https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=Edejong22 2026-04-15T08:32:03Z User contributions MediaWiki 1.35.7 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Vinyl_Cutter&diff=11861 2025-08-20T16:37:50Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Training */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=The Hub<br /> |Is used in domain=Vinyl<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has model=GR-640<br /> |Has make=Roland<br /> |Has serial number=KDF0752<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:Vinyl_cutter_icon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=Vinyl Cutter Icon<br /> |Has iconwname=<br /> |Has image=File:vinyl_cutter.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc= The Roland GR-640 Vinyl Cutter<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1329<br /> |Has ace=Summer Martindale;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}} <br /> <br /> Ace: '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> == Description ==<br /> Vinyl cutting is the process of cutting graphics out of vinyl to make adhesive vinyl applications. The maker hub has a Roland GR-640 cutter. It cuts larger format vinyl than the BN-20 [[Vinyl Printer]], but does not have printing capability. It is used to make stickers/cutouts for applications such as signage, vehicle graphics, apparel, etc. The vinyl cutter is used primarily for cutting vinyl sheeting, but can cut other materials if needed for a specific project, see [https://www.rolanddga.com/products/vinyl-cutters/camm-1-gr-large-format-cutters/applications this application page]<br /> <br /> Example process video:<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7uNKdjR1JY}}<br /> <br /> == Documentation ==<br /> <br /> The user manual has instruction on cutting, maintenance, and calibration. After opening the user manual, select the &quot;Basic Edition&quot; from the Table of Contents in the left column to view this information.<br /> <br /> [[Media:GR-640 540 420 User Manual english.pdf|Vinyl Cutter User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> * Weeding: the process of removing unwanted material after the vinyl has been cut<br /> * Graphic: the chosen image/picture to be formatted and cut<br /> * Adobe Illustrator 2025 (Ai): used to prep the graphic for cutting<br /> * Roland Cut Studio (RCS): an Ai extension used to finalize the format of the graphic and send it to the vinyl cutter for cutting<br /> * Vector images: an image constructed with mathematical formulas which makes it easy to resize and perform other edits<br /> * Raster images: an image constructed with pixels which means they cannot be resized without a change in resolution<br /> <br /> == Training ==<br /> <br /> ==== Operation ====<br /> Sticker making is the most frequent use of the vinyl cutter but it can be used for other applications as well depending on the type of material being cut. For cutting materials, vinyl rolls can be be found in the cabinet below the computer and loaded onto the material rack at the back of the machine. However, for most projects a small piece will be sufficient and it is recommended that you use the scrap pieces in the bin to the right of the computer as a result. As for other materials, heat transfer vinyl can be used (found in the cabinet to the right of the vinyl printer); further it is possible to cut other vinyl based materials if you find they are compatible with the machine and have them cleared by Justin. Uploaded graphics can be in any format, but .pdf is preferred. This is due to the vector format of .pdf files, other formats need to be converted to vector form in Adobe illustrator 2025. The vinyl cutter needs to be loaded and setup before a graphic can be sent to it and cut out. Once cutting has been completed, it also needs to be reset and turned off.<br /> <br /> ==== Demonstration ====<br /> The student will draw a 2 in. x 2 in. graphic and upload into Ai. They will then need to properly format it and use the RCS extension in Ai. Using RCS, they will finalize and cut the graphic. To finish they will weed the sticker and apply it to transfer paper. They can then choose to save the sticker for later or immediately apply it to a medium of their choice. The student is also responsible for setting up the vinyl cutter before it is used and resetting it after they are done.<br /> <br /> ==== General Procedure ====<br /> Loading Material:<br /> # Turn on power.<br /> # Feed material through back of machine; the vacuum should engage.<br /> # Align material with the rollers so it is covered at both corners and within the center if needed.<br /> ## Rollers can only be placed within the shiny silver strips located along the front of the cutter, above the header.<br /> ## Rollers are adjusted by sliding them using your fingers.<br /> # If possible, check to ensure the material lines up evenly with both sets of measurement lines on the lower front of the cutter.<br /> # If possible, leave an inch or two of excess material hanging down below the cutting head.<br /> # Use the arrow pad to select the type of media: roll, piece, etc.<br /> # Press [ENTER] to secure the material.<br /> # Move the cutting head to the left of the stock via the directional keys, then hold [ORIGIN] to set the starting point of the cut.<br /> Prepping a Graphic:<br /> <br /> In Adobe Illustrator:<br /> [[File:Ai 2024.jpg|1200px|none|Ai 2024 Home Page]]<br /> *Use Adobe illustrator '''2025''' (Ai).<br /> *Best practice is to start with a new work-space, then size the dimensions to the piece of material you are using.<br /> [[File:Blank doc.jpg|1200px|none]]<br /> *Open the Roland Cut Studio extension: Window &gt; Extensions &gt; Roland CutStudio<br /> [[File:Windows-Extensions-Roland CutStudios.jpg|1200px|none]]<br /> *For model setup, select the GR-640.<br /> Setting up the graphic in Ai:<br /> # File is .pdf (the ideal format):<br /> ## Use [File] &gt; [Open].<br /> ## Hit [Window] &gt; [Layers], this can also be dragged over to the toolbar on the right side of the screen.<br /> ### Use this to remove all unnecessary cut paths by selecting only the individual cut line and clicking the trashcan icon in the lower right of the screen.<br /> ### You’ll know you’ve removed an essential path if that part of the image disappears.<br /> ### Usually the goal of this step is to remove any large borders around the graphic.<br /> ## Image size can be edited using the size sliders located on the tool bar near the top of the screen, closer to the right.<br /> # File is .jpg/png (any non-vector format):<br /> ## Use [File] &gt; [Place].<br /> ## Click in the top left corner, then drag with the cursor until the graphic is the desired size.<br /> ## Use [Object] &gt; [Flatten Transparency] to convert the graphic to vector form, use the high resolution preset.<br /> ## Click [Image Trace] on the tool bar near the top middle of the screen, then click [Expand], which enables cut lines to be edited.<br /> ### Once this step is done, the graphic’s cut lines should show up in the Roland Cut Studio preview area, and the graphic should turn black.<br /> ## Hit [Window] &gt; [Layers], this can also be dragged over to the toolbar on the right side of the screen.<br /> ### Use this to remove all unnecessary cut paths by selecting only the individual cut line and clicking the trashcan icon in the lower right of the screen.<br /> ### You’ll know you’ve removed an essential path if that part of the image disappears.<br /> ### Usually the goal of this step is to remove any large borders around the graphic.<br /> ## Image size can be edited using the size sliders located on the tool bar near the top of the screen, closer to the right.<br /> In Inkscape:<br /> # If your file is already in a vector format go to [File] &gt; [Open] to bring the graphic into Inkscape. If it is not a vector file go to [File] &gt; [Import] and Inkscape will bring in the file.<br /> # Set the page size to your desired dimensions under the [File] &gt; [Document Properties] menu. This will ensure that your graphic will not be larger than your piece of material.<br /> # Convert your graphic to a vector if needed. Do this by clicking [Path] &gt; [Trace Bitmap] and then pressing [Okay]. There are several different options in the bitmap menu that you can experiment with to find the best results. Generally, the color option works the best. Finish the process by right clicking and selecting the [ungroup] option so that each piece of the graphic can be edited.<br /> # Perform any desired edits on your graphic. If there is something you don't know how to do use google; Inkscape is a popular software and there are a lot of internet resources. When the file is exported to Cut studio a cut line will automatically be added around the edge of each object similar adding a stroke around each individual object. This can be an issue if you have several adjacent shapes creating a graphic but you only want to cut around the outside of the objects. To prevent this, select the group of objects you want to cut around and then got to [Path] &gt; [Union]. This will combine the group of objects into one shape with a continuous outline that will be cut out, but the downside is that the new singular object will be one color so if the objects were originally different colors they will be lost. However this does not matter for the Vinyl Cutter because it can only cut one color of vinyl anyway.<br /> # Save your file as an .svg and open it in Ai to use the Roland CutStudio extension. <br /> Cutting the graphic:<br /> * Under the Roland Cut Studio extension, select your graphic to view it in the RCS preview window.<br /> [[File:Basketball preview.png|1200px|none]]<br /> * After the file looks like intended, click on the &quot;Output to Paths&quot; button in the top right of the extension.<br /> * This will bring up a window in which you select &quot;Cut&quot; when you are ready to cut.<br /> [[File:Output to Paths Start Cut.png|1200px|none]]<br /> * After the cut is finished, the window will reflect this status. <br /> [[File:Output to Paths Finish Cut.png|1200px|none]]<br /> Unloading Material:<br /> # Use the directional keys to unspool a small amount of excess material.<br /> # Hold the [SHEET CUT] button to slice the cut material off, the left edge of the material should be held during this process, taking care to stay out of the way during the slicing process.<br /> # Press [MENU] until [UNSETUP] is displayed on the screen, then press [UNSETUP].<br /> # Press [ENTER].<br /> # Press [PINCH].<br /> # Remove the material by moving it through the rear of the machine.<br /> # Turn off power.<br /> Transferring the Graphic:<br /> # Use the weeding kit to remove all unwanted sections of the graphic.<br /> ## Tweezers are used to pinch and pull up unwanted sections.<br /> ## The rounded dental tools are used to hold down wanted sections to prevent them being peeled off with unwanted sections.<br /> # If necessary, cut the graphic off from any excess material.<br /> # Use scissors to cut out a piece of clear transfer paper slightly larger than your cut-out graphic.<br /> # Position it sticky side down over your graphic and use a squeegee to apply it the the graphic.<br /> ## This is done starting in the center of the graphic, and smoothed with the squeegee from the center out.<br /> # Once it is applied, flip the layers over and peel the backing of the vinyl material from the transfer paper.<br /> ## Peel at the greatest angle possible, aim for parallel to the transfer paper.<br /> ## Try to peel in a direction that flows with the graphic.<br /> # Position the peeled graphic over the medium it is to be applied to.<br /> # Starting with one end, begin to feed the graphic down onto the surface.<br /> ## '''AS THIS IS DONE''', use a squeegee to firmly smooth outward in alternating left and right strokes starting from the midline of the graphic to remove air bubbles.<br /> ## Continue this process until the graphic is completely applied and all air bubbles are removed.<br /> # Peel the transfer paper from the material, in the same manner as the backing of the vinyl was peeled off.<br /> &lt;nowiki&gt;*&lt;/nowiki&gt;Stickers do not have to be immediately applied to a surface. The process can be stopped at step 4.1 of Transferring the Graphic, and applied later in a similar manner. Using the squeegee to apply is also optional but may result in a less polished final product.<br /> <br /> == Certification ==<br /> Complete &lt;strong&gt;The Hub - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> == Troubleshooting ==<br /> * Not cutting all the way through material.<br /> ** Increase cut pressure.<br /> ** If pressure has to be increased by 50 to 60 gf, replace the blade.<br /> * Material is ripping/curling when cut.<br /> ** Replace blade.<br /> * Cuts not being made cleanly.<br /> ** Clean the blade holder cap.<br /> ** If problems persist, replace the blade holder.<br /> ** Blade might be dull and need to be replaced.<br /> * Blade protector is scratched and not cutting cleanly.<br /> ** Replace blade protector.<br /> <br /> == Maintenance ==<br /> <br /> ==== General Maintenance ====<br /> Most of the maintenance on the vinyl is incurred by use of the machine, instead of periodically. <br /> <br /> ==== Specific Maintenance Tasks ====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |Cleaning Machine<br /> |When parts are visibly dirty and after periods of heavy use<br /> |Student<br /> |-<br /> |Changing Blade<br /> |When needed<br /> |Ace<br /> |-<br /> |Changing/cleaning Blade Holder<br /> |When needed<br /> |Ace<br /> |-<br /> |Changing Blade Protector<br /> |When needed<br /> |Ace<br /> |}<br /> Turn machine off before performing any maintenance.<br /> <br /> Cleaning Machine:<br /> [[File:Vinyl_cutter_maintenance.jpg|none|frame]]<br /> <br /> # Grit Rollers.<br /> ## Wipe away any accumulated grime.<br /> # Display.<br /> ## Wipe clean with a dry cloth.<br /> # Pinch Rollers.<br /> ## Remove any build up material with a brush, do not use a metal brush.<br /> # General wipe down.<br /> ## Wipe down machine with a wet cloth.<br /> Changing Blade:<br /> *[https://files.rolanddga.com/files/gr_use_en/GR_USE_EN_00_basic_top.html Procedure in manual]<br /> *#Click [Maintenance/Replacement].<br /> *#Click [Replacing the Blade and the Separating Knife].<br /> Changing/cleaning Blade Holder:<br /> *[https://files.rolanddga.com/files/gr_use_en/GR_USE_EN_00_basic_top.html Procedure in manual]<br /> *#Click [Maintenance/Replacement].<br /> *#Click [Consumable Items].<br /> *#Click [Cleaning the Blade Holder Cap] under Blade Holder.<br /> Changing Blade Protector:<br /> * Contact Roland DG.</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Vinyl_Cutter&diff=11860 2025-08-20T16:35:49Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Operation */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=The Hub<br /> |Is used in domain=Vinyl<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has model=GR-640<br /> |Has make=Roland<br /> |Has serial number=KDF0752<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:Vinyl_cutter_icon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=Vinyl Cutter Icon<br /> |Has iconwname=<br /> |Has image=File:vinyl_cutter.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc= The Roland GR-640 Vinyl Cutter<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1329<br /> |Has ace=Summer Martindale;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}} <br /> <br /> Ace: '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> == Description ==<br /> Vinyl cutting is the process of cutting graphics out of vinyl to make adhesive vinyl applications. The maker hub has a Roland GR-640 cutter. It cuts larger format vinyl than the BN-20 [[Vinyl Printer]], but does not have printing capability. It is used to make stickers/cutouts for applications such as signage, vehicle graphics, apparel, etc. The vinyl cutter is used primarily for cutting vinyl sheeting, but can cut other materials if needed for a specific project, see [https://www.rolanddga.com/products/vinyl-cutters/camm-1-gr-large-format-cutters/applications this application page]<br /> <br /> Example process video:<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7uNKdjR1JY}}<br /> <br /> == Documentation ==<br /> <br /> The user manual has instruction on cutting, maintenance, and calibration. After opening the user manual, select the &quot;Basic Edition&quot; from the Table of Contents in the left column to view this information.<br /> <br /> [[Media:GR-640 540 420 User Manual english.pdf|Vinyl Cutter User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> * Weeding: the process of removing unwanted material after the vinyl has been cut<br /> * Graphic: the chosen image/picture to be formatted and cut<br /> * Adobe Illustrator 2025 (Ai): used to prep the graphic for cutting<br /> * Roland Cut Studio (RCS): an Ai extension used to finalize the format of the graphic and send it to the vinyl cutter for cutting<br /> * Vector images: an image constructed with mathematical formulas which makes it easy to resize and perform other edits<br /> * Raster images: an image constructed with pixels which means they cannot be resized without a change in resolution<br /> <br /> == Training ==<br /> <br /> ==== Operation ====<br /> Sticker making is the most frequent use of the vinyl cutter but it can be used for other applications as well depending on the type of material being cut. For cutting materials, vinyl rolls can be be found in the cabinet below the computer and loaded onto the material rack at the back of the machine. However, for most projects a small piece will be sufficient and it is recommended that you use the scrap pieces in the bin to the right of the computer as a result. As for other materials, heat transfer vinyl can be used (found in the cabinet to the right of the vinyl printer); further it is possible to cut other vinyl based materials if you find they are compatible with the machine and have them cleared by Justin. Uploaded graphics can be in any format, but .pdf is preferred. This is due to the vector format of .pdf files, other formats need to be converted to vector form in Adobe illustrator 2025. The vinyl cutter needs to be loaded and setup before a graphic can be sent to it and cut out. Once cutting has been completed, it also needs to be reset and turned off.<br /> <br /> ==== Demonstration ====<br /> The student will draw a 2 in. x 2 in. graphic and upload into Ai. They will then need to properly format it and use the RCS extension in Ai. Using RCS, they will finalize and cut the graphic. To finish they will weed the sticker and apply it to transfer paper. They can then choose to save the sticker for later or immediately apply it to a medium of their choice. The student is also responsible for setting up the vinyl cutter before it is used and resetting it after they are done.<br /> <br /> ==== General Procedure ====<br /> Loading Material:<br /> # Turn on power.<br /> # Feed material through back of machine; the vacuum should engage.<br /> # Align material with the rollers so it is covered at both corners and within the center if needed.<br /> ## Rollers can only be placed within the shiny silver strips located along the front of the cutter, above the header.<br /> ## Rollers are adjusted by sliding them using your fingers.<br /> # If possible, check to ensure the material lines up evenly with both sets of measurement lines on the lower front of the cutter.<br /> # If possible, leave an inch or two of excess material hanging down below the cutting head.<br /> # Use the arrow pad to select the type of media: roll, piece, etc.<br /> # Press [ENTER] to secure the material.<br /> # Move the cutting head to the left of the stock via the directional keys, then hold [ORIGIN] to set the starting point of the cut.<br /> Prepping a Graphic:<br /> <br /> In Adobe Illustrator:<br /> [[File:Ai 2024.jpg|1200px|none|Ai 2024 Home Page]]<br /> *Use Adobe illustrator '''2024''' (Ai).<br /> *Best practice is to start with a new work-space, then size the dimensions to the piece of material you are using.<br /> [[File:Blank doc.jpg|1200px|none]]<br /> *Open the Roland Cut Studio extension: Window &gt; Extensions &gt; Roland CutStudio<br /> [[File:Windows-Extensions-Roland CutStudios.jpg|1200px|none]]<br /> *For model setup, select the GR-640.<br /> Setting up the graphic in Ai:<br /> # File is .pdf (the ideal format):<br /> ## Use [File] &gt; [Open].<br /> ## Hit [Window] &gt; [Layers], this can also be dragged over to the toolbar on the right side of the screen.<br /> ### Use this to remove all unnecessary cut paths by selecting only the individual cut line and clicking the trashcan icon in the lower right of the screen.<br /> ### You’ll know you’ve removed an essential path if that part of the image disappears.<br /> ### Usually the goal of this step is to remove any large borders around the graphic.<br /> ## Image size can be edited using the size sliders located on the tool bar near the top of the screen, closer to the right.<br /> # File is .jpg/png (any non-vector format):<br /> ## Use [File] &gt; [Place].<br /> ## Click in the top left corner, then drag with the cursor until the graphic is the desired size.<br /> ## Use [Object] &gt; [Flatten Transparency] to convert the graphic to vector form, use the high resolution preset.<br /> ## Click [Image Trace] on the tool bar near the top middle of the screen, then click [Expand], which enables cut lines to be edited.<br /> ### Once this step is done, the graphic’s cut lines should show up in the Roland Cut Studio preview area, and the graphic should turn black.<br /> ## Hit [Window] &gt; [Layers], this can also be dragged over to the toolbar on the right side of the screen.<br /> ### Use this to remove all unnecessary cut paths by selecting only the individual cut line and clicking the trashcan icon in the lower right of the screen.<br /> ### You’ll know you’ve removed an essential path if that part of the image disappears.<br /> ### Usually the goal of this step is to remove any large borders around the graphic.<br /> ## Image size can be edited using the size sliders located on the tool bar near the top of the screen, closer to the right.<br /> In Inkscape:<br /> # If your file is already in a vector format go to [File] &gt; [Open] to bring the graphic into Inkscape. If it is not a vector file go to [File] &gt; [Import] and Inkscape will bring in the file.<br /> # Set the page size to your desired dimensions under the [File] &gt; [Document Properties] menu. This will ensure that your graphic will not be larger than your piece of material.<br /> # Convert your graphic to a vector if needed. Do this by clicking [Path] &gt; [Trace Bitmap] and then pressing [Okay]. There are several different options in the bitmap menu that you can experiment with to find the best results. Generally, the color option works the best. Finish the process by right clicking and selecting the [ungroup] option so that each piece of the graphic can be edited.<br /> # Perform any desired edits on your graphic. If there is something you don't know how to do use google; Inkscape is a popular software and there are a lot of internet resources. When the file is exported to Cut studio a cut line will automatically be added around the edge of each object similar adding a stroke around each individual object. This can be an issue if you have several adjacent shapes creating a graphic but you only want to cut around the outside of the objects. To prevent this, select the group of objects you want to cut around and then got to [Path] &gt; [Union]. This will combine the group of objects into one shape with a continuous outline that will be cut out, but the downside is that the new singular object will be one color so if the objects were originally different colors they will be lost. However this does not matter for the Vinyl Cutter because it can only cut one color of vinyl anyway.<br /> # Save your file as an .svg and open it in Ai to use the Roland CutStudio extension. <br /> Cutting the graphic:<br /> * Under the Roland Cut Studio extension, select your graphic to view it in the RCS preview window.<br /> [[File:Basketball preview.png|1200px|none]]<br /> * After the file looks like intended, click on the &quot;Output to Paths&quot; button in the top right of the extension.<br /> * This will bring up a window in which you select &quot;Cut&quot; when you are ready to cut.<br /> [[File:Output to Paths Start Cut.png|1200px|none]]<br /> * After the cut is finished, the window will reflect this status. <br /> [[File:Output to Paths Finish Cut.png|1200px|none]]<br /> Unloading Material:<br /> # Use the directional keys to unspool a small amount of excess material.<br /> # Hold the [SHEET CUT] button to slice the cut material off, the left edge of the material should be held during this process, taking care to stay out of the way during the slicing process.<br /> # Press [MENU] until [UNSETUP] is displayed on the screen, then press [UNSETUP].<br /> # Press [ENTER].<br /> # Press [PINCH].<br /> # Remove the material by moving it through the rear of the machine.<br /> # Turn off power.<br /> Transferring the Graphic:<br /> # Use the weeding kit to remove all unwanted sections of the graphic.<br /> ## Tweezers are used to pinch and pull up unwanted sections.<br /> ## The rounded dental tools are used to hold down wanted sections to prevent them being peeled off with unwanted sections.<br /> # If necessary, cut the graphic off from any excess material.<br /> # Use scissors to cut out a piece of clear transfer paper slightly larger than your cut-out graphic.<br /> # Position it sticky side down over your graphic and use a squeegee to apply it the the graphic.<br /> ## This is done starting in the center of the graphic, and smoothed with the squeegee from the center out.<br /> # Once it is applied, flip the layers over and peel the backing of the vinyl material from the transfer paper.<br /> ## Peel at the greatest angle possible, aim for parallel to the transfer paper.<br /> ## Try to peel in a direction that flows with the graphic.<br /> # Position the peeled graphic over the medium it is to be applied to.<br /> # Starting with one end, begin to feed the graphic down onto the surface.<br /> ## '''AS THIS IS DONE''', use a squeegee to firmly smooth outward in alternating left and right strokes starting from the midline of the graphic to remove air bubbles.<br /> ## Continue this process until the graphic is completely applied and all air bubbles are removed.<br /> # Peel the transfer paper from the material, in the same manner as the backing of the vinyl was peeled off.<br /> &lt;nowiki&gt;*&lt;/nowiki&gt;Stickers do not have to be immediately applied to a surface. The process can be stopped at step 4.1 of Transferring the Graphic, and applied later in a similar manner. Using the squeegee to apply is also optional but may result in a less polished final product.<br /> <br /> == Certification ==<br /> Complete &lt;strong&gt;The Hub - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> == Troubleshooting ==<br /> * Not cutting all the way through material.<br /> ** Increase cut pressure.<br /> ** If pressure has to be increased by 50 to 60 gf, replace the blade.<br /> * Material is ripping/curling when cut.<br /> ** Replace blade.<br /> * Cuts not being made cleanly.<br /> ** Clean the blade holder cap.<br /> ** If problems persist, replace the blade holder.<br /> ** Blade might be dull and need to be replaced.<br /> * Blade protector is scratched and not cutting cleanly.<br /> ** Replace blade protector.<br /> <br /> == Maintenance ==<br /> <br /> ==== General Maintenance ====<br /> Most of the maintenance on the vinyl is incurred by use of the machine, instead of periodically. <br /> <br /> ==== Specific Maintenance Tasks ====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |Cleaning Machine<br /> |When parts are visibly dirty and after periods of heavy use<br /> |Student<br /> |-<br /> |Changing Blade<br /> |When needed<br /> |Ace<br /> |-<br /> |Changing/cleaning Blade Holder<br /> |When needed<br /> |Ace<br /> |-<br /> |Changing Blade Protector<br /> |When needed<br /> |Ace<br /> |}<br /> Turn machine off before performing any maintenance.<br /> <br /> Cleaning Machine:<br /> [[File:Vinyl_cutter_maintenance.jpg|none|frame]]<br /> <br /> # Grit Rollers.<br /> ## Wipe away any accumulated grime.<br /> # Display.<br /> ## Wipe clean with a dry cloth.<br /> # Pinch Rollers.<br /> ## Remove any build up material with a brush, do not use a metal brush.<br /> # General wipe down.<br /> ## Wipe down machine with a wet cloth.<br /> Changing Blade:<br /> *[https://files.rolanddga.com/files/gr_use_en/GR_USE_EN_00_basic_top.html Procedure in manual]<br /> *#Click [Maintenance/Replacement].<br /> *#Click [Replacing the Blade and the Separating Knife].<br /> Changing/cleaning Blade Holder:<br /> *[https://files.rolanddga.com/files/gr_use_en/GR_USE_EN_00_basic_top.html Procedure in manual]<br /> *#Click [Maintenance/Replacement].<br /> *#Click [Consumable Items].<br /> *#Click [Cleaning the Blade Holder Cap] under Blade Holder.<br /> Changing Blade Protector:<br /> * Contact Roland DG.</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Vinyl_Cutter&diff=11859 2025-08-20T16:35:14Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Terminology */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=The Hub<br /> |Is used in domain=Vinyl<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has model=GR-640<br /> |Has make=Roland<br /> |Has serial number=KDF0752<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:Vinyl_cutter_icon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=Vinyl Cutter Icon<br /> |Has iconwname=<br /> |Has image=File:vinyl_cutter.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc= The Roland GR-640 Vinyl Cutter<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1329<br /> |Has ace=Summer Martindale;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}} <br /> <br /> Ace: '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> == Description ==<br /> Vinyl cutting is the process of cutting graphics out of vinyl to make adhesive vinyl applications. The maker hub has a Roland GR-640 cutter. It cuts larger format vinyl than the BN-20 [[Vinyl Printer]], but does not have printing capability. It is used to make stickers/cutouts for applications such as signage, vehicle graphics, apparel, etc. The vinyl cutter is used primarily for cutting vinyl sheeting, but can cut other materials if needed for a specific project, see [https://www.rolanddga.com/products/vinyl-cutters/camm-1-gr-large-format-cutters/applications this application page]<br /> <br /> Example process video:<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7uNKdjR1JY}}<br /> <br /> == Documentation ==<br /> <br /> The user manual has instruction on cutting, maintenance, and calibration. After opening the user manual, select the &quot;Basic Edition&quot; from the Table of Contents in the left column to view this information.<br /> <br /> [[Media:GR-640 540 420 User Manual english.pdf|Vinyl Cutter User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> * Weeding: the process of removing unwanted material after the vinyl has been cut<br /> * Graphic: the chosen image/picture to be formatted and cut<br /> * Adobe Illustrator 2025 (Ai): used to prep the graphic for cutting<br /> * Roland Cut Studio (RCS): an Ai extension used to finalize the format of the graphic and send it to the vinyl cutter for cutting<br /> * Vector images: an image constructed with mathematical formulas which makes it easy to resize and perform other edits<br /> * Raster images: an image constructed with pixels which means they cannot be resized without a change in resolution<br /> <br /> == Training ==<br /> <br /> ==== Operation ====<br /> Sticker making is the most frequent use of the vinyl cutter but it can be used for other applications as well depending on the type of material being cut. For cutting materials, vinyl rolls can be be found in the cabinet below the computer and loaded onto the material rack at the back of the machine. However, for most projects a small piece will be sufficient and it is recommended that you use the scrap pieces in the bin to the right of the computer as a result. As for other materials, heat transfer vinyl can be used (found in the cabinet to the right of the vinyl printer); further it is possible to cut other vinyl based materials if you find they are compatible with the machine and have them cleared by Justin. Uploaded graphics can be in any format, but .pdf is preferred. This is due to the vector format of .pdf files, other formats need to be converted to vector form in Adobe illustrator 2024. The vinyl cutter needs to be loaded and setup before a graphic can be sent to it and cut out. Once cutting has been completed, it also needs to be reset and turned off. <br /> <br /> ==== Demonstration ====<br /> The student will draw a 2 in. x 2 in. graphic and upload into Ai. They will then need to properly format it and use the RCS extension in Ai. Using RCS, they will finalize and cut the graphic. To finish they will weed the sticker and apply it to transfer paper. They can then choose to save the sticker for later or immediately apply it to a medium of their choice. The student is also responsible for setting up the vinyl cutter before it is used and resetting it after they are done.<br /> <br /> ==== General Procedure ====<br /> Loading Material:<br /> # Turn on power.<br /> # Feed material through back of machine; the vacuum should engage.<br /> # Align material with the rollers so it is covered at both corners and within the center if needed.<br /> ## Rollers can only be placed within the shiny silver strips located along the front of the cutter, above the header.<br /> ## Rollers are adjusted by sliding them using your fingers.<br /> # If possible, check to ensure the material lines up evenly with both sets of measurement lines on the lower front of the cutter.<br /> # If possible, leave an inch or two of excess material hanging down below the cutting head.<br /> # Use the arrow pad to select the type of media: roll, piece, etc.<br /> # Press [ENTER] to secure the material.<br /> # Move the cutting head to the left of the stock via the directional keys, then hold [ORIGIN] to set the starting point of the cut.<br /> Prepping a Graphic:<br /> <br /> In Adobe Illustrator:<br /> [[File:Ai 2024.jpg|1200px|none|Ai 2024 Home Page]]<br /> *Use Adobe illustrator '''2024''' (Ai).<br /> *Best practice is to start with a new work-space, then size the dimensions to the piece of material you are using.<br /> [[File:Blank doc.jpg|1200px|none]]<br /> *Open the Roland Cut Studio extension: Window &gt; Extensions &gt; Roland CutStudio<br /> [[File:Windows-Extensions-Roland CutStudios.jpg|1200px|none]]<br /> *For model setup, select the GR-640.<br /> Setting up the graphic in Ai:<br /> # File is .pdf (the ideal format):<br /> ## Use [File] &gt; [Open].<br /> ## Hit [Window] &gt; [Layers], this can also be dragged over to the toolbar on the right side of the screen.<br /> ### Use this to remove all unnecessary cut paths by selecting only the individual cut line and clicking the trashcan icon in the lower right of the screen.<br /> ### You’ll know you’ve removed an essential path if that part of the image disappears.<br /> ### Usually the goal of this step is to remove any large borders around the graphic.<br /> ## Image size can be edited using the size sliders located on the tool bar near the top of the screen, closer to the right.<br /> # File is .jpg/png (any non-vector format):<br /> ## Use [File] &gt; [Place].<br /> ## Click in the top left corner, then drag with the cursor until the graphic is the desired size.<br /> ## Use [Object] &gt; [Flatten Transparency] to convert the graphic to vector form, use the high resolution preset.<br /> ## Click [Image Trace] on the tool bar near the top middle of the screen, then click [Expand], which enables cut lines to be edited.<br /> ### Once this step is done, the graphic’s cut lines should show up in the Roland Cut Studio preview area, and the graphic should turn black.<br /> ## Hit [Window] &gt; [Layers], this can also be dragged over to the toolbar on the right side of the screen.<br /> ### Use this to remove all unnecessary cut paths by selecting only the individual cut line and clicking the trashcan icon in the lower right of the screen.<br /> ### You’ll know you’ve removed an essential path if that part of the image disappears.<br /> ### Usually the goal of this step is to remove any large borders around the graphic.<br /> ## Image size can be edited using the size sliders located on the tool bar near the top of the screen, closer to the right.<br /> In Inkscape:<br /> # If your file is already in a vector format go to [File] &gt; [Open] to bring the graphic into Inkscape. If it is not a vector file go to [File] &gt; [Import] and Inkscape will bring in the file.<br /> # Set the page size to your desired dimensions under the [File] &gt; [Document Properties] menu. This will ensure that your graphic will not be larger than your piece of material.<br /> # Convert your graphic to a vector if needed. Do this by clicking [Path] &gt; [Trace Bitmap] and then pressing [Okay]. There are several different options in the bitmap menu that you can experiment with to find the best results. Generally, the color option works the best. Finish the process by right clicking and selecting the [ungroup] option so that each piece of the graphic can be edited.<br /> # Perform any desired edits on your graphic. If there is something you don't know how to do use google; Inkscape is a popular software and there are a lot of internet resources. When the file is exported to Cut studio a cut line will automatically be added around the edge of each object similar adding a stroke around each individual object. This can be an issue if you have several adjacent shapes creating a graphic but you only want to cut around the outside of the objects. To prevent this, select the group of objects you want to cut around and then got to [Path] &gt; [Union]. This will combine the group of objects into one shape with a continuous outline that will be cut out, but the downside is that the new singular object will be one color so if the objects were originally different colors they will be lost. However this does not matter for the Vinyl Cutter because it can only cut one color of vinyl anyway.<br /> # Save your file as an .svg and open it in Ai to use the Roland CutStudio extension. <br /> Cutting the graphic:<br /> * Under the Roland Cut Studio extension, select your graphic to view it in the RCS preview window.<br /> [[File:Basketball preview.png|1200px|none]]<br /> * After the file looks like intended, click on the &quot;Output to Paths&quot; button in the top right of the extension.<br /> * This will bring up a window in which you select &quot;Cut&quot; when you are ready to cut.<br /> [[File:Output to Paths Start Cut.png|1200px|none]]<br /> * After the cut is finished, the window will reflect this status. <br /> [[File:Output to Paths Finish Cut.png|1200px|none]]<br /> Unloading Material:<br /> # Use the directional keys to unspool a small amount of excess material.<br /> # Hold the [SHEET CUT] button to slice the cut material off, the left edge of the material should be held during this process, taking care to stay out of the way during the slicing process.<br /> # Press [MENU] until [UNSETUP] is displayed on the screen, then press [UNSETUP].<br /> # Press [ENTER].<br /> # Press [PINCH].<br /> # Remove the material by moving it through the rear of the machine.<br /> # Turn off power.<br /> Transferring the Graphic:<br /> # Use the weeding kit to remove all unwanted sections of the graphic.<br /> ## Tweezers are used to pinch and pull up unwanted sections.<br /> ## The rounded dental tools are used to hold down wanted sections to prevent them being peeled off with unwanted sections.<br /> # If necessary, cut the graphic off from any excess material.<br /> # Use scissors to cut out a piece of clear transfer paper slightly larger than your cut-out graphic.<br /> # Position it sticky side down over your graphic and use a squeegee to apply it the the graphic.<br /> ## This is done starting in the center of the graphic, and smoothed with the squeegee from the center out.<br /> # Once it is applied, flip the layers over and peel the backing of the vinyl material from the transfer paper.<br /> ## Peel at the greatest angle possible, aim for parallel to the transfer paper.<br /> ## Try to peel in a direction that flows with the graphic.<br /> # Position the peeled graphic over the medium it is to be applied to.<br /> # Starting with one end, begin to feed the graphic down onto the surface.<br /> ## '''AS THIS IS DONE''', use a squeegee to firmly smooth outward in alternating left and right strokes starting from the midline of the graphic to remove air bubbles.<br /> ## Continue this process until the graphic is completely applied and all air bubbles are removed.<br /> # Peel the transfer paper from the material, in the same manner as the backing of the vinyl was peeled off.<br /> &lt;nowiki&gt;*&lt;/nowiki&gt;Stickers do not have to be immediately applied to a surface. The process can be stopped at step 4.1 of Transferring the Graphic, and applied later in a similar manner. Using the squeegee to apply is also optional but may result in a less polished final product.<br /> <br /> == Certification ==<br /> Complete &lt;strong&gt;The Hub - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> == Troubleshooting ==<br /> * Not cutting all the way through material.<br /> ** Increase cut pressure.<br /> ** If pressure has to be increased by 50 to 60 gf, replace the blade.<br /> * Material is ripping/curling when cut.<br /> ** Replace blade.<br /> * Cuts not being made cleanly.<br /> ** Clean the blade holder cap.<br /> ** If problems persist, replace the blade holder.<br /> ** Blade might be dull and need to be replaced.<br /> * Blade protector is scratched and not cutting cleanly.<br /> ** Replace blade protector.<br /> <br /> == Maintenance ==<br /> <br /> ==== General Maintenance ====<br /> Most of the maintenance on the vinyl is incurred by use of the machine, instead of periodically. <br /> <br /> ==== Specific Maintenance Tasks ====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |Cleaning Machine<br /> |When parts are visibly dirty and after periods of heavy use<br /> |Student<br /> |-<br /> |Changing Blade<br /> |When needed<br /> |Ace<br /> |-<br /> |Changing/cleaning Blade Holder<br /> |When needed<br /> |Ace<br /> |-<br /> |Changing Blade Protector<br /> |When needed<br /> |Ace<br /> |}<br /> Turn machine off before performing any maintenance.<br /> <br /> Cleaning Machine:<br /> [[File:Vinyl_cutter_maintenance.jpg|none|frame]]<br /> <br /> # Grit Rollers.<br /> ## Wipe away any accumulated grime.<br /> # Display.<br /> ## Wipe clean with a dry cloth.<br /> # Pinch Rollers.<br /> ## Remove any build up material with a brush, do not use a metal brush.<br /> # General wipe down.<br /> ## Wipe down machine with a wet cloth.<br /> Changing Blade:<br /> *[https://files.rolanddga.com/files/gr_use_en/GR_USE_EN_00_basic_top.html Procedure in manual]<br /> *#Click [Maintenance/Replacement].<br /> *#Click [Replacing the Blade and the Separating Knife].<br /> Changing/cleaning Blade Holder:<br /> *[https://files.rolanddga.com/files/gr_use_en/GR_USE_EN_00_basic_top.html Procedure in manual]<br /> *#Click [Maintenance/Replacement].<br /> *#Click [Consumable Items].<br /> *#Click [Cleaning the Blade Holder Cap] under Blade Holder.<br /> Changing Blade Protector:<br /> * Contact Roland DG.</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Wood_Drill_Press&diff=11858 2025-08-15T19:58:36Z

<p>Edejong22: </p> <hr /> <div>[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> {{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility= Wood Shop<br /> |Is used in domain=Wood<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Tekna Tool<br /> |Has model=Nova Voyager DVR<br /> |Has serial number=301545<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:wood_drill_press_icon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=Wood Drill Press icon<br /> |Has iconwname=File:wood_drill_press_icon_name.png<br /> |Has image=File:wood_drill_press_image.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=Nova Voyager dvr Drill Press<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1266<br /> |Has group=Woodworking<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}<br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> * Make sure you are wearing proper attire. (Safety glasses, short sleeves, closed toed shoes, no jewelry or any loose hanging accessories, and hair that is longer than collar-length must be tied up)  <br /> * Keep body parts or anything else other than the workpiece out of the path of the drill bit when on.<br /> * Do not move workpiece while drill bit is inside of workpiece.<br /> * Make sure the drill bit is secure and fastened into the chuck.<br /> * Make sure drill is at the appropriate speed.<br /> * Keep work piece secure so it can't rotate. If the work is long enough it should stick out to the left side of the operator against the vertical column to prevent rotation.<br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> This drill press is set on a fixed stand and is used for drilling holes in wood. It has been programmed with various material and bit profiles to make setting the speed extremely simple. Compatible materials include wood, metal, plastics, and glass.<br /> <br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8NTL8bPm7A}}<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oIhACZl9ylE}}<br /> <br /> ==Terminology/Anatomy==<br /> <br /> '''Workpiece''' – an object being worked on with a tool or machine.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Drill (verb)''' - to bore a hole into the workpiece.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Through Hole''' - a hole that goes completely through the workpiece.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Blind Hole''' - a hole that goes partially through the workpiece.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Feed Handle''' - a rotating three-pronged handle used to set the depth of the drill bit.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[Media:833-Voyager-Drill-Press-Manual-FINAL-version-20.Jul .2018.pdf|Wood Drill Press User Manual]]<br /> <br /> == Documentation ==<br /> <br /> * [https://www.teknatool.com/product/nova-voyager-dvr-variable-speed-drill-press-exclusive-amazon-bundle/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4PzDxsni2wIVFNNkCh3lBAcLEAAYASAAEgL5NvD_BwE Product Home Page]<br /> &lt;!--<br /> * &lt;figure-inline class=&quot;mw-default-size&quot;&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;[[File:wood_drill_press_operation_manual|220x220px]]&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;<br /> --&gt;<br /> * [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PvDExhAOC8 First look]<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> <br /> The Wood Drill Press is mainly used for drilling holes into wood.<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> To show a complete knowledge of the Wood Drill Press, students will demonstrate that they can set up everything, and drill a through hole and a blind hole. <br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> # Make sure you are wearing proper machine shop attire. (Safety glasses, rolled up or short sleeves, and closed toed shoes.)<br /> # Make sure the drill press is turned off whenever you make adjustments to your workpiece. <br /> # Mark your workpiece where the hole should be drilled, then use a hole starter to punch a hole for the drill bit if necessary. <br /> # Put the appropriate drill bit into the chuck and use the chuck key on the drill press to tighten it. Make sure you tighten all three sides of the chuck. Chuck key on left, Chuck on right.<br /> # Adjust the position of the table for your workpiece. <br /> ## The table height and rotational position can be adjusted using the handle on the column: <br /> ### Loosen the locking handle on the rear of the table bracket. NOTE: It is important to unlock this handle before adjusting the table.<br /> ### Rotate the crank handle attached to the rack to raise/lower the table to desired height. <br /> ### Swing the table around the column to the desired position.<br /> ### Re-tighten the locking handle, and ensure table is securely locked in place before drilling. <br /> ## To tilt the table:<br /> ### Loosen the bolt underneath the table using the 27mm closed end wrench included for this purpose. <br /> ### Loosen set screw underneath the previous bolt using 5mm Allen key. <br /> ### Tilt table to desired angle. <br /> ### Re-tighten bolt and set screw, and ensure table is securely locked in place before drilling.<br /> ## For blind holes, use the depth stop to stop the drill bit at the desired depth.<br /> ### Adjust the depth stop by rotating it until it is at the desired height.<br /> #### For large adjustments, pressing the button on the depth stop enables it to move up and down freely. <br /> ### The lever to the right of the spindle may be used to lock the drill bit at a desired depth while you adjust the depth stop. (i.e. lock the drill bit at the depth you want, then move the depth stop to the corresponding position.)<br /> #### Remember to unlock the lever prior to drilling. <br /> # Line piece up with drill bit and fasten down onto work table using a clamp or vice. If drilling a through hole, put a piece of FLAT scrap wood under the piece being drilled to avoid a blowout. <br /> # Turn power on using switch located on the right side of the machine as shown in the picture below. The yellow tab must be in place for the drill to be powered on.[[File:...voyagerthing.png|none|thumb]]<br /> # Now the display screen should be on. Using the buttons, adjust the speed to the correct specifications needed to cut the material using the built-in computer. <br /> ## To use the speed chart: <br /> ### Go to the Menu &gt; Speed Chart. <br /> ### Select the type of drill bit. <br /> ### Select the drill bit size. <br /> ### Select the work piece material. <br /> ### Confirm the new set speed.<br /> ### The display will return to the default screen with the new speed selected. <br /> # After getting everything set up, turn the drill press on. (NEVER put your hand or any other body part in the path of the drill) <br /> # Pull the lever to drill hole. (NEVER move workpiece while drilling a hole) <br /> # Turn machine off before drilling next hole and when you are done drilling current hole. <br /> # When done, remove drill bit. ( When loose, use one hand to unscrew and the other to hold the drill bit, so the drill bit does not fall and get damaged.)<br /> # When done, return all borrowed equipment and clean work area.<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete the &lt;strong&gt;Wood Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> * It may be helpful to clamp down smaller work pieces to keep them from spinning while drilling a hole. <br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> Maintenance will be done to ensure the quality of the device. Tasks and their corresponding frequencies are listed below.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |Clean area and Drill Press<br /> |After each use<br /> |Student<br /> |-<br /> |Wax exposed cast iron parts with paste wax<br /> |Monthhly<br /> |Ace<br /> |-<br /> |Lubricate gear and rack in the table elevation mechanism and the splines (grooves) in the spindle with a #2 tube grease, and lubricate the teeth of the feed shaft assembly and quill shaft with one or two drops of light weight oil.<br /> |6 months<br /> |Ace<br /> |}<br /> <br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> This drill press is set on a fixed stand and is used for drilling holes in wood. It has been programmed with various material and bit profiles to make setting the speed extremely simple.<br /> <br /> The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;!--<br /> == Training ==<br /> * &lt;figure-inline class=&quot;mw-default-size&quot;&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;[[File:wood_drill_press_operation_manual|220x220px]]&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;<br /> &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;<br /> --&gt;</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Wood_Drill_Press&diff=11857 2025-08-15T19:58:05Z

<p>Edejong22: </p> <hr /> <div>[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> {{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility= Wood Shop<br /> |Is used in domain=Wood<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Tekna Tool<br /> |Has model=Nova Voyager DVR<br /> |Has serial number=301545<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:wood_drill_press_icon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=Wood Drill Press icon<br /> |Has iconwname=File:wood_drill_press_icon_name.png<br /> |Has image=File:wood_drill_press_image.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=Nova Voyager dvr Drill Press<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1266<br /> |Has group=Woodworking<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}<br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> * Make sure you are wearing proper attire. (Safety glasses, short sleeves, closed toed shoes, no jewelry or any loose hanging accessories, and hair that is longer than collar-length must be tied up)  <br /> * Keep body parts or anything else other than the workpiece out of the path of the drill bit when on.<br /> * Do not move workpiece while drill bit is inside of workpiece.<br /> * Make sure the drill bit is secure and fastened into the chuck.<br /> * Make sure drill is at the appropriate speed.<br /> * Keep work piece secure so it can't rotate. If the work is long enough it should stick out to the left side of the operator against the vertical column to prevent rotation.<br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> This drill press is set on a fixed stand and is used for drilling holes in wood. It has been programmed with various material and bit profiles to make setting the speed extremely simple. Compatible materials include wood, metal, plastics, and glass.<br /> <br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8NTL8bPm7A}}<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oIhACZl9ylE}}<br /> <br /> ==Terminology/Anatomy==<br /> <br /> '''Workpiece''' – an object being worked on with a tool or machine.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Drill (verb)''' - to bore a hole into the workpiece.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Through Hole''' - a hole that goes completely through the workpiece.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Blind Hole''' - a hole that goes partially through the workpiece.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Feed Handle''' - a rotating three-pronged handle used to set the depth of the drill bit.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[Media:833-Voyager-Drill-Press-Manual-FINAL-version-20.Jul .2018.pdf|Wood Drill Press User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> <br /> The Wood Drill Press is mainly used for drilling holes into wood.<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> To show a complete knowledge of the Wood Drill Press, students will demonstrate that they can set up everything, and drill a through hole and a blind hole. <br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> # Make sure you are wearing proper machine shop attire. (Safety glasses, rolled up or short sleeves, and closed toed shoes.)<br /> # Make sure the drill press is turned off whenever you make adjustments to your workpiece. <br /> # Mark your workpiece where the hole should be drilled, then use a hole starter to punch a hole for the drill bit if necessary. <br /> # Put the appropriate drill bit into the chuck and use the chuck key on the drill press to tighten it. Make sure you tighten all three sides of the chuck. Chuck key on left, Chuck on right.<br /> # Adjust the position of the table for your workpiece. <br /> ## The table height and rotational position can be adjusted using the handle on the column: <br /> ### Loosen the locking handle on the rear of the table bracket. NOTE: It is important to unlock this handle before adjusting the table.<br /> ### Rotate the crank handle attached to the rack to raise/lower the table to desired height. <br /> ### Swing the table around the column to the desired position.<br /> ### Re-tighten the locking handle, and ensure table is securely locked in place before drilling. <br /> ## To tilt the table:<br /> ### Loosen the bolt underneath the table using the 27mm closed end wrench included for this purpose. <br /> ### Loosen set screw underneath the previous bolt using 5mm Allen key. <br /> ### Tilt table to desired angle. <br /> ### Re-tighten bolt and set screw, and ensure table is securely locked in place before drilling.<br /> ## For blind holes, use the depth stop to stop the drill bit at the desired depth.<br /> ### Adjust the depth stop by rotating it until it is at the desired height.<br /> #### For large adjustments, pressing the button on the depth stop enables it to move up and down freely. <br /> ### The lever to the right of the spindle may be used to lock the drill bit at a desired depth while you adjust the depth stop. (i.e. lock the drill bit at the depth you want, then move the depth stop to the corresponding position.)<br /> #### Remember to unlock the lever prior to drilling. <br /> # Line piece up with drill bit and fasten down onto work table using a clamp or vice. If drilling a through hole, put a piece of FLAT scrap wood under the piece being drilled to avoid a blowout. <br /> # Turn power on using switch located on the right side of the machine as shown in the picture below. The yellow tab must be in place for the drill to be powered on.[[File:...voyagerthing.png|none|thumb]]<br /> # Now the display screen should be on. Using the buttons, adjust the speed to the correct specifications needed to cut the material using the built-in computer. <br /> ## To use the speed chart: <br /> ### Go to the Menu &gt; Speed Chart. <br /> ### Select the type of drill bit. <br /> ### Select the drill bit size. <br /> ### Select the work piece material. <br /> ### Confirm the new set speed.<br /> ### The display will return to the default screen with the new speed selected. <br /> # After getting everything set up, turn the drill press on. (NEVER put your hand or any other body part in the path of the drill) <br /> # Pull the lever to drill hole. (NEVER move workpiece while drilling a hole) <br /> # Turn machine off before drilling next hole and when you are done drilling current hole. <br /> # When done, remove drill bit. ( When loose, use one hand to unscrew and the other to hold the drill bit, so the drill bit does not fall and get damaged.)<br /> # When done, return all borrowed equipment and clean work area.<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete the &lt;strong&gt;Wood Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> * It may be helpful to clamp down smaller work pieces to keep them from spinning while drilling a hole. <br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> Maintenance will be done to ensure the quality of the device. Tasks and their corresponding frequencies are listed below.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |Clean area and Drill Press<br /> |After each use<br /> |Student<br /> |-<br /> |Wax exposed cast iron parts with paste wax<br /> |Monthhly<br /> |Ace<br /> |-<br /> |Lubricate gear and rack in the table elevation mechanism and the splines (grooves) in the spindle with a #2 tube grease, and lubricate the teeth of the feed shaft assembly and quill shaft with one or two drops of light weight oil.<br /> |6 months<br /> |Ace<br /> |}<br /> <br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> This drill press is set on a fixed stand and is used for drilling holes in wood. It has been programmed with various material and bit profiles to make setting the speed extremely simple.<br /> <br /> The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> == Documentation ==<br /> <br /> * [https://www.teknatool.com/product/nova-voyager-dvr-variable-speed-drill-press-exclusive-amazon-bundle/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4PzDxsni2wIVFNNkCh3lBAcLEAAYASAAEgL5NvD_BwE Product Home Page]<br /> &lt;!--<br /> * &lt;figure-inline class=&quot;mw-default-size&quot;&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;[[File:wood_drill_press_operation_manual|220x220px]]&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;<br /> --&gt;<br /> * [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PvDExhAOC8 First look]<br /> <br /> &lt;!--<br /> == Training ==<br /> * &lt;figure-inline class=&quot;mw-default-size&quot;&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;[[File:wood_drill_press_operation_manual|220x220px]]&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;<br /> &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;<br /> --&gt;</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Wood_Drill_Press&diff=11856 2025-08-15T19:57:39Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Documentation */</p> <hr /> <div>[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> {{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility= Wood Shop<br /> |Is used in domain=Wood<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Tekna Tool<br /> |Has model=Nova Voyager DVR<br /> |Has serial number=301545<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:wood_drill_press_icon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=Wood Drill Press icon<br /> |Has iconwname=File:wood_drill_press_icon_name.png<br /> |Has image=File:wood_drill_press_image.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=Nova Voyager dvr Drill Press<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1266<br /> |Has group=Woodworking<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}<br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> * Make sure you are wearing proper attire. (Safety glasses, short sleeves, closed toed shoes, no jewelry or any loose hanging accessories, and hair that is longer than collar-length must be tied up)  <br /> * Keep body parts or anything else other than the workpiece out of the path of the drill bit when on.<br /> * Do not move workpiece while drill bit is inside of workpiece.<br /> * Make sure the drill bit is secure and fastened into the chuck.<br /> * Make sure drill is at the appropriate speed.<br /> * Keep work piece secure so it can't rotate. If the work is long enough it should stick out to the left side of the operator against the vertical column to prevent rotation.<br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> This drill press is set on a fixed stand and is used for drilling holes in wood. It has been programmed with various material and bit profiles to make setting the speed extremely simple. Compatible materials include wood, metal, plastics, and glass.<br /> <br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8NTL8bPm7A}}<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oIhACZl9ylE}}<br /> <br /> ==Terminology/Anatomy==<br /> <br /> '''Workpiece''' – an object being worked on with a tool or machine.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Drill (verb)''' - to bore a hole into the workpiece.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Through Hole''' - a hole that goes completely through the workpiece.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Blind Hole''' - a hole that goes partially through the workpiece.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Feed Handle''' - a rotating three-pronged handle used to set the depth of the drill bit.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[Media:833-Voyager-Drill-Press-Manual-FINAL-version-20.Jul .2018.pdf|Wood Drill Press User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> <br /> The Wood Drill Press is mainly used for drilling holes into wood.<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> To show a complete knowledge of the Wood Drill Press, students will demonstrate that they can set up everything, and drill a through hole and a blind hole. <br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> # Make sure you are wearing proper machine shop attire. (Safety glasses, rolled up or short sleeves, and closed toed shoes.)<br /> # Make sure the drill press is turned off whenever you make adjustments to your workpiece. <br /> # Mark your workpiece where the hole should be drilled, then use a hole starter to punch a hole for the drill bit if necessary. <br /> # Put the appropriate drill bit into the chuck and use the chuck key on the drill press to tighten it. Make sure you tighten all three sides of the chuck. Chuck key on left, Chuck on right.<br /> # Adjust the position of the table for your workpiece. <br /> ## The table height and rotational position can be adjusted using the handle on the column: <br /> ### Loosen the locking handle on the rear of the table bracket. NOTE: It is important to unlock this handle before adjusting the table.<br /> ### Rotate the crank handle attached to the rack to raise/lower the table to desired height. <br /> ### Swing the table around the column to the desired position.<br /> ### Re-tighten the locking handle, and ensure table is securely locked in place before drilling. <br /> ## To tilt the table:<br /> ### Loosen the bolt underneath the table using the 27mm closed end wrench included for this purpose. <br /> ### Loosen set screw underneath the previous bolt using 5mm Allen key. <br /> ### Tilt table to desired angle. <br /> ### Re-tighten bolt and set screw, and ensure table is securely locked in place before drilling.<br /> ## For blind holes, use the depth stop to stop the drill bit at the desired depth.<br /> ### Adjust the depth stop by rotating it until it is at the desired height.<br /> #### For large adjustments, pressing the button on the depth stop enables it to move up and down freely. <br /> ### The lever to the right of the spindle may be used to lock the drill bit at a desired depth while you adjust the depth stop. (i.e. lock the drill bit at the depth you want, then move the depth stop to the corresponding position.)<br /> #### Remember to unlock the lever prior to drilling. <br /> # Line piece up with drill bit and fasten down onto work table using a clamp or vice. If drilling a through hole, put a piece of FLAT scrap wood under the piece being drilled to avoid a blowout. <br /> # Turn power on using switch located on the right side of the machine as shown in the picture below. The yellow tab must be in place for the drill to be powered on.[[File:...voyagerthing.png|none|thumb]]<br /> # Now the display screen should be on. Using the buttons, adjust the speed to the correct specifications needed to cut the material using the built-in computer. <br /> ## To use the speed chart: <br /> ### Go to the Menu &gt; Speed Chart. <br /> ### Select the type of drill bit. <br /> ### Select the drill bit size. <br /> ### Select the work piece material. <br /> ### Confirm the new set speed.<br /> ### The display will return to the default screen with the new speed selected. <br /> # After getting everything set up, turn the drill press on. (NEVER put your hand or any other body part in the path of the drill) <br /> # Pull the lever to drill hole. (NEVER move workpiece while drilling a hole) <br /> # Turn machine off before drilling next hole and when you are done drilling current hole. <br /> # When done, remove drill bit. ( When loose, use one hand to unscrew and the other to hold the drill bit, so the drill bit does not fall and get damaged.)<br /> # When done, return all borrowed equipment and clean work area.<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete the &lt;strong&gt;Wood Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> * It may be helpful to clamp down smaller work pieces to keep them from spinning while drilling a hole. <br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> Maintenance will be done to ensure the quality of the device. Tasks and their corresponding frequencies are listed below.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |Clean area and Drill Press<br /> |After each use<br /> |Student<br /> |-<br /> |Wax exposed cast iron parts with paste wax<br /> |Monthhly<br /> |Ace<br /> |-<br /> |Lubricate gear and rack in the table elevation mechanism and the splines (grooves) in the spindle with a #2 tube grease, and lubricate the teeth of the feed shaft assembly and quill shaft with one or two drops of light weight oil.<br /> |6 months<br /> |Ace<br /> |}<br /> <br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> This drill press is set on a fixed stand and is used for drilling holes in wood. It has been programmed with various material and bit profiles to make setting the speed extremely simple.<br /> <br /> The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> == Documentation ==<br /> <br /> * [https://www.teknatool.com/product/nova-voyager-dvr-variable-speed-drill-press-exclusive-amazon-bundle/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4PzDxsni2wIVFNNkCh3lBAcLEAAYASAAEgL5NvD_BwE Product Home Page]<br /> &lt;!--<br /> * &lt;figure-inline class=&quot;mw-default-size&quot;&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;[[File:wood_drill_press_operation_manual|220x220px]]&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;<br /> --&gt;<br /> * [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PvDExhAOC8 First look]<br /> <br /> == Training ==<br /> * &lt;figure-inline class=&quot;mw-default-size&quot;&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;[[File:wood_drill_press_operation_manual|220x220px]]&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;<br /> &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Wood_Drill_Press&diff=11855 2025-08-15T19:56:45Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Documentation */</p> <hr /> <div>[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> {{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility= Wood Shop<br /> |Is used in domain=Wood<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Tekna Tool<br /> |Has model=Nova Voyager DVR<br /> |Has serial number=301545<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:wood_drill_press_icon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=Wood Drill Press icon<br /> |Has iconwname=File:wood_drill_press_icon_name.png<br /> |Has image=File:wood_drill_press_image.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=Nova Voyager dvr Drill Press<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1266<br /> |Has group=Woodworking<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}<br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> * Make sure you are wearing proper attire. (Safety glasses, short sleeves, closed toed shoes, no jewelry or any loose hanging accessories, and hair that is longer than collar-length must be tied up)  <br /> * Keep body parts or anything else other than the workpiece out of the path of the drill bit when on.<br /> * Do not move workpiece while drill bit is inside of workpiece.<br /> * Make sure the drill bit is secure and fastened into the chuck.<br /> * Make sure drill is at the appropriate speed.<br /> * Keep work piece secure so it can't rotate. If the work is long enough it should stick out to the left side of the operator against the vertical column to prevent rotation.<br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> This drill press is set on a fixed stand and is used for drilling holes in wood. It has been programmed with various material and bit profiles to make setting the speed extremely simple. Compatible materials include wood, metal, plastics, and glass.<br /> <br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8NTL8bPm7A}}<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oIhACZl9ylE}}<br /> <br /> ==Terminology/Anatomy==<br /> <br /> '''Workpiece''' – an object being worked on with a tool or machine.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Drill (verb)''' - to bore a hole into the workpiece.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Through Hole''' - a hole that goes completely through the workpiece.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Blind Hole''' - a hole that goes partially through the workpiece.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Feed Handle''' - a rotating three-pronged handle used to set the depth of the drill bit.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[Media:833-Voyager-Drill-Press-Manual-FINAL-version-20.Jul .2018.pdf|Wood Drill Press User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> <br /> The Wood Drill Press is mainly used for drilling holes into wood.<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> To show a complete knowledge of the Wood Drill Press, students will demonstrate that they can set up everything, and drill a through hole and a blind hole. <br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> # Make sure you are wearing proper machine shop attire. (Safety glasses, rolled up or short sleeves, and closed toed shoes.)<br /> # Make sure the drill press is turned off whenever you make adjustments to your workpiece. <br /> # Mark your workpiece where the hole should be drilled, then use a hole starter to punch a hole for the drill bit if necessary. <br /> # Put the appropriate drill bit into the chuck and use the chuck key on the drill press to tighten it. Make sure you tighten all three sides of the chuck. Chuck key on left, Chuck on right.<br /> # Adjust the position of the table for your workpiece. <br /> ## The table height and rotational position can be adjusted using the handle on the column: <br /> ### Loosen the locking handle on the rear of the table bracket. NOTE: It is important to unlock this handle before adjusting the table.<br /> ### Rotate the crank handle attached to the rack to raise/lower the table to desired height. <br /> ### Swing the table around the column to the desired position.<br /> ### Re-tighten the locking handle, and ensure table is securely locked in place before drilling. <br /> ## To tilt the table:<br /> ### Loosen the bolt underneath the table using the 27mm closed end wrench included for this purpose. <br /> ### Loosen set screw underneath the previous bolt using 5mm Allen key. <br /> ### Tilt table to desired angle. <br /> ### Re-tighten bolt and set screw, and ensure table is securely locked in place before drilling.<br /> ## For blind holes, use the depth stop to stop the drill bit at the desired depth.<br /> ### Adjust the depth stop by rotating it until it is at the desired height.<br /> #### For large adjustments, pressing the button on the depth stop enables it to move up and down freely. <br /> ### The lever to the right of the spindle may be used to lock the drill bit at a desired depth while you adjust the depth stop. (i.e. lock the drill bit at the depth you want, then move the depth stop to the corresponding position.)<br /> #### Remember to unlock the lever prior to drilling. <br /> # Line piece up with drill bit and fasten down onto work table using a clamp or vice. If drilling a through hole, put a piece of FLAT scrap wood under the piece being drilled to avoid a blowout. <br /> # Turn power on using switch located on the right side of the machine as shown in the picture below. The yellow tab must be in place for the drill to be powered on.[[File:...voyagerthing.png|none|thumb]]<br /> # Now the display screen should be on. Using the buttons, adjust the speed to the correct specifications needed to cut the material using the built-in computer. <br /> ## To use the speed chart: <br /> ### Go to the Menu &gt; Speed Chart. <br /> ### Select the type of drill bit. <br /> ### Select the drill bit size. <br /> ### Select the work piece material. <br /> ### Confirm the new set speed.<br /> ### The display will return to the default screen with the new speed selected. <br /> # After getting everything set up, turn the drill press on. (NEVER put your hand or any other body part in the path of the drill) <br /> # Pull the lever to drill hole. (NEVER move workpiece while drilling a hole) <br /> # Turn machine off before drilling next hole and when you are done drilling current hole. <br /> # When done, remove drill bit. ( When loose, use one hand to unscrew and the other to hold the drill bit, so the drill bit does not fall and get damaged.)<br /> # When done, return all borrowed equipment and clean work area.<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete the &lt;strong&gt;Wood Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> * It may be helpful to clamp down smaller work pieces to keep them from spinning while drilling a hole. <br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> Maintenance will be done to ensure the quality of the device. Tasks and their corresponding frequencies are listed below.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |Clean area and Drill Press<br /> |After each use<br /> |Student<br /> |-<br /> |Wax exposed cast iron parts with paste wax<br /> |Monthhly<br /> |Ace<br /> |-<br /> |Lubricate gear and rack in the table elevation mechanism and the splines (grooves) in the spindle with a #2 tube grease, and lubricate the teeth of the feed shaft assembly and quill shaft with one or two drops of light weight oil.<br /> |6 months<br /> |Ace<br /> |}<br /> <br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> This drill press is set on a fixed stand and is used for drilling holes in wood. It has been programmed with various material and bit profiles to make setting the speed extremely simple.<br /> <br /> The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> == Documentation ==<br /> <br /> * [https://www.teknatool.com/product/nova-voyager-dvr-variable-speed-drill-press-exclusive-amazon-bundle/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4PzDxsni2wIVFNNkCh3lBAcLEAAYASAAEgL5NvD_BwE Product Home Page]<br /> --!<br /> * &lt;figure-inline class=&quot;mw-default-size&quot;&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;[[File:wood_drill_press_operation_manual|220x220px]]&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;<br /> &lt;--<br /> * [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PvDExhAOC8 First look]<br /> <br /> == Training ==<br /> * &lt;figure-inline class=&quot;mw-default-size&quot;&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;[[File:wood_drill_press_operation_manual|220x220px]]&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;<br /> &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Wood_Drill_Press&diff=11854 2025-08-15T19:56:01Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Documentation */</p> <hr /> <div>[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> {{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility= Wood Shop<br /> |Is used in domain=Wood<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Tekna Tool<br /> |Has model=Nova Voyager DVR<br /> |Has serial number=301545<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:wood_drill_press_icon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=Wood Drill Press icon<br /> |Has iconwname=File:wood_drill_press_icon_name.png<br /> |Has image=File:wood_drill_press_image.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=Nova Voyager dvr Drill Press<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1266<br /> |Has group=Woodworking<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}<br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> * Make sure you are wearing proper attire. (Safety glasses, short sleeves, closed toed shoes, no jewelry or any loose hanging accessories, and hair that is longer than collar-length must be tied up)  <br /> * Keep body parts or anything else other than the workpiece out of the path of the drill bit when on.<br /> * Do not move workpiece while drill bit is inside of workpiece.<br /> * Make sure the drill bit is secure and fastened into the chuck.<br /> * Make sure drill is at the appropriate speed.<br /> * Keep work piece secure so it can't rotate. If the work is long enough it should stick out to the left side of the operator against the vertical column to prevent rotation.<br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> This drill press is set on a fixed stand and is used for drilling holes in wood. It has been programmed with various material and bit profiles to make setting the speed extremely simple. Compatible materials include wood, metal, plastics, and glass.<br /> <br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8NTL8bPm7A}}<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oIhACZl9ylE}}<br /> <br /> ==Terminology/Anatomy==<br /> <br /> '''Workpiece''' – an object being worked on with a tool or machine.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Drill (verb)''' - to bore a hole into the workpiece.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Through Hole''' - a hole that goes completely through the workpiece.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Blind Hole''' - a hole that goes partially through the workpiece.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Feed Handle''' - a rotating three-pronged handle used to set the depth of the drill bit.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[Media:833-Voyager-Drill-Press-Manual-FINAL-version-20.Jul .2018.pdf|Wood Drill Press User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> <br /> The Wood Drill Press is mainly used for drilling holes into wood.<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> To show a complete knowledge of the Wood Drill Press, students will demonstrate that they can set up everything, and drill a through hole and a blind hole. <br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> # Make sure you are wearing proper machine shop attire. (Safety glasses, rolled up or short sleeves, and closed toed shoes.)<br /> # Make sure the drill press is turned off whenever you make adjustments to your workpiece. <br /> # Mark your workpiece where the hole should be drilled, then use a hole starter to punch a hole for the drill bit if necessary. <br /> # Put the appropriate drill bit into the chuck and use the chuck key on the drill press to tighten it. Make sure you tighten all three sides of the chuck. Chuck key on left, Chuck on right.<br /> # Adjust the position of the table for your workpiece. <br /> ## The table height and rotational position can be adjusted using the handle on the column: <br /> ### Loosen the locking handle on the rear of the table bracket. NOTE: It is important to unlock this handle before adjusting the table.<br /> ### Rotate the crank handle attached to the rack to raise/lower the table to desired height. <br /> ### Swing the table around the column to the desired position.<br /> ### Re-tighten the locking handle, and ensure table is securely locked in place before drilling. <br /> ## To tilt the table:<br /> ### Loosen the bolt underneath the table using the 27mm closed end wrench included for this purpose. <br /> ### Loosen set screw underneath the previous bolt using 5mm Allen key. <br /> ### Tilt table to desired angle. <br /> ### Re-tighten bolt and set screw, and ensure table is securely locked in place before drilling.<br /> ## For blind holes, use the depth stop to stop the drill bit at the desired depth.<br /> ### Adjust the depth stop by rotating it until it is at the desired height.<br /> #### For large adjustments, pressing the button on the depth stop enables it to move up and down freely. <br /> ### The lever to the right of the spindle may be used to lock the drill bit at a desired depth while you adjust the depth stop. (i.e. lock the drill bit at the depth you want, then move the depth stop to the corresponding position.)<br /> #### Remember to unlock the lever prior to drilling. <br /> # Line piece up with drill bit and fasten down onto work table using a clamp or vice. If drilling a through hole, put a piece of FLAT scrap wood under the piece being drilled to avoid a blowout. <br /> # Turn power on using switch located on the right side of the machine as shown in the picture below. The yellow tab must be in place for the drill to be powered on.[[File:...voyagerthing.png|none|thumb]]<br /> # Now the display screen should be on. Using the buttons, adjust the speed to the correct specifications needed to cut the material using the built-in computer. <br /> ## To use the speed chart: <br /> ### Go to the Menu &gt; Speed Chart. <br /> ### Select the type of drill bit. <br /> ### Select the drill bit size. <br /> ### Select the work piece material. <br /> ### Confirm the new set speed.<br /> ### The display will return to the default screen with the new speed selected. <br /> # After getting everything set up, turn the drill press on. (NEVER put your hand or any other body part in the path of the drill) <br /> # Pull the lever to drill hole. (NEVER move workpiece while drilling a hole) <br /> # Turn machine off before drilling next hole and when you are done drilling current hole. <br /> # When done, remove drill bit. ( When loose, use one hand to unscrew and the other to hold the drill bit, so the drill bit does not fall and get damaged.)<br /> # When done, return all borrowed equipment and clean work area.<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete the &lt;strong&gt;Wood Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> * It may be helpful to clamp down smaller work pieces to keep them from spinning while drilling a hole. <br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> Maintenance will be done to ensure the quality of the device. Tasks and their corresponding frequencies are listed below.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |Clean area and Drill Press<br /> |After each use<br /> |Student<br /> |-<br /> |Wax exposed cast iron parts with paste wax<br /> |Monthhly<br /> |Ace<br /> |-<br /> |Lubricate gear and rack in the table elevation mechanism and the splines (grooves) in the spindle with a #2 tube grease, and lubricate the teeth of the feed shaft assembly and quill shaft with one or two drops of light weight oil.<br /> |6 months<br /> |Ace<br /> |}<br /> <br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> This drill press is set on a fixed stand and is used for drilling holes in wood. It has been programmed with various material and bit profiles to make setting the speed extremely simple.<br /> <br /> The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> == Documentation ==<br /> <br /> * [https://www.teknatool.com/product/nova-voyager-dvr-variable-speed-drill-press-exclusive-amazon-bundle/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4PzDxsni2wIVFNNkCh3lBAcLEAAYASAAEgL5NvD_BwE Product Home Page]<br /> !--<br /> * &lt;figure-inline class=&quot;mw-default-size&quot;&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;[[File:wood_drill_press_operation_manual|220x220px]]&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;<br /> &lt;--<br /> * [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PvDExhAOC8 First look]<br /> <br /> == Training ==<br /> * &lt;figure-inline class=&quot;mw-default-size&quot;&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;&lt;figure-inline&gt;[[File:wood_drill_press_operation_manual|220x220px]]&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;&lt;/figure-inline&gt;<br /> &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=TIG_Welder&diff=11853 2025-08-15T19:50:30Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Troubleshooting */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=Welding Shop<br /> |Is used in domain=<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make= Miller<br /> |Has model=Syncrowave 250DX<br /> |Has serial number=MJ430071L<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:TIG welder.png<br /> |Has icondesc= Tig Welder<br /> |Has iconwname=<br /> |Has image=File:Syncrowave 250 DX TR.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc= Miller 250 DX<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1270<br /> |Has ace=Wyatt Bertis;wbertis22@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}} <br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> * Don't exceed gas pressure past specified value<br /> * Don't weld with gas off<br /> * Always use a welding helmet and proper PPE <br /> * Don't weld in wet gear or standing water<br /> * Don't unscrew regulator adjusting screw all the way out<br /> * Make sure ground clamp is connected to work<br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> TIG stands for tungsten inert gas and is technically called gas tungsten arc welding (GTAW). The process uses a tungsten electrode located in a hand held torch that delivers the current to the welding arc. The tungsten and weld puddle are shielded and cooled with argon gas. A filler rod is used to manually add material to the weld puddle. During the welding process the tungsten should never touch the work piece. When this happens you will need to remove the tungsten and regrind the tip. Depending on the material being welded, TIG welding can be performed using either AC or DC current. Some of the advantages of this type of welding include strong high quality welds and many material options. One disadvantages of TIG welding is the speed is much slower compared to some of the other welding methods. <br /> <br /> <br /> Here is an example of TIG welding and some good basic information.<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IfJG4cMhIOc&amp;list=PLhEXQudI6XCS3Rev1aaEwy0n4-68YdNTe&amp;index=14&amp;t=0s}}<br /> <br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=RDCMUCTRI9Us8zLiywY29vsW3kKg&amp;v=tNYmo2_DI6c&amp;feature=emb_rel_end}}<br /> <br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KvI0177YgrA}}<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> <br /> [[Media:O359H MIL.pdf|TIG Welder User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> *Squarewave technology was developed by Miller Electric in 1976 to improve your weld quality and make TIG (tungsten inert gas) welding easier. Miller Squarewave technology provides arc stability when welding aluminum, prevents arc rectification and eliminates tungsten erosion.<br /> *CFH-Cubic Feet Per Hour<br /> <br /> *Balance control-The balance control is adjustable to provide additional oxide removal (more cleaning) or less cleaning based on the condition of the material being welded.<br /> <br /> *Syncro Start-This allows the choice of Soft, Standard or Hot TIG starts based on the application, lead lengths and tungsten size.<br /> <br /> *Digital welding meters-Display both amperage and voltage for viewing of the actual and preset values for greater accuracy and repeatability in your welding procedure.<br /> <br /> *Last procedure recall-Simplifies changing your Syncrowave back and forth from aluminum TIG to stainless TIG to Stick welding. One switch makes all the control panel changes.<br /> <br /> *Adaptive Hot Start-Stick welding features such as Adaptive Hot Start™ provide good arc strikes without sticking. Once welding, the DIG control makes dynamic adjustments to the welder to ensure smooth E7018 and deep penetration E6010.<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> <br /> ====Operation====<br /> Here are some general setup rules of thumb: <br /> *The CFH gas setting should be roughly 2x the weld cup size. If you were to use a #7 cup the gas flow should be set to 14 CFH.<br /> *The tungsten stick-out from the cup should be no more than the cup diameter. Using a #7 cup would allow for a maximum tungsten stick-out of 7/16&quot;<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> The demonstration consists of two parts. For the first part you will need to setup the welder and safely attempt to weld a bead. The second part will require you to show knowledge of safely using the grinder and successfully grind a point on a tungsten rod.<br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> # Place the fume hood over the area you will be welding <br /> # Select electrode that is adequate for your application of material<br /> # Grind electrode to a point. (This gives a smaller and more directed arc)<br /> # Insert the electrode into the collet of the torch<br /> # Attach ground clamp to table (ensure ground contact surface is clean)<br /> # Ensure the adjusting screw on the tank regulator is loose (Do not unscrew all the way)<br /> # Open cylinder valve all the way<br /> # Turn the adjusting screw (clockwise) to increase flow to 15 CFH. The gas will only flow after the pedal is depressed and will stop after the post-flow time has been reached. <br /> # Identify material type, and thickness that is going to be welded<br /> # Refer to TIG welding chart for specified adjustments, specific to your application<br /> # Clean material to remove any oxidizing and or oil residue<br /> # Turn on the welder and adjust----------<br /> # Hold the electrode in your dominant hand (ensure it can move freely)<br /> # Hold electrode about an 1/8 inch away from the metal<br /> # Using the foot pedal to control the voltage, start off with the foot pedal half way down to start a puddle on the material.<br /> # Once a puddle is started let off the foot pedal to maintain a steady puddle without burning through the material.<br /> # Once the puddle is formed, dab the filler rod into the puddle<br /> # Moving along the material, walk the electrode back and forth across the puddle while dabbing the filler into the pool<br /> <br /> # '''Shutting down:'''<br /> <br /> *Close gas cylinder valve<br /> *Back out adjusting screw on regulator (Do Not unscrew all the way)<br /> *Turn off the welder<br /> *Remove ground clamp<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete the &lt;strong&gt;Welding Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> <br /> *No arc or weak arc:<br /> **Check that the machine is powered on and set to the correct mode.<br /> **Inspect torch connections, cables, and work clamp for tightness and damage.<br /> **Verify correct electrode type, size, and that it’s sharpened properly.<br /> *Porosity in welds:<br /> **Ensure proper shielding gas flow and check for leaks in hoses or fittings.<br /> **Keep tungsten electrode clean and free of contamination.<br /> **Avoid drafts that disturb the shielding gas.<br /> *Tungsten sticking to workpiece:<br /> **Maintain correct arc length (keep tungsten slightly above the workpiece).<br /> **Check polarity settings and use proper tungsten type for material.<br /> *Overheating torch or cables:<br /> **Reduce amperage or duty cycle; allow cooling breaks.<br /> **Inspect cables and torch for damage or poor connections.<br /> *Inconsistent or wandering arc:<br /> **Check gas flow rate and nozzle cleanliness.<br /> **Ensure tungsten is properly sharpened and aligned.<br /> **Verify correct polarity and current settings.<br /> *Excessive spatter (rare in TIG but possible with AC on aluminum):<br /> **Check machine settings and electrode exposure.<br /> **Clean workpiece thoroughly before welding.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> The welding torch and cables should be inspected on a regular basis. Look for any signs of cracking or cuts in the cables.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |Check Argon Tank Pressure <br /> |Before Use<br /> |Student/Tech<br /> |-<br /> |Check Coolant Flow<br /> |Before Use<br /> |Student<br /> |-<br /> |Inspect collet &amp; Cup<br /> |Before Use<br /> |Student/Tech<br /> |}</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Sublimation_Printer&diff=11852 2025-08-15T19:49:00Z

<p>Edejong22: </p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=The Hub<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Sawgrass<br /> |Has model=SG400NA<br /> |Has serial number=R739C839500<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Is used in domain=Cloth<br /> |Has name=Sublimation Printer<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1317<br /> |Has icon=File:Dye Sub printer notype (1).png<br /> |Has icondesc=Table Saw icon<br /> |Has iconwname=File:table_saw_icon_name.png<br /> |Has image=File:Sawgrass-SG400.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=Sawgrass-SG400 Sublimation Printer<br /> |Has description=True<br /> |Has ace=Summer Martindale;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}<br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> Sublimation is a digital printing process that uses heat and pressure to embed ink into a fabric or surface to produce an image. It utilizes a special dye and a molecular bonding process to apply and permanently adhere HD images, graphics and photos to polymers and polyesters at a sub-surface level.<br /> <br /> Other printing processes utilize chemicals called binders to bond their inks to the surface of a product. Binders are present in the ink and/or paper (for transfer processes.) Over time, the binders will break down and the ink will crack, peel and fade. In contrast, because sublimation bonds at a sub-surface level rather than on top, it provides a high-quality image that won’t crack or peel. And in the case of apparel, it will not fade when washed. <br /> <br /> With sublimation, images can be applied to thousands of different products including mugs, signage, bags and apparel, and to many different materials including ceramics, wood, metal, polyester and glass.<br /> <br /> For fabrics, sublimation dye only adheres to polyester. Cotton/polyester blends are ok to use so long as the polyester content is at least 50%. Keep in mind that the sublimation dye will not bond with the cotton, so the resultant image will have a slightly more faded or &quot;vintage&quot; look when using cotton/polyester blends.<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> The user manual link below is technically for the SG500 and SG1000, but similar principles will apply.<br /> <br /> [[Media:Sawgrass-User-Guide-English.pdf|Sublimation Printer User Manual]]<br /> <br /> [https://www.sawgrassink.com/Sawgrass/media/Documents/Printers/Brochures/SG400-SG800-Brochure-NP-US.pdf SG400 Brochure]<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> * '''Transfer Paper -''' Paper that absorbs the ink from the printer and is used to transfer the ink to the garment.<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> <br /> The Sawgrass SG400 acts much like a typical ink printer. You will need to load the proper software and select the SG400 printer. The correct paper will also need to be loaded into the printer paper tray. One side of the paper is meant for printing while the other side is not meant for printing; double-check the paper orientation to avoid printing on the wrong side.<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> Demonstrate you can setup the software and printer. You will need to produce a transfer using the Sawgrass SG400.<br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Producing a transfer'''<br /> <br /> # Open the software you wish to print from (Adobe or Inkscape software). <br /> # Create or open your desired design. <br /> # Power on the SG400 printer and give it some time to power up. The printer can take several minutes to warm up. <br /> # Make sure the image is a mirrored (left/right) if you want to read the text on a surface or keep the image direction correct. <br /> # Make sure the image size is smaller than the size of paper you are printing on. The largest size paper is 8.5&quot; x 11.&quot; <br /> # You will need to select 'print', and make sure you are printing to the Sawgrass 400 printer. <br /> # The printer should start printing and produce a sheet of paper with your image on it. <br /> # You will need to setup the [[Heat Press|heat press]] to complete your image transfer.<br /> <br /> ==Safety==<br /> This is a fairly safe process. When using the heat press avoid making contact with the hot plate to prevent burns.<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete &lt;strong&gt;The Hub - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> <br /> Sawgrass printers are unique in the fact that they have an auto-maintenance program that ensures the printer is always ready to print without any quality issues. If you turn off the printer, the auto-maintenance program will not be able to operate, which could lead to printing issues.<br /> <br /> Banding is usually caused by a blockage in the print head preventing the ink from being properly dispersed to the paper. Perform a nozzle check to see if this is the case. If so, then you should perform a head cleaning to try to correct the problem. These functions can be accessed via the control panel on the printer or through Sawgrass Print Manager. Low ink levels can also cause banding. Always ensure that you are not low on ink. Learn more in our Knowledge Base, or contact Sawgrass Technical Support.<br /> <br /> Color management is an important aspect for all forms of digital printing. In terms of sublimation, there are several factors that can affect the color including the printer, the ink, the paper, and the substrates. Sawgrass created Sawgrass Print Manager to address these issues and provide tools to help ensure the accuracy of the color output. If you are having issues, contact Sawgrass Technical Support for assistance.<br /> <br /> It is possible to sublimate a print more than once, but every instance after the first time will be significantly faded. It is recommended that you only sublimate a print once.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> Keep the printer plugged in and clean. Do not unplug the printer as this could damage the printer by preventing the head cleaning process.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |Replace Ink Cartridge<br /> |As needed<br /> |Technician<br /> |}</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Spot_Welder&diff=11851 2025-08-15T19:48:26Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Troubleshooting */</p> <hr /> <div>[[File:Spot.jpg|thumb]]<br /> {{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=Welding Shop<br /> |Is used in domain=<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Miller<br /> |Has model=LMSW-52<br /> |Has serial number=MJ328801N<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File: Spot_welderIcon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=Reflow Oven Icon<br /> |Has image=File:protoflow.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=Protoflow Reflow Oven<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1281<br /> |Has group=Circuit Board Design<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}} <br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> * Wear gloves and welding helmet.<br /> * Don't have bare skin exposed.<br /> * Don't weld in wet gear or standing water.<br /> * Welded material will be hot.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> Resistance spot welding is a process in which contacting metal surface points are joined by the heat obtained from resistance to electric current. The Miller LMSW-52 Air-Cooled Spot Welder is a lightweight unit that is portable, easy to operate and excellent for welding mild, galvanized or stainless sheet materials.&lt;br /&gt;<br /> * LMSW-52 spot welder manual [https://www.millerwelds.com/-/media/e50208051cc3492c9016790b303abf4f.pdf]<br /> <br /> <br /> Here is an example of spot welding and some good basic information.<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pVsZrDf-R8}}<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> <br /> [[Media:Spot_Welder_Manual.pdf|Spot Welder User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> *Electrode Tips – The copper ends of the tongs that make contact with the workpiece to deliver welding current.<br /> *Arms / Handles – The insulated portions you hold; provide leverage to open/close the tongs.<br /> *Jaws – The part of the tongs where the electrode tips are mounted; may pivot to adjust pressure.<br /> *Adjustment Knob / Screw – Used to set electrode pressure for consistent welds.<br /> *Cable / Conductor – Heavy cable connecting the tongs to the welder to carry welding current.<br /> *Spring Mechanism – Internal spring that helps return the tongs to the open position when released.<br /> *Insulation / Grip – Protective covering to prevent electric shock and allow safe handling.<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> <br /> ====Operation====<br /> Here are some general setup rules of thumb: <br /> *The maximum weld capacity is 2 sheets of 16 gauge material.<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> For the demonstration you will need to perform a spot weld using two pieces of scrap material.<br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> # Ensure the material being welded should be clear of any oil or dust<br /> # Turn on the spot welder<br /> # Place the material being welded between the clamps.<br /> # Clamp down on the two pieces of material for approximately 2 seconds. The time required to weld may vary slightly depending on the material and thickness.<br /> # Grab workpiece with a set of pliers, and open the clamp.<br /> &lt;references /&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete the &lt;strong&gt;Welding Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> <br /> *No weld or weak weld:<br /> **Check electrode tips for wear, dirt, or oxidation; clean or replace as needed.<br /> **Verify proper electrode pressure; adjust using the adjustment knob/screw.<br /> **Ensure cables are securely connected and not damaged.<br /> *Sparks at handles / arcing:<br /> **Inspect insulation on handles and tongs; replace if cracked or damaged.<br /> **Confirm all connections are tight and corrosion-free.<br /> *Tongs won’t open/close smoothly:<br /> **Check spring mechanism for damage or debris; clean and lubricate lightly if needed.<br /> **Ensure pivot points are not seized or misaligned.<br /> *Overheating tongs:<br /> **Reduce duty cycle; allow tongs to cool between welds.<br /> **Check for proper current settings and electrode contact.<br /> *Uneven welds:<br /> **Inspect electrode tips for uneven wear; dress or replace as needed.<br /> **Confirm correct alignment of jaws and consistent pressure.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> The welding tips should be inspected and cleaned as needed.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |N/A<br /> |N/A<br /> |N/A</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Spot_Welder&diff=11850 2025-08-15T19:47:01Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Terminology */</p> <hr /> <div>[[File:Spot.jpg|thumb]]<br /> {{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=Welding Shop<br /> |Is used in domain=<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Miller<br /> |Has model=LMSW-52<br /> |Has serial number=MJ328801N<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File: Spot_welderIcon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=Reflow Oven Icon<br /> |Has image=File:protoflow.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=Protoflow Reflow Oven<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1281<br /> |Has group=Circuit Board Design<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}} <br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> * Wear gloves and welding helmet.<br /> * Don't have bare skin exposed.<br /> * Don't weld in wet gear or standing water.<br /> * Welded material will be hot.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> Resistance spot welding is a process in which contacting metal surface points are joined by the heat obtained from resistance to electric current. The Miller LMSW-52 Air-Cooled Spot Welder is a lightweight unit that is portable, easy to operate and excellent for welding mild, galvanized or stainless sheet materials.&lt;br /&gt;<br /> * LMSW-52 spot welder manual [https://www.millerwelds.com/-/media/e50208051cc3492c9016790b303abf4f.pdf]<br /> <br /> <br /> Here is an example of spot welding and some good basic information.<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pVsZrDf-R8}}<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> <br /> [[Media:Spot_Welder_Manual.pdf|Spot Welder User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> *Electrode Tips – The copper ends of the tongs that make contact with the workpiece to deliver welding current.<br /> *Arms / Handles – The insulated portions you hold; provide leverage to open/close the tongs.<br /> *Jaws – The part of the tongs where the electrode tips are mounted; may pivot to adjust pressure.<br /> *Adjustment Knob / Screw – Used to set electrode pressure for consistent welds.<br /> *Cable / Conductor – Heavy cable connecting the tongs to the welder to carry welding current.<br /> *Spring Mechanism – Internal spring that helps return the tongs to the open position when released.<br /> *Insulation / Grip – Protective covering to prevent electric shock and allow safe handling.<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> <br /> ====Operation====<br /> Here are some general setup rules of thumb: <br /> *The maximum weld capacity is 2 sheets of 16 gauge material.<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> For the demonstration you will need to perform a spot weld using two pieces of scrap material.<br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> # Ensure the material being welded should be clear of any oil or dust<br /> # Turn on the spot welder<br /> # Place the material being welded between the clamps.<br /> # Clamp down on the two pieces of material for approximately 2 seconds. The time required to weld may vary slightly depending on the material and thickness.<br /> # Grab workpiece with a set of pliers, and open the clamp.<br /> &lt;references /&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete the &lt;strong&gt;Welding Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> The welding tips should be inspected and cleaned as needed.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |N/A<br /> |N/A<br /> |N/A</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Spot_Welder&diff=11849 2025-08-15T19:45:34Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Specific Maintenance Tasks */</p> <hr /> <div>[[File:Spot.jpg|thumb]]<br /> {{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=Welding Shop<br /> |Is used in domain=<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Miller<br /> |Has model=LMSW-52<br /> |Has serial number=MJ328801N<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File: Spot_welderIcon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=Reflow Oven Icon<br /> |Has image=File:protoflow.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=Protoflow Reflow Oven<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1281<br /> |Has group=Circuit Board Design<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}} <br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> * Wear gloves and welding helmet.<br /> * Don't have bare skin exposed.<br /> * Don't weld in wet gear or standing water.<br /> * Welded material will be hot.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> Resistance spot welding is a process in which contacting metal surface points are joined by the heat obtained from resistance to electric current. The Miller LMSW-52 Air-Cooled Spot Welder is a lightweight unit that is portable, easy to operate and excellent for welding mild, galvanized or stainless sheet materials.&lt;br /&gt;<br /> * LMSW-52 spot welder manual [https://www.millerwelds.com/-/media/e50208051cc3492c9016790b303abf4f.pdf]<br /> <br /> <br /> Here is an example of spot welding and some good basic information.<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pVsZrDf-R8}}<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> <br /> [[Media:Spot_Welder_Manual.pdf|Spot Welder User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> *Tongs-<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> <br /> ====Operation====<br /> Here are some general setup rules of thumb: <br /> *The maximum weld capacity is 2 sheets of 16 gauge material.<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> For the demonstration you will need to perform a spot weld using two pieces of scrap material.<br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> # Ensure the material being welded should be clear of any oil or dust<br /> # Turn on the spot welder<br /> # Place the material being welded between the clamps.<br /> # Clamp down on the two pieces of material for approximately 2 seconds. The time required to weld may vary slightly depending on the material and thickness.<br /> # Grab workpiece with a set of pliers, and open the clamp.<br /> &lt;references /&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete the &lt;strong&gt;Welding Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> The welding tips should be inspected and cleaned as needed.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |N/A<br /> |N/A<br /> |N/A</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Slip_Roller&diff=11848 2025-08-15T19:43:17Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Operation */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is sheet metal equipment=True<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Baileigh<br /> |Has model=SR-5016M<br /> |Has serial number=142263020 <br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Is located in facility= Machine Shop<br /> |Is used in domain=Metal<br /> |Has function=Slip Roller<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1321<br /> |Has icon=File: Slip_rollerIcon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=Slip Roller icon<br /> |Has image=File:Slip_Roller.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=Baileigh Slip Roller<br /> |Has description=Baileigh Slip Roller<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}<br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> A slip roller is a machine used to roll sheet metal. The machine consists of 3 rollers that feed in the sheet metal and form a curve. The distance between the rollers is adjustable and therefore the radius is adjustable. In addition to rolling sheet metal, the roller in the shop includes wire grooves for bending solid rod. Due to the size of the rollers, the minimum forming diameter of the roller in the shop is 4.5&quot;<br /> <br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nr5xhpI4iL4&amp;feature=youtu.be}}<br /> <br /> * [https://www.baileigh.com/slip-roll-sr-5016m Product Page]<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> [[Media:SR-5016M 08-2020.pdf|Baileigh Slip Roller User Manual]]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Media:Baileigh Slip Roller.pdf|Baileigh Slip Roller Catalog]]<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> *Rollers - Cylindrical components that the sheet metal passes through to form curves or cylinders.<br /> <br /> *Adjusting Screws/Knobs - Controls that set the gap between the rollers to accommodate different material thicknesses.<br /> <br /> *Frame/Base - The main structure supporting the rollers and workpiece.<br /> <br /> *Crank Handle - Manual lever used to rotate the rollers and feed the material through the machine.<br /> <br /> *Material Feed Area - Space where the sheet metal is inserted before rolling.<br /> <br /> *Side Guides/End Stops - Components that help align the sheet metal for consistent rolling.<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> <br /> The Slip Roller is used to form curves, cylinders, and arcs from sheet metal. To operate, first adjust the roller gap to match the thickness of the material. Insert the sheet metal between the rollers and align it using the side guides if needed. Turn the crank handle to feed the material through the rollers, making multiple passes while gradually tightening the top roller to achieve the desired curvature. Continue until the sheet is bent to the required radius or cylinder shape. For best results, always make incremental adjustments and work slowly to avoid kinks or uneven rolling.<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> Demonstrate you can safely setup the slip roller and roll a piece of scrap material. If you roll a complete circle be very careful when you disengage the top roll and slip the material off the roller. Never try to force the roller back into position after disengaging it. You have lots of leverage when holding onto the end of the roll and will cause damage by forcing it back into position. If the roller will not easily move back into position have someone gently crank the rotation handle until the roller drops into place.<br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> <br /> #Adjust the radius by turning the knobs on the back of the machine. This adjusts the distance between the rollers.<br /> #Adjust the amount of pinch using the knobs on the front left of the machine for materials of different thickness. If the gap between the rollers is too far apart the material will slip on the rollers.<br /> #Begin by pulling the right side of the top roller out of its slot.<br /> #Insert your piece that you would like to roll between the rollers.<br /> #Re-secure the top roller inside of the slot prior to rolling.<br /> #Slowly rotate the handle until you have rolled to the desired radius. If the initial radius is not the desired radius, re-roll at a slightly tighter radius.<br /> #Unlock the top roller to slide your rolled metal off the end of roller.<br /> <br /> ==Safety==<br /> There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using the slip roll. <br /> *Never put your finger near the rollers as they could be sucked in and crushed.<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete the &lt;strong&gt;Machine Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> If you experience the material slipping in the roller you may need to apply more tension by adjusting the roller tension knobs.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> Keep the slip roller clean and keep the rolls oiled so they don't rust. There are several lubrication points that need to be checked by the tech.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |Lubricate mechanisms <br /> |Semester<br /> |Tech<br /> |-<br /> |Clean machine rolls<br /> |As Needed<br /> |Student<br /> |}</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Slip_Roller&diff=11847 2025-08-15T19:42:22Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Terminology */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is sheet metal equipment=True<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Baileigh<br /> |Has model=SR-5016M<br /> |Has serial number=142263020 <br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Is located in facility= Machine Shop<br /> |Is used in domain=Metal<br /> |Has function=Slip Roller<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1321<br /> |Has icon=File: Slip_rollerIcon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=Slip Roller icon<br /> |Has image=File:Slip_Roller.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=Baileigh Slip Roller<br /> |Has description=Baileigh Slip Roller<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}<br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> A slip roller is a machine used to roll sheet metal. The machine consists of 3 rollers that feed in the sheet metal and form a curve. The distance between the rollers is adjustable and therefore the radius is adjustable. In addition to rolling sheet metal, the roller in the shop includes wire grooves for bending solid rod. Due to the size of the rollers, the minimum forming diameter of the roller in the shop is 4.5&quot;<br /> <br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nr5xhpI4iL4&amp;feature=youtu.be}}<br /> <br /> * [https://www.baileigh.com/slip-roll-sr-5016m Product Page]<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> [[Media:SR-5016M 08-2020.pdf|Baileigh Slip Roller User Manual]]&lt;br&gt;<br /> [[Media:Baileigh Slip Roller.pdf|Baileigh Slip Roller Catalog]]<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> *Rollers - Cylindrical components that the sheet metal passes through to form curves or cylinders.<br /> <br /> *Adjusting Screws/Knobs - Controls that set the gap between the rollers to accommodate different material thicknesses.<br /> <br /> *Frame/Base - The main structure supporting the rollers and workpiece.<br /> <br /> *Crank Handle - Manual lever used to rotate the rollers and feed the material through the machine.<br /> <br /> *Material Feed Area - Space where the sheet metal is inserted before rolling.<br /> <br /> *Side Guides/End Stops - Components that help align the sheet metal for consistent rolling.<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> Demonstrate you can safely setup the slip roller and roll a piece of scrap material. If you roll a complete circle be very careful when you disengage the top roll and slip the material off the roller. Never try to force the roller back into position after disengaging it. You have lots of leverage when holding onto the end of the roll and will cause damage by forcing it back into position. If the roller will not easily move back into position have someone gently crank the rotation handle until the roller drops into place.<br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> <br /> #Adjust the radius by turning the knobs on the back of the machine. This adjusts the distance between the rollers.<br /> #Adjust the amount of pinch using the knobs on the front left of the machine for materials of different thickness. If the gap between the rollers is too far apart the material will slip on the rollers.<br /> #Begin by pulling the right side of the top roller out of its slot.<br /> #Insert your piece that you would like to roll between the rollers.<br /> #Re-secure the top roller inside of the slot prior to rolling.<br /> #Slowly rotate the handle until you have rolled to the desired radius. If the initial radius is not the desired radius, re-roll at a slightly tighter radius.<br /> #Unlock the top roller to slide your rolled metal off the end of roller.<br /> <br /> ==Safety==<br /> There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using the slip roll. <br /> *Never put your finger near the rollers as they could be sucked in and crushed.<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete the &lt;strong&gt;Machine Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> If you experience the material slipping in the roller you may need to apply more tension by adjusting the roller tension knobs.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> Keep the slip roller clean and keep the rolls oiled so they don't rust. There are several lubrication points that need to be checked by the tech.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |Lubricate mechanisms <br /> |Semester<br /> |Tech<br /> |-<br /> |Clean machine rolls<br /> |As Needed<br /> |Student<br /> |}</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Serger&diff=11846 2025-08-15T19:40:37Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Terminology */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=The Hub<br /> |Is used in domain=Cloth<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Janome<br /> |Has model=MyLock 634D<br /> |Has serial number=6E1013527<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:Serger_icon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has iconwname=<br /> |Has image=File:Serger_image3.png<br /> |Has imagedesc=Janome Mylock 634D<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1268<br /> |Has ace=Sara Wytsma;swytsma23@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}<br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> Here are some safety instructions for the {{PAGENAME}}. Remember... SAFETY FIRST!!!<br /> *'''Sharp Hazard''' – needles are very sharp and can pierce your skin. Turn off the serger when inserting/removing needles to avoid bumping the foot pedal and moving the needle assembly. Never place your fingers directly underneath the needle.<br /> *'''Crush Hazard''' – be aware of all moving parts and keep your fingers away from any pinch points.<br /> *'''Entanglement''' – ensure that loose clothing, long hair, or any other dangling/loose items do not become entangled in the machine. Hair that extends below the collar should be tied up.<br /> *'''Eye Injury''' – needles can break if they hit a solid object while sewing. The broken tip can fly off and become lodged in your eye. Wear safety glasses when using the serger.<br /> *Do not sew over pins. This can break or bend the needle.<br /> *Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.<br /> *Do not push or pull fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.<br /> *Ensure the needle you are using is undamaged.<br /> *Make sure the needle is installed correctly.<br /> *Verify that you are using the correct presser foot. When changing out the presser foot, manually check that the needle’s travel will clear the foot before using the foot pedal.<br /> *Do not run thick fabrics or many layers of fabric through the serger. Use the industrial sewing machine for these applications.<br /> *When you finish using the serger, disconnect the power cable from both the machine and the wall outlet/power strip. Coil the power cable neatly on the table.<br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> Sergers preform a type of stitch known as overlock stitching. An overlock stitch is a type of stitching that overcasts the edge of one or more pieces of fabric. Sergers also have the ability to trim the excess seam allowance as it is fed through the machine. This type of stitching is useful for edging, hemming, and seaming. This process will create a clean edge of your fabric that will not fray.<br /> <br /> The Janome MyLock 634D features 2 needles and a choice of 2, 3, or 4 thread overlocking stitching. The color-coded thread guiding makes threading simple and easy to follow. The MyLock 634D allows the user to easily switch from overlock stitching to rolled hemming without needing to change to needle plate. Some of the key features of the MyLock 634D are a tension release lever, easily accessible lower looper guides, changeable thread guide, easily retractable upper knife, adjustable foot pressure, and more.<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> <br /> [[Media:Inst-book-634d.pdf|Serger User Manual]]<br /> <br /> * [https://www.janome.com/machines/sergers/mylock-634d/ Product Home Page]<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> *Needle - The pointed metal component that pierces the fabric and carries thread through it to form stitches.<br /> *Spool - The cylindrical holder that contains the thread, supplying it to the machine during sewing.<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> <br /> All information on this specific machine can be found in the [https://www.janome.com/siteassets/support/manuals/sergers/inst-book-634d.pdf User Manual]<br /> <br /> A simple intro to serging:<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQww9QqVwOw}}<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> Demonstrate you can safely setup the serger. You will then proceed to edge a piece of scrap material.<br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> <br /> The Janome MyLock 634D is a multi-thread serger designed for overlocking, trimming, and finishing fabric edges in one step. To operate, start by threading the machine in the correct sequence (upper looper, lower looper, right needle, left needle), following the color-coded guides. Select the desired stitch type and adjust tension dials, stitch length, and differential feed settings based on fabric type. Place fabric under the presser foot, lower the foot lever, and gently guide the material while the machine trims and serges the edge. For best results, maintain a consistent feed and avoid pulling the fabric. Always test on a scrap piece before sewing the final garment.<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete &lt;strong&gt;The Hub - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> You may look in the user manual for troubleshooting instructions. But, if you are not confident in what you are doing, ask a supervisor for assistance.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> Open the covers and use a lint brush to clean out the lint. Do not try to blow the lint away; you will drive it deeper into the machine.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |Lubricate mechanisms <br /> |As Needed<br /> |Technician<br /> |-<br /> |Clean machine<br /> |When Done<br /> |User<br /> |-<br /> |Change the needle<br /> |As Needed<br /> |User<br /> |}</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Serger&diff=11845 2025-08-15T19:39:44Z

<p>Edejong22: /* General Procedure */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=The Hub<br /> |Is used in domain=Cloth<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Janome<br /> |Has model=MyLock 634D<br /> |Has serial number=6E1013527<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:Serger_icon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has iconwname=<br /> |Has image=File:Serger_image3.png<br /> |Has imagedesc=Janome Mylock 634D<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1268<br /> |Has ace=Sara Wytsma;swytsma23@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}<br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> Here are some safety instructions for the {{PAGENAME}}. Remember... SAFETY FIRST!!!<br /> *'''Sharp Hazard''' – needles are very sharp and can pierce your skin. Turn off the serger when inserting/removing needles to avoid bumping the foot pedal and moving the needle assembly. Never place your fingers directly underneath the needle.<br /> *'''Crush Hazard''' – be aware of all moving parts and keep your fingers away from any pinch points.<br /> *'''Entanglement''' – ensure that loose clothing, long hair, or any other dangling/loose items do not become entangled in the machine. Hair that extends below the collar should be tied up.<br /> *'''Eye Injury''' – needles can break if they hit a solid object while sewing. The broken tip can fly off and become lodged in your eye. Wear safety glasses when using the serger.<br /> *Do not sew over pins. This can break or bend the needle.<br /> *Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.<br /> *Do not push or pull fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.<br /> *Ensure the needle you are using is undamaged.<br /> *Make sure the needle is installed correctly.<br /> *Verify that you are using the correct presser foot. When changing out the presser foot, manually check that the needle’s travel will clear the foot before using the foot pedal.<br /> *Do not run thick fabrics or many layers of fabric through the serger. Use the industrial sewing machine for these applications.<br /> *When you finish using the serger, disconnect the power cable from both the machine and the wall outlet/power strip. Coil the power cable neatly on the table.<br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> Sergers preform a type of stitch known as overlock stitching. An overlock stitch is a type of stitching that overcasts the edge of one or more pieces of fabric. Sergers also have the ability to trim the excess seam allowance as it is fed through the machine. This type of stitching is useful for edging, hemming, and seaming. This process will create a clean edge of your fabric that will not fray.<br /> <br /> The Janome MyLock 634D features 2 needles and a choice of 2, 3, or 4 thread overlocking stitching. The color-coded thread guiding makes threading simple and easy to follow. The MyLock 634D allows the user to easily switch from overlock stitching to rolled hemming without needing to change to needle plate. Some of the key features of the MyLock 634D are a tension release lever, easily accessible lower looper guides, changeable thread guide, easily retractable upper knife, adjustable foot pressure, and more.<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> <br /> [[Media:Inst-book-634d.pdf|Serger User Manual]]<br /> <br /> * [https://www.janome.com/machines/sergers/mylock-634d/ Product Home Page]<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> * Needle - <br /> * Spool -<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> <br /> All information on this specific machine can be found in the [https://www.janome.com/siteassets/support/manuals/sergers/inst-book-634d.pdf User Manual]<br /> <br /> A simple intro to serging:<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQww9QqVwOw}}<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> Demonstrate you can safely setup the serger. You will then proceed to edge a piece of scrap material.<br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> <br /> The Janome MyLock 634D is a multi-thread serger designed for overlocking, trimming, and finishing fabric edges in one step. To operate, start by threading the machine in the correct sequence (upper looper, lower looper, right needle, left needle), following the color-coded guides. Select the desired stitch type and adjust tension dials, stitch length, and differential feed settings based on fabric type. Place fabric under the presser foot, lower the foot lever, and gently guide the material while the machine trims and serges the edge. For best results, maintain a consistent feed and avoid pulling the fabric. Always test on a scrap piece before sewing the final garment.<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete &lt;strong&gt;The Hub - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> You may look in the user manual for troubleshooting instructions. But, if you are not confident in what you are doing, ask a supervisor for assistance.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> Open the covers and use a lint brush to clean out the lint. Do not try to blow the lint away; you will drive it deeper into the machine.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |Lubricate mechanisms <br /> |As Needed<br /> |Technician<br /> |-<br /> |Clean machine<br /> |When Done<br /> |User<br /> |-<br /> |Change the needle<br /> |As Needed<br /> |User<br /> |}</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Scroll_Saw&diff=11844 2025-08-15T19:38:10Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Specific Maintenance Tasks */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility= Wood Shop<br /> |Is used in domain=Wood<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Excalibur<br /> |Has model=EX-21<br /> |Has serial number=EX2100170900211<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:Scroll Saw.png<br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has iconwname=<br /> |Has image=File:Excalibur EX21 Scroll Saw Image.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1197<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}} <br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;<br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using a scroll saw. <br /> * Keep your fingers and hands away from the blade and all moving parts.<br /> * If a blade breaks or gets pulled from the holder turn off the machine and tell the supervisor. <br /> * Always wear proper safety equipment to prevent injury. <br /> * Some woods can create toxic dust so be aware of what you are cutting. <br /> * Hold onto material firmly as the blade will try to lift the material off the table. <br /> * Use a brush to clear away chips and sawdust.<br /> * Allow the blade to do the cutting at its own speed. Don't force material into the blade.<br /> * Make sure the material hold down is correctly adjusted. The hold down should never impede the material movement and should barely sit above the material.<br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> [[File:Excalibur EX21 Scroll Saw Image.jpg|thumb|Excalibur EX-21 Scroll Saw]]<br /> The Excalibur EX-21 Scroll Saw is a small variable speed electric saw. It operates similarly to a band saw, but uses a reciprocating blade instead of a loop. This reciprocation means the blade does not cut continuously and only on the down stroke. The thinness of the blade allows it to be turned in the work piece at an almost 90 degree angle, which allows the blade to track along fine detail and sharp lines. The blade can also be removed on either the top or bottom of the reciprocating arm which allows the blade to be inserted inside of a work piece without needing an entry cut, the only thing necessary is a small hole drilled through the material. There is a blade guard and a dust blower nozzle that both need to be adjust before a piece can be cut into the material.<br /> <br /> The scroll saw is simple machine with an oscillating blade. The thin shallow blade has a very narrow kerf and allows the user to cut fine details and sharp corners. There are a variety of blades available for various types of materials and cuts. Some of the scroll saw uses include wood puzzle making, intarsia projects, and dovetail cutting. The blade can also be removed and inserted into a drilled hole to give access to the center of an island area in material to cutout the center of an &quot;O&quot; for example. A paper template with a design can be glued onto the top of a work piece and traced. <br /> <br /> <br /> Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TU3V3MdkaJg}}<br /> <br /> == Documentation ==<br /> <br /> [[Media:5da1c223-3df7-4236-8b34-34eb1641764a.pdf|Scroll Saw User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> * Material hold down - Adjustable metal bar that sits above work piece used to help keep material from lifting off the table.<br /> * Kerf - The material removed by the width of the blade.<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> <br /> The scroll saw has an oscillating blade with a variable speed control. The thin narrow blade allows you to make tight turns and produce very detailed cuts.<br /> <br /> The cutting angle of the scroll saw can be changed by doing the following:<br /> <br /> 1. Release the locking lever by rotating it counter-clockwise.<br /> <br /> 2. Turn the tilting handle left or right as desired.<br /> <br /> 3. Use the spring loaded indexing pin for common angles.<br /> <br /> 4. Tighten the locking lever.<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> Demonstrate you can safely setup and operate the scroll saw. You will sketch a letter on a piece of scrap using a pen or pencil. You will follow the lines with the blade and cut out the letter. Keep your fingers away from the blade.<br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> <br /> 1. Obtain a piece of wood roughly 4&quot; x 4&quot;. If the work piece is too small it will be difficult to hold onto. <br /> <br /> 2. Using a pencil or pen sketch a letter without a isolated center.<br /> <br /> 3. Make sure to tension the blade by flipping the blade tension lever. If the blade is not tensioned properly the blade cut will tend to drift and will make it difficult to follow the cut lines. <br /> <br /> 4. Adjust the height of the hold down and blade guard for the thickness of material you are using.<br /> <br /> 5. Make sure the air blow-off nozzle is pointing at location in front of the blade. This will remove dust from the cut lines and make it easier to follow your lines. <br /> <br /> 6. Make sure the material is clear of the blade and turn on the power switch. <br /> <br /> 7. Using the blade speed adjustment knob you can set the blade strokes per minute. The EX-21 is capable of producing 400 to 1550 strokes per minute. Normally harder/thicker material will require a slower blade speed. Set the blade around 800 to start with. If you notice burn marks slow down the speed.<br /> <br /> 8. Gently feed the material into the blade while aligning your marks with the blade. Slowly follow the line with the blade and cutout around the letter. <br /> <br /> 9. Adjust the blade oscillation speed as needed. If the material is showing burn marks you need to slow down the speed. <br /> <br /> 10. When you finish cutting out the letter turn off the power switch. <br /> <br /> 11. Detention the blade by flipping the lever above the blade. <br /> <br /> 12. Reset the space.<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete the &lt;strong&gt;Wood Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> If the blade pulls out of the holder, stop the machine and contact the supervisor. Over tightening the blade holder will damage the threads.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> There are several items on the machine that will need attention over time. <br /> * Every 10-15 hours of use, the blade tension lever should be lubricated.<br /> * The blade may need to be squared up to the table if it gets out of adjustment.<br /> * The upper arm adjustment screw will need to be adjusted if the upper arm will not stay in the upright position. <br /> * If the blade slips in the holder frequently it is time to change the blade clamp thumb screw.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |N/A<br /> |N/A<br /> |N/A<br /> |}</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Ring_Roller&diff=11843 2025-08-15T19:37:02Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Troubleshooting */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is sheet metal equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=Machine Shop<br /> |Is used in domain=Metal<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Baileigh Industrial<br /> |Has model=R-M5<br /> |Has serial number=US14464115<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has function=Ring Roller<br /> |Has icon=File: Ring_rollerIcon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=Ring Roller icon<br /> |Has image=File:Ring_Roller.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=Baileigh Ring Roller<br /> |Has description=Baileigh Ring Roller<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1319<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|275px|thumb|upright=1.0|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}<br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> Here are some safety instructions for the {{PAGENAME}}. Remember... SAFETY FIRST!!!<br /> * Always be aware of the position of the clamp handle and the counterweight. They are heavy and can swing back suddenly causing serious body or head injuries. <br /> * Keep hands and fingers away from the rollers when the machine is in operation. <br /> * Keep hands and fingers clear of any gears or mechanisms. Make sure guard is in place before operating machine. <br /> * Keep hands and fingers from between the roller and die when bending materials to avoid possible injury.<br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> A ring roller is a machine used to roll metal into a ring by forcing the material through rollers, also called dies. The rollers can be adjusted to change the formed radius. The maximum mild steel machine capacity is 1/4&quot; x 1&quot; flat bar or 1/2&quot; round rod. The minimum diameter you can form is 2.75&quot; <br /> <br /> <br /> Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wiVWrE1OMJ8}}<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> *Dies - Round pieces of steel used to guide the material as its shaped. <br /> <br /> [[Media:R-M5_07-2019.pdf|Ring Roller User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> <br /> The Ring Roller is a manual roll bender used to form rings, curves, and arcs from flat bar, round bar, or tubing. Operation involves selecting the correct roller set for the material, placing the workpiece between the rollers, and adjusting the top roller downward to apply bending pressure. The operator then turns the crank handle to feed the material through the rollers, gradually tightening the top roller in small increments until the desired radius or ring diameter is achieved.<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> Demonstrate you can safely setup the Ring Roller. You will then proceed to cut a 5&quot; long piece of 1/4&quot; steel rod. Roll this material into the smallest radius possible. When rolling the material remember to keep your fingers away from the rollers to keep from smashing your fingers.<br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> <br /> #Adjust the knob on the right to adjust the radius, loosen the handle on the left if it restricting you from adjusting the right one.<br /> #Make sure both knobs are secure and tightened before rolling, always start by rolling the largest radius, and work your way up from there.<br /> #Insert the bar between the rollers.<br /> #Turn the crank to roll the metal bar or rod.<br /> #Start with a large radius and continue to make the radius smaller every time you roll. If you attempt to roll a small radius all at once, the rod may make a corkscrew shape instead of a circle.<br /> #You have completed the roll when the two ends overlap each other by a couple of inches to account for the ends of the bar or rod that stay straight.<br /> <br /> ==Reset the Space==<br /> [[File:Reset The Space HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> Here is how you can reset the space for the {{PAGENAME}}. Always reset the space!!!<br /> * Release the pinch roll. <br /> * Remove the material.<br /> * Return all unused stock.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete the &lt;strong&gt;Machine Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> <br /> *Material slipping - Tighten the top roller adjustment or use a roller set that matches the material profile.<br /> *Uneven bend - Ensure material is fed straight and apply consistent pressure throughout the bend.<br /> *Material kinks - Reduce roller gap increments and make multiple passes instead of one heavy pass.<br /> *Difficulty turning crank - Check for roller lubrication and remove any debris or burrs from rollers.<br /> *Roller wear or damage - Inspect for flat spots or cracks; replace rollers if necessary.<br /> *Inconsistent ring size - Verify roller settings remain unchanged during bending and measure frequently.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> The only things that need to be done to maintain the Ring Roller are general cleaning and periodic lubrication. For details on the lubrication process see the user manual.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |Lubricate gears<br /> |Monthly<br /> |Technician<br /> |-<br /> |Apply rust inhibitive lubricant<br /> |As needed<br /> |Technician<br /> |}</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Ring_Roller&diff=11842 2025-08-15T19:36:34Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Troubleshooting */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is sheet metal equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=Machine Shop<br /> |Is used in domain=Metal<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Baileigh Industrial<br /> |Has model=R-M5<br /> |Has serial number=US14464115<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has function=Ring Roller<br /> |Has icon=File: Ring_rollerIcon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=Ring Roller icon<br /> |Has image=File:Ring_Roller.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=Baileigh Ring Roller<br /> |Has description=Baileigh Ring Roller<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1319<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|275px|thumb|upright=1.0|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}<br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> Here are some safety instructions for the {{PAGENAME}}. Remember... SAFETY FIRST!!!<br /> * Always be aware of the position of the clamp handle and the counterweight. They are heavy and can swing back suddenly causing serious body or head injuries. <br /> * Keep hands and fingers away from the rollers when the machine is in operation. <br /> * Keep hands and fingers clear of any gears or mechanisms. Make sure guard is in place before operating machine. <br /> * Keep hands and fingers from between the roller and die when bending materials to avoid possible injury.<br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> A ring roller is a machine used to roll metal into a ring by forcing the material through rollers, also called dies. The rollers can be adjusted to change the formed radius. The maximum mild steel machine capacity is 1/4&quot; x 1&quot; flat bar or 1/2&quot; round rod. The minimum diameter you can form is 2.75&quot; <br /> <br /> <br /> Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wiVWrE1OMJ8}}<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> *Dies - Round pieces of steel used to guide the material as its shaped. <br /> <br /> [[Media:R-M5_07-2019.pdf|Ring Roller User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> <br /> The Ring Roller is a manual roll bender used to form rings, curves, and arcs from flat bar, round bar, or tubing. Operation involves selecting the correct roller set for the material, placing the workpiece between the rollers, and adjusting the top roller downward to apply bending pressure. The operator then turns the crank handle to feed the material through the rollers, gradually tightening the top roller in small increments until the desired radius or ring diameter is achieved.<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> Demonstrate you can safely setup the Ring Roller. You will then proceed to cut a 5&quot; long piece of 1/4&quot; steel rod. Roll this material into the smallest radius possible. When rolling the material remember to keep your fingers away from the rollers to keep from smashing your fingers.<br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> <br /> #Adjust the knob on the right to adjust the radius, loosen the handle on the left if it restricting you from adjusting the right one.<br /> #Make sure both knobs are secure and tightened before rolling, always start by rolling the largest radius, and work your way up from there.<br /> #Insert the bar between the rollers.<br /> #Turn the crank to roll the metal bar or rod.<br /> #Start with a large radius and continue to make the radius smaller every time you roll. If you attempt to roll a small radius all at once, the rod may make a corkscrew shape instead of a circle.<br /> #You have completed the roll when the two ends overlap each other by a couple of inches to account for the ends of the bar or rod that stay straight.<br /> <br /> ==Reset the Space==<br /> [[File:Reset The Space HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> Here is how you can reset the space for the {{PAGENAME}}. Always reset the space!!!<br /> * Release the pinch roll. <br /> * Remove the material.<br /> * Return all unused stock.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete the &lt;strong&gt;Machine Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> <br /> *Material slipping – Tighten the top roller adjustment or use a roller set that matches the material profile.<br /> *Uneven bend – Ensure material is fed straight and apply consistent pressure throughout the bend.<br /> *Material kinks – Reduce roller gap increments and make multiple passes instead of one heavy pass.<br /> *Difficulty turning crank – Check for roller lubrication and remove any debris or burrs from rollers.<br /> *Roller wear or damage – Inspect for flat spots or cracks; replace rollers if necessary.<br /> *Inconsistent ring size – Verify roller settings remain unchanged during bending and measure frequently.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> The only things that need to be done to maintain the Ring Roller are general cleaning and periodic lubrication. For details on the lubrication process see the user manual.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |Lubricate gears<br /> |Monthly<br /> |Technician<br /> |-<br /> |Apply rust inhibitive lubricant<br /> |As needed<br /> |Technician<br /> |}</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Ring_Roller&diff=11841 2025-08-15T19:35:53Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Operation */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is sheet metal equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=Machine Shop<br /> |Is used in domain=Metal<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Baileigh Industrial<br /> |Has model=R-M5<br /> |Has serial number=US14464115<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has function=Ring Roller<br /> |Has icon=File: Ring_rollerIcon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=Ring Roller icon<br /> |Has image=File:Ring_Roller.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=Baileigh Ring Roller<br /> |Has description=Baileigh Ring Roller<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1319<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|275px|thumb|upright=1.0|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}<br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> Here are some safety instructions for the {{PAGENAME}}. Remember... SAFETY FIRST!!!<br /> * Always be aware of the position of the clamp handle and the counterweight. They are heavy and can swing back suddenly causing serious body or head injuries. <br /> * Keep hands and fingers away from the rollers when the machine is in operation. <br /> * Keep hands and fingers clear of any gears or mechanisms. Make sure guard is in place before operating machine. <br /> * Keep hands and fingers from between the roller and die when bending materials to avoid possible injury.<br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> A ring roller is a machine used to roll metal into a ring by forcing the material through rollers, also called dies. The rollers can be adjusted to change the formed radius. The maximum mild steel machine capacity is 1/4&quot; x 1&quot; flat bar or 1/2&quot; round rod. The minimum diameter you can form is 2.75&quot; <br /> <br /> <br /> Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wiVWrE1OMJ8}}<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> *Dies - Round pieces of steel used to guide the material as its shaped. <br /> <br /> [[Media:R-M5_07-2019.pdf|Ring Roller User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> <br /> The Ring Roller is a manual roll bender used to form rings, curves, and arcs from flat bar, round bar, or tubing. Operation involves selecting the correct roller set for the material, placing the workpiece between the rollers, and adjusting the top roller downward to apply bending pressure. The operator then turns the crank handle to feed the material through the rollers, gradually tightening the top roller in small increments until the desired radius or ring diameter is achieved.<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> Demonstrate you can safely setup the Ring Roller. You will then proceed to cut a 5&quot; long piece of 1/4&quot; steel rod. Roll this material into the smallest radius possible. When rolling the material remember to keep your fingers away from the rollers to keep from smashing your fingers.<br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> <br /> #Adjust the knob on the right to adjust the radius, loosen the handle on the left if it restricting you from adjusting the right one.<br /> #Make sure both knobs are secure and tightened before rolling, always start by rolling the largest radius, and work your way up from there.<br /> #Insert the bar between the rollers.<br /> #Turn the crank to roll the metal bar or rod.<br /> #Start with a large radius and continue to make the radius smaller every time you roll. If you attempt to roll a small radius all at once, the rod may make a corkscrew shape instead of a circle.<br /> #You have completed the roll when the two ends overlap each other by a couple of inches to account for the ends of the bar or rod that stay straight.<br /> <br /> ==Reset the Space==<br /> [[File:Reset The Space HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> Here is how you can reset the space for the {{PAGENAME}}. Always reset the space!!!<br /> * Release the pinch roll. <br /> * Remove the material.<br /> * Return all unused stock.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete the &lt;strong&gt;Machine Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> The only things that need to be done to maintain the Ring Roller are general cleaning and periodic lubrication. For details on the lubrication process see the user manual.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |Lubricate gears<br /> |Monthly<br /> |Technician<br /> |-<br /> |Apply rust inhibitive lubricant<br /> |As needed<br /> |Technician<br /> |}</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Plasma_Cutter&diff=11840 2025-08-15T19:33:09Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Specific Maintenance Tasks */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=Welding Shop<br /> |Is used in domain=<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Miller<br /> |Has model=Spectrum 875<br /> |Has serial number=MJ324002P<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:Plasma cutter.png <br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has iconwname=<br /> |Has image=File:plas.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1285<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}<br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> Here are some safety instructions for the {{PAGENAME}}. Remember... SAFETY FIRST!!!<br /> * Only cut steel and aluminum.<br /> * Never cut any coated materials<br /> * Don't attempt to cut with the compressed air off<br /> * Make sure the vent hood is on and placed near your working area. This will help evacuate the smoke. <br /> * Arc rays can burn your eyes and skin. Wear a welding helmet and there should be no bare skin exposed.<br /> * Never walk on the hoses or ground cable as this could cause damage to the machine.<br /> * Never pull the trigger on the torch unless you are cutting material as this will reduce the life of the nozzle and electrode.<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> The plasma cutter is a useful and time saving tool. It uses a plasma arc and compressed air to blow away the molten metal in its path. This machine will cut up to 7/8&quot; mild steel at 10 inches/minute and can roughly sever up to 1-1/4&quot; plate. The pierce capacity is 7/16&quot; so you will need to edge start when cutting thicker material. The torch is hand controlled so you can cut many types of designs. You can use a straight edge or material as a guide to cut various shapes and lines. Be aware that material can get very hot while cutting. Remember to keep body parts away from the cutting portion of the torch to prevent a serious accident. If your shoes have a mesh on top, there is a chance hot sparks and molten metal may burn through. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Here is an example of plasma cutting.<br /> <br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ik4qJDkFyPw}}<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> *Duty Cycle- This is a percentage of a 10 minute cycle that the machine can be running without overheating at 104 degrees F. Running at 60 amps our machine has a duty cycle of 40%. This allows for 4 minutes of cutting and 6 minutes of cool down.<br /> *Edge Start- Starting the arc at the edge of the material rather than in the middle. <br /> *Pierce- The ability of the torch to blow all the way through the material at the start of a cut. <br /> *Gouge- To remove material without cutting all the way through.<br /> *Trigger Safety Lock- When operating the start trigger on the plasma torch you will need to flip back the safety lock back before pulling the trigger. <br /> <br /> [[Media:O242880c mil.pdf|Plasma Cutter User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> When operating the plasma cutter be aware of what you are attempting to do and listen to the machine. If you notice a sputtering or hissing noise it could be caused by moisture in the line. When you are piercing thin materials you should hold the torch 90 degrees to the metal. When gouge cutting tilt the torch head at a 45 degree angle to the work piece. Maintain the angle while cutting. <br /> Controls:<br /> <br /> [[File:Plasma Control.JPG|none|thumb|600x600px]]<br /> <br /> '''Material Settings:'''<br /> [[File:Plasma Cutting Settings.JPG |none|thumb|600x600px]]<br /> <br /> '''Shield Settings:'''<br /> [[File:Shield_Settings.JPG |none|thumb|600x600px]]<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> For the demonstration you will need to show that you can safely setup and operate the plasma cutter. You will need to mark a piece of scrap material and cut along the line using a guide or free handing it.<br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> # Place the fume hood over the area you will be welding to help remove fumes.<br /> # Make sure power and the compressed air line is connected.<br /> # Attach the ground clamp to the fixed work piece. The surface should be clean and paint free for a good connection. Keep the clamp close to the cut but out of the way. <br /> # Put on the gloves, jacket, and helmet. You should have no bare skin exposed.<br /> # check the setting on your helmet(see chart for settings).<br /> # Turn on the plasma cutter power switch.<br /> # Measure thickness of material being cut and refer to chart for current setting on the machine.<br /> # Set the current on the plasma cutter.<br /> # Place the drag shield on the edge of the base metal, or hold ⅛ inch off the surface. Direct the arc straight down.<br /> # Raise the trigger lock and press the trigger, this will engage the pilot arc. If you don't lift the lock the trigger can't be pressed.<br /> # Once the cutting starts, begin to slowly move the torch across the metal. The chart shows an approximate inches/minute setting per material thickness.<br /> # Adjust your speed so the sparks go thru the metal and out the bottom of the cut. Cutting too fast could prevent the cut from going all the way through in some areas. <br /> # At the end of the cut, angle the torch slightly towards the final edge or pause briefly before releasing the trigger as this will give you a complete cut. <br /> # Turn off machine.<br /> # Disconnect the compressed air line.<br /> # Disconnect the ground clamp.<br /> # Reset the space!<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete the &lt;strong&gt;Welding Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> *If the temperature status light turns on most likely you have exceeded the duty cycle of the machine. You will need to wait 15 minutes for the machine to cool down.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> *The machine contains an internal air filter that should be changed as needed by the technician.<br /> *The cup and torch tip needs to be inspected and replaced by the technician as needed.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |N/A<br /> |N/A<br /> |N/A</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Pedestal_Grinder&diff=11839 2025-08-15T19:31:36Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Troubleshooting */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=Welding Shop<br /> |Is used in domain=<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make= Baldor<br /> |Has model=332B<br /> |Has serial number=W0404<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:Pedestal_grinderIcon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has iconwname=<br /> |Has image=File:298.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=The Baldor Pedestal Grinder<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1274<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}<br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> * Ensure that you are wearing the popper attire for grinding<br /> ** Sleeves rolled up<br /> ** Hoodie draw strings tucked in<br /> ** Safety glasses<br /> ** Face shield<br /> ** NO gloves (gloves = bye bye fingers)<br /> ** Always follow the general shop dress code (closed toed shoes, hair above collar, no dangles, etc.)<br /> It is ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL that you do NOT have ANY DANGLING items when using this machine. It will eat them and the things they are attached to (i.e. you).<br /> * When grinding always keep the material flat on the tool rest. If you do need to grind an edge that cannot be accessed while the tool is flat on the tool rest, use a hand grinder or get a shop supervisor to help you.<br /> * Don't let your hands or fingers make contact with the spinning wheels. <br /> * Don't use this tool to grind a small part.<br /> * Parts can get very HOT while grinding so be patient and take short brakes between grinds.<br /> * Never attempt to grind aluminum on a grinder setup for steel. This could cause a grinding wheel to explode.<br /> * Never attempt to use a grinding wheel that has been cracked, chipped, or damaged.<br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> A pedestal grinder is a type of grinding machine used to drive abrasive wheels. This type of grinder is mounted on a pedestal, which may be bolted to the floor or may sit on rubber feet. <br /> <br /> Here is an example of a grinder being used.<br /> <br /> <br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUK7LNK9jIw Video Demonstration}}<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> *Wheel Guard - The shroud around the wheel.<br /> *Spark Guard - The adjustable metal slider located near the top of the wheel guard. <br /> *Tool Rest - An adjustable piece of metal that serves several purposes. The rest helps prevents the workpiece from getting sucked into the wheel and also can be used to support the work. <br /> <br /> [[Media:MN903.pdf|Pedestal Grinder User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> <br /> There is a grinding wheel captivated on both sides of the motor. The wheel is made up of abrasive material. As you press material up against the wheel small amounts of material get removed and begin to cut away the metal surface. The wheels spins at 3600 RPM so remember to always work on the lower portion of the wheel and never hold any parts so the edges can catch on the wheel. Never wear gloves while using rotating equipment.<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> You will need to demonstration how to safely grind a piece of scrap steel.<br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> <br /> # Ensure that the pedestal grinder is stable<br /> # Ensure that all the guards are in place before turning on<br /> # Check to see if the tool rest is within 1/16&quot; of the grind wheel. If you are unsure if it is within 1/16&quot; of the wheel, adjust it as close to the wheel as you can.<br /> # Make sure that the wheel turns freely before using<br /> # Turning on the wheel, stand to the side of the machine and wait for it to come to full speed<br /> # Bring work into contact with the grinding wheel slowly and smoothly, without bumping<br /> # When grinding move back and forth across the face of the wheel. This prevents even wear on the wheel and prevents grooves from forming in your work piece<br /> # Once done using, turn off the grinder and wait for it to come to a complete stop<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete the &lt;strong&gt;Welding Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> <br /> *Grinder will not start - Check power supply, plug, and switch; inspect for blown fuses or tripped breakers.<br /> *Motor hums but wheel does not turn - Inspect for jammed wheel, loose drive components, or capacitor failure.<br /> *Excessive vibration - Verify wheel balance, check for worn bearings, and ensure grinder is securely bolted to pedestal.<br /> *Wheel wobbles - Check wheel flanges, spindle threads, and wheel seating; replace damaged wheels.<br /> *Overheating motor - Reduce load, check ventilation, and inspect for blocked air passages or over-tensioned bearings.<br /> *Poor grinding performance - Dress the wheel, verify correct wheel type for material, and replace if worn or glazed.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> The gaps between the wheel and grinding fixture rests should be no more than a 1/16&quot; inch. As the wheel wears the technician will need to adjust the rests.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |True Wheel<br /> |Technician<br /> |As needed<br /> |}</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Oscillating_Spindle_Sander&diff=11838 2025-08-15T19:29:27Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Specific Maintenance Tasks */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=Wood Shop<br /> |Is used in domain=Wood<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Grizzly Industrial<br /> |Has model=G1071<br /> |Has serial number=1709690<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:Spindle Sander.png<br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has iconwname=<br /> |Has image=File:Spindle Sander.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=Oscillating Spindle Sander<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1204<br /> |Has ace=Needed;makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}<br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using a spindle sander. <br /> * Never make contact with the rotating spindle. The sand paper is very aggressive and could cause serious injury. <br /> * The spindle is rotating at a high rate of speed and can grab your work piece. <br /> * Hold onto material firmly and keep it against the table. This will help prevent the material from getting pulled out of your hands. If material catches on the spindle it can starts rotating quickly and create a dangerous situation.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> The Grizzly vertical spindle sander is for sanding curved surfaces square to the table. The machine contains a 1HP motor and has 10 different sanding spindles ranging from 1/4&quot; to 4&quot; in diameter. The cast iron table has an opening that provides clearance for the spindles to oscillate up and down. The oscillating action will give you a smooth sanded surface at 1725 RPM. The 4&quot; dust port connects easily to any dust collector. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Exi3raTmaNQ}}<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> *'''Table Insert-''' A metal plate that covers the opening between the spindle and table.<br /> *'''Sanding Spindle-''' A metal shaft with a rubber section that supports a sand paper sleeve. These come in a variety of sizes. <br /> <br /> [[Media:G1071_m.pdf|Oscillating Spindle Sander User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> <br /> The spindle sander is normally used for sanding inside corners. There are various spindles that range from 1/4&quot; to 4&quot;. If you need to change out the spindle ask the supervisor on shift for assistance. Make sure the spindle taper is clean before installing a new spindle. Only hand tighten the spindles during installation so they can be removed. The spindle also oscillates up and down as it rotates to produce a smooth finish. The machine has an on/off power switch located on the control panel. Make sure the material you are cutting is free of all foreign objects. Do not sand materials that may have nails or screws as they will damage the drum and may cause injury to you. Also, if the material contains a loose knot it can break free and create a safety hazard. Do not sand plastics, rubber, metal or any other materials other than natural woods. <br /> <br /> If your material looks good, the next step is to make sure you have the appropriate spindle installed. You will also want to hook up the adjacent dust collector to the rear of the machine, make sure it is plugged in, and turned on. The dust collector must be used with the sander to help keep the dust out of the air. As you sand, it is imperative that you keep the material firmly against the table and gently push the material into the spindle to make the surface perpendicular to the table. Hold firmly onto the material as it could get pulled out of your hands. If you are sanding the inside of a circle and the material pulls out of your hands do not attempt to grab the spinning part. If you can safely reach the power switch shut off the machine and wait for the part to stop moving. <br /> <br /> After the sander is set up you are ready to work. Turn on the sander and gently push the material into the drum, making sure to keep your hands a safe distance from the spindle. Do not force material into the drum.<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> Demonstrate you can safely setup the spindle sander and create a smooth radius. Remember to use the appropriate drum size. You will need to draw a guide line to follow.<br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> <br /> '''Inside Radius'''<br /> <br /> 1. Ensure that the material you are sanding is at least 4&quot; long and no nails or foreign objects. <br /> <br /> 2. Sketch a radius onto your material using pencil. <br /> <br /> 3. Make sure the spindle in the machine fits the radius you have drawn. If the spindle needs to be changed ask the supervisor on shift for help. <br /> <br /> 4. Connect the dust collector to the port on the back of the machine.<br /> <br /> 5. Turn on the power switch on the front of the sander and the dust collector. Make sure nothing is making contact with sanding drum. <br /> <br /> 7. Gently feed the material into the sanding drum while firmly holding onto the material. Keep your fingers away from the spinning drum. <br /> <br /> 8. Carefully remove material as you keep an eye on the reference line. Slowly remove material up to the line. <br /> <br /> 9. When all of the material has been removed take the work piece off the table. <br /> <br /> 10. Turn off the power switch for the sander and the dust collector. <br /> <br /> 11. Make sure to reset the space.<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete the &lt;strong&gt;Wood Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> *As sanding sleeves are used they will &quot;gum up&quot; with saw dust. If not removed, the saw dust will harden and reduce the life of the sanding sleeve. As needed, a abrasive cleaner should be used on the sleeves.<br /> *The taper end of the sanding spindles should be lubricated with a light oil.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |N/A<br /> |N/A<br /> |N/A<br /> |}</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Jointer&diff=11837 2025-08-15T19:27:44Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Specific Maintenance Tasks */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility= Wood Shop<br /> |Is used in domain=Wood<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Powermatic<br /> |Has model=54HH<br /> |Has serial number=170554HH3289<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:jointer_icon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=Jointer icon<br /> |Has iconwname=File:jointer_icon_name.png<br /> |Has image=File:jointer.png<br /> |Has imagedesc=Powermatic Jointer<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1219<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}<br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using a jointer. <br /> * The cutters are very sharp and spin very fast. Keep your fingers away from the cutter head even when its not spinning. Use a push pad/stick to keep your fingers a safe distance from the cutters. <br /> * Never let your thumb or fingers hang down near the table when pushing a board through the machine. <br /> * Hold onto material firmly and keep it against the table and fence to help prevent material kicking back. If material catches on the blade the material can shoot back at you and this is called a kickback. <br /> * Use a hold down or push block when surfacing stock less than 12&quot; long, 3&quot; wide, or 3&quot; thick. <br /> * Never feed material the same direction as the cutter rotation. <br /> * Never try to cut across grain as this could cause a kickback.<br /> * Don't exceed a 1/16&quot; cut per pass as too heavy of a cut can try to push material back at you and overload the machine. <br /> * Make sure material cut is free of all metal and loose Knots to prevent damage to you and the machine. <br /> * Never apply downward pressure to the material directly over the cutter head. This could cause the board to tip and or put your hand/fingers at risk. <br /> This is a video showing how to safely use the jointer: <br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3d1qBxcnI0E<br /> }}<br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> The jointer's function is to produce a flat surface along the length of a board that is no more than 6&quot; in width. The jointer cannot accommodate boards wider than 6&quot;. When gluing board edges together they need to be flat and fit together without gaps. A jointer cuts with a helical cutter-head made up of many tiny carbide cutters wrapped around a rotating drum. Some of the cheaper and older machines use blades rather than carbide inserts to cut away material. <br /> <br /> Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.<br /> <br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e1O12_hRRAU}}<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> [[File:BoardWarp.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Be on the lookout for these types of warping in your workpiece.]]<br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> * Cutter Head - Drum of carbide inserts that performs the cutting action. <br /> * Fence - Metal back-stop that is used to guide and control the angle of material being cut.<br /> <br /> &lt;span class=&quot;ext-link&quot;&gt;[[Media:1791279DXK man EN.pdf|Jointer User Manual]]&lt;/span&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> [[File:Jointer Graphic.png|800px|thumbnail|right]]<br /> <br /> The core of jointer consists of a round cutter head with many carbide cutters. The cutter head is located between the in-feed and out-feed table. The front table can be adjusted up and down to control the amount of material that is exposed to the cutter head. The lower the table the more material per pass will be removed. Don't try to adjust the out-feed table as the height has been set to support the material after it has been ran past the cutter head. Misalignment of the cutter head to out-feed table will create uneven cuts or jam the material on out-feed. There are a few other things to keep in mind regarding your material as well. Make sure the material you are cutting is free of all foreign objects. Do not cut materials that may have nails or screws as they will damage the blade and may cause injury to you. Also, if the material contains a loose knot it can break free and create a safety hazard. Only cut with the grain, attempting to cut across the grain of material will create poor results and could create kick-back. Do not attempt to joint end grain either. If you have a cupped board place the concave side down on the table while running it through the machine. This will help remove material on the ends and flatten out the board. <br /> <br /> It's always a good idea to examine the material for flaws and come up with a game plan prior to making your first cut. If the material has a cupped side you should start with the cupped side down. When dealing with boards that are more than twice the length of the in feed and out feed table you should have someone assist you while planing. If your material looks good, the next step is to set up the jointer itself. When setting up the jointer in-feed table, make sure not to remove more than 1/16&quot; of material. This limits the amount of cutter engagement and will help prevent a kickback. You will also need to hook up the adjacent dust collector to the end of the machine, make sure it is plugged in, and turned on. The dust collector must be used with the jointer to help keep the dust out of the air. As you make a cut, it is imperative that you keep the wood firmly against the fence and table. Therefore, you should double check to see if the fence is secure, especially because the fence can be adjusted. You do not want the fence to move while you are making a cut.<br /> <br /> After the jointer is set up you are ready to cut. Press the power switch and slowly push the material through, making sure to keep your hands away from the cutter head/guard. Do not stop pushing the material until after the cut is finished. If the material gets stuck and won't move forward continue to hold onto the work and very carefully turn off the power switch. Do not let go of your work piece during the cut or it could fly backwards.<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> Demonstrate you can safely setup the jointer. You will need to clean up one edge and one face of a board. Remember to never adjust the out feed table as it has been precisely set to the height of the cutter head. Adjusting the in-feed table will change the amount of material removed per pass. Do not set the in-feed table to remove more than 1/16&quot; per pass. Your fingers should never go any lower than the height of the cutter guard. Verify the fence is locked and set at the angle needed before making a pass.<br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> <br /> Edge Cleanup<br /> <br /> 1. Ensure that the material you are cutting is free from nails and foreign objects. Foreign material will damage the cutters and create flying hazards. Check for problematic knots too.<br /> <br /> 2. Make sure the board is at least 8&quot; long and at least 3/4&quot; wide to prevent the board from tilting while cutting. Do not joint workpieces less than 1/4&quot; thick.<br /> <br /> 3. Check the cut gauge on the front table. Make sure you know how much material is being removed. Never adjust the rear table. <br /> <br /> 4. Make sure the fence is tight and set at the correct angle.<br /> <br /> 5. Check that the dust collector is connected. <br /> <br /> 6. Make sure the machine table is clear and press the power on switch for the jointer and dust collector. <br /> <br /> 7. Position your hands safely on the material and use a push stick if needed. A push pad/stick is needed if your material is less than 2&quot; thick. This will keep your fingers away from the cutter head. <br /> <br /> 8. Slowly feed the material through while pushing down on the table and back against the fence. Moving the material too fast will produce a poor finish. <br /> <br /> 9. After making a pass measure the material to see if another pass is required. Multiple passes are normally needed to get the desired results. <br /> <br /> 10. Power off the machine and dust collector.<br /> <br /> 11. Reset the space.<br /> <br /> Facing Material (planing)<br /> <br /> 1. Ensure that the material you are cutting is free from nails or foreign objects. Foreign material will damage the cutters and create flying hazards. Check for problematic knots too.<br /> <br /> 2. Make sure the board is at least 8&quot; long x 2&quot; wide to prevent the board from tilting while facing. Do not joint workpieces less than 1/4&quot; thick.<br /> <br /> 3. Check the cut gauge. When facing you normally want to take off a small amount of material per pass due to the large surface area. <br /> <br /> 4. Make sure the fence is tight and set at the correct angle.<br /> <br /> 5. Check that the dust collector is connected. <br /> <br /> 6. Make sure the machine table is clear and press the power on switch for the jointer and dust collector. <br /> <br /> 7. Position your hands safely on the material. A push pad/stick is needed if your material is less than 2&quot; thick. This will keep your fingers away from the cutter head.<br /> <br /> 8. Slowly feed the material through on the table to get a smooth finish. <br /> <br /> 9. After making a pass inspect the material to see if another pass is needed. Multiple passes are normally required to get the desired results. <br /> <br /> 10. Power off the machine and dust collector.<br /> <br /> 11. Reset the space.<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete the &lt;strong&gt;Wood Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> If the finish looks rough you may be feeding the material too fast. Try slowing down the speed you are feeding the material through.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> Carbide cutters need rotating when they start to dull. This is a job for the technician.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |N/A<br /> |N/A<br /> |N/A<br /> |}</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Jointer&diff=11836 2025-08-15T19:27:28Z

<p>Edejong22: /* General Procedure */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility= Wood Shop<br /> |Is used in domain=Wood<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Powermatic<br /> |Has model=54HH<br /> |Has serial number=170554HH3289<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:jointer_icon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=Jointer icon<br /> |Has iconwname=File:jointer_icon_name.png<br /> |Has image=File:jointer.png<br /> |Has imagedesc=Powermatic Jointer<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1219<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}<br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using a jointer. <br /> * The cutters are very sharp and spin very fast. Keep your fingers away from the cutter head even when its not spinning. Use a push pad/stick to keep your fingers a safe distance from the cutters. <br /> * Never let your thumb or fingers hang down near the table when pushing a board through the machine. <br /> * Hold onto material firmly and keep it against the table and fence to help prevent material kicking back. If material catches on the blade the material can shoot back at you and this is called a kickback. <br /> * Use a hold down or push block when surfacing stock less than 12&quot; long, 3&quot; wide, or 3&quot; thick. <br /> * Never feed material the same direction as the cutter rotation. <br /> * Never try to cut across grain as this could cause a kickback.<br /> * Don't exceed a 1/16&quot; cut per pass as too heavy of a cut can try to push material back at you and overload the machine. <br /> * Make sure material cut is free of all metal and loose Knots to prevent damage to you and the machine. <br /> * Never apply downward pressure to the material directly over the cutter head. This could cause the board to tip and or put your hand/fingers at risk. <br /> This is a video showing how to safely use the jointer: <br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3d1qBxcnI0E<br /> }}<br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> The jointer's function is to produce a flat surface along the length of a board that is no more than 6&quot; in width. The jointer cannot accommodate boards wider than 6&quot;. When gluing board edges together they need to be flat and fit together without gaps. A jointer cuts with a helical cutter-head made up of many tiny carbide cutters wrapped around a rotating drum. Some of the cheaper and older machines use blades rather than carbide inserts to cut away material. <br /> <br /> Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.<br /> <br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e1O12_hRRAU}}<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> [[File:BoardWarp.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Be on the lookout for these types of warping in your workpiece.]]<br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> * Cutter Head - Drum of carbide inserts that performs the cutting action. <br /> * Fence - Metal back-stop that is used to guide and control the angle of material being cut.<br /> <br /> &lt;span class=&quot;ext-link&quot;&gt;[[Media:1791279DXK man EN.pdf|Jointer User Manual]]&lt;/span&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> [[File:Jointer Graphic.png|800px|thumbnail|right]]<br /> <br /> The core of jointer consists of a round cutter head with many carbide cutters. The cutter head is located between the in-feed and out-feed table. The front table can be adjusted up and down to control the amount of material that is exposed to the cutter head. The lower the table the more material per pass will be removed. Don't try to adjust the out-feed table as the height has been set to support the material after it has been ran past the cutter head. Misalignment of the cutter head to out-feed table will create uneven cuts or jam the material on out-feed. There are a few other things to keep in mind regarding your material as well. Make sure the material you are cutting is free of all foreign objects. Do not cut materials that may have nails or screws as they will damage the blade and may cause injury to you. Also, if the material contains a loose knot it can break free and create a safety hazard. Only cut with the grain, attempting to cut across the grain of material will create poor results and could create kick-back. Do not attempt to joint end grain either. If you have a cupped board place the concave side down on the table while running it through the machine. This will help remove material on the ends and flatten out the board. <br /> <br /> It's always a good idea to examine the material for flaws and come up with a game plan prior to making your first cut. If the material has a cupped side you should start with the cupped side down. When dealing with boards that are more than twice the length of the in feed and out feed table you should have someone assist you while planing. If your material looks good, the next step is to set up the jointer itself. When setting up the jointer in-feed table, make sure not to remove more than 1/16&quot; of material. This limits the amount of cutter engagement and will help prevent a kickback. You will also need to hook up the adjacent dust collector to the end of the machine, make sure it is plugged in, and turned on. The dust collector must be used with the jointer to help keep the dust out of the air. As you make a cut, it is imperative that you keep the wood firmly against the fence and table. Therefore, you should double check to see if the fence is secure, especially because the fence can be adjusted. You do not want the fence to move while you are making a cut.<br /> <br /> After the jointer is set up you are ready to cut. Press the power switch and slowly push the material through, making sure to keep your hands away from the cutter head/guard. Do not stop pushing the material until after the cut is finished. If the material gets stuck and won't move forward continue to hold onto the work and very carefully turn off the power switch. Do not let go of your work piece during the cut or it could fly backwards.<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> Demonstrate you can safely setup the jointer. You will need to clean up one edge and one face of a board. Remember to never adjust the out feed table as it has been precisely set to the height of the cutter head. Adjusting the in-feed table will change the amount of material removed per pass. Do not set the in-feed table to remove more than 1/16&quot; per pass. Your fingers should never go any lower than the height of the cutter guard. Verify the fence is locked and set at the angle needed before making a pass.<br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> <br /> Edge Cleanup<br /> <br /> 1. Ensure that the material you are cutting is free from nails and foreign objects. Foreign material will damage the cutters and create flying hazards. Check for problematic knots too.<br /> <br /> 2. Make sure the board is at least 8&quot; long and at least 3/4&quot; wide to prevent the board from tilting while cutting. Do not joint workpieces less than 1/4&quot; thick.<br /> <br /> 3. Check the cut gauge on the front table. Make sure you know how much material is being removed. Never adjust the rear table. <br /> <br /> 4. Make sure the fence is tight and set at the correct angle.<br /> <br /> 5. Check that the dust collector is connected. <br /> <br /> 6. Make sure the machine table is clear and press the power on switch for the jointer and dust collector. <br /> <br /> 7. Position your hands safely on the material and use a push stick if needed. A push pad/stick is needed if your material is less than 2&quot; thick. This will keep your fingers away from the cutter head. <br /> <br /> 8. Slowly feed the material through while pushing down on the table and back against the fence. Moving the material too fast will produce a poor finish. <br /> <br /> 9. After making a pass measure the material to see if another pass is required. Multiple passes are normally needed to get the desired results. <br /> <br /> 10. Power off the machine and dust collector.<br /> <br /> 11. Reset the space.<br /> <br /> Facing Material (planing)<br /> <br /> 1. Ensure that the material you are cutting is free from nails or foreign objects. Foreign material will damage the cutters and create flying hazards. Check for problematic knots too.<br /> <br /> 2. Make sure the board is at least 8&quot; long x 2&quot; wide to prevent the board from tilting while facing. Do not joint workpieces less than 1/4&quot; thick.<br /> <br /> 3. Check the cut gauge. When facing you normally want to take off a small amount of material per pass due to the large surface area. <br /> <br /> 4. Make sure the fence is tight and set at the correct angle.<br /> <br /> 5. Check that the dust collector is connected. <br /> <br /> 6. Make sure the machine table is clear and press the power on switch for the jointer and dust collector. <br /> <br /> 7. Position your hands safely on the material. A push pad/stick is needed if your material is less than 2&quot; thick. This will keep your fingers away from the cutter head.<br /> <br /> 8. Slowly feed the material through on the table to get a smooth finish. <br /> <br /> 9. After making a pass inspect the material to see if another pass is needed. Multiple passes are normally required to get the desired results. <br /> <br /> 10. Power off the machine and dust collector.<br /> <br /> 11. Reset the space.<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete the &lt;strong&gt;Wood Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> If the finish looks rough you may be feeding the material too fast. Try slowing down the speed you are feeding the material through.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> Carbide cutters need rotating when they start to dull. This is a job for the technician.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |Sample<br /> |Sample<br /> |Sample<br /> |}</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Jointer&diff=11835 2025-08-15T19:27:09Z

<p>Edejong22: /* General Procedure */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility= Wood Shop<br /> |Is used in domain=Wood<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Powermatic<br /> |Has model=54HH<br /> |Has serial number=170554HH3289<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:jointer_icon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=Jointer icon<br /> |Has iconwname=File:jointer_icon_name.png<br /> |Has image=File:jointer.png<br /> |Has imagedesc=Powermatic Jointer<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1219<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}<br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using a jointer. <br /> * The cutters are very sharp and spin very fast. Keep your fingers away from the cutter head even when its not spinning. Use a push pad/stick to keep your fingers a safe distance from the cutters. <br /> * Never let your thumb or fingers hang down near the table when pushing a board through the machine. <br /> * Hold onto material firmly and keep it against the table and fence to help prevent material kicking back. If material catches on the blade the material can shoot back at you and this is called a kickback. <br /> * Use a hold down or push block when surfacing stock less than 12&quot; long, 3&quot; wide, or 3&quot; thick. <br /> * Never feed material the same direction as the cutter rotation. <br /> * Never try to cut across grain as this could cause a kickback.<br /> * Don't exceed a 1/16&quot; cut per pass as too heavy of a cut can try to push material back at you and overload the machine. <br /> * Make sure material cut is free of all metal and loose Knots to prevent damage to you and the machine. <br /> * Never apply downward pressure to the material directly over the cutter head. This could cause the board to tip and or put your hand/fingers at risk. <br /> This is a video showing how to safely use the jointer: <br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3d1qBxcnI0E<br /> }}<br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> The jointer's function is to produce a flat surface along the length of a board that is no more than 6&quot; in width. The jointer cannot accommodate boards wider than 6&quot;. When gluing board edges together they need to be flat and fit together without gaps. A jointer cuts with a helical cutter-head made up of many tiny carbide cutters wrapped around a rotating drum. Some of the cheaper and older machines use blades rather than carbide inserts to cut away material. <br /> <br /> Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.<br /> <br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e1O12_hRRAU}}<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> [[File:BoardWarp.jpg|600px|thumb|right|Be on the lookout for these types of warping in your workpiece.]]<br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> * Cutter Head - Drum of carbide inserts that performs the cutting action. <br /> * Fence - Metal back-stop that is used to guide and control the angle of material being cut.<br /> <br /> &lt;span class=&quot;ext-link&quot;&gt;[[Media:1791279DXK man EN.pdf|Jointer User Manual]]&lt;/span&gt;<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> [[File:Jointer Graphic.png|800px|thumbnail|right]]<br /> <br /> The core of jointer consists of a round cutter head with many carbide cutters. The cutter head is located between the in-feed and out-feed table. The front table can be adjusted up and down to control the amount of material that is exposed to the cutter head. The lower the table the more material per pass will be removed. Don't try to adjust the out-feed table as the height has been set to support the material after it has been ran past the cutter head. Misalignment of the cutter head to out-feed table will create uneven cuts or jam the material on out-feed. There are a few other things to keep in mind regarding your material as well. Make sure the material you are cutting is free of all foreign objects. Do not cut materials that may have nails or screws as they will damage the blade and may cause injury to you. Also, if the material contains a loose knot it can break free and create a safety hazard. Only cut with the grain, attempting to cut across the grain of material will create poor results and could create kick-back. Do not attempt to joint end grain either. If you have a cupped board place the concave side down on the table while running it through the machine. This will help remove material on the ends and flatten out the board. <br /> <br /> It's always a good idea to examine the material for flaws and come up with a game plan prior to making your first cut. If the material has a cupped side you should start with the cupped side down. When dealing with boards that are more than twice the length of the in feed and out feed table you should have someone assist you while planing. If your material looks good, the next step is to set up the jointer itself. When setting up the jointer in-feed table, make sure not to remove more than 1/16&quot; of material. This limits the amount of cutter engagement and will help prevent a kickback. You will also need to hook up the adjacent dust collector to the end of the machine, make sure it is plugged in, and turned on. The dust collector must be used with the jointer to help keep the dust out of the air. As you make a cut, it is imperative that you keep the wood firmly against the fence and table. Therefore, you should double check to see if the fence is secure, especially because the fence can be adjusted. You do not want the fence to move while you are making a cut.<br /> <br /> After the jointer is set up you are ready to cut. Press the power switch and slowly push the material through, making sure to keep your hands away from the cutter head/guard. Do not stop pushing the material until after the cut is finished. If the material gets stuck and won't move forward continue to hold onto the work and very carefully turn off the power switch. Do not let go of your work piece during the cut or it could fly backwards.<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> Demonstrate you can safely setup the jointer. You will need to clean up one edge and one face of a board. Remember to never adjust the out feed table as it has been precisely set to the height of the cutter head. Adjusting the in-feed table will change the amount of material removed per pass. Do not set the in-feed table to remove more than 1/16&quot; per pass. Your fingers should never go any lower than the height of the cutter guard. Verify the fence is locked and set at the angle needed before making a pass.<br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> <br /> Edge Cleanup<br /> <br /> Do not perform jointing operations on material shorter than 8 inches, as shorter pieces reduce operator control and increase the risk of kickback or the workpiece being pulled into the cutterhead.<br /> <br /> 1. Ensure that the material you are cutting is free from nails and foreign objects. Foreign material will damage the cutters and create flying hazards. Check for problematic knots too.<br /> <br /> 2. Make sure the board is at least 8&quot; long and at least 3/4&quot; wide to prevent the board from tilting while cutting. Do not joint workpieces less than 1/4&quot; thick.<br /> <br /> 3. Check the cut gauge on the front table. Make sure you know how much material is being removed. Never adjust the rear table. <br /> <br /> 4. Make sure the fence is tight and set at the correct angle.<br /> <br /> 5. Check that the dust collector is connected. <br /> <br /> 6. Make sure the machine table is clear and press the power on switch for the jointer and dust collector. <br /> <br /> 7. Position your hands safely on the material and use a push stick if needed. A push pad/stick is needed if your material is less than 2&quot; thick. This will keep your fingers away from the cutter head. <br /> <br /> 8. Slowly feed the material through while pushing down on the table and back against the fence. Moving the material too fast will produce a poor finish. <br /> <br /> 9. After making a pass measure the material to see if another pass is required. Multiple passes are normally needed to get the desired results. <br /> <br /> 10. Power off the machine and dust collector.<br /> <br /> 11. Reset the space.<br /> <br /> Facing Material (planing)<br /> <br /> 1. Ensure that the material you are cutting is free from nails or foreign objects. Foreign material will damage the cutters and create flying hazards. Check for problematic knots too.<br /> <br /> 2. Make sure the board is at least 8&quot; long x 2&quot; wide to prevent the board from tilting while facing. Do not joint workpieces less than 1/4&quot; thick.<br /> <br /> 3. Check the cut gauge. When facing you normally want to take off a small amount of material per pass due to the large surface area. <br /> <br /> 4. Make sure the fence is tight and set at the correct angle.<br /> <br /> 5. Check that the dust collector is connected. <br /> <br /> 6. Make sure the machine table is clear and press the power on switch for the jointer and dust collector. <br /> <br /> 7. Position your hands safely on the material. A push pad/stick is needed if your material is less than 2&quot; thick. This will keep your fingers away from the cutter head.<br /> <br /> 8. Slowly feed the material through on the table to get a smooth finish. <br /> <br /> 9. After making a pass inspect the material to see if another pass is needed. Multiple passes are normally required to get the desired results. <br /> <br /> 10. Power off the machine and dust collector.<br /> <br /> 11. Reset the space.<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete the &lt;strong&gt;Wood Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> If the finish looks rough you may be feeding the material too fast. Try slowing down the speed you are feeding the material through.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> Carbide cutters need rotating when they start to dull. This is a job for the technician.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |Sample<br /> |Sample<br /> |Sample<br /> |}</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Jewelry_Station&diff=11834 2025-08-15T19:25:10Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Specific Maintenance Tasks */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=The Vault<br /> |Is used in domain=Metal<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Jason's Works<br /> |Has model=Master Deluxe Kit<br /> |Has serial number=<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:Jewelry_stationIcon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has iconwname=<br /> |Has image=File:115835.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1261<br /> |Has ace= Aiden Teague; ateague23@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|500px|right|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> Here are some safety instructions for the {{PAGENAME}}. Remember... SAFETY FIRST!!!<br /> *'''Fire/Burns''' – the propane torch emits an extremely hot open flame that can cause serious burns. Do not point the torch towards yourself or anyone else. Do not touch the nozzle or put your hands in front of the nozzle. Do not tip the torch sideways when annealing. Always make sure to close the valve and lock the trigger after you finish annealing. Be mindful that the needle nose pliers can also be hot after annealing. If you get burned, run cold water over the burned area for several minutes to reduce inflammation and the potential for blistering.<br /> *'''Eye Injury''' – you must wear safety glasses throughout the annealing process and when swinging a hammer to punch out the center of a coin. Anyone else within a 6-foot radius should also wear safety glasses when you are annealing or hammering.<br /> *'''Crush Hazard''' – exercise caution when using the press to fold your coin or using the stretcher/reducer. These tools have several pinch points and can cause serious injury to your hand if it gets caught between the moving parts.<br /> *'''Sharp Hazard''' – coins can have sharp burrs after punching a hole. Use the manual deburring tool to remove the sharp edge.<br /> *'''Corrosive Chemicals''' – the Midas Black Max finish contains hydrochloric acid which can cause severe skin burns and eye damage. A lab coat, chemical goggles, and gloves must be worn when handling hydrochloric acid. Consult the Maker Hub staff for proper disposal. Midas Black Max finish should only be applied to real silver/gold coins. All finishes must be applied in the Finishing Room to minimize your exposure to harmful vapors.<br /> *When punching out the center of a coin, place a wooden block on the floor with the punch assembly on top of it to protect the end of the punch from being damaged by the concrete.<br /> *Ensure there is water in the pot before attempting to anneal your coin.<br /> *Don’t get a coin ring stuck on your finger.<br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> This Jewelry Station has a Jason's Works &quot;Classic&quot; Starter Kit that allows one to turn a coin into a fashionable ring for either yourself or a loved one. Through a process of punching of hole size reductions, forming and polishing, it will bring forth a finished masterpiece in the shape of a ring of which you can be forever proud.<br /> <br /> Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.<br /> <br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htO9uEI6HPw}}<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> '''Annealing''' - heating a piece of metal to make it more malleable and remove internal stresses.<br /> <br /> '''Quenching''' - rapidly cooling a metal in order to obtain certain material properties.<br /> <br /> '''Punching''' - the act of mechanically creating a hole in the coin by hammering the punch through the die.<br /> <br /> '''Die''' - a device for cutting or molding metal into a particular shape.<br /> <br /> '''Deburring''' - to smooth a rough/sharp edge on a part by removing the burr that was created by a punching/cutting/machining action.<br /> <br /> '''Cold Forming''' - a forging technique used to shape metals at or near room temperature.<br /> <br /> '''Folding''' - changing the shape of the coin from a flat disk into a hollow cylinder.<br /> <br /> '''Stretching''' - the act of increasing (stretching) the coin ring's diameter.<br /> <br /> '''Reducing''' - the act of decreasing (reducing) the coin ring's diameter.<br /> <br /> User Manual (You can get one for $20 from Jason's Works)<br /> <br /> [https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRjgtgFUD2y2fZ7Q0wQxnlA More techniques and skills]<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> There are a wide variety of videos on ring making. The basic process is composed of 4 main steps:<br /> # Punching a hole<br /> # Folding the coin<br /> # Stretching the coin<br /> # Sizing the ring<br /> <br /> At various points in the process the metal should be annealed to prevent the metal from becoming too brittle due to cold working. When the coin should be annealed is somewhat subjective and no exact rule exists. The hardness of the coin will depend on the type and the year it was minted. For example, silver half dollars minted up to 1964 are made with more silver and less copper than silver half dollars minted afterwards.<br /> <br /> The steps below can be found in the video below called &quot;The basics of starting a coin ring&quot; from Jason himself:<br /> * [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htO9uEI6HPw The basics of starting a coin ring]<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> Make a coin ring.<br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> * Punching the hole:<br /> ** To begin this process, you want to anneal the selected coin. If you haven't annealed before, it would be best to get a shop supervisor who knows what they're doing to help you out. The goal is to achieve a slight deep red glow (which appears before a bright orange glow) that indicates the coin is sufficiently hot. Overheating the coin can cause deformities, and you sure don't want that.<br /> ** After annealing the coin, proceed to the coin holder (the giant brass screwy thing) and open it up to find the best fitting spacer to center the coin to the best of your ability. No coin is perfectly circular, so don't waste your time here. Before you actually punch the hole, make sure to screw the top back into place, and then take the punch (flat side up) and slide it into the hole on top of the coin press.<br /> *** In order to get a more secure fit, you can use a paper towel to go around the spacer.<br /> ** After everything is in place, using a hammer, slowly hammer the punch through the coin until you feel it give. You don't want to punch it all the way through to the bottom of the press for this might ruin this glorious device.<br /> ** You then want to use a rubber or wooden mallet to hammer the punch back out.<br /> *** For safety reasons, you will want to de-burr the punched hole to avoid cuts.<br /> * Folding the coin:<br /> ** '''Before you begin to do this, it is highly recommended to anneal the coin to make it more malleable.'''<br /> ** In order to fold the coin, take one of the reduction dyes and find one that fits, but is bigger than the coin. For example, it's recommended to use the 1.3 - 1.4 17 degree die for a half-dollar, and go down the sizes to eventually fold the ring over.<br /> *** '''It is important to note that you don't want to fold the coin all the way straight just yet, as it will make it more difficult to reduce down the size later!'''<br /> * Stretching the coin:<br /> ** Once you have folded the coin over, it's time to take it to the &quot;stretching tower,&quot; again, using a paper towel to protect the details of the coin.<br /> ** To begin, you want to measure the coin's current size using the sizing rod, measuring from the smallest side first. Once you have measured the ring's current size, you want to figure out what your target size is and make sure that you stretch the coin one or two sizes bigger (you will be sizing the coin down to the target size).<br /> *** '''As you are working through this, you may want to anneal the coin here and there, making sure that the coin does not become too hard and stiff to work with, causing it to crack like dry skin on a freezing day.'''<br /> * Sizing the ring:<br /> ** From here, take some reduction dies and size and choose accordingly to reduce the size of the bigger end of the ring, using the press to slowly press the ring into the die, reducing it. '''Make sure that you are always reducing from the wider side of the ring!'''<br /> ** As you are making progress here, make sure to check the ring's size using the sizing rod, and anneal as the coin becomes harder to work with, and '''don't get lazy here. It's better to spend more time annealing and softening the coin rather than having the coin crack and you losing all your hard work!'''<br /> ** You will want to think of it as &quot;kneading&quot; the coin into the right shape and size--gently and slowly, making sure that it's done properly or you'll pay the consequences!<br /> * Finishing<br /> ** After you have completed all these steps, it's time to finish your ring. There are many ways that you can do this, and it's all up to you; you can either polish it, sand it, use black max to make the features pop, or just keeping it rustic if your heart desires it to be that way. Regardless, you will have successfully created your first (or maybe hundredth ring)!<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete &lt;strong&gt;The Vault - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> <br /> If the punch assembly is stuck and cannot be unscrewed, use the large channel locks in the machine shop and a vise. Take care to protect the punch assembly from indents/scrapes from the vise and channel locks by padding with rags.<br /> <br /> If the punched coin is stuck on the punch itself, use the teardrop plastic mallet to gently tap the punch out. Take care to catch the punch once it is free instead of letting it drop on the floor and get dinged up.<br /> <br /> If the rotary die in the stretcher/reducer gets stuck beyond hand strength, carefully use the large channel locks to turn the rotary die. Again, use a rag to protect the rotary dies from indents/scrapes.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> Notify the Maker Hub staff if the propane torch runs out of fuel or if any of the jewelry station tools need maintenance.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |N/A<br /> |N/A<br /> |N/A<br /> |}</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Heavy_Duty_Sewing_Machine&diff=11833 2025-08-15T19:22:11Z

<p>Edejong22: /* General maintenance */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=The Hub<br /> |Is used in domain=Cloth<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Consew<br /> |Has model=206RB<br /> |Has serial number=<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:Heavy Duty Sewing Machine.png<br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has iconwname=<br /> |Has image=File:Heavy Duty Sewing Machine 2.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=<br /> |Has ace=Dan Schutter (text him at 503-317-5614)<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}<br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> Here are some safety instructions for the {{PAGENAME}}. Remember... SAFETY FIRST!!!<br /> *'''Sharp Hazard''' – needles are very sharp and can pierce your skin. Turn off the sewing machine when inserting/removing needles to avoid bumping the foot pedal and moving the needle assembly. Never place your fingers directly underneath the needle.<br /> *'''Crush Hazard''' – be aware of all moving parts and keep your fingers away from any pinch points.<br /> *'''Entanglement''' – ensure that loose clothing, long hair, or any other dangling/loose items do not become entangled in the machine. Hair that extends below the collar should be tied up.<br /> *'''Eye Injury''' – needles can break if they hit a solid object while sewing. The broken tip can fly off and become lodged in your eye. Wear safety glasses when using the heavy duty sewing machine.<br /> *While it is improbable that you will use pins with this machine, do not sew over pins. This can break or bend the needle.<br /> *Ensure the needle you are using is undamaged.<br /> *Make sure the needle is installed correctly.<br /> *Be very careful to keep loose clothing and hair away from the pulley. If it grabs a loose sleeve, it could break your hand; if it grabs your hair, it could remove a piece your scalp. No dangling necklaces or earrings either! (Don't make me explain this.)<br /> *For the safety of the machine always remove the bobbin from the machine before using the winding mechanism. Also, do not turn the handwheel manually without being certain to hold the thread tails for bobbin and spool to make certain they do not become entangled in the bobbin case.<br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> These are the things to know in order to succeed on the Consew:<br /> <br /> Become familiar with the contents of the manual located in the top drawer of the storage unit under the serger/sewing machine table. It's full of misspellings and grammatical errors for now, nevertheless, it's helpful. Where it ceases to be helpful is in the description of the clutch motor which our Consew no longer possesses; our Consew has a servo motor. To understand why you should be happy about this, please view the first 5'44&quot; of this video:<br /> <br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lavkvsU5ltk&amp;ab_channel=AlexanderDyer}}<br /> <br /> Please refer to the manual to learn the anatomy of the machine. <br /> <br /> *Question regarding the thread controller spring, because they’ll need to make that adjustment themselves and should know what it is, where it is, and how to do that.<br /> <br /> *Make sure the bobbin case is empty before trying to fill another bobbin. If there is a bobbin left in the bobbin case when winding a new bobbin a thread jam will occur in the bobbin case. Congratulations! You just broke it!<br /> <br /> RE: Changing the needle<br /> <br /> It’s easy to do, but will you want the students to seek the help of the ace or a tech?<br /> <br /> I verified a screwdriver key, such as the ones purchased for the Janomes,  will work for loosening the screw holding the needle in place. One has been added to the notions drawer in the worktable for the Consew.<br /> <br /> RE: Demo and instructions for it, (These things need to included.)<br /> <br /> *Following the safety protocol.<br /> <br /> *Threading the machine<br /> <br /> *Filling the bobbin, because people are going to need thread to match their project.<br /> <br /> *We need a demo project or projects to choose from. Leather or upholstery?<br /> <br /> *They should have to prove they can remove and replace the needle. This is where they need to know what the scarf is and which direction it should face.<br /> <br /> *Double checking the stitch speed and stitch length, and that they know how to change those settings.<br /> <br /> *Adjusting thread controller spring is simple and should be known and demonstrated since its function is dependent on the materials being used.<br /> <br /> *In the instruction for the demo students should be encouraged to do test samples before stitching on their actual project.<br /> <br /> *I think for the most inexperienced it would be helpful to remind them ‘righty-tight/lefty-loosey re: the tension knob.<br /> <br /> *Stitch length dial works differently than the instruction book says; there is no stopper.<br /> <br /> *Part of reformatting the uploaded/downloaded instruction manual should be marking which adjustments listed in the contents should only be performed by the tech. (Or maybe those parts of the manual shouldn’t be on the WIKI at all, in order to avoid confusion.)<br /> <br /> General remarks:<br /> <br /> Do we need a toolkit especially for the Consew? Something like the sewing kits that we have for the Janomes. One that has upholstery sewing needles, etc. . . . We don’t really have any instructions for how to sew with an industrial, not even in the manual. Things like checking for your thread tails to make sure they're behind the work and won't become entangled in the stitching. Or where your hands should be while stitching. Or what landmarks on the machine to use to find and guide your stitch path. Where you should be sitting The end result of following the instructions on the WIKI will be the ability to operate the machine safely, not the ability to succeed at making anything on it.<br /> <br /> The Videos:<br /> <br /> [https://makernexuswiki.com/wiki/Consew_206RB-4_Walking_Foot_Industrial_Sewing_Machine Sewing Wiki]<br /> This is the wiki for some folks who have a very similar machine. Most of their links look good, but should be viewed before being adopted--just to be sure they're relevant. The text is very good--terms and directions are clear and correct; I'd imitate that as much as possible.<br /> <br /> [https://www.superiorthreads.com/education/thread-twist-explained 'S' &amp; 'Z' Twists]<br /> 'S' and 'Z' twists are very clearly explained. On the Consew you must use 'left twisted thread for upper/needle thread, but you can use either right or left twisted thread for lower/bobbin thread.' According to the folks at Superior the terms left and right twist are not correct terminology. They have a video embedded in the article that explains everything. The Consew needs Z-twist for the needle; Z-twist is the same as left twist. It might be nice to have a loupe among our tools, so students can check this before they thread the machine.<br /> <br /> Let me know if you'd like me to find any other instructional materials.<br /> <br /> <br /> Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tfckzCBM6AU}}<br /> <br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kzwqt66-VUQ}}<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> [[File:1024px-Sewing-machine-needles-types.jpg|400px|thumb|right|The scarf of the needle is referenced in the &quot;changing the needle&quot; instructions in the user manual.]]<br /> <br /> * Bobbin: The metal drum that holds the lower thread.<br /> * Foot:<br /> <br /> User Manual<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> <br /> Make sure the dots on the handwheel and frame are aligned before removing or inserting a bobbin.<br /> <br /> <br /> You will need to know how to replace a broken or damaged needle. The needle must be seated with the scarf to the right. You can be certain the needle is fully seated when you cannot push it up any further in the needle bar. See this article regarding a needle's structure: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sewing_machine_needle<br /> <br /> [[File:S-and-z-twist-figure.png|250px|thumb|right|The difference between S-twist and Z-twist thread.]]<br /> <br /> On the Consew you must use z- or left twist thread for upper/needle thread, but you can use either s-/right or z-/left twisted thread for lower/bobbin thread. If you use the wrong thread in the needle it will unravel, and the machine will jam. To learn more about this, see [https://www.servicethread.com/blog/left-twist-vs.-right-twist-industrial-sewing-thread-differences-and-applications this explanation].<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> RE: Safety protocol<br /> <br /> *Eye protection<br /> <br /> *Removing and replacing the needle. Needs to be part of the training/demo.<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete &lt;strong&gt;The Hub - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> <br /> Every time you change the needle make sure it is still aligned over the needle hole by turning the flywheel one complete rotation toward you. If the needle does not pass cleanly through the needle hole, tell Justin. Do not sew!<br /> <br /> If the machine is skipping stitches it needs a timing adjustment; don’t sew—tell Justin.<br /> <br /> Irregular stitch length or overheating; don’t sew—tell Justin.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> *Clean lint, thread, and debris from feed dogs, bobbin area, and under needle plate after each use.<br /> *Oil moving parts according to the manual - use sewing machine oil only and avoid over-oiling.<br /> *Check belt tension and condition - replace if frayed, cracked, or slipping.<br /> *Inspect needle for bending, dullness, or burrs - replace regularly to maintain stitch quality.<br /> *Keep tension discs clean and free of lint or residue.<br /> *Verify presser foot pressure and feed timing periodically - adjust as needed for consistent fabric feeding.<br /> *Tighten screws, nuts, and bolts to prevent vibration-related loosening.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |Oil Machine Locations<br /> |As Needed<br /> |Tech<br /> |}</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Heavy_Duty_Sewing_Machine&diff=11832 2025-08-15T19:19:29Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Demonstration */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=The Hub<br /> |Is used in domain=Cloth<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Consew<br /> |Has model=206RB<br /> |Has serial number=<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:Heavy Duty Sewing Machine.png<br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has iconwname=<br /> |Has image=File:Heavy Duty Sewing Machine 2.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=<br /> |Has ace=Dan Schutter (text him at 503-317-5614)<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}<br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> Here are some safety instructions for the {{PAGENAME}}. Remember... SAFETY FIRST!!!<br /> *'''Sharp Hazard''' – needles are very sharp and can pierce your skin. Turn off the sewing machine when inserting/removing needles to avoid bumping the foot pedal and moving the needle assembly. Never place your fingers directly underneath the needle.<br /> *'''Crush Hazard''' – be aware of all moving parts and keep your fingers away from any pinch points.<br /> *'''Entanglement''' – ensure that loose clothing, long hair, or any other dangling/loose items do not become entangled in the machine. Hair that extends below the collar should be tied up.<br /> *'''Eye Injury''' – needles can break if they hit a solid object while sewing. The broken tip can fly off and become lodged in your eye. Wear safety glasses when using the heavy duty sewing machine.<br /> *While it is improbable that you will use pins with this machine, do not sew over pins. This can break or bend the needle.<br /> *Ensure the needle you are using is undamaged.<br /> *Make sure the needle is installed correctly.<br /> *Be very careful to keep loose clothing and hair away from the pulley. If it grabs a loose sleeve, it could break your hand; if it grabs your hair, it could remove a piece your scalp. No dangling necklaces or earrings either! (Don't make me explain this.)<br /> *For the safety of the machine always remove the bobbin from the machine before using the winding mechanism. Also, do not turn the handwheel manually without being certain to hold the thread tails for bobbin and spool to make certain they do not become entangled in the bobbin case.<br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> These are the things to know in order to succeed on the Consew:<br /> <br /> Become familiar with the contents of the manual located in the top drawer of the storage unit under the serger/sewing machine table. It's full of misspellings and grammatical errors for now, nevertheless, it's helpful. Where it ceases to be helpful is in the description of the clutch motor which our Consew no longer possesses; our Consew has a servo motor. To understand why you should be happy about this, please view the first 5'44&quot; of this video:<br /> <br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lavkvsU5ltk&amp;ab_channel=AlexanderDyer}}<br /> <br /> Please refer to the manual to learn the anatomy of the machine. <br /> <br /> *Question regarding the thread controller spring, because they’ll need to make that adjustment themselves and should know what it is, where it is, and how to do that.<br /> <br /> *Make sure the bobbin case is empty before trying to fill another bobbin. If there is a bobbin left in the bobbin case when winding a new bobbin a thread jam will occur in the bobbin case. Congratulations! You just broke it!<br /> <br /> RE: Changing the needle<br /> <br /> It’s easy to do, but will you want the students to seek the help of the ace or a tech?<br /> <br /> I verified a screwdriver key, such as the ones purchased for the Janomes,  will work for loosening the screw holding the needle in place. One has been added to the notions drawer in the worktable for the Consew.<br /> <br /> RE: Demo and instructions for it, (These things need to included.)<br /> <br /> *Following the safety protocol.<br /> <br /> *Threading the machine<br /> <br /> *Filling the bobbin, because people are going to need thread to match their project.<br /> <br /> *We need a demo project or projects to choose from. Leather or upholstery?<br /> <br /> *They should have to prove they can remove and replace the needle. This is where they need to know what the scarf is and which direction it should face.<br /> <br /> *Double checking the stitch speed and stitch length, and that they know how to change those settings.<br /> <br /> *Adjusting thread controller spring is simple and should be known and demonstrated since its function is dependent on the materials being used.<br /> <br /> *In the instruction for the demo students should be encouraged to do test samples before stitching on their actual project.<br /> <br /> *I think for the most inexperienced it would be helpful to remind them ‘righty-tight/lefty-loosey re: the tension knob.<br /> <br /> *Stitch length dial works differently than the instruction book says; there is no stopper.<br /> <br /> *Part of reformatting the uploaded/downloaded instruction manual should be marking which adjustments listed in the contents should only be performed by the tech. (Or maybe those parts of the manual shouldn’t be on the WIKI at all, in order to avoid confusion.)<br /> <br /> General remarks:<br /> <br /> Do we need a toolkit especially for the Consew? Something like the sewing kits that we have for the Janomes. One that has upholstery sewing needles, etc. . . . We don’t really have any instructions for how to sew with an industrial, not even in the manual. Things like checking for your thread tails to make sure they're behind the work and won't become entangled in the stitching. Or where your hands should be while stitching. Or what landmarks on the machine to use to find and guide your stitch path. Where you should be sitting The end result of following the instructions on the WIKI will be the ability to operate the machine safely, not the ability to succeed at making anything on it.<br /> <br /> The Videos:<br /> <br /> [https://makernexuswiki.com/wiki/Consew_206RB-4_Walking_Foot_Industrial_Sewing_Machine Sewing Wiki]<br /> This is the wiki for some folks who have a very similar machine. Most of their links look good, but should be viewed before being adopted--just to be sure they're relevant. The text is very good--terms and directions are clear and correct; I'd imitate that as much as possible.<br /> <br /> [https://www.superiorthreads.com/education/thread-twist-explained 'S' &amp; 'Z' Twists]<br /> 'S' and 'Z' twists are very clearly explained. On the Consew you must use 'left twisted thread for upper/needle thread, but you can use either right or left twisted thread for lower/bobbin thread.' According to the folks at Superior the terms left and right twist are not correct terminology. They have a video embedded in the article that explains everything. The Consew needs Z-twist for the needle; Z-twist is the same as left twist. It might be nice to have a loupe among our tools, so students can check this before they thread the machine.<br /> <br /> Let me know if you'd like me to find any other instructional materials.<br /> <br /> <br /> Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tfckzCBM6AU}}<br /> <br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kzwqt66-VUQ}}<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> [[File:1024px-Sewing-machine-needles-types.jpg|400px|thumb|right|The scarf of the needle is referenced in the &quot;changing the needle&quot; instructions in the user manual.]]<br /> <br /> * Bobbin: The metal drum that holds the lower thread.<br /> * Foot:<br /> <br /> User Manual<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> <br /> Make sure the dots on the handwheel and frame are aligned before removing or inserting a bobbin.<br /> <br /> <br /> You will need to know how to replace a broken or damaged needle. The needle must be seated with the scarf to the right. You can be certain the needle is fully seated when you cannot push it up any further in the needle bar. See this article regarding a needle's structure: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sewing_machine_needle<br /> <br /> [[File:S-and-z-twist-figure.png|250px|thumb|right|The difference between S-twist and Z-twist thread.]]<br /> <br /> On the Consew you must use z- or left twist thread for upper/needle thread, but you can use either s-/right or z-/left twisted thread for lower/bobbin thread. If you use the wrong thread in the needle it will unravel, and the machine will jam. To learn more about this, see [https://www.servicethread.com/blog/left-twist-vs.-right-twist-industrial-sewing-thread-differences-and-applications this explanation].<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> RE: Safety protocol<br /> <br /> *Eye protection<br /> <br /> *Removing and replacing the needle. Needs to be part of the training/demo.<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete &lt;strong&gt;The Hub - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> <br /> Every time you change the needle make sure it is still aligned over the needle hole by turning the flywheel one complete rotation toward you. If the needle does not pass cleanly through the needle hole, tell Justin. Do not sew!<br /> <br /> If the machine is skipping stitches it needs a timing adjustment; don’t sew—tell Justin.<br /> <br /> Irregular stitch length or overheating; don’t sew—tell Justin.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> Insert text<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |Oil Machine Locations<br /> |As Needed<br /> |Tech<br /> |}</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Heavy_Duty_Sewing_Machine&diff=11831 2025-08-15T19:18:57Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Description */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=The Hub<br /> |Is used in domain=Cloth<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Consew<br /> |Has model=206RB<br /> |Has serial number=<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:Heavy Duty Sewing Machine.png<br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has iconwname=<br /> |Has image=File:Heavy Duty Sewing Machine 2.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=<br /> |Has ace=Dan Schutter (text him at 503-317-5614)<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}<br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> Here are some safety instructions for the {{PAGENAME}}. Remember... SAFETY FIRST!!!<br /> *'''Sharp Hazard''' – needles are very sharp and can pierce your skin. Turn off the sewing machine when inserting/removing needles to avoid bumping the foot pedal and moving the needle assembly. Never place your fingers directly underneath the needle.<br /> *'''Crush Hazard''' – be aware of all moving parts and keep your fingers away from any pinch points.<br /> *'''Entanglement''' – ensure that loose clothing, long hair, or any other dangling/loose items do not become entangled in the machine. Hair that extends below the collar should be tied up.<br /> *'''Eye Injury''' – needles can break if they hit a solid object while sewing. The broken tip can fly off and become lodged in your eye. Wear safety glasses when using the heavy duty sewing machine.<br /> *While it is improbable that you will use pins with this machine, do not sew over pins. This can break or bend the needle.<br /> *Ensure the needle you are using is undamaged.<br /> *Make sure the needle is installed correctly.<br /> *Be very careful to keep loose clothing and hair away from the pulley. If it grabs a loose sleeve, it could break your hand; if it grabs your hair, it could remove a piece your scalp. No dangling necklaces or earrings either! (Don't make me explain this.)<br /> *For the safety of the machine always remove the bobbin from the machine before using the winding mechanism. Also, do not turn the handwheel manually without being certain to hold the thread tails for bobbin and spool to make certain they do not become entangled in the bobbin case.<br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> These are the things to know in order to succeed on the Consew:<br /> <br /> Become familiar with the contents of the manual located in the top drawer of the storage unit under the serger/sewing machine table. It's full of misspellings and grammatical errors for now, nevertheless, it's helpful. Where it ceases to be helpful is in the description of the clutch motor which our Consew no longer possesses; our Consew has a servo motor. To understand why you should be happy about this, please view the first 5'44&quot; of this video:<br /> <br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lavkvsU5ltk&amp;ab_channel=AlexanderDyer}}<br /> <br /> Please refer to the manual to learn the anatomy of the machine. <br /> <br /> *Question regarding the thread controller spring, because they’ll need to make that adjustment themselves and should know what it is, where it is, and how to do that.<br /> <br /> *Make sure the bobbin case is empty before trying to fill another bobbin. If there is a bobbin left in the bobbin case when winding a new bobbin a thread jam will occur in the bobbin case. Congratulations! You just broke it!<br /> <br /> RE: Changing the needle<br /> <br /> It’s easy to do, but will you want the students to seek the help of the ace or a tech?<br /> <br /> I verified a screwdriver key, such as the ones purchased for the Janomes,  will work for loosening the screw holding the needle in place. One has been added to the notions drawer in the worktable for the Consew.<br /> <br /> RE: Demo and instructions for it, (These things need to included.)<br /> <br /> *Following the safety protocol.<br /> <br /> *Threading the machine<br /> <br /> *Filling the bobbin, because people are going to need thread to match their project.<br /> <br /> *We need a demo project or projects to choose from. Leather or upholstery?<br /> <br /> *They should have to prove they can remove and replace the needle. This is where they need to know what the scarf is and which direction it should face.<br /> <br /> *Double checking the stitch speed and stitch length, and that they know how to change those settings.<br /> <br /> *Adjusting thread controller spring is simple and should be known and demonstrated since its function is dependent on the materials being used.<br /> <br /> *In the instruction for the demo students should be encouraged to do test samples before stitching on their actual project.<br /> <br /> *I think for the most inexperienced it would be helpful to remind them ‘righty-tight/lefty-loosey re: the tension knob.<br /> <br /> *Stitch length dial works differently than the instruction book says; there is no stopper.<br /> <br /> *Part of reformatting the uploaded/downloaded instruction manual should be marking which adjustments listed in the contents should only be performed by the tech. (Or maybe those parts of the manual shouldn’t be on the WIKI at all, in order to avoid confusion.)<br /> <br /> General remarks:<br /> <br /> Do we need a toolkit especially for the Consew? Something like the sewing kits that we have for the Janomes. One that has upholstery sewing needles, etc. . . . We don’t really have any instructions for how to sew with an industrial, not even in the manual. Things like checking for your thread tails to make sure they're behind the work and won't become entangled in the stitching. Or where your hands should be while stitching. Or what landmarks on the machine to use to find and guide your stitch path. Where you should be sitting The end result of following the instructions on the WIKI will be the ability to operate the machine safely, not the ability to succeed at making anything on it.<br /> <br /> The Videos:<br /> <br /> [https://makernexuswiki.com/wiki/Consew_206RB-4_Walking_Foot_Industrial_Sewing_Machine Sewing Wiki]<br /> This is the wiki for some folks who have a very similar machine. Most of their links look good, but should be viewed before being adopted--just to be sure they're relevant. The text is very good--terms and directions are clear and correct; I'd imitate that as much as possible.<br /> <br /> [https://www.superiorthreads.com/education/thread-twist-explained 'S' &amp; 'Z' Twists]<br /> 'S' and 'Z' twists are very clearly explained. On the Consew you must use 'left twisted thread for upper/needle thread, but you can use either right or left twisted thread for lower/bobbin thread.' According to the folks at Superior the terms left and right twist are not correct terminology. They have a video embedded in the article that explains everything. The Consew needs Z-twist for the needle; Z-twist is the same as left twist. It might be nice to have a loupe among our tools, so students can check this before they thread the machine.<br /> <br /> Let me know if you'd like me to find any other instructional materials.<br /> <br /> <br /> Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tfckzCBM6AU}}<br /> <br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kzwqt66-VUQ}}<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> [[File:1024px-Sewing-machine-needles-types.jpg|400px|thumb|right|The scarf of the needle is referenced in the &quot;changing the needle&quot; instructions in the user manual.]]<br /> <br /> * Bobbin: The metal drum that holds the lower thread.<br /> * Foot:<br /> <br /> User Manual<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> <br /> Make sure the dots on the handwheel and frame are aligned before removing or inserting a bobbin.<br /> <br /> <br /> You will need to know how to replace a broken or damaged needle. The needle must be seated with the scarf to the right. You can be certain the needle is fully seated when you cannot push it up any further in the needle bar. See this article regarding a needle's structure: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sewing_machine_needle<br /> <br /> [[File:S-and-z-twist-figure.png|250px|thumb|right|The difference between S-twist and Z-twist thread.]]<br /> <br /> On the Consew you must use z- or left twist thread for upper/needle thread, but you can use either s-/right or z-/left twisted thread for lower/bobbin thread. If you use the wrong thread in the needle it will unravel, and the machine will jam. To learn more about this, see [https://www.servicethread.com/blog/left-twist-vs.-right-twist-industrial-sewing-thread-differences-and-applications this explanation].<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> RE: Safety protocol<br /> <br /> ·       Eye protection<br /> <br /> ·       Removing and replacing the needle. Needs to be part of the training/demo.<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete &lt;strong&gt;The Hub - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> <br /> Every time you change the needle make sure it is still aligned over the needle hole by turning the flywheel one complete rotation toward you. If the needle does not pass cleanly through the needle hole, tell Justin. Do not sew!<br /> <br /> If the machine is skipping stitches it needs a timing adjustment; don’t sew—tell Justin.<br /> <br /> Irregular stitch length or overheating; don’t sew—tell Justin.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> Insert text<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |Oil Machine Locations<br /> |As Needed<br /> |Tech<br /> |}</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Heavy_Duty_Sewing_Machine&diff=11830 2025-08-15T19:17:40Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Description */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=The Hub<br /> |Is used in domain=Cloth<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Consew<br /> |Has model=206RB<br /> |Has serial number=<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:Heavy Duty Sewing Machine.png<br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has iconwname=<br /> |Has image=File:Heavy Duty Sewing Machine 2.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=<br /> |Has ace=Dan Schutter (text him at 503-317-5614)<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}<br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> __TOC__<br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> Here are some safety instructions for the {{PAGENAME}}. Remember... SAFETY FIRST!!!<br /> *'''Sharp Hazard''' – needles are very sharp and can pierce your skin. Turn off the sewing machine when inserting/removing needles to avoid bumping the foot pedal and moving the needle assembly. Never place your fingers directly underneath the needle.<br /> *'''Crush Hazard''' – be aware of all moving parts and keep your fingers away from any pinch points.<br /> *'''Entanglement''' – ensure that loose clothing, long hair, or any other dangling/loose items do not become entangled in the machine. Hair that extends below the collar should be tied up.<br /> *'''Eye Injury''' – needles can break if they hit a solid object while sewing. The broken tip can fly off and become lodged in your eye. Wear safety glasses when using the heavy duty sewing machine.<br /> *While it is improbable that you will use pins with this machine, do not sew over pins. This can break or bend the needle.<br /> *Ensure the needle you are using is undamaged.<br /> *Make sure the needle is installed correctly.<br /> *Be very careful to keep loose clothing and hair away from the pulley. If it grabs a loose sleeve, it could break your hand; if it grabs your hair, it could remove a piece your scalp. No dangling necklaces or earrings either! (Don't make me explain this.)<br /> *For the safety of the machine always remove the bobbin from the machine before using the winding mechanism. Also, do not turn the handwheel manually without being certain to hold the thread tails for bobbin and spool to make certain they do not become entangled in the bobbin case.<br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> These are the things to know in order to succeed on the Consew:<br /> <br /> Become familiar with the contents of the manual located in the top drawer of the storage unit under the serger/sewing machine table. It's full of misspellings and grammatical errors for now, nevertheless, it's helpful. Where it ceases to be helpful is in the description of the clutch motor which our Consew no longer possesses; our Consew has a servo motor. To understand why you should be happy about this, please view the first 5'44&quot; of this video:<br /> <br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lavkvsU5ltk&amp;ab_channel=AlexanderDyer}}<br /> <br /> Please refer to the manual to learn the anatomy of the machine. <br /> <br /> ·       Question regarding the thread controller spring, because they’ll need to make that adjustment themselves and should know what it is, where it is, and how to do that.<br /> <br /> ·       Make sure the bobbin case is empty before trying to fill another bobbin. If there is a bobbin left in the bobbin case when winding a new bobbin a thread jam will occur in the bobbin case. Congratulations! You just broke it!<br /> <br /> RE: Changing the needle<br /> <br /> It’s easy to do, but will you want the students to seek the help of the ace or a tech?<br /> <br /> I verified a screwdriver key, such as the ones purchased for the Janomes,  will work for loosening the screw holding the needle in place. One has been added to the notions drawer in the worktable for the Consew.<br /> <br /> RE: Demo and instructions for it, (These things need to included.)<br /> <br /> ·       Following the safety protocol.<br /> <br /> ·       Threading the machine<br /> <br /> ·       Filling the bobbin, because people are going to need thread to match their project.<br /> <br /> ·       We need a demo project or projects to choose from. Leather or upholstery?<br /> <br /> ·       They should have to prove they can remove and replace the needle. This is where they need to know what the scarf is and which direction it should face.<br /> <br /> ·       Double checking the stitch speed and stitch length, and that they know how to change those settings.<br /> <br /> ·       Adjusting thread controller spring is simple and should be known and demonstrated since its function is dependent on the materials being used.<br /> <br /> ·       In the instruction for the demo students should be encouraged to do test samples before stitching on their actual project.<br /> <br /> ·       I think for the most inexperienced it would be helpful to remind them ‘righty-tight/lefty-loosey re: the tension knob.<br /> <br /> ·       Stitch length dial works differently than the instruction book says; there is no stopper.<br /> <br /> ·       Part of reformatting the uploaded/downloaded instruction manual should be marking which adjustments listed in the contents should only be performed by the tech. (Or maybe those parts of the manual shouldn’t be on the WIKI at all, in order to avoid confusion.)<br /> <br /> General remarks:<br /> <br /> Do we need a toolkit especially for the Consew? Something like the sewing kits that we have for the Janomes. One that has upholstery sewing needles, etc. . . . We don’t really have any instructions for how to sew with an industrial, not even in the manual. Things like checking for your thread tails to make sure they're behind the work and won't become entangled in the stitching. Or where your hands should be while stitching. Or what landmarks on the machine to use to find and guide your stitch path. Where you should be sitting The end result of following the instructions on the WIKI will be the ability to operate the machine safely, not the ability to succeed at making anything on it.<br /> <br /> The Videos:<br /> <br /> [https://makernexuswiki.com/wiki/Consew_206RB-4_Walking_Foot_Industrial_Sewing_Machine Sewing Wiki]<br /> This is the wiki for some folks who have a very similar machine. Most of their links look good, but should be viewed before being adopted--just to be sure they're relevant. The text is very good--terms and directions are clear and correct; I'd imitate that as much as possible.<br /> <br /> [https://www.superiorthreads.com/education/thread-twist-explained 'S' &amp; 'Z' Twists]<br /> 'S' and 'Z' twists are very clearly explained. On the Consew you must use 'left twisted thread for upper/needle thread, but you can use either right or left twisted thread for lower/bobbin thread.' According to the folks at Superior the terms left and right twist are not correct terminology. They have a video embedded in the article that explains everything. The Consew needs Z-twist for the needle; Z-twist is the same as left twist. It might be nice to have a loupe among our tools, so students can check this before they thread the machine.<br /> <br /> Let me know if you'd like me to find any other instructional materials.<br /> <br /> <br /> The wiki page for the heavy duty sewing machine is coming soon. This is a place holder for the future. <br /> <br /> Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.<br /> <br /> Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tfckzCBM6AU}}<br /> <br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kzwqt66-VUQ}}<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> [[File:1024px-Sewing-machine-needles-types.jpg|400px|thumb|right|The scarf of the needle is referenced in the &quot;changing the needle&quot; instructions in the user manual.]]<br /> <br /> * Bobbin: The metal drum that holds the lower thread.<br /> * Foot:<br /> <br /> User Manual<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> <br /> Make sure the dots on the handwheel and frame are aligned before removing or inserting a bobbin.<br /> <br /> <br /> You will need to know how to replace a broken or damaged needle. The needle must be seated with the scarf to the right. You can be certain the needle is fully seated when you cannot push it up any further in the needle bar. See this article regarding a needle's structure: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sewing_machine_needle<br /> <br /> [[File:S-and-z-twist-figure.png|250px|thumb|right|The difference between S-twist and Z-twist thread.]]<br /> <br /> On the Consew you must use z- or left twist thread for upper/needle thread, but you can use either s-/right or z-/left twisted thread for lower/bobbin thread. If you use the wrong thread in the needle it will unravel, and the machine will jam. To learn more about this, see [https://www.servicethread.com/blog/left-twist-vs.-right-twist-industrial-sewing-thread-differences-and-applications this explanation].<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> RE: Safety protocol<br /> <br /> ·       Eye protection<br /> <br /> ·       Removing and replacing the needle. Needs to be part of the training/demo.<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete &lt;strong&gt;The Hub - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> <br /> Every time you change the needle make sure it is still aligned over the needle hole by turning the flywheel one complete rotation toward you. If the needle does not pass cleanly through the needle hole, tell Justin. Do not sew!<br /> <br /> If the machine is skipping stitches it needs a timing adjustment; don’t sew—tell Justin.<br /> <br /> Irregular stitch length or overheating; don’t sew—tell Justin.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> Insert text<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |Oil Machine Locations<br /> |As Needed<br /> |Tech<br /> |}</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Hand_Router&diff=11829 2025-08-15T19:14:43Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Specific Maintenance Tasks */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility= Wood Shop<br /> |Is used in domain=Wood<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Porter Cable<br /> |Has model=8902<br /> |Has serial number=937113201832-49<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:Hand Router.png<br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has iconwname=<br /> |Has image=File:HandRouterImage.jpeg<br /> |Has imagedesc=Porter Cable Model 8902 2.25 HP Hand Router.<br /> |Has description=Hand router for use in the Maker Hub when routing wood if you intend to use a template, route imprecisely, or are too old-school to use the handheld CNC router. <br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1269<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}} <br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> The hand router is very versatile but can also be a very dangerous tool if not used properly. Used in conjunction with the proper jigs and templates, the router can accomplish a wide variety of tasks with relative ease. Holes and channels of varying depths and nearly limitless shapes can be cut. The router can also use special bits to cut bevels and chamfers along the edges of a workpiece.<br /> <br /> Introductory Video<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Vl8Jbw3cSk}}<br /> <br /> Another Introductory Video<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bG2ldmVt56Y}}<br /> <br /> About Direction of Cut<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Qqimqo-ohU}}<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> <br /> [[Media:HandRouterManual890_series.pdf|Hand Router User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> Each bit is made for a different job. The wood shop has a wide assortment, although less common types may be unavailable. It should be noted that different bit sizes and profiles will operate better at different speeds. The amount of material that is being removed in each pass as well as the hardness of the wood should determine the speed the router is ran. You should not attempt to use any bits over 1&quot; in diameter as these are designed for use in a router table and could create a dangerous situation. <br /> <br /> Occasionally routing can leave burn marks on the work piece. This usually means that the bit in the router has become dull, let a shop supervisor know if a bit seems dull. Sometimes the burning is due to build up of resin and other gunk (a technical term) on the back of the blade insulating the bit and allowing for heat to build up, make sure to keep bits clean. A final possible cause of burning wood while routing is taking passes that are too slow or setting the router bit speed too high. A good rule of thumb for setting router bit speed is the larger the cutter the slower the speed. Set the spindle speed adjustment to around 20000 RPM when starting out and you can adjust as needed. If a specific cutter is marked with a recommended speed start with that. <br /> <br /> [[File:Hand router.jpg|500px|right]]<br /> &lt;figure-inline&gt;[[Image:RouterBits.jpg|331x331px]]&lt;/figure-inline&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> *Fixture - Tooling you make or buy, which assists in the usage of a tool and helps yield a higher quality product.<br /> *Soft Start - Electronic circuit used to slow the start up speed of a motor or power tool.<br /> <br /> ====Operation====<br /> <br /> The hand router is a versatile power tool and can accommodate 2 different cutter shank diameters. Both the 1/4&quot; and 1/2&quot; shank require their own specific collet. The collet is changed by unscrewing the collet clamping nut and removing the collet. The collet is located near the cutter so it tends to collect a large amount of wood dust. It's important to always clean out the collet and collet housing so the spring clamping action works properly. It's very important to have the proper amount of cutter shank engagement. A cutter shank that is not installed correctly could come loose or even damage the collet. You should have at least 3/4&quot; engagement into the collet. The cutter should be inserted all the way into the collet then pulled out approximately 1/8&quot;. This will make sure the shank is not bottomed out. <br /> <br /> If your material looks good, the next step is to set up the router itself. When setting up the router height,<br /> <br /> After the router is set up you are ready to cut. Turn on the router and slowly feed the cutter into the material, making sure to keep your hands on the handles. Do not stop the cutter in one spot and let it sit as this will cause burning. Also make sure the router spindle has stopped spinning before taking your hands off the handles.<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> Demonstrate you can safely setup the hand router/tooling. You will need to chamfer or round over an edge of material. Remember to always unplug the router when changing tools or making adjustments to prevent an accidental turn on situation. The direction of travel is also important when making cuts to prevent tearing out corners and edges. Use router bits with bearings to help guide the cutter. Never attempt to free hand a cut without a guide for the router to follow as this can lead to the router running away out of control.<br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> <br /> '''Edge Chamfer'''<br /> <br /> 1. The material you are cutting needs to be free from nails or foreign objects. The material should be at least 1/2&quot; thick. <br /> <br /> 2. Make sure the material is secured. You can use clamps, double sided tape, or bench pucks. Material that is not secure will move and create a hazard. <br /> <br /> 3. Select the type of router bit you wish to use. Make sure the bit has a bearing guide. <br /> <br /> 4. Verify the router is unplugged and place the router upside down on the bench. <br /> <br /> 5. Select the 1/2&quot; or 1/4&quot; collet needed for the appropriate bit. <br /> <br /> 6. Install the router bit into the collet at least 3/4&quot; Always make sure the collet is clean before inserting a bit to prevent poor clamping issue. <br /> <br /> 7. Firmly lock the tool down using the router wrench. The nut will squeeze the collet down onto the router bit shank. You will need to use the spindle nut wrench and the spindle lock button. <br /> <br /> 8. Position the router onto your material. Loosen the spindle depth lock. Adjust the height of cutter engagement as desired and lock the spindle depth lock. <br /> <br /> 9. Make sure the power switch is in the OFF position. Verify the router cutter is clear and place the router on its side. Proceed to plug in the router.<br /> <br /> 10. Only handle the router with both hands on the handles. Move the router onto your material. Make sure the cutter does NOT make contact. <br /> <br /> 11. Turn on the power switch and let the router get up to speed. Slowly feed the cutter into the material until the bearing makes contact with the material edge. Keep the guide plate flat on your material and slowly feed the router opposite the direction of the spinning cutter. If you travel in the wrong direction the cutter will try to pull the router along. If you travel too slow the wood will start to burn. Traveling too fast will produce a poor cut. Be careful to keep the router from tilting when traveling along the edge and especially while traveling around a corner. <br /> <br /> 12. Power off the router after making your cut. Let the spindle stop turning before moving the router away from the work piece. <br /> <br /> 13. Place the router on its side and unplug the router to prevent an accidental power on condition. <br /> <br /> 14. Remove the router bit by using the wrench and spindle lock button. <br /> <br /> 15. Reset the space.<br /> <br /> ==Safety==<br /> *Be aware of the cutter location on a router at all times as it is fairly exposed. <br /> *Keep all body parts away from the cutter and make sure the motor has stopped before removing your hands from the handles. <br /> *Any equipment/tool that you don't handle safely is the most dangerous tool in the shop. <br /> *Don't attempt to use any router bits exceeding 1&quot; in diameter. <br /> *Never attempt to use the router without the base. <br /> <br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ble_8zw_C9w}}<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete the &lt;strong&gt;Wood Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> If you notice burning or dark coloration on the material it could be caused by feeding the cutter at too slow of a rate. A dull cutter can also cause material burning.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> * Make sure cutter bits are clean.<br /> * Remove and clean the collets as needed. <br /> * Make sure any adjustment screws are tight.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |N/A<br /> |N/A<br /> |N/A<br /> |}</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Foam_Cutter&diff=11828 2025-08-15T19:14:08Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Specific Maintenance Tasks */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=The Hub<br /> |Is used in domain=<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Proxxon<br /> |Has model=Thermocut 12E &amp; 115E<br /> |Has serial number=<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:Foam Cutter 2.png<br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has iconwname=<br /> |Has image=File:Foam_Cutter.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1296<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> The PROXXON THERMOCUT allows you to cut polystyrene (Styrofoam) in a clean and safe way without frayed edges or particulation. This foam cutter is deal for architects, designers, decorators, artists, and teachers. Examples include building architectural models, classic model railroads, plane and boat items, and numerous decorative items.<br /> <br /> The large table with 15 11/32&quot; x 11&quot; (390 x 280mm) ensures smooth and easy movement of the workpiece. The printed grid and protractor assist with division and cutting. The solid aluminum overarm has a 13 3/4&quot; (350mm) throat and offers 5 1/2&quot; (140mm) in height. The holder and wire coil (one spool of wire 98ft., 0.008&quot; diameter is included) may be shifted and adjusted along the overarm to enable miter cutting. An LED indicates operation and thus reminds you not to touch the hot wire to prevent burnt fingers (the wire heats to maximum in less than 1 second).<br /> <br /> Note:<br /> The correct temperature, being material and thickness dependent, is learned from experience. Profiles are ideally cut at lower temperatures and while applying less cutting force.<br /> <br /> Technical data:<br /> <br /> Cutting wire temperature: 210 - 390 °F (100 - 200 °C)<br /> Transformer secondary max: 10V at 1.0A<br /> Volts: 110 - 120V AC, 60 Hz<br /> Weight: 6.6 lb (3kg)<br /> <br /> Here is an example of the table in use. (Link takes you to YouTube - embedding not allowed for this video??)<br /> <br /> [[Image:PROXXON-ScrapbookSoup.png|500px|link=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OsWvjDkIM3o]]<br /> <br /> This is Proxxon's video for the hand-held cutter.<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KmPOKTFLppM}}<br /> <br /> This is Proxxon's video for the table-top cutter.<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KG5WxCzqXO8}}<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> There are two types of polystyrene foam best suited for processing with the Hot wire foam cutters and Hot knife cutters: extruded polystyrene (XPS foam), and expanded polystyrene (EPS foam). Although both types of insulation are comprised of polystyrene, the two types of manufacturing processes produce finished products with very different performance properties. XPS is manufactured in a continuous extrusion process that produces a homogeneous closed cell cross-section, whereas EPS is manufactured by expanding spherical beads in a mold, using heat and pressure to fuse the beads together.<br /> <br /> Some people like to use hot wire tools to cut nylon and polyethylene rope because it singes and seals the ends.<br /> <br /> [[File:Foam1.png|800px|thumb|right]]<br /> &lt;strong&gt;Anatomy of the Thermocut Foam Cutter&lt;/strong&gt;<br /> # On/Off switch<br /> # Temperature adjustment knob<br /> # Standby LED<br /> # Knurled screw for clamping the cutting wire<br /> # Overarm<br /> # Wire spool<br /> # Screw for wire spool<br /> # Spool carrier<br /> # Screw for spool carrier<br /> # Guide slot<br /> # Cutting Wire<br /> # Lower wire guide<br /> # Slot for angle stop<br /> # Angle gauge<br /> # Extension<br /> <br /> User Manual<br /> <br /> '''[[Media:37080_thermocut.pdf|Thermocut 115/e User Manual]]'''<br /> <br /> '''[[Media:37080_thermocut_parts.pdf|Thermocut 115/e Parts Diagram]]'''<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> <br /> A 0.2mm wire is heated using a safe 10V source, and this heated wire cuts through the polystyrene, melting it and providing a clean cut. By varying the amount of voltage on the wire (and thus current), the wire temperature can be varied between 100℃ - 200℃ (212℉ - 392℉).<br /> <br /> ''Assembling the THERMOCUT''<br /> # Fit the overarm 1 (Fig. 2) underneath the device by using the enclosed knurled screw.<br /> # Fasten the cable 2 to the overarm with the screw 3.<br /> # Tighten the screw well to ensure good electrical contact (10.5 volt low voltage).<br /> # Slide the spool carrier 8 (Fig. 1) on to the arm and fasten it with the screw 9.<br /> [[File:Foam2.png|400px|none]]<br /> <br /> ''Installing the cutting wire''<br /> # Switch off the device.<br /> # Carefully unwind the cutting wire approx. 8’’ (20 cm).<br /> # Open the lower wire guide by turning the knurled screw 4 (Fig. 1).<br /> # Thread the wire approx. 2’’ (5 cm) into the lower wire guide.<br /> # Clamp the wire by turning the knurled screw 4.<br /> # Push the overarm 5 lightly downwards with your left hand, thread the wire through the guide slot 10 and fasten the wire spool 6 so that the wire is slightly tensioned.<br /> # Release the arm. The wire is tensioned by the spring force of the arm.<br /> #Check that the wire is a right angle with work surface. Adjust, if necessary by sliding the spool carrier 8 or by bending the clamp. <br /> # Connect the mains plug. Your device is now ready for use.<br /> <br /> ''Cutting''<br /> # Switch on the device with the switch 1(Fig. 1).<br /> # Adjust the temperature with the regulator 2. The table on the front of the device serves as a guide. The best way to find the ideal temperature is to try different temperatures yourself. For simple, straightforward cuts you use a high temperature, for complicated shapes a lower temperature. <br /> # Now move the workpiece through the wire with a light pressure and even speed. Thick sections should be cut with a slower speed. Be aware that too high pressure in the direction of the cut when cutting complicated shapes will tend to bend the wire.<br /> <br /> Note: It is normal that the wire extends somewhat after being heated for the first time. Stretch the wire slightly by the first heating and tension it again. The wire will now retain its length.<br /> <br /> Note: Please note that too high temperatures will cause untidy edges.<br /> <br /> ''Miter cutting''&lt;br&gt;<br /> Miter cutting can be done in two ways with the THERMOCUT: by adjusting the spool carrier on the overarm or with the adjustable angle gauge.<br /> # To adjust the spool carrier, loosen the screws 1 and 2 (Fig. 3) and select the required angle by sliding the spool carrier. Tighten the screw 1 again and tension the wire as usual.<br /> <br /> Note: Adjusting the spool carrier will lengthen the heated part of the wire and thus increase the electrical resistance. The temperature must be adjusted accordingly.<br /> [[File:Foam3.png|400px|none]]<br /> Working with the stop:<br /> # Select the required miter on the angle stop and secure the adjustment with the screw 1 (Fig. 4).<br /> # Move the extension 2 so that you can pass the cutting wire without difficulty.<br /> # Press the workpiece against the stop and guide the stop along the slot 3.<br /> [[File:Foam 4.png|400px|none]]<br /> Note: The stop can be fixed for parallel cutting. Turn the screw 1 (Fig.5) to clamp the stop in the slot. Guide the workpiece past the cutting wire along the stop.<br /> [[File:Foam5.png|400px|none]]<br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> Pick an angle between 45 and 80 degrees, and set the hot wire to your desired angle by adjusting the spool carrier.<br /> <br /> Turn on the Thermocut and perform a miter cut on a scrap piece of foam.<br /> <br /> Reset the angle of the hot wire perpendicular to the table top.<br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> The tabletop foam cutter is best for performing straight, miter, and parallel cuts. Odd shapes and rounded features may be better cut with the handheld foam cutter. Only the handheld foam cutter can have its hot wire bent into odd shapes. Loosen the adjustment knobs and bend the wire to your liking.<br /> <br /> When you finish using a foam cutter, turn it off. The hot wire should cool down in a few seconds. Gently wipe down the hot wire with a soft cloth or paper towel to remove any leftover residue.<br /> <br /> If you are gluing foam together, cut the foam before the glue dries. The foam cutters will not work well through dried glue.<br /> <br /> Here are a few good videos to watch if you are building scenery with foam.<br /> <br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YV_NlGd6wZ4}}<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_qdGm7cVxE}}<br /> <br /> ==Safety==<br /> Clearly, getting burned by the hot wire is a safety concern. Don’t touch the hot wire. However, a much greater risk is the potential for dangerous fumes when cutting foams - especially foams other than polystyrene. It is very important that you verify that any other foams are safe to be cut.<br /> <br /> # Provide good ventilation, when using the device.<br /> # Observe the material suppliers safety instructions when cutting.<br /> # The cutting wire is hot. Risk of skin burn!<br /> # Do not use the device near curtains or other combustible materials.<br /> # Do not leave the device unattended when it is switched on.<br /> # Only use the supplied cutting wire or original PROXXON replacement wire, otherwise the transformer can become overloaded.<br /> # Switch off the device after use.<br /> <br /> Polyisocyanurate foam should not be cut with hot wire tools. It needs a ton of heat, gives off toxic fumes, and leaves a lot of melted plastic wherever it is cut. We recommend that the polyisocyanurate foams only be cut with a blade or saw.<br /> <br /> You can not cut through the spongy polyurethane foams used for upholstery. It beads off on the hot wire and gives off toxic fumes.<br /> <br /> ==Cut List==<br /> ===Approved Materials===<br /> * EPS/Expanded Polystyrene (Styrofoam)<br /> * XPS/Extruded Polystyrene (Styrofoam)<br /> * Owens Corning Pinkboard (Foamular)<br /> * DOW Blueboard<br /> * PE/polyethylene<br /> * PP/polypropylene<br /> <br /> ===DO NOT CUT===<br /> * Polyurethane foams<br /> * Polyisocyanurate foam<br /> * Items that are not foam<br /> <br /> If you want to cut a material not listed here, please talk with the Maker Hub staff.<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete &lt;strong&gt;The Hub - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> * When cutting double miter (e.g. roof), don’t remove the cut off part after the first cutting. Use it as an underlay for the second cut.<br /> * The wire has a higher temperature at the exit side of the workpiece, which may cause surface melting. To prevent this, the wire can be cooled by blowing on it.<br /> * Small sections of long profiles can best be cut by laying a waste piece 1 (Fig. 6) between the stop and the work piece and then cutting against the stop. The cutting wire then cuts into the waste piece and the edges remain clean.<br /> [[File:Foam6.png|400px|none]]<br /> * You can make a simple device yourself for cutting circular segments. Fix a drawing-pin at the center of the required circle on the working table with a piece of tape. Fix the workpiece onto the pin and turn the workpiece around the pin (Fig. 7).<br /> [[File:Foam7.png|400px|none]]<br /> * The cutting wire normally breaks above the guide bushing. Insert the wire a few inches further in the lower wire guide and fasten it again at regular intervals to prevent the wire from breaking. If the wire breaks, loosen the clamping knob and remove the broken piece. Then loosen the spool screw, pull out more wire and place it into the wire hole. Re-tighten all of the screws.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> Clean the wire and the bushing regularly to prevent unnecessary evaporation of polystyrene residue. Caution: First switch off the device!<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |N/A<br /> |N/A<br /> |N/A<br /> |}</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Dissolvable_Support_Bath&diff=11827 2025-08-15T19:11:16Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Certification */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab<br /> |Is used in domain=Electronics<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Support Cleaning Apparatus<br /> |Has model=1200HT<br /> |Has serial number=8121546<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:Dissolvable support bath (1).png<br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has iconwname=<br /> |Has image=File:Dissolvable Support Bath.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=This is a Dissolving Support Bath.<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=<br /> |Has group=<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}} <br /> <br /> Ace: Ellie Annah (estrauss21@georgefox.edu).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> The Dissolvable Support Bath is a heated, circulating water tank designed to remove dissolvable support material from 3D-printed parts. Operating at high temperatures for faster material breakdown, it uses controlled agitation to evenly expose all surfaces, ensuring efficient and thorough cleaning without damaging delicate features.<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> *MSDS - Material Safety Data Sheet<br /> <br /> ====User Manual====<br /> <br /> [[Media:Sca 1200 ht.pdf|Dissovable Support Bath User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> Using the Dissolvable support bath is very simple. During the busy times of the semester, the bath will be left on but if it is not on then turn it on using the control panel. Next, wait for the bath to heat up completely and then place your part in it using appropriate safety attire. It may be helpful to place the part in a mesh bag, remove the basket from the bath, and tie the bag to the bottom of the basket to keep the part completely submerged. Periodically check the part until all support has been dissolved. Always wear safety equipment when opening the bath. The bath is only to be used for ABS models with QSR dissolvable support. PLA placed into the bath will become brittle and break apart, ruining the prints. <br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> Use the correct safety procedures to place a printed part in the bath. <br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> <br /> #ALWAYS USE SAFETY ATTIRE (see safety for requirements).<br /> <br /> #Flip the rocker switch on the bottom right to turn the bath on.<br /> #Select the temperature that correlates to your print material (70 degrees for ABS) and press the power button to begin the heating process.<br /> #Keep the lid shut as much as possible.<br /> #Place the part inside of a mesh bag, tie the strings of the mesh bag to the side handles, allow the part to soak in the bath for several hours.<br /> #*Mesh bags are located in the small drawer next to the sink.<br /> <br /> ''When removing parts:''<br /> <br /> #When the soaking step is completed, the basket can be lifted out and removed so that parts can be sifted through in the air instead of the solution. If you do remove basket, remove the lid first and place it in the sink. Next, lift the basket, let it drain above the bath so that it drips into the bath, then once it is barley dripping, the basket can be transferred to the sink.<br /> #Wash the mesh bag and part thoroughly. Use paper towels to dry the part and let the part sit on paper towels and drain for a couple hours. Always inform the part's creator to wash their hands after handling the part and before eating or touching their eyes/face.<br /> #Replace the basket and lid.<br /> <br /> ==Safety==<br /> <br /> *Only Prototype Lab Mentors are allowed to use the Bath for safety concerns.<br /> *Required safety attire is a lab coat, safety goggles, and heat/chemical protecting gloves.<br /> *Only the Ace of the Bath and the Aces of the Prototype Lab (and Justin) are allowed to drain the tank and replenish it with a new solution of EcoWorks cleaning agent.<br /> *Wash your hands after using the bath and after touching parts that have been removed from the bath within the past 24 hours.<br /> *All parts that come out of the bath should be washed and left to dry/drain excess fluid for at least an hour.<br /> *All spills should be immediately reported to Justin and the Aces of the Prototype Lab.<br /> *Follow the MSDS procedure in the event of getting Sodium Hydroxide on your skin, in your eyes, or if you ingest it.<br /> *The MSDS is located next to the sink in a bright yellow binder hanging on the wall. It includes the fluids the Prototype Lab uses that could be dangerous when humans are exposed to them. The MSDS also details what to do if the fluid is ingested, gets in your eyes or on your skin, and other pertinent information.<br /> <br /> ==Approved Materials==<br /> <br /> Please check the [[Formlabs 3D Printer|FormLabs Resin Printer Approved Material List]].<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> <br /> Should be trained on simultaneously with the [[Formlabs 3D Printer|FormLabs Resin Printer]].<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> <br /> *'''What to do if the bath is beeping:'''<br /> **This typically means the bath is low on water (see page 17 of the user manual).<br /> **Take the clear bucket under the sink and use it to fill the bath until the fluid level inside is about 0.5&quot; below the max fill line.<br /> **Tell the Bath Ace if you think the solution should be switched, do not do it yourself.<br /> **The bath may be sending out an error message in which case the Instruction Manual should be consulted.<br /> *'''What to do if the bath appears to be leaking:'''<br /> **Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab and/or Justin.<br /> *'''What to do in the event of a spill:'''<br /> **Evacuate the lab and shut it down until the spill has been properly cleaned.<br /> **Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab; if unavailable and the spill is large then contact Security.<br /> **Use the spill kit.<br /> ***Follow instructions inside the kit.<br /> ***Make sure you are wearing safety attire.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> Like many machines in the Maker Hub, the bath must be periodically wiped down to keep it clean and working properly. This also removes spots created by the Sodium Hydroxide. Also, there is a limit to how much support material can be dissolved and once it has been reached the tank must be emptied and refilled with new Sodium Hydroxide solution. <br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> !Last Done<br /> |-<br /> |1<br /> |Wipe down the machine<br /> |As neeeded<br /> |Lab Volunteer<br /> |N/A<br /> |-<br /> |2<br /> |Change the Bath Solution<br /> |When the bath starts taking a very long time to dissolve support material<br /> |Lab Volunteer<br /> |1/23/20<br /> |-<br /> |3<br /> |Refill Sodium Hydroxide Bottles<br /> |If there is only one full bottle remaining<br /> |Lab Volunteer<br /> |}2. '''How to change the solution in the bath:'''<br /> <br /> *Wear safety attire during the entire process.<br /> *Retrieve a barrel to drain the fluid into.<br /> *Remove the blue silicone cap.<br /> *Align the barrel opening to be underneath the drain spout.<br /> *Open the ball valve so the fluid begins to drain.<br /> *Completely drain all of the fluid.<br /> *''Clean the inside of the tank'':<br /> **Use water to rinse out the inside of the tank then use paper towels to wipe out the gunk.<br /> **Be sure to also clean the basket thoroughly.<br /> **Replace the basket.<br /> *Fill the bath up with water (use the clear bucket under the sink, fill this with water from the sink, pour the water into the bath) until the water level reaches about 0.5&quot; below the max fill line<br /> *Gather 6 packages of EcoWorks (1 package consists of part A and part B).<br /> *Inside each package the powder is in dissoluble bags, gently place all bags from the 6 packages into the water.<br /> *Turn the bath on and allow it to heat up to 70 degrees Celsius.<br /> <br /> 3. '''How to fill new Sodium Hydroxide bottles:'''<br /> <br /> *Wear a lab coat, nitrile gloves, and safety goggles. This is very important. The granule Sodium Hydroxide (undiluted--undissolved) is much more dangerous.<br /> *There should be a mini funnel in the lab somewhere (it tends to move around some). Use the large Sodium Hydroxide bottle and mini funnel to refill the small bottles to the same level as the last remaining bottle. Always leave one bottle filled as a gauge for where to refill to. If a bottle has not been left filled, then fill the small bottle to about 1.5 inches below where the narrowing of the bottle begins.</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Dissolvable_Support_Bath&diff=11826 2025-08-15T19:11:02Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Approved Materials */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab<br /> |Is used in domain=Electronics<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Support Cleaning Apparatus<br /> |Has model=1200HT<br /> |Has serial number=8121546<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:Dissolvable support bath (1).png<br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has iconwname=<br /> |Has image=File:Dissolvable Support Bath.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=This is a Dissolving Support Bath.<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=<br /> |Has group=<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}} <br /> <br /> Ace: Ellie Annah (estrauss21@georgefox.edu).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> The Dissolvable Support Bath is a heated, circulating water tank designed to remove dissolvable support material from 3D-printed parts. Operating at high temperatures for faster material breakdown, it uses controlled agitation to evenly expose all surfaces, ensuring efficient and thorough cleaning without damaging delicate features.<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> *MSDS - Material Safety Data Sheet<br /> <br /> ====User Manual====<br /> <br /> [[Media:Sca 1200 ht.pdf|Dissovable Support Bath User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> Using the Dissolvable support bath is very simple. During the busy times of the semester, the bath will be left on but if it is not on then turn it on using the control panel. Next, wait for the bath to heat up completely and then place your part in it using appropriate safety attire. It may be helpful to place the part in a mesh bag, remove the basket from the bath, and tie the bag to the bottom of the basket to keep the part completely submerged. Periodically check the part until all support has been dissolved. Always wear safety equipment when opening the bath. The bath is only to be used for ABS models with QSR dissolvable support. PLA placed into the bath will become brittle and break apart, ruining the prints. <br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> Use the correct safety procedures to place a printed part in the bath. <br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> <br /> #ALWAYS USE SAFETY ATTIRE (see safety for requirements).<br /> <br /> #Flip the rocker switch on the bottom right to turn the bath on.<br /> #Select the temperature that correlates to your print material (70 degrees for ABS) and press the power button to begin the heating process.<br /> #Keep the lid shut as much as possible.<br /> #Place the part inside of a mesh bag, tie the strings of the mesh bag to the side handles, allow the part to soak in the bath for several hours.<br /> #*Mesh bags are located in the small drawer next to the sink.<br /> <br /> ''When removing parts:''<br /> <br /> #When the soaking step is completed, the basket can be lifted out and removed so that parts can be sifted through in the air instead of the solution. If you do remove basket, remove the lid first and place it in the sink. Next, lift the basket, let it drain above the bath so that it drips into the bath, then once it is barley dripping, the basket can be transferred to the sink.<br /> #Wash the mesh bag and part thoroughly. Use paper towels to dry the part and let the part sit on paper towels and drain for a couple hours. Always inform the part's creator to wash their hands after handling the part and before eating or touching their eyes/face.<br /> #Replace the basket and lid.<br /> <br /> ==Safety==<br /> <br /> *Only Prototype Lab Mentors are allowed to use the Bath for safety concerns.<br /> *Required safety attire is a lab coat, safety goggles, and heat/chemical protecting gloves.<br /> *Only the Ace of the Bath and the Aces of the Prototype Lab (and Justin) are allowed to drain the tank and replenish it with a new solution of EcoWorks cleaning agent.<br /> *Wash your hands after using the bath and after touching parts that have been removed from the bath within the past 24 hours.<br /> *All parts that come out of the bath should be washed and left to dry/drain excess fluid for at least an hour.<br /> *All spills should be immediately reported to Justin and the Aces of the Prototype Lab.<br /> *Follow the MSDS procedure in the event of getting Sodium Hydroxide on your skin, in your eyes, or if you ingest it.<br /> *The MSDS is located next to the sink in a bright yellow binder hanging on the wall. It includes the fluids the Prototype Lab uses that could be dangerous when humans are exposed to them. The MSDS also details what to do if the fluid is ingested, gets in your eyes or on your skin, and other pertinent information.<br /> <br /> ==Approved Materials==<br /> <br /> Please check the [[Formlabs 3D Printer|FormLabs Resin Printer Approved Material List]].<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> <br /> Should be trained on simultaneously with the [[Formlabs 3D Printer|Form 3 Resin Printer]].<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> <br /> *'''What to do if the bath is beeping:'''<br /> **This typically means the bath is low on water (see page 17 of the user manual).<br /> **Take the clear bucket under the sink and use it to fill the bath until the fluid level inside is about 0.5&quot; below the max fill line.<br /> **Tell the Bath Ace if you think the solution should be switched, do not do it yourself.<br /> **The bath may be sending out an error message in which case the Instruction Manual should be consulted.<br /> *'''What to do if the bath appears to be leaking:'''<br /> **Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab and/or Justin.<br /> *'''What to do in the event of a spill:'''<br /> **Evacuate the lab and shut it down until the spill has been properly cleaned.<br /> **Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab; if unavailable and the spill is large then contact Security.<br /> **Use the spill kit.<br /> ***Follow instructions inside the kit.<br /> ***Make sure you are wearing safety attire.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> Like many machines in the Maker Hub, the bath must be periodically wiped down to keep it clean and working properly. This also removes spots created by the Sodium Hydroxide. Also, there is a limit to how much support material can be dissolved and once it has been reached the tank must be emptied and refilled with new Sodium Hydroxide solution. <br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> !Last Done<br /> |-<br /> |1<br /> |Wipe down the machine<br /> |As neeeded<br /> |Lab Volunteer<br /> |N/A<br /> |-<br /> |2<br /> |Change the Bath Solution<br /> |When the bath starts taking a very long time to dissolve support material<br /> |Lab Volunteer<br /> |1/23/20<br /> |-<br /> |3<br /> |Refill Sodium Hydroxide Bottles<br /> |If there is only one full bottle remaining<br /> |Lab Volunteer<br /> |}2. '''How to change the solution in the bath:'''<br /> <br /> *Wear safety attire during the entire process.<br /> *Retrieve a barrel to drain the fluid into.<br /> *Remove the blue silicone cap.<br /> *Align the barrel opening to be underneath the drain spout.<br /> *Open the ball valve so the fluid begins to drain.<br /> *Completely drain all of the fluid.<br /> *''Clean the inside of the tank'':<br /> **Use water to rinse out the inside of the tank then use paper towels to wipe out the gunk.<br /> **Be sure to also clean the basket thoroughly.<br /> **Replace the basket.<br /> *Fill the bath up with water (use the clear bucket under the sink, fill this with water from the sink, pour the water into the bath) until the water level reaches about 0.5&quot; below the max fill line<br /> *Gather 6 packages of EcoWorks (1 package consists of part A and part B).<br /> *Inside each package the powder is in dissoluble bags, gently place all bags from the 6 packages into the water.<br /> *Turn the bath on and allow it to heat up to 70 degrees Celsius.<br /> <br /> 3. '''How to fill new Sodium Hydroxide bottles:'''<br /> <br /> *Wear a lab coat, nitrile gloves, and safety goggles. This is very important. The granule Sodium Hydroxide (undiluted--undissolved) is much more dangerous.<br /> *There should be a mini funnel in the lab somewhere (it tends to move around some). Use the large Sodium Hydroxide bottle and mini funnel to refill the small bottles to the same level as the last remaining bottle. Always leave one bottle filled as a gauge for where to refill to. If a bottle has not been left filled, then fill the small bottle to about 1.5 inches below where the narrowing of the bottle begins.</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Dissolvable_Support_Bath&diff=11825 2025-08-15T19:10:27Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Approved Materials */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab<br /> |Is used in domain=Electronics<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Support Cleaning Apparatus<br /> |Has model=1200HT<br /> |Has serial number=8121546<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:Dissolvable support bath (1).png<br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has iconwname=<br /> |Has image=File:Dissolvable Support Bath.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=This is a Dissolving Support Bath.<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=<br /> |Has group=<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}} <br /> <br /> Ace: Ellie Annah (estrauss21@georgefox.edu).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> The Dissolvable Support Bath is a heated, circulating water tank designed to remove dissolvable support material from 3D-printed parts. Operating at high temperatures for faster material breakdown, it uses controlled agitation to evenly expose all surfaces, ensuring efficient and thorough cleaning without damaging delicate features.<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> *MSDS - Material Safety Data Sheet<br /> <br /> ====User Manual====<br /> <br /> [[Media:Sca 1200 ht.pdf|Dissovable Support Bath User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> Using the Dissolvable support bath is very simple. During the busy times of the semester, the bath will be left on but if it is not on then turn it on using the control panel. Next, wait for the bath to heat up completely and then place your part in it using appropriate safety attire. It may be helpful to place the part in a mesh bag, remove the basket from the bath, and tie the bag to the bottom of the basket to keep the part completely submerged. Periodically check the part until all support has been dissolved. Always wear safety equipment when opening the bath. The bath is only to be used for ABS models with QSR dissolvable support. PLA placed into the bath will become brittle and break apart, ruining the prints. <br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> Use the correct safety procedures to place a printed part in the bath. <br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> <br /> #ALWAYS USE SAFETY ATTIRE (see safety for requirements).<br /> <br /> #Flip the rocker switch on the bottom right to turn the bath on.<br /> #Select the temperature that correlates to your print material (70 degrees for ABS) and press the power button to begin the heating process.<br /> #Keep the lid shut as much as possible.<br /> #Place the part inside of a mesh bag, tie the strings of the mesh bag to the side handles, allow the part to soak in the bath for several hours.<br /> #*Mesh bags are located in the small drawer next to the sink.<br /> <br /> ''When removing parts:''<br /> <br /> #When the soaking step is completed, the basket can be lifted out and removed so that parts can be sifted through in the air instead of the solution. If you do remove basket, remove the lid first and place it in the sink. Next, lift the basket, let it drain above the bath so that it drips into the bath, then once it is barley dripping, the basket can be transferred to the sink.<br /> #Wash the mesh bag and part thoroughly. Use paper towels to dry the part and let the part sit on paper towels and drain for a couple hours. Always inform the part's creator to wash their hands after handling the part and before eating or touching their eyes/face.<br /> #Replace the basket and lid.<br /> <br /> ==Safety==<br /> <br /> *Only Prototype Lab Mentors are allowed to use the Bath for safety concerns.<br /> *Required safety attire is a lab coat, safety goggles, and heat/chemical protecting gloves.<br /> *Only the Ace of the Bath and the Aces of the Prototype Lab (and Justin) are allowed to drain the tank and replenish it with a new solution of EcoWorks cleaning agent.<br /> *Wash your hands after using the bath and after touching parts that have been removed from the bath within the past 24 hours.<br /> *All parts that come out of the bath should be washed and left to dry/drain excess fluid for at least an hour.<br /> *All spills should be immediately reported to Justin and the Aces of the Prototype Lab.<br /> *Follow the MSDS procedure in the event of getting Sodium Hydroxide on your skin, in your eyes, or if you ingest it.<br /> *The MSDS is located next to the sink in a bright yellow binder hanging on the wall. It includes the fluids the Prototype Lab uses that could be dangerous when humans are exposed to them. The MSDS also details what to do if the fluid is ingested, gets in your eyes or on your skin, and other pertinent information.<br /> <br /> ==Approved Materials==<br /> <br /> Please check the [[Formlabs 3D Printer|Form 3 Resin Printer Approved Material List]].<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> <br /> Should be trained on simultaneously with the [[Formlabs 3D Printer|Form 3 Resin Printer]].<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> <br /> *'''What to do if the bath is beeping:'''<br /> **This typically means the bath is low on water (see page 17 of the user manual).<br /> **Take the clear bucket under the sink and use it to fill the bath until the fluid level inside is about 0.5&quot; below the max fill line.<br /> **Tell the Bath Ace if you think the solution should be switched, do not do it yourself.<br /> **The bath may be sending out an error message in which case the Instruction Manual should be consulted.<br /> *'''What to do if the bath appears to be leaking:'''<br /> **Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab and/or Justin.<br /> *'''What to do in the event of a spill:'''<br /> **Evacuate the lab and shut it down until the spill has been properly cleaned.<br /> **Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab; if unavailable and the spill is large then contact Security.<br /> **Use the spill kit.<br /> ***Follow instructions inside the kit.<br /> ***Make sure you are wearing safety attire.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> Like many machines in the Maker Hub, the bath must be periodically wiped down to keep it clean and working properly. This also removes spots created by the Sodium Hydroxide. Also, there is a limit to how much support material can be dissolved and once it has been reached the tank must be emptied and refilled with new Sodium Hydroxide solution. <br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> !Last Done<br /> |-<br /> |1<br /> |Wipe down the machine<br /> |As neeeded<br /> |Lab Volunteer<br /> |N/A<br /> |-<br /> |2<br /> |Change the Bath Solution<br /> |When the bath starts taking a very long time to dissolve support material<br /> |Lab Volunteer<br /> |1/23/20<br /> |-<br /> |3<br /> |Refill Sodium Hydroxide Bottles<br /> |If there is only one full bottle remaining<br /> |Lab Volunteer<br /> |}2. '''How to change the solution in the bath:'''<br /> <br /> *Wear safety attire during the entire process.<br /> *Retrieve a barrel to drain the fluid into.<br /> *Remove the blue silicone cap.<br /> *Align the barrel opening to be underneath the drain spout.<br /> *Open the ball valve so the fluid begins to drain.<br /> *Completely drain all of the fluid.<br /> *''Clean the inside of the tank'':<br /> **Use water to rinse out the inside of the tank then use paper towels to wipe out the gunk.<br /> **Be sure to also clean the basket thoroughly.<br /> **Replace the basket.<br /> *Fill the bath up with water (use the clear bucket under the sink, fill this with water from the sink, pour the water into the bath) until the water level reaches about 0.5&quot; below the max fill line<br /> *Gather 6 packages of EcoWorks (1 package consists of part A and part B).<br /> *Inside each package the powder is in dissoluble bags, gently place all bags from the 6 packages into the water.<br /> *Turn the bath on and allow it to heat up to 70 degrees Celsius.<br /> <br /> 3. '''How to fill new Sodium Hydroxide bottles:'''<br /> <br /> *Wear a lab coat, nitrile gloves, and safety goggles. This is very important. The granule Sodium Hydroxide (undiluted--undissolved) is much more dangerous.<br /> *There should be a mini funnel in the lab somewhere (it tends to move around some). Use the large Sodium Hydroxide bottle and mini funnel to refill the small bottles to the same level as the last remaining bottle. Always leave one bottle filled as a gauge for where to refill to. If a bottle has not been left filled, then fill the small bottle to about 1.5 inches below where the narrowing of the bottle begins.</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Dissolvable_Support_Bath&diff=11824 2025-08-15T19:09:50Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Certification */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab<br /> |Is used in domain=Electronics<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Support Cleaning Apparatus<br /> |Has model=1200HT<br /> |Has serial number=8121546<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:Dissolvable support bath (1).png<br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has iconwname=<br /> |Has image=File:Dissolvable Support Bath.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=This is a Dissolving Support Bath.<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=<br /> |Has group=<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}} <br /> <br /> Ace: Ellie Annah (estrauss21@georgefox.edu).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> The Dissolvable Support Bath is a heated, circulating water tank designed to remove dissolvable support material from 3D-printed parts. Operating at high temperatures for faster material breakdown, it uses controlled agitation to evenly expose all surfaces, ensuring efficient and thorough cleaning without damaging delicate features.<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> *MSDS - Material Safety Data Sheet<br /> <br /> ====User Manual====<br /> <br /> [[Media:Sca 1200 ht.pdf|Dissovable Support Bath User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> Using the Dissolvable support bath is very simple. During the busy times of the semester, the bath will be left on but if it is not on then turn it on using the control panel. Next, wait for the bath to heat up completely and then place your part in it using appropriate safety attire. It may be helpful to place the part in a mesh bag, remove the basket from the bath, and tie the bag to the bottom of the basket to keep the part completely submerged. Periodically check the part until all support has been dissolved. Always wear safety equipment when opening the bath. The bath is only to be used for ABS models with QSR dissolvable support. PLA placed into the bath will become brittle and break apart, ruining the prints. <br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> Use the correct safety procedures to place a printed part in the bath. <br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> <br /> #ALWAYS USE SAFETY ATTIRE (see safety for requirements).<br /> <br /> #Flip the rocker switch on the bottom right to turn the bath on.<br /> #Select the temperature that correlates to your print material (70 degrees for ABS) and press the power button to begin the heating process.<br /> #Keep the lid shut as much as possible.<br /> #Place the part inside of a mesh bag, tie the strings of the mesh bag to the side handles, allow the part to soak in the bath for several hours.<br /> #*Mesh bags are located in the small drawer next to the sink.<br /> <br /> ''When removing parts:''<br /> <br /> #When the soaking step is completed, the basket can be lifted out and removed so that parts can be sifted through in the air instead of the solution. If you do remove basket, remove the lid first and place it in the sink. Next, lift the basket, let it drain above the bath so that it drips into the bath, then once it is barley dripping, the basket can be transferred to the sink.<br /> #Wash the mesh bag and part thoroughly. Use paper towels to dry the part and let the part sit on paper towels and drain for a couple hours. Always inform the part's creator to wash their hands after handling the part and before eating or touching their eyes/face.<br /> #Replace the basket and lid.<br /> <br /> ==Safety==<br /> <br /> *Only Prototype Lab Mentors are allowed to use the Bath for safety concerns.<br /> *Required safety attire is a lab coat, safety goggles, and heat/chemical protecting gloves.<br /> *Only the Ace of the Bath and the Aces of the Prototype Lab (and Justin) are allowed to drain the tank and replenish it with a new solution of EcoWorks cleaning agent.<br /> *Wash your hands after using the bath and after touching parts that have been removed from the bath within the past 24 hours.<br /> *All parts that come out of the bath should be washed and left to dry/drain excess fluid for at least an hour.<br /> *All spills should be immediately reported to Justin and the Aces of the Prototype Lab.<br /> *Follow the MSDS procedure in the event of getting Sodium Hydroxide on your skin, in your eyes, or if you ingest it.<br /> *The MSDS is located next to the sink in a bright yellow binder hanging on the wall. It includes the fluids the Prototype Lab uses that could be dangerous when humans are exposed to them. The MSDS also details what to do if the fluid is ingested, gets in your eyes or on your skin, and other pertinent information.<br /> <br /> ==Approved Materials==<br /> <br /> Please check the Form 3 Resin Printer Approved Material List.<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> <br /> Should be trained on simultaneously with the [[Formlabs 3D Printer|Form 3 Resin Printer]].<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> <br /> *'''What to do if the bath is beeping:'''<br /> **This typically means the bath is low on water (see page 17 of the user manual).<br /> **Take the clear bucket under the sink and use it to fill the bath until the fluid level inside is about 0.5&quot; below the max fill line.<br /> **Tell the Bath Ace if you think the solution should be switched, do not do it yourself.<br /> **The bath may be sending out an error message in which case the Instruction Manual should be consulted.<br /> *'''What to do if the bath appears to be leaking:'''<br /> **Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab and/or Justin.<br /> *'''What to do in the event of a spill:'''<br /> **Evacuate the lab and shut it down until the spill has been properly cleaned.<br /> **Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab; if unavailable and the spill is large then contact Security.<br /> **Use the spill kit.<br /> ***Follow instructions inside the kit.<br /> ***Make sure you are wearing safety attire.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> Like many machines in the Maker Hub, the bath must be periodically wiped down to keep it clean and working properly. This also removes spots created by the Sodium Hydroxide. Also, there is a limit to how much support material can be dissolved and once it has been reached the tank must be emptied and refilled with new Sodium Hydroxide solution. <br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> !Last Done<br /> |-<br /> |1<br /> |Wipe down the machine<br /> |As neeeded<br /> |Lab Volunteer<br /> |N/A<br /> |-<br /> |2<br /> |Change the Bath Solution<br /> |When the bath starts taking a very long time to dissolve support material<br /> |Lab Volunteer<br /> |1/23/20<br /> |-<br /> |3<br /> |Refill Sodium Hydroxide Bottles<br /> |If there is only one full bottle remaining<br /> |Lab Volunteer<br /> |}2. '''How to change the solution in the bath:'''<br /> <br /> *Wear safety attire during the entire process.<br /> *Retrieve a barrel to drain the fluid into.<br /> *Remove the blue silicone cap.<br /> *Align the barrel opening to be underneath the drain spout.<br /> *Open the ball valve so the fluid begins to drain.<br /> *Completely drain all of the fluid.<br /> *''Clean the inside of the tank'':<br /> **Use water to rinse out the inside of the tank then use paper towels to wipe out the gunk.<br /> **Be sure to also clean the basket thoroughly.<br /> **Replace the basket.<br /> *Fill the bath up with water (use the clear bucket under the sink, fill this with water from the sink, pour the water into the bath) until the water level reaches about 0.5&quot; below the max fill line<br /> *Gather 6 packages of EcoWorks (1 package consists of part A and part B).<br /> *Inside each package the powder is in dissoluble bags, gently place all bags from the 6 packages into the water.<br /> *Turn the bath on and allow it to heat up to 70 degrees Celsius.<br /> <br /> 3. '''How to fill new Sodium Hydroxide bottles:'''<br /> <br /> *Wear a lab coat, nitrile gloves, and safety goggles. This is very important. The granule Sodium Hydroxide (undiluted--undissolved) is much more dangerous.<br /> *There should be a mini funnel in the lab somewhere (it tends to move around some). Use the large Sodium Hydroxide bottle and mini funnel to refill the small bottles to the same level as the last remaining bottle. Always leave one bottle filled as a gauge for where to refill to. If a bottle has not been left filled, then fill the small bottle to about 1.5 inches below where the narrowing of the bottle begins.</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Dissolvable_Support_Bath&diff=11823 2025-08-15T19:07:55Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Approved Materials */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab<br /> |Is used in domain=Electronics<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Support Cleaning Apparatus<br /> |Has model=1200HT<br /> |Has serial number=8121546<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:Dissolvable support bath (1).png<br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has iconwname=<br /> |Has image=File:Dissolvable Support Bath.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=This is a Dissolving Support Bath.<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=<br /> |Has group=<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}} <br /> <br /> Ace: Ellie Annah (estrauss21@georgefox.edu).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> The Dissolvable Support Bath is a heated, circulating water tank designed to remove dissolvable support material from 3D-printed parts. Operating at high temperatures for faster material breakdown, it uses controlled agitation to evenly expose all surfaces, ensuring efficient and thorough cleaning without damaging delicate features.<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> *MSDS - Material Safety Data Sheet<br /> <br /> ====User Manual====<br /> <br /> [[Media:Sca 1200 ht.pdf|Dissovable Support Bath User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> Using the Dissolvable support bath is very simple. During the busy times of the semester, the bath will be left on but if it is not on then turn it on using the control panel. Next, wait for the bath to heat up completely and then place your part in it using appropriate safety attire. It may be helpful to place the part in a mesh bag, remove the basket from the bath, and tie the bag to the bottom of the basket to keep the part completely submerged. Periodically check the part until all support has been dissolved. Always wear safety equipment when opening the bath. The bath is only to be used for ABS models with QSR dissolvable support. PLA placed into the bath will become brittle and break apart, ruining the prints. <br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> Use the correct safety procedures to place a printed part in the bath. <br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> <br /> #ALWAYS USE SAFETY ATTIRE (see safety for requirements).<br /> <br /> #Flip the rocker switch on the bottom right to turn the bath on.<br /> #Select the temperature that correlates to your print material (70 degrees for ABS) and press the power button to begin the heating process.<br /> #Keep the lid shut as much as possible.<br /> #Place the part inside of a mesh bag, tie the strings of the mesh bag to the side handles, allow the part to soak in the bath for several hours.<br /> #*Mesh bags are located in the small drawer next to the sink.<br /> <br /> ''When removing parts:''<br /> <br /> #When the soaking step is completed, the basket can be lifted out and removed so that parts can be sifted through in the air instead of the solution. If you do remove basket, remove the lid first and place it in the sink. Next, lift the basket, let it drain above the bath so that it drips into the bath, then once it is barley dripping, the basket can be transferred to the sink.<br /> #Wash the mesh bag and part thoroughly. Use paper towels to dry the part and let the part sit on paper towels and drain for a couple hours. Always inform the part's creator to wash their hands after handling the part and before eating or touching their eyes/face.<br /> #Replace the basket and lid.<br /> <br /> ==Safety==<br /> <br /> *Only Prototype Lab Mentors are allowed to use the Bath for safety concerns.<br /> *Required safety attire is a lab coat, safety goggles, and heat/chemical protecting gloves.<br /> *Only the Ace of the Bath and the Aces of the Prototype Lab (and Justin) are allowed to drain the tank and replenish it with a new solution of EcoWorks cleaning agent.<br /> *Wash your hands after using the bath and after touching parts that have been removed from the bath within the past 24 hours.<br /> *All parts that come out of the bath should be washed and left to dry/drain excess fluid for at least an hour.<br /> *All spills should be immediately reported to Justin and the Aces of the Prototype Lab.<br /> *Follow the MSDS procedure in the event of getting Sodium Hydroxide on your skin, in your eyes, or if you ingest it.<br /> *The MSDS is located next to the sink in a bright yellow binder hanging on the wall. It includes the fluids the Prototype Lab uses that could be dangerous when humans are exposed to them. The MSDS also details what to do if the fluid is ingested, gets in your eyes or on your skin, and other pertinent information.<br /> <br /> ==Approved Materials==<br /> <br /> Please check the Form 3 Resin Printer Approved Material List.<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> <br /> Should be trained on simultaneously with the Form 3 Resin Printer.<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> <br /> *'''What to do if the bath is beeping:'''<br /> **This typically means the bath is low on water (see page 17 of the user manual).<br /> **Take the clear bucket under the sink and use it to fill the bath until the fluid level inside is about 0.5&quot; below the max fill line.<br /> **Tell the Bath Ace if you think the solution should be switched, do not do it yourself.<br /> **The bath may be sending out an error message in which case the Instruction Manual should be consulted.<br /> *'''What to do if the bath appears to be leaking:'''<br /> **Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab and/or Justin.<br /> *'''What to do in the event of a spill:'''<br /> **Evacuate the lab and shut it down until the spill has been properly cleaned.<br /> **Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab; if unavailable and the spill is large then contact Security.<br /> **Use the spill kit.<br /> ***Follow instructions inside the kit.<br /> ***Make sure you are wearing safety attire.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> Like many machines in the Maker Hub, the bath must be periodically wiped down to keep it clean and working properly. This also removes spots created by the Sodium Hydroxide. Also, there is a limit to how much support material can be dissolved and once it has been reached the tank must be emptied and refilled with new Sodium Hydroxide solution. <br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> !Last Done<br /> |-<br /> |1<br /> |Wipe down the machine<br /> |As neeeded<br /> |Lab Volunteer<br /> |N/A<br /> |-<br /> |2<br /> |Change the Bath Solution<br /> |When the bath starts taking a very long time to dissolve support material<br /> |Lab Volunteer<br /> |1/23/20<br /> |-<br /> |3<br /> |Refill Sodium Hydroxide Bottles<br /> |If there is only one full bottle remaining<br /> |Lab Volunteer<br /> |}2. '''How to change the solution in the bath:'''<br /> <br /> *Wear safety attire during the entire process.<br /> *Retrieve a barrel to drain the fluid into.<br /> *Remove the blue silicone cap.<br /> *Align the barrel opening to be underneath the drain spout.<br /> *Open the ball valve so the fluid begins to drain.<br /> *Completely drain all of the fluid.<br /> *''Clean the inside of the tank'':<br /> **Use water to rinse out the inside of the tank then use paper towels to wipe out the gunk.<br /> **Be sure to also clean the basket thoroughly.<br /> **Replace the basket.<br /> *Fill the bath up with water (use the clear bucket under the sink, fill this with water from the sink, pour the water into the bath) until the water level reaches about 0.5&quot; below the max fill line<br /> *Gather 6 packages of EcoWorks (1 package consists of part A and part B).<br /> *Inside each package the powder is in dissoluble bags, gently place all bags from the 6 packages into the water.<br /> *Turn the bath on and allow it to heat up to 70 degrees Celsius.<br /> <br /> 3. '''How to fill new Sodium Hydroxide bottles:'''<br /> <br /> *Wear a lab coat, nitrile gloves, and safety goggles. This is very important. The granule Sodium Hydroxide (undiluted--undissolved) is much more dangerous.<br /> *There should be a mini funnel in the lab somewhere (it tends to move around some). Use the large Sodium Hydroxide bottle and mini funnel to refill the small bottles to the same level as the last remaining bottle. Always leave one bottle filled as a gauge for where to refill to. If a bottle has not been left filled, then fill the small bottle to about 1.5 inches below where the narrowing of the bottle begins.</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Dissolvable_Support_Bath&diff=11822 2025-08-15T19:07:15Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Certification */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab<br /> |Is used in domain=Electronics<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Support Cleaning Apparatus<br /> |Has model=1200HT<br /> |Has serial number=8121546<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:Dissolvable support bath (1).png<br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has iconwname=<br /> |Has image=File:Dissolvable Support Bath.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=This is a Dissolving Support Bath.<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=<br /> |Has group=<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}} <br /> <br /> Ace: Ellie Annah (estrauss21@georgefox.edu).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> The Dissolvable Support Bath is a heated, circulating water tank designed to remove dissolvable support material from 3D-printed parts. Operating at high temperatures for faster material breakdown, it uses controlled agitation to evenly expose all surfaces, ensuring efficient and thorough cleaning without damaging delicate features.<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> *MSDS - Material Safety Data Sheet<br /> <br /> ====User Manual====<br /> <br /> [[Media:Sca 1200 ht.pdf|Dissovable Support Bath User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> Using the Dissolvable support bath is very simple. During the busy times of the semester, the bath will be left on but if it is not on then turn it on using the control panel. Next, wait for the bath to heat up completely and then place your part in it using appropriate safety attire. It may be helpful to place the part in a mesh bag, remove the basket from the bath, and tie the bag to the bottom of the basket to keep the part completely submerged. Periodically check the part until all support has been dissolved. Always wear safety equipment when opening the bath. The bath is only to be used for ABS models with QSR dissolvable support. PLA placed into the bath will become brittle and break apart, ruining the prints. <br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> Use the correct safety procedures to place a printed part in the bath. <br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> <br /> #ALWAYS USE SAFETY ATTIRE (see safety for requirements).<br /> <br /> #Flip the rocker switch on the bottom right to turn the bath on.<br /> #Select the temperature that correlates to your print material (70 degrees for ABS) and press the power button to begin the heating process.<br /> #Keep the lid shut as much as possible.<br /> #Place the part inside of a mesh bag, tie the strings of the mesh bag to the side handles, allow the part to soak in the bath for several hours.<br /> #*Mesh bags are located in the small drawer next to the sink.<br /> <br /> ''When removing parts:''<br /> <br /> #When the soaking step is completed, the basket can be lifted out and removed so that parts can be sifted through in the air instead of the solution. If you do remove basket, remove the lid first and place it in the sink. Next, lift the basket, let it drain above the bath so that it drips into the bath, then once it is barley dripping, the basket can be transferred to the sink.<br /> #Wash the mesh bag and part thoroughly. Use paper towels to dry the part and let the part sit on paper towels and drain for a couple hours. Always inform the part's creator to wash their hands after handling the part and before eating or touching their eyes/face.<br /> #Replace the basket and lid.<br /> <br /> ==Safety==<br /> <br /> *Only Prototype Lab Mentors are allowed to use the Bath for safety concerns.<br /> *Required safety attire is a lab coat, safety goggles, and heat/chemical protecting gloves.<br /> *Only the Ace of the Bath and the Aces of the Prototype Lab (and Justin) are allowed to drain the tank and replenish it with a new solution of EcoWorks cleaning agent.<br /> *Wash your hands after using the bath and after touching parts that have been removed from the bath within the past 24 hours.<br /> *All parts that come out of the bath should be washed and left to dry/drain excess fluid for at least an hour.<br /> *All spills should be immediately reported to Justin and the Aces of the Prototype Lab.<br /> *Follow the MSDS procedure in the event of getting Sodium Hydroxide on your skin, in your eyes, or if you ingest it.<br /> *The MSDS is located next to the sink in a bright yellow binder hanging on the wall. It includes the fluids the Prototype Lab uses that could be dangerous when humans are exposed to them. The MSDS also details what to do if the fluid is ingested, gets in your eyes or on your skin, and other pertinent information.<br /> <br /> ==Approved Materials==<br /> *<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> <br /> Should be trained on simultaneously with the Form 3 Resin Printer.<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> <br /> *'''What to do if the bath is beeping:'''<br /> **This typically means the bath is low on water (see page 17 of the user manual).<br /> **Take the clear bucket under the sink and use it to fill the bath until the fluid level inside is about 0.5&quot; below the max fill line.<br /> **Tell the Bath Ace if you think the solution should be switched, do not do it yourself.<br /> **The bath may be sending out an error message in which case the Instruction Manual should be consulted.<br /> *'''What to do if the bath appears to be leaking:'''<br /> **Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab and/or Justin.<br /> *'''What to do in the event of a spill:'''<br /> **Evacuate the lab and shut it down until the spill has been properly cleaned.<br /> **Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab; if unavailable and the spill is large then contact Security.<br /> **Use the spill kit.<br /> ***Follow instructions inside the kit.<br /> ***Make sure you are wearing safety attire.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> Like many machines in the Maker Hub, the bath must be periodically wiped down to keep it clean and working properly. This also removes spots created by the Sodium Hydroxide. Also, there is a limit to how much support material can be dissolved and once it has been reached the tank must be emptied and refilled with new Sodium Hydroxide solution. <br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> !Last Done<br /> |-<br /> |1<br /> |Wipe down the machine<br /> |As neeeded<br /> |Lab Volunteer<br /> |N/A<br /> |-<br /> |2<br /> |Change the Bath Solution<br /> |When the bath starts taking a very long time to dissolve support material<br /> |Lab Volunteer<br /> |1/23/20<br /> |-<br /> |3<br /> |Refill Sodium Hydroxide Bottles<br /> |If there is only one full bottle remaining<br /> |Lab Volunteer<br /> |}2. '''How to change the solution in the bath:'''<br /> <br /> *Wear safety attire during the entire process.<br /> *Retrieve a barrel to drain the fluid into.<br /> *Remove the blue silicone cap.<br /> *Align the barrel opening to be underneath the drain spout.<br /> *Open the ball valve so the fluid begins to drain.<br /> *Completely drain all of the fluid.<br /> *''Clean the inside of the tank'':<br /> **Use water to rinse out the inside of the tank then use paper towels to wipe out the gunk.<br /> **Be sure to also clean the basket thoroughly.<br /> **Replace the basket.<br /> *Fill the bath up with water (use the clear bucket under the sink, fill this with water from the sink, pour the water into the bath) until the water level reaches about 0.5&quot; below the max fill line<br /> *Gather 6 packages of EcoWorks (1 package consists of part A and part B).<br /> *Inside each package the powder is in dissoluble bags, gently place all bags from the 6 packages into the water.<br /> *Turn the bath on and allow it to heat up to 70 degrees Celsius.<br /> <br /> 3. '''How to fill new Sodium Hydroxide bottles:'''<br /> <br /> *Wear a lab coat, nitrile gloves, and safety goggles. This is very important. The granule Sodium Hydroxide (undiluted--undissolved) is much more dangerous.<br /> *There should be a mini funnel in the lab somewhere (it tends to move around some). Use the large Sodium Hydroxide bottle and mini funnel to refill the small bottles to the same level as the last remaining bottle. Always leave one bottle filled as a gauge for where to refill to. If a bottle has not been left filled, then fill the small bottle to about 1.5 inches below where the narrowing of the bottle begins.</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Dissolvable_Support_Bath&diff=11821 2025-08-15T19:06:31Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Description */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab<br /> |Is used in domain=Electronics<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Support Cleaning Apparatus<br /> |Has model=1200HT<br /> |Has serial number=8121546<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:Dissolvable support bath (1).png<br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has iconwname=<br /> |Has image=File:Dissolvable Support Bath.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=This is a Dissolving Support Bath.<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=<br /> |Has group=<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}} <br /> <br /> Ace: Ellie Annah (estrauss21@georgefox.edu).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> The Dissolvable Support Bath is a heated, circulating water tank designed to remove dissolvable support material from 3D-printed parts. Operating at high temperatures for faster material breakdown, it uses controlled agitation to evenly expose all surfaces, ensuring efficient and thorough cleaning without damaging delicate features.<br /> <br /> ==Documentation==<br /> <br /> ====Terminology====<br /> <br /> *MSDS - Material Safety Data Sheet<br /> <br /> ====User Manual====<br /> <br /> [[Media:Sca 1200 ht.pdf|Dissovable Support Bath User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> Using the Dissolvable support bath is very simple. During the busy times of the semester, the bath will be left on but if it is not on then turn it on using the control panel. Next, wait for the bath to heat up completely and then place your part in it using appropriate safety attire. It may be helpful to place the part in a mesh bag, remove the basket from the bath, and tie the bag to the bottom of the basket to keep the part completely submerged. Periodically check the part until all support has been dissolved. Always wear safety equipment when opening the bath. The bath is only to be used for ABS models with QSR dissolvable support. PLA placed into the bath will become brittle and break apart, ruining the prints. <br /> <br /> ====Demonstration====<br /> <br /> Use the correct safety procedures to place a printed part in the bath. <br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> <br /> #ALWAYS USE SAFETY ATTIRE (see safety for requirements).<br /> <br /> #Flip the rocker switch on the bottom right to turn the bath on.<br /> #Select the temperature that correlates to your print material (70 degrees for ABS) and press the power button to begin the heating process.<br /> #Keep the lid shut as much as possible.<br /> #Place the part inside of a mesh bag, tie the strings of the mesh bag to the side handles, allow the part to soak in the bath for several hours.<br /> #*Mesh bags are located in the small drawer next to the sink.<br /> <br /> ''When removing parts:''<br /> <br /> #When the soaking step is completed, the basket can be lifted out and removed so that parts can be sifted through in the air instead of the solution. If you do remove basket, remove the lid first and place it in the sink. Next, lift the basket, let it drain above the bath so that it drips into the bath, then once it is barley dripping, the basket can be transferred to the sink.<br /> #Wash the mesh bag and part thoroughly. Use paper towels to dry the part and let the part sit on paper towels and drain for a couple hours. Always inform the part's creator to wash their hands after handling the part and before eating or touching their eyes/face.<br /> #Replace the basket and lid.<br /> <br /> ==Safety==<br /> <br /> *Only Prototype Lab Mentors are allowed to use the Bath for safety concerns.<br /> *Required safety attire is a lab coat, safety goggles, and heat/chemical protecting gloves.<br /> *Only the Ace of the Bath and the Aces of the Prototype Lab (and Justin) are allowed to drain the tank and replenish it with a new solution of EcoWorks cleaning agent.<br /> *Wash your hands after using the bath and after touching parts that have been removed from the bath within the past 24 hours.<br /> *All parts that come out of the bath should be washed and left to dry/drain excess fluid for at least an hour.<br /> *All spills should be immediately reported to Justin and the Aces of the Prototype Lab.<br /> *Follow the MSDS procedure in the event of getting Sodium Hydroxide on your skin, in your eyes, or if you ingest it.<br /> *The MSDS is located next to the sink in a bright yellow binder hanging on the wall. It includes the fluids the Prototype Lab uses that could be dangerous when humans are exposed to them. The MSDS also details what to do if the fluid is ingested, gets in your eyes or on your skin, and other pertinent information.<br /> <br /> ==Approved Materials==<br /> *<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> <br /> *'''What to do if the bath is beeping:'''<br /> **This typically means the bath is low on water (see page 17 of the user manual).<br /> **Take the clear bucket under the sink and use it to fill the bath until the fluid level inside is about 0.5&quot; below the max fill line.<br /> **Tell the Bath Ace if you think the solution should be switched, do not do it yourself.<br /> **The bath may be sending out an error message in which case the Instruction Manual should be consulted.<br /> *'''What to do if the bath appears to be leaking:'''<br /> **Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab and/or Justin.<br /> *'''What to do in the event of a spill:'''<br /> **Evacuate the lab and shut it down until the spill has been properly cleaned.<br /> **Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab; if unavailable and the spill is large then contact Security.<br /> **Use the spill kit.<br /> ***Follow instructions inside the kit.<br /> ***Make sure you are wearing safety attire.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> Like many machines in the Maker Hub, the bath must be periodically wiped down to keep it clean and working properly. This also removes spots created by the Sodium Hydroxide. Also, there is a limit to how much support material can be dissolved and once it has been reached the tank must be emptied and refilled with new Sodium Hydroxide solution. <br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> !Last Done<br /> |-<br /> |1<br /> |Wipe down the machine<br /> |As neeeded<br /> |Lab Volunteer<br /> |N/A<br /> |-<br /> |2<br /> |Change the Bath Solution<br /> |When the bath starts taking a very long time to dissolve support material<br /> |Lab Volunteer<br /> |1/23/20<br /> |-<br /> |3<br /> |Refill Sodium Hydroxide Bottles<br /> |If there is only one full bottle remaining<br /> |Lab Volunteer<br /> |}2. '''How to change the solution in the bath:'''<br /> <br /> *Wear safety attire during the entire process.<br /> *Retrieve a barrel to drain the fluid into.<br /> *Remove the blue silicone cap.<br /> *Align the barrel opening to be underneath the drain spout.<br /> *Open the ball valve so the fluid begins to drain.<br /> *Completely drain all of the fluid.<br /> *''Clean the inside of the tank'':<br /> **Use water to rinse out the inside of the tank then use paper towels to wipe out the gunk.<br /> **Be sure to also clean the basket thoroughly.<br /> **Replace the basket.<br /> *Fill the bath up with water (use the clear bucket under the sink, fill this with water from the sink, pour the water into the bath) until the water level reaches about 0.5&quot; below the max fill line<br /> *Gather 6 packages of EcoWorks (1 package consists of part A and part B).<br /> *Inside each package the powder is in dissoluble bags, gently place all bags from the 6 packages into the water.<br /> *Turn the bath on and allow it to heat up to 70 degrees Celsius.<br /> <br /> 3. '''How to fill new Sodium Hydroxide bottles:'''<br /> <br /> *Wear a lab coat, nitrile gloves, and safety goggles. This is very important. The granule Sodium Hydroxide (undiluted--undissolved) is much more dangerous.<br /> *There should be a mini funnel in the lab somewhere (it tends to move around some). Use the large Sodium Hydroxide bottle and mini funnel to refill the small bottles to the same level as the last remaining bottle. Always leave one bottle filled as a gauge for where to refill to. If a bottle has not been left filled, then fill the small bottle to about 1.5 inches below where the narrowing of the bottle begins.</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Compound_Miter_Saw&diff=11820 2025-08-15T19:03:38Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Specific Maintenance Tasks */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=Wood Shop<br /> |Is used in domain=Wood<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Dewalt<br /> |Has model=DWS780<br /> |Has serial number= 440496<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:Miter Saw.png<br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has iconwname=<br /> |Has image=File:Compound Miter Saw image.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=Compound Miter Saw<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1208<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> *Wear safety glasses.<br /> *Wear hearing protection when operating loud machinery.<br /> *Always know where your fingers are in relation to the blade and never place your fingers under the blade. Keep your guiding hand a safe distance from the cutting area (at least 4”); miter saws have claimed many fingers. There is no SawStop mechanism on this saw, so the blade will continue spinning if it comes in contact with a body part. Never cross your arms while using the miter saw.<br /> *Do not use the miter saw if the blade guard is missing or improperly attached.<br /> *Ensure your workpiece is seated firmly against the fence before making a cut.<br /> *Ensure the workspace and floorspace are clear of clutter and trip/slip hazards. Sawdust can be slippery.<br /> <br /> ====General Wood Shop Attire====<br /> <br /> *Do not wear any loose fitting clothing. Remove or roll up long sleeve clothing.<br /> *Do not wear any jewelry or accessories such as necklaces, scarves, watches, bracelets, rings, tiaras, or dangling earrings.<br /> *Do not wear open-toed shoes or heels.<br /> *Tie your hair up if it is longer than collar length.<br /> *Do not wear gloves; gloves hinder the ability to effectively use your hands.<br /> All of these items have been known to get caught in moving machinery and/or increase the chances of an accident. Please use common sense and remember that most accidents are completely preventable by paying attention to detail and adhering to safety/training guidelines.<br /> <br /> ====General Notes On Proper Workpiece Size====<br /> <br /> Many accidents occur simply because a person attempts to cut a piece of wood that is too small or too big. Small workpieces are easily grabbed by spinning blades, and the hand holding the workpiece can quickly follow. Use the 12/3 rule. If your workpiece is smaller than 12” long and 3” wide, seek help from an instructor before making your cut. On the other hand, oversized lumber is under control of the blade, not your hands. Because oversized lumber must be forced into the blade, the extra force required can cause slipping, thrusting, or sudden movements in the workpiece--sending body parts lunging forward toward the blade.<br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> Miter saws are a type of chop saw where the angle of the blade in relation to the fence is adjustable for making angled cuts (a.k.a. miter cuts). Compound miter saws can also tilt the blade to make bevels. They are primarily used for crosscuts through wood and are good for making repeated cuts at the same length. <br /> <br /> Here are some example videos of miter saw use.<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAymVRheJoA}}<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPUgrhnJVbU}}<br /> <br /> ==Terminology/Anatomy==<br /> [[File:Miter Saw Diagram.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Miter Saw Diagram]]<br /> '''Miter'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''noun''&lt;br&gt;<br /> # A tall headdress worn by bishops and senior abbots as a symbol of office, tapering to a point at front and back with a deep cleft between.&lt;br&gt;<br /> # A joint made between two pieces of wood or other material at an angle of 90°, such that the line of junction bisects this angle.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Other Names: Chop Saw&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Workpiece''' – an object (in this case a piece of wood) being worked on with a tool or machine.&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Keeper Piece''' – the piece you keep; “blessed are the peacemakers, for they shall be called sons of God.” – Matthew 5:9&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Offcut''' – scrap, the waste resulting from cutting a piece of wood.&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Fence''' – a fixture attached to the machine/tool that guides the workpiece in a straight line against it.&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Bevel''' – to cut an inclined or sloping angle (in reference to the z-axis) on a workpiece that is other than 90°; also, the angle itself.&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Crosscut''' – a cut perpendicular to the grain of the wood.&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Rip''' – a cut parallel to the grain of the wood.&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Kerf''' – the wood removed by a saw between the piece you keep and the offcut which is approximately equal to the width of the saw blade.&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Stop Block''' – a block of wood temporarily fixed in place to limit the travel of a workpiece as it is cut; also a block of wood that serves as a reference point when a number of pieces need to be crosscut to the same length.&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Sacrificial Fence (Auxiliary Fence)''' – a temporary fence attached to the main fence that is often damaged during the cutting process, then discarded.&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Detent (Positive Stop)''' – a preset adjustment on a device where the range of motion catches and stops until it is released, usually set for common angles such as 45° or 90°.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[Media:N466020 DWS780.pdf|Miter Saw User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> <br /> In contrast to the operation of a table saw or band saw, the workpiece on a miter saw remains stationary while the blade moves through it. The blade spins away from the user at the point of contact with the wood; this is why the user should always ensure that the workpiece is firmly against the fence before making a cut. This machine is only intended for cutting wood or wood-like materials. Do not cut metal or any type of ferrous material. All workpieces should be carefully inspected for foreign objects or defects before cutting (including nails, screws, staples, etc.). Do not make rip cuts with the miter saw; the blade is specifically designed for crosscuts. Sliding miter saws can cut wider workpieces than non-sliding miter saws. The maximum 90° crosscut capacity for this saw is 2”x14”. Push the saw through the workpiece (away from you) when using the slide functionality; do not pull the saw through the workpiece (towards you). Cutting on the pull stroke is likely to cause the saw blade to climb on top of the workpiece and violently throw the blade assembly towards the user.<br /> <br /> ====Notes On Proper Measuring====<br /> <br /> Mark the workpiece at the desired cut-length and use a square to draw a perpendicular line where you want to make the cut. Do not center the blade on the perpendicular line to make the cut because the kerf will cause the keeper piece to be too short (by half the width of the blade). Think about which side of the workpiece will be the offcut and position the blade over the offcut region of your workpiece with the very edge of the blade on the perpendicular line.<br /> <br /> ====Making Cuts====<br /> <br /> Only cut one workpiece at a time.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Rehearse your cuts before making them. This simply refers to performing the motions of the cut without spinning up the blade to ensure your fingers are clear from the cutting area and to double-check measurements.&lt;br&gt;<br /> When making a cut, squeeze the power trigger while the saw is in its fully-raised position and let the saw reach full speed before cutting into the workpiece. Slowly guide the blade through the workpiece; there is no need for fast movements or excessive downward force.&lt;br&gt;<br /> After the workpiece is fully cut, let the blade come to a stop in the down position. If you lift the saw while the blade is still spinning, the teeth can potentially catch on the wood and throw the offcut in a random direction. This is especially important when using a stop block because the offcut is trapped between the blade and the stop block. In addition, you will get cleaner cuts if you let the blade come to a stop in the down position. You will also get more accurate cuts with the workpiece face up/down instead of on its edge.<br /> <br /> ==Demonstration==<br /> <br /> For the demonstration, find a piece of scrap wood and make an equilateral triangle.<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete the &lt;strong&gt;Wood Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> <br /> When dealing with miter saw issues, please have the wood shop aid or Justin assist you:<br /> *Saw won’t start - Check power cord, outlet, and reset circuit breaker; ensure safety switch is fully engaged.<br /> *Blade won’t cut straight - Verify miter and bevel settings are locked; check fence alignment and blade for warping.<br /> *Excessive vibration - Inspect blade for damage or looseness; ensure arbor nut is tight; clean debris from blade area.<br /> *Motor slows or stalls - Avoid forcing the cut; check for dull or dirty blade; confirm correct blade type for material.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> *Clean saw after each use - remove sawdust from blade guard, table, and motor vents.<br /> *Inspect and clean blade regularly - replace if dull, chipped, or warped.<br /> *Lubricate moving parts lightly - avoid getting lubricant on cutting surfaces.<br /> *Keep power cord and plug free from damage - replace immediately if worn or frayed.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |Change Saw Blade<br /> |When Needed<br /> |Technician<br /> |}</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Compound_Miter_Saw&diff=11819 2025-08-15T19:02:40Z

<p>Edejong22: /* General maintenance */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=Wood Shop<br /> |Is used in domain=Wood<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Dewalt<br /> |Has model=DWS780<br /> |Has serial number= 440496<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:Miter Saw.png<br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has iconwname=<br /> |Has image=File:Compound Miter Saw image.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=Compound Miter Saw<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1208<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> *Wear safety glasses.<br /> *Wear hearing protection when operating loud machinery.<br /> *Always know where your fingers are in relation to the blade and never place your fingers under the blade. Keep your guiding hand a safe distance from the cutting area (at least 4”); miter saws have claimed many fingers. There is no SawStop mechanism on this saw, so the blade will continue spinning if it comes in contact with a body part. Never cross your arms while using the miter saw.<br /> *Do not use the miter saw if the blade guard is missing or improperly attached.<br /> *Ensure your workpiece is seated firmly against the fence before making a cut.<br /> *Ensure the workspace and floorspace are clear of clutter and trip/slip hazards. Sawdust can be slippery.<br /> <br /> ====General Wood Shop Attire====<br /> <br /> *Do not wear any loose fitting clothing. Remove or roll up long sleeve clothing.<br /> *Do not wear any jewelry or accessories such as necklaces, scarves, watches, bracelets, rings, tiaras, or dangling earrings.<br /> *Do not wear open-toed shoes or heels.<br /> *Tie your hair up if it is longer than collar length.<br /> *Do not wear gloves; gloves hinder the ability to effectively use your hands.<br /> All of these items have been known to get caught in moving machinery and/or increase the chances of an accident. Please use common sense and remember that most accidents are completely preventable by paying attention to detail and adhering to safety/training guidelines.<br /> <br /> ====General Notes On Proper Workpiece Size====<br /> <br /> Many accidents occur simply because a person attempts to cut a piece of wood that is too small or too big. Small workpieces are easily grabbed by spinning blades, and the hand holding the workpiece can quickly follow. Use the 12/3 rule. If your workpiece is smaller than 12” long and 3” wide, seek help from an instructor before making your cut. On the other hand, oversized lumber is under control of the blade, not your hands. Because oversized lumber must be forced into the blade, the extra force required can cause slipping, thrusting, or sudden movements in the workpiece--sending body parts lunging forward toward the blade.<br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> Miter saws are a type of chop saw where the angle of the blade in relation to the fence is adjustable for making angled cuts (a.k.a. miter cuts). Compound miter saws can also tilt the blade to make bevels. They are primarily used for crosscuts through wood and are good for making repeated cuts at the same length. <br /> <br /> Here are some example videos of miter saw use.<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAymVRheJoA}}<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPUgrhnJVbU}}<br /> <br /> ==Terminology/Anatomy==<br /> [[File:Miter Saw Diagram.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Miter Saw Diagram]]<br /> '''Miter'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''noun''&lt;br&gt;<br /> # A tall headdress worn by bishops and senior abbots as a symbol of office, tapering to a point at front and back with a deep cleft between.&lt;br&gt;<br /> # A joint made between two pieces of wood or other material at an angle of 90°, such that the line of junction bisects this angle.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Other Names: Chop Saw&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Workpiece''' – an object (in this case a piece of wood) being worked on with a tool or machine.&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Keeper Piece''' – the piece you keep; “blessed are the peacemakers, for they shall be called sons of God.” – Matthew 5:9&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Offcut''' – scrap, the waste resulting from cutting a piece of wood.&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Fence''' – a fixture attached to the machine/tool that guides the workpiece in a straight line against it.&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Bevel''' – to cut an inclined or sloping angle (in reference to the z-axis) on a workpiece that is other than 90°; also, the angle itself.&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Crosscut''' – a cut perpendicular to the grain of the wood.&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Rip''' – a cut parallel to the grain of the wood.&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Kerf''' – the wood removed by a saw between the piece you keep and the offcut which is approximately equal to the width of the saw blade.&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Stop Block''' – a block of wood temporarily fixed in place to limit the travel of a workpiece as it is cut; also a block of wood that serves as a reference point when a number of pieces need to be crosscut to the same length.&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Sacrificial Fence (Auxiliary Fence)''' – a temporary fence attached to the main fence that is often damaged during the cutting process, then discarded.&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Detent (Positive Stop)''' – a preset adjustment on a device where the range of motion catches and stops until it is released, usually set for common angles such as 45° or 90°.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[Media:N466020 DWS780.pdf|Miter Saw User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> <br /> In contrast to the operation of a table saw or band saw, the workpiece on a miter saw remains stationary while the blade moves through it. The blade spins away from the user at the point of contact with the wood; this is why the user should always ensure that the workpiece is firmly against the fence before making a cut. This machine is only intended for cutting wood or wood-like materials. Do not cut metal or any type of ferrous material. All workpieces should be carefully inspected for foreign objects or defects before cutting (including nails, screws, staples, etc.). Do not make rip cuts with the miter saw; the blade is specifically designed for crosscuts. Sliding miter saws can cut wider workpieces than non-sliding miter saws. The maximum 90° crosscut capacity for this saw is 2”x14”. Push the saw through the workpiece (away from you) when using the slide functionality; do not pull the saw through the workpiece (towards you). Cutting on the pull stroke is likely to cause the saw blade to climb on top of the workpiece and violently throw the blade assembly towards the user.<br /> <br /> ====Notes On Proper Measuring====<br /> <br /> Mark the workpiece at the desired cut-length and use a square to draw a perpendicular line where you want to make the cut. Do not center the blade on the perpendicular line to make the cut because the kerf will cause the keeper piece to be too short (by half the width of the blade). Think about which side of the workpiece will be the offcut and position the blade over the offcut region of your workpiece with the very edge of the blade on the perpendicular line.<br /> <br /> ====Making Cuts====<br /> <br /> Only cut one workpiece at a time.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Rehearse your cuts before making them. This simply refers to performing the motions of the cut without spinning up the blade to ensure your fingers are clear from the cutting area and to double-check measurements.&lt;br&gt;<br /> When making a cut, squeeze the power trigger while the saw is in its fully-raised position and let the saw reach full speed before cutting into the workpiece. Slowly guide the blade through the workpiece; there is no need for fast movements or excessive downward force.&lt;br&gt;<br /> After the workpiece is fully cut, let the blade come to a stop in the down position. If you lift the saw while the blade is still spinning, the teeth can potentially catch on the wood and throw the offcut in a random direction. This is especially important when using a stop block because the offcut is trapped between the blade and the stop block. In addition, you will get cleaner cuts if you let the blade come to a stop in the down position. You will also get more accurate cuts with the workpiece face up/down instead of on its edge.<br /> <br /> ==Demonstration==<br /> <br /> For the demonstration, find a piece of scrap wood and make an equilateral triangle.<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete the &lt;strong&gt;Wood Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> <br /> When dealing with miter saw issues, please have the wood shop aid or Justin assist you:<br /> *Saw won’t start - Check power cord, outlet, and reset circuit breaker; ensure safety switch is fully engaged.<br /> *Blade won’t cut straight - Verify miter and bevel settings are locked; check fence alignment and blade for warping.<br /> *Excessive vibration - Inspect blade for damage or looseness; ensure arbor nut is tight; clean debris from blade area.<br /> *Motor slows or stalls - Avoid forcing the cut; check for dull or dirty blade; confirm correct blade type for material.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> *Clean saw after each use - remove sawdust from blade guard, table, and motor vents.<br /> *Inspect and clean blade regularly - replace if dull, chipped, or warped.<br /> *Lubricate moving parts lightly - avoid getting lubricant on cutting surfaces.<br /> *Keep power cord and plug free from damage - replace immediately if worn or frayed.<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |Sample<br /> |Sample<br /> |Sample<br /> |}</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Compound_Miter_Saw&diff=11818 2025-08-15T18:58:26Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Troubleshooting */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=Wood Shop<br /> |Is used in domain=Wood<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=Dewalt<br /> |Has model=DWS780<br /> |Has serial number= 440496<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has icon=File:Miter Saw.png<br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has iconwname=<br /> |Has image=File:Compound Miter Saw image.jpg<br /> |Has imagedesc=Compound Miter Saw<br /> |Has description=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1208<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> }}<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]<br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}<br /> <br /> Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}<br /> <br /> Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Safety First==<br /> [[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]<br /> *Wear safety glasses.<br /> *Wear hearing protection when operating loud machinery.<br /> *Always know where your fingers are in relation to the blade and never place your fingers under the blade. Keep your guiding hand a safe distance from the cutting area (at least 4”); miter saws have claimed many fingers. There is no SawStop mechanism on this saw, so the blade will continue spinning if it comes in contact with a body part. Never cross your arms while using the miter saw.<br /> *Do not use the miter saw if the blade guard is missing or improperly attached.<br /> *Ensure your workpiece is seated firmly against the fence before making a cut.<br /> *Ensure the workspace and floorspace are clear of clutter and trip/slip hazards. Sawdust can be slippery.<br /> <br /> ====General Wood Shop Attire====<br /> <br /> *Do not wear any loose fitting clothing. Remove or roll up long sleeve clothing.<br /> *Do not wear any jewelry or accessories such as necklaces, scarves, watches, bracelets, rings, tiaras, or dangling earrings.<br /> *Do not wear open-toed shoes or heels.<br /> *Tie your hair up if it is longer than collar length.<br /> *Do not wear gloves; gloves hinder the ability to effectively use your hands.<br /> All of these items have been known to get caught in moving machinery and/or increase the chances of an accident. Please use common sense and remember that most accidents are completely preventable by paying attention to detail and adhering to safety/training guidelines.<br /> <br /> ====General Notes On Proper Workpiece Size====<br /> <br /> Many accidents occur simply because a person attempts to cut a piece of wood that is too small or too big. Small workpieces are easily grabbed by spinning blades, and the hand holding the workpiece can quickly follow. Use the 12/3 rule. If your workpiece is smaller than 12” long and 3” wide, seek help from an instructor before making your cut. On the other hand, oversized lumber is under control of the blade, not your hands. Because oversized lumber must be forced into the blade, the extra force required can cause slipping, thrusting, or sudden movements in the workpiece--sending body parts lunging forward toward the blade.<br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> <br /> Miter saws are a type of chop saw where the angle of the blade in relation to the fence is adjustable for making angled cuts (a.k.a. miter cuts). Compound miter saws can also tilt the blade to make bevels. They are primarily used for crosscuts through wood and are good for making repeated cuts at the same length. <br /> <br /> Here are some example videos of miter saw use.<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAymVRheJoA}}<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPUgrhnJVbU}}<br /> <br /> ==Terminology/Anatomy==<br /> [[File:Miter Saw Diagram.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Miter Saw Diagram]]<br /> '''Miter'''&lt;br&gt;<br /> ''noun''&lt;br&gt;<br /> # A tall headdress worn by bishops and senior abbots as a symbol of office, tapering to a point at front and back with a deep cleft between.&lt;br&gt;<br /> # A joint made between two pieces of wood or other material at an angle of 90°, such that the line of junction bisects this angle.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Other Names: Chop Saw&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Workpiece''' – an object (in this case a piece of wood) being worked on with a tool or machine.&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Keeper Piece''' – the piece you keep; “blessed are the peacemakers, for they shall be called sons of God.” – Matthew 5:9&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Offcut''' – scrap, the waste resulting from cutting a piece of wood.&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Fence''' – a fixture attached to the machine/tool that guides the workpiece in a straight line against it.&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Bevel''' – to cut an inclined or sloping angle (in reference to the z-axis) on a workpiece that is other than 90°; also, the angle itself.&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Crosscut''' – a cut perpendicular to the grain of the wood.&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Rip''' – a cut parallel to the grain of the wood.&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Kerf''' – the wood removed by a saw between the piece you keep and the offcut which is approximately equal to the width of the saw blade.&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Stop Block''' – a block of wood temporarily fixed in place to limit the travel of a workpiece as it is cut; also a block of wood that serves as a reference point when a number of pieces need to be crosscut to the same length.&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Sacrificial Fence (Auxiliary Fence)''' – a temporary fence attached to the main fence that is often damaged during the cutting process, then discarded.&lt;br&gt;<br /> '''Detent (Positive Stop)''' – a preset adjustment on a device where the range of motion catches and stops until it is released, usually set for common angles such as 45° or 90°.&lt;br&gt;<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> [[Media:N466020 DWS780.pdf|Miter Saw User Manual]]<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> <br /> In contrast to the operation of a table saw or band saw, the workpiece on a miter saw remains stationary while the blade moves through it. The blade spins away from the user at the point of contact with the wood; this is why the user should always ensure that the workpiece is firmly against the fence before making a cut. This machine is only intended for cutting wood or wood-like materials. Do not cut metal or any type of ferrous material. All workpieces should be carefully inspected for foreign objects or defects before cutting (including nails, screws, staples, etc.). Do not make rip cuts with the miter saw; the blade is specifically designed for crosscuts. Sliding miter saws can cut wider workpieces than non-sliding miter saws. The maximum 90° crosscut capacity for this saw is 2”x14”. Push the saw through the workpiece (away from you) when using the slide functionality; do not pull the saw through the workpiece (towards you). Cutting on the pull stroke is likely to cause the saw blade to climb on top of the workpiece and violently throw the blade assembly towards the user.<br /> <br /> ====Notes On Proper Measuring====<br /> <br /> Mark the workpiece at the desired cut-length and use a square to draw a perpendicular line where you want to make the cut. Do not center the blade on the perpendicular line to make the cut because the kerf will cause the keeper piece to be too short (by half the width of the blade). Think about which side of the workpiece will be the offcut and position the blade over the offcut region of your workpiece with the very edge of the blade on the perpendicular line.<br /> <br /> ====Making Cuts====<br /> <br /> Only cut one workpiece at a time.&lt;br&gt;<br /> Rehearse your cuts before making them. This simply refers to performing the motions of the cut without spinning up the blade to ensure your fingers are clear from the cutting area and to double-check measurements.&lt;br&gt;<br /> When making a cut, squeeze the power trigger while the saw is in its fully-raised position and let the saw reach full speed before cutting into the workpiece. Slowly guide the blade through the workpiece; there is no need for fast movements or excessive downward force.&lt;br&gt;<br /> After the workpiece is fully cut, let the blade come to a stop in the down position. If you lift the saw while the blade is still spinning, the teeth can potentially catch on the wood and throw the offcut in a random direction. This is especially important when using a stop block because the offcut is trapped between the blade and the stop block. In addition, you will get cleaner cuts if you let the blade come to a stop in the down position. You will also get more accurate cuts with the workpiece face up/down instead of on its edge.<br /> <br /> ==Demonstration==<br /> <br /> For the demonstration, find a piece of scrap wood and make an equilateral triangle.<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete the &lt;strong&gt;Wood Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]<br /> <br /> ==Troubleshooting==<br /> <br /> When dealing with miter saw issues, please have the wood shop aid or Justin assist you:<br /> *Saw won’t start - Check power cord, outlet, and reset circuit breaker; ensure safety switch is fully engaged.<br /> *Blade won’t cut straight - Verify miter and bevel settings are locked; check fence alignment and blade for warping.<br /> *Excessive vibration - Inspect blade for damage or looseness; ensure arbor nut is tight; clean debris from blade area.<br /> *Motor slows or stalls - Avoid forcing the cut; check for dull or dirty blade; confirm correct blade type for material.<br /> <br /> ==Maintenance==<br /> ====General maintenance====<br /> <br /> Insert text<br /> <br /> ====Specific Maintenance Tasks====<br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> !Maintenance Procedure<br /> !Frequency<br /> !Done By<br /> |-<br /> |Sample<br /> |Sample<br /> |Sample<br /> |}</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Bicycle_Maintenance_Station&diff=11817 2025-08-15T18:50:30Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Training */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is sheet metal equipment=False<br /> |Is located in facility= The Vault<br /> |Is used in domain= Repair<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=5<br /> |Has model=5<br /> |Has serial number= 5<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has function= Bicycle Maintenance<br /> |Has url=False<br /> |Has icon=File:Bending_brakeIcon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1310<br /> |Has description=False<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=The Vault<br /> |Has name={{Bicycle Maintenance Station}}<br /> <br /> <br /> }}<br /> <br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> On top of the table there is a Tire pump and a bike vice which allows you to work with the bike elevated. <br /> Beneath the table there is a box that contains parts that might be needed for your repairs. There are manuals with many of the tools included in the tool kit. Refer to these if you have questions on operating any tools.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=igMGzFkj_y4}}<br /> <br /> ====Operation====<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgC0n8u-VKU}}<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhdWc35hRhE}}<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VdUQKVMPF5I}}<br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> Rack bike and then proceed with maintenance.<br /> <br /> ==Safety==<br /> Don't drop you bike! Or pinch your fingers!<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete &lt;strong&gt;The Vault - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Bicycle_Maintenance_Station&diff=11816 2025-08-15T18:48:21Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Operation */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is sheet metal equipment=False<br /> |Is located in facility= The Vault<br /> |Is used in domain= Repair<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=5<br /> |Has model=5<br /> |Has serial number= 5<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has function= Bicycle Maintenance<br /> |Has url=False<br /> |Has icon=File:Bending_brakeIcon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1310<br /> |Has description=False<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=The Vault<br /> |Has name={{Bicycle Maintenance Station}}<br /> <br /> <br /> }}<br /> <br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> On top of the table there is a Tire pump and a bike vice which allows you to work with the bike elevated. <br /> Beneath the table there is a box that contains parts that might be needed for your repairs. There are manuals with many of the tools included in the tool kit. Refer to these if you have questions on operating any tools.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgC0n8u-VKU}}<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhdWc35hRhE}}<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VdUQKVMPF5I}}<br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> Rack bike and then proceed with maintenance.<br /> <br /> ==Safety==<br /> Don't drop you bike! Or pinch your fingers!<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete &lt;strong&gt;The Vault - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Bicycle_Maintenance_Station&diff=11815 2025-08-15T18:47:01Z

<p>Edejong22: /* General Procedure */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is sheet metal equipment=False<br /> |Is located in facility= The Vault<br /> |Is used in domain= Repair<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=5<br /> |Has model=5<br /> |Has serial number= 5<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has function= Bicycle Maintenance<br /> |Has url=False<br /> |Has icon=File:Bending_brakeIcon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1310<br /> |Has description=False<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=The Vault<br /> |Has name={{Bicycle Maintenance Station}}<br /> <br /> <br /> }}<br /> <br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> On top of the table there is a Tire pump and a bike vice which allows you to work with the bike elevated. <br /> Beneath the table there is a box that contains parts that might be needed for your repairs. There are manuals with many of the tools included in the tool kit. Refer to these if you have questions on operating any tools.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgC0n8u-VKU}}<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhdWc35hRhE}}<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> Rack bike and then proceed with maintenance.<br /> <br /> ==Safety==<br /> Don't drop you bike! Or pinch your fingers!<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete &lt;strong&gt;The Vault - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Bicycle_Maintenance_Station&diff=11814 2025-08-15T18:46:50Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Safety */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is sheet metal equipment=False<br /> |Is located in facility= The Vault<br /> |Is used in domain= Repair<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=5<br /> |Has model=5<br /> |Has serial number= 5<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has function= Bicycle Maintenance<br /> |Has url=False<br /> |Has icon=File:Bending_brakeIcon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1310<br /> |Has description=False<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=The Vault<br /> |Has name={{Bicycle Maintenance Station}}<br /> <br /> <br /> }}<br /> <br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> On top of the table there is a Tire pump and a bike vice which allows you to work with the bike elevated. <br /> Beneath the table there is a box that contains parts that might be needed for your repairs. There are manuals with many of the tools included in the tool kit. Refer to these if you have questions on operating any tools.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgC0n8u-VKU}}<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhdWc35hRhE}}<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> Rack bike and then procede with maintenance.<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Safety==<br /> Don't drop you bike! Or pinch your fingers!<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete &lt;strong&gt;The Vault - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Bicycle_Maintenance_Station&diff=11813 2025-08-15T18:46:31Z

<p>Edejong22: /* Description */</p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is sheet metal equipment=False<br /> |Is located in facility= The Vault<br /> |Is used in domain= Repair<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=5<br /> |Has model=5<br /> |Has serial number= 5<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has function= Bicycle Maintenance<br /> |Has url=False<br /> |Has icon=File:Bending_brakeIcon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1310<br /> |Has description=False<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=The Vault<br /> |Has name={{Bicycle Maintenance Station}}<br /> <br /> <br /> }}<br /> <br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> On top of the table there is a Tire pump and a bike vice which allows you to work with the bike elevated. <br /> Beneath the table there is a box that contains parts that might be needed for your repairs. There are manuals with many of the tools included in the tool kit. Refer to these if you have questions on operating any tools.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.<br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgC0n8u-VKU}}<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhdWc35hRhE}}<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> Rack bike and then procede with maintenance.<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Safety==<br /> Dont drop you bike! Or pinch your fingers!<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete &lt;strong&gt;The Vault - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]</div>

Edejong22 https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Bicycle_Maintenance_Station&diff=11812 2025-08-13T23:06:03Z

<p>Edejong22: </p> <hr /> <div>{{#set:<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is sheet metal equipment=False<br /> |Is located in facility= The Vault<br /> |Is used in domain= Repair<br /> |Has name={{PAGENAME}}<br /> |Has make=5<br /> |Has model=5<br /> |Has serial number= 5<br /> |Has life expectancy=<br /> |Has year of manufacture or purchase=<br /> |Has replacement cost=<br /> |Has function= Bicycle Maintenance<br /> |Has url=False<br /> |Has icon=File:Bending_brakeIcon.png<br /> |Has icondesc=<br /> |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1310<br /> |Has description=False<br /> |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu<br /> |Is equipment=True<br /> |Is located in facility=The Vault<br /> |Has name={{Bicycle Maintenance Station}}<br /> <br /> <br /> }}<br /> <br /> [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br /> <br /> Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Description==<br /> On top of the table there is a Tire pump and a holder for the bike which allows you to work with the bike elevated. <br /> Beneath the table there is a box that contains parts that might be needed for your repairs. There are manuals with many of the tools included in the tool kit. Refer to these if you have questions on operating any tools.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Training==<br /> ====Operation====<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgC0n8u-VKU}}<br /> {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhdWc35hRhE}}<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ====General Procedure====<br /> Rack bike and then procede with maintenance.<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Safety==<br /> Dont drop you bike! Or pinch your fingers!<br /> <br /> ==Certification==<br /> Complete &lt;strong&gt;The Vault - {{PAGENAME}} Module&lt;/strong&gt; at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email &lt;span style=&quot;color:blue&quot;&gt;makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;/span&gt; if you have any questions.<br /> <br /> [https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]</div>

Edejong22