makerhub - User contributions [en]

Prusa 3D Printer

2019-05-31T23:40:42Z

Jlee17:

{{#set:
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|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:prusa_printer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Prusa Icon
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|Has imagedesc=The Prusa i3 MK3 Printer
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has group=3D Printers
|Has make=Prusa
|Has model=i3 MK3
|Has ace=Dara Klinkner;dklinkner18@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]Model: Prusa i3 MK3

Serial:

Ace: '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}})[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
Location: Prototype Lab 

__TOC__

== Description ==
The Prusa i3 MK3 is a 3D printer that includes a removable heatbed, filament sensor, and other unique features in order to rapidly prototype projects. The Prusa i3 MK3 comes in two different variants, single filament, and multi filament. It employs [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing Anchor|FDM Printing]]. The Prusa i3 MK3 is a powerful prototyping device that works best with smaller prints, with the print bed being approximately 8" x 8" x 9". The Prusa has a hard time with more complex geometric shapes, but it excels at printing smaller optimal quality models for testing and trying out products or ideas.

== Documentation ==
* [https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-mk3/ Product Home Page]
* [https://prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mk3_en_3_04.pdf Prusa i3 MK3 Guide]

'''Terminology:'''
* Nozzle/Extruder: The nozzle (or extruder) is the part of a 3D printer which deposits the molten plastic filament onto the 3D printer bed. The extruder can reach 200°-300°C, depending on the filament used, but typically stays around 215°C for regular prints.
* Heatbed: The heatbed is a 9.83" x 8.3" x 8.3" plate where the filament will be "printed" on. The bed heats up to around 60°C. Heated beds typically prevent the plastic from warping by keeping it warm. Warping is a common issue that happens on 3D printers, where the plastic of the print cools at an uneven rate, leaving the print wavy and not the way you intended.
* Feeder: The feeder is the part of the 3D printer that "feeds" the filament to the nozzle. Sometimes "feeder" and "extruder" are used synonomously, so it's important when you're teaching someone to differentiate whether or not you're talking about the ''nozzle'' extruder or the ''feeder'' extruder. Feeders are typically composed of stepper motors, gears, and sometimes bolts and pulleys to guide the filament to the hot end.
* Fan: There are usually two fans on the nozzle of a 3D printer, and they serve the purpose of cooling the plastic as soon as it comes out of the nozzle. If the plastic is super hot, we don't want it to move as soon as it is in place on the part we're making, otherwise our part will turn out warped or failed. The fans are put in place to strategically cool the plastic as soon as it comes out of the nozzle. You are able to turn the fan speeds up and down in the slicer software (if that is a provided feature), but you can manually configure it on the printer as well.
* Stepper Motor: There are two main places where you'll find stepper motors on a 3D printer. There's a motor for each axes, one for the x, y, and z. These motors receive instructions from the gcode to move the certain axes at certain points to create your print. There is also a stepper motor in the extruder setup, pushing and pulling the filament whenever more or less is needed for the current print.
* Infill: Infill has to do with a 3D print's structural integrity. It can be multiple shapes and patterns (providing different strength optimizations), different sizes, and different thicknesses. Infill ranges anywhere from 0% (hollow) to 100% (solid). It is very unlikely you'll ever want a print to be 100% infill, because it takes an insane amount of filament and a lot of time to complete. Most 3D prints are 20% infill since it is the most optimal choice for cost efficiency and durability. If your concern is cost, a lesser infill density is a good way to go. If strength and mass is important, a higher density (between 30%-50%) is a good estimate. When using a higher infill, always double check to make sure it's a good idea for your part, and that you're using the right machine. Other 3D printers in the prototype lab have the option of a stronger filament than PLA or ABS, so it may be a better idea to print for strength on those rather than the Prusas.
* Filament: There are many different kinds of filament you can use on the 3D printer, ranging from PLA, to ABS, TPU to Nylon. The most common of these are PLA and ABS. PLA stands for Polylactic Acid, it is the most common desktop 3D printing filament because it is odorless and very hard to warp on its own, therefore not always a need for a heated bed. ABS stands for Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene. It's one of the most commercial versions of plastic available (found in legos, packaging, and more)--it's durable, scratch resistant, and tough. Heated beds are a must with ABS filament because it is so temperature sensitive, so it warps very easily. The Prusas use 1.75 mm filament.
* CAD Modeling and Thingiverse: There are two ways you can 3D print models. You can either design your own with a CAD (computer-aided design) software, or you can find something similar to what you want on websites like Thingiverse. Thingiverse has all sorts of community-contributed designs, which you can download the .stl files for, slice, and print the models. As for modeling your own projects, there are multiple softwares you can use such as SolidWorks, AutoCAD, Autodesk Inventor, FreeCAD, and many more.
* Slicing: Each 3D printer uses a slicer software, a software where you can import the model file (usually an .stl file) onto a computerized build plate, resize, change up the nozzle and bed temperatures, adjust the infill and precision, and more. The slicer software takes into consideration all your configurations, then "slices" it into a .gcode file, a set of instructions for the x, y, and z dimensions. The 3D printer can read and tell the stepper motors what to do from the set of instructions within the gcode. The slicer software used for the Prusa i3 MK3 is called PrusaControl.

== Training ==

==== Overview ====
* [https://www.prusa3d.com/howto/ Getting Started]
* [https://help.prusa3d.com/l/en#_ga=2.222995352.20298461.1529081063-1766242771.1529081063 HelpDocs]

==== Demonstration ====
The student will need download, setup, and successfully start a print of their choice, providing it is within reason and Prototype Lab guidelines. If possible, they should stay as long as possible in case a print fails, which will be an opportunity to teach them basic troubleshooting of the machine.

==== General Procedure ====
Picking a Model:

Once you have a model you would like to print (which you can find on either thingiverse or model yourself), you will be using a software called PrusaControl to slice your .stl files into a .gcode file, which the printer will interpret and print your model from.

When you open PrusaControl, it looks like this:
[[File:Prusacontroldragon.png|link=https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/File:Prusacontroldragon.png|left|566x566px|frameless]]

At the top, you have your basic toolbar where you can import a file. To do this, click on "File > Import Model File", and you'll be presented with your filesystem to choose whatever model you have ready.

To the right is the settings you'll most likely be working with, such as the material, quality, infill, support, and sizing.
[[File:Settings.png|frame]]
On the Prusa's, we currently only use PLA, so we'll always be keeping the Material option as Prusa PLA.

The quality of the print has to do with the size of each individual layer. The finer the quality, the longer the time is to print your model. Almost always you'll want your print to be Optimal quality (0.15mm), since about all prints turn out good with that setting. Talk to a supervisor if you feel like your print needs more definition.

Next, you'll change the infill. If you don't know how much infill you need, check out the definition of infill above or talk to the supervisor for help. This option will almost always stay at 20% infill.

Now we come to support! Support is extra material printed around your model to support tougher geometric angles that the printer can't get to on its own. It is easily torn off at the end of the print.

The Brim option is for bed adhesion. You will typically want this option, since it helps prevent the warping of the part you are printing. A brim is most important for prints that have a small surface area that is in contact with the plate.

[[File:Orientation.png|thumb]]

On the right you will see the object settings! If you click on the model you imported, these settings will highlight so you can change them. In the Position settings, you can adjust where on the printer bed you would like your print to start. Due to automatic bed leveling, the center of the printer bed is always the best place to put your model. If you are printing multiple parts, then arrange everything from the center outwards. You can click and drag your model around and see the change in the X and Y coordinates, and if you need it to be super precise, you can use the keyboard to change the values in the Position settings.

For the Rotation settings, you want to make sure that the flattest part of the model is the one that is face down on the printer bed. Prusas don't do well with odd geometry and angles (that's a job for the Formlab 2!), so make sure to keep the flat parts of your print on the printer bed.

Scale is important, it determines how large you want your print to be. If you modeled your print to specific dimensions, PrusaControl will import it with the correct dimensions, and you can skip this section. If it is too large, you can scale the model down to 70%-90% and see how that affects the size, and vice versa, changing the scale to 110%-130% if need be.

Place on bed should always be on.

When all those settings are complete, you can click "Generate" in the bottom right corner, and PrusaControl will give you a time and filament estimate for your print. If they seem reasonable, you can save the newly "sliced" .gcode file to the SD card that will go into the printer! If not, you can always go back and adjust the settings to fit your time and/or filament needs.

Starting A Print:

Once you have the gcode file on the SD card, put the SD card into the Prusa (on the left side of the orange menu), and turn the printer on. The printer will read the SD card and initialize itself, then you can start. In the menu, there is an option you want called "Print from SD Card". That will take you to a list of all the .gcode files on the SD card. Search until you find your own, and select it. Make sure there is enough filament on the printer for your print, or it will fail midway!

Naturally, the printer will set itself up for PLA settings, which is approximately 215°C for the extruder, and 60°C for the heated bed. This will take a few minutes. Often filament will start oozing out of the nozzle once it is fully heated, but don't worry, the printer will clean off the filament after calibration. Make sure that there are no filament strings attached to the nozzle as the print is starting.

For smaller prints, you want to make sure to watch the print until it is around 30% completion, which is given on the menu screen as the Prusa is printing. For bigger prints, it takes a longer time to get to 30%, so it is recommended to watch it until 10%-15% completion. If the print contains a lot of support, it is wise not to run it overnight, since lots of support on certain prints can cause failure more easily.

Finishing A Print:

When the print completes successfully, the Prusa will delightfully present the print by moving the print bed forward, and the extruder will go back to the homing location. On the menu screen it will display how long the last print took, and the other normal settings like the temperature of the print bed and nozzle. To get the print off of the bed, take the magnetic steel bed off and bend it just slightly to pop the brim of the print off of the bed. From there you can take the print off carefully by hand.

If the print was successful, congratulations! If not, time to diagnose the problem and try again.

Put the magnetic bed back onto the Prusa, and if there are no more prints needing to be done, power it off.

Loading New Filament:

When the printer runs out of filament, typically you'll want to find a shop aid to help you change the filament. All you need to do is go to the menu, select the "Unload Filament" option, and the printer should start heating up. Once it heats up, it'll unload the filament and you can pull it out of the extruder.

As for loading new filament, find the option in the menu labelled "Autoload Filament", and the printer will walk you through the instructions for loading the new spool of filament.

Pausing or Stopping a Print:

To pause a print in the middle of the job, press the knob and it'll pull up a printing menu. There are two options near the bottom, "Stop Print" and "Pause Print". If the print is failing, you definitely want to stop it. If you need to change filament or think you can save the print before it fails anymore, you can pause the print.

Octoprint:
* Prusa 1: http://10.90.12.73/#control
* Prusa 2: http://10.90.12.74/#control
* Prusa 3: http://10.90.12.80/#control
* Gerald: http://10.90.12.94/#control

== Certification ==
[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31283 Prusa FoxTALE Course]

== Troubleshooting ==
Here are some ways your print can fail in the beginning, and how to troubleshoot it:
* '''Brim is pulled off of bed and dragged around by the nozzle:''' If it's just starting the brim of the print and having trouble adhering to the bed, you can pull off the first few rounds of the brim and let the print continue. Sometimes the outer part of the brim has more trouble adhering than the inner parts. If it continues to fail, stop the print. Make sure you have the best orientation possible for your part, make sure the nozzle of the printer is clean, and try starting the print again. If it continues to fail, find a supervisor to help you.
* '''Parts of the print detach mid-print:''' Stop the print. Often if parts of the print detach from the model it is due to failure to adhere to support. Ask a supervisor if the geometry of your part is too complex for the Prusas. If not, adjust the sizing, change around some support settings, and try the print again. If it continues to fail, try to break the part into smaller prints and assemble them when done.
* '''Extruded filament is too thin/not adhering to layers OR Filament will not come out of nozzle:''' When the filament is too thin or not coming out, there is often a blockage or small piece of filament in the extruder. Ask a supervisor for help.
* '''Print will not adhere to bed:''' If your 3D print will not adhere to the bed after lots of tries, the last resort can be some glue stick. For trickier prints with small bases, sometimes this is the trick. Always make sure you try the brim option before using the glue stick on the printer. When the print is finished, clean off the printer bed.
* '''Support fails:''' If the support gets really stringy as the print continues and in turn fails the print, see if you can have a supervisor help you change the density of the support. Double check that the printer is not shaking too much as you print your model. If you still don't know what to do after your print fails, ask a supervisor.
* '''First layer of print warps:''' If the first layer of your print warps and affects the rest of your print, lower the bed temperature, and start the print again. If it continues to warp, try adding some adhesive on the printer bed.
If your issue is not found here, ask the supervisor for help, or you can research on this website: https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#section-fdm-3d-printing-problems-my-print-failed

Failed Calibration:

If the printer fails while calibrating, there will be an error message that suggests you clean the nozzle off and retry the print.

Crash Detected:

When the nozzle hits something it's not used to, such as an obstruction in the print, the print bed, or something else that stops the extruder from moving, the printer will error and say it crashed. It will ask you to clean off any excess filament and stuff that gets in the way of the extruder. If it continues to fail because of a crash, ask a supervisor for help.

== Maintenance ==

==== Specific Maintenance Tasks ====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Wiping Down Buildplate
|Before every new print
|Ace
|-
|Cleaning of Nozzle
|When needed
|Ace
|}

2019-05-30T18:11:16Z

Jlee17:

Vinyl Cutter

2019-05-30T17:46:26Z

Jlee17:

2019-02-13T21:47:24Z

Jlee17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has icon=File:formlabs_printer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Formlabs 3D Printer Icon
|Has iconwname=File:formlabs_printer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:form-2.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Formlabs Form 2 3D Printer
|Has description=(???)
|Has certification=(???)
|Has group=3D Printers
|Has make=Formlabs
|Has model=Form 2
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|250px|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
The Form 2 is Formlab's 3rd generation printer boasting a whole range of new features including a new peeling mechanism, heated tank, touchscreen display, wireless controls and an automated resin system. The resulting prints that come off of the Form 2 have consistently been among the highest quality objects to come off of any desktop 3D printer. This machine is best used with the [[Form Wash and Cure]] <ref>Description adapted from [https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/form-2 3dhubs].</ref>

__TOC__

== Documentation ==

* [https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/ Product Home Page]
* [https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/tech-specs/ Tech Specs]
* [https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/design-specs/ Design Specs]

== Training ==

=== SLA Printing ===
The Form 2 employs [[Prototype Lab#SLA Printing Anchor|SLA Printing]]. Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled in the PreForm software to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This ensures the wiper blade in the resin tank doesn't remove the print from the build plate. When reviewing the supports in PreForm, check to make sure all supports are created in areas from which they can be easily removed, or that supports created in inaccessible areas won't interfere with the print's intended function. Also check to make sure no supports are created on hard edges, as any placed supports will break up the edge, and removing them properly takes longer than necessary and can potentially damage the print.[[File:InvertedSLA.png|314x314px|thumb|right|Inverted SLA Diagram]]

=== Why Pick the Form 2? ===
The Form 2 is most useful for its ability to print incredibly accurate parts, with layers as thin as .025mm thick, depending on the resin selected. Due to the size of the Form 2, it can only be used to print smaller pieces, and the extra layering for detail combined with the de-lamination process also causes the Form 2 to generally be the slowest printer in the lab. Unless an exception is made, a model with supports included should be no larger than 30mL worth of resin. If specific material properties are needed for a print, the Form 2 is a good option to look into thanks to the many differing resins available for use.

=== Setting up Preform ===
Follow the Code: a few guidelines should be observed when setting up prints:
* To begin with, make sure the print is under the approve cost/size cutoff, or the person printing has special approval
* If a window pops up saying the print is broken, hit the repair button then proceed as normal
* Parts must be shrunk to fit within the build area, further size edits can be made in the Size tab
[[File:Model too big.jpg|left|thumb|302x302px]]
* All prints should be slightly canted (angled) to prevent the delamination process from removing the print from the build plate
** The goal is to reduce the horizontal area covered with each pass of the wiper
** Start with auto-orienting the part using the 'Orient Selected' button in the Orientation tab, this is a good place to start and will make it easier to see if the part needs further orientation
* Don't place supports on hard edges (right angles) or in inaccessible places
* Supports should be used in accordance with the part
** Every part that needs support should have support - PreForm will highlight unsupported areas in red, place supports until the red areas go away, '''check the part thoroughly'''
*** Preform shouldn't let you print with unsupported areas
** Supports can be added, edited, and removed in the PreForm Supports tab
*** Support density should be between .5 and .7
*** Support point size should be between .6mm and .8mm
*** These values can be edited if necessary to ensure printability, just use common sense when adjusting values
** Larger prints will require more support than smaller prints
* The Layout tab can be used to add additional copies of a part
* Ensure the proper printer and resin type are selected in Preform prior to starting the print

=== Choosing a Resin Type ===
Currently the lab supports printing with:
* Black/grey standard: the Standard Resins section of [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Choosing-the-Right-Material?language=en_US Choosing the Right Material]
** Pros: high detail, matte surfaces, good for small, intricate features
** Cons: not particularly strong, stretchy, or flexible
* Tough: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Tough-Resin?language=en_US Tough]
** Pros: good for hard edges, snap fits, and high-stresses
** Cons: bad for fine details and rigid prints, will not stretch as much as Durable
* Durable: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Durable-Resin?language=en_US Durable]
** Pros: low-friction, high impact strength, good for parts that are both rigid and flexible
** Cons: bad for fine detail parts
* Flexible: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Flexible-Resin?language=en_US Flexible]
** Pros: can simulate rubber when uncured, good for functional prototyping
** Cons: bad for fine detail or applications when rigidity or hardness are required
See the respective links for each resin for an in-depth descriptions of each resin's properties and suggested applications, or look at [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Choosing-the-Right-Material?language=en_US Choosing the Right Material] for a shorter overview. Most resins do not handle high temperatures or constant loading well.

=== Changing Resin ===
# Remove, clean, and replace the build plate.
## Pull lever holding build plate in place up, allowing the build plate to be removed.
## Place the build plate on the holding rack in the Form Wash. Run the build plate through the Wash to remove resin. For the build plate, the Wash should be set to 10 minutes.
## Let the build plate air dry before replacing, secure by flipping lever down.
# Remove and replace resin tank and wiper.
## Firmly pull wiper back until it's out of its slot and loose in the resin tank. Leave the wiper in the resin tank, each tank has its own wiper.
## Firmly pull tank back until it pops loose of the printer, put the appropriate lid on the resin tank, and store with wiper in tank.
## Before inserting the new resin tank, remove its lid and store.
## Slot the new resin tank into place in the printer.
## Use a scraping tool to dredge bottom of new resin tank for any hardened resin or loose bits of material, remove any found bits.
## Slot the new tank's wiper into place.
## Be sure to clean up any resin that spills during this process.
# Remove and replace the resin cartridge in the back of the printer.
## Close the lid of the cartridge if it's open.
## Pull cartridge out of the printer.
## Wipe dry the resin drip on the bottom of the cartridge, then store.
## Insert new resin cartridge, '''of the same resin as the tank'''.
## Open lid on resin cartridge before starting a print, and close after.

=== Removing Prints ===
# Finished prints
## Use a scraping tool to remove the print and any extra material from the build plate, taking care to not scratch the build plate. Go as carefully and as slowly as needed to prevent damaging the print.
### The build plate stand can be used for easier removal.
## Wash the print in the Form Wash.
## If the print is being cured, only remove support material after it has been run through the Form Cure.
## Supports should be clipped off, and any leftover support material can be sanded down if desired.
# Failed prints
## Follow the same process for finished prints for removing.
## '''When a print fails, the build plate must be cleaned and run through the Wash''' before a new print can be started, as leftover residue from the failed print can cause subsequent prints to also fail. That's bad.

=== Washing and Curing Prints ===
See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page.
=== Common Errors ===
If a print fails, the most likely cause is contamination of the resin. Before proceeding, see the procedure for Failed Prints. Contamination of the resin involves leftover material on the build plate, or particulates in the resin tank. Before attempting a new print, thoroughly clean the build plate, and dredge the resin tank for any loose particles. Another cause is incorrect orientation of the print. Check the print file in question, and ensure it has been canted accordingly to prevent the de-laminating process from removing the print from the build plate. '''Don't ever mix resin types.'''

Old resin and resin tanks can also present issues. If a resin tanks is particularly cloudy on the bottom, the laser will be prevented from being able to penetrate the tank, and cause adhesion issues for the print. Resin can also go bad after sitting for long periods of time or being used heavily. This can be evidenced by discoloration of the resin or separation of the resin into unmixed layers.

=== Maintenance ===
* Dredging: Every few prints the resin tank should be dredged with a scraping tool to search for any hardened resin or loose bits of material, when resin tanks are switched out, and when a print fails. Remove any found bits. Dredging is done by sweeping a scraping tool back and forth across the bottom of the resin tank, essentially mixing up the resin to stir up any loose bits. Take care while dredging to not scrape the tank. See a resin's particular page on the Formlabs website for additional cleaning instruction. If the tank is not cleanable, switch out the resin tank. If the problem persists, it's possible the resin cartridge needs to be switched out as well.
* Alcohol in the Form Wash must be changed once a certain threshold of washed-off resin enters the tank. See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page for details.
* Old resin and resin tanks will occasionally need to be changed out

* [https://support.formlabs.com/hc/en-us/categories/115000003904-Form-2 Form 2 Sources and Help]

==Resources==
[[Form Wash and Cure]]

[[Prototype Lab#SLA Printing Anchor|SLA Printing]]

Link to shop [[Equipment]] page

<references />

Formlabs 3D Printer

2019-02-13T21:46:52Z

Jlee17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has icon=File:formlabs_printer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Formlabs 3D Printer Icon
|Has iconwname=File:formlabs_printer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:form-2.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Formlabs Form 2 3D Printer
|Has description=(???)
|Has certification=(???)
|Has group=3D Printers
|Has make=Formlabs
|Has model=Form 2
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|250px|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
The Form 2 is Formlab's 3rd generation printer boasting a whole range of new features including a new peeling mechanism, heated tank, touchscreen display, wireless controls and an automated resin system. The resulting prints that come off of the Form 2 have consistently been among the highest quality objects to come off of any desktop 3D printer. This machine is best used with the [[Form Wash and Cure]] <ref>Description adapted from [https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/form-2 3dhubs].</ref>

__TOC__

== Documentation ==

* [https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/ Product Home Page]
* [https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/tech-specs/ Tech Specs]
* [https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/design-specs/ Design Specs]

== Training ==

=== SLA Printing ===
The Form 2 employs [[Prototype Lab#SLA Printing Anchor|SLA Printing]]. Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled in the PreForm software to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This ensures the wiper blade in the resin tank doesn't remove the print from the build plate. When reviewing the supports in PreForm, check to make sure all supports are created in areas from which they can be easily removed, or that supports created in inaccessible areas won't interfere with the print's intended function. Also check to make sure no supports are created on hard edges, as any placed supports will break up the edge, and removing them properly takes longer than necessary and can potentially damage the print.[[File:InvertedSLA.png|314x314px|thumb|right|Inverted SLA Diagram]]

=== Why Pick the Form 2? ===
The Form 2 is most useful for its ability to print incredibly accurate parts, with layers as thin as .025mm thick, depending on the resin selected. Due to the size of the Form 2, it can only be used to print smaller pieces, and the extra layering for detail combined with the de-lamination process also causes the Form 2 to generally be the slowest printer in the lab. Unless an exception is made, a model with supports included should be no larger than 30mL worth of resin. If specific material properties are needed for a print, the Form 2 is a good option to look into thanks to the many differing resins available for use.

=== Setting up Preform ===
Follow the Code: a few guidelines should be observed when setting up prints:
* To begin with, make sure the print is under the approve cost/size cutoff, or the person printing has special approval
* If a window pops up saying the print is broken, hit the repair button then proceed as normal
* Parts must be shrunk to fit within the build area, further size edits can be made in the Size tab
[[File:Model too big.jpg|none|thumb|302x302px]]
* All prints should be slightly canted (angled) to prevent the delamination process from removing the print from the build plate
** The goal is to reduce the horizontal area covered with each pass of the wiper
** Start with auto-orienting the part using the 'Orient Selected' button in the Orientation tab, this is a good place to start and will make it easier to see if the part needs further orientation
* Don't place supports on hard edges (right angles) or in inaccessible places
* Supports should be used in accordance with the part
** Every part that needs support should have support - PreForm will highlight unsupported areas in red, place supports until the red areas go away, '''check the part thoroughly'''
*** Preform shouldn't let you print with unsupported areas
** Supports can be added, edited, and removed in the PreForm Supports tab
*** Support density should be between .5 and .7
*** Support point size should be between .6mm and .8mm
*** These values can be edited if necessary to ensure printability, just use common sense when adjusting values
** Larger prints will require more support than smaller prints
* The Layout tab can be used to add additional copies of a part
* Ensure the proper printer and resin type are selected in Preform prior to starting the print

=== Choosing a Resin Type ===
Currently the lab supports printing with:
* Black/grey standard: the Standard Resins section of [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Choosing-the-Right-Material?language=en_US Choosing the Right Material]
** Pros: high detail, matte surfaces, good for small, intricate features
** Cons: not particularly strong, stretchy, or flexible
* Tough: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Tough-Resin?language=en_US Tough]
** Pros: good for hard edges, snap fits, and high-stresses
** Cons: bad for fine details and rigid prints, will not stretch as much as Durable
* Durable: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Durable-Resin?language=en_US Durable]
** Pros: low-friction, high impact strength, good for parts that are both rigid and flexible
** Cons: bad for fine detail parts
* Flexible: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Flexible-Resin?language=en_US Flexible]
** Pros: can simulate rubber when uncured, good for functional prototyping
** Cons: bad for fine detail or applications when rigidity or hardness are required
See the respective links for each resin for an in-depth descriptions of each resin's properties and suggested applications, or look at [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Choosing-the-Right-Material?language=en_US Choosing the Right Material] for a shorter overview. Most resins do not handle high temperatures or constant loading well.

=== Changing Resin ===
# Remove, clean, and replace the build plate.
## Pull lever holding build plate in place up, allowing the build plate to be removed.
## Place the build plate on the holding rack in the Form Wash. Run the build plate through the Wash to remove resin. For the build plate, the Wash should be set to 10 minutes.
## Let the build plate air dry before replacing, secure by flipping lever down.
# Remove and replace resin tank and wiper.
## Firmly pull wiper back until it's out of its slot and loose in the resin tank. Leave the wiper in the resin tank, each tank has its own wiper.
## Firmly pull tank back until it pops loose of the printer, put the appropriate lid on the resin tank, and store with wiper in tank.
## Before inserting the new resin tank, remove its lid and store.
## Slot the new resin tank into place in the printer.
## Use a scraping tool to dredge bottom of new resin tank for any hardened resin or loose bits of material, remove any found bits.
## Slot the new tank's wiper into place.
## Be sure to clean up any resin that spills during this process.
# Remove and replace the resin cartridge in the back of the printer.
## Close the lid of the cartridge if it's open.
## Pull cartridge out of the printer.
## Wipe dry the resin drip on the bottom of the cartridge, then store.
## Insert new resin cartridge, '''of the same resin as the tank'''.
## Open lid on resin cartridge before starting a print, and close after.

=== Removing Prints ===
# Finished prints
## Use a scraping tool to remove the print and any extra material from the build plate, taking care to not scratch the build plate. Go as carefully and as slowly as needed to prevent damaging the print.
### The build plate stand can be used for easier removal.
## Wash the print in the Form Wash.
## If the print is being cured, only remove support material after it has been run through the Form Cure.
## Supports should be clipped off, and any leftover support material can be sanded down if desired.
# Failed prints
## Follow the same process for finished prints for removing.
## '''When a print fails, the build plate must be cleaned and run through the Wash''' before a new print can be started, as leftover residue from the failed print can cause subsequent prints to also fail. That's bad.

=== Washing and Curing Prints ===
See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page.
=== Common Errors ===
If a print fails, the most likely cause is contamination of the resin. Before proceeding, see the procedure for Failed Prints. Contamination of the resin involves leftover material on the build plate, or particulates in the resin tank. Before attempting a new print, thoroughly clean the build plate, and dredge the resin tank for any loose particles. Another cause is incorrect orientation of the print. Check the print file in question, and ensure it has been canted accordingly to prevent the de-laminating process from removing the print from the build plate. '''Don't ever mix resin types.'''

Old resin and resin tanks can also present issues. If a resin tanks is particularly cloudy on the bottom, the laser will be prevented from being able to penetrate the tank, and cause adhesion issues for the print. Resin can also go bad after sitting for long periods of time or being used heavily. This can be evidenced by discoloration of the resin or separation of the resin into unmixed layers.

=== Maintenance ===
* Dredging: Every few prints the resin tank should be dredged with a scraping tool to search for any hardened resin or loose bits of material, when resin tanks are switched out, and when a print fails. Remove any found bits. Dredging is done by sweeping a scraping tool back and forth across the bottom of the resin tank, essentially mixing up the resin to stir up any loose bits. Take care while dredging to not scrape the tank. See a resin's particular page on the Formlabs website for additional cleaning instruction. If the tank is not cleanable, switch out the resin tank. If the problem persists, it's possible the resin cartridge needs to be switched out as well.
* Alcohol in the Form Wash must be changed once a certain threshold of washed-off resin enters the tank. See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page for details.
* Old resin and resin tanks will occasionally need to be changed out

* [https://support.formlabs.com/hc/en-us/categories/115000003904-Form-2 Form 2 Sources and Help]

==Resources==
[[Form Wash and Cure]]

[[Prototype Lab#SLA Printing Anchor|SLA Printing]]

Link to shop [[Equipment]] page

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