "Move" and then click "Refresh."

==Properties==
You can see all of the properties in use on the page [[Special:Properties]]. However, these are all of the properties in use in the entire Wiki. To identify the properties of interest to us, we will mark each of them with the Boolean property [[Property:Is property]]. Clicking on this link shows every property we have marked with this. However, we would also like to add the datatype property ([[Property:Has type]]) as well as a description for our own use ([[Property:Has description]]). We can query these properties and display a table here like this (view the source to see how this is done):

{{#ask: [[Is property::True]]
|?Has description=Description
|?Has type=Datatype
|?Allows value list=Allowed Values
}}

===Creating New Properties===

To create a new property, assign it on a page using standard Property Syntax. This can be done [https://www.semantic-mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Properties_and_types inline], but most often in this wiki, you will see the [https://www.semantic-mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Setting_values set] directive used.

<nowiki> {{#set:
| Property_1_Name=Value
| Property_2_Name=Value
}} </nowiki>

When you have saved this property, reference the [https://www.semantic-mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Factbox Factbox] located at the bottom of the screen. If this is not visible, insert the line
<nowiki> __SHOWFACTBOX__ </nowiki>
at the bottom of the wiki page. Remember to remove this line when you have completed it. This will show you the properties created on this page and their values. You can click on the links to the new properties to open their wiki pages. Conversely, you could simply navigate to Property:Property_1_Name in the Wiki if that is easier (and skip the whole factbox thing - but - I like to see the values). On the property page, you will want to declare the property [https://www.semantic-mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:List_of_datatypes dataype]. The default type is Page, but it is still useful to set this. You can see the datatypes specified or our properties in the table above. It is a good idea to look at the Wiki markup on these pages and copy it from a similar property.

Also - in the sidebar of the Wiki, there is a ''Browse properties'' link that shows the properties of the Page. This has some useful information as well.

===Restricting Property Values===

When you create a new property that has a Page (or Text, or possibly other values) that can be assigned to a wide range of values, it might be nice to restrict those values to a particular subset so that typos don't render the property useless. This has been done on the [[Property:Is used in domain|Is used in domain]] and the [[Property:Is located in facility|Is located in facility]] properties. You will see a special property added to those property pages called [https://www.semantic-mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Special_property_Allows_value_list Allows value list]. The [[https://www.semantic-mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Special_property_Allows_value_list help link] provides all of the pertinent information, but of special importance is the following:

<nowiki>Two steps have to be taken to use this special property:

Add [[Allows value list::...]] to a property page for defining a page reference, e.g. [[Allows value list::Foo]] will define page "MediaWiki:Smw_allows_list_Foo".
Add permissible values as listed items starting either with "*" or "**" to the "MediaWiki:Smw_allows_list_..." page, e.g. "* Bar" or "** Foobar" to page "MediaWiki:Smw_allows_list_Foo".</nowiki>

However, might want to go one step further and auto-generate this list from our own properties. For instance, all of our domains are marked with the [[Property:Is domain]] and our facilities are marked with the [[Property:Is facility]]. If you view the pages for [[MediaWiki:Smw_allows_list_Domains]] and [[MediaWiki:Smw_allows_list_Facilities]], you will see that they have the correct unordered lists. But if you view the source, you will see something like the following (from [[MediaWiki:Smw_allows_list_Domains]]):
<nowiki>{{#ask: [[Is domain::True]]
|format=template
|template=Starlist for allow value list
|link=none
}} </nowiki>

This autogenerates the correct ordered list for everything marked [[Property:Is domain]]. One might think that using the |format=ul would create the appropriate unordered list format (with the * in front), but it apparently does not. Therefore, this query removes the page link (link=none) and reduces the entry to simple text, and then it uses the template [[Template:Starlist_for_allow_value_list]] to render the text with a * in front of it (''See [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Templates help on templates] for an explanation of templates''). This works well.

If, for some reason, you do enter a value that is not on the allowed list of values, the page will render a small warning icon like this: [[File:small_warning_icon.png|12px|Small Warning Icon]]..

There are some other lurking gotchas that can show up. The default list size is 50. This can be set by $smwgQDefaultLimit in the CustomSettings.php file (on the server, not the wiki). I have asked to have this changed - but you would need to check to see what the actual value is. This can be overridden on a case by case basis by using the limit=100 (or limit=500) or whatever value you want - as one of the parameters in the ask wiki. So - wherever you ask for something like equipment, you certainly want more than 50. Likely the same for software. This showed up in the ask section for [[MediaWiki:Smw_allows_list_Equipment]]. This "ask" has been changed to have a limit of 500.

===Philosophy on New Properties===
Basically, there isn't much of one. The beauty of properties is that you can add them, and mix and match them to form unique queries. I suspect that there will be a query that shows every piece of equipment in the Maker Hub. There could be one that shows everything - equipment, tools, supplies, etc. There could be one that shows equipment in the machine shop. And then, one can create more focused properties. I have initially created two as examples - [[Property:Is sheet metal equipment|Is sheet metal equipment]] and [[Property:Is soldering iron equipment|Is soldering iron equipment]]. I suspect that we will mark the [[Sheet Metal Shear]] as both [[Property:Is equipment|Is equipment]] and [[Property:Is sheet metal equipment|Is sheet metal equipment]]. This way, the [[Sheet Metal Shear]] will show up on lists that show equipment as well as lists that show the more focused sheet metal equipment. However, [[Soldering Irons]] will be marked as [[Property:Is equipment|Is equipment]], but the [[Weller_WES51]] will only be marked as [[Property:Is soldering iron equipment|Is soldering iron equipment]]. This means that [[Soldering Irons]] will show up on a general equipment query, but the [[Weller_WES51]] will not. This decision is somewhat arbitrary and is left to the Wiki editors. In this case, there is no reason to see every particular type of soldering iron on a general equipment list, but the sheet metal shear will show up.

==Equipment==
Adding new equipment is fairly simple. Start by copying another Equipment page and edit to suit. The structure of each equipment page is not fixed, and will likely evolve. However, the header should be fairly similar. Below is an example of the [[Weller WES51]] soldering iron page.
<nowiki>
{{#set:
|Is soldering iron equipment=True
|Has make=Weller
|Has model=WES51
|Is located in facility=Tool Room
|Is located in facility=The Hub
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has function=Soldering Iron
|Has url=http://www.weller-toolsus.com/soldering/systems/weller-wes51-station-50-60w-120v-wes51.html
|Has icon=File:soldering_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Soldering Iron Icon
|Has image=File:WellerWES51.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Weller WES51
|Has description=Standard soldering iron in the Maker Hub
}}

[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

The [http://www.weller-toolsus.com/soldering/systems/weller-wes51-station-50-60w-120v-wes51.html Weller WES51] is the standard [[Soldering Irons (General) | Soldering Iron]] used in the [[Main Page| Maker Hub]]. The Iron
includes the WES series power unit, PES51 soldering pencil, PH50 stand, and sponge. A PW50 probe is available for checkout that allows the user to set (or unset) the soldering temperature.
Each iron is mounted to a tray along with a soldering kit.

 __TOC__
</nowiki>

The first section is used to set a large number of page properties. The first of these normally sets the page to be an "equipment" page using the [Property:Is equipment] property. However, as the Weller is a subset of Soldering Irons, it doesn't set this property, it instead sets the [Property:Is soldering iron equipment]. Others properties set images and icons and such. Notice the duplicate [Property:Is located in facility] entries to show how the equipment is located in more than one facility. This can also be done with domains. The #show sections are generic and display the icon and the image with the appropriate descriptions. These are the same on every equipment page. There is then some explanatory text followed by an ''optional'' table of contents with a line break before it. The table of contents will show up automatically if there are 3 or more headings, but this makes it show up explicitly at this point - and the line break is just for visual effect.

One property that is not on the Weller is the [Property:Has certification], as this is done on the [Soldering Irons] page. Most equipment should have this as it is a link to the certification URL (typically a Canvas course).

=== Equipment Queries ===
The current incantation of [[Machine Shop]] has a couple of queries. The first is straightforward. It looks like this:
<nowiki>
{{#ask:
[[Is equipment::True]]
[[Is located in facility::Machine Shop]]
|format=Category
}}</nowiki>

This is looking for pages that are marked as equipment and located in the Machine Shop. The format lines says to present it in category format. The category format could be replaced with other options, such as ordered or unordered lists. See the [https://www.semantic-mediawiki.org/wiki/Help:Inline_queries#Parser_function_.23ask Semantic Mediawiki Ask] documentation for explanations.

The second one is a little more complicated. It looks like this:
<nowiki>
{{#ask:
[[Is equipment::True]]
[[Is located in facility::Machine Shop]]
|?Has icon=Icon
|?Has image=Image
|headers=show
|format=template
|template=EquipmentListTable
|introtemplate=EquipmentListTableIntro
|outrotemplate=EquipmentListTableOutro
|link=none
}}</nowiki>

In this case, the search is for the same pages, but the query is being asked to return the icon from the [[Property:Has icon|Has icon]] property, and also the image from the [[Property:Has image|Has image]] property. The format is not one of the preformatted types, but a template, which is provided as the [[Template:EquipmentListTable|EquipmentListTable]] template. This template is a little tricky in that it embeds CSS tags to render the table. To make this work, a CSS head and tail are required, which are provided by the [[Template:EquipmentListTableIntro|EquipmentListTableIntro]] and [[Template:EquipmentListTableOutro|EquipmentListTableOutro]]template. Finally, to make the CSS references connect with something, CSS entries have to be installed in the MediaWiki CSS structure. This can be done via the [[MediaWiki:Common.css]] page where we have created some special CSS entries for use by this table.

PCB Printer

2021-07-22T18:36:17Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:PCB_printer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Voltera Icon
|Has iconwname=File:PCB_printer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:voltera-vone.png
|Has imagedesc=The Voltera V-One PCB Printer
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1288
|Has model=V-One
|Has group=Circuit Board Design
|Has make=Voltera
|Has serial number=V1-05-0129-120 / V1-04-0183-120
|Has ace=Needed;Needed
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__
==Description==

The PCB Printer (Voltera V-One) brings quick turn PCBs to your desktop. Import your Gerber file into the Voltera software, press print, and the V-One will bring your board to life. Use the drilling, solder paste dispensing, and reflow features to mount components onto your printed board, or mount components on a pre-fabricated board with ease.

This is a simple example of what the PCB Printer can do. Currently the PCB lab has a different baking process using a different oven, so we will be curing the boards using a different method than shown in the video.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6nEgN4THRE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

The following conductive inks and pastes are stocked in the PCB Lab. Each material requires a special heating program setting. See each individual material below for the proper reflow oven setting.

Inks are also identified by a lot name and expiration date. If properly installed, the expiration date should be viewable through the window in the dispenser, but the lot name will not. Refer to the label on the back of the dispenser for the lot name. When selecting the ink you're using in the Voltera software, it will identify the ink by type, lot name, and expiration date. Make sure you select the correct one.

[[File:voltera_aqueous.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Conductive Ink'''

- Use to lay conductive traces on substrates (Green is "V1 Ink" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_furious.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste'''

- Use only on boards that utilize Voltera's ink traces, such as the ink above. (Orange is "V1 Paste" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_armored.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste Sn63 Pb37'''

- Use only premade boards, such as ones from [https://www.sunstone.com/ Sunstone Circuits] (Blue is "Sn63Pb37" on Reflow Oven)

 
 

<gallery>
File:voltera_substrates.jpg|Substrates
File:vone_probe.jpg|Probe
File:Dispenser_and_Sheath.jpg|Dispenser and Sheath
File:voltera_conductive_ink.png|Conductive Ink Cartridge
File:voltera_225_nozzle.jpg|Nozzle - 225 Micron
File:voltera_burnish.jpg|Burnishing Pads
</gallery>

[https://www.voltera.io/ Voltera Home Page]

[https://www.voltera.io/docs/downloads/manuals/Voltera%20V-One%20Manual%20%5BEnglish%5D.pdf User Manual]

[https://support.voltera.io/hc/en-us/sections/115001325748-User-Guides User Guides]

==Training==
====Operation====

The PCB Printer is a fantastic tool for prototyping PCBs. After uploading Gerber files from Altium or a related software, the Voltera will be able to print traces and pads. The Voltera has the ability to bake traces and reflow components on its heated bed, but you will need to use the reflow oven to bake boards. The PCB Lab uses the reflow oven for baking due to the amount of people it needs to accommodate, so users will only be using the PCB Printer to print traces and pads. The Conductive Ink (used for Traces) is indicated by a green dot on the dispenser, the Voltera Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by an orange dot on the dispenser, and the Manufactured Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by a blue dot on the dispenser.

Before beginning with your PCB, it is imperative that it is completely flat, meaning no components are installed, as it will result in breaking the nozzle of the dispenser, or it will be unable to calibrate correctly.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the PCB Printer, the student will design a PCB in Altium or related software, print the traces/pads, and transition to the Reflow Oven. As a part of the process, the student will also perform correct set up and shut down procedures, all of which can be found in the General Procedure below.

====General Procedure====

Using the Voltera to create single-sided boards with NO vias or holes.[[File:voltera_blinky_500.jpg|300x300px|thumb|right|Training board - The Blinky 500]]
# '''Drilling'''
## '''This board in particular does not have any holes, so this entire step can be skipped for this procedure''', however, these are the steps to take if you need to drill holes in the future.
## After opening the Voltera software, select Drill. This option is chosen only if you want to add holes to an existing board.
## For Drilling, you can either choose the Simple or Aligned route. Choose Simple if your board has no existing features, and choose Aligned if your board has some existing features. Lets go through the process for both.
## Drilling for a Simple Board
### Alrighty, you've chosen Simple, so this procedure assumes there is absolutely nothing fabricated on the board. Not gonna lie, this procedure is a little more sketchy than aligned simply because you literally eyeball your board's outline. The no eloquent calibration system. That's just how it works.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Then it will ask you to move your boards location on the plate so the Voltera knows where it needs to drill. This is the sketchy part. It outlines a square, and you make a judgement based on what it thinks. If it outlines too low, move your circuit up further on the plate to compensate for it. If it outlines too far to the left, move your circuit to the right on the plate to compensate for it. Continue this process until it looks "good enough."
### Clean the calibration switches. Do not drench the Q-tip with Isopropyl alcohol, only get damp, and wipe away gently. Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication... [[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient. The transition between printing and drilling is done with the same alignment.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
## Drilling for an Aligned Board
### Awesome, you've chosen Aligned, so this procedure assumes you have some preexisting holes and the like on the board.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Clean the calibration switches. Do not drench the Q-tip with Isopropyl alcohol, only get damp, and wipe away gently.
### Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication...[[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green. Anything that is highlighted in Green will be executed.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
# '''Ready the Ink'''
## The ink is most usable when it reaches room temperature, so we have to let it warm up in advance.
## Reference the [[#Current Inks and Paste|Current Inks and Paste]] for information on the what the PCB lab is currently stocked with.
## Grab the correct conductive ink from the fridge, and let it warm up to room temperature, about 15-30 minutes. It is labeled with a '''green''' sticker.
# '''Software Setup'''
## Download the files for this project [[Media:pcb_printer_level_1.zip|here]].
## Power on the Voltera.
## Open the Voltera Windows application.
## Select "Print" and then "Simple." "Print" indicates that we want to print traces, and "Simple" indicates that the board is not pre-fabricated. If we had a pre-fabricated board, we would instead select "Aligned" so we can align the holes.
## Next we need to add the proper conductive ink, which is the same conductive ink you acquired in step 1.2.
## Load the ink file from the project files. This is the Top Layer Gerber file.
# '''Cleaning the Sensors'''
## Take a cue tip and dip it into the isopropyl alcohol. The cue tip should be moist, but NOT soaked. Dab the cue tip on a paper towel to dry it slightly.
## Clean the calibration switches by rubbing them with the cue tip.This will help clear out any crap that could hurt the sensor. [[File:Voltera cleaning.jpg|border|none|300x300px|Cleaning the calibration switches]]
# '''Clamping the Substrate'''
## Acquire a 1.5" by 2" blank board. They are located in the one of the drawers.
## Slide the board underneath the clamps on the Voltera, push the clamps towards each other, and finger-tighten the thumb screws. You should not be able to move the board once you clamp them down. [[File:Voltera clamping.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Mounting the Probe'''
## Pull the probe from one of the drawers. The probe should have a large metal tip, do not confuse it with the dispenser. [[File:Voltera drawer.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the cap and place it near the Voltera.
## Mount the probe onto the magnetic gantry. It should snap into place and the contacts should align. [[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Positioning and Probing'''
## Click "Outline." This will show you where the Voltera thinks the board is. It will move the probe around the printer surface and determine how close the dispenser will need to be to the board.
## Repeat step one until the outline is centered with the board. Click and drag the circuit in the Voltera application to move the outline.
## '''You MUST ensure the outline does not collide with the clamps AND does not exceed the dimensions of the board!''' Do NOT proceed until this is checked!
## In the next step, Click "Probe" and wait for the Voltera to finish its measurements. [[File:Voltera probing.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the probe, replace the cap, place the probe back in the drawer, and proceed. 
# '''Priming the Conductor'''
## Ensure 15 minutes have passed before beginning the next step. This helps the ink flow easier, so the dispenser should not be cold to the touch.
## '''Read carefully.''' The Voltera application explains this step well. Follow the on-screen instructions before moving on to the next step. Some tips/tricks/warnings: - '''Nozzles are fragile!''' You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Treat this process with care! - Hold the dispenser over a paper towel to prevent ink from getting everywhere. - If you need to wipe the nozzle, do so '''gently''' and '''use a cotton swab found in the drawers.''' - Ink should not be flowing quickly out of the dispenser when you finish priming, but '''a very small amount''' of flow is OK. [[File:Voltera priming.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Mount the dispenser. [[File:Voltera mount_conductive.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Calibration'''
## Click "Advanced." Start with the '''Z at 0.10 mm''' and the '''E at 0 um'''. Adjust the Voltera to these values, as it is a safe distance for the dispenser.
## Click "Calibrate." The Voltera will lay down a test print. Pay close attention to the amount and consistency of the ink.[[File:Voltera calibrate.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below has slightly too much ink. Notice how a portion of the horizontal lines touch and some parts of the ink glob up. [[File:Voltera calibrate_bad.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## In this case, to make an adjustment, the ink height was set to a '''Z of 0.09 mm''' and the flow was set to an '''E of -10 um.''' This dispenses less ink than before.
## '''You may need to do the same or make different adjustments. Whatever you do, do NOT run the nozzle into the board! The nozzle will break!'''
## If an adjustment was made, '''wipe the board clean with a paper towel (shown below) and/or clean it with isopropyl alcohol''' and repeat the calibration. [[File:Voltera calibrate_wipe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below is a more acceptable test print. Strive for this consistency. If your board looks right, proceed. [[File:Voltera calibrate_better.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Click "Next," and wipe the board clean a final time, as you are now preparing to print your whole circuit. 
# '''Top Layer Print'''
## '''The Voltera will print what is selected in Green.''' Below is an example of a portion of the board selected. Ensure the portion you want to print is selected (in this case, select everything.) '''Remember that blue lines will not be printed.''' [[File:voltera_selection.PNG|300x300px|none]]
## Click "Start." Let the Voltera finish its process. If a portion of the print fails or is incorrect, you can stop mid-print, or wait until it is finished and redo that selection. Also shown below is an example of a portion of ink that globbed up. The portion was wiped and can be reprinted. [[File:voltera_printing.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_blob.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_redo.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
## Remove the conductive ink, put the cap back on, '''and return the conductive ink to the fridge!'''
## When you reach the instruction titled "Flip Board," you are done. We want to bake these traces on the Reflow Oven before we do anything else to the board.
## Unclamp the board from the Voltera, and remember that the traces are still wet, so do not smear them around.
## Consult the Reflow Oven wiki and complete that process.
#'''Preparing for Solder Paste'''
##You should now have a PCB with traces baked on it! Time to make those pads for placing components.
##Take a burnishing pad from one of the drawers. Rub the substrate with the pad until the traces have a shine to them, rather than a dull appearance.
##Replace the burnishing pad back into the drawer. This cleans the surface of the traces and makes them look super shiny.
#'''Aligning the Paste'''
##This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to print solder. The user gives it two locations where the pads should go, and the Voltera can use the Gerber files to determine where else pads need to go.
##At this time, retrieve the solder paste from the fridge and set it out to warm. The correct paste is labeled with an '''orange''' sticker.
##Take the board back to the Voltera and clamp the board into place. Again, you should not be able to move the board after it is clamped.
##Open the Voltera application and choose "Solder," and choose the proper paste. In this case you want the '''orange'''-labeled paste.
##Clean the calibration switches, mount the probe, and proceed.
##Click 'Move to feature." This will move the probe to a pre-determined feature and should not be aligned properly on the first go. It is your job to align it correctly.
##First, use the arrow keys to roughly align the feature with the probe. This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to put the pads.
##Next, click "Lower," and use the arrow keys to fine-tune the alignment. Your precision in these steps is key to getting solder paste in the correct places.
##Click "Measure" when the alignment is correct. The board will be probed and the head will move to a second feature.
##Repeat steps 8 and 9.
##Click "Measure." The alignment is now finished.
##You can confirm the alignment by clicking various features and seeing if the head moves to the right position. If something is off, you can go back and realign if necessary. Proceed until you need to measure the height of the board.
##Click "Probe." This will measure the height of the board and determine how far away the dispenser needs to be from the board.
##Once it finishes probing, remove the probe and replace it in the drawer.
#'''Priming the Paste'''
##Refer to the priming directions in step 8 before mounting the dispenser.
##Once it is primed, mount it and proceed.
##Click "Dispense." The paste will dispense onto all of the selected pads.
##Strive for good coverage of paste, preferably covering most of the pad, if not all of it.
##Remove the dispenser. Twist the knob clockwise to back off the paste. '''Put it back in the fridge,''' and quit the Voltera app.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that you are handling a board with wet paste. Clean up!
##You are now done with the PCB Printer! Refer to the Pick and Place as well as the Reflow Oven wikis for the remainder of the process.
# '''18658 [what is this?]'''
## The board consists of a button, a 680Ω resistor, and an LED. Attach a fixed 5VDC connection to the + and -, and the LED should illuminate.

==Safety==
# When the PCB Printer is moving and doing its thing, just let it be. Interfering will result in breaking equipment and possibly hurting yourself, especially with the drill. Voltera gives excellent advice/steps for their PCB fabrication process, be sure to follow them.
# If you feel like you do not know what you are doing, ask someone for help. You could damage both the equipment and possibly hurt yourself. Do not hesitate to ask or confirm at any point during the process.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1288 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# Drilling
## If your holes seem to be all out of wack, be sure to confirm the following: you should be using the vacuum to suck up any debris that comes from drilling your board while it is drilling. The pieces can interfere with your part.
## If they seem to be drilling in the wrong places, then it probably isn't aligned correctly. Go back in the process and start over.
# Calibration/Alignment
## During the probing process, be sure that your board is completely flat and that the clamps cover a minimal amount of the board while keeping it secure. If the probing hits the claps or runs off the board, the calibration is no good. Go back to the initial stages where you align holes/indicate where to print traces.
## When holes are available during the Alignment stage, always use them to align your board. NEVER use pads or traces unless you absolutely have to. Holes are much easier to align with.
# Printing Traces/Solder
## Be sure that the dispenser has been warming up to room temperature for at least 15 minutes so the ink can flow smoothly.
## If the ink does not seem come come out even when you're priming the dispenser, chances are that it is clogged. Remove the tip, notify a PCB Lab worker, and install a new tip (ask a worker if you don't know how).
==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
The PCB Printer has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after each use, including ink/solder residue and drilled material
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Replacing Sacrificial Layer
|When the existing layer is worn through and can potential damage the heating bed
|Ace
|
|-
|Replacing Nozzle
|When the nozzle is clogged
|Student or Ace
|
|-
|Refrigerating the Dispensers
|Whenever they are not in use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Switch Cleaning
|During Calibration stage using Isopropyl Alcohol and a giant Q-tip
|Student
|
|-
|Replacing ink/solder paste syringe
|Whenever out of ink/solder paste
|Ace
|
|-
|Labeling dispenser with lot name
|Whenever ink/solder paste is replaced
|Ace
|
|-
|Cleaning calibration switch linear hardware (Disassemble, clean, oil)
|Once yearly, or as required.
|Ace and Technician
|
|}

High Speed Camera

2021-07-22T18:35:58Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
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|Has image=File:Chronos.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Chronos 1.4
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1302
|Has make=Chronos
|Has model=CH14-1.0-32C
|Has serial number=00902
|Has ace=Matthew Martin;mmartin18@georgefox.edu

}}
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==Description==

The Cronos is a high speed camera that allows the recording of video with very high framerates, up to 1057FPS at 1280x1024, or 38,500FPS at decreased resolutions. At these high framerates, events that are too fast to be seen with the naked eye can be studied in detail. Video can be saved in RAW, CinemaDNG, or H.264 codecs.

Here is an example of this camera being used.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HBlYfezY2A}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

* FPS - Frames per second, also known as frame rate; a measure of how quickly the camera captures images. Standard frame rates are between 24 and 60FPS. The Cronos is capable of filming at up to 38,500FPS.
* Exposure - How long a frame of video is actually gathering light, given in seconds. This is called Shutter Speed on most consumer cameras.
* Analog Gain - Called ISO in consumer cameras, digitally controls the brightness of the image. More gain means a brighter image, but also more noise (manifests as grain, especially noticeable in dark areas of the image). For the best image quality, use a low gain and compensate by increasing the amount of light where you’re filming or open the aperture if the image is too dark.
* Aperture - Measures the diameter of the lens's iris, given in F-stops (F1.4, F2.8, F4, etc.). The lower the number, the larger the diameter of the iris (called a wider or more open aperture) and the more light that hits the sensor. A wider aperture also decreases the depth of field (how much is in focus at a time), making the background blurry. This is bad if you are trying to film a lot of things far away from each other, but good if you need lots of light and are only filming one thing.
* H.264 - A common video encoding standard used commonly in online video. Generally you want to pick this one.
* Focus Peaking - A feature that makes it easier to see what is in focus. Highlights edges that are in focus in a color (usually red).

[[File:Pasted image2.jpg|none|thumb|400x400px]]

* White Balance - Controls the color temperature of light the camera is filming, measured in degrees kelvin. (Seriously, color temperature was originally defined by the color of light a bar of lead glows with at a particular temperature) Incandescent lights are around 3200K, outdoor daylight is around 5900K, LED lighting is around 5600K. Generally just adjust this by eye. If the image appears too blue, increase the color temperature. If the image appears too orange, decrease the color temperature. If adjusted correctly, white objects in the image should appear, well… white.

[[File:Color Temp.jpg|none|thumb|400x400px]]

* Trigger - Tells the camera when to stop recording. High speed cameras are always recording, and only stop and save video when stopped.
* Ring buffer - The camera records frames in a “ring”, with each frame filling a new spot on the ring. When the ring is full, the next frame overwrites the first frame in the buffer. Each subsequent frame is also overwritten. This means you can start recording whenever you want, and the camera will only save the buffer when you press the trigger. By default, when you press the trigger it immediately stops recording. By going to the Trigger Delay menu, you can change it so the camera continues to record after you press the trigger (this does not work for the red record button).

[[File:Ring buffer.jpg|none|thumb|400x400px]]

User Manual
Chronos 1.4
[https://www.krontech.ca/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/Chronos-1.4-2.1-HD-User-Manual-Full-version-Software-Version-0.5.1.pdf User Manual]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Chronos 1.4 captures and saves high frame rate video, also known as high-speed or slow-motion. This can be used to study things that are too fast to be seen by the unaided eye.

====Demonstration====

Before using the camera, students will perform a short in-person training session after passing the Canvas quiz. General procedures and expectations for equipment care will be reviewed. Students should be familiar with the operation of the camera and be ready to demonstrate this by setting up and capturing some video following the General procedure below.

====General Procedure====

This section is meant to provide a brief overview of operating the Chronos 1.4. For a more detailed explanation of the camera, its features, and options/menus please consult the user’s manual.

To capture high speed video with the Chronos

1. Attach the camera to a tripod and turn the camera on. Give it a minute to warm up (especially if it’s cold)

2. Set your desired frame rate in the Record Settings menu based on how fast the thing you’re trying to film is.

3. Set Aperture (dial on the lens) and Gain (Record Settings menu) so the image is properly exposed (not too bright, not too dark)

4. Set White Balance in the “Set White Balance” menu. Either make an educated guess, or hold up a white object in front of the camera and press “Set Custom White Balance”.

5. Perform a black calibration. Place the lens cap on the lens and press the Black Cal button in the main menu. Ideally the camera should run for 15-20 minutes before performing a Black Cal to let the sensor get up to temperature. NOTE: Doing a Black Cal will discard any unsaved footage

6. Change your trigger settings if using an external trigger or want to set up trigger delay

7. Press the red record button to start recording. Make sure your image is properly exposed and that your subject is in focus. Anything in focus will be highlighted in red with focus peaking. NOTE: Pressing record will discard any unsaved footage

8. Trigger the camera when ready, the camera will stop recording or continue to record for a short period of time depending on your trigger settings. The camera can be triggered by using the red record button or external trigger. Note that trigger delay settings will not apply to the red record button.

9. The footage in memory will be shown on the screen. You can press and hold the right arrow to play the footage forward. Play rate should usually be set to 30fps.

10. To reduce file size, set start and end markers before saving. Do this by scrolling the playback slider (goes from bottom to top) to the start of the part you want to keep and press “Mark Start”, then scroll to the end of the part you want to keep and click “Mark End”. The portion that will be saved is highlighted in red next to the playback slider. Then click Save. Once saved, the red will turn to green, indicating that it is safe to capture footage again.

11.Make sure to safely eject your storage media before removing it from the camera. This can be done by going to the Play menu and clicking Settings, then “Safely Remove”

12. When finished using the camera, press the power button to turn off the camera. Do not hold the power button for more than 4 seconds. This will cause a forced shutdown, which could corrupt the camera’s internal memory. Only perform a forced shutdown if the camera becomes completely unresponsive to touchscreen input.

13. Return the camera to its case, nicely coil trigger and power cables and place those in the case as well.

==Safety==
There is almost nothing you could do that would result in injury from using the high speed camera. Obviously things you could be filming (e.g. explosions) could be dangerous, and you must use common sense in what you decide to place in front of the camera. In most every situation, the camera is at risk of damage more than you are. Always observe the following precautionary guidelines when using the camera.

*The camera should always be securely mounted or held so it is not at risk of falling/being knocked over
*If there’s risk of things flying and hitting the camera, it should be behind a shield
*Don’t set down or store the camera in an environment that could damage it. Examples include outdoors when raining, in direct sunlight, on rough surfaces, or in places where things could fall/knock against the camera
*Don’t put any stress on the lens, the mount is fragile
*If the lens is ever disconnected, the sensor cap must be immediately attached
*When not being used, the camera should be stored in its pelican case with latches secured. Latches should always be secured, even if you’re coming right back!

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1302 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
This table is from the User's manual. Depending on the severity of the problem and solution required, contact the Ace for assistance.

{| class="wikitable"
!Symptom
!Possible Problem
!Solution
|-
| rowspan="3" | Camera won’t turn on
| No power || Insert battery or connect to mains power using power adapter.
|-
| Crash || Remove battery and AC adapter for 10 seconds, then reconnect and power on.
|-
| AC Adapter voltage wrong || Ensure that AC adapter is providing between 17 and 20V DC, positive tip.
|-
| rowspan="2" | Battery won't charge
| Battery inserted after AC connected || Unplug AC adapter from camera then replug.
|-
| AC Adapter voltage wrong || Ensure that AC adapter is providing between 17 and 20V DC, positive tip.
|-
| Battery indicator drops very fast || Low quality or failing battery || Replace battery.
|-
| rowspan="2" | Power status indicator flashes red/green continuously
| Power controller in recovery mode || Turn camera off, then remove the battery and disconnect AC adapter for 10 seconds. When reconnecting power or inserting battery, ensure power button is not pressed until after the LED flashing stops.
|-
| Power controller firmware corrupt || If the above does not fix the problem, contact Kron Technologies for assistance. A power controller recovery update may need to be applied.
|-
| Horizontal or vertical lines show up in video || Black cal not done after changing shutter speed (especially at resolutions below 1280 pixels horizontal) || Perform black cal after every shutter speed or resolution change.
|-
| Extremely blurry image, can't get close to proper focus. Except possibly when lens zoomed in || Incorrect lens adapter installed || Check if lens is CS or C mount to determine proper adapter to use.
|-
| rowspan="2" | Focus slightly wrong, proper focus out of range
| Backfocus misadjusted || Readjust backfocus, see Backfocus Adjustment section in User Manual.
|-
| Lens limitation || The Computar 12.5-75mm lens as well as some others are slightly soft at fully wide aperture. Close aperture slightly and retry. Try f/2 or smaller.
|-
| rowspan="2" | Lens doesn't maintain consistent focus while zooming
| Backfocus misadjusted || Readjust backfocus, see Backfocus Adjustment section in User Manual.
|-
| Lens is not parfocal || Some lenses, especially lower end lenses such as the 6-60mm and 2.8- 12mm lenses, do not maintain focus during zoom, Focus needs to be adjusted after zooming.
|-
| Black ring around image || Lens too small for sensor || Some lenses (such as the 6-60mm and 2.8-12mm lenses) don't cover the full image sensor. The black ring around the outside is called Vignetting. Change to a different lens to eliminate.
|-
| Negative ghost image visible over normal image || Black cal done without lens cap on or with aperture open || Perform black cal again by closing aperture fully, or covering lens.
|}

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Everyone who uses the camera should make sure the camera body and lens are clean when finished. The camera should be cleaned using a clean, lint-free or microfiber cloth optionally with isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol on the cloth. Don’t use so much alcohol as to soak into the camera. The screen can be cleaned with a lint-free or microfiber cloth and a small amount of glass cleaner or isopropyl. Cleaners should not be sprayed directly on the camera, instead apply to the cloth.

The IR filter can be cleaned if it becomes very dirty. This should only be done by the ace or other qualified individual.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Cleaning Lens
|As needed
|Ace
|}

Gary's Favorite Robot Arm

2021-07-22T18:35:31Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=The Vault
|Is used in domain=
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:table_saw_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Table Saw icon
|Has iconwname=File:table_saw_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:table_saw.png
|Has imagedesc=SawStop Table Saw
|Has description=True
|Has make=SawStop
|Has model=PCS31230
|Has serial number=P171131184
|Has ace=Noah Burlingame;nburlingame18@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

==Training==
====Operation====

====Demonstration====

====General Procedure====

==Safety==

==Certification==

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Lubricate mechanisms
|Semester
|Sample
|-
|Clean machine interior
|Monthly
|Tech
|-
|Change the blade
|As Needed
|Tech
|}

Dimension 3D Printer

2021-07-22T18:34:33Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= None
|Is used in domain=None
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:dimension_printer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Dimension Icon
|Has iconwname=File:dimension_printer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:Dimension_printer_image.png
|Has imagedesc=The Dimension 1200 SST Printer
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has group=3D Printers
|Has make=Stratasys
|Has model=1200 SST
|Has ace=Joshua Consenz;jconsenz18@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|300px|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

The Dimension is an [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing Anchor|FDM]] printer made by Stratasys. It is designed with ultimate simplicity in mind. The system enables you to build parts quickly, even if you’ve never used a 3D printer before. Its display panel prompts you to press a few keys to get you modeling quickly.
The system models with ABS plastic, so modeled parts are strong and durable. ABS also ensures you’ll be able to drill, tap, sand, and paint your creations. With the speed and convenience of Breakaway Support Technology (BST) or Soluble Support Technology (SST), your completed parts are quickly available for review and test. SST allows for parts that are printed on the Dimension to have a more porous or odd geometry, such as overhangs, to be printed with relative ease in comparison with other filament based 3D printers.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

[https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/dimension-1200 Product Home Page]

[[Media:Dimension 1200es user guide.pdf|User Manual]]

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

'''GrabCAD Print'''
GrabCAD Print is the software that both the Dimension and [[F370 3D Printer|F370]] use, and allows you to easily orient and view the part you want to model. Both printers are web based, which allows you to start the print from the one of the lab's computers.

On Opening GrabCAD, make sure that you select the printer you want to use for the part you want to print, the volunteers in the lab can help you determine which printer would work best. The menu the the right of the image shows the printer options, make sure you select the correct printer, in this case it is the Dimension. After ensuring you have the software correctly set up, open your file and place it on the build plate, '''''Note: your file has to be in STL format to work with any printing software.''''' The build plate is correctly scaled to the actual build plate, so when sizing up or down you can check the size and placement of the print with the build plate. '''''Note: The following pictures show a single part being printed, during regular lab hours the Dimension is only started when the plate is mostly full to be printed overnight.'''''

[[File:Opening File(D).png|center|1000x1000px]]

After importing all parts resize and orient your parts based on what the final product needs to be accomplished, with no one dimension being larger than 11 inches. Orienting the part is crucial for the print as this will determine how much support material is used as well as the strength of the part. To reduce support material used, orient your part with the most amount of surface are in contact with the plate, and with as few features positioned above cavities in the part. For maximum strength, orient your part so that the layers are parallel with the direction that the anticipated force will be applied, printing the layers perpendicular to the force can cause the layers to peel away from one another if the force is strong enough. If you have a red error in the model, enter analysis mode and click repair as shown in the picture below.

[[File:Troubleshooting(D).png|center|1000x1000px]]

After correctly orienting and sizing the part, click '''Slice Preview''' to see how the Dimension will print your part, total layers, and path of the nozzle. Inspect your part to ensure that it will print correctly, and has a low chance of failing. You can watch an animation of your part being built, layer by layer, and do other analysis before printing. Click '''View Estimates''', found in green near the bottom right corner, to see an approximation of how long the print will take, and the amount of material used. Be sure that this information is recorded in the Job Log. Fix any potential problems that you may have seen, and when you are sure that the part is correctly oriented on the build plate. You may now click Print, locate on the bottom right of the screen. '''''Note: Very rarely will a single part be printed on the Dimension or F370, do not start a print without other parts unless cleared by the lab helper.'''''

[[File:Slice Preview(D).png|center|1000x1000px]]

'''Printing'''
Once the Job has been sent to the Dimension, the control panel will display the most recent job sent to it. Check that the amount of support and model material, indicated on the top most display, is sufficient for the print and when ready, press the button to the right of the display that says start model.[[File:Dimension Control Panel.jpg|center|677x677px]]

'''Finished Parts'''
Once your part is finished, the plate can be removed by moving the tabs downward, pulling the plate forward, and lifting to remove. The following pictures show that process.[[File:Finished Part.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Loosening Plate.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Sliding Plate Forward.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Plate is Removed.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Placing Plate.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Sliding Plate Foreward.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Locking Plate In.jpg|center|700x700px]]

'''Removing Support Material'''
After removing the plate from the Dimension remove your part from the build plate by using the scraping tool and running the tool along the build plate, as shown in the picture below, and hitting the support material. Continue this process until the part is chipped off of the build plate. Once the part is removed, place in the [[Dissolvable Support Bath]] to remove any left over support material.[[File:Chipping at Support Material.jpg|center|754x754px]]

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Canvas Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

====Changing Material====
''*Only volunteers will change out materials. If the Dimension runs out of filament or you would like to use a different color, please speak to a lab volunteer.*''

The Dimension has two separate types of material, Model and Support. These two filaments are located on the front of the Dimension, with the Model in the top slot, and the support on the bottom. To change material for either modeling or support, click the button next to the display that says "Material . . ." and then click "Unload" from there. Select which filament you want to exchange, and then press in on that cartridge to remove it. The cartridge will click out, and you can now reel in the material as the Dimension removes it by spinning a wheel on the right hand side.

To load a material is very similar. Select the filament you want to replace, and insert the tip into a hole located in the slot. The Dimension will grab the filament and pull it up to the extruder nozzle. Place the cartridge back into the Dimension, and push it forwards until you hear a click.
[[Category:Prototyping Lab]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Dissolvable Support Bath

2021-07-22T18:33:55Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:image_pending.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Basic Bath.jpg
|Has imagedesc=This is a Dissolving Support Bath.
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has group=
|Has make=Support Cleaning Apparatus
|Has model=1200HT
|Has serial number=8121546
|Has ace=Kyler Howard;khoward19@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: Kyler Howard (khoward19@georgefox.edu).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

The Dissolvable Support Bath is a 1200 HT Support Cleaning Apparatus. It is used in conjunction with both Stratasys [[F370 3D Printer|F370]] 3D printers. Since these printers use QRS support material, the support can be dissolved in a heated, agitated, diluted solution of Sodium Hydroxide. Sodium Hydroxide can be dangerous when handled incorrectly, therefore there are various safety procedures associated with the use of the Dissolvable Support Bath. Below is a video of an alcohol dissolvable support bath which is not as toxic but functions the same.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gonTiHbIRGg}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

*MSDS - Material Safety Data Sheet

====User Manual====
[https://data2.manualslib.com/pdf7/151/15091/1509040-padt/sca_1200_ht.pdf?8d7798a1a8125905a330475574a3ad86 User Manual] for the SCA 1200 HT Circulating Bath.

==Training==
====Operation====
Using the Dissolvable support bath is very simple. During the busy times of the semester, the bath will be left on but if it is not on then turn it on using the control panel. Next, wait for the bath to heat up completely and then place your part in it using appropriate safety attire. It may be helpful to place the part in a mesh bag, remove the basket from the bath, and tie the bag to the bottom of the basket to keep the part completely submerged. Periodically check the part until all support has been dissolved. Always wear safety equipment when opening the bath. The bath is only to be used for ABS models with QSR dissolvable support. PLA placed into the bath will become brittle and break apart, ruining the prints.

====Demonstration====

Use the correct safety procedures to place a printed part in the bath.

====General Procedure====

#ALWAYS USE SAFETY ATTIRE (see safety for requirements).

#Flip the rocker switch on the bottom right to turn the bath on.
#Select the temperature that correlates to your print material (70 degrees for ABS) and press the power button to begin the heating process.
#Keep the lid shut as often as possible.
#Place the part inside of a mesh bag, tie the strings of the mesh bag to the side handles, allow the part to soak in the bath for several hours.
#*Mesh bags are located in the small drawer next to the sink.

''When removing parts:''

#When the soaking step is completed, the basket can be lifted out and removed so that parts can be sifted through in the air instead of the solution. If you do remove basket, remove the lid first and place it in the sink. Next, lift the basket, let it drain above the bath so that it drips into the bath, then once it is barley dripping, the basket can be transferred to the sink.
#Wash the mesh bag and part thoroughly. Use paper towels to dry the part and let the part sit on paper towels and drain for a couple hours. Always inform the part's creator to wash their hands after handling the part and before eating or touching their eyes/face.
#Replace the basket and lid.

==Safety==

*Only Prototype Lab Mentors are allowed to use the Bath for safety concerns.
*Required safety attire is a lab coat, safety goggles, and heat/chemical protecting gloves.
*Only the Ace of the Bath and the Aces of the Prototype Lab (and Justin) are allowed to drain the tank and replenish it with a new solution of EcoWorks cleaning agent.
*Wash your hands after using the bath and after touching parts that have been removed from the bath within the past 24 hours.
*All parts that come out of the bath should be washed and left to dry/drain excess fluid for at least an hour.
*All spills should be immediately reported to Justin and the Aces of the Prototype Lab.
*Follow the MSDS procedure in the event of getting Sodium Hydroxide on your skin, in your eyes, or if you ingest it.
*The MSDS is located next to the sink in a bright yellow binder hanging on the wall. It includes the fluids the Prototype Lab uses that could be dangerous when humans are exposed to them. The MSDS also details what to do if the fluid is ingested, gets in your eyes or on your skin, and other pertinent information.

==Certification==

This Quiz is a part of the F370 Quiz on Canvas.

==Troubleshooting==

*'''What to do if the bath is beeping:'''
**This typically means the bath is low on water (see page 17 of the user manual).
**Take the clear bucket under the sink and use it to fill the bath until the fluid level inside is about 0.5" below the max fill line.
**Tell the Bath Ace if you think the solution should be switched, do not do it yourself.
**The bath may be sending out an error message in which case the Instruction Manual should be consulted.
*'''What to do if the bath appears to be leaking:'''
**Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab and/or Justin.
*'''What to do in the event of a spill:'''
**Evacuate the lab and shut it down until the spill has been properly cleaned.
**Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab; if unavailable and the spill is large then contact Security.
**Use the spill kit.
***Follow instructions inside the kit.
***Make sure you are wearing safety attire.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Like many machines in the Maker Hub, the bath must be periodically wiped down to keep it clean and working properly. This also removes spots created by the Sodium Hydroxide. Also, there is a limit to how much support material can be dissolved and once it has been reached the tank must be emptied and refilled with new Sodium Hydroxide solution.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Done
|-
|1
|Wipe down the machine
|As neeeded
|Lab Volunteer
|N/A
|-
|2
|Change the Bath Solution
|When the bath starts taking a very long time to dissolve support material
|Lab Volunteer
|1/23/20
|-
|3
|Refill Sodium Hydroxide Bottles
|If there is only one full bottle remaining
|Lab Volunteer
|}2. '''How to change the solution in the bath:'''

*Wear safety attire during the entire process.
*Retrieve a barrel to drain the fluid into.
*Remove the blue silicone cap.
*Align the barrel opening to be underneath the drain spout.
*Open the ball valve so the fluid begins to drain.
*Completely drain all of the fluid.
*''Clean the inside of the tank'':
**Use water to rinse out the inside of the tank then use paper towels to wipe out the gunk.
**Be sure to also clean the basket thoroughly.
**Replace the basket.
*Fill the bath up with water (use the clear bucket under the sink, fill this with water from the sink, pour the water into the bath) until the water level reaches about 0.5" below the max fill line
*Gather 6 packages of EcoWorks (1 package consists of part A and part B).
*Inside each package the powder is in dissoluble bags, gently place all bags from the 6 packages into the water.
*Turn the bath on and allow it to heat up to 70 degrees Celsius.

3. '''How to fill new Sodium Hydroxide bottles:'''

*Wear a lab coat, nitrile gloves, and safety goggles. This is very important. The granule Sodium Hydroxide (undiluted--undissolved) is much more dangerous.
*There should be a mini funnel in the lab somewhere (it tends to move around some). Use the large Sodium Hydroxide bottle and mini funnel to refill the small bottles to the same level as the last remaining bottle. Always leave one bottle filled as a gauge for where to refill to. If a bottle has not been left filled, then fill the small bottle to about 1.5 inches below where the narrowing of the bottle begins.

Dust Collector

2021-07-22T18:33:37Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:image_pending.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Small Dust Collector Image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Small Dust Collector
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has second image=File:Large Dust Collector Image.jpg
|Has secondimagedesc=Large Dust Collector
|Has make=Laguna / JET Equipment & Tools
|Has model=Pflux:3 / DC-1100-A
|Has serial number=172437 / 40512324

}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|110px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has second image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1|{{#show:{{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has secondimagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

Breathing wood dust is not good for your health. The 1hp dust collector, 3hp dust collector, two overhead air filters, shop vac, and various brooms/dustpans serve to do more than just clean up messes; they keep sawdust out of the air which can cause respiratory issues and other health problems over time. Always connect a dust collector when using equipment in the woodshop. Some of the power tools can be connected to the shop vac. Especially when sanding or using the CNC router, turn on the overhead air filters to catch the really fine dust particles. Notify a shop supervisor if you see that the dust collector has filled up, the overhead air filter indicator dial is in the red, or the shop vac seems full. Both of the dust collectors have sight windows in the collection bags so you know when the bag is getting full. If you notice a collection bag is getting full let the supervisor know. It's important to keep these devices running optimally to maintain good air quality in the shop.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sGoL6Q1vaKw}}
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0NmMoIYIsr8}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

[[File:0J6A0216.jpg|500px|thumb|right]]

To turn on the overhead air filters, point and press "ON" with either of the white remote controls in the image to the right. Use the black remote control to turn on the large Laguna P-Flux dust collector. These remote controls live on the cabinet between the CNC router control station and the wood lathe.

[http://go.rockler.com/tech/RTD10000185AA.pdf User Manual Small Dust Collector]

[http://go.rockler.com/tech/laguna-p-flux-manual.pdf User Manual Large Dust Collector]

==Training==
====Operation====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

Insert text

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

No real certification for the dust collectors. The necessary information is covered in the top-level Wood Shop Canvas Quiz.

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

3 commandments

2021-07-22T18:33:12Z

Cpainter17:

In any public space, there has to be some set of rules that govern the activity in the space. Ideally, we would just use the clever “Rule 0: Don’t make me make a rule.” But, we felt it was better to come up with some overall guiding principles rather than a list of rules. Clearly, there are some obvious “rules” that get implied from these principles, but, we believe that if you embrace the principles, the rules will take care of themselves. These principles we like to call, the three commandments.

(See what we did there? - Christian school - reference to the commandments? Get it?)

The three commandments are the following:
# Safety First
# Reset the Space
# Be Professional.

[[File:3 Commandments.png|1079x1079px]]

These icons that represent these commandments will be visible at various points in the Maker Hub as well as Maker Hub documents and training materials. Get used to them. We resisted the urge to place them inside of something like this :)

[[File:commandment_tablet.png|150x150px]]

What do the commandments mean?

==Safety First==
This should be the most obvious, and critical of the commandments. The Maker Hub has a large number of machines and tools that can be quite dangerous. It is imperative that in everything you do, you address safety first. This starts with general behavior (don’t run with scissors - in fact, don’t run at all - unless there is a fire - and you can see now why we are going with principles rather than specific rules). But beyond general behavior, various rooms and machines have very specific safety procedures and violations of these procedures will come with swift and potentially severe penalties.

Safety first includes not only your safety and the safety of others, but the safety of the equipment as well. It is a huge privilege to have access to this set of equipment and tools, and we need to ensure that the equipment is being properly used and maintained. There is no reason in this space to use a screwdriver as a hammer. We have hammers. Use tools for their intended purposes, not just for your safety, but for the safety of the tool.

To aid in making sure that you are aware of proper safety usage, you will need to be trained on how to use the vast majority of machines and spaces. In the future, these will be marked with unique icons representing each machine. Any machine or tool that has an icon posted over it or an icon sticker on it, by definition, requires specialized training. This will be done via a Canvas course for each of these machines or tools. If the system is relatively simple, the course might just be basic reading with a simple quiz (like this one). More complex tools might involve demonstration videos along with a live demonstration of your ability to properly use the machines. These will result in “badges” in Canvas that certify you to use the machines. Think of these certifications as a “license to learn.” They allow you to utilize the machine, but you should still feel free to ask for help, at any point, from a shop supervisor or technician. Just about every piece of equipment other than basic tools will have an icon and a basic training course. While these courses are being developed, we will be utilizing prior training protocols to grant you access to the machines.

While all of this is being developed, never forget … '''SAFETY FIRST'''!

==Reset the Space==
This commandment is simple enough to understand, but sometimes difficult for … let’s just say it … people … to implement. The idea is very simple. Put things back. Leave the space better than you found it. This is not hard. There is a place for everything and everything has a place. Over this next semester you will see things getting marked - already there are marks on the floor in the Hub for the tables. There will be more marks and labels going up on all sorts of things. These are just there to help remind you. This rule applies to EVERYTHING in the space. If you move a chair, put it back. If you move a table, put it back. If you use a tool, put it back. If you use a rolling computer - put it back. That means you don’t take things from one room and leave them in another. You see, that would not be “putting it back.” You see where I am going with this? If you use a machine in the shop, put the tools away. Use the vacuum to clean up. Make the space look better than you found it. If you want a marker for a whiteboard in the space, go request one from the tool room. They are free for usage in the space. Do not take them from other rooms. Do not take erasers from other rooms. If you use a whiteboard, erase it. I could go on. Sort of want to. But I will contain myself. Ok … a few more …

We have allowed food and drink in the space. Resetting the Space means that you don’t leave wrappers, or trays, or anything that wasn’t there when you came in.

If you are in a class in some area of the space, take your papers with you.

If you are employed in the space, this still applies to you. Do not take tools from the Hub and then store them in whatever area you happen to be working. If we need more tools in your area, speak with the technician and we can evaluate the situation and, if necessary, we will get more tools.

Now, we understand that sometimes you need to leave things out. Maybe you are in the middle of a large test and you need something to run overnight. In cases like this, it is OK, but you NEED to leave a note on your system so that others know the situation. This is just common courtesy.

There will be more detail on this in each area, but for now, you should understand the idea. Whatever you do, '''RESET THE SPACE'''!

==Be Professional==
This commandment has two sides to it. It covers the idea of acting like professional (which Webster’s defines as “exhibiting a courteous, conscientious, and generally businesslike manner in the workplace”). The term also describes the standards of education and training that prepare members of the profession with the particular knowledge and skills necessary to perform their specific role within that profession. Hopefully, you are learning both of these as part of your education at George Fox University. In the Maker Hub we expect you to develop as a courteous, conscientious, and skilled craftsman, understanding the tools and equipment in the Maker Hub and how to use them effectively.

Being a professional has some obvious ramifications in terms of behavior. First, be Christlike. Think of others better than yourselves. Share. If you are using a meeting room to do individual work, and a team needs a meeting room, then you should yield the room. Function is more important than who got there first. This is being a professional.

If you are working with a tool or piece of equipment, and you don’t know the proper way to do what you are attempting - ASK SOMEONE! Learn! Become a professional. Learn the craft. This is an educational space. You might think it will be quick and you can just get it done “your” way and not learn how to do it correctly. Be a Professional and learn the proper way, and then be available to teach others.

One very important, and likely difficult part of being a professional is to correct others when they are not being professional. It is your responsibility to speak up when you see somebody doing something inappropriate. If you see somebody doing something unsafe, not resetting the space, or being unprofessional, the professional thing to do is to remind them of the three commandments and ask them politely to correct their action. This is OUR space, not any individuals. As a group, we expect everyone in the space to keep the space safe, clean, and operable for everyone. '''BE PROFESSIONAL'''!

==Final Thoughts==
These are the three commandments - and they form the rule and order for the Maker Hub. There are similarities to the rule and order in Christianity. As G.K. Chesterton said in his classic book “Orthodoxy,”

''the more I considered Christianity, the more I found that while it had established a rule and order, the chief aim of that order was to give room for good things to run wild.''

It is our hope and expectation that you and other students will be able to run wild and create many wonderful things in this space. These “commandments” are intended to provide that space - and the expectation is that everyone will abide by them. But, as we know, not everyone chooses to do so (1 Tim 1:9-10). We have seen various ways that different schools address these violations, and most use expulsion from the space as the primary penalty. Some schools use a point system where violations are assigned points and the accumulation of a certain number of points results in expulsion (much like points on a driver’s license). Our system is purposely ill-defined, but does exist. Some violations (not putting a chair back after moving it) might be comparatively minor, while others are extremely severe. An example of an extremely severe violation would be unauthorized use of machines in the machine or wood shop, or even authorized use of a machine without anyone else present. These violations would most likely result in immediate and extended to permanent expulsion from the shops or Maker Hub.

Heavy Duty Sewing Machine

2021-07-22T18:32:26Z

Cpainter17: /* Certification */

{{#set:
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Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

We currently do not have a heavy duty sewing machine. This is a place holder for the future.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

User Manual

==Training==
====Operation====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

Insert text

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Canvas Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
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Getting Started

2021-07-22T18:30:58Z

Cpainter17: /* Training */

[[File:Few Word.png|500px|right]]

Reading is hard... but somehow, we need to put the necessary training information into your brain so that you stay safe and don't break stuff while using equipment in the Maker Hub. I'll try to convey all of this in as few words as possible (humor aside).

====How We Operate====

The Maker Hub has a limited number of staff and student employees. It is largely run by student staff and volunteers who help with training and overseeing various technical shops. Our students are encouraged to "own" the space. In any public space, there has to be some set of rules that govern the activity in the space. Ideally, we would just use the clever “Rule 0: Don’t make me make a rule.” But, we felt it was better to come up with some overall guiding principles rather than a list of rules. Clearly, there are some obvious “rules” that get implied from these principles, but, we believe that if you embrace the principles, the rules will take care of themselves. These principles we like to call, the [[3 commandments]]: '''Safety First''', '''Reset the Space''', '''Be Professional'''. Please explore the [[3 commandments]] page for a deeper explanation. Many of these Wiki pages will have their own "3 commandments" section to cover unique details for equipment and tools.

There is a 6,000 square foot central room known simply as "[[The Hub]]" which provides a large work area with benches and tools for general making activities.

To successfully complete the Maker Hub Introduction Canvas quiz, you will need information from this page, [[The Hub]], and [[3 commandments]]. Find the link to the Maker Hub Introduction Canvas quiz [[{{PAGENAME}}#Certification|here]].

__TOC__

==Certification==
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1247 Maker Hub Introduction Canvas Quiz]

==Training==
How does our training system work? Take a look at the fancy graph below. Every node on the graph has a corresponding Canvas quiz (unless it is labelled with (No Quiz)). The middle column contains all of the facilities within the Maker Hub; most facilities have a corresponding Canvas Quiz. The right column contains each piece of equipment within the Maker Hub... and you guessed it; each piece of equipment has its respective quiz. The graph follows a sequential process of completing quizzes from left to right. For example, if I wanted to get certified on the Milling Machine, I would need to take the [[Getting Started | Maker Hub Intro quiz]], then the [[Machine Shop]] quiz, then the [[Milling Machine]] quiz. All of the information I would need to pass these 3 quizzes can be found at the respective links given. After that, let's say that I also wanted to get certified on the Sewing Machine. Well, I've already passed the Maker Hub Intro quiz, and there's no quiz for The Hub... so I only need to pass the [[Sewing Machine]] quiz. So on and so forth. Keep in mind that all Canvas quizzes are reset at the beginning of the summer, so you will need to retake all your quizzes in the fall (but all demonstrations carry over). This is intentional to refresh your knowledge of how to operate each machine once a year.

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{ "name": "Sewing Machine" },
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===Facilities with Canvas Quizzes===
Links to the Wiki pages on the left. Links to the Canvas Quizzes on the right. This is not a comprehensive list of our facilities. See our [[facilities]] page for the full list.
{{#ask:
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===Equipment===
Links to the Wiki pages on the left. Links to the Canvas Quizzes on the right. See our [[Equipment]] page for a more detailed presentation of the equipment available in the Maker Hub.
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===TVs (Training Ventures)===
{{#ask:
[[Is tv::True]]
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==[[Equipment]]==
In general, [[Equipment|equipment]] refers to larger machines than those things one might refer to as a "tool." However, in the Maker Hub, [[Equipment|equipment]] is a special category of machines because, by definitions, ''every'' piece of equipment requires certified training before an individual is allowed to use it. Information on how to achieve this training is provided on the Wiki page for each piece of [[Equipment|equipment]].
[[Equipment]] is marked in the Maker Hub by the use of special icons that are displayed either on, around, or above the equipment. An example icon is this one used for the [[Horizontal Bandsaw]].

[[File:horizontal_bandsaw_icon.png|100x100px]]

The Maker Hub [[Equipment|equipment]] is located in the various [[Facilities|facilities]] and covers various "domains" of activity, from wood, metal, and plastic to electronics, cloths, and crafts. Use the links below to find [[Equipment|equipment]] for each domain.

{{#ask: [[Is domain::True]]
|format=ul
}}

==Staff==
Curious to know who is in charge of what machine? Check out the list of [[Aces]].

==[[Tools]]==
[[Tools]] (both hand tools and power tools) are stored at various locations in the Maker Hub. Tools do not require certified training before use, but users are expected to familiarize themselves with tool operation by viewing the appropriate Wiki page. Furthermore, as part of the '''Safety First'' commandment, users are encouraged to seek help and instruction for any tool that they feel uncomfortable using. Volunteers will be available to serve these needs.

==[[Supplies]]==
[[Supplies]] include everything from special tooling to parts and materials. Most [[Supplies|supplies]] are kept either in the [[Tool Room]], or generally co-located with the equipment that they service. However, they can also be found at various locations throughout the Maker Hub such as the low-fidelity prototyping station.

==[[Software]]==
A variety of engineering software is available. The use of some software may require the FortiClient VPN when not on George Fox wifi. [[Computer Lab Software]] [[Computers on Wheels Software]]

{{#ask: [[Is location::True]]
|format=ul
}}

==[[Maker Hub Wiki]]==
Go to the [[Maker Hub Wiki]] page for information on the structure of this Wiki and how to appropriately edit this Wiki. Also, try out the [[Sandbox]] for editing practice. There is also a [https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0ADy2qTefCbcqUk9PVA special google drive] for Maker Hub Crew.

[[File:Fearless Leader.jpg|thumb]]

Getting Started

2021-07-22T18:30:34Z

Cpainter17:

[[File:Few Word.png|500px|right]]

Reading is hard... but somehow, we need to put the necessary training information into your brain so that you stay safe and don't break stuff while using equipment in the Maker Hub. I'll try to convey all of this in as few words as possible (humor aside).

====How We Operate====

The Maker Hub has a limited number of staff and student employees. It is largely run by student staff and volunteers who help with training and overseeing various technical shops. Our students are encouraged to "own" the space. In any public space, there has to be some set of rules that govern the activity in the space. Ideally, we would just use the clever “Rule 0: Don’t make me make a rule.” But, we felt it was better to come up with some overall guiding principles rather than a list of rules. Clearly, there are some obvious “rules” that get implied from these principles, but, we believe that if you embrace the principles, the rules will take care of themselves. These principles we like to call, the [[3 commandments]]: '''Safety First''', '''Reset the Space''', '''Be Professional'''. Please explore the [[3 commandments]] page for a deeper explanation. Many of these Wiki pages will have their own "3 commandments" section to cover unique details for equipment and tools.

There is a 6,000 square foot central room known simply as "[[The Hub]]" which provides a large work area with benches and tools for general making activities.

To successfully complete the Maker Hub Introduction Canvas quiz, you will need information from this page, [[The Hub]], and [[3 commandments]]. Find the link to the Maker Hub Introduction Canvas quiz [[{{PAGENAME}}#Certification|here]].

__TOC__

==Certification==
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1247 Maker Hub Introduction Canvas Quiz]

==Training==
How does our training system work? Take a look at the fancy graph below. Every node on the graph has a corresponding Canvas quiz (unless it is labelled with (No Quiz)). The middle column contains all of the facilities within the Maker Hub; most facilities have a corresponding Foxtalke Quiz. The right column contains each piece of equipment within the Maker Hub... and you guessed it; each piece of equipment has its respective quiz. The graph follows a sequential process of completing quizzes from left to right. For example, if I wanted to get certified on the Milling Machine, I would need to take the [[Getting Started | Maker Hub Intro quiz]], then the [[Machine Shop]] quiz, then the [[Milling Machine]] quiz. All of the information I would need to pass these 3 quizzes can be found at the respective links given. After that, let's say that I also wanted to get certified on the Sewing Machine. Well, I've already passed the Maker Hub Intro quiz, and there's no quiz for The Hub... so I only need to pass the [[Sewing Machine]] quiz. So on and so forth. Keep in mind that all Canvas quizzes are reset at the beginning of the summer, so you will need to retake all your quizzes in the fall (but all demonstrations carry over). This is intentional to refresh your knowledge of how to operate each machine once a year.

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{ "name": "Sewing Machine" },
{ "name": "Sublimation Printer" },
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{ "name": "Vinyl Printer+Cutter" },
{ "name": "Electronics Workstation" },
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{ "name": "TIG Welder" },
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{ "name": "Belt/Disc Sander" },
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{ "name": "Handheld CNC Router" },
{ "name": "Jointer" },
{ "name": "Oscillating Spindle Sander" },
{ "name": "Planer" },
{ "name": "Power Carver" },
{ "name": "Scroll Saw" },
{ "name": "Table Saw" },
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===Facilities with Canvas Quizzes===
Links to the Wiki pages on the left. Links to the Canvas Quizzes on the right. This is not a comprehensive list of our facilities. See our [[facilities]] page for the full list.
{{#ask:
[[Is facility::True]]
[[Has certification::+]]
|?Has certification=Link to the Canvas Quiz
|format=broadtable
|headers=plain
}}

===Equipment===
Links to the Wiki pages on the left. Links to the Canvas Quizzes on the right. See our [[Equipment]] page for a more detailed presentation of the equipment available in the Maker Hub.
{{#ask:
[[Is equipment::True]]
[[Has certification::+]]
|?Has certification=Link to the Canvas Quiz
|format=broadtable
|limit=250
|headers=plain
}}

===TVs (Training Ventures)===
{{#ask:
[[Is tv::True]]
}}


==[[Equipment]]==
In general, [[Equipment|equipment]] refers to larger machines than those things one might refer to as a "tool." However, in the Maker Hub, [[Equipment|equipment]] is a special category of machines because, by definitions, ''every'' piece of equipment requires certified training before an individual is allowed to use it. Information on how to achieve this training is provided on the Wiki page for each piece of [[Equipment|equipment]].
[[Equipment]] is marked in the Maker Hub by the use of special icons that are displayed either on, around, or above the equipment. An example icon is this one used for the [[Horizontal Bandsaw]].

[[File:horizontal_bandsaw_icon.png|100x100px]]

The Maker Hub [[Equipment|equipment]] is located in the various [[Facilities|facilities]] and covers various "domains" of activity, from wood, metal, and plastic to electronics, cloths, and crafts. Use the links below to find [[Equipment|equipment]] for each domain.

{{#ask: [[Is domain::True]]
|format=ul
}}

==Staff==
Curious to know who is in charge of what machine? Check out the list of [[Aces]].

==[[Tools]]==
[[Tools]] (both hand tools and power tools) are stored at various locations in the Maker Hub. Tools do not require certified training before use, but users are expected to familiarize themselves with tool operation by viewing the appropriate Wiki page. Furthermore, as part of the '''Safety First'' commandment, users are encouraged to seek help and instruction for any tool that they feel uncomfortable using. Volunteers will be available to serve these needs.

==[[Supplies]]==
[[Supplies]] include everything from special tooling to parts and materials. Most [[Supplies|supplies]] are kept either in the [[Tool Room]], or generally co-located with the equipment that they service. However, they can also be found at various locations throughout the Maker Hub such as the low-fidelity prototyping station.

==[[Software]]==
A variety of engineering software is available. The use of some software may require the FortiClient VPN when not on George Fox wifi. [[Computer Lab Software]] [[Computers on Wheels Software]]

{{#ask: [[Is location::True]]
|format=ul
}}

==[[Maker Hub Wiki]]==
Go to the [[Maker Hub Wiki]] page for information on the structure of this Wiki and how to appropriately edit this Wiki. Also, try out the [[Sandbox]] for editing practice. There is also a [https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0ADy2qTefCbcqUk9PVA special google drive] for Maker Hub Crew.

[[File:Fearless Leader.jpg|thumb]]

Computer Lab

2021-07-22T18:27:38Z

Cpainter17:

[[File:Computer Lab.jpg|400px|thumb|right]]

[[File:Lockers.png|400px|thumb|right|Lockers available for student use]]

=Equipment=
{{#ask:
[[Is equipment::True]]
[[Is located in facility::Computer Lab]]
|format=Category
}}

==[[3 commandments]]==

The computer lab consists of 29 computers (designed as 28 for students and 1 for instructors). Each of these stations consists of the computer, the keyboard, the mouse, and a chair with arms. These are a unit. Which should make it clear that you should never take a keyboard, a mouse, or a chair from this space. There are no chairs with arms in the Maker Hub or meeting rooms. So please, leave them in there. The keyboards and mice are intended for these computers. If you need a keyboard or a computer for your machine, or if one is broken somewhere, inform the toolroom. If there is a dire situation where you need to make use of one of these systems, as always, '''RESET THE SPACE'''. It is not acceptable for your peers to arrive in a class the following morning with computers that are missing mice or chairs.

There are large whiteboards in the computer lab that are very useful for … er … marking on. And here are some good rules for whiteboards - again - '''RESET THE SPACE'''. This means that you don’t take markers or erasers from other whiteboards because the ones at your space are missing or not functional. Go to the toolroom and get new ones. They are freely supplied. If the toolroom is closed, maybe you can use your own markers. Whatever you do, '''RESET THE SPACE'''. And when you have finished using a whiteboard .. '''ERASE IT'''. This is not only resetting the space, but being a professional. Others will want to use it and you are making them clean up your mess. As a side note, this is a public space. If you want to save your whiteboard writing, take a picture. Writing “Do Not Erase” is not an acceptable action for a whiteboard. You can save it yourself and reproduce it quickly later. Again, '''BE PROFESSIONAL'''.

While cleaning up after yourself is a general rule, it is particularly important in the computer lab as folks are very likely to spend a considerable amount of time in there. This means you need to be sure to clean up any papers, food, and drink. If you are in a class or lab and receive a handout, it is your job to study it like your wonderful professor intended. But if you are not going to do that, it is your responsibility to throw it away. Leave the space better than you found it.

There is a set of 72 small lockers in this room. Their main function is to hold materials for classes and labs for students in those classes and labs. If they are not all in use (and they generally aren’t), they can also be used to house small projects. They are not to be used as personal lockers for non Maker Hub related items. Now clearly, If you are using a locker for Maker Hub reasons, then it is certainly fine to place a textbook or engagement ring in there (preferably in the spring). But don’t secure a locker if you are not actively working on a project or participating in a class/lab. To use the lockers, you will need your own lock. At the end of each semester, the lockers should be cleared out and the locks removed. If there are still locks on them, this will give us a chance to use the bolt cutters and sell the contents on the web. That is always a good time. If you need to maintain a locker over the break, you will need to coordinate with the technician. Please do not set things on top of the lockers. These items will be routinely disposed of without warning. Clearly, setting something on top would not be resetting the space, and hopefully you are discovering that this is an important commandment.

{{#set:
| is facility = True
}}

Computer Lab

2021-07-22T18:27:22Z

Cpainter17:

[[File:Computer Lab.jpg|400px|thumb|right]]

[[File:Lockers.png|400px|thumb|left|Lockers available for student use]]

=Equipment=
{{#ask:
[[Is equipment::True]]
[[Is located in facility::Computer Lab]]
|format=Category
}}

==[[3 commandments]]==

The computer lab consists of 29 computers (designed as 28 for students and 1 for instructors). Each of these stations consists of the computer, the keyboard, the mouse, and a chair with arms. These are a unit. Which should make it clear that you should never take a keyboard, a mouse, or a chair from this space. There are no chairs with arms in the Maker Hub or meeting rooms. So please, leave them in there. The keyboards and mice are intended for these computers. If you need a keyboard or a computer for your machine, or if one is broken somewhere, inform the toolroom. If there is a dire situation where you need to make use of one of these systems, as always, '''RESET THE SPACE'''. It is not acceptable for your peers to arrive in a class the following morning with computers that are missing mice or chairs.

There are large whiteboards in the computer lab that are very useful for … er … marking on. And here are some good rules for whiteboards - again - '''RESET THE SPACE'''. This means that you don’t take markers or erasers from other whiteboards because the ones at your space are missing or not functional. Go to the toolroom and get new ones. They are freely supplied. If the toolroom is closed, maybe you can use your own markers. Whatever you do, '''RESET THE SPACE'''. And when you have finished using a whiteboard .. '''ERASE IT'''. This is not only resetting the space, but being a professional. Others will want to use it and you are making them clean up your mess. As a side note, this is a public space. If you want to save your whiteboard writing, take a picture. Writing “Do Not Erase” is not an acceptable action for a whiteboard. You can save it yourself and reproduce it quickly later. Again, '''BE PROFESSIONAL'''.

While cleaning up after yourself is a general rule, it is particularly important in the computer lab as folks are very likely to spend a considerable amount of time in there. This means you need to be sure to clean up any papers, food, and drink. If you are in a class or lab and receive a handout, it is your job to study it like your wonderful professor intended. But if you are not going to do that, it is your responsibility to throw it away. Leave the space better than you found it.

There is a set of 72 small lockers in this room. Their main function is to hold materials for classes and labs for students in those classes and labs. If they are not all in use (and they generally aren’t), they can also be used to house small projects. They are not to be used as personal lockers for non Maker Hub related items. Now clearly, If you are using a locker for Maker Hub reasons, then it is certainly fine to place a textbook or engagement ring in there (preferably in the spring). But don’t secure a locker if you are not actively working on a project or participating in a class/lab. To use the lockers, you will need your own lock. At the end of each semester, the lockers should be cleared out and the locks removed. If there are still locks on them, this will give us a chance to use the bolt cutters and sell the contents on the web. That is always a good time. If you need to maintain a locker over the break, you will need to coordinate with the technician. Please do not set things on top of the lockers. These items will be routinely disposed of without warning. Clearly, setting something on top would not be resetting the space, and hopefully you are discovering that this is an important commandment.

{{#set:
| is facility = True
}}

File:Lockers.png

2021-07-22T18:27:00Z

Cpainter17:

lockers

Tool Room

2021-07-22T18:23:38Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
|Is facility=True
|Has ace=Jenny Duran; jduran19@georgefox.edu
}}
[[File:Tool Room.jpg|400px|thumb|right|The Tool Room]]
The Tool Room is a sectioned-off part of [[The Vault]] that offers [[{{PAGENAME}}#List of Tools Available|various tools and electronic equipment]] to students/employees for check out similar to a library system. The Tool Room is only open during certain hours, so please view the [[{{PAGENAME}}#Schedule|Schedule]] below.

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 

__TOC__

=Schedule=
View the most up-to-date {{PAGENAME}} schedule [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1u2qyTXccA69-UAL_QHYwMEETbr8EZ4dxofxKxsK1pfE/edit?usp=sharing on this Google Sheet.]

=List of Tools Available=
{{#ask:
[[Is tool::True]]
|?Has name=Tool Name
|?Has imagedesc=Image
|?Has description=Description
|mainlabel=-
|format=sortable table
|sort=Has name
|headers=plain
}}

==Tools by Icon==
{{#ask:
[[Is tool::True]][[Has icon::+]]
|?Has icon=Icon
|?Is located in facility
|format=plainlist
|template=EquipmentIconGallery
|outrotemplate=EquipmentIconGalleryOutro
|limit=200
|link=none
|sort=Is located in facility
}}

==Canvas Certification==
The Tool room is normally off limits to students. There is no Canvas certification for the Tool Room.

Welding Shop

2021-07-22T18:22:27Z

Cpainter17:

The Welding Lab has multiple welders including a TIG, MIG and Plasma cutter. The welding shop consists of a 280 sq. ft room. It contains a Welding Table, MIG Welder, TIG Welder, Spot Welder, Plasma Cutter, Blasting Cabinet as well as a Fume Boom for ventilation. There is a first aid kit located on the east wall. One of the first things you should do when walking into the lab is turn on the fume extractor and light switch. When you leave the space make sure to turn off all the machines, close all gas valves and reset the space. [[File:Welding_Shop.jpg|300px|thumb|The Welding Shop]]

The current Aces of the {{PAGENAME}} are '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
{{#set:
| is facility = True
|Has ace=Matthew Martin; mmartin18@georgefox.edu
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1263
}}
__TOC__

=Schedule=

=Equipment Overview =
{{#ask:
[[Is equipment::true]]
[[Is located in facility::Welding Shop]]
|?Has make=Company
|?Has model=Model |+width=10em
|?Has ace.Has name=Current Ace
|format=broadtable
|mainlabel=Name
}}

==Equipment by Icon==
{{#ask:
[[Is equipment::True]][[Has icon::+]] [[Is located in facility::Welding Shop]]
|?Has icon=Icon
|?Is located in facility
|format=plainlist
|template=EquipmentIconGallery
|outrotemplate=EquipmentIconGalleryOutro
|limit=100
|link=none
|sort=Is located in facility
}}

==[[3 commandments]]==

=== 1. Safety First ===
Safety First is the rule we hold highest of the three. This rule applies to both the safety of you as well as others.

Keeping yourself safe in the Welding Lab is very important, as there are possibilities for accidents if you don't follow the safety guidelines. The following rules must be followed at all times.

*Safety glasses must be worn at all times.
*A face shield is required when operating the pedestal grinder.
*When producing sparks pay attention to their direction.
*Never stand on or kink any of the equipment leads.
*No horseplay in the shop.
*Don’t do anything distracting to yourself or others while operating equipment.
*Do not wear any loose clothing, jewelry, or lanyards.
*No open toed shoes.
*Hair will not extend bellow the collar.
*Gloves and helmet must be worn when welding is in progress.
*No bare exposed skin when welding or cutting. Leather welding jacket is to be worn if welding or cutting.
*Food or drink is not allowed in the Welding Lab.
*Do not attempt to operate equipment that you have not been certified on by GFU engineering personnel.
*Do not argue with volunteers or shop staff. Contact Justin Johnson if you have issues that need to be resolved.
*Do not operate welding equipment without a buddy present. Never operate equipment alone in the shop.
*Reset the space. A clean space is a safer space.
*If you see a safety violation inform the person immediately and encourage them to comply with the policies.
*Don’t do anything that would require an additional rule to be added to this list.

=== 2. Reset the Space ===
The Welding Lab has a specific organization to it. Put whatever you use back where it belongs. There is a place for everything and everything has a place. This rule applies to everything in the space. If you use a tool, put it back. If you use a pen, put it back. Do not leave your projects in the Welding Lab unless you have made prior arrangements. Throw away your trash and recycling.

Now, we understand that sometimes you need to leave projects out. Maybe you are in the middle of a large project and you need something left overnight. In cases like this, it is okay, but you NEED to make prior arrangements with Nick or Justin.

Please put back the equipment the way you found it. Make sure the welding gas is SHUT OFF. The welding cables should be neatly wrapped back onto the welders after they have been allowed to cool. Never step on or kink the welding cables and lines.

Always put any unused materials back on the storage shelf, and throw away unusable scrap.

Sweep the floor and welding table when done.

Make sure to shut off the lights and room ventilation before leaving.

Always leave the space better than you found it.

=== 3. Be Professional ===
This commandment has two sides to it. It covers the idea of acting like professional (which Webster’s defines as “exhibiting a courteous, conscientious, and generally businesslike manner in the workplace”). The term also describes the standards of education and training that prepare members of the profession with the particular knowledge and skills necessary to perform their specific role within that profession. Hopefully, you are learning both of these as part of your education at George Fox University. In the Welding Lab we expect you to develop as a courteous, conscientious, and skilled craftsman, understanding the tools and equipment in the Maker Hub and how to use them effectively.

Being a professional has some obvious ramifications in terms of behavior. First, be Christlike. Think of others better than yourselves. Share. If you have been welding for a prolonged time and someone else is waiting for the machine, let them use the machine for a while. This is being a professional.

If you are learning to weld, and you can't get something to work the way you want - ASK SOMEONE! Learn! Become a professional. Learn the craft. This is an educational space. You might think it will be quick and you can just get it done “your” way and not learn how to do it correctly. Be a Professional and learn the proper way, and then be available to teach others.

One very important, and likely difficult part of being a professional is to correct others when they are not being professional. It is your responsibility to speak up when you see somebody doing something inappropriate. If you see somebody doing something unsafe, not resetting the space, or being unprofessional, the professional thing to do is to remind them of the three commandments and ask them politely to correct their action. This is OUR space, not any individual's. As a group, we expect everyone in the space to keep the space safe, clean, and operable for everyone.

If someone acts disgracefully unprofessional to you in the Welding Lab, you are welcome to bring the issue to Justin or Nick's attention.

==General Welding Knowledge==
Welding is the process of joining metals together. It is a form of additive manufacturing. There are several different types of welding, and the Welding Lab uses most of these including spot welding.

In the Welding Lab, metals are joined together using MIG (Metal Inert Gas), TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas), Stick and spot welding.

Each welder has its own special purpose and benefits. MIG is fast and much easier to learn than TIG welding. Spot welding is only used with sheet metal. TIG welding produces very clean welds and the heat is more confined to a smaller area. TIG will also allow you to weld very thin metals.

These are a few good steps to having a successful weld.
* If you experience a fire alarm while working in the Welding Lab turn off the welder power/exhaust fan if you safely can and proceed to the nearest safe exit.
* Make sure the materials have no coatings. Welding of some coatings like cadmium plating or galvanized metal can produce toxic fumes that could be fatal.
* Argon acts as an asphyxiant and will displace oxygen. Do not work in a confined space with argon do to the possibility of a low oxygen condition.
* When setting gas pressure for any of the welders make sure you follow the recommendations listed.
* Materials should be properly prepped and clean for best results.
* Make sure the process you are using is correct for your material type.
* Double check the weld settings and use a piece of scrap to practice before welding on your project.
* Only weld steel and aluminum. Do not attempt to weld unknown materials.
Here are a couple things to keep in mind:
* Material will be very hot after welding so always think before touching.
* Make sure the welder is properly grounded before attempting to weld.
* Never weld in wet clothes or around water.
* Never try to weld any type of tank that has ever held flammable liquids. This is very dangerous and can explode!
* Always check your welding hood settings prior to welding. (start with a darker setting and work your way down.
* Welding takes lots of practice so don't be afraid to ask for help.

==General Bead Blasting Knowledge==
Bead blasting is the process of using compressed air to propel small glass beads for ablating and cleaning a material surface. Different types of blast media are used in industry including Soda, Walnut shells, Sand and many more material types. 
These are a few good steps to having Success with glass beading.
* Make sure the material is free from heavy grease and dirt.
* The material needs to physically fit into the blast cabinet.
Here are a couple things to keep in mind:
* Never point the nozzle at the gloves or window.
* Make sure the power switch is turned on before use.
* Always wait 5 minutes after use before opening the cabinet door. This gives some time for the dust to settle.
* Never try to bead blast anything flammable. Blasting can sometimes create sparks.
* Keep liquids out of the cabinet.
* Never activate the foot pedal with the cabinet door open.

== Canvas Certification ==
Before working with any of the equipment in the welding shop you will need to take the [https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1263 general lab quiz] as well as the specific quiz for each machine you are trying to use. The enrollment code for all of the quizzes is MakerHub.

<!-->
{{#ask:
[[Is equipment::True]]
[[Is located in facility::Welding Shop]]
|?Has icon
|format=gallery
|imageproperty=Has icon
}}

Wood Shop

2021-07-22T18:21:25Z

Cpainter17:

The wood shop is a 975 square foot space. It contains a table saw, radial arm miter saw, planer, jointer, drill press, bandsaw, scroll saw, oscillating spindle sander, combination belt and disc sander, lathe, and other hand tools. It also contains a large CNC router. The shop is also equipped with compressed air quick connections for powering tools and machines. There are two air filtration units located up high in the ceiling. When producing wood dust turn on the filtration units with the white remote control. Theses do a good job of removing a large percentage of the wood dust from the air. [[File:Wood_Shop.jpg|300px|thumb|The Wood Shop]]

The current Maker Hub Student Staff in the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
{{#set:
|Is facility=True
|Has ace=David Demaree;ddemaree17@georgefox.edu
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1255
}}

__TOC__

=Schedule=
The Wood Shop hours are Monday - Friday 2pm-5pm.

=Equipment Overview =
{{#ask:
[[Is equipment::true]]
[[Is located in facility::Wood Shop]]
|?Has make=Company
|?Has model=Model |+width=10em
|?Has ace.Has name=Current Ace
|format=broadtable
|mainlabel=Name
}}
==Equipment by Icon==
{{#ask:
[[Is equipment::True]][[Has icon::+]] [[Is located in facility::Wood Shop]]
|?Has icon=Icon
|?Is located in facility
|format=plainlist
|template=EquipmentIconGallery
|outrotemplate=EquipmentIconGalleryOutro
|limit=100
|link=none
|sort=Is located in facility
}}
==[[3 commandments]]==

=== 1. Safety First ===
Safety First is the rule we hold highest of the three. This rule applies to both the safety of you as well as others

Keeping yourself safe in the Wood Shop is very important, as there are possibilities for accidents if you don't follow the safety guidelines. Safety starts with you so don't depend on others to keep you safe. There is a first aid kit located on the south wall near the Wood Shop door. The following rules must be followed at all times.

All the same safety rules from the machine shop apply:

* Safety glasses must be worn when crossing the yellow line in shop area marked on the floor.

* No horseplay in the shop.

* Don’t do anything distracting to yourself or others while operating machinery.

* Do not wear any loose clothing, jewelry, or landyards.

* No hats or open toed shoes.

* Hair will not extend bellow the collar.

* Do not wear gloves while operating machinery.

* Food or drink is allowed when not operating machinery and it is kept a safe distance away from the machines.

* Do not attempt to operate machinery in the shop that you have not been certified on by GFU engineering personnel.

* Do not argue with volunteers or shop staff. Contact Justin Johnson if you have issues that need to be resolved.

* Do not operate machinery without a shop supervisor or trained volunteer in the shop with you. Never operate equipment alone in the shop.

* Reset the space. Make the area you are working in ready for the next person using the dust broom and vacuum cleaner.

* The first aid kit is located in the machine shop, next to the wood shop doors.

* If you see a safety violation inform the person immediately and encourage them to comply with the policies

* Don’t do anything that would require an additional rule to be added to this list.

=== 2. Reset the Space ===
The Wood Shop has a specific organization to it. Put whatever you use back where it belongs. There is a place for everything and everything has a place. This rule applies to everything in the space. If you use a tool, put it back. If you use a pen, put it back. Throw away your trash and recycling.

Now, we understand that sometimes you need to leave projects out. Maybe you are in the middle of a large project and you need something left overnight. In cases like this, it is okay, but you NEED to make prior arrangements with Nick or Justin.

Please put back the Machinery the way you found it. Clean up chips and any messes you make. NEVER use shop air to clean off yourself or the machines.

Always put any unused materials back on the storage shelf, and throw away unusable scrap.

Always leave the space better than you found it.

=== 3. Be Professional ===
This commandment has two sides to it. It covers the idea of acting like professional (which Webster’s defines as “exhibiting a courteous, conscientious, and generally businesslike manner in the workplace”). The term also describes the standards of education and training that prepare members of the profession with the particular knowledge and skills necessary to perform their specific role within that profession. Hopefully, you are learning both of these as part of your education at George Fox University. In the Welding Lab we expect you to develop as a courteous, conscientious, and skilled craftsman, understanding the tools and equipment in the Maker Hub and how to use them effectively.

Being a professional has some obvious ramifications in terms of behavior. First, be Christlike. Think of others better than yourselves. Share. If you have been welding for a prolonged time and someone else is waiting for the machine, let them use the machine for a while. This is being a professional.

If you are learning to how to use a machine, and you can't get something to work the way you want - ASK SOMEONE! Learn! Become a professional. Learn the craft. This is an educational space. You might think it will be quick and you can just get it done “your” way and not learn how to do it correctly. Be a Professional and learn the proper way, and then be available to teach others.

One very important, and likely difficult part of being a professional is to correct others when they are not being professional. It is your responsibility to speak up when you see somebody doing something inappropriate. If you see somebody doing something unsafe, not resetting the space, or being unprofessional, the professional thing to do is to remind them of the three commandments and ask them politely to correct their action. This is OUR space, not any individual's. As a group, we expect everyone in the space to keep the space safe, clean, and operable for everyone.

If someone acts disgracefully unprofessional to you in the Machine Shop, you are welcome to bring the issue to Justin or Nick's attention.

==General Wood Shop Knowledge==
Woodworking is dangerous. Be careful.

=== Gluing ===
Glue joints (when done correctly) will create a bond stronger than the wood itself. To create a strong glue joint follow this general procedure. It is worth noting that gluing end grain yields a very weak glue joint and should be avoided.
# Ensure that both surfaces that you wish to glue are flat or mate together well.
# Dry fit your glue joint with clamps. This will ensure that your joint fits properly and that all necessary clamps are close by and sized correctly when you go to apply glue.
# You can never have too many clamps.
# Get a handful of paper towels to help clean up glue squeeze out and the glue you will get on your fingers.
# Recognize that once you start applying glue you are on a clock to finish setting up the glue joint before the set time.
# Apply a bead of glue on one surface of your glue joint. Then, spread out that glue into a thin film using your fingers, a glue brush, or a glue roller.
# Repeat step 5 for the other surface of your glue joint such that both surfaces have a thin, even film of glue.'
# Quickly use a paper towel to wipe your fingers clean of glue. The goal here is to remove most of the wet glue so it doesn't get spread all over your lumber. Do NOT take the time to clean all of the glue.
# Using the clamps you already gathered, clamp your glue joint together
# You can never have too many clamps.
# After 5-10 minutes, wipe up the excess glue squeeze out.

=== General Knowledge ===
* The Table Saw is the center of the shop because it is the most frequently used tool.

* Always inspect materials for nails or metal. Metal debris in wood will damage the equipment and possibly cause injury to you.
* Make sure the process you are using is correct for your material type.
* Get help handling larger pieces of wood.
* When making dust turn on the dust filtration units.
* You can't learn woodworking on a wiki page... Go to the wood shop and start making things!
Here are a couple things to keep in mind:
* Some wood dust can be toxic. Be aware of the type of wood you are working with.
* Blades and cutters are very sharp so always think before touching.
* Be aware of the location of your fingers in relation to blades and cutters. Never let your hands or finger come close to the blade path.
* Be aware of people and what they are doing around you.
* Be aware of what is on the floor around you. Don't trip on dust collector hoses or electrical cords.
* May of the machines that remove material are very load. Wear ear protection when needed.
* If something feels like it could be dangerous ask a supervisor before attempting.

== Canvas Certification ==
Before working with any of the equipment in the Wood Shop you will need to take the [https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1255 general lab quiz] as well as the specific quiz for each machine you are trying to use. The enrollment code for all of the quizzes is MakerHub.

<!-->
{{#ask:
[[Is equipment::True]]
[[Is located in facility::Wood Shop]]
|?Has icon
|format=gallery
|imageproperty=Has icon
}}

Prototype Lab

2021-07-22T18:20:37Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
|Has ace=Kyler Howard;khoward19@georgefox.edu
|Is facility = True
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1250
}}
The Prototype Lab contains a group of 3D printers and 2 laser cutters! [[File:prototype_lab.jpeg|300px|thumb|The Prototype Lab]]

The current Maker Hub Student Staff in the {{PAGENAME}} are '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}) and Emily Erickson (eerickson18@georgefox.edu). 

__TOC__

=Schedule=
View the most up-to-date {{PAGENAME}} schedule [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/18hIb8klZ1hCLjVHk0eRi-_QaOWjuZ9XF1I1HIUDEL_I/edit?usp=sharing on this Google Sheet.]

=Equipment Overview=
{{#ask:
[[Is equipment::true]]
[[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]
|?Has make=Company
|?Has model=Model |+width=10em
|?Has ace.Has name=Current Ace
|format=broadtable
|mainlabel=Name
}}

==Equipment by Icon==
{{#ask:
[[Is equipment::True]][[Has icon::+]] [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]
|?Has icon=Icon
|?Is located in facility
|format=plainlist
|template=EquipmentIconGallery
|outrotemplate=EquipmentIconGalleryOutro
|limit=100
|link=none
|sort=Is located in facility
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==[[3 commandments]]==

===1. Safety First===
Safety First is the rule we hold highest of the three. Given the delicate nature of our machines, and the different chemicals and materials we use in the Prototype lab, this rule applies to both the safety of you, and the machines.

Keeping yourself safe in the Prototype Lab is very easy, as there are very few ways to hurt yourself or the machines. However, proper procedure must be followed at all times.

Basic principles of how to implement Safety First in the Prototype Lab:

*Do not touch the extruder heads of the 3D printers when they are running. They will be very hot and will burn you. Wait for the machine to cool off.
*Use gloves when handling chemicals such as Sodium Hydroxide (use the heat protecting gloves when retrieving items from the Sodium Hydroxide bath), Isopropyl or Denatured Alcohol (use Nitrile gloves if handling extensively after removing from the Form Wash), and Lacquer Thinner (use Nitrile gloves when using lacquer thinner to clean residue off of engraved Hydroflasks). You may use gloves whenever you feel necessary, but these are circumstances where gloves are absolutely required.
*In addition to wearing gloves when around the Sodium Hydroxide, you must also wear safety goggles (preferably the goggles, but if those are unavailable then use safety glasses). A lab coat needs to be worn to protect from splashes. All of these items can be found within the lab.
*Make sure you read through the SDS (Safety Data Sheets) binder mounted by the sink so that you are up-to-date on safety procedures regarding the chemicals within the lab.
*If chemicals ever get on your skin or in your eyes, follow the SDS. Wash it off or out (there is an eye washing station in front of the Machine Shop about 30 feet feet away). If it is an emergency, do what you need to do to make sure you and those around you are safe.
*Make sure you know how to use the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).
*If there is a chemical spill, we do have a spill kit. First, evacuate the lab and get everyone out. This means the lab should be shut down until the spill has been properly dealt with. Second, call Justin Johnson whose information should be posted next to the Emergency Response Guide (bright yellow and by the door leading to the main space). If Justin does not answer, call the Campus Public Safety office (formerly Security Services) whose information will be in the Emergency Response Guide or can be found online. Third, if you feel it is safe to do so, deploy the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).
*Be aware that laser cut items can have sharp edges that could cut you.
*Be careful when trying to remove support material by hand from a print off of the Dimension. When the support material breaks, it leaves sharp edges and shatters extremely sharp shards that will cut you if you are not careful.

===2. Reset the Space===
The Prototype Lab has a specific organization to it, even though sometimes it looks like chaos. Put whatever you use back where it belongs. There is a place for everything and everything has a place. This rule applies to everything in the space. If you move a chair, put it back. If you use a tool, put it back. If you use a pen, put it back. Do not leave your projects in the Prototype Lab, take them with you. Do not leave random note sheets that pertain to nothing out. Throw away your trash and recycling.

We have allowed food and drink in the space. Resetting the Space means that you don’t leave wrappers, or trays, or anything that wasn’t there when you came in.

If you are employed in the space, this still applies to you. Do not take tools from the Hub and then store them in the Lab. If we need more tools, speak with Ben and Gabi and they can evaluate the situation and, if necessary, they will get more tools.

After you have started your project on a machine, make sure to clear the project from the program on the Prototype Lab computer. If you have a part you want to reuse, place the part inside the Prototype Lab Part Storage Folder on the computers.

Now, we understand that sometimes you need to leave things out. Maybe you are in the middle of a large print and you need something to run overnight. In cases like this, it is okay, but you NEED to '''''leave a note''''' on your system so that others know the situation.

When parts finish on a 3D printer, remove them from the build plate and place them in the completed parts bin so that the owner can pick up their part.

Always put any unused materials from the laser cutter back on the storage shelf, and throw away unusable scrap.

Clear the computer of any files or images left over after completing your project.

Sweep when needed.

Immediately clean up any spilled Formlabs resin.

Always leave the space better than you found it.

===3. Be Professional===
This commandment has two sides to it. It covers the idea of acting like professional (which Webster’s defines as “exhibiting a courteous, conscientious, and generally businesslike manner in the workplace”). The term also describes the standards of education and training that prepare members of the profession with the particular knowledge and skills necessary to perform their specific role within that profession. Hopefully, you are learning both of these as part of your education at George Fox University. In the Prototype Lab we expect you to develop as a courteous, conscientious, and skilled craftsman, understanding the tools and equipment in the Maker Hub and how to use them effectively.

Being a professional has some obvious ramifications in terms of behavior. First, be Christlike. Think of others better than yourselves. Share. If you have been printing a lot or using the laser cutter for a prolonged time and someone else is waiting for the machine, let them use the machine for a while. This is being a professional.

If you are working with a machine, and you don’t know the proper way to do what you are attempting - ASK SOMEONE! Learn! Become a professional. Learn the craft. This is an educational space. You might think it will be quick and you can just get it done “your” way and not learn how to do it correctly. Be a Professional and learn the proper way, and then be available to teach others.

One very important, and likely difficult part of being a professional is to correct others when they are not being professional. It is your responsibility to speak up when you see somebody doing something inappropriate. If you see somebody doing something unsafe, not resetting the space, or being unprofessional, the professional thing to do is to remind them of the three commandments and ask them politely to correct their action. This is OUR space, not any individual's. As a group, we expect everyone in the space to keep the space safe, clean, and operable for everyone.

If someone acts disgracefully unprofessional to you in the Prototype Lab, you are welcome to bring the issue to the attention of the Prototype Lab student staff or the Maker Hub staff.

==General 3D Printing Knowledge==
3D printing is the process of joining material together to create a three-dimensional object using computer control. It is a form of additive manufacturing. Objects are created using a 3D model. There are many different types of 3D printing, and the Prototype Lab utilizes two types which are FDM (fused deposit modeling) and SLA (stereolithography).

In the Prototype Lab, objects are most commonly printed from an STL file. This means if you create a part in SolidWorks that you must save the file as a .stl instead of a .sldprt . Once the file is in STL form, it can then be processed by a slicer software. The slicer software converts the 3D model into thin layers and produces a G-code file. G-codes communicate with the chosen 3D printer, giving it directions on how to print the object.

Different 3D printers will run with different slicer programs. Typically a program will allow you to edit various parts of the process. One common consideration will be the layer thickness. This is the resolution at which the printer will print at. Each printer will have its own range of resolution. The thinner the layer thickness (higher resolution), the more detail you will get, but the print will be created more slowly. The thicker the layers (lower resolution), the less detail you will receive, but the object will be printed more quickly. Another consideration is support. For objects with overhangs, holes, etc., support will be needed. This will give the printer a surface to print on so that it can continue to build the print layer by layer. Each printer uses supports differently. Some printers have break away support while other have dissolvable support material.

Keep in mind that '''every print should be recorded in the Job Log'''. This allows the Lab to track the material usages and success rates of the printers, as well as recording the prices of every print. To record your print in the job log, go to the [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/16fEdNcuvR_GSNV2Emy1P7SpJdetXU7ts9uQy-Ok7dRk/edit?usp=sharing Job Log spreadsheet] and fill out the required fields. A good time to fill it out is right after you have finished setting up a print.
[[File:3Dsupports.png|250px|thumb|right|Example of an object (blue) printed with supports (white)]]

There are common places of potential failure which you should watch for every print. The following points of failure specifically apply to FDM prints.

*Adhesion:
**When the print first starts, it is prudent to ensure that the filament is properly adhering to the build plate.
**Watch the print until the first dozen layers have been printed to make sure it is starting off successfully.
**The print can start sliding around the plate at anytime, although it is much more likely to fail toward the beginning of the print.
**A tall and skinny print is much more likely to struggle with adhesion than a short and stout print. Taking time to discern the best orientation for your print is always a good call.
**Adding a raft (sometimes called a brim) will also help if you print is struggling with staying adhered to the plate.
*Clogging
**Sometimes the extruder will clog causing the print to fail.
**This typically can be seen when a clump of filament balls up at the end of the nozzle.
**If this occurs, immediately cancel the print and remove the clumped filament. Make sure that the nozzle is still able to extrude filament, if not, you may need to open up the extruder and clean it. Keep working on it until you are able to extrude filament again.
*Air Extruding
**This means that the extruder thinks it is extruding filament when it really is not.
**Immediately cancel the print. Then restart the print.
**If the printer is still air extruding, cancel the print and unload the filament. You can try reloading and starting the print again.
**If the problem persists, you will probably need to take the extruder apart and clean it out before attempting any further prints.

===1. Printer Types===
There are many different types of printers, such as Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), Stereolithography (SLA), Selective Laser Sintering (SLS), Selective Laser Melting (SLM), Digital Light Processing (DLP), Electronic Beam Melting (EBM), Laminated Object Manufacturing (LOM), Binder Jetting (BJ)... Each printer type employs different materials. The Prototype Lab has FDM and SLA machines.

Information about FDM and SLA printers and which machines these are and what materials they can use which. In each printer's page, one can simply link it to this so they don't have to describe materials, just simply state which ones are used with it. Mostly this is all here so I remember to do it or someone else sees it and wants to do it.

====SLA Printing====
[[File:InvertedSLA.png|302x302px|thumb|right|Inverted SLA Process]]
Stereolithography, SLA, is a part of the manufacturing technology of vat polymerization. This means a light source (laser) is used to cure liquid resin into a hard plastic.
The Form 2 is the only 3D printer that the Prototype Lab has that is an SLA printer. It utilizes the Upside Down or Inverted orientation.
The resin tank has a clear bottom with a surface the resin will not stick to. This allows the resin to cure against the bottom of the tank.
The build platform is lowered into the resin until it is hovering above the bottom surface of the tank, as far away as the height of the layer to be constructed.
The laser is directed through the bottom of the tank and cures a layer of resin onto the build platform. Then, the resin tank slides over and the build platform raises. The wiper will then sweep across the tank to circulate the resin.
The build platform will lower again, and the process will be repeated until the print is completed.
Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This de-lamination also causes the Form 2 to be the Prototype Lab's slowest 3D printer.
Once a part is finished on the Form 2, it must be removed off of the build plate. Try to avoid scraping the build plate when removing parts. Any excess resin must be washed off using the Form Wash, the part must be air dried so that any isopropyl alcohol from the Wash has evaporated, the part should be cured in the Form Cure, and supports should be clipped off. Any remaining support marks can be sanded off if so desired.
Extra information on SLA Printing can be found [https://formlabs.com/blog/ultimate-guide-to-stereolithography-sla-3d-printing/ here].

====FDM Printing====
Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) printers use a thermoplastic filament, which is heated to its melting point, then extruded to create layers which then build an object. There are many different types of FDM printers. Some use a modeling material and a support material, some just use a modeling material which when creating support will use a different style of layering that allows the filament to break off easily, some are able to use multiple filaments at once allowing for multicolored objects to be created. [[File:Filament_Spool.jpg|250px|thumb|right|Example of a filament spool for a FDM printer.]]

Both Stratasys printers (F370's) use soluble support filament (the support filament dissolves in a heated sodium hydroxide bath), the Prusa printers use only a model material, and the Markforge printer only uses model material as well (however it will layer another filament for extra support).

The filament for these printers comes in spools (basically thin plastic ropes that are wound up). The filament is fed through an extruder head, heated to the desired temperature, then extruded (similar to what happens with a hot glue gun).

FDM printers can work with various materials, in the Prototype Lab we mainly stick to ABS which is used by the Stratasys machines and PLA which is used by the Prusas. The Markforge uses a material called Onyx (nylon and plastic mix) and will layer in another filament such as Carbon Fiber, Kevlar, etc.

==General Laser Cutting Knowledge==
Laser cutting directs a high-powered laser through optics. The laser cutter follows a predetermined pattern to engrave or cut the material. Laser cutting is a great way to get a professional-looking surface finish.

*Can be used for many different materials ranging between wood, glass, rock, plastics, and even engraving Hydroflasks. At this time, the laser cutter in the Prototype Lab is not set up for metal etching.
*Works best on flat surfaces or cylinders with constant diameters.
*Performing a cut or engrave with the laser will always begin with an image, pdf, DXF, or similar file. When using SolidWorks you will need to save your file as a DXF using the selected face.

There are a couple common steps that must be done correctly when using the laser cutter:

*Always make sure that the lens and cone are clean before starting a print.
*Correctly focus the laser above the material, using the correct focusing tool for the lens type.
*Choose the correct material profile for the material you are using.
*Clean the bed of the laser cutter when you are finished.

==Canvas Certification==
Before working with any of the equipment in the prototype lab you will need to take the [https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1250 general lab quiz] as well as the specific quiz for each machine you are trying to use. The enrollment code for all of the quizzes is MakerHub.

The Hub

2021-07-22T18:19:56Z

Cpainter17:

[[File:MakerHub1.jpg|500px|right|The Hub]]
With more than 5,500 sq. ft., The Hub contains a variety of hand tools and equipment. The capabilities include vinyl cutting/printing, sewing, electronics workbench as well as [[Supplies|low-fidelity prototyping]].

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 

__TOC__

=Schedule=
The Hub is open 24/7 during the semester. You will need to take the Maker Hub Intro quiz to gain access.

=Equipment Overview =
{{#ask:
[[Is equipment::true]]
[[Is located in facility::The Hub]]
|?Has make=Company
|?Has model=Model |+width=10em
|?Has ace.Has name=Current Ace
|format=broadtable
|mainlabel=Name
}}

==Equipment by Icon==
{{#ask:
[[Is equipment::True]][[Has icon::+]] [[Is located in facility::The Hub]]
|?Has icon=Icon
|?Is located in facility
|format=plainlist
|template=EquipmentIconGallery
|outrotemplate=EquipmentIconGalleryOutro
|limit=100
|link=none
|sort=Is located in facility
}}

==[[3 commandments]]==

=== 1. Safety First ===
The Hub is open 24/7 to students. There is a first aid box located on the west side wall of the Tool Room. The box contains band-aids and other basic first aid needs. This is not a campus supply and should not be used as a supply source for your personal first aid kit. If you do happen to get blood on the floor or equipment you need to contact the technician or security. There are contact phone numbers listed on the first aid box.

There are several pieces of equipment in the Hub that can be extremely hot and they will burn you. Pay attention and don't assume that a machine was off when you make contact with it.

=== 2. Reset the Space ===

First, there are approximately 8 open workbenches that are open for general use. Each of these has a permanent home that is marked on the floor. Each of these tables should be surrounded by 4 chairs. Each of these tables is also equipped with power outlets on each leg. These are connected with cables and cable tied - please do not cut these cable ties (why has someone been doing this??? why???). There is one power plug for each table that can be plugged into the power outlet that comes down from the ceiling. These power outlets have been positioned so that that they hang directly down by the table. These tables are on wheels and can be moved. However, when you have finished with the table, please reset the space. Ensure that the table is placed back inside of the special marks on the floor, plug in the table, and make sure that the four chairs are back around the table. When you RESET THE SPACE, it makes it nice for those following behind you. And we want to be nice … don’t we? Yes is the answer to that question. If you need to leave your project out on a table, you must mark it as in use, with your Name, Team/Project, initial date, and reason for leaving it out. There needs to be a decent reason for this, and it shouldn’t stay out for more than three days. If there are special circumstances, please speak with your project advisor and/or the technician.
There are smaller blue tables that also have spots marked on the floor for their permanent homes. These tables reside on the wall nearest the quad. These tables can be used as transport tables for your projects. There are some limited storage locations in the Hub, and you can use these tables to transport your projects from these locations to wherever you might need in the Hub. When you are finished using these tables, please clear them off and put them back. If, for some special reason, you need the table to be in use for a short time (less than three days), mark the table as in use. This is useful if you want to run overnight tests or you are in the middle of an assembly. However, this is for short term use.

When using the electronics station, it is, as always, imperative that you RESET THE SPACE. Clean up all solder paste, stripped wires, etc., and put everything back where you found it, putting the cables back where they go.

There is an end cabinet located at the end of the Low-Fidelity Prototyping Station that holds papers and materials as well as scrap cardboard. If there is room, feel free to add scrap cardboard (from shipped boxes, etc.) to keep this supply stocked.

For the other materials, if they are low or empty, please notify the toolroom so that supplies can be restocked. As always, when finished, RESET THE SPACE. Clean up the table and make sure that the bins are orderly.

On the wall are a set of tools. These are available for use within the Maker Hub. As should be obvious, when you are done using the tools, return them - RESET THE SPACE. For example, if you use a tool put it back when you are done. Not much of an example. Sort of hard to make this any more clear. Let’s say it is a wrench - and you use it. When you are done - put it back. Get it? The tools are marked with blue paint to indicate they belong in the Maker Hub.

If you are a senior and you need tools for your project and don’t want to return them, check them out from the toolroom. If we don’t have them, speak with your advisor and we can see about getting them. In the meantime, put them back. If you are an employee and need equipment and/or tools in your place of employment, do not abscond with the tools on the wall. You may certainly use them, but you must put them back. If you want tools permanently in your shop, ask the technician and the problem can be remedied.

=== 3. Be Professional ===

There are eight rolling computers that also have permanent homes at marked spaces around the HUB. They are all the same as the Computer Lab machines with the exception of numbers 7 and 8. These machines also have the Adobe Creative Suite software. Each of these 8 machines have UPS power supplies that allow you to unplug the machine and move it around the Maker Hub without powering it down. You allegedly have about 15 minutes of power available from these UPS supplies (if anyone actually times it, let us know). Feel free to use these computers wherever you want to use them … they often make their way into meeting rooms. However, when you have finished, as always RESET THE SPACE! The computers, when not in use, should always be sitting, plugged in, at their permanent locations. This is especially important if you take them into a lab or the senior design studio, or one of the other Maker Hub shops. When you have finished sitting at the machine, return it. Do not leave it in a different space. If your senior design team or lab or shop needs an extra computer, speak with your project advisor or the technician and we can address the situation. BE PROFESSIONAL!

Low-Fidelity Prototyping Station
The Low-Fidelity Prototyping Station (Crafts) is provided so that students can make quick project mock-ups. Please BE PROFESSIONAL when using this station. While it might be tempting to make pipe-cleaner men as you did in elementary school, this material is provided for free to be utilized for projects, not entertainment. We will simply not be able to provide these materials if they are continually wasted.

==General Maker Hub Knowledge==
The Hub is the central room of the Maker Hub. It has multiple open tables for work, 8 computers on wheels, some smaller blue rolling tables and some semi-permanent stations. Let’s take a little time to go over these elements .

There is A/V equipment in the corner of the space. Best to just leave it alone. It is used for assemblies by trained professionals. You shouldn’t try this. And it is pretty boring.

There are storage shelves in the senior design corridor across from the Environmental lab. If you want to store your project there, this is fine. Just label your shelf. Feel free to use the blue carts to move it into the Maker Hub for work. We will be working more on the storage options.

Within the Hub, there are some semi-permanent workstations: Sewing Station The sewing station is located next to the Prototype Lab and consists of 2 sewing machines and 1 serger. Use of the sewing equipment requires specialized training. Vinyl Cutting Station The vinyl cutting station sits in front of the windows of the Prototype Lab. The vinyl cutter consists of a vinyl cutter and a vinyl printer. These are useful for making signs, stickers and other fun things. Use of this station requires specialized training. In addition to the vinyl cutter, there is a large roll of butcher paper available. This does not require special training. You pull it and tear it off. If you cannot operate this piece of equipment, please leave the space and change your major. Electronics Stations There are two electronics stations currently installed in the Hub. These workbenches each contain a soldering station with soldering mat, oscilloscope, multimeter, power supply, and signal generator. Located at the end of the station is a cabinet used for holding various electronic cables and wires needed for working with equipment.

Here are a few good steps to being successful in the Maker Hub.
* Do not prop open doors. They are closed and locked for a reason.
* Please make sure equipment is turned off before leaving.
* Make sure you you have been properly trained before attempting to use any of the machines or equipment.
* Always ask if you have questions on how to do something.
Here are a couple things to keep in mind:
* Some of the machines get very hot so don't assume a machine is cold when you touch it.
* There are hand tools located on the wall. Do not remove these from the Maker Hub without permission.
* Make sure to get permission from the technician prior to leaving any projects in the Maker Hub.

== Canvas Certification ==
Before working with any of the equipment in the Maker Hub you will need to take the [https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1247 Maker Hub Introduction Canvas Quiz] as well as the specific quiz for each machine you are trying to use. The enrollment code for all of the quizzes is MakerHub.

{{#set:
| is facility = True
|Has ace=
}}

<!-->
The Hub is the central room of the Maker Hub. It has multiple open tables for work, 8 computers on wheels, some smaller blue rolling tables and some semi-permanent stations. Let’s take a little time to go over these elements .

First, there are approximately 8 open workbenches that are open for general use. Each of these has a permanent home that is marked on the floor. Each of these tables should be surrounded by 4 chairs. Each of these tables is also equipped with power outlets on each leg. These are connected with cables and cable tied - please do not cut these cable ties (why has someone been doing this??? why???). There is one power plug for each table that can be plugged into the power outlet that comes down from the ceiling. These power outlets have been positioned so that that they hang directly down by the table. These tables are on wheels and can be moved. However, when you have finished with the table, please reset the space. Ensure that the table is placed back inside of the special marks on the floor, plug in the table, and make sure that the four chairs are back around the table. When you RESET THE SPACE, it makes it nice for those following behind you. And we want to be nice … don’t we? Yes is the answer to that question. If you need to leave your project out on a table, you must mark it as in use, with your Name, Team/Project, initial date, and reason for leaving it out. There needs to be a decent reason for this, and it shouldn’t stay out for more than three days. If there are special circumstances, please speak with your project advisor and/or the technician.

There are smaller blue tables that also have spots marked on the floor for their permanent homes. These tables reside on the wall nearest the quad. These tables can be used as transport tables for your projects. There are some limited storage locations in the Hub, and you can use these tables to transport your projects from these locations to wherever you might need in the Hub. When you are finished using these tables, please clear them off and put them back. If, for some special reason, you need the table to be in use for a short time (less than three days), mark the table as in use. This is useful if you want to run overnight tests or you are in the middle of an assembly. However, this is for short term use. Remember, BE PROFESSIONAL. Release the materials for others.

There are eight rolling computers that also have permanent homes at marked spaces around the HUB. They are all the same as the Computer Lab machines with the exception of numbers 7 and 8. These machines also have the Adobe Creative Suite software. Each of these 8 machines have UPS power supplies that allow you to unplug the machine and move it around the Maker Hub without powering it down. You allegedly have about 15 minutes of power available from these UPS supplies (if anyone actually times it, let us know). Feel free to use these computers wherever you want to use them … they often make their way into meeting rooms. However, when you have finished, as always RESET THE SPACE! The computers, when not in use, should always be sitting, plugged in, at their permanent locations. This is especially important if you take them into a lab or the senior design studio, or one of the other Maker Hub shops. When you have finished sitting at the machine, return it. Do not leave it in a different space. If your senior design team or lab or shop needs an extra computer, speak with your project advisor or the technician and we can address the situation. BE PROFESSIONAL!

On the wall are a set of tools. These are available for use within the Maker Hub. As should be obvious, when you are done using the tools, return them - RESET THE SPACE. For example, if you use a tool put it back when you are done. Not much of an example. Sort of hard to make this any more clear. Let’s say it is a wrench - and you use it. When you are done - put it back. Get it? The tools are marked with blue paint to indicate they belong in the Maker Hub.
If you are a senior and you need tools for your project and don’t want to return them, check them out from the toolroom. If we don’t have them, speak with your advisor and we can see about getting them. In the meantime, put them back. If you are an employee and need equipment and/or tools in your place of employment, do not abscond with the tools on the wall. You may certainly use them, but you must put them back. If you want tools permanently in your shop, ask the technician and the problem can be remedied.

There is A/V equipment in the corner of the space. Best to just leave it alone. It is used for assemblies by trained professionals. You shouldn’t try this. And it is pretty boring.

There are storage shelves in the senior design corridor across from the Environmental lab. If you want to store your project there, this is fine. Just label your shelf. Feel free to use the blue carts to move it into the Maker Hub for work. We will be working more on the storage options.

Within the Hub, there are some semi-permanent workstations:
Sewing Station
The sewing station is located next to the Prototype Lab and consists of 2 sewing machines and 1 serger. Use of the sewing equipment requires specialized training.
Vinyl Cutting Station
The vinyl cutting station sits in front of the windows of the Prototyp Lab. The vinyl cutter consists of a vinyl cutter and a vinyl printer. These are useful for making signs, stickers and other fun things.
Use of this station requires specialized training. In addition to the vinyl cutter, there is a large roll of butcher paper available. This does not require special training. You pull it and tear it off. If you cannot operate this piece of equipment, please leave the space and change your major.
Electronics Stations
There are two electronics stations currently installed in the Hub. These workbenches each contain a soldering station with soldering mat, oscilloscope, multimeter, power supply, and signal generator.
Located at the end of the station is a cabinet used for holding various electronic cables and wires needed for working with equipment.

When using the electronics station, it is, as always, imperative that you RESET THE SPACE. Clean up all solder paste, stripped wires, etc., and put everything back where you found it, putting the cables back where they go.

Low-Fidelity Prototyping Station
The Low-Fidelity Prototyping Station (Crafts) is provided so that students can make quick project mock-ups. Please BE PROFESSIONAL when using this station. While it might be tempting to make pipe-cleaner men as you did in elementary school, this material is provided for free to be utilized for projects, not entertainment. We will simply not be able to provide these materials if they are continually wasted.

This station also includes a laminating machine. Be careful, it can get hot (as it says in letters that are oddly small for the 21st century).

There is an end cabinet located at the end of the Low-Fidelity Prototyping Station that holds papers and materials as well as scrap cardboard. If there is room, feel free to add scrap cardboard (from shipped boxes, etc.) to keep this supply stocked.

For the other materials, if they are low or empty, please notify the toolroom so that supplies can be restocked. As always, when finished, RESET THE SPACE. Clean up the table and make sure that the bins are orderly.

The Vault

2021-07-22T18:07:38Z

Cpainter17:

The Vault is a 600 square foot space. It contains various equipment and stations shown in the Equipment Overview section below. [[File:The Vault.jpg|300px|thumb|The Vault]]

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
{{#set:
|Is facility=True
|Has ace=Shane Case; scase16@georgefox.edu
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1299
}}

__TOC__

=Schedule=
You will need to take the Vault quiz to gain general card access. The access hours are M-F 9am-6pm via the west card reader. There are 3 doors located in the Vault area. The door leading to the Machine Shop should only be used during open shop hours and you need to have passed the Machine Shop quiz. Only shop supervisors should be using the Machine Shop door to gain access to the Vault/Tool Room. The door leading into the Prototype Lab is only for Prototype Lab supervisors or staff.

=Equipment Overview =
{{#ask:
[[Is equipment::true]]
[[Is located in facility::The Vault]]
|?Has make=Company
|?Has model=Model |+width=10em
|?Has ace.Has name=Current Ace
|format=broadtable
|mainlabel=Name
}}

==Equipment by Icon==
{{#ask:
[[Is equipment::True]][[Has icon::+]] [[Is located in facility::The Vault]]
|?Has icon=Icon
|?Is located in facility
|format=plainlist
|template=EquipmentIconGallery
|outrotemplate=EquipmentIconGalleryOutro
|limit=100
|link=none
|sort=Is located in facility
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==[[3 commandments]]==

=== 1. Safety First ===
Safety First is the rule we hold highest of the three. This rule applies to both the safety of you as well as others

Keeping yourself safe in the Vault is very important, as there are possibilities for accidents if you don't follow the safety guidelines. Safety starts with you so don't depend on others to keep you safe. There is a first aid kit located on the south wall near the Wood Shop door. The following rules must be followed at all times.

See the following safety rules for the Vault:

* Safety glasses must be worn when working at the jewelry station and vacuum former.

* If using the propane torch at the Jewelry Station you need to keep it at the station and away from flammable materials.

* No horseplay in the Vault.

* No open toed shoes.

* Food or drink is allowed when not operating machinery as long as it is kept a safe distance away from the machines.

* Do not attempt to operate machinery in the Vault that you have not been certified on by GFU engineering personnel.

* Do not argue with volunteers or shop staff. Contact Justin Johnson if you have issues that need to be resolved.

* Reset the space. Make the area you are working in ready for the next person using the dust broom and vacuum cleaner.

* The first aid kit is located in the machine shop, next to the wood shop doors. There is a second kit located on the east Maker Hub Wall near the Tool Room.

* If you see a safety violation inform the person immediately and encourage them to comply with the policies

* Don’t do anything that would require an additional rule to be added to this list.

=== 2. Reset the Space ===
The Vault has a specific organization to it. Put whatever you use back where it belongs. There is a place for everything and everything has a place. This rule applies to everything in the space. If you use a tool, put it back. If you use a pen, put it back. Throw away your trash and recycling.

Please put back the Machinery the way you found it. Clean up any messes you make. NEVER use shop air to clean off yourself or the machines.

If you remove any stock from the Vault inventory make sure to fill out the removal sheet hanging next to the cage door.

Always leave the space better than you found it.

=== 3. Be Professional ===
This commandment has two sides to it. It covers the idea of acting like professional (which Webster’s defines as “exhibiting a courteous, conscientious, and generally businesslike manner in the workplace”). The term also describes the standards of education and training that prepare members of the profession with the particular knowledge and skills necessary to perform their specific role within that profession. Hopefully, you are learning both of these as part of your education at George Fox University. In the Welding Lab we expect you to develop as a courteous, conscientious, and skilled craftsman, understanding the tools and equipment in the Maker Hub and how to use them effectively.

Being a professional has some obvious ramifications in terms of behavior. First, be Christlike. Think of others better than yourselves. Share. If you have been welding for a prolonged time and someone else is waiting for the machine, let them use the machine for a while. This is being a professional.

If you are learning to how to use a machine, and you can't get something to work the way you want - ASK SOMEONE! Learn! Become a professional. Learn the craft. This is an educational space. You might think it will be quick and you can just get it done “your” way and not learn how to do it correctly. Be a Professional and learn the proper way, and then be available to teach others.

One very important, and likely difficult part of being a professional is to correct others when they are not being professional. It is your responsibility to speak up when you see somebody doing something inappropriate. If you see somebody doing something unsafe, not resetting the space, or being unprofessional, the professional thing to do is to remind them of the three commandments and ask them politely to correct their action. This is OUR space, not any individual's. As a group, we expect everyone in the space to keep the space safe, clean, and operable for everyone.

If someone acts disgracefully unprofessional to you in the Machine Shop, you are welcome to bring the issue to Justin or Nick's attention.

==General Vault Knowledge==
There is a variety of equipment located in the Vault (including [[Gary's Favorite Robot Arm|Gary's Favorite Robot Arm]]) as well as a good supply of electronic components and fasteners for projects. If you need to take any of these items for a project make sure you document the removal by filling out the inventory removal form. You will find the form hanging on a clip board located next to the Tool Room door.
The printer materials and acrylic located in the room should only be removed by Machine Shop and Prototype Lab staff. There are also items hanging on the cage wall. These items should only be removed when checked out.

== Canvas Certification ==
Before working with any of the equipment in the Vault you will need to take the [https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1299 general lab quiz] as well as the specific quiz for each machine you are trying to use. The enrollment code for all of the quizzes is MakerHub.

<!-->
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Virtual Reality Welding Station

2021-07-22T18:06:24Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
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|Has icon=File:Welding simulator.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:AugmentedArc_Simplified_Package.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Miller AugmentedArc
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1311
|Has make=Miller
|Has model=Augmented Arc Welding Simulator
|Has serial number=MJ155089D
|Has ace=Matthew Martin;mmartin18@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The virtual reality welder is the industry’s most realistic welding simulation solution for classroom training. For beginner to advanced-level weld students, the AugmentedArc System simulates multiple welding processes, blending real-world and computer-generated images into a unique, augmented reality environment. Below is an example of this piece of equipment being used.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=193&v=wYRymhZrFmk}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* Base metal - The metal pieces that are being joined together. For the simulator there are several base metal configurations in the form of the blue coupons.
* Coupons - Small pieces of metal used to practice welding.
* Weld Metal/Electrode - The metal added to the base metal to create a weld.
* Torch - The piece that is held while welding and feeds the weld metal into the base metal.
* MIG Welding - Metal inert gas is a welding process in which an electric arc forms between a consumable MIG wire electrode and the base metal, which heats the base metal, causing them to melt and join. Along with the wire electrode, a shielding gas feeds through the welding torch, which shields the process from contaminants in the air. This is the easiest and most common type of welding and it is recommended that you start with this method. DC or AC current can be used for actual MIG welding but the AR welding station only uses DC current.
* TIG Welding - Tungsten inert gas is an arc welding process that uses a non-consumable tungsten electrode to produce the weld. The weld area and electrode is protected from oxidation or other atmospheric contamination by an inert shielding gas (argon or helium), and a filler metal is normally used, though some welds, known as autogenous welds, do not require it. This is difficult to master but provides great control when creating a weld. It is also useful for welding many metals besides steel.
* Stick Welding - A manual arc welding process that uses a consumable electrode covered with a flux to lay the weld. An electric current, in the form of either alternating current or direct current from a welding power supply, is used to form an electric arc between the electrode and the metals to be joined. The workpiece and the electrode melts forming a pool of molten metal (weld pool) that cools to form a joint. As the weld is laid, the flux coating of the electrode disintegrates, giving off vapors that serve as a shielding gas and providing a layer of slag, both of which protect the weld area from atmospheric contamination. This is the oldest form of welding and is still popular; however there is not a stick welder in the maker hub.
'''[https://www.millerwelds.com/files/owners-manuals/O276533H_MIL.pdf User Manual]'''

==Training==
====Operation====

The operation of the AR Welding station is simple. First you will select a torch for the type of weld you want to practice and plug in the machine. After that it is a simple matter of setting up an exercise based on difficulty, welding method, and weld type. See the image below to learn how to adjust different weld parameters and navigate the software. It is recommended that you start with the pre-programmed exercise to begin and then move on to custom exercises as you become more experienced. The general weld type is determined by what piece is being welded; the options include liner and cylindrical butt, lap, and T joints. Before the exercise begins you will have to calibrate the AR helmet. The calibration process occurs at the beginning of the exercise and is completed by following the instructions given by the AR helmet. After the calibration is completed complete the exercise, view the results, and then repeat.

====Demonstration====

With the virtual reality welder, students will get the idea as to how the welding machines work, whether that be arc, MIG, or TIG welding. Once students earn a score of 90 or higher on the simulation, they have the opportunity to work with the actual welders in the welding shop.

====General Procedure====

Setting up Simulator
# Plug in extension cord (make sure it won’t trip anyone) for power.
# Flip switch on back of machine to turn on.
# Press power button on the front of the machine and wait for the system to start up.
# Attach welding process of your choice (see welding processes section down below).
# At login screen, select user. Guest works well.
# Select right or left handed. This is important because it affects the angle the torch should be held at when performing an exercise.
# Open an exercise. There are four choices for creating an exercise: Open, GMAW (MIG), GTAW (TIG), SMAW (Stick). If you know what type of weld you want to practice go for the open exercise because it will allow for the most weld customization such as wire feed speed (WFS), wire diameter, and weld pattern. If this is a new experience, select the type of weld you are practicing and roll with one of the preset courses.
# On the top of the screen the welding parameters are displayed and will be in red if they are not set properly. Use the control panel (pictured below) to adjust them as needed. Most often you will need to adjust the voltage, amperage, and gas flow rate. This is to account for the electrode and base metal thickness so that the weld will penetrate properly. [[File:Weld Panel.png|none|thumb|594x594px| (1) Power On/Off Button Use button to turn system on and off. (2) Helmet Light Control Use button to turn helmet light on and off, and change intensity of light. (3) Filler Rod Light Control (TIG) Control not used with latest software. (4) Volume Adjustment Buttons Use buttons to increase or decrease volume of helmet speakers. (5) Display (Zoom) Adjustment Buttons Use buttons to magnify images on display screens. (6) Augmented Reality (AR) Button Use button to turn augmented reality feature on and off. (7) System Settings Button Use button to access system settings menu. Use the settings menu to change language, units of measure (standard or metric), camera settings and other parameters. After starting an exercise, use the System Settings button to adjust video device settings and optimize AR tracking for the room lighting conditions. (8) Clean Slag Button Use button to remove slag from augmented reality workpiece when Stick and FCAW welding. Slag must be cleaned for test results to be displayed. (9) Shielding Gas Flow Adjustment Buttons Use buttons to increase or decrease the shielding gas flow for the MIG and TIG weld processes. (10) Gun Trigger Selection Button Use button to select either two-step or four-step trigger operation. (11) Amperage/Wire Feed Speed Selection Button Use button to select the weld parameter (amperage or wire feed speed) to be adjusted (see Item 12). (12) Amperage/Wire Feed Speed Adjustment Buttons Use buttons to increase or decrease amperage or wire feed speed (see item 11). (13) AC/Polarity Selection Button Use button to select AC weld output or DCEP or DCEN weld polarity. (14) Voltage Adjustment Buttons Use buttons to increase or decrease weld voltage. (15) System Navigation Buttons Use buttons to navigate AR system programs and select menu items. (16) OK (System Selection) Button Use button to activate selected menu items. (17) System Cancel Button Use button to stop the AR program or activity in use, or return to the previous screen. ]]
# Place Helmet on head and size to head.
# Follow instructions in the helmet to calibrate the simulator and then begin welding.
# Press cancel to exit. There is also an option to view results that is very helpful.

Switching Welding Processes

MIG:
# Take the connector of the MIG torch and align the 4 holes with the connecting port on the front of the machine (left side).
# Twist the threaded end, but do not over tighten.
# To remove, unscrew the connector.
Stick:
# Grab clamp with the small cord attached.
# Align the pins with the 5 holes of the connector and with the connecting port on the front of the machine (right side).
# To remove, press the silver button and softly pull straight out (do not twist).
# See item 8 above, use Clean Slag Button to assure test results will be displayed.
TIG:
# Grab the cable with TIG torch attached.
# Align the 4 holes of the connector with the connecting port on the front of the machine (left side - same as MIG).
# Screw in while holding the connector (do not over tighten).
# To remove, unscrew the connector.

Clean up:
# Take the helmet off and place it on the 2nd shelf of the cart.
# Disconnect welding process.
# Exit out of the exercise.
# Press power button on front of the machine and wait for screen to be completely blank.
# Flip the switch to off on the back of machine.
# Unplug the extension cord and leave it coiled up neatly underneath the cart.
# Stack work pieces neatly.
# Coil up all cables of torches used and neatly place on the bottom shelf of the cart; leaving the space better than you found it if possible.
# Ensure that the cables are not tangled and do not pull on them if they are. This can damage the cables.

==Safety==
* Don’t drop the helmet, always place on cart when your not wearing it. It is expensive so take good care of it.
* When someone enters the room, make sure they know about the extension cord to prevent tripping.
* Do not aggressively over tighten the connectors of the welding torches or they could be damaged.
* Make sure to press silver button when releasing the connector of the stick torch or it could break.
* Do not cut power to the machine before it is completely shut down.
* Always lay torches completely on top of the table and avoid sharp bends in the wire to prevent damage to the torches.
* Make sure overhead clamp is secured tightly before using or you could get smacked in the head.
* Do not scratch the coupons as the simulator needs the markings to read your weld.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1311 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
* The most common issue with this device is the AR flickering on and off and this is extremely annoying because the welding process is halted each time this occurs. To fix this pay close attention to the red arrows on the side of the screen and move your view angle around until they disappear signify that the helmet is oriented with the coupon correctly. If the problem persists, press the AR button to perform a lighting calibration. You can also experiment with different brightness levels for the lights on the front of the helmet.
* If at any point an unfamiliar alert pops up on the screen, consult the Ace or the user manual to determine the severity of the error and how to fix it.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
Besides occasionally updating software, the only required maintenance is general cleaning. General cleaning consists of wiping dust off the machine when needed, making sure the space is kept neat and tidy, and make sure all cords and torches are in their place.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General cleaning
|After each use or as needed
|Student
|-
|Update Software
|Whenever a new version of software is released
|ACE
|}

Vacuum Former

2021-07-22T18:05:25Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
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|Has icon=File:Vacuum Former.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Formech.jpg
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1305
|Has make=Formech
|Has model=508DT
|Has serial number=2728
|Has ace=Nathan Bodenman;nbodenman18@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Formech 508DT Vacuum Former is a plastic molding machine that utilizes heat and a vacuum to stretch heated plastic over a mold. The vacuum former is great for thin plastic molds, although there are some limitations on the shape and size. The max dimensions for the mold are 17”x19” with a depth of 7.3". The max thickness for the plastic sheet is 0.25" Molds can be made from many types of materials. It's fairly common to see molds made from wood. Molds need to have some draft so they can be removed from the plastic.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PL9xER4K4UWLuBZ1cCeyQFBH4FluaSZDel&v=J0YR0MpKcPI}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

* '''Table-''' The bed that the mold rests on.
* '''Clamp Frame-''' The metal bars that captivate the plastic sheet as its heated and stretched over the mold.
* '''Toggle Clamp Screws-'''
*'''Draft Angle-''' The wall angle of a mold. This helps in removing the plastic off the mold.
Knowing what the different buttons in the touchscreen operation mean is important in operating the vacuum former. The three primary ones are heat , vacuum , and release . For a full list, refer to the manual.

Manual [[Media:Manual-508DT.pdf]]

==Training==
====Operation====

The vacuum former can mold up to a 19"x17" square and to a depth of 7.3".

Molds must slant outwardly slightly to ensure that they can be popped out of the plastic after molding is finished.

====Demonstration====

You will need to demonstrate the safe setup and use of the belt/disc sander. You will be sketching an arc onto a piece of scrap material and sanding up to the line using the disc and belt. Make sure to keep the material moving to prevent burning and tearing of the sanding belt/disc.

====Operation====

[[File:Formech_Controls.JPG|none|thumb|600x600px]]

== Operation ==
* Place a mold into the tray and lower it.
* Mold cannot be concave and must slant outwards slightly or it will not be removable from the plastic.
* Place plastic into the clamps ensuring it completely covers the white seals.
* Turn on the heaters. They should take about 15 minutes to warm up.
* Lift the table.
* Turn on the vacuum.
* Let the plastic cool, then hit the release button.
* Lower the table to remove the plastic.
* Reset the table.

==Safety==
* Parts of the machine can reach over 300 degrees C. Don't touch the heater or heat shield surrounding the heater.
* Never put your hand in a position it could be pinched by the molding frame.
* The formed plastic is very hot and sticky. It could stick to you and continue to burn if you touch it.
* Some types of plastics could give off toxic fumes when heated. Check the SDS before working with materials you are unfamiliar with.

==Certification==
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1305 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
Make sure to put draft on your form to prevent sticking.
If the plastic is not hot enough it won't pull down over the form.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Replace sanding Belt/Pad
|As Needed
|Ace/Tech
|}

Photo Table

2021-07-22T18:04:38Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
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|Is located in facility=The Vault
|Is used in domain=
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Photo Booth.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:3D-PhotoBench-260.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Ortery PhotoBench-260
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1325
|Has make=Ortery
|Has model=3D PhotoBench 260
|Has serial number=1260110014004
|Has ace=Needed;Needed
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Photo Table, or Photobench as called by its manufacturer Ortery, is a device which links to a lab PC specifically designated for this device and enables users to take still photos, 360 photos, and videos of various products and items on flat white backgrounds like the ones you see online for products you might view on a daily basis. If you have ever wondered how those product pictures are taken, this is it. This makes the photo table perfect for creating professional grade product photos for projects and presentations.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5INCuPbASHw}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* Ortery Capture - This is the software that you will use to interact with the photo table in order to adjust the lighting, turntable, and take pictures.
*Canon 7D Mark II - This camera mounts on the side of the photo table and is used to take photos through the Ortery Capture software.
*360 - 360 degrees
'''[https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/w/images/d/d6/UserGuide_en.pdf User Manual]'''

==Training==
====Operation====

Confirm that the unit is plugged in and then turn on the photo table using the large red power switch. Note that nothing will happen when you turn on the switch until you are logged into Ortery Capture and that you will not be able to log into Ortery Capture unless the photo table is turned on. After the the table is turned on, log onto the computer next to it using your standard George Fox log in. You will need to log into Ortery capture as well. The username is Cameraman and the password is Nikond70. Once you are logged into Ortery capture the lights in the photo table should automatically turn on. Place the object you are trying to photograph onto the center of the turntable using the door on the right side of the machine. It is especially important to have the object centered on the turntable if taking 360 photos because otherwise it will appear to shift side to side instead of just spinning. Now you can set up the Canon 7D Mark II; there is an adjustable mount on the side of the photo table that holds the camera still during the photo process and can be adjusted to find the perfect angle. Finish the setup process by plugging the camera into the computer using a Usb cable. The rest of the process will take place in Ortery capture. There you can adjust the camera settings, light intensity and direction, and turntable to take the perfect picture. Once you are done with the photo table, reset the space by logging out, turning off the table, and cleaning out any debris from the table.

====Demonstration====
In order to use this device, you must be able to demonstrate the following:
# Set up the Ortery Photo Table and the software on the computer, along with connecting the camera and getting the settings dialed in.
# Set up the camera and object to be photographed.
# Take a 360 photo of the object.
# Export the file to a safe location for later access and use.

====General Procedure====
Setting up the Ortery:
# Plug in the Ortery Photo table, if it isn't already, and turn the power switch to on. This will not cause a dramatic change in the table but must be done so the software can recognize the it.
# Turn on the computer and log in using your normal George Fox log in.
# Open up the Ortery Capture software and log in. The username is Cameraman and the password is Nikond70. The home page should look something like this:[[File:Home screen.png|none|thumb|1040x1040px]]
# Use the provided USB cable to connect the Camera to the computer.
## Make sure when doing this, the camera is off while connecting the camera, and that the software is able to recognize the camera.
#Press the [capture] button to toggle the capture window shown below. Take some test shots using the [snap] button to ensure that the camera and the software are properly set up.[[File:Ortery capture screen.png|none|thumb|1079x1079px]]
Setting up the object to be Photographed:
# Make sure that the object is clean and free of any debris. This will allow for not only a cleaner photo, but will also help with keeping the Photo table clean.
# Open up the small front door or the larger door on the right side of the photo table if the camera is already set up on the front part of the photo table.
# Place the object in the center of the table. It is important to be in the center so that the object will appear to spin in place in 360 photos instead of shifting side to side while spinning.
# Close the side or front door.
Capturing images of the product:
# In the Ortery software, open up a new capture and the camera settings panel will open up.
# Customize the camera settings (aperture, shutter speed, etc) as well as the table lighting to achieve the desired appearance. This is done done from the capture window and the video below walks through this as well.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gdacoh3xKMI&t=5s}}
# Press capture to take photos.

==Safety==
* For this machine, you want to make sure that you are treating all the equipment with respect and ensure that all things are secured before you proceed to any new step or moving around, as it is expensive.
* With the rotating table, if you have long hair, make sure that it is out of the way of the table; although it won’t kill you, it can still cause problems and cause some injuries if you’re not careful.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1325 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
* Lights aren't turning on and the photo table is on - You must log into Ortery Capture before they will turn on, even if the table is powered on.
* Background looks dark/spotty - Make sure the turntable is clean and adjust the different lights and brightness.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
The purpose of the photo table is to take product photos on white backgrounds and as a result it is important to keep the inside of the table clean to make sure the white surfaces stay that way. This is not difficult to do. Simply wipe out the the table with a paper towel if there is anything on the table. It may be helpful to use some cleaner from the prototype lab as well.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completed
|-
|Clean out and debris from the photo table
|Check after each use and perform as necessary
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Inspect lights and replace as needed
|Every two months. Refer to the user manual for instructions on replacing a light
|Ace
|
|}

Jewelry Station

2021-07-22T18:03:29Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=The Vault
|Is used in domain=Metal
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File: Jewelry_stationIcon.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:115835.jpg
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1261
|Has make=Jason's Works
|Has model=Master Deluxe Kit
|Has ace= Whitney Mayforth; wmayforth19@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|500px|right|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

This Jewelry Station is a set that allows one to turn a coin into a fashionable ring for either yourself or a loved one. Through a process of punching of hole size reductions, forming and polishing, it will bring forth a finished masterpiece in the shape of the ring that you can be forever proud of.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

User Manual (You can get one for $20 from Jason's Works)

[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRjgtgFUD2y2fZ7Q0wQxnlA More techniques and skills]

==Training==
====Operation====
There are a wide variety of videos on ring making. The basic process is composed of 4 main steps:
# Punching a hole
# Folding the coin
# Stretching the coin
# Sizing the ring

At various points in the process the metal should be annealed to prevent the metal from becoming too brittle due to cold working. When the coin should be annealed is somewhat subject and no exact rule exists. The hardness of the coin will depend on the type and the year it was minted. For example, silver half dollars minted up to 1964 are made with more silver and less copper than silver half dollars minted afterwards.

The steps below can be found in the video below called "The basics of starting a coin ring" from Jason himself:
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htO9uEI6HPw The basics of starting a coin ring]

====Demonstration====

Make a ring.

====General Procedure====
* Punching the hole:
** To begin this process, you want to begin by annealing the selected coin. If you haven't annealed before, it would be best to get a shop supervisor who knows what they're doing to help you out. It might also help to first do this in a darker room to know about how long to heat the coin up for until you see a slight glow. Over heating the coin can cause deformities, and you sure don't want that.
** After annealing the coin, proceed to the coin holder (the giant brass screwy thing) and open it up to find the best fitting spacer to center the coin to the best of your ability. No coin is perfectly circular, so don't waste your time here. Before you actually proceed to punch the hole, make sure to screw the top back into place, and then take the punch (flat side up) and slide it into the hole on top of the coin press.
*** In order to get a more secure fit, you can use a paper towel to go around the spacer.
** After everything is in place, using a hammer, slowly hammer the punch through the coin until you feel it give. You don't want to punch it all the way through to the bottom of the press for this might ruin this glorious device.
** You then want to use a rubber or wooden mallet to hammer the punch back out.
*** For safety reasons, you will want to de-burr the punched hole to avoid cuts.
* Folding the coin:
** '''Before you begin to do this, it is highly recommended to anneal the coin to make it more malleable.'''
** In order to fold the coin, take one of the reduction dyes and find one that fits, but is bigger than the coin. For example, it's recommended to use the 1.3 - 1.4 17 degree dye for a half-dollar, and go down the sizes to eventually fold the ring over.
*** '''It is important to note that you don't want to fold the coin all the way straight just yet, as it will make it more difficult to reduce down the size later!'''
* Stretching the coin:
** Once you have folded the coin over, it's time to take it to the "stretching tower," again, using a paper towel to protect the details of the coin.
** To begin, you want to measure the coin's current size using the sizing rod, measuring from the smallest side first. Once you have measured the ring's current size, you want to figure out what your target size is and make sure that you stretch the coin one or two sizes bigger (you will be sizing the coin down to the target size).
*** '''As you are working through this, you may want to anneal the coin here and there, making sure that the coin does not become too hard and stiff to work with, causing it to crack like dry skin on a freezing day.'''
* Sizing the ring:
** From here, take some reduction dyes and size and choose accordingly to reduce the size of the bigger end of the ring, using the press to slowly press the ring into the dye, reducing it. '''Make sure that you are always reducing form the wider side of the ring!'''
** As you are making progress here, make sure to check the ring's size using the sizing rod, and anneal as the coin becomes harder to work with, and '''don't get lazy here. It's better to spend more time annealing and softening the coin rather than having the coin crack and you losing all your hard work!'''
** You will want to think of it as "kneading" the coin into the right shape and size--gentle and slow, making sure that it's done properly or you'll pay the consequences!
* Finishing
** After you have completed all these steps, it's time to finish your ring. There's many ways that you can do this, and it's all up to you; you can either polish it, sand it, use black max to make the features pop, or just keeping it rustic if your heart desires it to be that way. Regardless, you will have successfully created your first (or maybe hundredth ring)!

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1261 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Injection Molding Machine

2021-07-22T18:00:27Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=The Vault
|Is used in domain=
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:image_pending.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has image=File:Model 150a.jpg
|Has imagedesc=LNS 150A
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1280
|Has make=Pim-shooter
|Has model=150A
|Has serial number=D00709
|Has ace=Samuel Reimer;sreimer18@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Model 150A PIM-SHOOTER™ by LNS Technologies is a bench model injection molder designed for production of thermoplastic parts in quantities required for making prototypes and low-volume production (or higher-volume production of small parts). Due to the machine’s small size it is limited to producing small parts, but it is capable of producing these parts efficiently, accurately (as accurate as the mold is), and repeatedly. The plastic shot size is 1.1 cubic inch Max.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_UnthpIA0w&feature=youtu.be}}
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LU3Dzl0iGg&feature=youtu.be}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
'''Flash -''' This is when the two halves of a molding tool are not properly sealed, causing molten plastic to leak out of the part cavity

'''Sprue -''' The main channel guiding the molten plastic from the nozzle of the injection molder into the part cavity.

'''Runners -''' Subchannels that branch off from the sprue and into the part cavities. These are used for mold tools that contain multiple part cavities.

'''Gate - '''The thin section connecting a runner or sprue to the part cavity

'''Shot -''' The volume of material needed to fill the mold cavity.
[[File:...injectionMolderTerms.png|none|thumb|469x469px]]

Manual [[Media:Manual_InjectionMolder.pdf]]

==Training==
====Operation====

The injection molder works by melting plastic pellets within a heated barrel to a specific temperature, and using a ram plunger to force the molten plastic through a nozzle, into a mold cavity.

====Demonstration====

For the injection molder demonstration, a pre-existing mold will be provided and the person must successfully injection mold the part. They should demonstrate proper adjustment of height to fit the mold, setting up for injection (filling the hopper, setting the temperature, and aligning the mold under the nozzle), injecting, and removal of the mold and part from the mold.

====General Procedure====
# Setup
## You will need to setup the molding machine using the following steps and charts. Temperatures for different plastics can be found in the table below. Make sure to wear gloves and safety glasses while using this machine.[[File:...injectionTemperatureChart.png|none|thumb|373x373px]] [[File:Temp_Controller.JPG|600px|thumb|none]]
## First we need to adjust the height for the mold being used by following these steps.
### Set the mold clamps to measure the gap.
### Loosen the height adjustment bolts on the top holder using a 6mm Allen Wrench.
### Loosen both tension nuts, and turn the lower tension nut to move the top holder up and down the main post. This will determine the height of the machine.
### Raise or lower the top holder so that there is a gap between the nozzle and the mold sprue (this allows adding and removing the mold), but of no more than ½”.
### Tighten height adjustment bolts, and verify that the nozzle aligns well with the mold sprue.
### Tighten the upper and lower tension nuts.
# Molding
## Turn on the power switch.
## Make sure the SV value is correct on the temp controller for the type of material you are using. Adjust the temp controller using the setting buttons if the SV value needs adjusting.
## Wait for the PV value to reach the SV value.
## Now add pellets to the feeder.
## Wait several minutes for the pellets to melt. If you want to preheat the mold now is the time.
## You should see a small amount of plastic ooze from the nozzle
## Make sure the mold is clamped tight and the nozzle nipple is aligned with the mold sprue.
## Scrape away any oozing plastic from the nozzle using a screwdriver or similar tool. This helps keep plastic chunks out of the mold.
## With a smooth linear motion push down on the handle and fill the mold.
## Hold pressure on the handle for an extra few seconds. This will help reduce shrinking of the plastic in the mold.
## Retract the handle all of the way to remove the plunger and give access to load more pellets.
## You can now remove the mold and separate the halves.

==Safety==
*Parts of the injection molding machine get very hot and could burn you. You need to wear gloves while working with the machine and molds.
*Never attempt to use PVC or other materials not approved for use with this machine. PVC will produce toxic fumes when heated.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1280 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
It may take some time to learn how much pressure to apply to the handle when filling a mold. If you press too hard you will end up with lots of plastic flash on your finished piece as material will ooze out between the mold halves. If you don't press hard enough you could end up with an air pocket left in the mold.

If you run into an issue with the material not flowing properly make sure that you are heating the material to the correct temperature and allowing enough time for the plastic to melt.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The machine should to be cleaned on a regular basis and mechanical parts should be checked for wear as well as loosening of any parts.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Clean up plastic overflow
|When used
|Student
|}

High Speed Camera

2021-07-22T17:59:44Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
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|Is located in facility=The Vault
|Is used in domain=
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:High_speed_cameraIcon.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Chronos.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Chronos 1.4
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1302
|Has make=Chronos
|Has model=CH14-1.0-32C
|Has serial number=00902
|Has ace=Matthew Martin;mmartin18@georgefox.edu

}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

The Cronos is a high speed camera that allows the recording of video with very high framerates, up to 1057FPS at 1280x1024, or 38,500FPS at decreased resolutions. At these high framerates, events that are too fast to be seen with the naked eye can be studied in detail. Video can be saved in RAW, CinemaDNG, or H.264 codecs.

Here is an example of this camera being used.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HBlYfezY2A}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

* FPS - Frames per second, also known as frame rate; a measure of how quickly the camera captures images. Standard frame rates are between 24 and 60FPS. The Cronos is capable of filming at up to 38,500FPS.
* Exposure - How long a frame of video is actually gathering light, given in seconds. This is called Shutter Speed on most consumer cameras.
* Analog Gain - Called ISO in consumer cameras, digitally controls the brightness of the image. More gain means a brighter image, but also more noise (manifests as grain, especially noticeable in dark areas of the image). For the best image quality, use a low gain and compensate by increasing the amount of light where you’re filming or open the aperture if the image is too dark.
* Aperture - Measures the diameter of the lens's iris, given in F-stops (F1.4, F2.8, F4, etc.). The lower the number, the larger the diameter of the iris (called a wider or more open aperture) and the more light that hits the sensor. A wider aperture also decreases the depth of field (how much is in focus at a time), making the background blurry. This is bad if you are trying to film a lot of things far away from each other, but good if you need lots of light and are only filming one thing.
* H.264 - A common video encoding standard used commonly in online video. Generally you want to pick this one.
* Focus Peaking - A feature that makes it easier to see what is in focus. Highlights edges that are in focus in a color (usually red).

[[File:Pasted image2.jpg|none|thumb|400x400px]]

* White Balance - Controls the color temperature of light the camera is filming, measured in degrees kelvin. (Seriously, color temperature was originally defined by the color of light a bar of lead glows with at a particular temperature) Incandescent lights are around 3200K, outdoor daylight is around 5900K, LED lighting is around 5600K. Generally just adjust this by eye. If the image appears too blue, increase the color temperature. If the image appears too orange, decrease the color temperature. If adjusted correctly, white objects in the image should appear, well… white.

[[File:Color Temp.jpg|none|thumb|400x400px]]

* Trigger - Tells the camera when to stop recording. High speed cameras are always recording, and only stop and save video when stopped.
* Ring buffer - The camera records frames in a “ring”, with each frame filling a new spot on the ring. When the ring is full, the next frame overwrites the first frame in the buffer. Each subsequent frame is also overwritten. This means you can start recording whenever you want, and the camera will only save the buffer when you press the trigger. By default, when you press the trigger it immediately stops recording. By going to the Trigger Delay menu, you can change it so the camera continues to record after you press the trigger (this does not work for the red record button).

[[File:Ring buffer.jpg|none|thumb|400x400px]]

User Manual
Chronos 1.4
[https://www.krontech.ca/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/Chronos-1.4-2.1-HD-User-Manual-Full-version-Software-Version-0.5.1.pdf User Manual]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Chronos 1.4 captures and saves high frame rate video, also known as high-speed or slow-motion. This can be used to study things that are too fast to be seen by the unaided eye.

====Demonstration====

Before using the camera, students will perform a short in-person training session after passing the FOXTale quiz. General procedures and expectations for equipment care will be reviewed. Students should be familiar with the operation of the camera and be ready to demonstrate this by setting up and capturing some video following the General procedure below.

====General Procedure====

This section is meant to provide a brief overview of operating the Chronos 1.4. For a more detailed explanation of the camera, its features, and options/menus please consult the user’s manual.

To capture high speed video with the Chronos

1. Attach the camera to a tripod and turn the camera on. Give it a minute to warm up (especially if it’s cold)

2. Set your desired frame rate in the Record Settings menu based on how fast the thing you’re trying to film is.

3. Set Aperture (dial on the lens) and Gain (Record Settings menu) so the image is properly exposed (not too bright, not too dark)

4. Set White Balance in the “Set White Balance” menu. Either make an educated guess, or hold up a white object in front of the camera and press “Set Custom White Balance”.

5. Perform a black calibration. Place the lens cap on the lens and press the Black Cal button in the main menu. Ideally the camera should run for 15-20 minutes before performing a Black Cal to let the sensor get up to temperature. NOTE: Doing a Black Cal will discard any unsaved footage

6. Change your trigger settings if using an external trigger or want to set up trigger delay

7. Press the red record button to start recording. Make sure your image is properly exposed and that your subject is in focus. Anything in focus will be highlighted in red with focus peaking. NOTE: Pressing record will discard any unsaved footage

8. Trigger the camera when ready, the camera will stop recording or continue to record for a short period of time depending on your trigger settings. The camera can be triggered by using the red record button or external trigger. Note that trigger delay settings will not apply to the red record button.

9. The footage in memory will be shown on the screen. You can press and hold the right arrow to play the footage forward. Play rate should usually be set to 30fps.

10. To reduce file size, set start and end markers before saving. Do this by scrolling the playback slider (goes from bottom to top) to the start of the part you want to keep and press “Mark Start”, then scroll to the end of the part you want to keep and click “Mark End”. The portion that will be saved is highlighted in red next to the playback slider. Then click Save. Once saved, the red will turn to green, indicating that it is safe to capture footage again.

11.Make sure to safely eject your storage media before removing it from the camera. This can be done by going to the Play menu and clicking Settings, then “Safely Remove”

12. When finished using the camera, press the power button to turn off the camera. Do not hold the power button for more than 4 seconds. This will cause a forced shutdown, which could corrupt the camera’s internal memory. Only perform a forced shutdown if the camera becomes completely unresponsive to touchscreen input.

13. Return the camera to its case, nicely coil trigger and power cables and place those in the case as well.

==Safety==
There is almost nothing you could do that would result in injury from using the high speed camera. Obviously things you could be filming (e.g. explosions) could be dangerous, and you must use common sense in what you decide to place in front of the camera. In most every situation, the camera is at risk of damage more than you are. Always observe the following precautionary guidelines when using the camera.

*The camera should always be securely mounted or held so it is not at risk of falling/being knocked over
*If there’s risk of things flying and hitting the camera, it should be behind a shield
*Don’t set down or store the camera in an environment that could damage it. Examples include outdoors when raining, in direct sunlight, on rough surfaces, or in places where things could fall/knock against the camera
*Don’t put any stress on the lens, the mount is fragile
*If the lens is ever disconnected, the sensor cap must be immediately attached
*When not being used, the camera should be stored in its pelican case with latches secured. Latches should always be secured, even if you’re coming right back!

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1302 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
This table is from the User's manual. Depending on the severity of the problem and solution required, contact the Ace for assistance.

{| class="wikitable"
!Symptom
!Possible Problem
!Solution
|-
| rowspan="3" | Camera won’t turn on
| No power || Insert battery or connect to mains power using power adapter.
|-
| Crash || Remove battery and AC adapter for 10 seconds, then reconnect and power on.
|-
| AC Adapter voltage wrong || Ensure that AC adapter is providing between 17 and 20V DC, positive tip.
|-
| rowspan="2" | Battery won't charge
| Battery inserted after AC connected || Unplug AC adapter from camera then replug.
|-
| AC Adapter voltage wrong || Ensure that AC adapter is providing between 17 and 20V DC, positive tip.
|-
| Battery indicator drops very fast || Low quality or failing battery || Replace battery.
|-
| rowspan="2" | Power status indicator flashes red/green continuously
| Power controller in recovery mode || Turn camera off, then remove the battery and disconnect AC adapter for 10 seconds. When reconnecting power or inserting battery, ensure power button is not pressed until after the LED flashing stops.
|-
| Power controller firmware corrupt || If the above does not fix the problem, contact Kron Technologies for assistance. A power controller recovery update may need to be applied.
|-
| Horizontal or vertical lines show up in video || Black cal not done after changing shutter speed (especially at resolutions below 1280 pixels horizontal) || Perform black cal after every shutter speed or resolution change.
|-
| Extremely blurry image, can't get close to proper focus. Except possibly when lens zoomed in || Incorrect lens adapter installed || Check if lens is CS or C mount to determine proper adapter to use.
|-
| rowspan="2" | Focus slightly wrong, proper focus out of range
| Backfocus misadjusted || Readjust backfocus, see Backfocus Adjustment section in User Manual.
|-
| Lens limitation || The Computar 12.5-75mm lens as well as some others are slightly soft at fully wide aperture. Close aperture slightly and retry. Try f/2 or smaller.
|-
| rowspan="2" | Lens doesn't maintain consistent focus while zooming
| Backfocus misadjusted || Readjust backfocus, see Backfocus Adjustment section in User Manual.
|-
| Lens is not parfocal || Some lenses, especially lower end lenses such as the 6-60mm and 2.8- 12mm lenses, do not maintain focus during zoom, Focus needs to be adjusted after zooming.
|-
| Black ring around image || Lens too small for sensor || Some lenses (such as the 6-60mm and 2.8-12mm lenses) don't cover the full image sensor. The black ring around the outside is called Vignetting. Change to a different lens to eliminate.
|-
| Negative ghost image visible over normal image || Black cal done without lens cap on or with aperture open || Perform black cal again by closing aperture fully, or covering lens.
|}

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Everyone who uses the camera should make sure the camera body and lens are clean when finished. The camera should be cleaned using a clean, lint-free or microfiber cloth optionally with isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol on the cloth. Don’t use so much alcohol as to soak into the camera. The screen can be cleaned with a lint-free or microfiber cloth and a small amount of glass cleaner or isopropyl. Cleaners should not be sprayed directly on the camera, instead apply to the cloth.

The IR filter can be cleaned if it becomes very dirty. This should only be done by the ace or other qualified individual.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Cleaning Lens
|As needed
|Ace
|}

3D Scanners

2021-07-22T17:57:18Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=The Vault
|Is used in domain= Plastic
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has serial number=10.48856676 / 30.67367115
|Has icon=File:3D_scannersIcon.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Artec-spider-and-eva.jpg
|Has imagedesc= Artec Spider & Eva
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1308
|Has make=Artec
|Has model=Spider & Eva
|Has ace=Klayton Rhoads;krhoads16@georgefox.edu

}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==
'''Spider''':
A new and enhanced precision instrument for CAD users and engineers, Artec Space Spider is a high-resolution 3D scanner based on blue light technology. It is perfect for capturing small objects or intricate details of large industrial objects in high resolution, with steadfast accuracy and brilliant color.
The scanner’s ability to render complex geometry, sharp edges and thin ribs sets our technology apart. It is an ideal industrial 3D scanner for high resolution capturing of objects such as molding parts, PCBs, keys, coins or even a human ear, followed by the export of the final 3D model to CAD software.

'''Eva''':
This structured light 3D scanner is the ideal choice for making a quick, textured and accurate 3D model of medium sized objects such as a human bust, an alloy wheel, or a motorcycle exhaust system. It scans quickly, capturing precise measurements in high resolution.
Light, fast and versatile, Eva is our most popular scanner and a market leader in handheld 3D scanners. Based on safe-to-use structured light scanning technology, it is an excellent all round solution for capturing objects of almost any kind, including objects with black and shiny surfaces.
Artec Eva’s ease of use, speed and precision has made it an essential product for a wide range of industries. From rapid prototyping to quality control, CGI to heritage preservation, the automotive industry to forensics, medicine and prosthetics to aerospace, the device is used to customize, innovate and streamline countless forward-thinking industries. Eva was even used to scan Barack Obama and help make the very first 3D portrait of an American president.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KRxBuCYidsI}}

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wT2SRzSDEBo}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

STL - A file format made up of surface geometry. This is a common file type for use with 3D printing.

[https://www.artec3d.com/files/pdf/artec_studio_userguide_en.pdf User Manual]

==Training==
====Operation====

The first step is to determine which scanner is correct for the job you will be doing. The spider is normally used when you need more detail and are dealing with smaller objects as the EVA is better for larger projects. When setting up the scanners you will need to connect the USB and power cord. There are two videos provided to get you started using the software. Make sure to move the scanner in a slow pattern and keep your arm and wrist flexible rather than rigid. You will find it easier to control the scanner if you watch the computer screen rather than staring at the object being scanned. Using a turn table will help keep the scanner aligned with the object being scanned. You can flip the part over if needed to scan the underside. The software does an amazing job of alignment.

====Demonstration====

Complete a scan of a small object like a Lego.

====General Procedure====

1. Choose which scanner you are going to use. The Spider can pick up more detail but has a small field of vision. Consequently, this is a good choice for smaller objects with many details. This scanner works best when it is held still while the object is rotated. When scanning larger objects like people this scanner is more difficult to use because of this field of vision. The Eva is not as detailed as the spider but is designed for larger objects and has a larger field of view. When scanning, it works well to walk around the object while scanning.

2. Plug the desired scanner into the computer and open the artec studios software.

3. Plug in scanner power and USB cables

4. Open Artec Studio

5. For Space Spider, wait for current temperature to reach optimal temperature range in order for accuracy to be at its best.

6. Press the rocker switch or slider up in order to enter preview mode

7. When scanning, make sure that the blue distance waveform is within the three green regions on the distance meter in order to get the best results.

[[File:Scan_Graph.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px]]

8. Adjust texture brightness until detail is visible but colors are not blown out. This will need to be adjusted for each object scanned.

9. When scanning shiny or dark objects with the Space Spider, it may be necessary to adjust the sensitivity for the object to be scanned correctly. However, increasing the sensitivity will cause the scanner to capture more noise, increasing processing time. As a rule of thumb, don’t increase the sensitivity over 1/4 of the bar’s range. This step is not necessary with the Eva.

10. If speed is more important than accuracy, check the Real-time fusion box to make Artec Studio render the model in real time, removing the rendering step that is usually necessary after scanning.

11. For some objects, such as larger floorstanding objects, it may be helpful to check the Enable automatic base removal box in order to remove the base from the model during processing.

12. If scanning a smaller object, it is much easier to place the object on a turntable and scan it there.

13. Press the up button again to begin scanning the object.

14. While scanning, watch the computer screen to make sure that the distance from the scanner to the object is within the green range and that the object is at the center of the field of view.

15. Move the scanner all the way around the object with smooth motion, capturing as many different angles as possible. Once you have captured all you can with the object in its current position, press the down button on the scanner to stop, turn the object onto a different side, and repeat the scanning process.

16. Once you have captured enough angles, click on the Autopilot button on the left, select all the scans you would like to use, and adjust the scan quality values, following the in-software suggestions. Then click Next

17. If you did not select automatic base removal, or if there are extraneous objects that need to be removed, edit the object. Otherwise, skip the following step.

18. In the editing pane, select Cutoff-plane selection and draw on the base you would like to remove. Then, click next.

19. If alignment does not work properly, move the models next to each other and select several points, once on one model and once on the other, so that Artec Studio knows how to align the models.

20. Once alignment is complete, go to File/Export mesh and select the format to use for export.

==Safety==
The scanners are very fragile. Take care to prevent damage by dropping. Never pull on the scanner cords as the connectors could be easily damaged. Keep your fingers off of the optical lens as the grease from your fingers can cause issues.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1308 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Scanners should be wiped down with a dry cloth as needed. Avoid touching lens windows.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|N/A
|N/A
|N/A
|}

Wood Lathe

2021-07-22T17:55:04Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Wood Lathe.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Wood Lathe Photo.jpg
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1190
|Has make=TenkaTool
|Has model=Nova Galaxi DVR
|Has serial number=GL5663547
|Has ace=Josh Young;youngj17@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The wood lathe is a machine very similar to the metal lathe in the machine shop. It spins a piece of stock at a variable speed, and lets the turner create round objects. Unlike the metal lathe, there is not a cutter secured to the machine that is moved into place to cut. On the wood lathe, a turner will instead use long handled chisels to carve away the wood. Another difference is that for most projects, the wood is not clamped down in a found vise like the machining lathe, instead, two free-spinning center points on each side of the piece clamp the wood between them and hold it centered.

There are a wide variety of projects that can be done on the wood lathe, some easier than others, and all requiring a different need for skills and tools. This makes it hard sometimes to provide a common set of instructions, however, there some general safety rules and instructions for use that are used in any project on the lathe. The lathe can be fun to work with, but always remember, safety first.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mLuwcKNbtq8}}

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kunZIzNNxUY}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

* Spindle: The spinning portion in the drive head that rotates the work piece.

* Chisel: The hand held cutting tool used to remove material.

* Tool Rest - A bar used to support the cutting tool while removing material.

* Spur Center - A piece of steel that connects the drive spindle to the work piece.

* Live Center - A support piece that connects the work piece to the tail stock. The work piece is captured between the drive center and live center.

[https://www.teknatool.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/566-Galaxi-DVR-1644-manual_FINAL-Remote-II_23.July_.2018.pdf User Manual]

==Training==
====Operation====

The wood lathe is similar to the metal lathe in the Machine Shop. It can spin material at various speeds and allows the user to create cuts and round shapes. Unlike the metal lathe, there is not a built in tool holder. On the wood lathe, a turner will instead use a hand held chisel to carve away the wood. For most projects, the material on the wood lathe is held using two centers, one on each side of the work. The head stock side of the material is the driven side. When installing the spur center in hard wood you will need to saw two diagonal cuts and drill the center hole. If working with soft wood you can use a punch to locate the center and use a mallet to drive the spur center into the work piece. You will need to use the following chart for setting the correct turning speed.

[[File:Turning Speeds.JPG|600px|thumb|none]]

====Demonstration====

Demonstrate you can safely setup the lathe and make a snowman ornament out of wood! The goal is to shape the wood into 3 spheres that look like a snowman, no additional accessories like carrot noses and top hats are necessary.

====General Procedure====
# Select the stock size you need for your project and make it square using the table saw if needed. If the material is squared up it should run true on the lathe.
# Mark the center of both ends using a pencil and straight edge. Use a punch to indent both ends at the center marks. This will help locate the tooling and keep the part running true.[[File:...woodLathe1.png|300x300px|thumb|none]]
# Make sure to use the two point centers on the lathe and ensure the motor head is tight on the rails. If the tail stock or head is loose the work piece could fly out of the machine.
# Move the tail stock away from the head stock to provide clearance for the wood stock to fit between the head and tail stock. Lock the tail stock and use the center punch mark to line up the live center and spur center.
# As you Spin the handle on the tail stock the distance between the two centers will be reduced and capture the material. Keep the center punch marks lined up with the points on the centers until it pinches the work piece.
# When the spur center is engaged into the material lock the quill using the red handle handle located on top of the tail stock. Now your piece is secured![[File:...woodLathe2.png|none|thumb]]
# The tool rest should be placed roughly 1/4"or less from the stock.[[File:...woodLathe3.png|none|thumb]]
# The tool rest should be at a height so that the tool on top of the rest will be cutting at the middle of the stock.
# Always rotate the spindle by hand prior to applying power. This will help prevent crashing the work piece into the tool rest.
# Turn on the machine power switch located on the left end of the machine.
# Check the speed indicated on the display prior to pressing the green "ON" button. Use the speed chart for settings. Its always better to start at a slow speed and adjust as needed.
# Adjust the spindle speed as needed using the black knob.
# Use the gouge to slowly begin chipping away the wood. Make sure the chisel is pressed firmly onto the tool rest and you are holding the handle tight into your core.
# Slowly push the chisel into the material until it begins chipping at the wood.
# Start cutting down the high parts of the material or towards the middle if it’s all even. Move the chisel towards the end, chipping away little bits of wood at a time.
# Smooth out the wood, chipping away until you make a cylinder.
# Once you have the cylinder, choose one end to be the head.
# Gradually narrow down to a cone shape, then cut away material to make the three spheres of the snowman’s body.
# After the shape is done, sand the piece, progressively finer grit until smooth.
# Take the piece off, cut any remaining material and sand the mount points smooth.
# Reset the space.

==Safety==
*Don't wear anything that could get caught in the lathe. An example of items would be bracelets, lanyards, hair below the shoulders, etc.

*If you have questions make sure to ask a supervisor. The shop supervisors are skilled and are glad to give advice.

*The most common issue with safety is digging the chisel in too hard. If it is dug in too hard, it can get caught and cause a dangerous situation.
*When sanding make sure to remove the tool rest. This will eliminate a possible pinch point.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1190 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
If the lathe is sounding funny, tell the shop volunteer/supervisor so we can get that checked out.

If you feel like you're losing grip on the chisel while shaving it down, chances are that you are digging in too hard. Lighten up a little, and be patient.

If it doesn't seem to be cutting well, first check the tool's sharpness before digging in deeper. If the tool is not sharp, notify the shop volunteer/supervisor and grab another chisel that is sharp.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The wood lathe has few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General Cleaning, vacuum shavings and dust
|Before and after each use
|Student
|-
|Check tightness of bolts, lubricate with 1 or 2 drops of lightweight oil on tailstock quill threads, index pin, and Toolslide camshaft and Toolslide front camshaft bore
|Monthly
|Ace
|-
|Lubricate tailstock Slot with 1 or 2 drops of lightweight oil
|Every 6 Months
|Ace
|}

Wood Drill Press

2021-07-22T17:53:49Z

Cpainter17:

[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has icon=File:wood_drill_press_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Wood Drill Press icon
|Has iconwname=File:wood_drill_press_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:wood_drill_press_image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Nova Voyager dvr Drill Press
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1266
|Has group=Woodworking
|Has make=Tenka Tool
|Has model=Nova Voyager DVR
|Has serial number=301545
|Has ace=Needed;Needed
}}[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

This drill press is set on a fixed stand and is used for drilling holes in wood. It has been programmed with various material and bit profiles to make setting the speed extremely simple. Compatible materials include wood, metal, plastics, and glass.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8NTL8bPm7A}}
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oIhACZl9ylE}}

==Terminology/Anatomy==

'''Workpiece''' – an object being worked on with a tool or machine. 

'''Drill (verb)''' - to bore a hole into the workpiece. 

'''Through Hole''' - a hole that goes completely through the workpiece. 

'''Blind Hole''' - a hole that goes partially through the workpiece. 

'''Feed Handle''' - a rotating three-pronged handle used to set the depth of the drill bit. 

 
* [https://www.teknatool.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/833-Voyager-Drill-Press-Manual-FINAL-version-20.Jul_.2018.pdf User Manual]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Wood Drill Press is mainly used for drilling holes into wood.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the Wood Drill Press, students will demonstrate that they can set up everything, and drill a through hole and a blind hole.

====General Procedure====
# Make sure you are wearing proper machine shop attire. (Safety glasses, rolled up or short sleeves, and closed toed shoes.)
# Make sure the drill press is turned off whenever you make adjustments to your workpiece.
# Mark your workpiece where the hole should be drilled, then use a hole starter to punch a hole for the drill bit if necessary.
# Put the appropriate drill bit into the chuck and use the chuck key on the drill press to tighten it. Make sure you tighten all three sides of the chuck. Chuck key on left, Chuck on right.[[File:...chuck.png|none|thumb]]
# Adjust the position of the table for your workpiece.
## The table height and rotational position can be adjusted using the handle on the column:
### Loosen the locking handle on the rear of the table bracket. NOTE: It is important to unlock this handle before adjusting the table.
### Rotate the crank handle attached to the rack to raise/lower the table to desired height.
### Swing the table around the column to the desired position.
### Re-tighten the locking handle, and ensure table is securely locked in place before drilling.
## To tilt the table:
### Loosen the bolt underneath the table using the 27mm closed end wrench included for this purpose.
### Loosen set screw underneath the previous bolt using 5mm Allen key.
### Tilt table to desired angle.
### Re-tighten bolt and set screw, and ensure table is securely locked in place before drilling.
## For blind holes, use the depth stop to stop the drill bit at the desired depth.
### Adjust the depth stop by rotating it until it is at the desired height.
#### For large adjustments, pressing the button on the depth stop enables it to move up and down freely.
### The lever to the right of the spindle may be used to lock the drill bit at a desired depth while you adjust the depth stop. (i.e. lock the drill bit at the depth you want, then move the depth stop to the corresponding position.)
#### Remember to unlock the lever prior to drilling.
# Line piece up with drill bit and fasten down onto work table using a clamp or vice. If drilling a through hole, put a piece of FLAT scrap wood under the piece being drilled to avoid a blowout.
# Turn power on using switch located on the right side of the machine as shown in the picture below. The yellow tab must be in place for the drill to be powered on.[[File:...voyagerthing.png|none|thumb]]
# Now the display screen should be on. Using the buttons, adjust the speed to the correct specifications needed to cut the material using the built-in computer.
## To use the speed chart:
### Go to the Menu > Speed Chart.
### Select the type of drill bit.
### Select the drill bit size.
### Select the work piece material.
### Confirm the new set speed.
### The display will return to the default screen with the new speed selected.
# After getting everything set up, turn the drill press on. (NEVER put your hand or any other body part in the path of the drill)
# Pull the lever to drill hole. (NEVER move workpiece while drilling a hole)
# Turn machine off before drilling next hole and when you are done drilling current hole.
# When done, remove drill bit. ( When loose, use one hand to unscrew and the other to hole the drill bit, so the drill bit does not fall and get damaged.)
# When done, return all burrowed equipment and clean work area.

==Safety==
* Make sure you are wearing proper attire. (Safety Glasses, Short Sleeves, Closed Toed Shoes, No jewelry or any loose hanging accessories, and hair that is longer than collar-length tied up)
* Keep body parts or anything else other than the workpiece out of the path of the drill bit when on.
* Do not move workpiece while drill bit is inside of workpiece.
* Make sure the drill bit is secure and fastened into the chuck.
* Make sure drill is at the appropriate speed.
* Keep work piece secure so it can't rotate. If the work is long enough it should stick out to the left side of the operator against the vertical column to prevent rotation.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1266 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
* It may be helpful to clamp down smaller work pieces to keep them from spinning while drilling a hole.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
Maintenance will be done to ensure the quality of the device. Tasks and their corresponding frequencies are listed below.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Clean area and Drill Press
|After each use
|Student
|-
|Wax exposed cast iron parts with paste wax
|Monthhly
|Ace
|-
|Lubricate gear and rack in the table elevation mechanism and the splines (grooves) in the spindle with a #2 tube grease, and lubricate the teeth of the feed shaft assembly and quill shaft with one or two drops of light weight oil.
|6 months
|Ace
|}

[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
This drill press is set on a fixed stand and is used for drilling holes in wood. It has been programmed with various material and bit profiles to make setting the speed extremely simple.

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==

* [https://www.teknatool.com/product/nova-voyager-dvr-variable-speed-drill-press-exclusive-amazon-bundle/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4PzDxsni2wIVFNNkCh3lBAcLEAAYASAAEgL5NvD_BwE Product Home Page]
* <figure-inline class="mw-default-size"><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline>[[File:wood_drill_press_operation_manual|220x220px]]</figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline>
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PvDExhAOC8 First look]

== Training ==
* <figure-inline class="mw-default-size"><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline>[[File:wood_drill_press_operation_manual|220x220px]]</figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline>

Vertical Wood Bandsaw

2021-07-22T17:52:53Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:wood_bandsaw_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Wood bandsaw icon
|Has iconwname=File:wood_bandsaw_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:wood_bandsaw.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Laguna Bandsaw
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1194
|Has make=Laguna
|Has model=mband 14BX220-250
|Has serial number=17063967
|Has ace=Needed;Needed
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The bandsaw is generally defined as a saw blade in the form of an endless steel band that rotates around two or more wheels. This blade is a continuous metal band with teeth on one side. As the wheels rotate, so does the band, which creates the continuous sawing action. Because the direction of the blade is always downward toward the table, there is little danger (except for special cuts) that the wood will be thrown back at the operator, which is called a kickback. For safety reasons many woodworkers prefer the bandsaw especially when cutting small pieces. The unique feature of the bandsaw is that the workpiece can be rotated around the blade creating a curve. It is the tool most often used when curves have to be cut in wood. Because the bandsaw blade is fairly thin, it can cut thick stock with a minimum of horsepower. For this reason the bandsaw is often used when valuable pieces of wood are made into a thin piece of veneer.

Although the bandsaw is usually associated with cutting curves, a variety of straight cuts are easily made with the saw. In fact, it is often used to rip wood because it is much safer than a radial arm saw and also has a smaller saw cut, so it wastes less wood. This becomes very important when using expensive wood where waste must be kept to a minimum. The cut is safer because the force of the cut is straight down on the table; the work cannot be pulled back or kicked back, which sometimes happens with table or radial arm saws. The bandsaw can also cut very thick stock, which the radial arm, or table saw cannot do. The disadvantage of cutting with the bandsaw is that the surface finish of the cut is not as good as with the table or radial arm saw.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDU_2sT0etc}}
==Documentation==

====Terminology====
[[File:...woodVerticalBandsawTerms.png|none|thumb]]

User Manual

==Training==
====Operation====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Demonstrate you can safely setup the saw and cut out a curved shape. After making the curved cut demonstrate using the fence to make a straight cut. A Training Venture (TV) that uses the {{PAGENAME}} is the [[Wooden Train Whistle]].

====General Procedure====
# Make sure the blade guides and fence are in place. These are meant to help your cut, so it is crucial that these are in place.
## Instructions on adjusting can be found in the manual, but they should be fine by default. The ace should take care of such issues.
### Blade guides (p. 33-34)
### Fence (p. 35-37)
# Adjust the upper blade guard so that it is just clearing the material being cut
# Make sure that the cutting teeth are facing down since the blade moves downward. Otherwise, it will not cut.
# Make sure that the blade has been properly tensioned (blade doesn’t have slack) and tracked (blade moves evenly and consistently as the wheels turn, doesn’t wander back and forth)
## Instructions on tensioning (p. 30) and tracking (p. 29) can be found in the manual
# Make sure the proper size and type of blade is in use
##[[File:...woodVerticalBandsawKerf.png|none|thumb]]
## Blade help is in the manual (p. 38-42)
# Turn the saw on. ‘1’ turns on, ‘0’ turns off. [[File:...woodVerticalBandsawOnOff.png|none|thumb]]
# Hold the workpiece firmly against the table, flat side down.
# Push material into blade at a moderate pace, using a push stick if necessary at the end of the cut.
# Turn the machine off once the cut is complete.
# Remove the workpiece and reset the space.

==Safety==
# Don’t feed anything into the blade you don’t want cut. First off, it makes no sense and it could pull other stuff into the midst, like your own body. That isn't a good scenario, so let's prevent that.
# Plan out your cut before making it. Wasting material isn't a good idea, and it's more time consuming when you mess up.
# Don't try to cut too tight of radius. See the blade curve chart before cutting curves.
# Use a push stick to keep your fingers at least 3" from the blade.
# Keep hands and fingers out of the "danger zone" in front of the blade.
# Hold work piece firmly on the table.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1194 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# Suppose the bandsaw will not start.
## Check that the E-stop is fully pulled out.
## Check that the electrical power cord is plugged into the power outlet.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Little maintenance is needed to upkeep the Wood Vertical Bandsaw. Refer to the table below for specific tasks.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General Cleaning
|After each use
|Student
|-
|Blade Change
|When Dull
|Ace
|-
|Rotate back blade guard 15 degrees
|Every 8 hours of use
|Ace
|}

Table Saw

2021-07-22T17:51:51Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:table_saw_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Table Saw icon
|Has iconwname=File:table_saw_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:table_saw.png
|Has imagedesc=SawStop Table Saw
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1262
|Has description=True
|Has make=SawStop
|Has model=PCS31230
|Has serial number=P171131184
|Has ace=Noah Burlingame;nburlingame18@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The table saw is a fundamental part of any woodshop and can be used for cutting wood or acrylic. There are two basic cuts that are normally performed. A rip cut is made along the grain and a cross cut is done perpendicular to the the grain. A fence is used to keep the material straight when pushing material through the saw. While the saw is usually used for cutting the long side of material, jigs and tools are also available for doing cross-cuts on the table saw. Fixtures make sure the material stays in place as it’s pushed through and helps keep it straight.

The SawStop table saw has a unique safety feature. A spring loaded cartridge is located in the machine. Any conductive material that makes contact with the blade fires and jams the cartridge block into the blade. The blade then stops spinning and drops down out of the way into the body of the saw. All this happens within 5 milliseconds, helping to ensure the blade inflicts minimal damage. If the material you are cutting is wet or has gold paint or leaf it will most likely trigger the saw stop feature. Do not cut any wet lumber or metal coated materials with this machine. Charcoal is also conductive so any laser cut areas of lumber should not make contact with the blade while cutting.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNKqNFnWQPs}}

==Documentation==

[https://www.sawstop.com/images/uploads/manuals/PCS%20Owners%20Manual%20Model%20PCS31230%20V5.0%2009-13.pdf User Manual]
====Terminology====

* Rip - Cuts made along the length of the wood.
* Cross-cut - Cuts made across the grain along the shorter side of the wood.
* Push stick - A piece of wood or plastic used to push the wood being cut through the blade while keeping fingers away from the blade.
* Fence - A guide for measuring the cut and guiding the wood.
* Riving Knife - A flat metal device that mounts behind the saw blade. This device prevents material from closing up on the blade and causing a dangerous condition called a material kickback.
* Sled - A fixture that is placed on top of the table to assist with cross cuts. The sled keeps material perpendicular to the blade and helps to prevent the blade from kicking back material.

==Training==
====Operation====

The SawStop table saw has a unique safety feature. A spring loaded cartridge is located in the machine. Any conductive material that makes contact with the blade causes the aluminum cartridge block to fire into the blade. The blade then stops spinning and drops down out of the way. All this happens within 5 milliseconds, helping to ensure the blade inflicts minimal damage. This galvanic response safety mechanism is great for preventing injuries but will permanently damage the blade if triggered. If the material you are cutting is conductive it will trigger the saw stop feature. Do not cut any wet lumber, pressure treated, or metal coated materials such as gold leaf with this machine. Charcoal is also conductive so any laser cut areas of lumber should not make contact with the blade while cutting. There are a few other things to keep in mind regarding your material as well. Make sure the material you are cutting is free of all foreign objects. Do not cut materials that may have nails or screws as they will damage the blade and may cause injury to you. If the blade comes in contact with a conductive material (metal or human fingers), the safety mechanism will stop the saw blade by jamming a block of aluminum into the blade and probably permanently take the blade out of commission. Also, if the material contains a loose knot it can break free and create a safety hazard.

If your material looks good, the next step is to set up the saw itself. When setting up the saw the blade, it should protrude no more than 1/4" above the material top. This limits the amount of blade that is exposed and makes for a good cut. You will also want to hook up the adjacent dust collector to the rear of the machine, make sure it is plugged in, and turned on. The dust collector must be used with the table saw to help keep the dust out of the air. As you make a cut, it is imperative that you keep the wood firmly against the fence to make the cut square. Therefore, you should double check to see if you are reading the right measurement on the fence, especially because the fence can be moved to either side of the blade which is why there are two distance indicators, only one of which is correct for each set up. Make sure to ask the supervisor about the available jigs because they can be helpful for specialty cuts. Once the supervisor has demonstrated the use of a jig feel free to use it in the future but do not play around with jigs you are unfamiliar with.

After the saw is set up make sure the small dust collector is ready to go. The dust collector hose needs to be connected to the table saw exhaust port. It's a good idea to gently press against the lower dust collector bag with your hand or use the clear sight window to see how full the dust bag is prior to turning it on. If the sawdust level is above the clear sight window you need to let the supervisor know. Turn the power switch on for the dust collector. Turn on the saw main switch and wait for solid green light. Make sure the blade is clear and pull the start/stop paddle next to the main power switch and slowly push the material through, making sure to keep your hands away from the blade. Do not stop pushing the material until after the cut is finished unless there is an emergency, in which case, carefully use one hand or your hip to bump the off switch. Also not let go of your work piece during the cut or it will be forced back towards you.

====Demonstration====

Demonstrate you can safely setup the saw and rip a board. You will then proceed to cross cut one of the remaining pieces. Remember to set the blade height so it is protruding less than 1/4" out the top of material for less exposure. When performing a rip cut the fence is used to guide the lumber into the blade. You want to make sure that the distance between the fence and blade is the width of desired cut. Mark the edge of the material when doing a cross cut so you can align the material with the blade in the sled. You can also use a miter gauge for making cross cuts but make sure the material is long enough and well supported.

====General Procedure====
[[File:TABLE_SAW_CONTROLS.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px]]

'''Rip Cut'''

1. Ensure that the material you are cutting has at least one straight edge and no nails or foreign objects. The straight edge will slide against the fence when ripping.

2. Measure the width of the board and determine the width of cut desired.

3. Lift the locking handle on the fence and slide the fence to the desired cut width using the scale. Make sure you use the scale for the correct side of the blade.

4. Lock the fence by pressing down on the locking handle.

5. Use the elevation handle on the front of the saw to set the height of the blade approximately 1 tooth above the height of the material by placing the material next to the blade as a guide. This limits the exposed blade.

6. Turn on the main power switch on the front of the saw and the dust collector. The green light on the saw will flash and turn solid green when the saw is ready.

7. Make sure nothing is touching the blade. Turn on the saw by gently pulling on the red start paddle switch located on the front of the machine. The paddle switch is also the off switch when pressed.

8. Line up the flat side of the material with the fence without touching the blade. The fence is a guide and the material should be pressed firmly into the fence as well as down on the table. If the board is warped make sure that curved side is face downward.

9. Slowly feed the material in towards the blade while keeping your fingers at least 6" from the blade. Use a push stick to keep fingers away from the blade.

10. Make sure you keep a firm hold on the material and do not stop feeding the material until it has passed beyond the blade.

11. It is helpful to have someone assisting on the back side of the saw to help hold material being fed off the table. Make sure the person helping does not pull on the material.

12. When the saw cut is complete, press in on the paddle switch to turn off the saw and lower the blade below the table to keep anyone from accidentally cutting themselves.

'''Cross Cut'''

1. Move the fence off to the side by lifting the brake handle and sliding the fence off to the side.

2. Place the cross cut sled on the table by aligning the table slots with the rails on the sled.

3. Slide the sled over the blade and use the material to set the blade height using the blade height handle on the front of the saw. The blade should be roughly one tooth taller than the top of the material.

4. Place the material flat edge against the back of the sled and align the material with the edge of the blade.

5. Once the blade is clear pull the red paddle switch to turn on the saw.

6. Slide the sled forward to cut through the material at the desired location.

7. Slide the sled back to you so it clears the blade.

8. Power down the saw by pressing the red paddle switch located on the front of the machine.

9. Lower the blade below the table using the crank handle on the front of the machine.

10. Reset the space by cleaning up any dust, turning off the equipment, and lowering the blade below the table to keep anyone from accidentally cutting themselves.

==Safety==
There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using a table saw.
* The blade is very sharp and it spins very fast. Keep your fingers away from the blade even when its not spinning. Use a push stick to keep your fingers a safe distance from the blade.
* Always wear proper safety equipment, i.e. ear protection and safety glasses, to prevent injury.
* Hold onto material firmly and keep it against the table and fence to help prevent the material from catching on the blade. If material catches on the blade the material can shoot back at you and this is called a kickback.
This is a video of a kickback:
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7sRrC2Jpp4}}

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1262 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
If the blade appears to need sharpening ask the tech to change out the blade.

A sign of a dull blade is as follows:

1. Burning of material

2. More resistance when cutting

3. Rough cut edges

4. Increased cutting noise

5. Increased motor noise

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Keep the saw clean and use the dust collector. There are several lubrication points on the saw that need to be checked by the tech.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Lubricate mechanisms
|Semester
|Sample
|-
|Clean machine interior
|Monthly
|Tech
|-
|Change the blade
|As Needed
|Tech
|}

Scroll Saw

2021-07-22T17:50:58Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Scroll Saw.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1197
|Has make=Excalibur
|Has model=EX-21
|Has serial number=EX2100170900211
|Has ace=Needed;Needed
}}[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

[[File:Excalibur EX21 Scroll Saw Image.jpg|thumb|Excalibur EX-21 Scroll Saw]]
The Excalibur EX-21 Scroll Saw is a small variable speed electric saw. It operates similarly to a band saw, but uses a reciprocating blade instead of a loop. This reciprocation means the blade does not cut continuously and only on the down stroke. The thinness of the blade allows it to be turned in the work piece at an almost 90 degree angle, which allows the blade to track along fine detail and sharp lines. The blade can also be removed on either the top or bottom of the reciprocating arm which allows the blade to be inserted inside of a work piece without needing an entry cut, the only thing necessary is a small hole drilled through the material. There is a blade guard and a dust blower nozzle that both need to be adjust before a piece can be cut into the material.

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

==Description==

The scroll saw is simple machine with an oscillating blade. The thin shallow blade has a very narrow kerf and allows the user to cut fine details and sharp corners. There are a variety of blades available for various types of materials and cuts. Some of the scroll saw uses include wood puzzle making, intarsia projects, and dovetail cutting. The blade can also be removed and inserted into a drilled hole to give access to the center of an island area in material to cutout the center of an "O" for example. A paper template with a design can be glued onto the top of a work piece and traced.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TU3V3MdkaJg}}

== Documentation ==
* [https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/5d/5da1c223-3df7-4236-8b34-34eb1641764a.pdf Manual]

====Terminology====

* Material hold down - Adjustable metal bar that sits above work piece used to help keep material from lifting off the table.
* Kerf - The material removed by the width of the blade.

==Training==
====Operation====

The scroll saw has an oscillating blade with a variable speed control. The thin narrow blade allows you to make tight turns and produce very detailed cuts.

The cutting angle of the scroll saw can be changed by doing the following:

1. Release the locking lever by rotating it counter-clockwise.

2. Turn the tilting handle left or right as desired.

3. Use the spring loaded indexing pin for common angles.

4. Tighten the locking lever.

====Demonstration====

Demonstrate you can safely setup and operate the scroll saw. You will sketch a letter on a piece of scrap using a pen or pencil. You will follow the lines with the blade and cut out the letter. Keep your fingers away from the blade.

====General Procedure====

1. Obtain a piece of wood roughly 4" x 4". If the work piece is too small it will be difficult to hold onto.

2. Using a pencil or pen sketch a letter without a isolated center.

3. Make sure to tension the blade by flipping the blade tension lever. If the blade is not tensioned properly the blade cut will tend to drift and will make it difficult to follow the cut lines.

4. Adjust the height of the hold down and blade guard for the thickness of material you are using.

5. Make sure the air blow-off nozzle is pointing at location in front of the blade. This will remove dust from the cut lines and make it easier to follow your lines.

6. Make sure the material is clear of the blade and turn on the power switch.

7. Using the blade speed adjustment knob you can set the blade strokes per minute. The EX-21 is capable of producing 400 to 1550 strokes per minute. Normally harder/thicker material will require a slower blade speed. Set the blade around 800 to start with. If you notice burn marks slow down the speed.

8. Gently feed the material into the blade while aligning your marks with the blade. Slowly follow the line with the blade and cutout around the letter.

9. Adjust the blade oscillation speed as needed. If the material is showing burn marks you need to slow down the speed.

10. When you finish cutting out the letter turn off the power switch.

11. Detention the blade by flipping the lever above the blade.

12. Reset the space.

==Safety==
There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using a scroll saw.
* Keep your fingers and hands away from the blade and all moving parts.
* If a blade breaks or gets pulled from the holder turn off the machine and tell the supervisor.
* Always wear proper safety equipment to prevent injury.
* Some woods can create toxic dust so be aware of what you are cutting.
* Hold onto material firmly as the blade will try to lift the material off the table.
* Use a brush to clear away chips and sawdust.
* Allow the blade to do the cutting at its own speed. Don't force material into the blade.
* Make sure the material hold down is correctly adjusted. The hold down should never impede the material movement and should barely sit above the material.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1197 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
If the blade pulls out of the holder, stop the machine and contact the supervisor. Over tightening the blade holder will damage the threads.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

There are several items on the machine that will need attention over time.
* Every 10-15 hours of use, the blade tension lever should be lubricated.
* The blade may need to be squared up to the table if it gets out of adjustment.
* The upper arm adjustment screw will need to be adjusted if the upper arm will not stay in the upright position.
* If the blade slips in the holder frequently it is time to change the blade clamp thumb screw.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Power Carver

2021-07-22T17:49:50Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File: Power_carverIcon.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Foredom.jpg
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1275
|Has make=Foredom
|Has model=SR - K5200 Deluxe
|Has serial number=I180359
|Has ace=Josh Young;youngj17@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

The power carver consists of hand piece that is driven by a motor. The motor is connected via flexible shaft that allows easy movement of the hand piece without the weight of the motor. There are many cutting tools available for use with the hand piece. Some of the uses include sanding, carving, and cutting. The most common uses are creating custom designs in wood and polishing small projects.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pkkz5ZkdZHk}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

'''Hand-Piece-''' The part of the power carver that attaches to the cutter. 
'''Flex Shaft-''' The flexible cable that transfers the motor power to the hand piece.

[[Media:K_Manual.pdf]]

==Training==
====Operation====
The Foredom uses a stand that is connected to the table. You will need to clip the motor hanger bracket to the clip on the stand. This will allow the stand to carry the weight of the motor. The preferred hand piece will need to be selected and installed as well as the desired tool. The tools are captivated by the collet located inside the hand piece. To lock the shaft find the hole located on the side of the hand piece. Install the locking pin into the hole so the shaft can't turn. You will now be able to use the wrench to loosen the collet. Install the tool and reverse the process to lock the tool in place. Make sure to remove the locking pin before trying to run the motor.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U4tdNuw4dWA}}

====Demonstration====

You will need to safely demonstrate setting up the Foredom. Connect the motor bracket to the hanger and change out a tool. Place the pedal in a comfortable position and plug in the power cord. Explain the dangers involved in operating this tool. Select the direction switch to indicate the proper rotation direction. Using a scrap piece of wood carve a simple design.

====General Procedure====

'''Basic Setup'''
1. Connect the motor bracket to the stand clip if not already done.

2. Remove and install the desired handpiece if needed. See video for removal and installation. Make sure the shaft key is properly aligned before installation.

3. Change the tool if needed. Use the locking pin and wrench to tighten and looses the collet. Make sure to remove the locking pin when done.

4. Place the variable speed foot pedal at a comfortable position on the floor.

5. Plug in the power cord.

6. Set the motor direction switch for proper rotation direction. Most tools should be used in the forward direction. Ask if you are unsure about the motor direction.

7. Make sure you have a good grip on the handle before pressing the foot pedal as the cutting tool will begin to spin. The speed of the tool is proportional to the travel of the foot pedal.

==Safety==
Remember that a carving tool that can remove wood can also remove flesh. Keep your hands away from spinning cutters. It's good practice to carve along the grain and try to avoid removing material too quickly, which can cause the tool to slip. When working with larger tooling make sure to clamp your project down. Avoid loose clothing or hair, which can get caught in moving bits. Power carving can produce flying particles, so it's important to protect your eyes. The dust produced is not good for your lungs so avoid breathing the dust and make sure the air filters are turned on.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1275 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==

If a tool is not cutting make sure it is turning the correct direction. Running a tool backwards will cause burning and damage to the tool.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Keep the motor and flex shaft clean. Wipe down or vacuum as needed.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Grease Shaft
|Technician
|50 Hours
|}

Planer

2021-07-22T17:48:22Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:planer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Planer icon
|Has iconwname=File:planer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:planer.png
|Has imagedesc=Powermatic Planer
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1245
|Has make=Powermatic
|Has model=209HH-3
|Has serial number=1706209HH5185
|Has ace=Logan Hanbey;lhanbey17@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Powermatic planer contains a 5HP motor and 20" planing capacity that will handle the most demanding work. The helical cutterhead provides quieter operation and finer finishing than conventional systems, and the four-sided knife inserts seat themselves without requiring a set-up gauge. The 5" dust port connects easily to any dust collector. Used to remove material from wood, as well as squaring to create straight pieces. <ref>Description adapted from [http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/209hh-20-planer-5hp-3ph-230-460v/1791316 Powermatic].</ref>
The Planer is used to trim wood boards down by precise measurements, never more than 1/16 of an inch on each pass. The anti-kickback fingers and pressure bar are located in close proximity to the cutterhead for an exceptional finish. The solid cast iron base, table and head are designed for production. The 2-speed oil bath gearbox transmits full power to feed rollers and facilitates fast speed changes at 24 and 31 FPM. The gearbox can be changed to 4-speed with the included gear to run lower speeds of 16 and 20 FPM. The corrugated infeed and fine groove outfeed rollers ensure a smooth feed. The precision ground and polished cast iron table rides on four steel columns giving it plenty of support for the larger workpiece. Heavy cast iron extension wings ensure a flat, smooth cut.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcGqyujNYlM}}
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRK0yW4CcWs}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
[[File:...Planer.png|none|thumb|500x500px]]

[http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/209hh-20-planer-5hp-3ph-230-460v/1791316 Vendor Website]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Planer is used to trim wood boards down by precise measurements, never more than 1/16 of an inch per pass. It is super useful for making smooth surfaces without taking off too much material.

====Demonstration====

The demonstration for this machine will be to plane both sides of scrap piece of wood from the Wood Shop. It would be preferable to use a piece of wood that is warped in some way to understand the process of planning each side.

====General Procedure====
# Connect one of the dust collectors (shown below) on so we can keep the place clean. <gallery>
File:Small Dust Collector Image.jpg|Small Dust Collector
File:Large Dust Collector Image.jpg|Large Dust Collector
</gallery>
# Before turning on the machine, loosen the table lock nuts on the side of the machine. slide the material into the machine and slowly adjust the table height by rotating the handwheel until the material
# The key is to take off very little material on the first pass and adjust as needed.
# Remove piece and adjust wheel to trim desired amount off of work piece.
# Never attempt to remove more than 1/16” per pass (one turn). Do not over load the motor. Multiple passes result in less tear-out and are easier on the machine.
# Always take your measurements at the thickest part of the board and adjust planer to match this thickness.
# Do not attempt to run stock less than 12” in length through the planer.
# Turn the Thickness Planer on and wait until it has reached full speed before starting to plane your stock.
# Only plane one piece of stock at a time. Stand to the side of the stock and feed it into the infeed opening. Let go of the stock when the roller takes hold of it. Never put your finger in the machine.
# Always plane with the grain, never perpendicular to grain (i.e., feed boards lengthwise, not width-wise).
# Never attempt to force feed the planer; always allow stock to move through under the force of the feed roller only.
# Stock will sometimes “hang” (or stop moving forward). If the material stops feeding power off the machine and wait for the cutter to stop spinning before attempting to remove the board.
## The feed control may have slipped. Simply push it all the way to the right.
## The table is too high (not adjusted to the proper height). This should NOT happen since you’re supposed to measure the stock and then make table adjustment according to your needs.
# Never attempt to feed stock into the out feed side. The motor turns one direction and will try to spit it right back at you.
# Be careful not to let your fingers become pinched between stock and table. It will hurt a lot.
# If stock is real long, get help holding it while you feed it into the in-feed opening. Ensure your helper is standing to the side of the stock and NOT behind it.
# Keep your full attention on the stock, the controls, and where your hands/fingers are while you plane.
# After half of the stock has entered the planer, walk around back and hold the end up as the rest of the stock comes out of the machine. Do not pull the stock out; simply allow the machine to push it toward you. Adjust the pressure bar lever if needed.
# Do NOT plane to a thickness less than 1/4”.
# Listen to the sound the planer makes as it’s operating. If something doesn’t sound right, turn the Thickness Planer off and notify the shop aid.
# Planing thickness is the only adjustment that should be made while the planer running. The machine should be off before making any other adjustments.
# When finished working with the Thickness Planer, turn the machine off and remain in the work zone until it stops moving.
# Clean off the infeed table so that the next users’ stock will be able to make contact directly with the table instead of being raised up slightly by the chips left after you’re finished planing.
# Turn off and disconnect the dust collector.

==Safety==
# '''NEVER''' allow your hands/fingers to enter the infeed opening.
# '''NEVER''' turn on the Thickness Planer with stock inside the infeed opening. No good.
# '''NEVER''' bend down to look into a planer while it is running.
# '''NEVER''' attempt to repair the machine or remove any panels.
# '''NEVER''' put your finger in a knot hole while operating the Thickness Planer.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1245 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# If the Planer seems to be missing a spot on your board, then it is likely that you have a chipped blade. Replacing the blade would then be imperative before its next use.
# If the Planer does not seem to be cutting smoothly, then it is likely that the blade is getting dull. Replacing the blade would then be imperative before its next use.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

General and specific tasks need to take place to maintain machinery. Specific tasks are listed below '''''Note: In [Specific Maintenance Tasks below, 5th item has redundant terms "use if rusted", not sure how to edit table - CZ]'''''

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Work area around machine marked off clearly
|Before and after each use
|Student and Ace
|-
|Non-skid floor strips in area where operator normally stands
|Before and after each use
|Student
|-
|Clean with dust collectors and remove gum/pitch with with oven cleaner
|After each use
|Student
|-
|Lubricate appropriate places with a good grade non-hardening grease
|When needed
|Ace
|-
|Clean Table surface. If rusted, use If rusted, use paste mixture of household ammonia, a good commercial detergent and 000 steel wool. Wash surface down with hot, soapy water, rinse and dry thoroughly. Coat surface with talcum powder, rubbing briskly into surface with a clean blackboard eraser.
|Before and after each use
|Student and Ace
|-
|Check blade condition, should be sharp and free of nicks or grooves
|Before and after each use
|Ace
|-
|Check belt condition. Replace as needed. Dress with belt dressing. Check belt tension
|Before and after each use
|Ace
|-
|Check motor for loose wiring and sawdust congestion, pulleys tight and in line.
|Before and after each use
|Ace
|-
|Check bearings. Replace any bad or suspect bearings immediately.
|Before and after each use
|Ace
|-
|Check leveling of extension tables with main table.
|Before and after each use
|Ace
|}
[[File:...planerMaintainance.png|none|thumb|610x610px]]
<references />

Oscillating Spindle Sander

2021-07-22T17:47:01Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Spindle Sander.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Spindle Sander.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Oscillating Spindle Sander
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1204
|Has make=Grizzly Industrial
|Has model=G1071
|Has serial number=1709690
|Has ace=Needed;Needed
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}
__TOC__

==Description==

The Grizzly vertical spindle sander is for sanding curved surfaces square to the table. The machine contains a 1HP motor and has 10 different sanding spindles ranging from 1/4" to 4" in diameter. The cast iron table has an opening that provides clearance for the spindles to oscillate up and down. The oscillating action will give you a smooth sanded surface at 1725 RPM. The 4" dust port connects easily to any dust collector.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Exi3raTmaNQ}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

*'''Table Insert-''' A metal plate that covers the opening between the spindle and table.
*'''Sanding Spindle-''' A metal shaft with a rubber section that supports a sand paper sleeve. These come in a variety of sizes.

User Manual
[G1071_m.pdf]
[https://www.sawstop.com/images/uploads/manuals/PCS%20Owners%20Manual%20Model%20PCS31230%20V5.0%2009-13.pdf User Manual]

==Training==
====Operation====

The spindle sander is normally used for sanding inside corners. There are various spindles that range from 1/4" to 4". If you need to change out the spindle ask the supervisor on shift for assistance. Make sure the spindle taper is clean before installing a new spindle. Only hand tighten the spindles during installation so they can be removed. The spindle also oscillates up and down as it rotates to produce a smooth finish. The machine has an on/off power switch located on the control panel. Make sure the material you are cutting is free of all foreign objects. Do not sand materials that may have nails or screws as they will damage the drum and may cause injury to you. Also, if the material contains a loose knot it can break free and create a safety hazard. Do not sand plastics, rubber, metal or any other materials other than natural woods.

If your material looks good, the next step is to make sure you have the appropriate spindle installed. You will also want to hook up the adjacent dust collector to the rear of the machine, make sure it is plugged in, and turned on. The dust collector must be used with the sander to help keep the dust out of the air. As you sand, it is imperative that you keep the material firmly against the table and gently push the material into the spindle to make the surface perpendicular to the table. Hold firmly onto the material as it could get pulled out of your hands. If you are sanding the inside of a circle and the material pulls out of your hands do not attempt to grab the spinning part. If you can safely reach the power switch shut off the machine and wait for the part to stop moving.

After the sander is set up you are ready to work. Turn on the sander and gently push the material into the drum, making sure to keep your hands a safe distance from the spindle. Do not force material into the drum.

====Demonstration====

Demonstrate you can safely setup the spindle sander and create a smooth radius. Remember to use the appropriate drum size. You will need to draw a guide line to follow.

====General Procedure====

'''Inside Radius'''

1. Ensure that the material you are sanding is at least 4" long and no nails or foreign objects.

2. Sketch a radius onto your material using pencil.

3. Make sure the spindle in the machine fits the radius you have drawn. If the spindle needs to be changed ask the supervisor on shift for help.

4. Connect the dust collector to the port on the back of the machine.

5. Turn on the power switch on the front of the sander and the dust collector. Make sure nothing is making contact with sanding drum.

7. Gently feed the material into the sanding drum while firmly holding onto the material. Keep your fingers away from the spinning drum.

8. Carefully remove material as you keep an eye on the reference line. Slowly remove material up to the line.

9. When all of the material has been removed take the work piece off the table.

10. Turn off the power switch for the sander and the dust collector.

11. Make sure to reset the space.

==Safety==
There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using a spindle sander.
* Never make contact with the rotating spindle. The sand paper is very aggressive and could cause serious injury.
* The spindle is rotating at a high rate of speed and can grab your work piece.
* Hold onto material firmly and keep it against the table. This will help prevent the material from getting pulled out of your hands. If material catches on the spindle it can starts rotating quickly and create a dangerous situation.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1204 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

*As sanding sleeves are used they will "gum up" with saw dust. If not removed, the saw dust will harden and reduce the life of the sanding sleeve. As needed, a abrasive cleaner should be used on the sleeves.
*The taper end of the sanding spindles should be lubricated with a light oil.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Jointer

2021-07-22T17:46:01Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
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|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
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|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:jointer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Jointer icon
|Has iconwname=File:jointer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:jointer.png
|Has imagedesc=Powermatic Jointer
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1219
|Has make=Powermatic
|Has model=54HH
|Has serial number=170554HH3289
|Has ace=Needed;Needed
}}
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Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

The jointers function is to produce a flat surface along a boards length and has a 6" width capacity. When gluing board edges together they need to be flat and fit together without gaps. A jointer cuts with a helical cutter-head made up of many tiny carbide cutters wrapped around a rotating drum. Some of the cheaper and older machines use blades rather than carbide inserts to cut away material.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e1O12_hRRAU}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

* Cutter Head - Drum of carbide inserts that performs the cutting action.
* Fence - Metal back-stop that is used to guide and control the angle of material being cut.

[http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/54hh-jointer-1hp-1ph-115-230v/1791317K Product Home Page]

[http://content.powermatic.com/assets/manuals/1791279DXK_man_EN.pdf User Manual]

==Training==
====Operation====
[[File:Jointer Graphic.png|800px|thumbnail|right]]

The core of jointer consists of a round cutter head with many carbide cutters. The cutter head is located between the in-feed and out-feed table. The front table can be adjusted up and down to control the amount of material that is exposed to the cutter head. The lower the table the more material per pass will be removed. Don't try to adjust the out-feed table as the height has been set to support the material after it has been ran past the cutter head. Misalignment of the cutter head to out-feed table will create uneven cuts or jam the material on out-feed. There are a few other things to keep in mind regarding your material as well. Make sure the material you are cutting is free of all foreign objects. Do not cut materials that may have nails or screws as they will damage the blade and may cause injury to you. Also, if the material contains a loose knot it can break free and create a safety hazard. Only cut with the grain, attempting to cut across the grain of material will create poor results and could create kick-back. Do not attempt to joint end grain either. If you have a cupped board place the concave side down on the table while running it through the machine. This will help remove material on the ends and flatten out the board.

It's always a good idea to examine the material for flaws and come up with a game plan prior to making your first cut. If the material has a cupped side you should start with the cupped side down. When dealing with boards that are more than twice the length of the in feed and out feed table you should have someone assist you while planing. If your material looks good, the next step is to set up the jointer itself. When setting up the jointer in-feed table, make sure not to remove more than 1/16" of material. This limits the amount of cutter engagement and will help prevent a kickback. You will also need to hook up the adjacent dust collector to the end of the machine, make sure it is plugged in, and turned on. The dust collector must be used with the jointer to help keep the dust out of the air. As you make a cut, it is imperative that you keep the wood firmly against the fence and table. Therefore, you should double check to see if the fence is secure, especially because the fence can be adjusted. You do not want the fence to move while you are making a cut.

After the jointer is set up you are ready to cut. Press the power switch and slowly push the material through, making sure to keep your hands away from the cutter head/guard. Do not stop pushing the material until after the cut is finished. If the material gets stuck and won't move forward continue to hold onto the work and very carefully turn off the power switch. Do not let go of your work piece during the cut or it could fly backwards.

====Demonstration====

Demonstrate you can safely setup the jointer. You will need to clean up one edge and one face of a board. Remember to never adjust the out feed table as it has been precisely set to the height of the cutter head. Adjusting the in-feed table will change the amount of material removed per pass. Do not set the in-feed table to remove more than 1/16" per pass. Your fingers should never go any lower than the height of the cutter guard. Verify the fence is locked and set at the angle needed before making a pass.

====General Procedure====

Edge Cleanup
Do not perform jointing operations on material shorter than

1. Ensure that the material you are cutting is free from nails and foreign objects. Foreign material will damage the cutters and create flying hazards. Check for problematic knots too.

2. Make sure the board is at least 8" long and at least 3/4" wide to prevent the board from tilting while cutting. Do not joint workpieces less than 1/4" thick.

3. Check the cut gauge on the front table. Make sure you know how much material is being removed. Never adjust the rear table.

4. Make sure the fence is tight and set at the correct angle.

5. Check that the dust collector is connected.

6. Make sure the machine table is clear and press the power on switch for the jointer and dust collector.

7. Position your hands safely on the material and use a push stick if needed. A push pad/stick is needed if your material is less than 2" thick. This will keep your fingers away from the cutter head.

8. Slowly feed the material through while pushing down on the table and back against the fence. Moving the material too fast will produce a poor finish.

9. After making a pass measure the material to see if another pass is required. Multiple passes are normally needed to get the desired results.

10. Power off the machine and dust collector.

11. Reset the space.

Facing Material (planing)

1. Ensure that the material you are cutting is free from nails or foreign objects. Foreign material will damage the cutters and create flying hazards. Check for problematic knots too.

2. Make sure the board is at least 8" long x 2" wide to prevent the board from tilting while facing. Do not joint workpieces less than 1/4" thick.

3. Check the cut gauge. When facing you normally want to take off a small amount of material per pass due to the large surface area.

4. Make sure the fence is tight and set at the correct angle.

5. Check that the dust collector is connected.

6. Make sure the machine table is clear and press the power on switch for the jointer and dust collector.

7. Position your hands safely on the material. A push pad/stick is needed if your material is less than 2" thick. This will keep your fingers away from the cutter head.

8. Slowly feed the material through on the table to get a smooth finish.

9. After making a pass inspect the material to see if another pass is needed. Multiple passes are normally required to get the desired results.

10. Power off the machine and dust collector.

11. Reset the space.

==Safety==
There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using a jointer.
* The cutters are very sharp and spin very fast. Keep your fingers away from the cutter head even when its not spinning. Use a push pad/stick to keep your fingers a safe distance from the cutters.
* Never let your thumb or fingers hang down near the table when pushing a board through the machine.
* Hold onto material firmly and keep it against the table and fence to help prevent material kicking back. If material catches on the blade the material can shoot back at you and this is called a kickback.
* Use a hold down or push block when surfacing stock less than 12" long, or 3 inches wide, or 3 inches thick.
* Never feed material the same direction as the cutter rotation.
* Never try to cut across grain as this could cause a kickback.
* Don't exceed a 1/16" cut per pass as too heavy of a cut can try to push material back at you and overload the machine.
* Make sure material cut is free of all metal and loose Knots to prevent damage to you and the machine.
* Never apply downward pressure to the material directly over the cutter head. This could cause the board to tip and or put your hand/fingers at risk.
This is a video showing how to safely use the jointer:
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3d1qBxcnI0E
}}

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1219 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
If the finish looks rough you may be feeding the material too fast. Try slowing down the speed you are feeding the material through.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Carbide cutters need rotating when they start to dull. This is a job for the technician.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Handheld CNC Router

2021-07-22T17:44:45Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
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|Has icon=File:CNC Hand Router.png
|Has icondesc=
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|Has image=File:Shaper-Origin-Hero-Shot.jpg
|Has imagedesc=
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|Has make=Shaper
|Has model= S01-NN Origin
|Has serial number=40083933
|Has ace=Needed;Needed
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__TOC__

==Description==

The handheld CNC is a relatively small and portable computer automated router that can be moved around a flat, wooden surface. It uses location tracking and a moving spindle to provide an easy way to make precise cuts using a handheld machine which makes it great for performing high precision or detailed cuts. A camera is used to track its location by referencing a special tape which you apply to the surface you want to cut on. The spindle and router bit for the CNC are small, so the CNC is best suited for shallow cuts and engraving work. Despite the shallow cuts, the CNC is still capable of cutting non-shallow material thicknesses, it just means that multiple passes will have to be made.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0clzXWSaCw}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* SVG - SVG is the file type for the graphics file that the CNC uses for its cuts. SVG stands for “Scalable Vector Graphics” and can be opened/modified with Adobe Illustrator, GIMP, and some others.
* Pocket Cut - The cut setting for hallowing out the center of a shape.
* Shaper Tape - A custom tape with special graphics on it that is used by the router to orient itself in space.
* Spindle - The part of the router that spins.
* Collet - The clamp that secures the router bits.

==== [https://assets.shapertools.com/manual/Shaper_Origin_Product_Manual.pdf User Manual] ====

==Training==
====Operation====
Before a cut can be performed with the handheld CNC router you must provide a cut design in the form of an SVG file. These can be created in several different programs but Inkscape is recommended because it is installed on the hub computers and is free to download onto a personal device. When designing your cut use the actual dimensions of the cut. If it is your first time using Inkscape there are tutorials on [https://inkscape.org/learn/tutorials/ their website] and [https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEQXp_fcqwPcqrzNtWJ1w9w Youtube] as well. Alternatively, you can download SVG from a website like [https://thenounproject.com/ this]. After you have created the cut file transfer it to the router using a USB drive or by uploading it over WiFi.

Take the CNC out of the box, set it on a flat, wooden surface, and plug it in. Ensure that the dust collection vacuum is working and has a good seal on the CNC connecting piece. You should never use the CNC without dust collection working! Determine the area on the wood material that you want to cut on and place several strips of tape a bit beyond the width and height of the area you’ll need, with 4-6 inch separation between the tape strips (they don’t need to be straight and parallel, they can be crooked). The CNC uses this tape to manage the CNC’s position. Double check that the correct router bit is secure and in place in the spindle. If the router bit needs to be replaced or secured, make sure that the spindle is turned off and unplugged from the main computer of the router before you take the spindle out of its place. Keep in mind that the switch for the spindle only turns off the spindle, not the CNC computer system.

On the touch interface, select the scan mode and create a new scan for the tape. Move the CNC around the surface until all of the (unripped) tape is highlighted blue. It is important to have enough tape, if the CNC loses track of enough tape it will immediately raise the spindle and stop the router from cutting any material. Once you’re ready, go to the cut menu on the CNC’s touch interface and select the correct diameter for your router bit and the depth your want to cut. It will ask you to “touch off”, select yes. Touching off means that the CNC will lower the router until it just touches the surface in order to calibrate the depth control for the router. Select the appropriate cut type (inside, outside, on-line, or pocket) for the cut you will be making. The pocket cut type will cut out the entire area of the shape you have selected. The guide cut type will not act as a cutting line, it will only show on the display as a reference. You can preview the cut size and direction by looking at the direction of the dashed outline and the thicker, grey line on top of the small, dashed line. Double check that the spindle speed (the control wheel to the right of the spindle) is set correctly. Before you make your first cut, double check the tape accuracy by moving the CNC around and watching the tape icon on the top-right of the display. This shows how much tape is visible to the camera, so the more full the tape bar is the better. If it is consistently low, it may be best to add more tape and do a new scan. Once these things have been completed, you should be good to go for cutting! Keep in mind that you may have to do multiple passes to get the right depth and you may also have to change cut type depending on what kind of cut you’re trying to make.

====Demonstration====

For the demonstration, download [https://thenounproject.com/search/?q=bear&i=121661 this file] as an SVG and open it in Inkscape. Download the [https://support.shapertools.com/hc/en-us/articles/115002735794-Using-the-Template SVG template] from Shaper's website and copy that into the previously downloaded image. Use the eyedropper tool and paint can tool to replace the black outline of the bear with the grey color found on the template. Add a black box around the bear to act as an edge to cut through. Make sure that there is enough distance from the box to the bear, as the black line indicates an inside cut (so the router bit will be cutting on the inside of the box). Once finished, delete the template and save the file as an SVG to an SD card. Complete the demonstration by setting up the router and cutting the file.

====General Procedure====
Included in this section are some helpful videos made by Shaper that walk through the entire process of using the router. It is highly recommended that you look through the videos but if you do not then there are instructions walking through the same process.

Setting up the Cut Area:
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sdsMOPZFMRQ}}
# Remove the router and from its box.
# Power on the router buy plugging in the device. Do not flip the switch attached to the spindle motor to the on position.
# Place at least three strips of Shaper Tape slightly above the area you want to cut so that the router will be able to orient itself. They do not have to be straight line but do need to be in the same plane.
# Select the new scan option on the router and move the router around the work area until all of the tape is highlighted in blue on the screen. This establishes a work plane that the router can reference during a cut. After you have scanned the tape it will take some time for the router to stitch together the work space in its software. Once it is completed, a screen will appear displaying a cross hare that represents the location of the router bit on the work space. You can also zoom out by double tapping the screen to see the complete work area.
# Select the design option on the right of the screen to move onto setting up the cut.
# Bring the file onto the router. The router is capable of receiving files WiFi using individual Shaper accounts but it is quicker and easier to use a Usb drive to transfer files. If using a Usb drive, plug it into the side of the router and then use the plus symbol on the left of the screen to navigate to your file. After selecting your file, the router should display the work space with the file overlaid on top of it.
# Move the cut file to your desired location and press place to establish where you want to cut on the work space. You can put it in a very precise place by zooming in and matching the edges the cut file and work piece together.
# Install your desired bit. Unscrew the bolt on the right of the spindle just loose enough to remove the spindle. To remove the router bit, press down on the locking mechanism and twist the collet until the router bit can be removed. Make sure that the router bit grooves are not below a quarter inch from the top of the collet. Once a new router bit has been put in place, use the wrench to tighten the collet. Reinsert the spindle into the slot on the CNC and tighten the bolt “finger tight”.
# Hook up the router to the dust collection system (aka the shop vac) using the included hose and the dust port on the router base.
# Press the cut option on the right of the screen and you are ready to cut.
# Make sure that you place a spoil board below the material you are cutting so that you do not cut the table. Also be sure to secure the work piece so that it will not shift while you are routing. There is not a specific way to do this but double sided tape may be helpful.

Performing a Cut:
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DekAjAOIVvQ}}
# Select the air cut type in the upper left of the screen and move the router over top of your first cut line so that the line is highlighted as moving dashed line. This indicates the direction your cut should be made in. Make sure to select your bit size and cut location at this point. The cut location can be on the line, inside the line, or outside the line based on your application. There are other cut settings you can experiment with as well.
# Hit the green button to begin the cut. The cut is indicated by a blue line and the center if the bit is indicated by a white dot. The router can move the bit anywhere within the larger white circle so make sure to keep the cut line within the large circle and the router will take care of the rest. There is also an auto advance feature that will move the bit forward to the edge of the large circle.
# Run through your air cut until you get a feel for how the router responds and are confident the cut file is correct.
# Change from an air cut to a whatever cut depth you desire. A good rule of thumb is to never cut deeper than 1.5 times the diameter of the cutting tool.
# Make sure the spindle motor is plugged in and the correct bit is selected.
# Press the z touch button on the left of the screen to zero the router bit to the surface of the work piece.
# Set the spindle speed. The spindle speed can also be adjusted using the dial on the side of the spindle motor if needed.
# Hit the green button on the handle or press start on the screen to perform the cut.
# Reset the space when finished by vacuuming any dust, returning the router to its box, and putting away any scrap material.

==Safety==
* Remove any adjusting key or wrench before turning the power tool on. A wrench or a key left attached to a rotating part of the power tool may result in personal injury or damage the machine.
* Always use the dust collection system to keep the dust levels in the wood shop from reaching a dangerous level.
* Always hold onto the router while it is cutting. It is a CNC but it is not fastened to anything and could tip over if the bit catches on the material.
* Cut at an appropriate feed rate. If Origin’s correction range is unable to keep up with your feed rate, move Origin slower, reduce the depth of cut, change your router bit, and/or adjust the spindle speed.
* Adhere work piece elements that may come loose during cutting. When cutting items out of work piece materials, use double sided tape or alternative methods to hold elements down to your workbench and/or spoil board. This will prevent items from coming loose when cutting is complete.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1272 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
* Cut is to big or small. The router will cut exactly on the cut line which often results in tight fitting parts. Use the offset option in the cut settings to increase or decrease the cut size by a minimal amount.
* The router keeps losing track of the Shaper Tape during a cut. Try rotating the router during the cut so the camera is always pointing towards the tape. If the problem persists add more tape.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

To keep this machine working properly, wipe off any dust that was collected on it while cutting before putting it away. There is also a chip tray on the front of the router that needs to be cleaned out as it fill up.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|1
|Wipe down the Router
|After each use
|Student
|-
|2
|Clean the chip tray
|When it is close to full
|Student
|}

Hand Router

2021-07-22T17:40:41Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
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|Has icondesc=
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|Has image=File:HandRouterImage.jpeg
|Has imagedesc=Porter Cable Model 8902 2.25 HP Hand Router.
|Has description=Hand router for use in the Maker Hub when routing wood if you intend to use a template, route imprecisely, or are too old-school to use the handheld CNC router.
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1269
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==Description==

The hand router is very versatile but can also be a very dangerous tool if not used properly. Used in conjunction with the proper jigs and templates, the router can accomplish a wide variety of tasks with relative ease. Holes and channels of varying depths and nearly limitless shapes can be cut. The router can also use special bits to cut bevels and chamfers along the edges of a workpiece.

Introductory Video]
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Vl8Jbw3cSk}}
Introductory Video]

About Direction of Cut]
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Qqimqo-ohU}}

==Documentation==

Manual [[Media:HandRouterManual890_series.pdf ]]

====Terminology====

Each bit is made for a different job. The wood shop has a wide assortment, although less common types may be unavailable. It should be noted that different bit sizes and profiles will operate better at different speeds. The amount of material that is being removed in each pass as well as the hardness of the wood should determine the speed the router is ran. You should not attempt to use any bits over 1" in diameter as these are designed for use in a router table and could create a dangerous situation.

Occasionally routing can leave burn marks on the work piece. This usually means that the bit in the router has become dull, let a shop supervisor know if a bit seems dull. Sometimes the burning is due to build up of resin and other gunk (a technical term) on the back of the blade insulating the bit and allowing for heat to build up, make sure to keep bits clean. A final possible cause of burning wood while routing is taking passes that are too slow or setting the router bit speed too high. A good rule of thumb for setting router bit speed is the larger the cutter the slower the speed. Set the spindle speed adjustment to around 20000 RPM when starting out and you can adjust as needed. If a specific cutter is marked with a recommended speed start with that.

[[File:Hand router.jpg|500px|right]]
<figure-inline>[[Image:RouterBits.jpg|331x331px]]</figure-inline>

*Fixture - Tooling you make or buy, which assists in the usage of a tool and helps yield a higher quality product.
*Soft Start - Electronic circuit used to slow the start up speed of a motor or power tool.

====Operation====

The hand router is a versatile power tool and can accommodate 2 different cutter shank diameters. Both the 1/4" and 1/2" shank require their own specific collet. The collet is changed by unscrewing the collet clamping nut and removing the collet. The collet is located near the cutter so it tends to collect a large amount of wood dust. It's important to always clean out the collet and collet housing so the spring clamping action works properly. It's very important to have the proper amount of cutter shank engagement. A cutter shank that is not installed correctly could come loose or even damage the collet. You should have at least 3/4" engagement into the collet. The cutter should be inserted all the way into the collet then pulled out approximately 1/8". This will make sure the shank is not bottomed out.

If your material looks good, the next step is to set up the router itself. When setting up the router height,

After the router is set up you are ready to cut. Turn on the router and slowly feed the cutter into the material, making sure to keep your hands on the handles. Do not stop the cutter in one spot and let it sit as this will cause burning. Also make sure the router spindle has stopped spinning before taking your hands off the handles.

====Demonstration====

Demonstrate you can safely setup the hand router/tooling. You will need to chamfer or round over an edge of material. Remember to always unplug the router when changing tools or making adjustments to prevent an accidental turn on situation. The direction of travel is also important when making cuts to prevent tearing out corners and edges. Use router bits with bearings to help guide the cutter. Never attempt to free hand a cut without a guide for the router to follow as this can lead to the router running away out of control.

====General Procedure====

'''Edge Chamfer'''

1. The material you are cutting needs to be free from nails or foreign objects. The material should be at least 1/2" thick.

2. Make sure the material is secured. You can use clamps, double sided tape, or bench pucks. Material that is not secure will move and create a hazard.

3. Select the type of router bit you wish to use. Make sure the bit has a bearing guide.

4. Verify the router is unplugged and place the router upside down on the bench.

5. Select the 1/2" or 1/4" collet needed for the appropriate bit.

6. Install the router bit into the collet at least 3/4" Always make sure the collet is clean before inserting a bit to prevent poor clamping issue.

7. Firmly lock the tool down using the router wrench. The nut will squeeze the collet down onto the router bit shank. You will need to use the spindle nut wrench and the spindle lock button.

8. Position the router onto your material. Loosen the spindle depth lock. Adjust the height of cutter engagement as desired and lock the spindle depth lock.

9. Make sure the power switch is in the OFF position. Verify the router cutter is clear and place the router on its side. Proceed to plug in the router.

10. Only handle the router with both hands on the handles. Move the router onto your material. Make sure the cutter does NOT make contact.

11. Turn on the power switch and let the router get up to speed. Slowly feed the cutter into the material until the bearing makes contact with the material edge. Keep the guide plate flat on your material and slowly feed the router opposite the direction of the spinning cutter. If you travel in the wrong direction the cutter will try to pull the router along. If you travel too slow the wood will start to burn. Traveling too fast will produce a poor cut. Be careful to keep the router from tilting when traveling along the edge and especially while traveling around a corner.

12. Power off the router after making your cut. Let the spindle stop turning before moving the router away from the work piece.

13. Place the router on its side and unplug the router to prevent an accidental power on condition.

14. Remove the router bit by using the wrench and spindle lock button.

15. Reset the space.

==Safety==
*Be aware of the cutter location on a router at all times as it is fairly exposed.
*Keep all body parts away from the cutter and make sure the motor has stopped before removing your hands from the handles.
*Any equipment/tool that you don't handle safely is the most dangerous tool in the shop.
*Don't attempt to use any router bits exceeding 1" in diameter.
*Never attempt to use the router without the base.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ble_8zw_C9w}}

==Certification==
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1269 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
If you notice burning or dark coloration on the material it could be caused by feeding the cutter at too slow of a rate. A dull cutter can also cause material burning.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

* Make sure cutter bits are clean.
* Remove and clean the collets as needed.
* Make sure any adjustment screws are tight.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Compound Miter Saw

2021-07-22T17:38:12Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has serial number= 440496
|Has icon=File:Miter Saw.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Compound Miter Saw image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Compound Miter Saw
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1208
|Has make=Dewalt
|Has model=DWS780
|Has ace=Needed;Needed
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

==Description==

Miter saws are a type of chop saw where the angle of the blade in relation to the fence is adjustable for making angled cuts (a.k.a. miter cuts). Compound miter saws can also tilt the blade to make bevels. They are primarily used for crosscuts through wood and are good for making repeated cuts at the same length.

Here are some example videos of miter saw use.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAymVRheJoA}}
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPUgrhnJVbU}}

==Terminology/Anatomy==
[[File:Miter Saw Diagram.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Miter Saw Diagram]]
'''Miter''' 
''noun'' 
# A tall headdress worn by bishops and senior abbots as a symbol of office, tapering to a point at front and back with a deep cleft between. 
# A joint made between two pieces of wood or other material at an angle of 90°, such that the line of junction bisects this angle. 
 
Other Names: Chop Saw 
 
'''Workpiece''' – an object (in this case a piece of wood) being worked on with a tool or machine. 
'''Keeper Piece''' – the piece you keep; “blessed are the peacemakers, for they shall be called sons of God.” – Matthew 5:9 
'''Offcut''' – scrap, the waste resulting from cutting a piece of wood. 
'''Fence''' – a fixture attached to the machine/tool that guides the workpiece in a straight line against it. 
'''Bevel''' – to cut an inclined or sloping angle (in reference to the z-axis) on a workpiece that is other than 90°; also, the angle itself. 
'''Crosscut''' – a cut perpendicular to the grain of the wood. 
'''Rip''' – a cut parallel to the grain of the wood. 
'''Kerf''' – the wood removed by a saw between the piece you keep and the offcut which is approximately equal to the width of the saw blade. 
'''Stop Block''' – a block of wood temporarily fixed in place to limit the travel of a workpiece as it is cut; also a block of wood that serves as a reference point when a number of pieces need to be crosscut to the same length. 
'''Sacrificial Fence (Auxiliary Fence)''' – a temporary fence attached to the main fence that is often damaged during the cutting process, then discarded. 
'''Detent (Positive Stop)''' – a preset adjustment on a device where the range of motion catches and stops until it is released, usually set for common angles such as 45° or 90°. 
 
* [https://servicenet.dewalt.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manual/N693246,%20DWS780.pdf#_ga=2.206105363.1243740501.1579028676-385056216.1578681539 User Manual]

==Training==
====Operation====

In contrast to the operation of a table saw or band saw, the workpiece on a miter saw remains stationary while the blade moves through it. The blade spins away from the user at the point of contact with the wood; this is why the user should always ensure that the workpiece is firmly against the fence before making a cut. This machine is only intended for cutting wood or wood-like materials. Do not cut metal or any type of ferrous material. All workpieces should be carefully inspected for foreign objects or defects before cutting (including nails, screws, staples, etc.). Do not make rip cuts with the miter saw; the blade is specifically designed for crosscuts. Sliding miter saws can cut wider workpieces than non-sliding miter saws. The maximum 90° crosscut capacity for this saw is 2”x14”. Push the saw through the workpiece (away from you) when using the slide functionality; do not pull the saw through the workpiece (towards you). Cutting on the pull stroke is likely to cause the saw blade to climb on top of the workpiece and violently throw the blade assembly towards the user.

====Notes On Proper Measuring====

Mark the workpiece at the desired cut-length and use a square to draw a perpendicular line where you want to make the cut. Do not center the blade on the perpendicular line to make the cut because the kerf will cause the keeper piece to be too short (by half the width of the blade). Think about which side of the workpiece will be the offcut and position the blade over the offcut region of your workpiece with the very edge of the blade on the perpendicular line.

====Making Cuts====

Only cut one workpiece at a time. 
Rehearse your cuts before making them. This simply refers to performing the motions of the cut without spinning up the blade to ensure your fingers are clear from the cutting area and to double-check measurements. 
When making a cut, squeeze the power trigger while the saw is in its fully-raised position and let the saw reach full speed before cutting into the workpiece. Slowly guide the blade through the workpiece; there is no need for fast movements or excessive downward force. 
After the workpiece is fully cut, let the blade come to a stop in the down position. If you lift the saw while the blade is still spinning, the teeth can potentially catch on the wood and throw the offcut in a random direction. This is especially important when using a stop block because the offcut is trapped between the blade and the stop block. In addition, you will get cleaner cuts if you let the blade come to a stop in the down position. You will also get more accurate cuts with the workpiece face up/down instead of on its edge.

==Safety==

*Wear safety glasses.
*Wear hearing protection when operating loud machinery.
*Always know where your fingers are in relation to the blade and never place your fingers under the blade. Keep your guiding hand a safe distance from the cutting area (at least 4”); miter saws have claimed many fingers. There is no SawStop mechanism on this saw, so the blade will continue spinning if it comes in contact with a body part. Never cross your arms while using the miter saw.
*Do not use the miter saw if the blade guard is missing or improperly attached.
*Ensure your workpiece is seated firmly against the fence before making a cut.
*Ensure the workspace and floorspace are clear of clutter and trip/slip hazards.

====General Wood Shop Attire====

*Do not wear any loose-fitting clothing. Remove or roll up long-sleeve clothing.
*Do not wear any jewelry or accessories such as necklaces, scarves, watches, bracelets, rings, tiaras, or dangling earrings.
*Do not wear open-toed shoes or heels.
*If applicable, tie your hair up.
*Do not wear gloves; gloves hinder the ability to effectively use your hands.
All of these items have been known to get caught in moving machinery and/or increase the chances of an accident. Please use common sense and remember that most accidents are completely preventable by paying attention to detail and adhering to safety/training guidelines.

====General Notes On Proper Workpiece Size====

Many accidents occur simply because a person attempts to cut a piece of wood that is too small or too big. Small workpieces are easily grabbed by spinning blades, and the hand holding the workpiece can quickly follow. Use the 12/3 rule. If your workpiece is smaller than 12” long and 3” wide, seek help from an instructor before making your cut. On the other hand, oversized lumber is under control of the blade, not your hands. Because oversized lumber must be forced into the blade, the extra force required can cause slipping, thrusting, or sudden movements in the workpiece--sending body parts lunging forward toward the blade.

==Certification==
====Demonstration====

For the demonstration, find a piece of scrap wood and make an equilateral triangle.

====Canvas Quiz====

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1208 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Compound Miter Saw

2021-07-22T17:37:20Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has serial number= 440496
|Has icon=File:Miter Saw.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Compound Miter Saw image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Compound Miter Saw
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1208
|Has make=Dewalt
|Has model=DWS780
|Has ace=Needed;Needed
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

==Description==

Miter saws are a type of chop saw where the angle of the blade in relation to the fence is adjustable for making angled cuts (a.k.a. miter cuts). Compound miter saws can also tilt the blade to make bevels. They are primarily used for crosscuts through wood and are good for making repeated cuts at the same length.

Here are some example videos of miter saw use.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAymVRheJoA}}
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPUgrhnJVbU}}

==Terminology/Anatomy==
[[File:Miter Saw Diagram.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Miter Saw Diagram]]
'''Miter''' 
''noun'' 
# A tall headdress worn by bishops and senior abbots as a symbol of office, tapering to a point at front and back with a deep cleft between. 
# A joint made between two pieces of wood or other material at an angle of 90°, such that the line of junction bisects this angle. 
 
Other Names: Chop Saw 
 
'''Workpiece''' – an object (in this case a piece of wood) being worked on with a tool or machine. 
'''Keeper Piece''' – the piece you keep; “blessed are the peacemakers, for they shall be called sons of God.” – Matthew 5:9 
'''Offcut''' – scrap, the waste resulting from cutting a piece of wood. 
'''Fence''' – a fixture attached to the machine/tool that guides the workpiece in a straight line against it. 
'''Bevel''' – to cut an inclined or sloping angle (in reference to the z-axis) on a workpiece that is other than 90°; also, the angle itself. 
'''Crosscut''' – a cut perpendicular to the grain of the wood. 
'''Rip''' – a cut parallel to the grain of the wood. 
'''Kerf''' – the wood removed by a saw between the piece you keep and the offcut which is approximately equal to the width of the saw blade. 
'''Stop Block''' – a block of wood temporarily fixed in place to limit the travel of a workpiece as it is cut; also a block of wood that serves as a reference point when a number of pieces need to be crosscut to the same length. 
'''Sacrificial Fence (Auxiliary Fence)''' – a temporary fence attached to the main fence that is often damaged during the cutting process, then discarded. 
'''Detent (Positive Stop)''' – a preset adjustment on a device where the range of motion catches and stops until it is released, usually set for common angles such as 45° or 90°. 
 
* [https://servicenet.dewalt.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manual/N693246,%20DWS780.pdf#_ga=2.206105363.1243740501.1579028676-385056216.1578681539 User Manual]

==Training==
====Operation====

In contrast to the operation of a table saw or band saw, the workpiece on a miter saw remains stationary while the blade moves through it. The blade spins away from the user at the point of contact with the wood; this is why the user should always ensure that the workpiece is firmly against the fence before making a cut. This machine is only intended for cutting wood or wood-like materials. Do not cut metal or any type of ferrous material. All workpieces should be carefully inspected for foreign objects or defects before cutting (including nails, screws, staples, etc.). Do not make rip cuts with the miter saw; the blade is specifically designed for crosscuts. Sliding miter saws can cut wider workpieces than non-sliding miter saws. The maximum 90° crosscut capacity for this saw is 2”x14”. Push the saw through the workpiece (away from you) when using the slide functionality; do not pull the saw through the workpiece (towards you). Cutting on the pull stroke is likely to cause the saw blade to climb on top of the workpiece and violently throw the blade assembly towards the user.

====Notes On Proper Measuring====

Mark the workpiece at the desired cut-length and use a square to draw a perpendicular line where you want to make the cut. Do not center the blade on the perpendicular line to make the cut because the kerf will cause the keeper piece to be too short (by half the width of the blade). Think about which side of the workpiece will be the offcut and position the blade over the offcut region of your workpiece with the very edge of the blade on the perpendicular line.

====Making Cuts====

Only cut one workpiece at a time. 
Rehearse your cuts before making them. This simply refers to performing the motions of the cut without spinning up the blade to ensure your fingers are clear from the cutting area and to double-check measurements. 
When making a cut, squeeze the power trigger while the saw is in its fully-raised position and let the saw reach full speed before cutting into the workpiece. Slowly guide the blade through the workpiece; there is no need for fast movements or excessive downward force. 
After the workpiece is fully cut, let the blade come to a stop in the down position. If you lift the saw while the blade is still spinning, the teeth can potentially catch on the wood and throw the offcut in a random direction. This is especially important when using a stop block because the offcut is trapped between the blade and the stop block. In addition, you will get cleaner cuts if you let the blade come to a stop in the down position. You will also get more accurate cuts with the workpiece face up/down instead of on its edge.

==Safety==

*Wear safety glasses.
*Wear hearing protection when operating loud machinery.
*Always know where your fingers are in relation to the blade and never place your fingers under the blade. Keep your guiding hand a safe distance from the cutting area (at least 4”); miter saws have claimed many fingers. There is no SawStop mechanism on this saw, so the blade will continue spinning if it comes in contact with a body part. Never cross your arms while using the miter saw.
*Do not use the miter saw if the blade guard is missing or improperly attached.
*Ensure your workpiece is seated firmly against the fence before making a cut.
*Ensure the workspace and floorspace are clear of clutter and trip/slip hazards.

====General Wood Shop Attire====

*Do not wear any loose-fitting clothing. Remove or roll up long-sleeve clothing.
*Do not wear any jewelry or accessories such as necklaces, scarves, watches, bracelets, rings, tiaras, or dangling earrings.
*Do not wear open-toed shoes or heels.
*If applicable, tie your hair up.
*Do not wear gloves; gloves hinder the ability to effectively use your hands.
All of these items have been known to get caught in moving machinery and/or increase the chances of an accident. Please use common sense and remember that most accidents are completely preventable by paying attention to detail and adhering to safety/training guidelines.

====General Notes On Proper Workpiece Size====

Many accidents occur simply because a person attempts to cut a piece of wood that is too small or too big. Small workpieces are easily grabbed by spinning blades, and the hand holding the workpiece can quickly follow. Use the 12/3 rule. If your workpiece is smaller than 12” long and 3” wide, seek help from an instructor before making your cut. On the other hand, oversized lumber is under control of the blade, not your hands. Because oversized lumber must be forced into the blade, the extra force required can cause slipping, thrusting, or sudden movements in the workpiece--sending body parts lunging forward toward the blade.

==Certification==
====Demonstration====

For the demonstration, find a piece of scrap wood and make an equilateral triangle.

====Foxtale====

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1208 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

CNC Router

2021-07-22T17:33:38Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has serial number= 16124390
|Has group=Woodworking
|Has icon=File:CNC_router_icon.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Smartshop2_Image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Laguna CNC Router
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1215
|Has make=Laguna
|Has model=SmartShop II
|Has ace=David Demaree;ddemaree17@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

The Laguna SmartShop II is a CNC wood router capable of cutting out complex shapes that would otherwise be difficult to create by hand. Like all CNC machines, the SmartShop II is most useful when a design calls for a high level of precision, or is being mass produced.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_uOBg8Kc2k}}
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A90hoR7M1Ls&feature=emb_logo}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

*ZPO (Zero Point Offset) - The selected X and Y position on the material that coordinates with the program zero point.
*Collet- A piece of machined steel that clamps down and locates the cutter in the tool holder.
*Dust Shroud- A combination of sheet metal and flexible brush material that performs a seal around the area of material during the cutting process.
*Spoil Board- A porous sacrificial board used on top of the router bed but under the work piece.
*Regenerative Blower- This device produces the vacuum needed to pull material down onto the spoil board.
*Tool Holder- Cutters are placed in the tool holder and each holder gets pulled into the spindle during a tool change.
*Up Shear Router Bits- Normally used for deeper pockets as they evacuative chips better.
*Down Shear Router Bits- Normally used for shallow pockets and leaves a very clean edge. Tend to pile up the chips as they don't evacuate the chips very well.
*Combination (Compression) Router Bits- Helps keep a good finish on the material when using a laminate on both sides.
*Tool Touch-Off- A process of setting the Z axis height of a tool using the sensor built into the machine.

[https://860860.app.netsuite.com/core/media/media.nl?id=660566&c=860860&h=b0bfe5746d263d749d0f User Manual]

==Training==
====Operation====

To get started you will need to get a .DXF file from Solidworks or another program. The .DXF file will need to be imported into VCarve Pro software. VCarve is used to create the G-code used by the router. You will select the type of cuts and tooling inside the software. Most cutting jobs can be done using a 1/4" cutter. A good rule of thumb is to not exceed the diameter of the tool in depth per pass. In foam or soft materials you can cut deeper per pass. The large switch near the middle of cabinet is the main power. There is a key located on the control panel that also needs to be turned to the on position for the PC inside the machine to boot. After power up, make sure the table is clear before pressing the home button. The machine will move to the corner closest the control panel after moving the Z, X, and y axis to home position. Always keep your body outside the safety line while the machine is moving.

====Demonstration====

For the demonstration you will need to import a DXF file into VCarve Pro and convert it to G-code. You will also need to demonstrate safe startup and use of the router using the G-code file you produced.

====General Procedure====

==== Open VCarvePro software. ====
# To start a new project, you must first select “Create a new file.”
# Next, you will be prompted to input the width, height, and thickness of the material you are using.
# Ensure that the Z Zero Position is set to "Machine Bed." Our Smart Shop II machine is calibrated for this setting. If you use the material surface option, the end-mill will carve into the machine bed causing damage and potential injury.
# Select the XY Datum Position. Typically, it is easiest to not use an offset and origin your part off the bottom left corner of the material. If you are cutting a part that needs to be rotated and cut in 2 or more orientations an offset may be useful to line up your jig.
# If you wish, you may adjust the modeling resolution and color. Otherwise select OK.
# Now select "import vector".
# Make sure all the imported pieces are close together, but make sure they don't overlap.
# Starting with the inside features, you will hold the shift key and select all of the holes. Once they are all selected, go to Tool Path and select the appropriate Profile or pocketing Tool Path. Choose your cut depth, tool, parameters, and then select OK. Double-check that Inside Cut is also selected, and check the box for Ramp.
# To save the inside cutout tool path, select Calculate and OK.
# Select "preview selected tool path" to ensure the path is correct.
# Switch back to the 2D view and begin the process for cutting out your design. This starts by holding down the shift key and selecting the items.
# Select VCarve, and make sure the settings are correct. If you are satisfied, select Calculate and OK again. You can preview this part of the process as well.
# Go back to the 2D view to begin the outside cutout process.
# Holding the shift key down, you can now select the outer pieces that need to be cut out. Then select Close on the right side of the screen.
# Next, choose Tool Path, select Outside Cut, and change your tool and parameters as needed. Check the box for adding a Ramp, and hit Calculate.
# Preview the entire process before saving the file.
# Once you are happy with the design, select "Laguna SmartShop BR ATC(inch)(*prg)" post processor and "save toolpath(s)". You can copy the files onto a flash drive to import into the machine.

==Detailed Procedure==

=== Software ===
VCarve Pro is the software used in conjunction with the CNC router and may be found on the eight rolling computers in the [[The Hub]].

==== Job Setup ====
# Select the appropriate job type: single or double sided.
# Enter the size of your work-piece.
# Set the Z Zero Position to "Machine Bed." The Smart Shop II machine is calibrated for this setting. If you use the material surface option, the end-mill will carve into the machine bed causing damage and potential injury.
# Select the XY Datum Position. Typically, it is easiest to not use an offset and origin your part off the bottom left corner of the material. If you are cutting a part that needs to be rotated and cut in 2 or more orientations an offset may be useful to line up your jig.
# If you wish, you may adjust the modeling resolution and color. Otherwise select OK.

==== Vectors ====
# To Import the design you wish to cut go to File>Import>Import [your file type] and find your design. If you import a non-vector based design you will need to trace bitmap once imported.
# Select your design and use the arrow keys to position it to the desired location.
# Sometimes paths will not be joined properly (i.e. selecting one side of a rectangle does not select the entire rectangle). Vectors that aren't joined are treated as separate paths. Separate paths that should be joined may cause the bit to cut on the wrong side of the path. To join vectors simply press j to open the Join Vectors menu, select the vectors you wish to join and click Join.

==== Toolpaths ====
Creating tool-paths is a complex process that involves critical thinking and foresight into the cutting process. Please recognize that these instructions are by no means comprehensive and only address the simplest of the 2D tool paths features. If you wish to engrave, inlay, or do 3D carving do some research to determine the appropriate procedure. Finally, recognize that YOU ARE THE SAFETY MECHANISM on the CNC router. It will do what it is told even if that means crashing into the table or a tool holder because you accidentally told it to. All this to say that when you make a tool-path, be aware that the computer is dumb and will do what you tell it, not what you meant to tell it.
# To open the Toolpaths menu click the Toolpaths tab on the top right of your screen. Once the menu appears, turn off auto hide by clicking on the push pin icon.
# Before defining any Toolpaths it is a good idea to open the material setup menu and double check that everything is set up correctly.
## Thickness: It is obviously important that the thickness of your material is accurate to avoid cutting deep into the spoil-board or not all the way through your part.
## XY Datum: Ensure that you understand where the datum is so you can accurately position your part inside your lumber.
## Z -Zero MUST be set to Machine Bed. (This has been mentioned many times because it is very important).
## Model Position in Material: This is for 3D carving and is used to tell the computer where you want to *gasp* position the model in the material.
## Rapid Z Gaps above Material: This is very important if you are using any clamps, jigs or anything that sticks above the surface of your material to secure it to the spoil-board. The rapid z clearance tells the computer how far above your material surface it is safe to do rapid movements during the cutting process. 0.2 inches is a good height if you don't need a fixture. Otherwise, make sure that it is set high enough so that you will not crash into your fixture. Plunge tells the computer the height it is OK to do a rapid plunge at. This value will typically be equal to the rapid z clearance.
## Home: Defines where the start position is. Do not change this setting.
# Always perform inside cuts and pockets prior to cutting the outline of your part. Failure to do so may result in incorrect geometry due to the part shifting during the cutting process. The goal here is to leave the part as stable as possible for as long as possible.

General 2D Toolpath instructions:
# Cutting Depths: Start Depth tells the computer at what depth you wish to begin a cut. Unless you have already removed material over the entire path of the cut, the start depth should be zero. Cut depth is how deep you wish to cut. For a through cut set the cut depth equal to the thickness of the material. Do not set the cut depth deeper than the thickness of the material because it will cause unnecessary wear on the spoil board.
# Tool: Selecting your tool is important. For most operations a 1/4" end-mill will be sufficient. The biggest things to be aware of are the tool number and spindle speed. The tool number tells the computer which tool it is to pick up. The CNC is dumb and will not know what tool it is holding at any given time. All it knows is the tool number. it is ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL that you enter the correct tool number for all of your tools. Breaking off an end-mill spinning at 18000 rpm causing it to shoot across the room and impale you or your beloved engineering classmates will not win you favor. Also check that the rpm are appropriate, typically the default is fine. For a 1/4" end-mill set the speed to 18000 rpm.
# Passes: Adjust the number of passes such that the pass depth is less than the diameter of the end mill you are using.
# Ramp Plunge: This option plunges the end-mill on a ramp instead of going straight into the material. Generally it is wise to use this feature because it reduces the forces on the end-mill.
Pocket Toolpath

Profile Toolpath

Other Toolpath
# Research! You are a capable engineering student. You can do 15 minutes of research on your own prior to step 2.
# Consult the ace and technician. They might ask you questions about what you want to make. It would be great if you came in with some knowledge about the process because you spent 4 minutes reading about how to do what you want to do.

==== Final Steps ====
# Use the Preview Toolpaths feature to double check your part. Make sure that any inner geometry is cut first. You may need to use the reset preview option.
# Briefly look through your material set up, tool selections, and settings to be certain that you have correctly programmed the machine.
# Check (again) that the z zero position has been set to Machine Bed.
# Select Save Toolpath. Be sure that the "Output all visible toolpaths to one file" box is selected. Check that all of your toolpaths appear underneath "Toolpaths to be saved..." The tools should have the correct tool size and location indicated. Select the appropriate post processor: Laguna SmartShop BR ATC (inch) (*.prg).

=== Operation ===

==== Startup ====
*Connect the pneumatic air line located on the tool holder end of the machine.
*To power up the machine turn on the main power switch located on the base of the control panel.
*Turn on the key switch located near the screen located on the control panel and wait for the PC to boot.
*Make sure all of the axis are clear to move.
*Select HOME and wait for the machine to move to the 0,0 position. You should never be on the machine side of the yellow/black tape on the floor when the machine is operating.
*To manually load/unload a tool in the spindle you will need to press the green button on the left side of the spindle while holding onto the tool holder OD. To insert the tool press the button and slide the tool holder up into the spindle. To remove a tool press the button and tool will be ejected from the spindle. Do not allow your hands to make contact with the razor sharp cutting tool.

==== Material ====
Only cut wood when operating this machine unless specific approval has been given by the technician. Acrylic and foam may be cut with approval.

==== End Mills ====
*We have a variety of tooling but the majority of cutting should be done with a 1/4" tool. Talk with the technician while in the design phase.
*Whenever a tool is changed in the tool holder a touch off operation must be performed. This will calculate the distance the tool is sticking out of the holder and prevent damage to the table and your work of art.

==== Final Checks ====
There are some checks you should always do prior to running a program. Ask yourself the following questions before pressing the start button!

1. Is the material securely fastened to the table by vacuum or mechanical means?

2. Is the dust collector turned on?

3. Has the zero point been set in the correct location?

4. Is the pneumatic line connected to the machine?

5. Are the correct tools setup in the program and in their proper slot on the machine?

6. Is everyone clear of the machine?

7. Is the dust collection shroud going to collide with the material because I'm cutting beyond 3/4" deep?

8. Has the proper program been loaded?

9. Has the Z-zero position been set using the material bed and not the material surface?

==== Cutting ====
Always keep your finger near the stop button when starting your program. Most likely if something goes wrong it will happen early in the process so be ready to stop the machine. If you know the relationship between the brush on the dust shroud and the end of the tool you will have a good idea how deep the tool is when it cuts into the material. It is also very important to know what the program should be doing so you can verify the tool path is correct.

==== Reset the Space ====

When you have finished, park the cutting tool back into the storage rack at the end of the table. You will need to remove any material on the table and use the vacuum to clean off any leftover dust and chips. You can use the dust collector or portable vacuum. Make sure to disconnect the pneumatic air line and power down the machine with the spindle located off of the table. This will prevent any leaking oil from dripping on the table.

==Safety==
There are multiple hazards you need to be aware of when using the CNC router.
* The tooling is very sharp and spins at over 18,000 RPM. Keep your body parts away from the cutter and spindle. You need fingers for the ring you will get by spring.
* Stay behind the yellow/black safety line when operating the router. The router is very large and will not stop if you get in its way.
* Materials need to be securely fastened to the table by vacuum or mechanical means.
** This includes material that could be made loose during the cutting process. Use tabs to secure such material.
* Never attempt to cut a hole the same diameter as the cuter with a down cut force cutter. This will compress the chips and can create a fire due to the air draw of the vacuum table.
* Always wear ear protection when operating the CNC router.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1215 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
*If none of the control functions on the control panel appear to work, make sure the machine has been homed and the E-stop is released.
*If the cutting tool height appears to be incorrect make sure the tool touch off has been performed for the tool in use.
*If your tool path appears on the inside of your part, it is likely because the paths are not joined. To join your paths, highlight the paths you wish to join and press the j key.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

*The spoil board needs to be resurfaced as grooves are cut into the surface. Grooves will release a percentage of the table vacuum and increase the risk of the material moving during cutting.
*There are many bearing surfaces located on the router that need to be lubricated. The router is equipped with a central lubrication system the technician will operate on a regular basis.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Cycle Oiler
|Monthly
|Technician
|}

Belt Sander

2021-07-22T17:32:23Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has group=Woodworking
|Has icon=File:image_pending.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Ridgid-belt-sanders.jpg
|Has imagedesc= Ridgid R2740
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1259
|Has make=Rigid
|Has model=R2740
|Has serial number=CS18371D633445
|Has ace=Needed;Needed
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

The belt sander is used for sanding large, flat work-pieces. This is a tool that can greatly reduce the amount of time it takes to finish a project, but it can be difficult to master. This tool can remove material very quickly and is best used for rough sanding.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yp28YGvZHgQ}}

==Documentation==
[[:File:R2740 120 trilingual operatorManual.pdf|User Manual]]

====Terminology====

Tracking Adjustment- A fine adjustment knob for adjusting the angle of one roller to keep the belt running true on the roller set.

==Training==
====Operation====

[[File:Belt-sander-scribing.jpg|400px|thumb|right]]

A belt sander is a fantastic tool for large surfaces/objects that cannot be sanded using the belt/disc sander or would take too long to do by hand. They are commonly used for trimming to a scribed line, sanding very rough surfaces, leveling surfaces (like a replacement board in a hardwood floor), and freehand rounding and shaping. Because they have a lot of power and can handle coarse grits, they excel at the rapid removal of wood. Also, unlike orbital and vibrating sanders, the sanding action is linear, so even with coarse grits you can sand with the grain and get a good-looking result.

====Demonstration====

Demonstrate you can safely use the belt sander. You will then proceed to sand a piece of scrap material. Remember to always set the sander on its side to prevent it accidentally moving or doing damage. Make sure the belt is the correct grit and in good condition before use. Depending on your project you will want to start with different grits of sandpaper. A good starting grit for medium to heavy material removal would be 120 grit. If you want to be very aggressive with the material removal an 80 grit belt would be best. Sand along the grain with smooth strokes. Let the weight of the sander do the work and don't push down into the work. Don't let the sander hang very far over the edge of the work piece otherwise you risk taking more material off on the edge. Always start and stop the sander off of the workpiece. Make sure the work piece is secure prior to sanding.

====General Procedure====

In order to use the belt sander, begin by inspecting the sanding belt condition with the sander unplugged. Make sure the the sanding belt is not clogged with sawdust, remelted glue, or other gunk. A lever on the side will lock or unlock the belt in place. The knob located on the side near the roller allows the tracking of the sanding belt to be fine tuned. If the belt pulls to one side the knob should be used to finely adjust the roller angle to keep the sanding belt tracking. Material removal can happen quickly when using a belt sander with coarse grit so exercise caution. As a final step in the preparation to sand, ensure that the belt sander is set to run at an optimal speed for the type of wood and type of work to be done on that wood. The speed can be adjusted using the dial located near the hand grip.

Sand the workpiece by working with the grain, and aim to overlap each pass with the the belt sander by about half of the previous passes width (1 1/2 in). The belt sander's own weight will keep it on the workpiece and removing material- it should not take much additional pressure at all to sand the workpiece. Keep the belt sander flat. Rocking back and forth of the belt sander will result in scratches, nicks, and valleys in the surface. Exercise special care when the belt hangs off the workpiece, not holding the belt sander flat will result in more material being taken off the edge of the piece than elsewhere. Despite the most careful handling, natural variations in wood can cause some of the wood to be sanded off faster than wood elsewhere. It is often advisable to draw lines of over the area that is to be sanded with a soft leaded pencil. By observing the gradual fading and disappearance of these lines, a flatter surface can be maintained.

When finished with the belt sander, make sure it has stopped spinning before setting it down. Never place it on the workpiece as you may scratch or mar the material.

==Safety==
1. Both hands need to be on the sander while sanding. 
2. Keep hair away from the sander. 
3. Always lay the sander on its side when sanding is complete. 
4. Make sure to always unplug the sander before changing belts. 
5. Keep the belt away from you and others. 
6. Place the belt sander on its side when done to prevent unwanted sanding and the possibility of the sander moving when plugged in. 
7. Make sure material is secured prior to starting to sand. 

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1259 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
Ask a shop supervisor for help if you have any issues.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Basic cleaning and emptying of the dust collection bag is required during and after use.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Belt Sander

2021-07-22T17:29:51Z

Cpainter17: Undo revision 9052 by Cpainter17 (talk)

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has group=Woodworking
|Has icon=File:image_pending.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Ridgid-belt-sanders.jpg
|Has imagedesc= Ridgid R2740
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31328
|Has make=Rigid
|Has model=R2740
|Has serial number=CS18371D633445
|Has ace=Needed;Needed
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

The belt sander is used for sanding large, flat work-pieces. This is a tool that can greatly reduce the amount of time it takes to finish a project, but it can be difficult to master. This tool can remove material very quickly and is best used for rough sanding.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yp28YGvZHgQ}}

==Documentation==
[[:File:R2740 120 trilingual operatorManual.pdf|User Manual]]

====Terminology====

Tracking Adjustment- A fine adjustment knob for adjusting the angle of one roller to keep the belt running true on the roller set.

==Training==
====Operation====

[[File:Belt-sander-scribing.jpg|400px|thumb|right]]

A belt sander is a fantastic tool for large surfaces/objects that cannot be sanded using the belt/disc sander or would take too long to do by hand. They are commonly used for trimming to a scribed line, sanding very rough surfaces, leveling surfaces (like a replacement board in a hardwood floor), and freehand rounding and shaping. Because they have a lot of power and can handle coarse grits, they excel at the rapid removal of wood. Also, unlike orbital and vibrating sanders, the sanding action is linear, so even with coarse grits you can sand with the grain and get a good-looking result.

====Demonstration====

Demonstrate you can safely use the belt sander. You will then proceed to sand a piece of scrap material. Remember to always set the sander on its side to prevent it accidentally moving or doing damage. Make sure the belt is the correct grit and in good condition before use. Depending on your project you will want to start with different grits of sandpaper. A good starting grit for medium to heavy material removal would be 120 grit. If you want to be very aggressive with the material removal an 80 grit belt would be best. Sand along the grain with smooth strokes. Let the weight of the sander do the work and don't push down into the work. Don't let the sander hang very far over the edge of the work piece otherwise you risk taking more material off on the edge. Always start and stop the sander off of the workpiece. Make sure the work piece is secure prior to sanding.

====General Procedure====

In order to use the belt sander, begin by inspecting the sanding belt condition with the sander unplugged. Make sure the the sanding belt is not clogged with sawdust, remelted glue, or other gunk. A lever on the side will lock or unlock the belt in place. The knob located on the side near the roller allows the tracking of the sanding belt to be fine tuned. If the belt pulls to one side the knob should be used to finely adjust the roller angle to keep the sanding belt tracking. Material removal can happen quickly when using a belt sander with coarse grit so exercise caution. As a final step in the preparation to sand, ensure that the belt sander is set to run at an optimal speed for the type of wood and type of work to be done on that wood. The speed can be adjusted using the dial located near the hand grip.

Sand the workpiece by working with the grain, and aim to overlap each pass with the the belt sander by about half of the previous passes width (1 1/2 in). The belt sander's own weight will keep it on the workpiece and removing material- it should not take much additional pressure at all to sand the workpiece. Keep the belt sander flat. Rocking back and forth of the belt sander will result in scratches, nicks, and valleys in the surface. Exercise special care when the belt hangs off the workpiece, not holding the belt sander flat will result in more material being taken off the edge of the piece than elsewhere. Despite the most careful handling, natural variations in wood can cause some of the wood to be sanded off faster than wood elsewhere. It is often advisable to draw lines of over the area that is to be sanded with a soft leaded pencil. By observing the gradual fading and disappearance of these lines, a flatter surface can be maintained.

When finished with the belt sander, make sure it has stopped spinning before setting it down. Never place it on the workpiece as you may scratch or mar the material.

==Safety==
1. Both hands need to be on the sander while sanding. 
2. Keep hair away from the sander. 
3. Always lay the sander on its side when sanding is complete. 
4. Make sure to always unplug the sander before changing belts. 
5. Keep the belt away from you and others. 
6. Place the belt sander on its side when done to prevent unwanted sanding and the possibility of the sander moving when plugged in. 
7. Make sure material is secured prior to starting to sand. 

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31328 Foxtale Course]

==Troubleshooting==
Ask a shop supervisor for help if you have any issues.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Basic cleaning and emptying of the dust collection bag is required during and after use.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Belt/Disc Sander

2021-07-22T17:27:19Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has serial number=18100721
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Disc Belt Sander.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Belt and Disc Sander Image.png
|Has imagedesc=Belt and Disc Sander
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1200
|Has make=PowerMatic
|Has model=BD31A
|Has ace=Needed;Needed
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

The disc sander allows you to quickly remove material on outside corners and flat surfaces. The belt sander allows you to remove material on large inside corners and flat surfaces.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7emE49Wxcdo}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

[http://content.powermatic.com/assets/manuals/0460267_man_EN.pdf User Manual]

==Training==
====Operation====

The disc sander allows you to sand outside corners and flat surfaces using an abrasive disc. The belt can perform inside corner and flat surface sanding. The table angles can be adjusted to change the angle of cuts. The sanding table can be set between 15 and 45 degrees. The belt arm can be adjusted between 0 and 90 degrees with the arm locking handle. It is important to inspect the sanding disc and belt for wear before use. If you notice any holes or cuts in a belt let the supervisor know before trying to power the machine. Tears can be caused by leaving material in the same spot too long. Try to keep work moving across the belt/disc to prevent damage. The disc normally won't tear but it will turn dark and have burn marks.

====Demonstration====

You will need to demonstrate the safe setup and use of the belt/disc sander. You will be sketching an arc onto a piece of scrap material and sanding up to the line using the disc and belt. Make sure to keep the material moving to prevent burning and tearing of the sanding belt/disc.

====General Procedure====

1. Obtain a piece of scrap wood. If the work piece is too small it will be difficult to hold onto and create a dangerous situation by placing your fingers too close to the belt/disc.

2. Using a pencil or pen sketch a radius or line onto the edge of your material.

3. Make sure the belt and disc are in good shape and secure.

4. Connect the dust collector hose to the sander.

5. Power on the dust collector and sander.

6. Place the material onto the table and slowly feed your material into the belt/disc using both hands for a rigid grip. Make sure your hands/fingers are clear of any moving parts.

7. Keep the material moving to prevent too much heat in one spot.

8. Keep sanding until you cut the material back to your line.

9. When you are finished sanding power down the dust collector and sander.

10. Make sure all motion has stopped before cleaning the machine.

11. Reset the space.

==Safety==
* Sanding creates heat due to the friction. keep material moving to prevent damage to the sanding belt/disc.
* Never put your hand in a position that slipping could cause you to make contact with the belt or disc.
* Never reach over the machine while working or turning off the power. This can be very dangerous as you or your clothing could make contact with the spinning belt or disc.
* Use a brush when clearing sawdust from the tables, not your hands.
* Use light pressure when removing material. Never try to force feed the machine.
* Avoid kickbacks by sanding on the correct side of the disc. Always sand on the downward side of the disc, which is just left of center on a disc rotating counterclockwise. Sanding on the wrong side is dangerous and can pull material out of your hands.

==Certification==
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1200 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
If belts have hole or tears they need to be replaced.
Burnt discs need to be replaced.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The following items need to be periodically lubricated:
* Idler slide (use non hardening grease)
*Table trunnion (use non hardening grease)

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Replace sanding Belt/Pad
|As Needed
|Ace/Tech
|}

Belt Sander

2021-07-22T17:25:57Z

Cpainter17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has group=Woodworking
|Has icon=File:image_pending.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Ridgid-belt-sanders.jpg
|Has imagedesc= Ridgid R2740
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1200
|Has make=Rigid
|Has model=R2740
|Has serial number=CS18371D633445
|Has ace=Needed;Needed
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

The belt sander is used for sanding large, flat work-pieces. This is a tool that can greatly reduce the amount of time it takes to finish a project, but it can be difficult to master. This tool can remove material very quickly and is best used for rough sanding.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yp28YGvZHgQ}}

==Documentation==
[[:File:R2740 120 trilingual operatorManual.pdf|User Manual]]

====Terminology====

Tracking Adjustment- A fine adjustment knob for adjusting the angle of one roller to keep the belt running true on the roller set.

==Training==
====Operation====

[[File:Belt-sander-scribing.jpg|400px|thumb|right]]

A belt sander is a fantastic tool for large surfaces/objects that cannot be sanded using the belt/disc sander or would take too long to do by hand. They are commonly used for trimming to a scribed line, sanding very rough surfaces, leveling surfaces (like a replacement board in a hardwood floor), and freehand rounding and shaping. Because they have a lot of power and can handle coarse grits, they excel at the rapid removal of wood. Also, unlike orbital and vibrating sanders, the sanding action is linear, so even with coarse grits you can sand with the grain and get a good-looking result.

====Demonstration====

Demonstrate you can safely use the belt sander. You will then proceed to sand a piece of scrap material. Remember to always set the sander on its side to prevent it accidentally moving or doing damage. Make sure the belt is the correct grit and in good condition before use. Depending on your project you will want to start with different grits of sandpaper. A good starting grit for medium to heavy material removal would be 120 grit. If you want to be very aggressive with the material removal an 80 grit belt would be best. Sand along the grain with smooth strokes. Let the weight of the sander do the work and don't push down into the work. Don't let the sander hang very far over the edge of the work piece otherwise you risk taking more material off on the edge. Always start and stop the sander off of the workpiece. Make sure the work piece is secure prior to sanding.

====General Procedure====

In order to use the belt sander, begin by inspecting the sanding belt condition with the sander unplugged. Make sure the the sanding belt is not clogged with sawdust, remelted glue, or other gunk. A lever on the side will lock or unlock the belt in place. The knob located on the side near the roller allows the tracking of the sanding belt to be fine tuned. If the belt pulls to one side the knob should be used to finely adjust the roller angle to keep the sanding belt tracking. Material removal can happen quickly when using a belt sander with coarse grit so exercise caution. As a final step in the preparation to sand, ensure that the belt sander is set to run at an optimal speed for the type of wood and type of work to be done on that wood. The speed can be adjusted using the dial located near the hand grip.

Sand the workpiece by working with the grain, and aim to overlap each pass with the the belt sander by about half of the previous passes width (1 1/2 in). The belt sander's own weight will keep it on the workpiece and removing material- it should not take much additional pressure at all to sand the workpiece. Keep the belt sander flat. Rocking back and forth of the belt sander will result in scratches, nicks, and valleys in the surface. Exercise special care when the belt hangs off the workpiece, not holding the belt sander flat will result in more material being taken off the edge of the piece than elsewhere. Despite the most careful handling, natural variations in wood can cause some of the wood to be sanded off faster than wood elsewhere. It is often advisable to draw lines of over the area that is to be sanded with a soft leaded pencil. By observing the gradual fading and disappearance of these lines, a flatter surface can be maintained.

When finished with the belt sander, make sure it has stopped spinning before setting it down. Never place it on the workpiece as you may scratch or mar the material.

==Safety==
1. Both hands need to be on the sander while sanding. 
2. Keep hair away from the sander. 
3. Always lay the sander on its side when sanding is complete. 
4. Make sure to always unplug the sander before changing belts. 
5. Keep the belt away from you and others. 
6. Place the belt sander on its side when done to prevent unwanted sanding and the possibility of the sander moving when plugged in. 
7. Make sure material is secured prior to starting to sand. 

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1200 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
Ask a shop supervisor for help if you have any issues.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Basic cleaning and emptying of the dust collection bag is required during and after use.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Wood Shop

2021-07-22T17:21:37Z

Cpainter17:

The wood shop is a 975 square foot space. It contains a table saw, radial arm miter saw, planer, jointer, drill press, bandsaw, scroll saw, oscillating spindle sander, combination belt and disc sander, lathe, and other hand tools. It also contains a large CNC router. The shop is also equipped with compressed air quick connections for powering tools and machines. There are two air filtration units located up high in the ceiling. When producing wood dust turn on the filtration units with the white remote control. Theses do a good job of removing a large percentage of the wood dust from the air. [[File:Wood_Shop.jpg|300px|thumb|The Wood Shop]]

The current Maker Hub Student Staff in the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
{{#set:
|Is facility=True
|Has ace=David Demaree;ddemaree17@georgefox.edu
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1255
}}

__TOC__

=Schedule=
The Wood Shop hours are Monday - Friday 2pm-5pm.

=Equipment Overview =
{{#ask:
[[Is equipment::true]]
[[Is located in facility::Wood Shop]]
|?Has make=Company
|?Has model=Model |+width=10em
|?Has ace.Has name=Current Ace
|format=broadtable
|mainlabel=Name
}}
==Equipment by Icon==
{{#ask:
[[Is equipment::True]][[Has icon::+]] [[Is located in facility::Wood Shop]]
|?Has icon=Icon
|?Is located in facility
|format=plainlist
|template=EquipmentIconGallery
|outrotemplate=EquipmentIconGalleryOutro
|limit=100
|link=none
|sort=Is located in facility
}}
==[[3 commandments]]==

=== 1. Safety First ===
Safety First is the rule we hold highest of the three. This rule applies to both the safety of you as well as others

Keeping yourself safe in the Wood Shop is very important, as there are possibilities for accidents if you don't follow the safety guidelines. Safety starts with you so don't depend on others to keep you safe. There is a first aid kit located on the south wall near the Wood Shop door. The following rules must be followed at all times.

All the same safety rules from the machine shop apply:

* Safety glasses must be worn when crossing the yellow line in shop area marked on the floor.

* No horseplay in the shop.

* Don’t do anything distracting to yourself or others while operating machinery.

* Do not wear any loose clothing, jewelry, or landyards.

* No hats or open toed shoes.

* Hair will not extend bellow the collar.

* Do not wear gloves while operating machinery.

* Food or drink is allowed when not operating machinery and it is kept a safe distance away from the machines.

* Do not attempt to operate machinery in the shop that you have not been certified on by GFU engineering personnel.

* Do not argue with volunteers or shop staff. Contact Justin Johnson if you have issues that need to be resolved.

* Do not operate machinery without a shop supervisor or trained volunteer in the shop with you. Never operate equipment alone in the shop.

* Reset the space. Make the area you are working in ready for the next person using the dust broom and vacuum cleaner.

* The first aid kit is located in the machine shop, next to the wood shop doors.

* If you see a safety violation inform the person immediately and encourage them to comply with the policies

* Don’t do anything that would require an additional rule to be added to this list.

=== 2. Reset the Space ===
The Wood Shop has a specific organization to it. Put whatever you use back where it belongs. There is a place for everything and everything has a place. This rule applies to everything in the space. If you use a tool, put it back. If you use a pen, put it back. Throw away your trash and recycling.

Now, we understand that sometimes you need to leave projects out. Maybe you are in the middle of a large project and you need something left overnight. In cases like this, it is okay, but you NEED to make prior arrangements with Nick or Justin.

Please put back the Machinery the way you found it. Clean up chips and any messes you make. NEVER use shop air to clean off yourself or the machines.

Always put any unused materials back on the storage shelf, and throw away unusable scrap.

Always leave the space better than you found it.

=== 3. Be Professional ===
This commandment has two sides to it. It covers the idea of acting like professional (which Webster’s defines as “exhibiting a courteous, conscientious, and generally businesslike manner in the workplace”). The term also describes the standards of education and training that prepare members of the profession with the particular knowledge and skills necessary to perform their specific role within that profession. Hopefully, you are learning both of these as part of your education at George Fox University. In the Welding Lab we expect you to develop as a courteous, conscientious, and skilled craftsman, understanding the tools and equipment in the Maker Hub and how to use them effectively.

Being a professional has some obvious ramifications in terms of behavior. First, be Christlike. Think of others better than yourselves. Share. If you have been welding for a prolonged time and someone else is waiting for the machine, let them use the machine for a while. This is being a professional.

If you are learning to how to use a machine, and you can't get something to work the way you want - ASK SOMEONE! Learn! Become a professional. Learn the craft. This is an educational space. You might think it will be quick and you can just get it done “your” way and not learn how to do it correctly. Be a Professional and learn the proper way, and then be available to teach others.

One very important, and likely difficult part of being a professional is to correct others when they are not being professional. It is your responsibility to speak up when you see somebody doing something inappropriate. If you see somebody doing something unsafe, not resetting the space, or being unprofessional, the professional thing to do is to remind them of the three commandments and ask them politely to correct their action. This is OUR space, not any individual's. As a group, we expect everyone in the space to keep the space safe, clean, and operable for everyone.

If someone acts disgracefully unprofessional to you in the Machine Shop, you are welcome to bring the issue to Justin or Nick's attention.

==General Wood Shop Knowledge==
Woodworking is dangerous. Be careful.

=== Gluing ===
Glue joints (when done correctly) will create a bond stronger than the wood itself. To create a strong glue joint follow this general procedure. It is worth noting that gluing end grain yields a very weak glue joint and should be avoided.
# Ensure that both surfaces that you wish to glue are flat or mate together well.
# Dry fit your glue joint with clamps. This will ensure that your joint fits properly and that all necessary clamps are close by and sized correctly when you go to apply glue.
# You can never have too many clamps.
# Get a handful of paper towels to help clean up glue squeeze out and the glue you will get on your fingers.
# Recognize that once you start applying glue you are on a clock to finish setting up the glue joint before the set time.
# Apply a bead of glue on one surface of your glue joint. Then, spread out that glue into a thin film using your fingers, a glue brush, or a glue roller.
# Repeat step 5 for the other surface of your glue joint such that both surfaces have a thin, even film of glue.'
# Quickly use a paper towel to wipe your fingers clean of glue. The goal here is to remove most of the wet glue so it doesn't get spread all over your lumber. Do NOT take the time to clean all of the glue.
# Using the clamps you already gathered, clamp your glue joint together
# You can never have too many clamps.
# After 5-10 minutes, wipe up the excess glue squeeze out.

=== General Knowledge ===
* The Table Saw is the center of the shop because it is the most frequently used tool.

* Always inspect materials for nails or metal. Metal debris in wood will damage the equipment and possibly cause injury to you.
* Make sure the process you are using is correct for your material type.
* Get help handling larger pieces of wood.
* When making dust turn on the dust filtration units.
* You can't learn woodworking on a wiki page... Go to the wood shop and start making things!
Here are a couple things to keep in mind:
* Some wood dust can be toxic. Be aware of the type of wood you are working with.
* Blades and cutters are very sharp so always think before touching.
* Be aware of the location of your fingers in relation to blades and cutters. Never let your hands or finger come close to the blade path.
* Be aware of people and what they are doing around you.
* Be aware of what is on the floor around you. Don't trip on dust collector hoses or electrical cords.
* May of the machines that remove material are very load. Wear ear protection when needed.
* If something feels like it could be dangerous ask a supervisor before attempting.

== Foxtale Certification ==
Before working with any of the equipment in the Wood Shop you will need to take the [https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1255 general lab quiz] as well as the specific quiz for each machine you are trying to use. The enrollment code for all of the quizzes is MakerHub.

<!-->
{{#ask:
[[Is equipment::True]]
[[Is located in facility::Wood Shop]]
|?Has icon
|format=gallery
|imageproperty=Has icon
}}

3D Scanners

2021-07-01T23:56:58Z

Cpainter17: /* Operation */

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=The Vault
|Is used in domain= Plastic
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has serial number=10.48856676 / 30.67367115
|Has icon=File:3D_scannersIcon.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Artec-spider-and-eva.jpg
|Has imagedesc= Artec Spider & Eva
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31718
|Has make=Artec
|Has model=Spider & Eva
|Has ace=Klayton Rhoads;krhoads16@georgefox.edu

}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==
'''Spider''':
A new and enhanced precision instrument for CAD users and engineers, Artec Space Spider is a high-resolution 3D scanner based on blue light technology. It is perfect for capturing small objects or intricate details of large industrial objects in high resolution, with steadfast accuracy and brilliant color.
The scanner’s ability to render complex geometry, sharp edges and thin ribs sets our technology apart. It is an ideal industrial 3D scanner for high resolution capturing of objects such as molding parts, PCBs, keys, coins or even a human ear, followed by the export of the final 3D model to CAD software.

'''Eva''':
This structured light 3D scanner is the ideal choice for making a quick, textured and accurate 3D model of medium sized objects such as a human bust, an alloy wheel, or a motorcycle exhaust system. It scans quickly, capturing precise measurements in high resolution.
Light, fast and versatile, Eva is our most popular scanner and a market leader in handheld 3D scanners. Based on safe-to-use structured light scanning technology, it is an excellent all round solution for capturing objects of almost any kind, including objects with black and shiny surfaces.
Artec Eva’s ease of use, speed and precision has made it an essential product for a wide range of industries. From rapid prototyping to quality control, CGI to heritage preservation, the automotive industry to forensics, medicine and prosthetics to aerospace, the device is used to customize, innovate and streamline countless forward-thinking industries. Eva was even used to scan Barack Obama and help make the very first 3D portrait of an American president.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KRxBuCYidsI}}

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wT2SRzSDEBo}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

STL - A file format made up of surface geometry. This is a common file type for use with 3D printing.

[https://www.artec3d.com/files/pdf/artec_studio_userguide_en.pdf User Manual]

==Training==
====Operation====

The first step is to determine which scanner is correct for the job you will be doing. The spider is normally used when you need more detail and are dealing with smaller objects as the EVA is better for larger projects. When setting up the scanners you will need to connect the USB and power cord. There are two videos provided to get you started using the software. Make sure to move the scanner in a slow pattern and keep your arm and wrist flexible rather than rigid. You will find it easier to control the scanner if you watch the computer screen rather than staring at the object being scanned. Using a turn table will help keep the scanner aligned with the object being scanned. You can flip the part over if needed to scan the underside. The software does an amazing job of alignment.

====Demonstration====

Complete a scan of a small object like a Lego.

====General Procedure====

1. Choose which scanner you are going to use. The Spider can pick up more detail but has a small field of vision. Consequently, this is a good choice for smaller objects with many details. This scanner works best when it is held still while the object is rotated. When scanning larger objects like people this scanner is more difficult to use because of this field of vision. The Eva is not as detailed as the spider but is designed for larger objects and has a larger field of view. When scanning, it works well to walk around the object while scanning.

2. Plug the desired scanner into the computer and open the artec studios software.

3. Plug in scanner power and USB cables

4. Open Artec Studio

5. For Space Spider, wait for current temperature to reach optimal temperature range in order for accuracy to be at its best.

6. Press the rocker switch or slider up in order to enter preview mode

7. When scanning, make sure that the blue distance waveform is within the three green regions on the distance meter in order to get the best results.

[[File:Scan_Graph.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px]]

8. Adjust texture brightness until detail is visible but colors are not blown out. This will need to be adjusted for each object scanned.

9. When scanning shiny or dark objects with the Space Spider, it may be necessary to adjust the sensitivity for the object to be scanned correctly. However, increasing the sensitivity will cause the scanner to capture more noise, increasing processing time. As a rule of thumb, don’t increase the sensitivity over 1/4 of the bar’s range. This step is not necessary with the Eva.

10. If speed is more important than accuracy, check the Real-time fusion box to make Artec Studio render the model in real time, removing the rendering step that is usually necessary after scanning.

11. For some objects, such as larger floorstanding objects, it may be helpful to check the Enable automatic base removal box in order to remove the base from the model during processing.

12. If scanning a smaller object, it is much easier to place the object on a turntable and scan it there.

13. Press the up button again to begin scanning the object.

14. While scanning, watch the computer screen to make sure that the distance from the scanner to the object is within the green range and that the object is at the center of the field of view.

15. Move the scanner all the way around the object with smooth motion, capturing as many different angles as possible. Once you have captured all you can with the object in its current position, press the down button on the scanner to stop, turn the object onto a different side, and repeat the scanning process.

16. Once you have captured enough angles, click on the Autopilot button on the left, select all the scans you would like to use, and adjust the scan quality values, following the in-software suggestions. Then click Next

17. If you did not select automatic base removal, or if there are extraneous objects that need to be removed, edit the object. Otherwise, skip the following step.

18. In the editing pane, select Cutoff-plane selection and draw on the base you would like to remove. Then, click next.

19. If alignment does not work properly, move the models next to each other and select several points, once on one model and once on the other, so that Artec Studio knows how to align the models.

20. Once alignment is complete, go to File/Export mesh and select the format to use for export.

==Safety==
The scanners are very fragile. Take care to prevent damage by dropping. Never pull on the scanner cords as the connectors could be easily damaged. Keep your fingers off of the optical lens as the grease from your fingers can cause issues.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31718 Foxtale Course]

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Scanners should be wiped down with a dry cloth as needed. Avoid touching lens windows.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|N/A
|N/A
|N/A
|}

3D Scanners

2021-07-01T23:56:25Z

Cpainter17: /* Operation */

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=The Vault
|Is used in domain= Plastic
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has serial number=10.48856676 / 30.67367115
|Has icon=File:3D_scannersIcon.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Artec-spider-and-eva.jpg
|Has imagedesc= Artec Spider & Eva
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31718
|Has make=Artec
|Has model=Spider & Eva
|Has ace=Klayton Rhoads;krhoads16@georgefox.edu

}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==
'''Spider''':
A new and enhanced precision instrument for CAD users and engineers, Artec Space Spider is a high-resolution 3D scanner based on blue light technology. It is perfect for capturing small objects or intricate details of large industrial objects in high resolution, with steadfast accuracy and brilliant color.
The scanner’s ability to render complex geometry, sharp edges and thin ribs sets our technology apart. It is an ideal industrial 3D scanner for high resolution capturing of objects such as molding parts, PCBs, keys, coins or even a human ear, followed by the export of the final 3D model to CAD software.

'''Eva''':
This structured light 3D scanner is the ideal choice for making a quick, textured and accurate 3D model of medium sized objects such as a human bust, an alloy wheel, or a motorcycle exhaust system. It scans quickly, capturing precise measurements in high resolution.
Light, fast and versatile, Eva is our most popular scanner and a market leader in handheld 3D scanners. Based on safe-to-use structured light scanning technology, it is an excellent all round solution for capturing objects of almost any kind, including objects with black and shiny surfaces.
Artec Eva’s ease of use, speed and precision has made it an essential product for a wide range of industries. From rapid prototyping to quality control, CGI to heritage preservation, the automotive industry to forensics, medicine and prosthetics to aerospace, the device is used to customize, innovate and streamline countless forward-thinking industries. Eva was even used to scan Barack Obama and help make the very first 3D portrait of an American president.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KRxBuCYidsI}}

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wT2SRzSDEBo}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

STL - A file format made up of surface geometry. This is a common file type for use with 3D printing.

[https://www.artec3d.com/files/pdf/artec_studio_userguide_en.pdf User Manual]

==Training==
====Operation====

The first step is to determine which scanner is correct for the job you will be doing. The spider is normally used when you need more detail and are dealing with smaller objects as the EVA is better for larger projects. When setting up the scanners you will need to connect the USB and power cord. There are two videos provided to get you started using the software. Make sure to move the scanner in a slow pattern and keep you arm and wrist flexible rather than rigid. You will find it easier to control the scanner if you watch the computer screen rather than staring at the object being scanned. Using a turn table will help keep the scanner aligned with the object being scanned. You can flip the part over if needed to scan the underside. The software does an amazing job of alignment.

====Demonstration====

Complete a scan of a small object like a Lego.

====General Procedure====

1. Choose which scanner you are going to use. The Spider can pick up more detail but has a small field of vision. Consequently, this is a good choice for smaller objects with many details. This scanner works best when it is held still while the object is rotated. When scanning larger objects like people this scanner is more difficult to use because of this field of vision. The Eva is not as detailed as the spider but is designed for larger objects and has a larger field of view. When scanning, it works well to walk around the object while scanning.

2. Plug the desired scanner into the computer and open the artec studios software.

3. Plug in scanner power and USB cables

4. Open Artec Studio

5. For Space Spider, wait for current temperature to reach optimal temperature range in order for accuracy to be at its best.

6. Press the rocker switch or slider up in order to enter preview mode

7. When scanning, make sure that the blue distance waveform is within the three green regions on the distance meter in order to get the best results.

[[File:Scan_Graph.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px]]

8. Adjust texture brightness until detail is visible but colors are not blown out. This will need to be adjusted for each object scanned.

9. When scanning shiny or dark objects with the Space Spider, it may be necessary to adjust the sensitivity for the object to be scanned correctly. However, increasing the sensitivity will cause the scanner to capture more noise, increasing processing time. As a rule of thumb, don’t increase the sensitivity over 1/4 of the bar’s range. This step is not necessary with the Eva.

10. If speed is more important than accuracy, check the Real-time fusion box to make Artec Studio render the model in real time, removing the rendering step that is usually necessary after scanning.

11. For some objects, such as larger floorstanding objects, it may be helpful to check the Enable automatic base removal box in order to remove the base from the model during processing.

12. If scanning a smaller object, it is much easier to place the object on a turntable and scan it there.

13. Press the up button again to begin scanning the object.

14. While scanning, watch the computer screen to make sure that the distance from the scanner to the object is within the green range and that the object is at the center of the field of view.

15. Move the scanner all the way around the object with smooth motion, capturing as many different angles as possible. Once you have captured all you can with the object in its current position, press the down button on the scanner to stop, turn the object onto a different side, and repeat the scanning process.

16. Once you have captured enough angles, click on the Autopilot button on the left, select all the scans you would like to use, and adjust the scan quality values, following the in-software suggestions. Then click Next

17. If you did not select automatic base removal, or if there are extraneous objects that need to be removed, edit the object. Otherwise, skip the following step.

18. In the editing pane, select Cutoff-plane selection and draw on the base you would like to remove. Then, click next.

19. If alignment does not work properly, move the models next to each other and select several points, once on one model and once on the other, so that Artec Studio knows how to align the models.

20. Once alignment is complete, go to File/Export mesh and select the format to use for export.

==Safety==
The scanners are very fragile. Take care to prevent damage by dropping. Never pull on the scanner cords as the connectors could be easily damaged. Keep your fingers off of the optical lens as the grease from your fingers can cause issues.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31718 Foxtale Course]

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Scanners should be wiped down with a dry cloth as needed. Avoid touching lens windows.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|N/A
|N/A
|N/A
|}

Handheld CNC Router

2021-06-28T22:07:40Z

Cpainter17: /* General Procedure */

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:CNC Hand Router.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Shaper-Origin-Hero-Shot.jpg
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31325
|Has make=Shaper
|Has model= S01-NN Origin
|Has serial number=40083933
|Has ace=Needed;Needed
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The handheld CNC is a relatively small and portable computer automated router that can be moved around a flat, wooden surface. It uses location tracking and a moving spindle to provide an easy way to make precise cuts using a handheld machine which makes it great for performing high precision or detailed cuts. A camera is used to track its location by referencing a special tape which you apply to the surface you want to cut on. The spindle and router bit for the CNC are small, so the CNC is best suited for shallow cuts and engraving work. Despite the shallow cuts, the CNC is still capable of cutting non-shallow material thicknesses, it just means that multiple passes will have to be made.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0clzXWSaCw}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* SVG - SVG is the file type for the graphics file that the CNC uses for its cuts. SVG stands for “Scalable Vector Graphics” and can be opened/modified with Adobe Illustrator, GIMP, and some others.
* Pocket Cut - The cut setting for hallowing out the center of a shape.
* Shaper Tape - A custom tape with special graphics on it that is used by the router to orient itself in space.
* Spindle - The part of the router that spins.
* Collet - The clamp that secures the router bits.

==== [https://assets.shapertools.com/manual/Shaper_Origin_Product_Manual.pdf User Manual] ====

==Training==
====Operation====
Before a cut can be performed with the handheld CNC router you must provide a cut design in the form of an SVG file. These can be created in several different programs but Inkscape is recommended because it is installed on the hub computers and is free to download onto a personal device. When designing your cut use the actual dimensions of the cut. If it is your first time using Inkscape there are tutorials on [https://inkscape.org/learn/tutorials/ their website] and [https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEQXp_fcqwPcqrzNtWJ1w9w Youtube] as well. Alternatively, you can download SVG from a website like [https://thenounproject.com/ this]. After you have created the cut file transfer it to the router using a USB drive or by uploading it over WiFi.

Take the CNC out of the box, set it on a flat, wooden surface, and plug it in. Ensure that the dust collection vacuum is working and has a good seal on the CNC connecting piece. You should never use the CNC without dust collection working! Determine the area on the wood material that you want to cut on and place several strips of tape a bit beyond the width and height of the area you’ll need, with 4-6 inch separation between the tape strips (they don’t need to be straight and parallel, they can be crooked). The CNC uses this tape to manage the CNC’s position. Double check that the correct router bit is secure and in place in the spindle. If the router bit needs to be replaced or secured, make sure that the spindle is turned off and unplugged from the main computer of the router before you take the spindle out of its place. Keep in mind that the switch for the spindle only turns off the spindle, not the CNC computer system.

On the touch interface, select the scan mode and create a new scan for the tape. Move the CNC around the surface until all of the (unripped) tape is highlighted blue. It is important to have enough tape, if the CNC loses track of enough tape it will immediately raise the spindle and stop the router from cutting any material. Once you’re ready, go to the cut menu on the CNC’s touch interface and select the correct diameter for your router bit and the depth your want to cut. It will ask you to “touch off”, select yes. Touching off means that the CNC will lower the router until it just touches the surface in order to calibrate the depth control for the router. Select the appropriate cut type (inside, outside, on-line, or pocket) for the cut you will be making. The pocket cut type will cut out the entire area of the shape you have selected. The guide cut type will not act as a cutting line, it will only show on the display as a reference. You can preview the cut size and direction by looking at the direction of the dashed outline and the thicker, grey line on top of the small, dashed line. Double check that the spindle speed (the control wheel to the right of the spindle) is set correctly. Before you make your first cut, double check the tape accuracy by moving the CNC around and watching the tape icon on the top-right of the display. This shows how much tape is visible to the camera, so the more full the tape bar is the better. If it is consistently low, it may be best to add more tape and do a new scan. Once these things have been completed, you should be good to go for cutting! Keep in mind that you may have to do multiple passes to get the right depth and you may also have to change cut type depending on what kind of cut you’re trying to make.

====Demonstration====

For the demonstration, download [https://thenounproject.com/search/?q=bear&i=121661 this file] as an SVG and open it in Inkscape. Download the [https://support.shapertools.com/hc/en-us/articles/115002735794-Using-the-Template SVG template] from Shaper's website and copy that into the previously downloaded image. Use the eyedropper tool and paint can tool to replace the black outline of the bear with the grey color found on the template. Add a black box around the bear to act as an edge to cut through. Make sure that there is enough distance from the box to the bear, as the black line indicates an inside cut (so the router bit will be cutting on the inside of the box). Once finished, delete the template and save the file as an SVG to an SD card. Complete the demonstration by setting up the router and cutting the file.

====General Procedure====
Included in this section are some helpful videos made by Shaper that walk through the entire process of using the router. It is highly recommended that you look through the videos but if you do not then there are instructions walking through the same process.

Setting up the Cut Area:
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sdsMOPZFMRQ}}
# Remove the router and from its box.
# Power on the router buy plugging in the device. Do not flip the switch attached to the spindle motor to the on position.
# Place at least three strips of Shaper Tape slightly above the area you want to cut so that the router will be able to orient itself. They do not have to be straight line but do need to be in the same plane.
# Select the new scan option on the router and move the router around the work area until all of the tape is highlighted in blue on the screen. This establishes a work plane that the router can reference during a cut. After you have scanned the tape it will take some time for the router to stitch together the work space in its software. Once it is completed, a screen will appear displaying a cross hare that represents the location of the router bit on the work space. You can also zoom out by double tapping the screen to see the complete work area.
# Select the design option on the right of the screen to move onto setting up the cut.
# Bring the file onto the router. The router is capable of receiving files WiFi using individual Shaper accounts but it is quicker and easier to use a Usb drive to transfer files. If using a Usb drive, plug it into the side of the router and then use the plus symbol on the left of the screen to navigate to your file. After selecting your file, the router should display the work space with the file overlaid on top of it.
# Move the cut file to your desired location and press place to establish where you want to cut on the work space. You can put it in a very precise place by zooming in and matching the edges the cut file and work piece together.
# Install your desired bit. Unscrew the bolt on the right of the spindle just loose enough to remove the spindle. To remove the router bit, press down on the locking mechanism and twist the collet until the router bit can be removed. Make sure that the router bit grooves are not below a quarter inch from the top of the collet. Once a new router bit has been put in place, use the wrench to tighten the collet. Reinsert the spindle into the slot on the CNC and tighten the bolt “finger tight”.
# Hook up the router to the dust collection system (aka the shop vac) using the included hose and the dust port on the router base.
# Press the cut option on the right of the screen and you are ready to cut.
# Make sure that you place a spoil board below the material you are cutting so that you do not cut the table. Also be sure to secure the work piece so that it will not shift while you are routing. There is not a specific way to do this but double sided tape may be helpful.

Performing a Cut:
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DekAjAOIVvQ}}
# Select the air cut type in the upper left of the screen and move the router over top of your first cut line so that the line is highlighted as moving dashed line. This indicates the direction your cut should be made in. Make sure to select your bit size and cut location at this point. The cut location can be on the line, inside the line, or outside the line based on your application. There are other cut settings you can experiment with as well.
# Hit the green button to begin the cut. The cut is indicated by a blue line and the center if the bit is indicated by a white dot. The router can move the bit anywhere within the larger white circle so make sure to keep the cut line within the large circle and the router will take care of the rest. There is also an auto advance feature that will move the bit forward to the edge of the large circle.
# Run through your air cut until you get a feel for how the router responds and are confident the cut file is correct.
# Change from an air cut to a whatever cut depth you desire. A good rule of thumb is to never cut deeper than 1.5 times the diameter of the cutting tool.
# Make sure the spindle motor is plugged in and the correct bit is selected.
# Press the z touch button on the left of the screen to zero the router bit to the surface of the work piece.
# Set the spindle speed. The spindle speed can also be adjusted using the dial on the side of the spindle motor if needed.
# Hit the green button on the handle or press start on the screen to perform the cut.
# Reset the space when finished by vacuuming any dust, returning the router to its box, and putting away any scrap material.

==Safety==
* Remove any adjusting key or wrench before turning the power tool on. A wrench or a key left attached to a rotating part of the power tool may result in personal injury or damage the machine.
* Always use the dust collection system to keep the dust levels in the wood shop from reaching a dangerous level.
* Always hold onto the router while it is cutting. It is a CNC but it is not fastened to anything and could tip over if the bit catches on the material.
* Cut at an appropriate feed rate. If Origin’s correction range is unable to keep up with your feed rate, move Origin slower, reduce the depth of cut, change your router bit, and/or adjust the spindle speed.
* Adhere work piece elements that may come loose during cutting. When cutting items out of work piece materials, use double sided tape or alternative methods to hold elements down to your workbench and/or spoil board. This will prevent items from coming loose when cutting is complete.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31325 Foxtale Course]

==Troubleshooting==
* Cut is to big or small. The router will cut exactly on the cut line which often results in tight fitting parts. Use the offset option in the cut settings to increase or decrease the cut size by a minimal amount.
* The router keeps losing track of the Shaper Tape during a cut. Try rotating the router during the cut so the camera is always pointing towards the tape. If the problem persists add more tape.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

To keep this machine working properly, wipe off any dust that was collected on it while cutting before putting it away. There is also a chip tray on the front of the router that needs to be cleaned out as it fill up.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|1
|Wipe down the Router
|After each use
|Student
|-
|2
|Clean the chip tray
|When it is close to full
|Student
|}