makerhub - User contributions [en]

Hand Router

2019-04-13T00:22:52Z

Crhodes15:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Hand Router.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:HandRouterImage.jpeg
|Has imagedesc=Porter Cable Model 8902 2.25 HP Hand Router.
|Has description=Hand router for use in the Maker Hub when routing wood if you intend to use a template, route imprecisely, or are too old-school to use the handheld CNC router.
|Has certification=
|Has make=Porter Cable
|Has model=8902
|Has ace=Caleb Rhodes;crhodes15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
The hand router is the most dangerous tool in the wood shop, but it can also be one of the most versatile tools. Used in conjunction with the proper jigs and templates, the router can accomplish a wide variety of tasks with relative ease. Holes and channels of varying depths and nearly limitless shapes can be cut. The router can also use special bits to cut bevels and chamfers along the edges of a workpiece.

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==
[[File:HandRouterManual890_series.pdf|Instruction Manual]]

== Bit Types ==

[[Image:RouterBits.jpg|331x331px|left]]
Each bit is made for a different job. The wood shop has a wide assortment, although less common types may be unavailable. It should be noted that different bit sizes and profiles will operate better at different speeds. The amount of material the is being removed in each pass as well as the hardness of the wood should determine the speed the router is ran at. With reference to straight bits, if the bit is less than 1" in diameter, many recommend speeds near 24,000 rpm. For bits 1" - 2.5", 16,000 to 18,000 rpm, 2.5" to 3", 12,000 to 14,000 rpm, and for bits of more than 3", a common recommendation is 10,000 to 12,000 rpm.

Occasionally routing can leave burn marks on the workpiece. This usually means that the bit in the router has become dull, let a shop supervisor know if a bit seems dull. Sometimes the burning is due to build up of resin and other gunk (a technical term) on the back of the blade insulating the bit and allowing for heat to build up, make sure to keep bits clean. A final possible cause of burning wood while routing is taking passes that are too slow or setting the router bit speed too high.

== Training ==

Click on [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Vl8Jbw3cSk this] link for an introductory video on using the router. The enthusiastic video's most important parts happen in the first 8 minutes. Note that we do not have a router table, but one can easily be made. If the proper direction of cut is confusing, [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Qqimqo-ohU this] video explains it thoroughly, albeit in a very lengthy fashion. Our router accepts both 1/2" and 1/4" bit shanks, just swap out collets to change bit shank size.

Hand Router

2019-04-13T00:06:12Z

Crhodes15:

Belt Sander

2019-04-12T23:51:02Z

Crhodes15:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has group=Woodworking
|Has icon=File:image_pending.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Ridgid-belt-sanders.jpg
|Has imagedesc= Ridgid R2740
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Rigid
|Has model=R2740
|Has ace=Caleb Rhodes;crhodes15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

The belt sander is good for sanding large, flat workpieces. This is a tool that can greatly reduce the amount of time it takes to finish a project, but it can be difficult to master. Depending on the speed at which it is ran and the coarseness of the sanding belt used, this tool can remove material very quickly. This tool is best used for rough passes, and is not recommended for finely detailed or delicate work. 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==
[[:File:R2740_120_trilingual_operatorManual.pdf|Operator's Manual]]

== Training ==
For a good introductory overview, watch [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yp28YGvZHgQ this] video.

In order to use the belt sander, begin by inspecting the sanding belt that it currently has equipped or taking note of the lack thereof. A lever on the side of the equipment will lock or unlock the belt in place using tension. There is also a knob that allows the tracking of the sanding belt to be fine tuned. In order to keep the belt from catching or popping off, the knob should be used to finely adjust the roller angle to keep the sanding belt tracking true. Before sanding, ensure that the sanding belt is not clogged with sawdust, remelted glue, or other gunk. Exercise caution when choosing the sanding grit- it is easy to cause unsightly damage to the workpiece using a belt sander. As a final step in the preparation to sand, ensure that the belt sander is set to run at an optimal speed for the type of wood and type of work to be done on that wood. The speed can be adjusted using the dial located near the hand grip.

Sand the workpiece by working along the grain, and aim to overlap each pass with the the belt sander by about half of the previous passes width (1 1/2 in). The belt sander's own weight will keep it on the workpiece and removing material- it should not take much additional pressure at all to sand the workpiece. Keep the belt sander flat. Rocking back and forth of the belt sander will result in scratches, nicks, and valleys in the surface. Exercise special care when a side of the belt hangs off the work piece, not holding the belt sander flat will result in more material being taken off the edge of the piece than elsewhere. Despite the most careful handling, natural variations in wood can cause some of the wood to be sanded off faster than wood elsewhere. It is often advisable to draw lines of over the area that is to be sanded with a soft leaded pencil. By observing the gradual fading and disappearance of these lines, a flatter surface can be maintained.

When finished with the belt sander, never place it on the workpiece. This is best practice policy. If the belt sander is left to rest on the workpiece and is somehow turned on in an accident, it will mar the wood.

Belt Sander

2019-04-12T23:50:33Z

Crhodes15:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has group=Woodworking
|Has icon=File:image_pending.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Ridgid-belt-sanders.jpg
|Has imagedesc= Ridgid R2740
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Rigid
|Has model=R2740
|Has ace=Caleb Rhodes;crhodes15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

The ol' whip told me to belt sander is good for sanding large, flat workpieces. This is a tool that can greatly reduce the amount of time it takes to finish a project, but it can be difficult to master. Depending on the speed at which it is ran and the coarseness of the sanding belt used, this tool can remove material very quickly. This tool is best used for rough passes, and is not recommended for finely detailed or delicate work. 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==
[[:File:R2740_120_trilingual_operatorManual.pdf|Operator's Manual]]

== Training ==
For a good introductory overview, watch [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yp28YGvZHgQ this] video.

In order to use the belt sander, begin by inspecting the sanding belt that it currently has equipped or taking note of the lack thereof. A lever on the side of the equipment will lock or unlock the belt in place using tension. There is also a knob that allows the tracking of the sanding belt to be fine tuned. In order to keep the belt from catching or popping off, the knob should be used to finely adjust the roller angle to keep the sanding belt tracking true. Before sanding, ensure that the sanding belt is not clogged with sawdust, remelted glue, or other gunk. Exercise caution when choosing the sanding grit- it is easy to cause unsightly damage to the workpiece using a belt sander. As a final step in the preparation to sand, ensure that the belt sander is set to run at an optimal speed for the type of wood and type of work to be done on that wood. The speed can be adjusted using the dial located near the hand grip.

Sand the workpiece by working along the grain, and aim to overlap each pass with the the belt sander by about half of the previous passes width (1 1/2 in). The belt sander's own weight will keep it on the workpiece and removing material- it should not take much additional pressure at all to sand the workpiece. Keep the belt sander flat. Rocking back and forth of the belt sander will result in scratches, nicks, and valleys in the surface. Exercise special care when a side of the belt hangs off the work piece, not holding the belt sander flat will result in more material being taken off the edge of the piece than elsewhere. Despite the most careful handling, natural variations in wood can cause some of the wood to be sanded off faster than wood elsewhere. It is often advisable to draw lines of over the area that is to be sanded with a soft leaded pencil. By observing the gradual fading and disappearance of these lines, a flatter surface can be maintained.

When finished with the belt sander, never place it on the workpiece. This is best practice policy. If the belt sander is left to rest on the workpiece and is somehow turned on in an accident, it will mar the wood.

Belt Sander

2019-04-12T23:49:55Z

Crhodes15:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has group=Woodworking
|Has icon=File:image_pending.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Ridgid-belt-sanders.jpg
|Has imagedesc= Ridgid R2740
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Rigid
|Has model=R2740
|Has ace=Caleb Rhodes;crhodes15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

The ol' belt sander is good for sanding large, flat workpieces. This is a tool that can greatly reduce the amount of time it takes to finish a project, but it can be difficult to master. Depending on the speed at which it is ran and the coarseness of the sanding belt used, this tool can remove material very quickly. This tool is best used for rough passes, and is not recommended for finely detailed or delicate work. 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==
[[:File:R2740_120_trilingual_operatorManual.pdf|Operator's Manual]]

== Training ==
For a good introductory overview, watch [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yp28YGvZHgQ this] video.

In order to use the belt sander, begin by inspecting the sanding belt that it currently has equipped or taking note of the lack thereof. A lever on the side of the equipment will lock or unlock the belt in place using tension. There is also a knob that allows the tracking of the sanding belt to be fine tuned. In order to keep the belt from catching or popping off, the knob should be used to finely adjust the roller angle to keep the sanding belt tracking true. Before sanding, ensure that the sanding belt is not clogged with sawdust, remelted glue, or other gunk. Exercise caution when choosing the sanding grit- it is easy to cause unsightly damage to the workpiece using a belt sander. As a final step in the preparation to sand, ensure that the belt sander is set to run at an optimal speed for the type of wood and type of work to be done on that wood. The speed can be adjusted using the dial located near the hand grip.

Sand the workpiece by working along the grain, and aim to overlap each pass with the the belt sander by about half of the previous passes width (1 1/2 in). The belt sander's own weight will keep it on the workpiece and removing material- it should not take much additional pressure at all to sand the workpiece. Keep the belt sander flat. Rocking back and forth of the belt sander will result in scratches, nicks, and valleys in the surface. Exercise special care when a side of the belt hangs off the work piece, not holding the belt sander flat will result in more material being taken off the edge of the piece than elsewhere. Despite the most careful handling, natural variations in wood can cause some of the wood to be sanded off faster than wood elsewhere. It is often advisable to draw lines of over the area that is to be sanded with a soft leaded pencil. By observing the gradual fading and disappearance of these lines, a flatter surface can be maintained.

When finished with the belt sander, never place it on the workpiece. This is best practice policy. If the belt sander is left to rest on the workpiece and is somehow turned on in an accident, it will mar the wood.

PCB Printer

2019-04-12T23:48:28Z

Crhodes15:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:PCB_printer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Voltera Icon
|Has iconwname=File:PCB_printer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:voltera-vone.png
|Has imagedesc=The Voltera V-One PCB Printer
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has model=V-One
|Has group=Circuit Board Design
|Has make=Voltera
|Has ace=Jake Whipple; jwhipple15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
The Voltera V-One brings quick turn PCBs to your desktop. Import your gerber file into the Voltera software, press print, and the V-One will bring your board to life. Use the solder paste dispensing and reflow features to mount components onto your printed board, or mount components on a pre-fabricated board with ease. <ref>Description taken from [https://www.elektor.com/voltera-v-one Elektor].</ref>

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==

* [https://www.voltera.io/ Voltera Home Page]
* [https://www.voltera.io/docs/downloads/manuals/Voltera%20V-One%20Manual%20%5BEnglish%5D.pdf User Manual]
* [https://support.voltera.io/hc/en-us/sections/115001325748-User-Guides User Guides]

== Current Inks and Paste ==
The following conductive inks and pastes are stocked in the PCB Lab.

[[File:voltera_aqueous.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Conductive Ink:''' ''AqueousSnake''

- Use to lay conductive traces on substrates
 

[[File:voltera_furious.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste:''' ''FuriousAnt''

- Use only on boards that utilize Voltera's ink traces, such as the ink above.
 

[[File:voltera_armored.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste Sn63 Pb37:''' ''ArmoredArmadillo''

- Use only premade boards, such as ones from [https://www.sunstone.com/ Sunstone Circuits]
 

== Terminology ==
The Voltera utilizes many pieces of equipment. It is important to be able to distinguish them, especially when trying to explain troubleshooting issues. Here are the items you should familiarize yourself with:

<gallery>
File:voltera_substrates.jpg|Substrates
File:vone_probe.jpg|Probe
File:Dispenser_and_Sheath.jpg|Dispenser and Sheath
File:voltera_conductive_ink.png|Conductive Ink Cartridge
File:voltera_225_nozzle.jpg|Nozzle - 225 Micron
File:voltera_burnish.jpg|Burnishing Pads
</gallery>

(Pictures to add)
Sacrificial layer

== Training ==

=== Level 1 ===
[[File:voltera_blinky_500.jpg|300x300px|thumb|right|Training board - The Blinky 500]] Successful completion of level 1 training will grant access to:
* Using the Voltera to create single-sided boards with NO vias or holes.

# ''Ready the Ink''
## Reference the [[#Current Inks and Paste|Current Inks and Paste]] for information on the what the PCB lab is currently stocked with.
## Grab the correct conductive ink from the fridge. It is labeled with a '''green''' sticker.
## Set the conductive ink on the table, allowing to begin to warm to room temperature. 
# ''Software Setup''
## Download the files for this project [[Media:pcb_printer_level_1.zip|here]].
## Power on the Voltera.
## Open the Voltera Windows application.
## Select "Print" and then "Simple."
## Add the proper conductive ink. This is the same conductive ink you acquired in step 1.3.
## Load the ink file from the project files. This is the Top Layer Gerber file.
## Click "Next." 
# ''Cleaning the Sensors''
## Take a cue tip and dip it into the isopropyl alcohol. The cue tip should be moist, but NOT soaked. Dab the cue tip on a paper towel to dry it slightly.
## Clean the calibration switches by rubbing them with the cue tip. [[File:Voltera cleaning.jpg|border|none|300x300px|Cleaning the calibration switches]] 
## Click "Next." 
# ''Clamping the Substrate''
## Acquire a 1.5" by 2" blank board. They are located in the one of the drawers.
## Slide the board underneath the clamps on the Voltera, push the clamps towards each other, and finger-tighten the thumb screws. [[File:Voltera clamping.jpg|border|none|300x300px]] 
## Click "Next." 
# ''Mounting the Probe''
## Pull the probe from one of the drawers. [[File:Voltera drawer.jpg|border|none|300x300px]] 
## Remove the cap and place it near the Voltera.
## Mount the probe onto the magnetic gantry. It should snap into place and the contacts should align. [[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]] 
## Click "Next." 
# ''Positioning and Probing''
## Click "Outline." This will show you where the Voltera thinks the board is. It will move the probe around the printer surface.
## Repeat step one until the outline is centered with the board. Click and drag the circuit in the Voltera application to move the outline.
## '''You MUST ensure the outline does not collide with the clamps AND does not exceed the dimensions of the board!''' Do NOT proceed until this is checked!
## Click "Next."
## Click "Probe" and wait for the Voltera to finish its measurements. [[File:Voltera probing.jpg|border|none|300x300px]] 
## Click "Next."
## Remove the probe, replace the cap, place the probe back in the drawer, and click "Next." 
# ''Priming the Conductor''
## Ensure 15 minutes have passed before beginning the next step. The dispenser should not be cold to the touch.
## '''Read carefully.''' The Voltera application explains this step well. Follow the on-screen instructions before moving on to the next step. Some tips/tricks/warnings: - '''Nozzles are fragile!''' You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Treat this process with care! - Hold the dispenser over a paper towel to prevent ink from getting everywhere. - If you need to wipe the nozzle, do so '''gently''' and '''use a cotton swab found in the drawers.''' - Ink should not be flowing quickly out of the dispenser when you finish priming, but '''a very small amount''' of flow is OK. [[File:Voltera priming.jpg|border|none|300x300px]] 
## Mount the dispenser. [[File:Voltera mount_conductive.jpg|border|none|300x300px]] 
# ''Calibration''
## Click "Advanced." Start with the '''Z at 0.10 mm''' and the '''E at 0 um'''. Adjust the Voltera to these values.
## Click "Calibrate."
## The Voltera will lay down a test print. Pay close attention to the amount and consistency of the ink. [[File:Voltera calibrate.jpg|border|none|300x300px]] 
## The example below has slightly too much ink. Notice how a portion of the horizontal lines touch and some parts of the ink glob up. [[File:Voltera calibrate_bad.jpg|border|none|300x300px]] 
## In this case, to make an adjustment, the ink height was set to a '''Z of 0.09 mm''' and the flow was set to an '''E of -10 um.'''
## '''You may need to do the same or make different adjustments. Whatever you do, do NOT run the nozzle into the board! The nozzle will break!'''
## If an adjustment was made, '''wipe the board clean with a paper towel (shown below)''' and repeat step 9. [[File:Voltera calibrate_wipe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]] 
## The example below is a more acceptable test print. Strive for this consistency. If your board looks right, proceed. [[File:Voltera calibrate_better.jpg|border|none|300x300px]] 
## Click "Next."
## Wipe the board clean a final time.
## Click "Next." 
# ''Top Layer Print''
## The Voltera will print what is selected in green. Below is an example of a portion of the board selected. Ensure the portion you want to print is selected (in this case, select everything.) Remember that blue lines will not be printed. [[File:voltera_selection.PNG|300x300px|none]] 
## Click "Start." Let the Voltera finish its process. If a portion of the print fails or is incorrect, you can stop mid-print, or wait until it is finished and redo that selection. Also shown below is an example of a portion of ink that globbed up. The portion was wiped and can be reprinted. [[File:voltera_printing.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_blob.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_redo.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
## Remove the conductor, replace the cap, '''and return the conductive ink to the fridge!'''
## When you reach the "Flip Board," you are done. Quit the Voltera application.
## Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that the traces are still wet. 
# ''Baking the Traces''
## Switch over to the Reflow Oven. [[File:bake_go_2.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
## Power the Reflow Oven on.
## Select "V1 INK." [[File:bake_ink_selection.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
## The oven will warm up. When its ready, press "Enter" to open the tray.
## '''DANGER: The rails could be HOT! Take caution.''' Place the board securely on the rails. [[File:bake_place.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
## Press "Enter" to close the tray. [[File:bake_go.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
## The preheat will take 2 minutes. The baking process takes about 30 min. [[File:bake_inside.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
## The drawer will automatically open to initiate the cool down phase. '''DO NOT remove the board until the oven says all the stages are complete. DANGER: The rails are HOT!'''
## When cool down is complete, remove the board from the oven. 
#''Preparing for Solder Paste''
##Take a burnishing pad from one of the drawers.
##Rub the substrate with the pad until the traces have a shine to them, rather than a dull appearance.
##Replace the burnishing pad back into the drawer 
#''Aligning the Paste''
##At this time, retrieve the solder paste from the fridge and set it out to warm. The correct paste is labeled with a '''orange''' sticker.
##Take the board back to the Voltera.
##Clamp the board into place.
##Open the Voltera application and choose "Solder."
##Choose the proper paste. In this case you want the orange-labeled paste.
##Clean the calibration switches.
##Mount the probe. Click "Next."
##Click 'Move to feature." This will move the probe to a pre-determined feature. It will not be aligned properly.
##First, use the arrow keys to roughly align the feature with the probe.
##Next, click "Lower," and use the arrow keys to fine-tune the alignment. Your precision in these steps is key to getting solder paste in the correct places.
##Click "Measure" when the alignment is correct. The board will be probed and the head will move to a second feature.
##Repeat steps 9 and 10.
##Click "Measure." The alignment is now finished. Click "Next."
##You can confirm the alignment by clicking various features and seeing if the head moves to the right position. If something is off, you can go back and realign if necessary.
##Click "Next."
##Click "Probe." This will measure the height of the board.
##Remove the probe and replace it in the drawer. 
#''Priming the Paste''
##'''Explain the priming process'''
##Mount it. Click "Next."
##Click "Dispense." The paste will dispense onto all of the selected pads.
##Strive for good coverage of paste. See the picture below.
##Click "Next."
##Remove the dispenser. Twist the knob clockwise to back off the paste. '''Put it back in the fridge.''' Click '"Next."
##Quit the Voltera app.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that you are handling a board with wet paste. 
#''Pick and Place Components''
##Clamp the board onto the Pick and Place.
##Power on the machine. The power switch is on the back.
##The arrow keys control the menu. These will be used to select things.
##Select "Place." Select "Manual."
##To move the turntable, select "Turntable," and use the arrow keys to move it clockwise or counterclockwise.
##The necessary components should be stocked in the slots in the turntable. If components are missing, contact any of the PCB lab staff.
##Turn on the Marshall monitor. This will help with viewing components.
##The Pick and Place is a like a vacuum machine. Its operation is straightforward.
###Move the gantry to the desired component. Press down (but not all the way) to stick the nozzle to the component.
###Move the gantry back to board. Move the component to its correct position so it appears to be close the pads. Lower the component about half a centimeter above the board.
###Turn the brake on with the arrow keys.
###Use the fine adjustment knobs at the bottom of the machine along with the monitor to perfectly align the component. Remember, you can swivel the camera in order to look down two different axes.
###When aligned, select "Place." The machine will automatically place the part to the position you set it to.
###Move the turntable to retrieve your next part.
###Repeat steps 1 through 6 until your board is complete.
##Remove your board from the clamps. '''Caution: Handle your board with care. Your components are not soldered and can easily dislodge from the paste!'''
##Turn off the Pick and Place machine. 
#''Reflow''.
##Power on the oven.
##Select "V1 Paste." The warm-up period is longer this time.
##Place your board in the oven. '''DANGER: THE RAILS ARE HOT.'''
##Select "Enter."
##Reflow takes about three minutes. When it's done, the drawer will automatically open to initiate the cool down phase. '''DANGER: The rails are HOT! DO NOT remove the board until the oven says all the stages are complete.''' The solder paste is actually solidifying.
##When the cool down process is done, remove the board. '''The rails are probably still hot!''' Select "Enter" to close the oven drawer.
##Turn off the oven. 
#''Testing!''
##Take the board over to the power supply.
##Ensure to use '''the fixed''' '''5V''' connection on the power supply. Attach the positive and negative leads. Power on the PSU and press the button. The LED should illuminate! 
Congrats! You're done. Got it all? Good. Why don't you go ahead and take the quiz.
 

== Dispensing Tips ==

=== The Perfect Print ===
Two main factors affect the quality of your print.

==== Flow rate ====

==== Print height ====

=== Priming Conductors ===
Ideally, ''you'' should never have to prime the conductors. After a conductor has been primed correctly and used in the Voltera, it "closes" the dispenser. When done, you should be able to pull it off the mount and put the --- back in the fridge.

However, this is not always the case. If a student
 

== Installing a New Cartridge ==

# Remove the nozzle CAREFULLY
# Dissamble sheath by twisting green part clockwise
# Remove dispenser
# clean dispenser
# press downwards on the sheath to loose the cartridge
# remove the cartridge
# proceed to chuck the cartridge in the nearest garbage can
# wind the dispenser clockwise until it cant clockwise anymore
# acquire new cartridge
# remove top and bottom green caps SAVE THEM
# insert the cartidge with the label facing the back, in other words, the label should not be viewable through the window on the sheath
# insert the dispenser and lock it in by twisting the green part counter clockwise
# carefully REPLACE NOZZLE, use fingers first and then pliers!44

= Dev TODO =
* Change the gerber file to remove the solder paste on the lead pads 

= References =
<references />

Belt Sander

2019-04-04T01:07:08Z

Crhodes15:

Belt Sander

2019-04-03T04:00:03Z

Crhodes15: /* Training */

Belt Sander

2019-04-03T03:58:09Z

Crhodes15: /* Documentation */

Belt Sander

2019-04-03T03:57:48Z

Crhodes15:

File:R2740 120 trilingual operatorManual.pdf

2019-04-03T03:56:56Z

Crhodes15: Belt sander operator's manual.

== Summary ==
Belt sander operator's manual.

Belt Sander

2019-04-03T03:54:35Z

Crhodes15:

Belt Sander

2019-04-03T03:49:02Z

Crhodes15:

Belt Sander

2019-04-03T03:21:33Z

Crhodes15:

Jewelry Station

2019-03-22T01:10:45Z

Crhodes15: /* Training */

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=The Vault
|Is used in domain=Metal
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:image pending.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:115835.jpg
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Jason's Works
|Has model=Master Deluxe Kit
|Has ace=John Joo;jjoo15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==

== Training ==

There are a wide variety of videos on ring making. The basic process is composed of 3 steps.

1. Punching a hole in your coin.
2. Folding the coin.
3. Sizing the ring.

At various points in the process the metal should be annealed to prevent the metal from becoming too brittle due to cold working. When the coin should be annealed is somewhat subject and no exact rule exists. The hardness of the coin will depend on the type and the year it was minted. For example, silver half dollars minted up to 1964 are made with more silver and less copper than silver half dollars minted afterwards.

Jewelry Station

2019-03-22T01:10:25Z

Crhodes15:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=The Vault
|Is used in domain=Metal
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:image pending.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:115835.jpg
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Jason's Works
|Has model=Master Deluxe Kit
|Has ace=John Joo;jjoo15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==

== Training ==

There are a wide variety of videos on ring making. The basic process is composed of 3 steps.

1. Punching a hole in your coin.
2. Fold the coin.
3. Sizing the ring.

At various points in the process the metal should be annealed to prevent the metal from becoming too brittle due to cold working. When the coin should be annealed is somewhat subject and no exact rule exists. The hardness of the coin will depend on the type and the year it was minted. For example, silver half dollars minted up to 1964 are made with more silver and less copper than silver half dollars minted afterwards.

Scroll Saw

2019-03-14T00:52:52Z

Crhodes15:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has icon=File:Scroll Saw.png
|Has icondesc=(???)
|Has iconwname=(???)
|Has image=(???)
|Has imagedesc=(???)
|Has description=(???)
|Has certification=(???)
|Has make=Excalibur
|Has model=EX-21
|Has ace=Caleb Rhodes;crhodes15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]

[[File:Excalibur EX21 Scroll Saw Image.jpg|thumb|Excalibur EX-21 Scroll Saw]]
The Excalibur EX-21 Scroll Saw is a small variable speed electric saw. It operates similarly to a band saw, but uses a reciprocating blade instead of a loop. This reciprocation means the blade does not cut continuously and only on the down stroke. The thinness of the blade allows it to be turned in the work piece at an almost 90 degree angle, which allows the blade to track along fine detail and sharp lines. The blade can also be removed on either the top or bottom of the reciprocating arm which allows the blade to be inserted inside of a work piece without needing an entry cut, the only thing necessary is a small hole drilled through the material. There is a blade guard and a dust blower nozzle that both need to be adjust before a piece can be cut into the material.

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
== Documentation ==
* [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Excalibur-120-Volt-21-in-Tilting-Head-Scroll-Saw-with-Stand-and-Foot-Switch-EX-21K/205414436 Product Distribution Page]
* [https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/5d/5da1c223-3df7-4236-8b34-34eb1641764a.pdf Manual]

== Training ==
* [https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/5d/5da1c223-3df7-4236-8b34-34eb1641764a.pdf Manual]

== Tips ==
When cutting a pattern, overlay the pattern on the workpiece, then work the piece smoothly through the blade path. By maintaining a constant forward movement and turning the piece as to keep the pattern line directly in front of the blade teeth, a smooth and accurate pattern can be cut. If the workpiece ever stops moving forward through the blade, the cut pattern will not be perfectly smooth.

The scroll saw can cut extremely tight curves, by backing up the blade a hair the scroll saw can even cut what is almost a re-entrant corner. This is only advisable in soft woods, and can leave burn marks on the wood.

Scroll Saw

2019-03-14T00:47:28Z

Crhodes15:

Scroll Saw

2019-03-14T00:14:42Z

Crhodes15:

Hand Router

2019-03-14T00:13:53Z

Crhodes15:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Hand Router.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:HandRouterImage.jpeg
|Has imagedesc=Porter Cable Model 8902 2.25 HP Hand Router.
|Has description=Hand router for use in the Maker Hub when routing wood if you intend to use a template, route imprecisely, or are too old-school to use the handheld CNC router.
|Has certification=True
|Has make=Porter Cable
|Has model=8902
|Has ace=Caleb Rhodes;crhodes15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
The hand router is the most dangerous tool in the wood shop, but it can also be one of the most versatile tools. Used in conjunction with the proper jigs and templates, the router can accomplish a wide variety of tasks with relative ease. Holes and channels of varying depths and nearly limitless shapes can be cut. The router can also use special bits to cut bevels and chamfers along the edges of a workpiece.

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==
[[:File:HandRouterManual890_series.pdf|Instruction Manual]]

== Bit Types ==

[[Image:RouterBits.jpg|331x331px|left]]
Each bit is made for a different job. The wood shop has a wide assortment, although less common types may be unavailable. It should be noted that different bit sizes and profiles will operate better at different speeds. The amount of material the is being removed in each pass as well as the hardness of the wood should determine the speed the router is ran at. With reference to straight bits, if the bit is less than 1" in diameter, many recommend speeds near 24,000 rpm. For bits 1" - 2.5", 16,000 to 18,000 rpm, 2.5" to 3", 12,000 to 14,000 rpm, and for bits of more than 3", a common recommendation is 10,000 to 12,000 rpm.

Occasionally routing can leave burn marks on the workpiece. This usually means that the bit in the router has become dull, let a shop supervisor know if a bit seems dull. Sometimes the burning is due to build up of resin and other gunk (a technical term) on the back of the blade insulating the blade and allowing for heat to build up, make sure to keep bits clean. A final possible cause of burning wood while routing is taking passes that are too slow or setting the router bit speed too high.

== Training ==

Click on [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Vl8Jbw3cSk this] link for an introductory video on using the router. The enthusiastic video's most important parts happen in the first 8 minutes. Note that we do not have a router table, but one can easily be made. If the proper direction of cut is confusing, [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Qqimqo-ohU this] video explains it thoroughly, albeit in a very lengthy fashion. Our router accepts both 1/2" and 1/4" bits, just swap out collets to change bit shank size.

Hand Router

2019-03-13T01:02:01Z

Crhodes15: /* Bit Types */

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Hand Router.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:HandRouterImage.jpeg
|Has imagedesc=Porter Cable Model 8902 2.25 HP Hand Router.
|Has description=Hand router for use in the Maker Hub when routing wood if you intend to use a template, route imprecisely, or are too old-school to use the handheld CNC router.
|Has certification=
|Has make=Porter Cable
|Has model=8902
|Has ace=Caleb Rhodes;crhodes15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]The hand router is the most dangerous tool in the wood shop, but it can also be one of the most versatile tools. Used in conjunction with the proper jigs and templates, the router can accomplish a wide variety of tasks with relative ease. Holes and channels of varying depths and nearly limitless shapes can be cut. The router can also use special bits to cut bevels and chamfers along the edges of a workpiece.[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==
[[:File:HandRouterManual890_series.pdf|Instruction Manual]]

== Bit Types ==

[[Image:RouterBits.jpg|331x331px|left]]
Each bit is made for a different job. The wood shop has a wide assortment, although less common types may be unavailable. It should be noted that different bit sizes and profiles will operate better at different speeds. The amount of material the is being removed in each pass as well as the hardness of the wood should determine the speed the router is ran at. With reference to straight bits, if the bit is less than 1" in diameter, many recommend speeds near 24,000 rpm. For bits 1" - 2.5", 16,000 to 18,000 rpm, 2.5" to 3", 12,000 to 14,000 rpm, and for bits of more than 3", a common recommendation is 10,000 to 12,000 rpm.

Occasionally routing can leave burn marks on the workpiece. This usually means that the bit in the router has become dull, let a shop supervisor know if a bit seems dull. Sometimes the burning is due to build up of resin and other gunk (a technical term) on the back of the blade insulating the blade and allowing for heat to build up, make sure to keep bits clean. A final possible cause of burning wood while routing is taking passes that are too slow or setting the router bit speed too high.

== Training ==

Click on [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Vl8Jbw3cSk this] link for an introductory video on using the router. The enthusiastic video's most important parts happen in the first 8 minutes. Note that we do not have a router table, but one can easily be made. If the proper direction of cut is confusing, [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Qqimqo-ohU this] video explains it thoroughly, albeit in a very lengthy fashion. Our router accepts both 1/2" and 1/4" bits, just swap out collets to change bit shank size.

Hand Router

2019-03-13T00:22:07Z

Crhodes15:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Hand Router.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:HandRouterImage.jpeg
|Has imagedesc=Porter Cable Model 8902 2.25 HP Hand Router.
|Has description=Hand router for use in the Maker Hub when routing wood if you intend to use a template, route imprecisely, or are too old-school to use the handheld CNC router.
|Has certification=
|Has make=Porter Cable
|Has model=8902
|Has ace=Caleb Rhodes;crhodes15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]The hand router is the most dangerous tool in the wood shop, but it can also be one of the most versatile tools. Used in conjunction with the proper jigs and templates, the router can accomplish a wide variety of tasks with relative ease. Holes and channels of varying depths and nearly limitless shapes can be cut. The router can also use special bits to cut bevels and chamfers along the edges of a workpiece.[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==
[[:File:HandRouterManual890_series.pdf|Instruction Manual]]

== Bit Types ==

[[Image:RouterBits.jpg|400x400px|left]]
Each bit is made for a different job. The wood shop has a wide assortment, although less common types may be unavailable. It should be noted that different bit sizes and profiles will operate better at different speeds. The amount of material the is being removed in each pass as well as the hardness of the wood should determine the speed the router is ran at.

== Training ==

Click on [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Vl8Jbw3cSk this] link for an introductory video on using the router. The enthusiastic video's most important parts happen in the first 8 minutes. Note that we do not have a router table, but one can easily be made. If the proper direction of cut is confusing, [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Qqimqo-ohU this] video explains it thoroughly, albeit in a very lengthy fashion. Our router accepts both 1/2" and 1/4" bits, just swap out collets to change bit shank size.

Hand Router

2019-03-13T00:13:24Z

Crhodes15:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Hand Router.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:HandRouterImage.jpeg
|Has imagedesc=Porter Cable Model 8902 2.25 HP Hand Router.
|Has description=Hand router for use in the Maker Hub when routing wood if you intend to use a template, route imprecisely, or are too old-school to use the handheld CNC router.
|Has certification=
|Has make=Porter Cable
|Has model=8902
|Has ace=Caleb Rhodes;crhodes15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]The hand router is the most dangerous tool in the wood shop, but it can also be one of the most versatile tools. Used in conjunction with the proper jigs and templates, the router can accomplish a wide variety of tasks with relative ease. Holes and channels of varying depths and nearly limitless shapes can be cut. The router can also use special bits to cut bevels and chamfers along the edges of a workpiece.[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==
[[:File:HandRouterManual890_series.pdf|Instruction Manual]]

== Bit Types ==

[[Image:RouterBits.jpg|400x400px|right]]
Each bit is made for a different job. The wood shop has a wide assortment, although less common types may be unavailable. It should be noted that different bit sizes and profiles will operate better at different speeds. The amount of material the is being removed in each pass as well as the hardness of the wood should determine the speed the router is ran at.

== Training ==

Click on [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Vl8Jbw3cSk this] link for an introductory video on using the router. The enthusiastic video's most important parts happen in the first 8 minutes. Note that we do not have a router table, but one can easily be made. If the proper direction of cut is confusing, [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Qqimqo-ohU this] video explains it thoroughly, albeit in a very lengthy fashion. Our router accepts both 1/2" and 1/4" bits, just swap out collets to change bit shank size.

Hand Router

2019-03-13T00:08:31Z

Crhodes15: /* Bit Types */

Hand Router

2019-03-13T00:07:06Z

Crhodes15:

File:RouterBits.jpg

2019-03-13T00:03:12Z

Crhodes15: Various router bit types.

== Summary ==
Various router bit types.

Hand Router

2019-03-13T00:01:45Z

Crhodes15:

Hand Router

2019-03-12T23:36:09Z

Crhodes15:

Hand Router

2019-03-12T23:31:59Z

Crhodes15:

Hand Router

2019-03-12T22:57:36Z

Crhodes15:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:image_pending.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:HandRouterImage.jpeg
|Has imagedesc=Porter Cable Model 8902 2.25 HP Hand Router.
|Has description=Hand router for use in the Maker Hub when routing wood if you intend to use a template, route imprecisely, or are too old-school to use the handheld CNC router.
|Has certification=
|Has make=Porter Cable
|Has model=8902
|Has ace=Caleb Rhodes;crhodes15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]The hand router is the most dangerous tool in the wood shop, but it can also be one of the most versatile tools. Used in conjunction with the proper jigs and templates, the router can accomplish a wide variety of tasks with relative ease. Holes and channels of varying depths and nearly limitless shapes can be cut. The router can also use special bits to cut bevels and chamfers along the edges of a workpiece.[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==
[[:File:HandRouterManual890_series.pdf|Instruction Manual]]

== What the Router Does ==

== Training ==

Hand Router

2019-03-12T22:55:22Z

Crhodes15:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:image_pending.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:HandRouterImage.jpeg
|Has imagedesc=Porter Cable Model 8902 2.25 HP Hand Router.
|Has description=Hand router for use in the Maker Hub when routing wood if you intend to use a template, route imprecisely, or are too old-school to use the handheld CNC router.
|Has certification=
|Has make=Porter Cable
|Has model=8902
|Has ace=Caleb Rhodes;crhodes15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]The hand router is the most dangerous tool in the wood shop, but it can also be one of the most versatile tools. Used in conjunction with the proper jigs and templates, the router can accomplish a wide variety of tasks with relative ease. Holes and channels of varying depths and nearly limitless shapes can be cut. The router can also use special bits to cut bevels and chamfers along the edges of a workpiece.[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==
[[HandRouterManual890_series.pdf
]]

== What the Router Does ==

== Training ==

Hand Router

2019-03-12T22:54:29Z

Crhodes15:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:image_pending.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:HandRouterImage.jpeg
|Has imagedesc=Porter Cable Model 8902 2.25 HP Hand Router.
|Has description=Hand router for use in the Maker Hub when routing wood if you intend to use a template, route imprecisely, or are too old-school to use the handheld CNC router.
|Has certification=
|Has make=Porter Cable
|Has model=8902
|Has ace=Caleb Rhodes;crhodes15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]The hand router is the most dangerous tool in the wood shop, but it can also be one of the most versatile tools. Used in conjunction with the proper jigs and templates, the router can accomplish a wide variety of tasks with relative ease. Holes and channels of varying depths and nearly limitless shapes can be cut. The router can also use special bits to cut bevels and chamfers along the edges of a workpiece.[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==
{{HandRouterManual890_series.pdf
}}

== What the Router Does ==

== Training ==

Hand Router

2019-03-12T22:51:19Z

Crhodes15:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:image_pending.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:HandRouterImage.jpeg
|Has imagedesc=Porter Cable Model 8902 2.25 HP Hand Router.
|Has description=Hand router for use in the Maker Hub when routing wood if you intend to use a template, route imprecisely, or are too old-school to use the handheld CNC router.
|Has certification=
|Has make=Porter Cable
|Has model=8902
|Has ace=Caleb Rhodes;crhodes15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]The hand router is the most dangerous tool in the wood shop, but it can also be one of the most versatile tools. Used in conjunction with the proper jigs and templates, the router can accomplish a wide variety of tasks with relative ease. Holes and channels of varying depths and nearly limitless shapes can be cut. The router can also use special bits to cut bevels and chamfers along the edges of a workpiece.[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==
{{#ask:
[[Is soldering iron equipment::True]]
|format=ul
}}

== What the Router Does ==

== Training ==

File:HandRouterManual890 series.pdf

2019-03-12T22:43:41Z

Crhodes15: Hand Router Owners Manual (Porter Cable 8902 2.25 HP Router).

== Summary ==
Hand Router Owners Manual (Porter Cable 8902 2.25 HP Router).

Hand Router

2019-03-12T22:40:20Z

Crhodes15:

Hand Router

2019-03-12T22:39:34Z

Crhodes15:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:image_pending.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:HandRouterImage.jpeg
|Has imagedesc=True
|Has description=Hand router for use in the Maker Hub when routing wood if you intend to use a template, route imprecisely, or are too old-school to use the handheld CNC router.
|Has certification=
|Has make=Porter Cable
|Has model=8902
|Has ace=Caleb Rhodes;crhodes15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]The hand router is the most dangerous tool in the wood shop, but it can also be one of the most versatile tools. Used in conjunction with the proper jigs and templates, the router can accomplish a wide variety of tasks with relative ease. Holes and channels of varying depths and nearly limitless shapes can be cut. The router can also use special bits to cut bevels and chamfers along the edges of a workpiece.[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==

== What the Router Does ==

== Training ==

Hand Router

2019-03-12T22:36:20Z

Crhodes15:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:image_pending.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:HandRouterImage.jpeg
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=Hand router for use in the Maker Hub when routing wood if you intend to use a template, route imprecisely, or are too old-school to use the handheld CNC router.
|Has certification=
|Has make=Porter Cable
|Has model=8902
|Has ace=Caleb Rhodes;crhodes15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]The hand router is the most dangerous tool in the wood shop, but it can also be one of the most versatile tools. Used in conjunction with the proper jigs and templates, the router can accomplish a wide variety of tasks with relative ease. Holes and channels of varying depths and nearly limitless shapes can be cut. The router can also use special bits to cut bevels and chamfers along the edges of a workpiece.[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==

== Training ==

Hand Router

2019-03-12T22:34:47Z

Crhodes15:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:image_pending.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:HandRouterImage.jpeg
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=Hand router for use in the Maker Hub when routing wood if you intend to use a template, route imprecisely, or are too old-school to use the handheld CNC router.
|Has certification=
|Has make=Porter Cable
|Has model=8902
|Has ace=Caleb Rhodes;crhodes15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]The hand router is the most dangerous tool in the wood shop, it can also be one of the more versatile tools. Used in conjunction with the proper jigs and templates, the router can accomplish a variety of tasks. Holes and channels of varying depths and nearly limitless shapes can be cut. The router can also use special bits to cut bevels and chamfers along the edges of workpieces.[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==

== Training ==

Hand Router

2019-03-12T22:24:50Z

Crhodes15:

File:HandRouterImage.jpeg

2019-03-12T22:21:01Z

Crhodes15: Porter Cable Model 8902 2.25 HP Hand Router.

== Summary ==
Porter Cable Model 8902 2.25 HP Hand Router.