makerhub - User contributions [en]

Metal Laser Cutter

2025-09-17T17:15:14Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Machine Shop
|Is used in domain=Metal
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=FabLight
|Has model=Tube and Sheet FL4500
|Has serial number=10021.02-0076-301
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File: Metal_laser_cutterIcon.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:FabLight.jpg
|Has imagedesc=FabLight Laser
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1316
|Has ace=Needed;Nobody
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: Machine Shop

__TOC__

==Safety First==
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]
Here are some safety instructions for the {{PAGENAME}}. Remember... SAFETY FIRST!!!
*Laser cutting or engraving of many materials can create hazardous fumes. These fumes may be dangerous to breathe and can damage the FabLight. Consult Manufacturer’s Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for all materials before laser cutting. The user of the FabLight is responsible for exhaust ventilation and removing cutting fumes from the working area. Before operating the FabLight, make sure that the exhaust system is working properly.
*There are often sharp edges left on the material from the cutting process. Be careful handling a fresh cut piece and use the deburring tools to remove any sharp edges.
*On a similar note a fresh cut piece is usually hot so check the temperature with the back of your hand before picking it up.
*Make sure to use tabs to prevent collision damage with the cutting head.
*Before opening any covers, turn off the machine power and remove the key to make sure no cutting operations will happen while you are working inside the the laser cutter.

==Description==

FabLight FL4500 is a versatile and powerful laser cutter that is capable of engraving and cutting sheet and tube metal. It will cut and engrave on square, rectangle, and round tubes up to 2" diameter as well as sheet metal. Internal features on tubing such as complex holes, slots, notches, and other features along the tube are also very easy to cut. It is equipped with an industrial-quality IPG fiber laser and precise mechanical control, you can make just about anything metal you can think of, including: custom signs, furniture, panels, enclosures, industrial components, jewelry & art.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5qoiouFq50&feature=youtu.be}}
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPpDD0U3Hps}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* Engrave - Removes a thin layer of material from the surface of the metal along an established line. This has great accuracy but only produces a thin line.
* Raster - Very similar to an engrave but a raster is used to engrave a large area by passing over the area repeatedly. This works great for things like lettering and designs, but it does lose a little accuracy around the edges.
* FabCreator - The software used to set up a cut from a DXF.

==== User Manual ====

[[Media:FabLight Operator Manual v4.3.pdf|FabLight Metal Laser Cutter User Manual]]

[[Media:FabCreator Manual 2.2.0.XX.pdf|FabCreator Manual]]

[[Media:3D Fab Plugin Manual v2.1.pdf|3D Fab SolidWorks Plugin Manual]]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Fablight is a simple machine to use for cutting flat stock. A part is saved as a DXF file and then imported to FabCreater where features can be set to cut, engrave, raster, or just be reference geometry. In FabCreator, the material properties are set and tabs are added - so that the material doesn't fall to the bottom of the machine. Once the part is set up correctly it is saved to a USB drive to be transferred to the machine. Most of the interactions with the machine happen through the touchscreen which makes previewing and cutting the job a simple task. Cutting tube stock is more intricate. The Fablight Solidworks Plugin is used to make a 2D DXF out of the 3D Solidworks model by essentially unwrapping the tube until it is one flat piece. This DXF is then wrapped back up into a 3D part in FabCreater before being sent to the machine. Only use the Fablight Solidworks Plugin when cutting or engraving tube stock. When cutting tube stock you will want to cut as close to the chuck as possible to avoid waste.

====Demonstration====

For the demonstration, you are required to engrave your own design on flat stock. This design should include a cut, engrave and raster. If no design is available use a George Fox logo.

====General Procedure====
'''For Flat Stock:'''

Setting up the file:
# Export the desired part as a DXF (a DWG will also work). It does not matter what software was used to create it as long as it can be exported as a DXF.
# Open the FabCreater software.
# Import the DXF using [File] > [Import] and make sure to select the correct units when prompted.
# Go to the [Edit] tab to select and delete any unwanted lines.
# Alternatively, line types can be adjusted in the [Part] tab to be cut, engraved, a raster, or a reference line. This can be helpful to see what the entire part looks like if when you are cutting a smaller piece for it.[[File:FabCreator.png|none|thumb|627x627px]]
# Go to the [Properties] tab and select the correct material properties such as material type, thickness, and stock type.
# While in the [Properties] tab, select the [Move to Origin] option to properly align the part where the laser will begin cutting. If there are multiple parts, align one with the origin and then orient the rest based on that.
# Hit [Accept].
# If there are any small parts, tabs can be added to prevent them from falling through the rack by going to the [Process] tab and the clicking the [Tabs] button.
# Save the file to a USB drive by going to [Job] > [Make]. Note: Make sure this is not saved in a folder of the USB drive so the laser can find the job.
Setting up the laser cutter:
# Slowly open the nitrogen canister so that the system is not filled to quickly and then adjust the regulator to 150 psi. Do not exceed 150 psi because the pressure in the canister is enough to rupture the hose to the machine.
# Turn on the Fablight by flipping the switch found on the left side of the machine and then turning the key.[[File:Fab light panel.png|none|thumb|556x556px]]
# Once it is on select the machine home feature on the touchscreen to move the laser head to its starting position.
# Open the door on the front of the machine and check that the adjustable chuck is slid all the way to the right so the material tray will not hit it.
# Slide out the material tray so that the cutting material can be loaded.
# Place the cutting material anywhere on the tray and slide the tray back in. Make sure a click is heard to signify that the tray is in the correct position. There are two places where it will click you want to stop at the first one. The second one is at the very back of the machine and is where the tray goes when using the chuck.
# Close the door.
Performing the cut:
# Insert the USB drive on the right side of the panel. [''not to be confused with the "Key Switch key"'']
# Using the touch screen, press [New Job] > your file name > [Select Job]. A preview window will then open up where the model can be checked to make sure everything is correct.
# Hit the green checkmark to exit the preview.
# Hit the green checkmark again to move to the next step.
# Set the origin by moving the x and y slider bars. The laser head will move with the sliders and the exact position can be seen by the red guide laser. The location of the red dot will be the origin used in the FabCreater software and it should be placed where the use of material can be maximized (usually the corner of the material, furthest away from the chuck.).
# Press [Run Job] on the touchscreen.
# Press the [Start] button to the top of the touchscreen to begin the cut.
# Once the cut is completed wait a minute or so to let fumes dissipate and the material to cool.
# Remove the material from the machine using the door on the front.

==Reset the Space==
[[File:Reset The Space HD2.png|left|150px]]
Here is how you can reset the space for the {{PAGENAME}}. Always reset the space!!!
* Turn off the machine.
* Turn off the compressed air.
* Turn off the exhaust switch.
* Ask the technician if you should complete a general cleaning of the machine and check the video linked in the general maintenance section of the Metal Laser Cutter wiki page.

==Cut List==
===Approved Materials===
* Steel
* Stainless steel
* Aluminum

===DO NOT CUT===
* Wood
* Plastics
* Fabrics

(Use the CO2 lasers for these materials.)

If you want to cut a material not listed here, please talk with the Maker Hub staff.

==Certification==
Complete the Machine Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
* The job runs but machine does not cut. Most likely the dry run process selected. Toggle dry run off.
* The machine does not cut, many sparks visible. The process table is not set correctly or the cutting head or optics are dirty. Ensure correct focal offset, cut speed, cut height, and gas pressure in process table. Check that the nozzle tip is clean, wipe off slag with Scotchbrite.
* If the machine doesn't cut all the way through a part, a possible reason is that the wrong profile was selected in FabLight.
* Incorrect or the cutting head/optics are dirty. Verify cut process parameters including cut speed, cut height, and gas pressure. Check nozzle tip is clean, wipe off slag with Scotchbrite.
* Cut does not go all the way through material. Select correct process. Reduce cut speed. Increase assist gas pressure up to 145 PSI. Verify process table is correct. Verify beam centering and focus test. Inspect nozzle tip.
* If your machine has a rotary you may encounter two homing errors. If the touchscreen says, “Idler (the chuck that holds the right side of the tube) not homed. Move idler to home”, open the door and move the idler all the way to the right. There is a sensor that detects when the idler is in its home position. Once the idler is in the home position, close the message and repress HOME THE MACHINE. If you encounter an error message saying that the rotary is locked; simply pull out the red pin, close the message, and repress HOME THE MACHINE.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Just like any other machine tool, the FabLight must be cleaned regularly for optimal performance. Lack of regular preventive maintenance (PM) will lead to damaged machine components, a reduction in part quality, and machine downtime. Cleaning the entire machine takes on average 10 minutes to complete and is easy to do with a single person. Even if the machine does not appear to be dirty, over time metal particles can build up; for optimum machine performance you must adhere to the recommended PM schedule, even if the machine “does not appear to be dirty.”

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHSUXOYKm5Y}}

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Done
|-
|1
|General Cleaning
|Every 1-2 Weeks depending on usage rate
|Student
|N/A
|-
|2
|Clean Window
|Once a month
|Ace
|
|-
|3
|Lubricate drawer slides
|Quarterly
|Ace
|
|-
|4
|Apply WD-40 to rails
|Quarterly
|Ace
|
|-
|5
|Empty clean out drawer
|Once a month
|Ace
|
|}
# Vacuum out entire machine and wipe down the encoder strips with a paper towel. See [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHSUXOYKm5Y&feature=youtu.be this video] for details. Also wipe off the cutting head with a paper towel.
# Wipe down the inside of the window with a microfiber cloth, not the vacuum or a paper towel.
# Apply grease to the drawer slides to keep them operating smoothly.
# Spray the rails with WD-40 to lubricate and keep them clean.
# Open the drawer, remove any large parts by hand, and then vacuum out the rest.

Markforged 3D Printer

2025-08-28T23:30:13Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Markforged
|Has model=Mark II
|Has serial number=70a3238c-d43a-412a-814b-3f2d8758c8b9
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File:Mark 2 3D printer.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:mark_two.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The Mark II machine by Markforged.
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1241
|Has group=3D Printers
|Has ace=Spencer Monkewicz;smonkewicz22@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Mark Two is a desktop professional 3D printer capable of reinforcing parts with composite fiber, affording them durability and strength. It can print in a range of materials, including Nylon, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, and Kevlar.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2o02D94B4y8&feature=youtu.be&t=26}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
Inlay - embedding pieces of a different material into another, in this case embedding carbon fiber or another

Fiber - A non-plastic material which in this case comes in a strand/spool and is inlayed into the base plastic

Composite Materials - material made from two or more constituent materials with significantly different physical or chemical properties that, when combined, produce a material with characteristics different from the individual

Dry Box - dry box is a storage container in which the interior is kept at a low level of humidity, in this case in order to prevent the material from being damaged

Eiger - Software used to set up prints on the Mark Two, accessible from most browsers (i.e. Chrome). Account-based, requires an account to use.

Purge - Rapid printing of excess material which has been sitting in the machine lines for a long period of time. This helps ensure a print will be of acceptable quality by removing any potentially humidity compromised material from the lines

Onyx - Markforged prefered primary printing material. It is a vinyl base with chopped carbon fiber in the filament.

[[Media:Desktop Printer UserGuide.pdf|Markforged 3D Printer User Manual]]

[[Media:Desktop Printer QuickStartGuide.pdf|Markforged 3D Printer Quick Start Guide]]

[https://www.rdmag.com/article/2018/10/understanding-role-carbon-fiber-3d-printing Brief on Carbon Fiber Printing]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Mark II is a [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing|FDM Printer.]] See the main page for more background on the Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) process. What sets the Mark II apart is its ability to inlay various materials in the print using a second nozzle. These materials include carbon fiber, fiberglass, and kevlar. These smaller materials are located on the second, smaller spool in the rear of the build space. The inlaying of these materials can be customized in Eiger (the printing software for the Markforged). The main materials for the printer are nylon and onyx, this material is contained in the dry box (black box behind the printer) in order to limit moisture contamination. Don't open this unless you need to change the material. Nylon is a typical plastic filament, which provides a clean finish and some flexibility. Onyx is nylon with chopped carbon fiber. This provides more strength and a little less flexibility.

Prints on the Markforged must be started by a manager, as the software is account based.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete understanding of the Mark II, student will perform the setup and shut down procedures for printing a Coiler Winder.

====General Procedure====
# Software
## The Mark II utilizes cloud-based print software Eiger. This means that the software can be accessed from any browser, but an account is required to do so. As such, prints will need to be started by management.
## After login, the main screen returns to library. From this page, you can view and modify previous prints for reprinting or import a new STL for printing.
## Once imported or selected, print material may be selected (Onyx in this case) reinforcement type may be selected and orientation may be edited in the pane on the right. Clicking a part face will orient that face to the build plate. Reinforcement and material settings may be edited with drop-down menus (these are generally best done in the internal view). Brims and support may be toggled on or off from the Part Settings drop-down menu. All these options are available from part view.
## From internal view, density (number of layers of carbon fiber) may be viewed and edited using the slider at the bottom of the page (Blue is carbon fiber, White is main material).
## Material costs and totals may be viewed in the upper left of the part screen. It's worth noting the dramatic change in cost with addition of Carbon Fiber inlay.
## All Mark II prints should be okay-ed with Justin Johnson (the shop supervisor) before being started. Once setup is completed and the printer is on, prints are sent to the printer via the "Print" option. Generally, select the option to start the print from the machine, rather than automatically.
# Printer Setup
## The printer may be turned on with a switch on the rear of the machine. The machine will boot up and may need to update, let it complete this process.
## Before starting the print, glue needs to be applied to the build plate. Simply lift the build plate off the mount and apply the glue stick (found in the Markforged drawer/box) to the area where the print is located in the software (be sure to account for extra width due to the brim), the back of the plate where the machine will purge a line of material (print excess material which has been sitting in the lines and exposed to air), and the corner where the purge tower is located in the image below. [[File:Mark II Build Plate.jpg|thumb|A Mark II build plate with purge tower and purge line.|none]]
## Place the plate back on the mount. The Mark II is ready to print!
# Printer Shutdown
## Upon completion of the part, select clear bed on the touchscreen and remove the build plate from the mount. The purge line and tower should be easily removable by hand.
## For the part itself, take the putty knife found in the Markforged drawer/box and carefully remove the part. This may take quite a bit of force to accomplish. Make sure the blade of the putty knife and your hand will never come into contact if you slip (i.e.: brace the plate on the table and push the knife away from you along the plate). Work the knife along the perimeter of the part's attachment to the build plate and avoid prying with the knife when possible. [[File:Removing Parts from Mark II Build Plate.jpg|thumb|Removing parts from the Mark II build plate.|none]]
## After the part is removed, wash the plate with warm water only. When the plate is clean, dry it with a paper towel and place it back on the mounts.
## The plate is ceramic, avoid dropping it. The plate will absorb oil, it is normal to see fingerprints, etc. on the plate.

==Safety==
# Please take care when removing parts from the plate so as to NOT CUT YOURSELF with the putty knife. FDM printers use heating of material to form a 3D model, like a hot glue gun. As such, the extruder head of the printer will be warm. DO NOT TOUCH THE EXTRUDER when it is hot. Doing so will result in burns.
# Although this should be a non-issue, fiber strands are fairly thin and sharp. DON’T IMPALE YOURSELF.
# The top of the printer may be opened for maintenance and inspection. This leaves the gantry with the print head on it exposed. DO NOT PUT YOUR HAND IN THE MOVING MACHINERY. Doing so may result in pinching, crushing, cutting, “ouch”-ing, crying, and other unpleasant “-ings”.

==Approved Filaments==
*

==Certification==
Complete the Prototype Lab - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
See the the [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/categories/115000131204-Mark-Two Support Page] for troubleshooting guides.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

All maintenance will be performed by the Ace of the Mark II or managers. Specific maintenance tasks are listed below.
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Changing Materials
|When needed, Use the key located in ask managers or Justin to unlock the dry box

Follow [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/articles/208342553-Unload-Plastic Unload Plastic] instructions to remove what is left of current primary material.

Follow [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/articles/115000403824-Set-Up-and-Load-Plastic Set Up and Load Plastic] instructions to insert new primary material.

Follow [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/articles/115000543824-Unload-Fiber Unload Fiber] instructions to remove what is left of current inlay material.

Follow [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/articles/208198473-Set-Up-and-Load-Fiber Set Up and Load Fiber] instructions to insert new primary material.
|Ace or Managers
|-
|Calibration and Setup
|Follow [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/articles/207896386-Level-the-Print-Bed Level the Print Bed] instructions to level the print bed and set the correct nozzle heights.
|Ace or managers
|-
|Additional Calibration and Maintenance
|See the [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/categories/115000131204-Mark-Two Support Page] for additional maintenance and operation guides.
|Ace or managers
|}
<references />

Prusa XL

2025-08-28T23:28:43Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Prusa
|Has model= XL
|Has serial numbers=SN25028124319
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File:Prusa_Icon(1).png
|Has icondesc=Prusa XL Icon
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Prusa__XL.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Prusa XL
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has group=3D Printers
|Has ace=Allison Rodgers;arodgers24@georgefox.edu
}}

[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|170px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}})

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

== Description ==
The Prusa Xl is a large 3D printer that includes removeable heatbed, filament sensor and multiple print heads. These features can be used to create great prototypes. Multiple heads allow for multiple types of material to be used on one print. The Prusa XL uses [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing Anchor|FDM Printing]]. The Prusa XL is a prototyping device that works well for larger prototypes that could possibly be made from multiple materials. The Prusa XL has a hard time with complicated shapes, but it is great at simple models.

==== User manuals ====

[[Media:Prusa3d manual mk3 en 3 04.pdf|Prusa 3D Printer User Manual]]

==== '''Terminology''' ====
* Nozzle/Extruder: The nozzle (or extruder) is the part of a 3D printer which deposits the molten plastic filament onto the 3D printer bed. The extruder can reach 200°-300°C, depending on the filament used, but typically stays around 215°C for regular prints.
* Heatbed: The heatbed is a 14.17" x 14.17" x 14.17" plate where the filament will be "printed" on. The bed heats up to around 60°C. Heated beds typically prevent the plastic from warping by keeping it warm. Warping is a common issue that happens on 3D printers, where the plastic of the print cools at an uneven rate, leaving the print wavy and not the way you intended.
* Feeder: The feeder is the part of the 3D printer that "feeds" the filament to the nozzle. Sometimes "feeder" and "extruder" are used synonomously, so it's important when you're teaching someone to differentiate whether or not you're talking about the ''nozzle'' extruder or the ''feeder'' extruder. Feeders are typically composed of stepper motors, gears, and sometimes bolts and pulleys to guide the filament to the hot end.
* Fan: There are usually two fans on the nozzle of a 3D printer, and they serve the purpose of cooling the plastic as soon as it comes out of the nozzle. If the plastic is super hot, we don't want it to move as soon as it is in place on the part we're making, otherwise our part will turn out warped or failed. The fans are put in place to strategically cool the plastic as soon as it comes out of the nozzle. You are able to turn the fan speeds up and down in the slicer software (if that is a provided feature), but you can manually configure it on the printer as well.
* Stepper Motor: There are two main places where you'll find stepper motors on a 3D printer. There's a motor for each axes, one for the x, y, and z. These motors receive instructions from the gcode to move the certain axes at certain points to create your print. There is also a stepper motor in the extruder setup, pushing and pulling the filament whenever more or less is needed for the current print.
* Infill: Infill has to do with a 3D print's structural integrity. It can be multiple shapes and patterns (providing different strength optimizations), different sizes, and different thicknesses. Infill ranges anywhere from 0% (hollow) to 100% (solid). It is very unlikely you'll ever want a print to be 100% infill, because it takes an insane amount of filament and a lot of time to complete. Most 3D prints are 15% infill since it is the most optimal choice for cost efficiency and durability. If your concern is cost, a lesser infill density is a good way to go. If strength and mass is important, a higher density (between 30%-50%) is a good estimate. When using a higher infill, always double check to make sure it's a good idea for your part, and that you're using the right machine. Other 3D printers in the prototype lab have the option of a stronger filament than PLA or ABS, so it may be a better idea to print for strength on those rather than the Prusas.
* Filament: There are many different kinds of filament you can use on the 3D printer, ranging from PLA, to ABS, TPU to Nylon. The most common of these are PLA and ABS; the Prusas are usually set up with PLA. PLA stands for Polylactic Acid, it is the most common desktop 3D printing filament because it is odorless and very hard to warp on its own, therefore not always a need for a heated bed. ABS stands for Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene. It's one of the most commercial versions of plastic available (found in legos, packaging, and more)--it's durable, scratch resistant, and tough. Heated beds are a must with ABS filament because it is so temperature sensitive, so it warps very easily. The Prusas use 1.75 mm filament.
* CAD Modeling and Thingiverse: There are two ways you can 3D print models. You can either design your own with a CAD (computer-aided design) software, or you can find something similar to what you want on websites like Thingiverse. Thingiverse has all sorts of community-contributed designs, which you can download the .stl files for, slice, and print the models. As for modeling your own projects, there are multiple softwares you can use such as SolidWorks, AutoCAD, Autodesk Inventor, FreeCAD, and many more.
* Slicing: Each 3D printer uses a slicer software, a software where you can import the model file (usually an .stl file) onto a computerized build plate, resize, change up the nozzle and bed temperatures, adjust the infill and precision, and more. The slicer software takes into consideration all your configurations, then "slices" it into a .gcode file, a set of instructions for the x, y, and z dimensions. The 3D printer can read and tell the stepper motors what to do from the set of instructions within the gcode. The slicer software used for the Prusa XL is called Prusa Slicer.

==Multiple Materials on Prusa Slicer==
To use multiple filament you need to first make sure that you have multiple filaments in the Prusa that can be used.
* Go under the "Printer" drop down on the right tab, make sure that 'Original Prusa XL .4 nozzle'
is selected.
[[File:Prusa1.png|none|thumb|1108x1108px]]
* Click the 'Printer Settings' tab on the top left and set the number to 5 (even if you are not using 5 nozzles the number still needs to be 5. This is because the filament you need may be in the 5th position).
[[File:Prusa2.png|none|thumb|1108x1108px]]
* Go back to the platter and then add whatever filaments you will be using on the print.
[[File:Prusa3.png|none|thumb|1108x1108px]]
* Click the paint icon labeled 'multimaterial painting'. It is on the left panel of icons
[[File:Prusa4.png|none|thumb|1108x1108px]]
* The smart fill option will be the most useful, however you can use whichever feature you need. Left click to use the first filament and right click to use the second filament.
[[File:Prusa5.png|none|thumb|1108x1108px]]
* Now your file has multiple types of material!!
* I found this video very helpful
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhTc3jOhz8E&t=135s}}

==Priority Printing==
Due to the speed and capability for multiple print materials, prints for classes will take priority to personal prints. Especially during busier times, personal prints may be prohibited in order to give students the resources they need.
==Water Dissolvable Filament==
With multiple filaments being used on the Prusa XL, we have the ability to utilize water dissolvable filaments for supports on complex builds. This enables students to use the [[Dissolvable Support Bath]] to remove supports made of water dissolvable filament. To use the Bath, students still need to pass the canvas quiz for the bath and Prusa XL

== Training ==

==== Operation ====
Printing on the Prusa will always start with an STL file that you export from Solidworks or download from the internet. However, the printer cannot interpret a STL file and must be converted to a gcode file which instructs the printer on how to complete the print. The process of creating a gcode is called "slicing" and is done in the Prusa Slicer software. Prusa Slicer allows you to customize any part of the print process and is color coded to distinguish simple settings from expert settings so you can tell which settings can be adjusted without risk of messing things up. For the most part, the preset setting options will work well but feel free to experiment with settings to improve print detail or speed (check out [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kW9SnK4LKc this video] for example). After you have sliced your STL file the rest of the setup is simple. Save the new gcode to the SD card found in the printer, turn on the machine, select "print from SD card" to find your file, and then click to start the print. Make sure to clean the print bed with isopropyl alcohol before the print starts and watch the print for the first five minutes to make sure it doesn't fail. Also, the video below walks through the setup process in detail starting from downloading a stl file which is helpful.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ttg2wEjD784&list=PLP1rv37BojTfJ5TjDXiSNqDnEPnvChsYZ&index=11}}

==== Demonstration ====
The student will need download, setup, and successfully start a print of their choice, providing it is within reason and follows Prototype Lab guidelines. If possible, they should stay as long as possible in case a print fails, which will be an opportunity to teach them basic troubleshooting of the machine.
==== General Procedure ====
Setting up a print:
# Once you have a model you would like to print (which you can find on either thingiverse or model one yourself), you will be using a software called Prusa Slicer to slice your .stl files into a .gcode file, which the printer will interpret and print your model from.
# Open Prusa Slicer. When you open Prusa Slicer, it looks like this:[[File:Slicer Home.png|none|thumb|1108x1108px]]At the top, you have your basic toolbar where you can import files and fine tune print settings. The toolbar on the left side of the screen is used for rotating/orienting, moving, scaling, and even cutting the model. The window on the right side of the screen is used to select the printer being used and select preset print settings. You can also choose between simple, advanced, and expert settings in this window. Feel free to select any of these modes. Throughout the software each setting is color coded to match these skill levels to make it easy to tell which settings are simplest to adjust.
#To import your file, click on "File > Import > Import STL", and you'll be presented with your file system to choose whatever model you have ready. Click "open" to import the file.
#Once the model is imported you will need to orient it correctly. The toolbar on the left has two options for doing this. One is the basic rotate tool which allows you to rotate a specific number of degrees around any axis. You can drag the model with this tool as well but this is not advised because you may not line the face up with the print bed properly which may result in print errors. If you do not know the rotation angle you need use the second option, place on face, to rotate one face of your model to match the print bed. The correct orientation will change based on your model so make sure to check out the short video below for some tips.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGhgaypou6E&list=PLTCCNNvHC8PDR_jQy609toqq8EAfhiOOL&index=26}}
#Set the rest of the object setting using the left toolbar.
#* In the Position settings, you can adjust where on the printer bed you would like your print to start. Due to automatic bed leveling, the center of the printer bed is always the best place to put your model. If you are printing multiple parts, then arrange everything from the center outwards. You can click and drag your model around and see the change in the X and Y coordinates, and if you need it to be super precise, you can use the keyboard to change the values in the Position settings.
#* Scale is important, it determines how large you want your print to be. If you modeled your print to specific dimensions, Prusa Slicer will import it with the correct dimensions, and you can skip this section. If it is too large, you can scale the model down to 70%-90% and see how that affects the size, and vice versa, changing the scale to 110%-130% if need be.
#Set the correct printer settings.
#* The quality of the print has to do with the size of each individual layer. The finer the quality, the longer the time is to print your model. Almost always you'll want your print to be Optimal quality (0.15mm), since about all prints turn out good with that setting, but you can choose from several other presets as well. A smaller layer height will allow for more definition in the vertical plane but will take longer to print. Each layer height has a preset for fast and quality that you can choose from based on your print needs. If you are feeling adventurous then the pint and printer settings can be individually adjusted instead of using a preset.
#* Next, you'll change the infill. If you don't know how much infill you need, check out the definition of infill above or talk to the supervisor for help. This option will almost always stay at 15% infill.
#* Now we come to support! Support is extra material printed around your model to support tougher geometric angles and overhangs that the printer can't get to on its own. It is easily torn off at the end of the print.
#* The Brim option is for bed adhesion. You will typically want this option, since it helps prevent the warping of the part you are printing. A brim is most important for prints that have a small surface area that is in contact with the plate.
# When all those settings are complete, you can click "Slice now" in the bottom right corner, and Slicer will give you a time and filament estimate for your print. If they seem reasonable, you can save the newly "sliced" .gcode file to the SD card that will go into the printer! Do this by clicking "Export G code." You can always go back and adjust the settings to fit your time and/or filament needs before saving the file.
Starting a Print:
# Thoroughly clean the build plate with isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel.
# Once you have the gcode file on the SD card, put the SD card into the Prusa (on the left side of the orange menu), and turn the printer on using the power switch on the left side of the printer. The printer will read the SD card and initialize itself, then you can start.
# In the menu, there is an option you want called "Print from SD Card" that will take you to a list of all the .gcode files on the SD card. Select this by rotating the knob until this option is highlighted and then press down on the knob.
# Search until you find your file, and then select it.
# Make sure there is enough filament on the printer for your print, or it will fail midway!
# Naturally, the printer will set itself up for PLA settings, which is approximately 215°C for the extruder, and 60°C for the heated bed. This will take a few minutes. Often filament will start oozing out of the nozzle once it is fully heated, but don't worry, the printer will clean off the filament after calibration. If these temperatures are not correct, click to open a menu and the scroll to the "Tune" option. From there the temperatures can be adjusted.
# Make sure that there are no filament strings attached to the nozzle as the print is starting.
# Watch the print for at least 5 minutes to make sure it adheres properly and then every 5 minutes for the next 20 minutes.
Finishing a Print:
# When the print completes successfully, the Prusa will delightfully present the print by moving the print bed forward, and the extruder will go back to the homing location. On the menu screen it will display how long the last print took, and the other normal settings like the temperature of the print bed and nozzle.
# To get the print off of the bed, take the magnetic steel bed off and bend it just slightly to pop the brim of the print off of the bed. From there you can take the print off carefully by hand.
# If the print was successful, congratulations! If not, time to diagnose the problem and try again.
# Put the magnetic bed back onto the Prusa, and if there are no more prints needing to be done, power it off.
Loading New Filament:
# When the printer runs out of filament, typically you'll want to find a shop aid to help you change the filament.
# All you need to do is go to the menu, select the "Unload Filament" option, and the printer should start heating up.
# Once it heats up, it'll unload the filament and you can pull it out of the extruder.
# Be sure to tuck the end of the filament through one of the holes on the spool before storing it. If this is not done, it can cause knots in the spool which cause failed prints and damage to printers.
# As for loading new filament, find the option in the menu labelled "Autoload Filament", and the printer will walk you through the instructions for loading the new spool of filament.
Pausing or Stopping a Print:
# To pause a print in the middle of the job, press the knob and it'll pull up a printing menu. There are two options near the bottom, "Stop Print" and "Pause Print". If the print is failing, you definitely want to stop it. If you need to change filament or think you can save the print before it fails anymore, you can pause the print.
Possible Print Failure Causes:
# Failure of material to adhere to the bed.
# No support around the model.
# The first layer of the print warps.
# The brim gets torn and dragged around

==TVs==

Looking for a project that uses the Prusa 3D printer? Check out this TV for an [[Egg Shaker]].

== Safety ==
* Be careful what you touch; the nozzle and filament leaving it are over 200°C which will easily cause burns. Although only 60°C, the build plate should not be touched during printing.
* Keep hands away from the travel rods because they will pinch fingers with ease.
* Support material can be sharp so be careful when removing it.

==Approved Filaments==
* PLA
* PETG (seek assistance from the Prototype Lab staff to set up a Prusa to print with PETG)
* TPU

==Certification==
Complete the Prototype Lab - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]

== Troubleshooting ==
Here are some ways your print can fail in the beginning, and how to troubleshoot it:
* '''Brim is pulled off of bed and dragged around by the nozzle:''' If it's just starting the brim of the print and having trouble adhering to the bed, you can pull off the first few rounds of the brim and let the print continue. Sometimes the outer part of the brim has more trouble adhering than the inner parts. If it continues to fail, stop the print. Make sure you have the best orientation possible for your part, make sure the nozzle of the printer is clean, and try starting the print again. If it continues to fail, find a supervisor to help you.
* '''Parts of the print detach mid-print:''' Stop the print. Often if parts of the print detach from the model it is due to failure to adhere to support. Ask a supervisor if the geometry of your part is too complex for the Prusas. If not, adjust the sizing, change around some support settings, and try the print again. If it continues to fail, try to break the part into smaller prints and assemble them when done.
* '''Extruded filament is too thin/not adhering to layers OR Filament will not come out of nozzle:''' When the filament is too thin or not coming out, there is often a blockage or small piece of filament in the extruder. Ask a supervisor for help.
* '''Print will not adhere to bed:''' If your 3D print will not adhere to the bed after lots of tries, the last resort can be some glue stick. For trickier prints with small bases, sometimes this is the trick. Always make sure you try the brim option before using the glue stick on the printer. When the print is finished, clean off the printer bed.
* '''Support fails:''' If the support gets really stringy as the print continues and in turn fails the print, see if you can have a supervisor help you change the density of the support. Double check that the printer is not shaking too much as you print your model. If you still don't know what to do after your print fails, ask a supervisor.
* '''First layer of print warps:''' If the first layer of your print warps and affects the rest of your print, lower the bed temperature, and start the print again. If it continues to warp, try adding some adhesive on the printer bed.
* '''Thermal Runaway:''' Thermal Runaway is a safety feature designed to prevent the printer from accidentally catching fire. If your printer's thermistor would somehow dislodge itself, electronic parts would get a lower (incorrect) temperature reading. In an attempt to compensate for the lower temperature, the heater would reach dangerously high temperatures, with the printer potentially becoming a fire hazard. Thermal Runaway prevents that from happening. Thermal Runaway is configured to shut down the printer when the temperature drops by more than 15°C for more than 45 seconds. If the temperature reading doesn't recover in the set time period, the printer will shut down and display the Thermal Runaway error. All hotend heaters are thoroughly tested, so they can run at 200°C with the print cooling fan at a 100% speed. To print materials that require higher temperatures (like PLA at 215°C), the speed of the fan must be decreased in the Prusa Slicer software or manually during the print. Incorrect fan speeds are sometimes the result of using gcode from a different type of printer. Pay attention to your prints as they start the second layer, as this is usually when the print cooling fan kicks in.

 

If your issue or error is not found here, ask the supervisor for help, or you can research on this website: https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#section-fdm-3d-printing-problems-my-print-failed

Failed Calibration:

If the printer fails while calibrating, there will be an error message that suggests you clean the nozzle off and retry the print.

Crash Detected:

When the nozzle hits something it's not used to, such as an obstruction in the print, the print bed, or something else that stops the extruder from moving, the printer will error and say it crashed. It will ask you to clean off any excess filament and stuff that gets in the way of the extruder. If it continues to fail because of a crash, ask a supervisor for help.

== Maintenance ==

==== Specific Maintenance Tasks ====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|1
|Wiping Down Buildplate
|Before every new print
|Student
|-
|2
|Cleaning of Nozzle
|When needed
|Ace
|-
|3
|Clean and lubricate travel rods
|When needed
|Ace
|}
# Grab a paper towel from the sink and the isopropyl alcohol from next to the Formlabs printer. Use these to wipe down the build plate and make sure you do not touch the plate after doing this because that will get oils on it.
# Raise the print head in the z axis until the nozzle is easily accessible. Use tweezers, paper towels, isopropyl alcohol, or any other substances to remove filament from the nozzle. If the nozzle is clogged, use a wrench to remove it and clean out any filament inside. A heat gun may be helpful for this.
# Wipe down the smooth travel rods with a paper towel and then re-lubricate them. Clean the threaded rods with a brush and then re-lubricate them.

Through Hole Press

2025-01-17T17:48:23Z

Justinj:

[[File:...PressyBoi.png|thumb]]

{{#set:
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|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Bungard
|Has model=PL-FAVORIT
|Has serial number=2018-2231
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File: Through_hole_pressIcon.png
|Has icondesc=Through Hole Press Icon
|Has iconwname=File:image_pending.png
|Has image=File:through_hole_press_image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The Favorit Through Hole Press
|Has description=
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|Has ace=Evan Hatch;ehatch21@georgefox.edu
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[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
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Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Through Hole Press is a hand-operated through hole plating machine using rivets. A rivet is a component used to easily connect traces that are transitioning between the top and bottom layers of a PCB. As a whole, it is known as a via. Specifically, it is a small hollow copper tube that can be inserted on one side of the board, then - using a specialized rivet tool like the Through Hole Press - the rivets are pressed and deformed to connect both sides. There are other methods that carry out the same function, but using rivets is the fastest and most consistent method. {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ywfjknf6Vtg}}{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nz1TcfEnw-o}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
<gallery>
File:Pcb-trace-geometry-2.png|Trace
File:...via.png|Via
File:...rivet.png|Rivet
File:...rubberMallet.png|Rubber Mallet
</gallery>

[[Media:Favorit manual e.pdf|Through Hole Press User Manual]]

[[Media:Through hole press instructions and size chart.pdf|Instructions and Size Chart]]

[https://www.bungard.de/index.php/en/products/through-hole-plating-line/through-hole-plating Product Home Page]

==Training==
====Operation====

Rivets are used to connect traces on the top and bottom layers of a PCB. Traces are paths of conductive ink that connect components. Rivets can be pressed using either the Through Hole Press or a rubber mallet. Each method has its perks, so students will learn both methods.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the press, the student will press 2 rivets by using a rubber mallet and 2 rivets using the press. A test PCB with many holes of different sizes will be provided and reused among students.

====General Procedure====

#Hole Sizing
##Before pressing a rivet, you need to make sure you design the holes so that they fit well. For a rivet to fit nicely in a hole, the hole diameter needs to be 0.1 mm (3.9 mils) larger than the rivet outer diameter. Use the table below to see what types of rivets Voltera offers. Also, refer to the chart below to assure you have the right size rivet for the hole you are pressing it into.[[File:Through_hole_press_chart_snippet.PNG|none|thumb|500x500px]][[File:...rivetTable.png|none|thumb]]'''NOTE: Currently the tool for 0.4mm rivets is broken, so this size should not be used in designs. Use 0.6mm rivets instead.'''
##Additionally, these rivets are hollow, so these can also be used to secure headers on your PCB. When placing vias in your design program, ensure the right drill size is used so the PCB Printer leaves enough space when printing the ink.
#Using Through Hole Press
##Follow the instructions in the following video for setting up the correct tool set for your rivet.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWoPXiklzl0}}
##You will need to place all the rivets into the board. Some like to use their fingers, some like to use tweezers, it is up to you. Pinching the rivets on the side is the easiest way to go, as shown in the picture below.[[File:...rivetPlacing.png|none|thumb]]
##The through hole press pretty much just flattens down the other side on the rivet. Once all rivets have been placed, you will need to turn it upside down while keeping the rivets snug inside the hole in order to flatten the other side. Find a flat unused PCB, place it over the rivets, and turn it upside down to keep them from falling out. Using some tape to keep the plate stable on the board is something to try if things are not quite going your way.[[File:...rivetFlip.png|none|thumb]]
##Before pressing the rivets, you need to make sure you have the right tool inserted into the upper and lower parts of the press. These tools can be found in the drawer in front of the press. The tool you choose should have the same inside diameter of the rivet you want to press.
##Now it is time to press the rivets. Place the board over the pin of the lower tool and fit a rivet over the pin as far as possible. To flatten the other side of the rivet, press the lever until it reaches the stop pin, then release. [[File:...rivetPress.png|none|thumb]]
##Your rivet should change somewhat like this. Pressing the rivet too hard can cause it to crack and damage the traces on the board, yet pressing the rivet too softly will to a poor job because it will not make a firm connection with the traces. It should be hit just hard enough to deform the rivet to make a firm connection with the traces. With practice, you'll learn the right amount of pressure to apply. [[File:...rivetBeforeAfter.png|none|thumb]]
#Using the Rubber Mallet
##Rivets can also be pressed using a rubber mallet! The setup for the through hole press apply here as well. This method is faster than the Through Hole Press, but it is not as consistent.
##You will need to place all the rivets into the board. Some like to use their fingers, some like to use tweezers, it is up to you. Pinching the rivets on the side is the easiest way to go, as shown in the picture below.[[File:...rivetPlacing.png|none|thumb]]
##The through hole press pretty much just flattens down the other side on the rivet. Once all rivets have been placed, you will need to turn it upside down while keeping the rivets snug inside the hole in order to flatten the other side. Find a flat unused PCB, place it over the rivets, and turn it upside down to keep them from falling out. Using some tape to keep the unused PCB stable on the board is something to try if things are not quite going your way. [[File:...rivetFlip.png|none|thumb]]
##Using the rubber mallet and the rivet tool, you can press the rivet as shown in the picture below. Place the tip of the tool inside the rivet in an upright position, then hit the top of the tool with the mallet. The rivet tool can be found in the drawers in front of the PCB Printers.[[File:...rubberMalletPress.png|none|thumb]]
##Your rivet should change somewhat like this. Pressing the rivet too hard can cause it to crack and damage the traces on the board, yet pressing the rivet too softly will to a poor job because it will not make a firm connection with the traces. It should be hit just hard enough to deform the rivet to make a firm connection with the traces. With practice, you'll learn the right amount of pressure to apply. Come stop by![[File:...rivetBeforeAfter.png|none|thumb]]

==Safety==
There is not much that can hurt you while using the machine or the rubber mallet. Do not put any part of yourself under the through hole press, because it will try to punch a hole in you. The same idea goes with the mallet and the '''rivet''' tool. Do not swing it or do any dumb stuff. This should not have to be said, but people are dumb sometimes. Please do not be that person.

As for the through hole press and its tools, there any many things that could damage it. Especially tools for small rivet diameter (0.4 and 0.6 mm) are sensitive and require careful handling. The tip of the upper tool and springloaded pin of the bottom tool '''should be guarded against damage.''' Avoid any excessive pressure on both parts! For transport reasons the tip of the lower tool may be hidden inside of the tool body. If so, carefully turn in the headless screw, until the tip shows up again, but still can be pushed into the body again.

==Certification==
Complete the PCB Lab - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/GH36RT Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
If a rivet is not connecting the top and bottom layer traces, it is probably not pressed well, meaning it is not making good contact with the trace on both layers. A well placed rivet gives a good connection that is resistant to bending and twisting. In order to obtain a good long-term stability, we recommend that you apply our SUR-TIN immersion tin. This will help to prevent corrosion at the transition layer of the rivet and the copper clad (and will increase solderability). If you place component leads in the rivet holes and solder them from one side only, you should avoid thermal stress to the rivet. Certainly if solder passes the rivet it can cause the rivet to grow under the heat so that the rivet becomes loose. In such case, you should solder fix both rivet collars to the pads before inserting component leads.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

There is little to no maintenance to be done on this machine. Just be sure to reset the space, put away any rivets, tools, and PCBs that you have used.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and After each use, put away any rivets, tools, and PCBs that you have used
|Student
|}

__TOC__

Rework Station

2025-01-17T17:47:19Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
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[[File:Rework Station.jpg|thumb]]
[[File:Solder Rework Station.png|left|110x110px|frameless]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

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__TOC__

==Description==

The Rework Station is essential for fixing what you messed up during the fabrication process. Consisting of an Air Bath, Air Pencil, and Air Pick, the Rework Station allows you heat up a specific area of the PCB and make modifications, whether that means adding/removing some solder on the pads, rotating a component, or completely replacing a component. Other tools are available for similar purposes, such as a desoldering gun, and an additional heat gun for larger components.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_yFDpSTfao}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
<gallery>
File:...airBath.jpg|Air Bath (ZT-1-CLS-DPU)
File:...airPencil.jpg|Air Pencil (ZT-2)
File:...airPick.jpg|Air Pick (ZT-3)
File:...desolderingGun.jpg|Desoldering Gun (Hakko FR-301)
File:...heatGun.jpg|Heat Gun (Quick861DW)
</gallery>

[http://www.zeph.com/smdpreheater.htm Zephyrtronics Airbath]

[http://www.zeph.com/pencil.html Zephyrtronics Airpencil]

[http://www.zeph.com/zt3web.htm Zephyrtronics Airpick]

[[Media:Fr301e20180402.pdf|Hakko FR-301 User Manual]]

[[Media:861DW-english--manual.pdf|Quick-861DW User Manual]]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Airbath can heat up to 205 °C, which can be enough to melt the solder on a PCB. Some solder melts at even higher temperatures than this, which can be achieved using the Air Pencil and/or Heat Gun. Essentially, the Air Bath heats up the board and the Air Pencil finishes the job by heating up the part of the board that we want to fix (because we don't want to melt the solder on the parts that are already good to go). This is where the Air Pick and tweezers come in. After heating up the part we want to fix, the tweezers are used to remove a component while the Air Pick uses a vacuum to place a component on the board. If the component is too small, using tweezers to pick up the component is also a good alternative.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the Air Bath, Air Pencil, Air Pick, Desoldering Gun, and Heat Gun, the student will have a PCB prepared and perform tasks with the station as a whole. Using the Air Bath, Air Pencil, and Air Pick, students will remove a SMD and solder it back on. Using the Desoldering Gun, students will remove a soldered through hole component. Using the Heat Gun, students will mount a larger SMD, solder it on, and then remove it.

====General Procedure====

#Fixing/Replacing SMD Components
##Before turning on the Air Bath, clamp the PCB on the black stand, preferably placing it so that the component you want to fix is directly above the air. You should not be able to move the board once it is clamped. Keeping it sturdy helps from accidentally moving the PCB during the reworking process.
##The Air Bath has a power switch on the left, three buttons on the right, and a screen on the right. The switch has 3 positions which allows you to choose Cool, Off, and Warm by pressing it in their respective directions. The button on the right allow you to adjust the temperature in a rather funny way. The middle button has a down arrow while the right button has an up arrow, indicating which button decreases/increases the temperature of the bath. However, you need to hold down the left button while doing so. For instance, to increase the temperature, you would hold the left and right buttons at the same time.[[File:AirBathBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
##Now you will heat up the Air Bath. Hit the Power switch on the front, and set the temperature about 20-30 °C below the solder's melting point. The melting point for your solder can be found using the table below. Voltera's Solder Paste (Orange) melts at lower temperatures than the Sn63Pb37 Solder Paste (Blue). If the Voltera Solder Paste says T4 at the top, heat the Air Bath to 180 °C. If the Voltera Solder Paste says T5 at the top, heat the Air Bath to 150 °C. If you are using the Sn63Pb37 Solder Paste, heat the Air Bath to 150 °C. [[File:...meltingPointTable.png|none|thumb]]
##Once the board is heated, you can use the Air Pencil to heat up a specific component. The pencil blows hot air out the end. When you turn it on, adjust the settings to be 3/4 of the heat capacity and about 1/3 of the air flow. We do this because when the air flow is maximized at full temperature, it does not get hot enough to melt the solder. Too much air flow is bad.
##Hold the tip of the pencil over the SMD you want to solder/desolder, and move it slightly around the leads to allow for more distribution of heat. If it is not heating it up, try turning the heat of the pencil higher. This should allow for your SMD components solder to melt, and you will be able to pick up the component up with a pair of static-safe tweezers or the Air Pick. If you are soldering a part on, make sure to generously apply flux to the pads, and make sure all the solder sticks to the pads after heating.
##If the pencil is not doing a good enough job to heat up the component, then you may graduate to using the bigger heat gun, the Quick861DW. The same theoretical concepts apply, however, one potential downside of this is that it affects a larger area than the pencil. You may unintentionally melt the solder of components that you don't want to melt, so be extra careful my dudes.
##The Air Pick uses a vacuum to pick up and place components. Typically you would use both hands for this; one hand heats up the component with the pencil and the other grabs the component with the pick.
##On the handle of the pick there is a divot that is connected to the vacuum. When you plug the divot with your finger, it will enable it to pick up a component. When you release your finger from the divot, it will let go of the component. There are different tips that you will place on the end of the tip based on the component you want to pick up, each having a different size for varying components.
#Desoldering Through Hole Components
##For desoldering through hole components, you will want to use the Desoldering Gun. It has a hot tip that can fit over a solder joint and utilizes a vacuum when the trigger is pulled. As a result, it melts the solder and sucks it into a cartridge, completely removing the joint.
##Before using the Desoldering Gun, make sure you have the little metal stand for the gun to sit on for safety purposes. Have Solder ready nearby to tin the tip before use, and clean the tip after tinning using the wire mesh.
##On the handle of the gun there is a temperature control wheel that ranges from 1-4 (coolest to hottest). Be sure to set it to the correct temperature using the graphic below. Typically, a through hole component would require you to set the scale to 2.[[File:...SolderingGun.png|none|thumb]]
##To use the Desoldering Gun, briefly put the top over a solder joint (not completely on the PCB or you might damage it), press the trigger to enable the vacuum, and the solder should be sucked away!
##Tin the tip before cooldown, and take note that the cooldown may take a bit of time. Don't burn yourself!

==Safety==
The most important thing about all these machines: THEY GET REALLY HOT!

Be so so careful because these machines can get up to temperatures of potentially 700°F. Always be wary of where you are blowing the hot air with the air guns, so you don’t melt other things. Be wary of how hot your PCB can get, and always put the cooling setting on after you’re finished with the Air Bath before picking your PCB up, because you can burn yourself.

==Certification==
Complete the PCB Lab - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/GH36RT Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==

#Suppose the solder isn't melting. Consult the temperature table in the General Procedure, chances are that you just need to make it hotter, little by little.
#Suppose the Air Pick is not picking up the component. Use the appropriate tip and make sure you are plugging the little divot to enable it to pick up. If these aren't working, resort to using tweezers.
#Suppose the components are getting blown away from the pads you want it to sit on. Well, turn down the air my dude.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Wrap all cords and make them look tidy. Make sure all devices are turned off and returned to their original place. Do not leave tweezers or extra parts laying around, put them back in the accessories drawer.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after every use
|Student
|-
|Tinning tip of Desoldering Gun
|Before and after every use
|Student
|-
|Emptying solder out of desoldering gun reservoir
|As needed
|Student/Ace
|-
|Replacing desoldering gun filter
|As needed
|Ace
|}

Reflow Oven

2025-01-17T17:45:57Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=LPKF
|Has model=ProtoFlow S N2
|Has serial number=0Z2701N343
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File:reflow_oven_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Reflow Oven Icon
|Has image=File:protoflow.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Protoflow Reflow Oven
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1297
|Has group=Circuit Board Design
|Has ace=Evan Hatch;ehatch21@georgefox.edu
}}
[[File:Reflow oven icon.png|left|140x140px|frameless]]
[[File:....theOven.jpg|thumb|400x400px]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Reflow Oven (ProtoFlow S N2) is LPKF's premiere convection oven, ideal for lead-free reflow soldering, meeting the stringent demands of rapid PCB soldering applications. The Reflow Oven features even heat distribution, easy programming, and many pre-defined temperature profiles. The compact design and efficient power consumption make it one of the most useful components in any rapid PCB prototyping environment. {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zsvn2-WkZLk}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
<gallery>
File:bake_ink_selection.jpg|LCD Dispay
File:bake_go.jpg|Tray
</gallery>

[[Media:LPKF ProtoFlow S, User manual, ENG, v2.11.pdf|Reflow Oven User Manual]]

[[Media:protoflow_datasheet.pdf|Reflow Oven Datasheet]]

[https://www.lpkfusa.com/products/pcb_prototyping/smt_assembling/protoflow_s/ Product Home Page]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Reflow Oven bakes PCBs to harden the traces and pads where components are laid. It's just like your oven at home with a few extra accessories, like preset profiles that adjust the temperature and time based on the ink/paste you put on your board.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the oven, the student will have a PCB prepared by the PCB Printer and follow the instructions in the General Procedure.

====General Procedure====
# Power the Reflow Oven on by pressing the power button on the front.
# Select the respective ink/paste on the LCD Display. Different inks and pastes have different heat cycles, so it is important that you choose the right one. You can scroll through the options using the Up and Down keys. The Left key goes back, and the Right key selects. In this specific instance, V1 Ink is selected. Recall that each dispenser is assigned to a color. Green is V1 Ink, Orange is V1 Paste, and Blue is Sn63Pb37.[[File:bake_ink_selection.jpg|300x300px|none|link=https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/File:Bake_ink_selection.jpg]]
# The oven will warm up. When its ready, select "Enter" to open the tray.
# '''DANGER: The rails could be HOT! Take caution.''' Place the board securely on the rails.[[File:bake_place.jpg|300x300px|none|link=https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/File:Bake_place.jpg]]
# Select "Enter" to close the tray.
# The preheat will take 2 minutes. The baking process takes about 30 minutes for traces and 3 minutes for the paste.
# The tray will automatically open to initiate the cool down phase. At the end of this process, the traces and pads will harden. '''DO NOT remove the board until the oven says all the stages are complete. DANGER: The rails are HOT!'''
# When cool down is complete, remove the board from the oven, and turn off the oven.

==Safety==
# '''Never''' place anything in front of the oven door inside of the yellow striped area. This could result in severe damage to the oven.
# Under no circumstances may the lab be left unattended for more than a brief minute while the oven is running.
# Always follow the instructions on the LCD Display. It is your guide that keeps you safe.
# When the tray opens up after baking a board, be patient and let the board cool down. If you handle it while it is too hot, it can burn you and shift your components (not good).
# Once you are finished using the Reflow Oven, clean the inside and turn it off. '''RESET THE SPACE'''.
# If you do not want to risk being burnt by the rails when you place your board in the oven, open the tray and place your board '''BEFORE''' beginning the baking process.
# If you do get burnt, immediately place the burn under cold running cold water for a while. There is a sink to the right of the oven to help you out. This keeps it from blistering.

==Certification==
Complete the PCB Lab - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/GH36RT Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
There are little to no issues to run into while using the oven. The most common issue is failure to select the correct profile, which results in non-hardened traces and pads. Remember, Green is V1 Ink, Orange is V1 Paste, and blue is SN63Pb37. If this happens, simply bake the board again using the correct profile. In the event that something happens out of the ordinary, follow the table below.

[[File:...ovenTroubleshooting.png|none|thumb]]

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The oven should always be clean. Make sure it is clean before and after use. If something is not working and needs to be fixed, refer to the table above in the Troubleshooting section.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
Refer to the table in the Troubleshooting section for advanced solutions.
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Remove Debris
|Before and after each use
|Student
|}
__TOC__

 <references />

Pick and Place

2025-01-17T17:13:35Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=true
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=LPKF
|Has model=Protoplace S
|Has serial number=0Z2701L006
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File:Pick & place icon.png
|Has icondesc=Pick and Place icon
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Pick_&_place.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Pick and Place Machine
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1294
|Has ace=Evan Hatch;Ehatch21@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

Pick & Place (Protoplace S) is a semi-automatic pick & place system for the professional assembly of Surface Mount Technology (SMT) printed circuit board prototypes and small batch projects. It is capable of dispensing solder paste, glues, and adhesives, but we typically use it just for placing minuscule components on PCBs.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=maV2KG8O29A}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
# Micro-Table
## This clamps PCBs as large as 297mm x 420mm (11.8” x 16.5”). Knobs at the front of the micro-table allow for fine adjustments along the X and Y axes, which are ideal for the placement of complex components.
# Manipulator
## The manipulator is what picks & places components. It is also capable of dispensing solder paste, glues, and adhesives with the dispenser attachment, however, we will not use these features. The manipulator can reach everywhere on the micro-table that will be needed for projects, including the turntable. The manipulator uses the vacuum and appropriate needle attachment in order to pick & place components.
# Manipulator Knob
## The knob above the box on the manipulator rotates the nozzle; so it rotates components sucked on the knob.
# Turntable
## The turntable is what houses the components used in the project. The turntable can be controlled using the keyboard and LCD display.
# Micro Camera and Monitor
## The micro camera captures the end of the nozzle so that you can view (on the monitor) an accurate representation of where the component will be placed.
[[File:Pick And Place.png|none|thumb|500x500px]]

[[Media:Lpkf protoplace manual (eng).pdf|Pick and Place User Manual]]

[[Media:ProtoPlace_S_Specifications_'16.pdf|Pick and Place Datasheet]]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Pick and Place organizes and helps place minuscule surface mount components by using a vacuum and a nozzle that is triggered by the amount of pressure applied to the nozzle (pushing down on a component).

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the Pick and Place, the Student will have a PCB Prepared by the PCB Printer and follow the instructions in the General Procedure.

====General Procedure====
# Turn on the machine. The switch is located in the back left (if viewed from the front of the machine).
# Ensure that the correct vacuum tip is attached to the manipulator. If the tip is larger than the parts you are trying to pick up, then you need to change out the tip for something smaller. You can change tips for various sized components during the process.
## '''Do not use nozzles too large or the component will get sucked into the machine and the machine will get damaged.'''
# Place all of the parts needed for the project into their own sections on the turntable.
## It would be a good idea to have a separate section for each component for organization purposes (for yourself and others).
## Use a sticky note or labeling system of some sort for different components like resistor values.
## The turntable can be operated by selecting either Auto or Manual from the place menu, and then selecting Turntable. Press the left and right arrows to rotate clockwise and counter-clockwise.
# Turn on the monitor that will display the output of the micro camera. This will help you view your part while you are placing it on the pads.
# Clamp your board onto the microtable. You should not be able to move your board when it is secured.
# On the LCD, using the keyboard:
## Place -> auto/manual.
## Manual mode will only turn on the vacuum when sufficient pressure is applied to the nozzle (when you press the nozzle onto a component).
## Auto mode will always have the vacuum enabled.
# Let's assume we are in manual mode for the remainder of this procedure (easier because you can't accidentally pick up components). Move the manipulator to the desired component. Grab the component by pushing the nozzle down onto the surface of the component.
## '''Be sure that the component is not upside down!'''
# Move the manipulator and component to the position that the footprint is located (it doesn’t have to be exact yet). Using the keyboard and LCD screen, hit the Brake option on the right of the LCD screen. This locks the manipulator so you cannot move it like you normally do which makes it easy to place your components.
# You can use the fine knobs on the front of the pick and place to make precise movements as well as the camera to assure you are placing it correctly on the pads.
## A higher resolution view can be seen on the monitor that’s output from the micro camera.
# Using the keyboard and LCD screen, hit the Place option. It places the component straight down for you!
# Repeat this process until all components are placed.
# Upon completion, refer to the instructions on the Reflow Oven wiki. The solder has not been solidified yet, so be careful with your board so you do not move components. Remember to select the correct setting: V1 Paste if you are using Voltera's special Ink and Paste, and Sn63Pb37 for prefabricated PCBs.
# '''RESET THE SPACE!''' Remove any notes and clean up any lost components.

==Safety==
There is almost nothing you can do on this device that will hurt you. If you place your hand under the nozzle and then smash down the nozzle, you will hurt yourself. Do not do this for obvious reasons.

However, there are things that can hurt the Pick and Place.
# Be gentle with how you treat the nozzle; press down gently when picking and placing components.
# Be sure to use a smaller nozzle than the component you are trying to place! Failure to do this results in sucking up the component into the nozzle which can clog it and prevent the vacuum from being effectively used.

==Certification==
Complete the PCB Lab - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/GH36RT Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
# There are two monitors above the pick and place machine. You’ll want to have your Altium Schematic on one and the altium PCBDoc opened up so you can follow along as you’re placing and double checking things while you’re going.
# Don’t try to get the component exactly at the location of the pads without the brake. It’s quicker if you get it in the general area and use the fine adjustments knob after placing the brake.
# Pivot the micro camera to view alignments on both the x and y axes (again, the fine adjustment knobs are used here).
# If your tip is having a hard time keeping the component secure, try a bigger one.
# Be sure to use a smaller nozzle than the component you are trying to place! Failure to do this results in sucking up the component into the nozzle which can clog it and prevent the vacuum from being effectively used.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The Pick and Place has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure and how often it should occur.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after use. Clean solder off of nozzle and clean table of loose components.
|Student
|-
|Nozzle Change
|Only when a component has been sucked up into the nozzle.
|Student and Ace
|}

PCB Printer

2025-01-17T17:12:12Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Voltera
|Has model=V-One
|Has serial number=V1-05-0129-120 / V1-04-0183-120
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|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File:PCB_printer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Voltera Icon
|Has iconwname=File:PCB_printer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:voltera-vone.png
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|Has group=Circuit Board Design
|Has ace=Evan Hatch;ehatch21@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__
==Description==

The PCB Printer (Voltera V-One) brings quick turn PCBs to your desktop. Import your Gerber file into the Voltera software, press print, and the V-One will bring your board to life. Use the drilling, solder paste dispensing, and reflow features to mount components onto your printed board, or mount components on a pre-fabricated board with ease.

This is a simple example of what the PCB Printer can do. Currently the PCB lab has a different baking process using a different oven, so we will be curing the boards using a different method than shown in the video.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6nEgN4THRE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

The following conductive inks and pastes are stocked in the PCB Lab. Each material requires a special heating program setting. See each individual material below for the proper reflow oven setting.

Inks are also identified by a lot name and expiration date. If properly installed, the expiration date should be viewable through the window in the dispenser, but the lot name will not. Refer to the label on the back of the dispenser for the lot name. When selecting the ink you're using in the Voltera software, it will identify the ink by type, lot name, and expiration date. Make sure you select the correct one.

[[File:voltera_aqueous.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Conductive Ink'''

- Use to lay conductive traces on substrates (Green is "V1 Ink" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_furious.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste'''

- Use only on boards that utilize Voltera's ink traces, such as the ink above. (Orange is "V1 Paste" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_armored.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste Sn63 Pb37'''

- Use only premade boards, such as ones from [https://jlcpcb.com/ JLCPCB] (Blue is "Sn63Pb37" on Reflow Oven)

 
 

<gallery>
File:Voltera substrates.jpg|Substrates
File:Vone probe.jpg|Probe
File:Dispenser and Sheath.jpg|Dispenser and Sheath
File:Voltera conductive ink.png|Conductive Ink Cartridge
File:Voltera 225 nozzle.jpg|Nozzle - 225 Micron
File:Voltera burnish.jpg|Burnishing Pads
</gallery>

[[Media:Voltera V-One Manual English.pdf|Voltera User Manual]]

[https://support.voltera.io/circuit-design-guidelines Circuit Design Guidelines]

[https://support.voltera.io/altium#main Altium Gerber Export Guide]

[https://www.voltera.io/ Voltera Home Page]

[https://support.voltera.io/hc/en-us/sections/115001325748-User-Guides User Guides]

==Before you Print==

Here are a few things to check before exporting your gerber files and fabricating your PCB. [[File:Voltera-drillbits.png|thumb|300x300px|right|Available drill bit sizes]]

#Verify via hole sizes.
##Based on the size of what needs to go in the via, select a rivet with the proper internal diameter from the table on the [[Through Hole Press]] page.
##Once you've selected the rivet size, take the outer diameter of the rivet from the table and add 0.1mm.
##Check this outer diameter against the available drill sizes for the Voltera (see the image to the right). Round up to the nearest drill size and use that for the hole size in Altium.
#Verify annular ring size
##Your annular rings (via diameter) should be at least as large as the head diameter of the rivets you plan to use, otherwise they might not make good contact.
#Check that your design follows the circuit design guidelines at the link above

==Training==
====Operation====

The PCB Printer is a fantastic tool for prototyping PCBs. After uploading Gerber files from Altium or a related software, the Voltera will be able to print traces and pads. The Voltera has the ability to bake traces and reflow components on its heated bed, but you will need to use the reflow oven to bake boards. The PCB Lab uses the reflow oven for baking due to the amount of people it needs to accommodate, so users will only be using the PCB Printer to print traces and pads. The Conductive Ink (used for Traces) is indicated by a green dot on the dispenser, the Voltera Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by an orange dot on the dispenser, and the Manufactured Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by a blue dot on the dispenser.

Before beginning with your PCB, it is imperative that it is completely flat, meaning no components are installed, as it will result in breaking the nozzle of the dispenser, or it will be unable to calibrate correctly.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the PCB Printer, the student will design a PCB in Altium or related software, print the traces/pads, and transition to the Reflow Oven. As a part of the process, the student will also perform correct set up and shut down procedures, all of which can be found in the General Procedure below.

====General Procedure====

Using the Voltera to create single-sided boards with NO vias or holes.[[File:voltera_blinky_500.jpg|300x300px|thumb|right|Training board - The Blinky 500]]

#'''Drilling'''
##'''This board in particular does not have any holes, so this entire step can be skipped for this procedure''', however, these are the steps to take if you need to drill holes in the future.
##After opening the Voltera software, select Drill. This option is chosen only if you want to add holes to an existing board.
##For Drilling, you can either choose the Simple or Aligned route. Choose Simple if your board has no existing features, and choose Aligned if your board has some existing features. Lets go through the process for both.
##Drilling for a Simple Board
###Alrighty, you've chosen Simple, so this procedure assumes there is absolutely nothing fabricated on the board. Not gonna lie, this procedure is a little more sketchy than aligned simply because you literally eyeball your board's outline. The no eloquent calibration system. That's just how it works.
###Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
###Then it will ask you to move your boards location on the plate so the Voltera knows where it needs to drill. This is the sketchy part. It outlines a square, and you make a judgement based on what it thinks. If it outlines too low, move your circuit up further on the plate to compensate for it. If it outlines too far to the left, move your circuit to the right on the plate to compensate for it. Continue this process until it looks "good enough."
###Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication... [[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
###Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient. The transition between printing and drilling is done with the same alignment.
###Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
###The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
###And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
##Drilling for an Aligned Board
###Awesome, you've chosen Aligned, so this procedure assumes you have some preexisting holes and the like on the board.
###Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
###Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication...[[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
###Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
###Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green. Anything that is highlighted in Green will be executed.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
###The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
###And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
#'''Ready the Ink'''
##The ink is most usable when it reaches room temperature, so we have to let it warm up in advance.
##Grab the correct conductive ink from the fridge, and let it warm up to room temperature, about 15-30 minutes. It is labeled with a '''green''' sticker.
#'''Software Setup'''
##Download the files for this project [[Media:Pcb printer level 1.zip|here]].
##Power on the Voltera.
##Open the Voltera Windows application.
##Select "Print" and then "Simple." "Print" indicates that we want to print traces, and "Simple" indicates that the board is not pre-fabricated. If we had a pre-fabricated board, we would instead select "Aligned" so we can align the holes.
##Next we need to add the proper conductive ink, which is the same conductive ink you acquired in step 1.2.
##Load the ink file from the project files. This is the Top Layer Gerber file.
#'''Clamping the Substrate'''
##Acquire a 1.5" by 2" blank board. They are located in the one of the drawers.
##Slide the board underneath the clamps on the Voltera, push the clamps towards each other, and finger-tighten the thumb screws. You should not be able to move the board once you clamp them down. [[File:Voltera clamping.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Mounting the Probe'''
##Pull the probe from one of the drawers. The probe should have a large metal tip, do not confuse it with the dispenser. [[File:Voltera drawer.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Remove the cap and place it near the Voltera.
##Mount the probe onto the magnetic gantry. It should snap into place and the contacts should align. [[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Positioning and Probing'''
##Click "Outline." This will show you where the Voltera thinks the board is. It will move the probe around the printer surface and determine how close the dispenser will need to be to the board.
##Repeat step one until the outline is centered with the board. Click and drag the circuit in the Voltera application to move the outline.
##'''You MUST ensure the outline does not collide with the clamps AND does not exceed the dimensions of the board!''' Do NOT proceed until this is checked!
##In the next step, Click "Probe" and wait for the Voltera to finish its measurements. [[File:Voltera probing.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Remove the probe, replace the cap, place the probe back in the drawer, and proceed. 
#'''Priming the Conductor'''
##Ensure 15 minutes have passed before beginning the next step. This helps the ink flow easier, so the dispenser should not be cold to the touch.
##'''Read carefully.''' The Voltera application explains this step well. Follow the on-screen instructions before moving on to the next step. Some tips/tricks/warnings: - '''Nozzles are fragile!''' You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Treat this process with care! - Hold the dispenser over a paper towel to prevent ink from getting everywhere. - If you need to wipe the nozzle, do so '''gently''' and '''use a cotton swab found in the drawers.''' - Ink should not be flowing quickly out of the dispenser when you finish priming, but '''a very small amount''' of flow is OK. [[File:Voltera priming.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Mount the dispenser. [[File:Voltera mount_conductive.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Calibration'''
##Click "Advanced." Start with the '''Z at 0.10 mm''' and the '''E at 0 um'''. Adjust the Voltera to these values, as it is a safe distance for the dispenser.
##Click "Calibrate." The Voltera will lay down a test print. Pay close attention to the amount and consistency of the ink.[[File:Voltera calibrate.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##The example below has slightly too much ink. Notice how a portion of the horizontal lines touch and some parts of the ink glob up. [[File:Voltera calibrate_bad.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##In this case, to make an adjustment, the ink height was set to a '''Z of 0.09 mm''' and the flow was set to an '''E of -10 um.''' This dispenses less ink than before.
##'''You may need to do the same or make different adjustments. Whatever you do, do NOT run the nozzle into the board! The nozzle will break!'''
##If an adjustment was made, '''wipe the board clean with a paper towel (shown below) and/or clean it with isopropyl alcohol''' and repeat the calibration. [[File:Voltera calibrate_wipe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##The example below is a more acceptable test print. Strive for this consistency. If your board looks right, proceed. [[File:Voltera calibrate_better.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Click "Next," and wipe the board clean a final time, as you are now preparing to print your whole circuit. 
#'''Top Layer Print'''
##'''The Voltera will print what is selected in Green.''' Below is an example of a portion of the board selected. Ensure the portion you want to print is selected (in this case, select everything.) '''Remember that blue lines will not be printed.''' [[File:voltera_selection.PNG|300x300px|none]]
##Click "Start." Let the Voltera finish its process. If a portion of the print fails or is incorrect, you can stop mid-print, or wait until it is finished and redo that selection. Also shown below is an example of a portion of ink that globbed up. The portion was wiped and can be reprinted. [[File:voltera_printing.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_blob.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_redo.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
##Remove the conductive ink, put the cap back on, '''and return the conductive ink to the fridge!'''
##When you reach the instruction titled "Flip Board," you are done. We want to bake these traces on the Reflow Oven before we do anything else to the board.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera, and remember that the traces are still wet, so do not smear them around.
##Consult the Reflow Oven wiki and complete that process. Bake the board soon after printing to ensure best results.
#'''Preparing for Solder Paste'''
##You should now have a PCB with traces baked on it! Time to make those pads for placing components.
##Take a burnishing pad from one of the drawers. Rub the substrate with the pad until the traces have a shine to them, rather than a dull appearance. This cleans the surface of the traces and makes them look super shiny. '''AND IT IS CRITICALLY IMPORTANT!!! IF YOU DO NOT DO THIS, THE SOLDER HAS A VERY DIFFICULT TIME STICKING!!!!'''
##Replace the burnishing pad back into the drawer.
#'''Aligning the Paste'''
##This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to print solder. The user gives it two locations where the pads should go, and the Voltera can use the Gerber files to determine where else pads need to go.
##At this time, retrieve the solder paste from the fridge and set it out to warm. The correct paste is labeled with an '''orange''' sticker.
##Take the board back to the Voltera and clamp the board into place. Again, you should not be able to move the board after it is clamped.
##Open the Voltera application and choose "Solder," and choose the proper paste. In this case you want the '''orange'''-labeled paste.
##Clean the calibration switches, mount the probe, and proceed.
##Click 'Move to feature." This will move the probe to a pre-determined feature and should not be aligned properly on the first go. It is your job to align it correctly.
##First, use the arrow keys to roughly align the feature with the probe. This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to put the pads.
##Next, click "Lower," and use the arrow keys to fine-tune the alignment. Your precision in these steps is key to getting solder paste in the correct places.
##Click "Measure" when the alignment is correct. The board will be probed and the head will move to a second feature.
##Repeat steps 8 and 9.
##Click "Measure." The alignment is now finished.
##You can confirm the alignment by clicking various features and seeing if the head moves to the right position. If something is off, you can go back and realign if necessary. Proceed until you need to measure the height of the board.
##Click "Probe." This will measure the height of the board and determine how far away the dispenser needs to be from the board.
##Once it finishes probing, remove the probe and replace it in the drawer.
#'''Priming the Paste'''
##Refer to the priming directions in step 8 before mounting the dispenser.
##Once it is primed, mount it and proceed.
##Click "Dispense." The paste will dispense onto all of the selected pads.
##Strive for good coverage of paste, preferably covering most of the pad, if not all of it.
##Remove the dispenser. Twist the knob clockwise to back off the paste. '''Put it back in the fridge,''' and quit the Voltera app.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that you are handling a board with wet paste. Clean up!
#'''Cleaning up'''
##Clean any leftover paste or ink from the calibration switches by rubbing them with a dry cue tip before it dries.
##If any ink or paste remains elsewhere on the machine, use a cue tip or kimwipe with a little bit of isopropyl alcohol to clean it. Be careful not to drench the machine in isopropyl, as it could let gunk get into the machine and jam things up. [[File:Voltera cleaning.jpg|border|none|300x300px|Cleaning the calibration switches]]

You are now done with the PCB Printer! Refer to the Pick and Place as well as the Reflow Oven wikis for the remainder of the process.

==Debugging==
# First - Burnish the board very well. In order for the solder to adhere to the print traces, they need to be burnished.
# Fixing unconnected traces - You can take the syringe of ink and manually draw new traces or touch up existing traces. Then, using the [[Rework_Station]] on max temperature, you can heat up the trace and get it to melt/adhere. This could take a few minutes, but it can be more effective than restarting or heading to the oven.

==Safety==

#When the PCB Printer is moving and doing its thing, just let it be. Interfering will result in breaking equipment and possibly hurting yourself, especially with the drill. Voltera gives excellent advice/steps for their PCB fabrication process, be sure to follow them.
#If you feel like you do not know what you are doing, ask someone for help. You could damage both the equipment and possibly hurt yourself. Do not hesitate to ask or confirm at any point during the process.

==Certification==
Complete the PCB Lab - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/GH36RT Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==

#Drilling
##If your holes seem to be all out of wack, be sure to confirm the following: you should be using the vacuum to suck up any debris that comes from drilling your board while it is drilling. The pieces can interfere with your part.
##If they seem to be drilling in the wrong places, then it probably isn't aligned correctly. Go back in the process and start over.
#Calibration/Alignment
##During the probing process, be sure that your board is completely flat and that the clamps cover a minimal amount of the board while keeping it secure. If the probing hits the claps or runs off the board, the calibration is no good. Go back to the initial stages where you align holes/indicate where to print traces.
##When holes are available during the Alignment stage, always use them to align your board. NEVER use pads or traces unless you absolutely have to. Holes are much easier to align with.
#Printing Traces/Solder
##Be sure that the dispenser has been warming up to room temperature for at least 15 minutes so the ink can flow smoothly.
##If the ink does not seem come come out even when you're priming the dispenser, chances are that it is clogged. Remove the tip, notify a PCB Lab worker, and install a new tip (ask a worker if you don't know how).

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
The PCB Printer has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after each use, including ink/solder residue and drilled material
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Refrigerating the Dispensers
|Whenever they are not in use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Replacing Sacrificial Layer
|When the existing layer is worn through and can potential damage the heating bed
|Ace
|
|-
|Replacing Nozzle
|When the nozzle is clogged
|Student or Ace
|
|-
|Replacing ink/solder paste syringe
|Whenever out of ink/solder paste
|Ace
| 01/27/2022 by MM
|-
|Labeling dispenser with lot name
|Whenever ink/solder paste is replaced
|Ace
| 01/27/2022 by MM
|-
|Cleaning calibration switch linear hardware (Disassemble, clean, oil)
|Once yearly, or as required.
|Ace and Technician
| 01/27/2022 by MM
|}

Soldering Irons

2025-01-17T17:11:06Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is located in facility=The Hub
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Weller
|Has model=WES51
|Has serial number=
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has function=Soldering Iron
|Has icon=File:soldering_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Soldering Iron
|Has image=File:soldering.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Soldering a component
|Has description=Soldering is a process in which two or more items (usually metal) are joined together by melting and putting a filler metal (solder) into the joint
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1242
|Has group=Circuit Board Design
|Has ace=Evan Hatch;ehatch21@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

'''Soldering''' is a process in which two or more items (usually metal) are joined together by melting and putting a filler metal (solder) into the joint, the filler metal having a lower melting point than the adjoining metal. Soldering differs from welding in that soldering does not involve melting the work pieces. In brazing, the filler metal melts at a higher temperature, but the work piece metal does not melt. In the past, nearly all solders contained lead, but environmental and health concerns have increasingly dictated use of lead-free solder for electronics and plumbing purposes.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
<gallery>
File:SolderingTips.jpg|Soldering Tip
File:Solder.jpg|Solder
File:Flux.jpg|Flux
</gallery>

[[Media:WES51_OI_PL.pdf|Soldering Iron User Manual]]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Soldering Iron is an amazing tool that allows us to construct circuits with sturdy connections between components. The detailed steps to do this can be found in videos on the Description section.

====Demonstration====

Before using a Soldering Station, students will need to read some documentation, watch some videos, and pass a quiz on Canvas. Upon completion, students will be given the following PCB and components to assemble the circuit below. Upon completion, they will have the PCB Lab volunteers assess their work and confirm operation. The deliverable will include a video of the working device and a crisp "Thumbs Up" from the PCB Lab Volunteer to assure that the student successfully completed the task.

<gallery>
File:blinkypcb.jpg|[[Media:Blinky.zip|PCB]]
File:ne555.png|[https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/texas-instruments/NE555P/296-1411-5-ND/277057 555 timer]
File:res1k.jpg|[https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/stackpole-electronics-inc/CF14JT1K00/CF14JT1K00CT-ND/1830350 1 KΩ resistor]
File:res470k.jpg|[https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/stackpole-electronics-inc/CF14JT470K/CF14JT470KCT-ND/1830415 470 KΩ resistor]
File:cap1uF.jpg|[https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/UVP1H010MDD1TD/493-12697-1-ND/4328314?utm_campaign=buynow&WT.z_cid=ref_octopart_dkc_buynow&utm_medium=aggregator&curr=usd&site=us&utm_source=octopart 1 μF capacitor]
File:red_led.jpg|[https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/lite-on-inc/LTL-4223/160-1127-ND/200395 red LED]
File:battcon.jpg|[https://www.xump.com/science/9V-Battery-Snap-Connector-Leads.cfm?SID=12&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI04mUoZaF2QIVAm5-Ch0pDgDrEAQYAiABEgKI1_D_BwE 9V Battery connector]
File:Blinking LED Circuit.gif|Completed PCB
</gallery>

[[File:Soldering_course_circuit.jpg|none|thumb|583x583px]]

====General Procedure====
# First things first, you need to learn how to use the soldering irons! Soldering is not difficult, but understanding some basic concepts will go a long way toward a successful experience. As part of your training, you will need to read some documentation and watch some videos.
# After scouring the web for examples of soldering training, we really liked the lessons captured in the [https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837 PACE] series, despite the fact that they were filmed in the 80's. These videos are well produced (for something possibly older than your parents) and have a lot of good information. The quizzable information is in the very first, fifth, and sixth videos, but the other videos have great examples of good and bad soldering joints. Another more modern video from [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZwU9SqO0udU Beauty and the Bolt] is also insightful. This video is a little more modern, and a good resource, but not as technically interesting. It talks a bit about desoldering as well as soldering wires together and how to use heat shrink and electrical tape. A more modern series is available from [https://www.howcast.com/guides/930-how-to-solder Howcast]. It wouldn't hurt at all to watch this series, but we will just focus on a couple for the quiz. Finally, there is an official training video from the [[Maker Hub]] that is tailored to our specific space and equipment. This video will give you the information you need to perform the live solder demonstration required for your soldering certification.
# This nostalgic set of [https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837 videos] from PACE are quite old, but surprisingly still quite relevant. The style makes you think that you will be getting ready to watch an old Disney cartoon - you aren't. Don't get disappointed.
# '''Basic Soldering Lesson 1:''' This is by far the longest of the videos at (20:44), but also packed with the most pertinent information. It provides great background on solder, flux, wetting, and then mechanics of the iron and the joint. We do not have the student handbook that is mentioned. We suspect that you can manage without that. Here are some key ideas that you should watch for:
## What is solder? What temperatures do the different solders melt at?
## What is flux?
## What is wetting?
## What are the different aspects of a soldering iron?{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIT4ra6Mo0s}}
# '''Basic Soldering Lesson 2-5:''' These videos are worth watching, but they are not essential for this training.
## [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mrhg5A1a1mU&index=2&list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837&t=0s Basic Soldering Lesson 2] - "Soldering To PCB Terminals" (6:50)
## [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GLeCt_u3U8&index=3&list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837&t=0s Basic Soldering Lesson 3] - "Cup Terminals" (4:19)
## [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hvTiql-ED4A&index=4&list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837&t=0s Basic Soldering Lesson 4] - "Bifurcated Terminals" (2:45)
## [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sN3V8hMiUb4&index=5&list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837&t=0s Basic Soldering Lesson 5] - "Hook and Pierced Terminals" (1:19)
# '''Basic Soldering Lesson 6:''' Good explanation of a "semi-clenched" method for soldering an axial-lead component. This technique allows the component to be held in place for soldering without any extra tape or glue (or a potentially burnt finger).{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AY5M-lGxvzo}}
# '''Basic Soldering Lesson 7:''' Applying the "clenching" idea to an IC. Typically, we will not use this technique, but will instead hold the part and "tack" these same leads with solder - just to hold it. The rest of the video has great examples of IC's being soldered.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgcPxdnjwt4}}
# '''Basic Soldering Lesson 8-9:''' We don't normally see too many of these any more, but again, nice examples of good joints that are similar to components we still use. Rather than flatpack or planar components, we generally use "surface-mount" now. But, the soldering part is still useful to watch. The techniques are similar. Our PCB's will generally come "pre-tined" and the component leads are already bent, but the rest of the soldering is the same.
## [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTv3gK9tAKA&index=8&list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837&t=0s Basic Soldering Lesson 8] - "Integrated Circuits" (1:16)
## [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nq5ngauITsw&index=9&list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837&t=0s Basic Soldering Lesson 9] - "Integrated Circuits: The Flatpack & Other Planar-mounted Components" (6:20)
# '''Howcast How to Solder:''' This set of [https://www.howcast.com/guides/930-how-to-solder videos] from Howcast is worth watching, but we will only highlight a couple of them here that talk about removing solder.
# '''How to Remove Solder'''{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-lnRf2biz50}}
# '''How to Remove Through-Hole Components'''{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zjQf0ajBYmM}}
# '''Maker Hub Video:''' This video contains specific information for soldering in the Maker Hub as well as a basic overview of what will be expected in your live demonstration.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v98_f7JFdo}}
#
# Acquire a soldering station. For this procedure, this particular station will be referenced, the Weller WES51.[[File:...solderingiron.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
# You can power it on using the switch on the left and control the temperature in °F using the temperature knob on the right. 650-750 °F is a good temperature range to keep it at. When the light is solid green, the iron is not heated up yet. When it is heated to the temperature you set on the temperature knob, it will start blinking green.
# Before you begin using the soldering iron, wet the sponge! Take it to a sink and drench that boi. This is used to clean the soldering iron continually during use. If you don't make it wet, it will burn up the sponge and smell/look gross, and it won't clean the soldering iron.
# Now you're ready to use the soldering iron! Refer to the videos in times of doubt.
# Don't forget to complete that video checking off your board!

==Safety==
# Always wear safety glasses when you are cutting wires or anything else at the electronics workstation. If other people are nearby, ask them to wear safety glasses or step away briefly.
# Angle your wire cuts down into the table or cover them with your free hand to block the projectile.
# Soldering irons can get up to 1000 °F. Do not touch the tip of the soldering iron; it is extremely hot. If you get burned, run cold water over the burned area for several minutes to reduce inflammation and the potential for blistering.
# Wires and components can also become extremely hot from soldering. Use the available helping hands, and allow the wires/components to cool before touching.
# Always return the soldering iron to its stand when not in use. Never lay it directly on the workbench.
# Ensure you have adequate ventilation when soldering. Use the available fume extractors.
# Turn off the soldering iron when it is not in use.
# If you start an electrical fire, use a fire extinguisher to put it out. NEVER use water to put out an electrical fire.
# Keep liquids away from the electronics workstation.

==Certification==

For the soldering irons in The Hub, complete The Hub - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}.

For the soldering irons in the PCB Lab, complete the PCB Lab - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}.

The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/GH36RT Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
There are two things in particular that could keep you from successfully soldering: an untinned tip and a loose tip. If the tip is not shiny silver, then place a little solder on the tip and wipe it on the sponge. Some soldering irons allow there tips to be replaced for the sake of having different shapes. If the iron is not heating up and you are using this type of iron, it is possible that the tip is not inserted into the iron fully. To fix this, grab some pliers (so you don't burn your hands), grip the shaft and push it in fully. After you have finished soldering, you might check the electrical continuity of your solder joint with a [[Electronics Workstation | DVM]].

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The maintenance for the soldering iron generally consists of keeping the soldering station cleaned, stocked, and the iron tinned.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General Cleaning
|After each use
|Student
|-
|Tin Soldering Iron
|As needed
|Student
|-
|Stock solder, solder wick, sponge
|As needed
|Ace
|}__TOC__

Oscillating Spindle Sander

2024-11-15T19:18:32Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Grizzly Industrial
|Has model=G1071
|Has serial number=1709690
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File:Spindle Sander.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Spindle Sander.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Oscillating Spindle Sander
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1204
|Has ace=Needed;makerhub@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Safety First==
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]
There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using a spindle sander.
* Never make contact with the rotating spindle. The sand paper is very aggressive and could cause serious injury.
* The spindle is rotating at a high rate of speed and can grab your work piece.
* Hold onto material firmly and keep it against the table. This will help prevent the material from getting pulled out of your hands. If material catches on the spindle it can starts rotating quickly and create a dangerous situation.

==Description==

The Grizzly vertical spindle sander is for sanding curved surfaces square to the table. The machine contains a 1HP motor and has 10 different sanding spindles ranging from 1/4" to 4" in diameter. The cast iron table has an opening that provides clearance for the spindles to oscillate up and down. The oscillating action will give you a smooth sanded surface at 1725 RPM. The 4" dust port connects easily to any dust collector.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Exi3raTmaNQ}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

*'''Table Insert-''' A metal plate that covers the opening between the spindle and table.
*'''Sanding Spindle-''' A metal shaft with a rubber section that supports a sand paper sleeve. These come in a variety of sizes.

[[Media:G1071_m.pdf|Oscillating Spindle Sander User Manual]]

==Training==
====Operation====

The spindle sander is normally used for sanding inside corners. There are various spindles that range from 1/4" to 4". If you need to change out the spindle ask the supervisor on shift for assistance. Make sure the spindle taper is clean before installing a new spindle. Only hand tighten the spindles during installation so they can be removed. The spindle also oscillates up and down as it rotates to produce a smooth finish. The machine has an on/off power switch located on the control panel. Make sure the material you are cutting is free of all foreign objects. Do not sand materials that may have nails or screws as they will damage the drum and may cause injury to you. Also, if the material contains a loose knot it can break free and create a safety hazard. Do not sand plastics, rubber, metal or any other materials other than natural woods.

If your material looks good, the next step is to make sure you have the appropriate spindle installed. You will also want to hook up the adjacent dust collector to the rear of the machine, make sure it is plugged in, and turned on. The dust collector must be used with the sander to help keep the dust out of the air. As you sand, it is imperative that you keep the material firmly against the table and gently push the material into the spindle to make the surface perpendicular to the table. Hold firmly onto the material as it could get pulled out of your hands. If you are sanding the inside of a circle and the material pulls out of your hands do not attempt to grab the spinning part. If you can safely reach the power switch shut off the machine and wait for the part to stop moving.

After the sander is set up you are ready to work. Turn on the sander and gently push the material into the drum, making sure to keep your hands a safe distance from the spindle. Do not force material into the drum.

====Demonstration====

Demonstrate you can safely setup the spindle sander and create a smooth radius. Remember to use the appropriate drum size. You will need to draw a guide line to follow.

====General Procedure====

'''Inside Radius'''

1. Ensure that the material you are sanding is at least 4" long and no nails or foreign objects.

2. Sketch a radius onto your material using pencil.

3. Make sure the spindle in the machine fits the radius you have drawn. If the spindle needs to be changed ask the supervisor on shift for help.

4. Connect the dust collector to the port on the back of the machine.

5. Turn on the power switch on the front of the sander and the dust collector. Make sure nothing is making contact with sanding drum.

7. Gently feed the material into the sanding drum while firmly holding onto the material. Keep your fingers away from the spinning drum.

8. Carefully remove material as you keep an eye on the reference line. Slowly remove material up to the line.

9. When all of the material has been removed take the work piece off the table.

10. Turn off the power switch for the sander and the dust collector.

11. Make sure to reset the space.

==Certification==
Complete the Wood Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/GH36RT Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

*As sanding sleeves are used they will "gum up" with saw dust. If not removed, the saw dust will harden and reduce the life of the sanding sleeve. As needed, a abrasive cleaner should be used on the sleeves.
*The taper end of the sanding spindles should be lubricated with a light oil.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Serger

2024-11-15T17:34:30Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=The Hub
|Is used in domain=Cloth
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Janome
|Has model=MyLock 634D
|Has serial number=6E1013527
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File:Serger_icon.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Serger_image3.png
|Has imagedesc=Janome Mylock 634D
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1268
|Has ace=Needed;Justinj@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Safety First==
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]
Here are some safety instructions for the {{PAGENAME}}. Remember... SAFETY FIRST!!!
*'''Sharp Hazard''' – needles are very sharp and can pierce your skin. Turn off the serger when inserting/removing needles to avoid bumping the foot pedal and moving the needle assembly. Never place your fingers directly underneath the needle.
*'''Crush Hazard''' – be aware of all moving parts and keep your fingers away from any pinch points.
*'''Entanglement''' – ensure that loose clothing, long hair, or any other dangling/loose items do not become entangled in the machine. Hair that extends below the collar should be tied up.
*'''Eye Injury''' – needles can break if they hit a solid object while sewing. The broken tip can fly off and become lodged in your eye. Wear safety glasses when using the serger.
*Do not sew over pins. This can break or bend the needle.
*Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
*Do not push or pull fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
*Ensure the needle you are using is undamaged.
*Make sure the needle is installed correctly.
*Verify that you are using the correct presser foot. When changing out the presser foot, manually check that the needle’s travel will clear the foot before using the foot pedal.
*Do not run thick fabrics or many layers of fabric through the serger. Use the industrial sewing machine for these applications.
*When you finish using the serger, disconnect the power cable from both the machine and the wall outlet/power strip. Coil the power cable neatly on the table.

==Description==
Sergers preform a type of stitch known as overlock stitching. An overlock stitch is a type of stitching that overcasts the edge of one or more pieces of fabric. Sergers also have the ability to trim the excess seam allowance as it is fed through the machine. This type of stitching is useful for edging, hemming, and seaming. This process will create a clean edge of your fabric that will not fray.

The Janome MyLock 634D features 2 needles and a choice of 2, 3, or 4 thread overlocking stitching. The color-coded thread guiding makes threading simple and easy to follow. The MyLock 634D allows the user to easily switch from overlock stitching to rolled hemming without needing to change to needle plate. Some of the key features of the MyLock 634D are a tension release lever, easily accessible lower looper guides, changeable thread guide, easily retractable upper knife, adjustable foot pressure, and more.

==Documentation==

[[Media:Inst-book-634d.pdf|Serger User Manual]]

* [https://www.janome.com/machines/sergers/mylock-634d/ Product Home Page]

====Terminology====

* Needle -
* Spool -

==Training==
====Operation====

All information on this specific machine can be found in the [https://www.janome.com/siteassets/support/manuals/sergers/inst-book-634d.pdf User Manual]

A simple intro to serging:
 
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQww9QqVwOw}}
 

====Demonstration====

Demonstrate you can safely setup the serger. You will then proceed to edge a piece of scrap material.

====General Procedure====

Insert general procedure here.

==Certification==
Complete The Hub - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/GH36RT Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
You may look in the user manual for troubleshooting instructions. But, if you are not confident in what you are doing, ask a supervisor for assistance.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Open the covers and use a lint brush to clean out the lint. Do not try to blow the lint away; you will drive it deeper into the machine.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Lubricate mechanisms
|As Needed
|Technician
|-
|Clean machine
|When Done
|User
|-
|Change the needle
|As Needed
|User
|}

Sewing Machine

2024-11-15T17:32:35Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=The Hub
|Is used in domain=Cloth
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has model=3160QDC
|Has make=Janome
|Has serial number=8H2036666 / 8H2036653
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File:Sewing_machine.png
|Has icondesc=Sewing Machine
|Has iconwname=File:Sewing_machine_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:Sewing_machine_image.png
|Has imagedesc=Janome 3160 QDC
|Has description=(???)
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1264
|Has ace =Brooke Frisk;bfrisk24@georgefox.edu

}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Safety First==
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]
Here are some safety instructions for the {{PAGENAME}}. Remember ... SAFETY FIRST!!!
*'''Sharp Hazard''' – needles are very sharp and can pierce your skin. Turn off the sewing machine when inserting/removing needles to avoid bumping the foot pedal and moving the needle assembly. Never place your fingers directly underneath the needle.
*'''Crush Hazard''' – be aware of all moving parts and keep your fingers away from any pinch points.
*'''Entanglement''' – ensure that loose clothing, long hair, or any other dangling/loose items do not become entangled in the machine. Hair that extends below the collar should be tied up.
*'''Eye Injury''' – needles can break if they hit a solid object while sewing. The broken tip can fly off and become lodged in your eye. Eye protection is recommended when using the sewing machines.
*Do not sew over pins. This can break or bend the needle.
*Ensure the needle you are using is undamaged before you begin sewing.
*Make sure the needle is installed correctly. Well seated with the needle clamp screw tightened.
*Verify that you are using the correct presser foot. When changing out the presser foot, manually check that the needle’s travel will clear the foot by turning the handwheel one full rotation toward--not away from--you before using the foot pedal.
*Do not run thick fabrics or many layers of fabric through a standard sewing machine. Use the industrial sewing machine for these applications.
*When you finish using the sewing machine, disconnect the power cable and the foot pedal from both the machine and the wall outlet/power strip. Coil the power cable and foot pedal cords neatly, and stow on the free arm beneath the dust cover.

==Description==
There are currently four Janome 3160 QDC sewing machines available for use in the Maker Hub. This model features 60 different stitch patterns. It has automatic fabric feeding, one hand needle threader, and easy to follow instructions, making it an ideal machine for first time sewers. Some of its more advanced features include buttons for lock stitch, needle up or down, and automatic thread cutting. It has an extension table that can be attached to make sewing larger projects a breeze.

Two machines are kept in the Tool Room on shelf 10. Accessory feet are also kept in the Tool Room, and may be checked out as needed by qualified students. A reference copy of the manual is in the top drawer of the storage unit in the sewing area. There are phone stands in that same drawer for use while following tutorials or reading the copy of the manual available on this page on a phone or tablet. The extension tables for the two machines in the sewing corner are in the third drawer of the storage unit.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oo_xT1Gfg5M}}

==Documentation==

[[Media:Inst-book-3160qdc-en.pdf|Sewing Machine User Manual]]

* [https://www.janome.com/machines/sewing/3160qdc-b/ Product Home Page]

====Terminology====

* Spool pin - Holder used for thread.
* Bobbin - Cylinder on which is wound thread that comes from beneath the work
* Presser foot - piece of metal that presses the fabric against the feed dogs when sewing.

==Training==
All information on these specific machines can be found in the [https://www.janome.com/siteassets/support/manuals/computer-models/inst-book-49360.pdf User Manual] and on the [https://www.janome.com/machines/sewing/3160qdc Product Home Page]

How to set up the machine. This video shows a similar set up process to our machines, but be sure to compare to the manual.
 
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMTzXsyOVoI}}
 
A quick video on basic stitching techniques:
 
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yMoJWSmZI-U}}
 
YouTube is a great resource for learning new things. If you are new to sewing, try watching a few videos to get a general understanding before jumping into sewing.

For more pro tips on sewing visit this website that explains [https://nancysnotions.com/stitch-length-doesnt-have-to-be-confusing/ stitch length].

====Operation====

Winding the bobbin
* Choose your thread. Make sure you find the end before you put the spool of thread on the spool pin. Use a spool cap to hold it in place. Make sure there is no gap between the cap and the spool of thread. The thread being drawn from the spool when sewing can become tangled in any gap and break.
* Follow the diagram on the machine housing in order to fill a bobbin. Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle that is on the right top of the machine. Slide the bobbin winder shaft over to the right to lock it.
* Hold the thread for couple seconds at the beginning as you press the foot pedal gently and slowly. Once it becomes even or uniform, you can let go of the thread and go faster with the foot pedal.
* Cut the thread once you are done and place the bobbin in the bobbin case. (Before you load the bobbin in the bobbin case, cut off the tail that may be hanging from the hole through which you initially threaded the bobbin.) The drop-in bobbin is covered by a plastic cover that you can remove by gently pulling the hook cover release button. Load the bobbin by following the diagram on the plastic cover. Replace the cover.
Threading the machine
* Draw thread from the thread spool and thread the machine by following the directional numbered arrows on the housing of the machine. Make sure the thread is well-seated between the tension discs at the numbered dial and is through the eye of the take-up lever--part 7 in the manual. At the end, thread the needle.
Changing settings

* When altering the stitch length, stitch width, or choosing a different stitch pattern make certain the needle is in the needle-up position.

====Demonstration====

The demonstration will include several steps. Demonstrate you can safely setup the sewing machine, which includes winding the bobbin, threading the machine, and removing/replacing the needle. Finally, sew a mini pillow.

====General Procedure====
# Wind the bobbin and thread the machine
# Pick two pieces of fabric and place right sides together--the 'pretty' side. Align the raw edges of the two pieces.
# Sew a 1/2 inch to 5/8 inch seam on three sides, using a straight stitch.
# At the beginning and end of each side it's best to shorten the stitch length and stitch off the edge of the fabric. It makes a more durable corner--the bulk can be trimmed out of the corner, too, which makes a cleaner (pointy-er) corner. To change the stitch length: stop sewing; leave the work in place under the presser foot; raise the needle; change the stitch length and resume stitching. Lift the presser foot to remove the work. Break the thread tails on the thread cutter, or clip with scissors.
# Press seams flat, then turn the work right-side out and press. Turn raw edges of the open end to the inside 1/4", and press.
# Stuff your pillow! Sew open side shut by stitching with straight stitch close to pressed edges.
(Note: you can use pins to hold things in place, but you need to remove the pins as you stitch. Never sew over pins. It breaks or bends needles, and can mess up the rotation/timing of the bobbin's oscillations.)

==Certification==
Complete The Hub - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/GH36RT Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
There are many different types of problems you can have while using a sewing machine, but here are a few basic problems.

# The needle thread breaks: Check the threading of the needle as it may not be threaded properly. It is also possible that the needle needs to be changed. Learn this skill from one of the sewing volunteers or aces so that you can perform a needle change when needed.
# The needle breaks: Make sure the needle is installed correctly and is tight. Verify you are using the correct presser foot.
# Machine does not run smoothly: Verify the hook race and bobbin holder are free from lint.
# Clearing a thread jam: Because the rotation of the bobbin in the bobbin case is pretty sloppy, thread jams can happen fairly frequently. Use the screwdriver keys that came with the sewing machines to open the needle plate (a.k.a. the throat plate) and access the bobbin case. Use the lint brush and tweezers to remove any tangled thread you find.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Keep the sewing machine clean and free from lint. Make sure to reset the space when you are done sewing.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Lubricate mechanisms
|Semester
|Tech
|-
|Clean machine interior
|Monthly
|Tech
|-
|Change the needle
|As Needed
|Users
|}

Pick and Place

2024-11-12T18:14:42Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=true
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=LPKF
|Has model=Protoplace S
|Has serial number=0Z2701L006
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File:Pick & place icon.png
|Has icondesc=Pick and Place icon
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Pick_&_place.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Pick and Place Machine
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1294
|Has ace=Isaac Beals;ibeals16@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

Pick & Place (Protoplace S) is a semi-automatic pick & place system for the professional assembly of Surface Mount Technology (SMT) printed circuit board prototypes and small batch projects. It is capable of dispensing solder paste, glues, and adhesives, but we typically use it just for placing minuscule components on PCBs.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=maV2KG8O29A}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
# Micro-Table
## This clamps PCBs as large as 297mm x 420mm (11.8” x 16.5”). Knobs at the front of the micro-table allow for fine adjustments along the X and Y axes, which are ideal for the placement of complex components.
# Manipulator
## The manipulator is what picks & places components. It is also capable of dispensing solder paste, glues, and adhesives with the dispenser attachment, however, we will not use these features. The manipulator can reach everywhere on the micro-table that will be needed for projects, including the turntable. The manipulator uses the vacuum and appropriate needle attachment in order to pick & place components.
# Manipulator Knob
## The knob above the box on the manipulator rotates the nozzle; so it rotates components sucked on the knob.
# Turntable
## The turntable is what houses the components used in the project. The turntable can be controlled using the keyboard and LCD display.
# Micro Camera and Monitor
## The micro camera captures the end of the nozzle so that you can view (on the monitor) an accurate representation of where the component will be placed.
[[File:Pick And Place.png|none|thumb|500x500px]]

[[Media:Lpkf protoplace manual (eng).pdf|Pick and Place User Manual]]

[[Media:ProtoPlace_S_Specifications_'16.pdf|Pick and Place Datasheet]]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Pick and Place organizes and helps place minuscule surface mount components by using a vacuum and a nozzle that is triggered by the amount of pressure applied to the nozzle (pushing down on a component).

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the Pick and Place, the Student will have a PCB Prepared by the PCB Printer and follow the instructions in the General Procedure.

====General Procedure====
# Turn on the machine. The switch is located in the back left (if viewed from the front of the machine).
# Ensure that the correct vacuum tip is attached to the manipulator. If the tip is larger than the parts you are trying to pick up, then you need to change out the tip for something smaller. You can change tips for various sized components during the process.
## '''Do not use nozzles too large or the component will get sucked into the machine and the machine will get damaged.'''
# Place all of the parts needed for the project into their own sections on the turntable.
## It would be a good idea to have a separate section for each component for organization purposes (for yourself and others).
## Use a sticky note or labeling system of some sort for different components like resistor values.
## The turntable can be operated by selecting either Auto or Manual from the place menu, and then selecting Turntable. Press the left and right arrows to rotate clockwise and counter-clockwise.
# Turn on the monitor that will display the output of the micro camera. This will help you view your part while you are placing it on the pads.
# Clamp your board onto the microtable. You should not be able to move your board when it is secured.
# On the LCD, using the keyboard:
## Place -> auto/manual.
## Manual mode will only turn on the vacuum when sufficient pressure is applied to the nozzle (when you press the nozzle onto a component).
## Auto mode will always have the vacuum enabled.
# Let's assume we are in manual mode for the remainder of this procedure (easier because you can't accidentally pick up components). Move the manipulator to the desired component. Grab the component by pushing the nozzle down onto the surface of the component.
## '''Be sure that the component is not upside down!'''
# Move the manipulator and component to the position that the footprint is located (it doesn’t have to be exact yet). Using the keyboard and LCD screen, hit the Brake option on the right of the LCD screen. This locks the manipulator so you cannot move it like you normally do which makes it easy to place your components.
# You can use the fine knobs on the front of the pick and place to make precise movements as well as the camera to assure you are placing it correctly on the pads.
## A higher resolution view can be seen on the monitor that’s output from the micro camera.
# Using the keyboard and LCD screen, hit the Place option. It places the component straight down for you!
# Repeat this process until all components are placed.
# Upon completion, refer to the instructions on the Reflow Oven wiki. The solder has not been solidified yet, so be careful with your board so you do not move components. Remember to select the correct setting: V1 Paste if you are using Voltera's special Ink and Paste, and Sn63Pb37 for prefabricated PCBs.
# '''RESET THE SPACE!''' Remove any notes and clean up any lost components.

==Safety==
There is almost nothing you can do on this device that will hurt you. If you place your hand under the nozzle and then smash down the nozzle, you will hurt yourself. Do not do this for obvious reasons.

However, there are things that can hurt the Pick and Place.
# Be gentle with how you treat the nozzle; press down gently when picking and placing components.
# Be sure to use a smaller nozzle than the component you are trying to place! Failure to do this results in sucking up the component into the nozzle which can clog it and prevent the vacuum from being effectively used.

==Certification==
Complete the PCB Lab - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/GH36RT Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
# There are two monitors above the pick and place machine. You’ll want to have your Altium Schematic on one and the altium PCBDoc opened up so you can follow along as you’re placing and double checking things while you’re going.
# Don’t try to get the component exactly at the location of the pads without the brake. It’s quicker if you get it in the general area and use the fine adjustments knob after placing the brake.
# Pivot the micro camera to view alignments on both the x and y axes (again, the fine adjustment knobs are used here).
# If your tip is having a hard time keeping the component secure, try a bigger one.
# Be sure to use a smaller nozzle than the component you are trying to place! Failure to do this results in sucking up the component into the nozzle which can clog it and prevent the vacuum from being effectively used.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The Pick and Place has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure and how often it should occur.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after use. Clean solder off of nozzle and clean table of loose components.
|Student
|-
|Nozzle Change
|Only when a component has been sucked up into the nozzle.
|Student and Ace
|}

Reflow Oven

2024-11-12T18:14:07Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=LPKF
|Has model=ProtoFlow S N2
|Has serial number=0Z2701N343
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File:reflow_oven_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Reflow Oven Icon
|Has image=File:protoflow.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Protoflow Reflow Oven
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1297
|Has group=Circuit Board Design
|Has ace=Isaac Beals;ibeals16@georgefox.edu
}}
[[File:Reflow oven icon.png|left|140x140px|frameless]]
[[File:....theOven.jpg|thumb|400x400px]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Reflow Oven (ProtoFlow S N2) is LPKF's premiere convection oven, ideal for lead-free reflow soldering, meeting the stringent demands of rapid PCB soldering applications. The Reflow Oven features even heat distribution, easy programming, and many pre-defined temperature profiles. The compact design and efficient power consumption make it one of the most useful components in any rapid PCB prototyping environment. {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zsvn2-WkZLk}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
<gallery>
File:bake_ink_selection.jpg|LCD Dispay
File:bake_go.jpg|Tray
</gallery>

[[Media:LPKF ProtoFlow S, User manual, ENG, v2.11.pdf|Reflow Oven User Manual]]

[[Media:protoflow_datasheet.pdf|Reflow Oven Datasheet]]

[https://www.lpkfusa.com/products/pcb_prototyping/smt_assembling/protoflow_s/ Product Home Page]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Reflow Oven bakes PCBs to harden the traces and pads where components are laid. It's just like your oven at home with a few extra accessories, like preset profiles that adjust the temperature and time based on the ink/paste you put on your board.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the oven, the student will have a PCB prepared by the PCB Printer and follow the instructions in the General Procedure.

====General Procedure====
# Power the Reflow Oven on by pressing the power button on the front.
# Select the respective ink/paste on the LCD Display. Different inks and pastes have different heat cycles, so it is important that you choose the right one. You can scroll through the options using the Up and Down keys. The Left key goes back, and the Right key selects. In this specific instance, V1 Ink is selected. Recall that each dispenser is assigned to a color. Green is V1 Ink, Orange is V1 Paste, and Blue is Sn63Pb37.[[File:bake_ink_selection.jpg|300x300px|none|link=https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/File:Bake_ink_selection.jpg]]
# The oven will warm up. When its ready, select "Enter" to open the tray.
# '''DANGER: The rails could be HOT! Take caution.''' Place the board securely on the rails.[[File:bake_place.jpg|300x300px|none|link=https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/File:Bake_place.jpg]]
# Select "Enter" to close the tray.
# The preheat will take 2 minutes. The baking process takes about 30 minutes for traces and 3 minutes for the paste.
# The tray will automatically open to initiate the cool down phase. At the end of this process, the traces and pads will harden. '''DO NOT remove the board until the oven says all the stages are complete. DANGER: The rails are HOT!'''
# When cool down is complete, remove the board from the oven, and turn off the oven.

==Safety==
# '''Never''' place anything in front of the oven door inside of the yellow striped area. This could result in severe damage to the oven.
# Under no circumstances may the lab be left unattended for more than a brief minute while the oven is running.
# Always follow the instructions on the LCD Display. It is your guide that keeps you safe.
# When the tray opens up after baking a board, be patient and let the board cool down. If you handle it while it is too hot, it can burn you and shift your components (not good).
# Once you are finished using the Reflow Oven, clean the inside and turn it off. '''RESET THE SPACE'''.
# If you do not want to risk being burnt by the rails when you place your board in the oven, open the tray and place your board '''BEFORE''' beginning the baking process.
# If you do get burnt, immediately place the burn under cold running cold water for a while. There is a sink to the right of the oven to help you out. This keeps it from blistering.

==Certification==
Complete the PCB Lab - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/GH36RT Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
There are little to no issues to run into while using the oven. The most common issue is failure to select the correct profile, which results in non-hardened traces and pads. Remember, Green is V1 Ink, Orange is V1 Paste, and blue is SN63Pb37. If this happens, simply bake the board again using the correct profile. In the event that something happens out of the ordinary, follow the table below.

[[File:...ovenTroubleshooting.png|none|thumb]]

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The oven should always be clean. Make sure it is clean before and after use. If something is not working and needs to be fixed, refer to the table above in the Troubleshooting section.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
Refer to the table in the Troubleshooting section for advanced solutions.
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Remove Debris
|Before and after each use
|Student
|}
__TOC__

 <references />

Rework Station

2024-11-12T18:13:28Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Zephyrtronics
|Has model=ZT-2, ZT-3, ZT-1-CLS-DPU, Hakko FR-301, Quick861DW
|Has serial number=
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File:Solder Rework Station.png
|Has icondesc=Rework Station Icon
|Has iconwname=File:image_pending.png
|Has image=File:Rework Station.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The Rework Station
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1297
|Has group=
|Has ace=Isaac Beals;ibeals16@georgefox.edu
}}
[[File:Rework Station.jpg|thumb]]
[[File:Solder Rework Station.png|left|110x110px|frameless]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Rework Station is essential for fixing what you messed up during the fabrication process. Consisting of an Air Bath, Air Pencil, and Air Pick, the Rework Station allows you heat up a specific area of the PCB and make modifications, whether that means adding/removing some solder on the pads, rotating a component, or completely replacing a component. Other tools are available for similar purposes, such as a desoldering gun, and an additional heat gun for larger components.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_yFDpSTfao}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
<gallery>
File:...airBath.jpg|Air Bath (ZT-1-CLS-DPU)
File:...airPencil.jpg|Air Pencil (ZT-2)
File:...airPick.jpg|Air Pick (ZT-3)
File:...desolderingGun.jpg|Desoldering Gun (Hakko FR-301)
File:...heatGun.jpg|Heat Gun (Quick861DW)
</gallery>

[http://www.zeph.com/smdpreheater.htm Zephyrtronics Airbath]

[http://www.zeph.com/pencil.html Zephyrtronics Airpencil]

[http://www.zeph.com/zt3web.htm Zephyrtronics Airpick]

[[Media:Fr301e20180402.pdf|Hakko FR-301 User Manual]]

[[Media:861DW-english--manual.pdf|Quick-861DW User Manual]]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Airbath can heat up to 205 °C, which can be enough to melt the solder on a PCB. Some solder melts at even higher temperatures than this, which can be achieved using the Air Pencil and/or Heat Gun. Essentially, the Air Bath heats up the board and the Air Pencil finishes the job by heating up the part of the board that we want to fix (because we don't want to melt the solder on the parts that are already good to go). This is where the Air Pick and tweezers come in. After heating up the part we want to fix, the tweezers are used to remove a component while the Air Pick uses a vacuum to place a component on the board. If the component is too small, using tweezers to pick up the component is also a good alternative.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the Air Bath, Air Pencil, Air Pick, Desoldering Gun, and Heat Gun, the student will have a PCB prepared and perform tasks with the station as a whole. Using the Air Bath, Air Pencil, and Air Pick, students will remove a SMD and solder it back on. Using the Desoldering Gun, students will remove a soldered through hole component. Using the Heat Gun, students will mount a larger SMD, solder it on, and then remove it.

====General Procedure====

#Fixing/Replacing SMD Components
##Before turning on the Air Bath, clamp the PCB on the black stand, preferably placing it so that the component you want to fix is directly above the air. You should not be able to move the board once it is clamped. Keeping it sturdy helps from accidentally moving the PCB during the reworking process.
##The Air Bath has a power switch on the left, three buttons on the right, and a screen on the right. The switch has 3 positions which allows you to choose Cool, Off, and Warm by pressing it in their respective directions. The button on the right allow you to adjust the temperature in a rather funny way. The middle button has a down arrow while the right button has an up arrow, indicating which button decreases/increases the temperature of the bath. However, you need to hold down the left button while doing so. For instance, to increase the temperature, you would hold the left and right buttons at the same time.[[File:AirBathBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
##Now you will heat up the Air Bath. Hit the Power switch on the front, and set the temperature about 20-30 °C below the solder's melting point. The melting point for your solder can be found using the table below. Voltera's Solder Paste (Orange) melts at lower temperatures than the Sn63Pb37 Solder Paste (Blue). If the Voltera Solder Paste says T4 at the top, heat the Air Bath to 180 °C. If the Voltera Solder Paste says T5 at the top, heat the Air Bath to 150 °C. If you are using the Sn63Pb37 Solder Paste, heat the Air Bath to 150 °C. [[File:...meltingPointTable.png|none|thumb]]
##Once the board is heated, you can use the Air Pencil to heat up a specific component. The pencil blows hot air out the end. When you turn it on, adjust the settings to be 3/4 of the heat capacity and about 1/3 of the air flow. We do this because when the air flow is maximized at full temperature, it does not get hot enough to melt the solder. Too much air flow is bad.
##Hold the tip of the pencil over the SMD you want to solder/desolder, and move it slightly around the leads to allow for more distribution of heat. If it is not heating it up, try turning the heat of the pencil higher. This should allow for your SMD components solder to melt, and you will be able to pick up the component up with a pair of static-safe tweezers or the Air Pick. If you are soldering a part on, make sure to generously apply flux to the pads, and make sure all the solder sticks to the pads after heating.
##If the pencil is not doing a good enough job to heat up the component, then you may graduate to using the bigger heat gun, the Quick861DW. The same theoretical concepts apply, however, one potential downside of this is that it affects a larger area than the pencil. You may unintentionally melt the solder of components that you don't want to melt, so be extra careful my dudes.
##The Air Pick uses a vacuum to pick up and place components. Typically you would use both hands for this; one hand heats up the component with the pencil and the other grabs the component with the pick.
##On the handle of the pick there is a divot that is connected to the vacuum. When you plug the divot with your finger, it will enable it to pick up a component. When you release your finger from the divot, it will let go of the component. There are different tips that you will place on the end of the tip based on the component you want to pick up, each having a different size for varying components.
#Desoldering Through Hole Components
##For desoldering through hole components, you will want to use the Desoldering Gun. It has a hot tip that can fit over a solder joint and utilizes a vacuum when the trigger is pulled. As a result, it melts the solder and sucks it into a cartridge, completely removing the joint.
##Before using the Desoldering Gun, make sure you have the little metal stand for the gun to sit on for safety purposes. Have Solder ready nearby to tin the tip before use, and clean the tip after tinning using the wire mesh.
##On the handle of the gun there is a temperature control wheel that ranges from 1-4 (coolest to hottest). Be sure to set it to the correct temperature using the graphic below. Typically, a through hole component would require you to set the scale to 2.[[File:...SolderingGun.png|none|thumb]]
##To use the Desoldering Gun, briefly put the top over a solder joint (not completely on the PCB or you might damage it), press the trigger to enable the vacuum, and the solder should be sucked away!
##Tin the tip before cooldown, and take note that the cooldown may take a bit of time. Don't burn yourself!

==Safety==
The most important thing about all these machines: THEY GET REALLY HOT!

Be so so careful because these machines can get up to temperatures of potentially 700°F. Always be wary of where you are blowing the hot air with the air guns, so you don’t melt other things. Be wary of how hot your PCB can get, and always put the cooling setting on after you’re finished with the Air Bath before picking your PCB up, because you can burn yourself.

==Certification==
Complete the PCB Lab - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/GH36RT Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==

#Suppose the solder isn't melting. Consult the temperature table in the General Procedure, chances are that you just need to make it hotter, little by little.
#Suppose the Air Pick is not picking up the component. Use the appropriate tip and make sure you are plugging the little divot to enable it to pick up. If these aren't working, resort to using tweezers.
#Suppose the components are getting blown away from the pads you want it to sit on. Well, turn down the air my dude.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Wrap all cords and make them look tidy. Make sure all devices are turned off and returned to their original place. Do not leave tweezers or extra parts laying around, put them back in the accessories drawer.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after every use
|Student
|-
|Tinning tip of Desoldering Gun
|Before and after every use
|Student
|-
|Emptying solder out of desoldering gun reservoir
|As needed
|Student/Ace
|-
|Replacing desoldering gun filter
|As needed
|Ace
|}

PCB Printer

2024-11-12T18:11:14Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Voltera
|Has model=V-One
|Has serial number=V1-05-0129-120 / V1-04-0183-120
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File:PCB_printer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Voltera Icon
|Has iconwname=File:PCB_printer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:voltera-vone.png
|Has imagedesc=The Voltera V-One PCB Printer
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1288
|Has group=Circuit Board Design
|Has ace=Isaac Beals;ibeals16@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__
==Description==

The PCB Printer (Voltera V-One) brings quick turn PCBs to your desktop. Import your Gerber file into the Voltera software, press print, and the V-One will bring your board to life. Use the drilling, solder paste dispensing, and reflow features to mount components onto your printed board, or mount components on a pre-fabricated board with ease.

This is a simple example of what the PCB Printer can do. Currently the PCB lab has a different baking process using a different oven, so we will be curing the boards using a different method than shown in the video.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6nEgN4THRE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

The following conductive inks and pastes are stocked in the PCB Lab. Each material requires a special heating program setting. See each individual material below for the proper reflow oven setting.

Inks are also identified by a lot name and expiration date. If properly installed, the expiration date should be viewable through the window in the dispenser, but the lot name will not. Refer to the label on the back of the dispenser for the lot name. When selecting the ink you're using in the Voltera software, it will identify the ink by type, lot name, and expiration date. Make sure you select the correct one.

[[File:voltera_aqueous.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Conductive Ink'''

- Use to lay conductive traces on substrates (Green is "V1 Ink" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_furious.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste'''

- Use only on boards that utilize Voltera's ink traces, such as the ink above. (Orange is "V1 Paste" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_armored.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste Sn63 Pb37'''

- Use only premade boards, such as ones from [https://jlcpcb.com/ JLCPCB] (Blue is "Sn63Pb37" on Reflow Oven)

 
 

<gallery>
File:Voltera substrates.jpg|Substrates
File:Vone probe.jpg|Probe
File:Dispenser and Sheath.jpg|Dispenser and Sheath
File:Voltera conductive ink.png|Conductive Ink Cartridge
File:Voltera 225 nozzle.jpg|Nozzle - 225 Micron
File:Voltera burnish.jpg|Burnishing Pads
</gallery>

[[Media:Voltera V-One Manual English.pdf|Voltera User Manual]]

[https://support.voltera.io/circuit-design-guidelines Circuit Design Guidelines]

[https://support.voltera.io/altium#main Altium Gerber Export Guide]

[https://www.voltera.io/ Voltera Home Page]

[https://support.voltera.io/hc/en-us/sections/115001325748-User-Guides User Guides]

==Before you Print==

Here are a few things to check before exporting your gerber files and fabricating your PCB. [[File:Voltera-drillbits.png|thumb|300x300px|right|Available drill bit sizes]]

#Verify via hole sizes.
##Based on the size of what needs to go in the via, select a rivet with the proper internal diameter from the table on the [[Through Hole Press]] page.
##Once you've selected the rivet size, take the outer diameter of the rivet from the table and add 0.1mm.
##Check this outer diameter against the available drill sizes for the Voltera (see the image to the right). Round up to the nearest drill size and use that for the hole size in Altium.
#Verify annular ring size
##Your annular rings (via diameter) should be at least as large as the head diameter of the rivets you plan to use, otherwise they might not make good contact.
#Check that your design follows the circuit design guidelines at the link above

==Training==
====Operation====

The PCB Printer is a fantastic tool for prototyping PCBs. After uploading Gerber files from Altium or a related software, the Voltera will be able to print traces and pads. The Voltera has the ability to bake traces and reflow components on its heated bed, but you will need to use the reflow oven to bake boards. The PCB Lab uses the reflow oven for baking due to the amount of people it needs to accommodate, so users will only be using the PCB Printer to print traces and pads. The Conductive Ink (used for Traces) is indicated by a green dot on the dispenser, the Voltera Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by an orange dot on the dispenser, and the Manufactured Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by a blue dot on the dispenser.

Before beginning with your PCB, it is imperative that it is completely flat, meaning no components are installed, as it will result in breaking the nozzle of the dispenser, or it will be unable to calibrate correctly.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the PCB Printer, the student will design a PCB in Altium or related software, print the traces/pads, and transition to the Reflow Oven. As a part of the process, the student will also perform correct set up and shut down procedures, all of which can be found in the General Procedure below.

====General Procedure====

Using the Voltera to create single-sided boards with NO vias or holes.[[File:voltera_blinky_500.jpg|300x300px|thumb|right|Training board - The Blinky 500]]

#'''Drilling'''
##'''This board in particular does not have any holes, so this entire step can be skipped for this procedure''', however, these are the steps to take if you need to drill holes in the future.
##After opening the Voltera software, select Drill. This option is chosen only if you want to add holes to an existing board.
##For Drilling, you can either choose the Simple or Aligned route. Choose Simple if your board has no existing features, and choose Aligned if your board has some existing features. Lets go through the process for both.
##Drilling for a Simple Board
###Alrighty, you've chosen Simple, so this procedure assumes there is absolutely nothing fabricated on the board. Not gonna lie, this procedure is a little more sketchy than aligned simply because you literally eyeball your board's outline. The no eloquent calibration system. That's just how it works.
###Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
###Then it will ask you to move your boards location on the plate so the Voltera knows where it needs to drill. This is the sketchy part. It outlines a square, and you make a judgement based on what it thinks. If it outlines too low, move your circuit up further on the plate to compensate for it. If it outlines too far to the left, move your circuit to the right on the plate to compensate for it. Continue this process until it looks "good enough."
###Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication... [[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
###Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient. The transition between printing and drilling is done with the same alignment.
###Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
###The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
###And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
##Drilling for an Aligned Board
###Awesome, you've chosen Aligned, so this procedure assumes you have some preexisting holes and the like on the board.
###Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
###Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication...[[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
###Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
###Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green. Anything that is highlighted in Green will be executed.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
###The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
###And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
#'''Ready the Ink'''
##The ink is most usable when it reaches room temperature, so we have to let it warm up in advance.
##Grab the correct conductive ink from the fridge, and let it warm up to room temperature, about 15-30 minutes. It is labeled with a '''green''' sticker.
#'''Software Setup'''
##Download the files for this project [[Media:Pcb printer level 1.zip|here]].
##Power on the Voltera.
##Open the Voltera Windows application.
##Select "Print" and then "Simple." "Print" indicates that we want to print traces, and "Simple" indicates that the board is not pre-fabricated. If we had a pre-fabricated board, we would instead select "Aligned" so we can align the holes.
##Next we need to add the proper conductive ink, which is the same conductive ink you acquired in step 1.2.
##Load the ink file from the project files. This is the Top Layer Gerber file.
#'''Clamping the Substrate'''
##Acquire a 1.5" by 2" blank board. They are located in the one of the drawers.
##Slide the board underneath the clamps on the Voltera, push the clamps towards each other, and finger-tighten the thumb screws. You should not be able to move the board once you clamp them down. [[File:Voltera clamping.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Mounting the Probe'''
##Pull the probe from one of the drawers. The probe should have a large metal tip, do not confuse it with the dispenser. [[File:Voltera drawer.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Remove the cap and place it near the Voltera.
##Mount the probe onto the magnetic gantry. It should snap into place and the contacts should align. [[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Positioning and Probing'''
##Click "Outline." This will show you where the Voltera thinks the board is. It will move the probe around the printer surface and determine how close the dispenser will need to be to the board.
##Repeat step one until the outline is centered with the board. Click and drag the circuit in the Voltera application to move the outline.
##'''You MUST ensure the outline does not collide with the clamps AND does not exceed the dimensions of the board!''' Do NOT proceed until this is checked!
##In the next step, Click "Probe" and wait for the Voltera to finish its measurements. [[File:Voltera probing.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Remove the probe, replace the cap, place the probe back in the drawer, and proceed. 
#'''Priming the Conductor'''
##Ensure 15 minutes have passed before beginning the next step. This helps the ink flow easier, so the dispenser should not be cold to the touch.
##'''Read carefully.''' The Voltera application explains this step well. Follow the on-screen instructions before moving on to the next step. Some tips/tricks/warnings: - '''Nozzles are fragile!''' You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Treat this process with care! - Hold the dispenser over a paper towel to prevent ink from getting everywhere. - If you need to wipe the nozzle, do so '''gently''' and '''use a cotton swab found in the drawers.''' - Ink should not be flowing quickly out of the dispenser when you finish priming, but '''a very small amount''' of flow is OK. [[File:Voltera priming.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Mount the dispenser. [[File:Voltera mount_conductive.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Calibration'''
##Click "Advanced." Start with the '''Z at 0.10 mm''' and the '''E at 0 um'''. Adjust the Voltera to these values, as it is a safe distance for the dispenser.
##Click "Calibrate." The Voltera will lay down a test print. Pay close attention to the amount and consistency of the ink.[[File:Voltera calibrate.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##The example below has slightly too much ink. Notice how a portion of the horizontal lines touch and some parts of the ink glob up. [[File:Voltera calibrate_bad.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##In this case, to make an adjustment, the ink height was set to a '''Z of 0.09 mm''' and the flow was set to an '''E of -10 um.''' This dispenses less ink than before.
##'''You may need to do the same or make different adjustments. Whatever you do, do NOT run the nozzle into the board! The nozzle will break!'''
##If an adjustment was made, '''wipe the board clean with a paper towel (shown below) and/or clean it with isopropyl alcohol''' and repeat the calibration. [[File:Voltera calibrate_wipe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##The example below is a more acceptable test print. Strive for this consistency. If your board looks right, proceed. [[File:Voltera calibrate_better.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Click "Next," and wipe the board clean a final time, as you are now preparing to print your whole circuit. 
#'''Top Layer Print'''
##'''The Voltera will print what is selected in Green.''' Below is an example of a portion of the board selected. Ensure the portion you want to print is selected (in this case, select everything.) '''Remember that blue lines will not be printed.''' [[File:voltera_selection.PNG|300x300px|none]]
##Click "Start." Let the Voltera finish its process. If a portion of the print fails or is incorrect, you can stop mid-print, or wait until it is finished and redo that selection. Also shown below is an example of a portion of ink that globbed up. The portion was wiped and can be reprinted. [[File:voltera_printing.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_blob.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_redo.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
##Remove the conductive ink, put the cap back on, '''and return the conductive ink to the fridge!'''
##When you reach the instruction titled "Flip Board," you are done. We want to bake these traces on the Reflow Oven before we do anything else to the board.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera, and remember that the traces are still wet, so do not smear them around.
##Consult the Reflow Oven wiki and complete that process. Bake the board soon after printing to ensure best results.
#'''Preparing for Solder Paste'''
##You should now have a PCB with traces baked on it! Time to make those pads for placing components.
##Take a burnishing pad from one of the drawers. Rub the substrate with the pad until the traces have a shine to them, rather than a dull appearance. This cleans the surface of the traces and makes them look super shiny. '''AND IT IS CRITICALLY IMPORTANT!!! IF YOU DO NOT DO THIS, THE SOLDER HAS A VERY DIFFICULT TIME STICKING!!!!'''
##Replace the burnishing pad back into the drawer.
#'''Aligning the Paste'''
##This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to print solder. The user gives it two locations where the pads should go, and the Voltera can use the Gerber files to determine where else pads need to go.
##At this time, retrieve the solder paste from the fridge and set it out to warm. The correct paste is labeled with an '''orange''' sticker.
##Take the board back to the Voltera and clamp the board into place. Again, you should not be able to move the board after it is clamped.
##Open the Voltera application and choose "Solder," and choose the proper paste. In this case you want the '''orange'''-labeled paste.
##Clean the calibration switches, mount the probe, and proceed.
##Click 'Move to feature." This will move the probe to a pre-determined feature and should not be aligned properly on the first go. It is your job to align it correctly.
##First, use the arrow keys to roughly align the feature with the probe. This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to put the pads.
##Next, click "Lower," and use the arrow keys to fine-tune the alignment. Your precision in these steps is key to getting solder paste in the correct places.
##Click "Measure" when the alignment is correct. The board will be probed and the head will move to a second feature.
##Repeat steps 8 and 9.
##Click "Measure." The alignment is now finished.
##You can confirm the alignment by clicking various features and seeing if the head moves to the right position. If something is off, you can go back and realign if necessary. Proceed until you need to measure the height of the board.
##Click "Probe." This will measure the height of the board and determine how far away the dispenser needs to be from the board.
##Once it finishes probing, remove the probe and replace it in the drawer.
#'''Priming the Paste'''
##Refer to the priming directions in step 8 before mounting the dispenser.
##Once it is primed, mount it and proceed.
##Click "Dispense." The paste will dispense onto all of the selected pads.
##Strive for good coverage of paste, preferably covering most of the pad, if not all of it.
##Remove the dispenser. Twist the knob clockwise to back off the paste. '''Put it back in the fridge,''' and quit the Voltera app.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that you are handling a board with wet paste. Clean up!
#'''Cleaning up'''
##Clean any leftover paste or ink from the calibration switches by rubbing them with a dry cue tip before it dries.
##If any ink or paste remains elsewhere on the machine, use a cue tip or kimwipe with a little bit of isopropyl alcohol to clean it. Be careful not to drench the machine in isopropyl, as it could let gunk get into the machine and jam things up. [[File:Voltera cleaning.jpg|border|none|300x300px|Cleaning the calibration switches]]

You are now done with the PCB Printer! Refer to the Pick and Place as well as the Reflow Oven wikis for the remainder of the process.

==Debugging==
# First - Burnish the board very well. In order for the solder to adhere to the print traces, they need to be burnished.
# Fixing unconnected traces - You can take the syringe of ink and manually draw new traces or touch up existing traces. Then, using the [[Rework_Station]] on max temperature, you can heat up the trace and get it to melt/adhere. This could take a few minutes, but it can be more effective than restarting or heading to the oven.

==Safety==

#When the PCB Printer is moving and doing its thing, just let it be. Interfering will result in breaking equipment and possibly hurting yourself, especially with the drill. Voltera gives excellent advice/steps for their PCB fabrication process, be sure to follow them.
#If you feel like you do not know what you are doing, ask someone for help. You could damage both the equipment and possibly hurt yourself. Do not hesitate to ask or confirm at any point during the process.

==Certification==
Complete the PCB Lab - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/GH36RT Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==

#Drilling
##If your holes seem to be all out of wack, be sure to confirm the following: you should be using the vacuum to suck up any debris that comes from drilling your board while it is drilling. The pieces can interfere with your part.
##If they seem to be drilling in the wrong places, then it probably isn't aligned correctly. Go back in the process and start over.
#Calibration/Alignment
##During the probing process, be sure that your board is completely flat and that the clamps cover a minimal amount of the board while keeping it secure. If the probing hits the claps or runs off the board, the calibration is no good. Go back to the initial stages where you align holes/indicate where to print traces.
##When holes are available during the Alignment stage, always use them to align your board. NEVER use pads or traces unless you absolutely have to. Holes are much easier to align with.
#Printing Traces/Solder
##Be sure that the dispenser has been warming up to room temperature for at least 15 minutes so the ink can flow smoothly.
##If the ink does not seem come come out even when you're priming the dispenser, chances are that it is clogged. Remove the tip, notify a PCB Lab worker, and install a new tip (ask a worker if you don't know how).

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
The PCB Printer has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after each use, including ink/solder residue and drilled material
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Refrigerating the Dispensers
|Whenever they are not in use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Replacing Sacrificial Layer
|When the existing layer is worn through and can potential damage the heating bed
|Ace
|
|-
|Replacing Nozzle
|When the nozzle is clogged
|Student or Ace
|
|-
|Replacing ink/solder paste syringe
|Whenever out of ink/solder paste
|Ace
| 01/27/2022 by MM
|-
|Labeling dispenser with lot name
|Whenever ink/solder paste is replaced
|Ace
| 01/27/2022 by MM
|-
|Cleaning calibration switch linear hardware (Disassemble, clean, oil)
|Once yearly, or as required.
|Ace and Technician
| 01/27/2022 by MM
|}

Through Hole Press

2024-11-12T18:09:57Z

Justinj:

[[File:...PressyBoi.png|thumb]]

{{#set:
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|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Bungard
|Has model=PL-FAVORIT
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|Has icondesc=Through Hole Press Icon
|Has iconwname=File:image_pending.png
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|Has imagedesc=The Favorit Through Hole Press
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|Has ace=Isaac Beals;ibeals16@georgefox.edu
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Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Through Hole Press is a hand-operated through hole plating machine using rivets. A rivet is a component used to easily connect traces that are transitioning between the top and bottom layers of a PCB. As a whole, it is known as a via. Specifically, it is a small hollow copper tube that can be inserted on one side of the board, then - using a specialized rivet tool like the Through Hole Press - the rivets are pressed and deformed to connect both sides. There are other methods that carry out the same function, but using rivets is the fastest and most consistent method. {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ywfjknf6Vtg}}{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nz1TcfEnw-o}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
<gallery>
File:Pcb-trace-geometry-2.png|Trace
File:...via.png|Via
File:...rivet.png|Rivet
File:...rubberMallet.png|Rubber Mallet
</gallery>

[[Media:Favorit manual e.pdf|Through Hole Press User Manual]]

[[Media:Through hole press instructions and size chart.pdf|Instructions and Size Chart]]

[https://www.bungard.de/index.php/en/products/through-hole-plating-line/through-hole-plating Product Home Page]

==Training==
====Operation====

Rivets are used to connect traces on the top and bottom layers of a PCB. Traces are paths of conductive ink that connect components. Rivets can be pressed using either the Through Hole Press or a rubber mallet. Each method has its perks, so students will learn both methods.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the press, the student will press 2 rivets by using a rubber mallet and 2 rivets using the press. A test PCB with many holes of different sizes will be provided and reused among students.

====General Procedure====

#Hole Sizing
##Before pressing a rivet, you need to make sure you design the holes so that they fit well. For a rivet to fit nicely in a hole, the hole diameter needs to be 0.1 mm (3.9 mils) larger than the rivet outer diameter. Use the table below to see what types of rivets Voltera offers. Also, refer to the chart below to assure you have the right size rivet for the hole you are pressing it into.[[File:Through_hole_press_chart_snippet.PNG|none|thumb|500x500px]][[File:...rivetTable.png|none|thumb]]'''NOTE: Currently the tool for 0.4mm rivets is broken, so this size should not be used in designs. Use 0.6mm rivets instead.'''
##Additionally, these rivets are hollow, so these can also be used to secure headers on your PCB. When placing vias in your design program, ensure the right drill size is used so the PCB Printer leaves enough space when printing the ink.
#Using Through Hole Press
##Follow the instructions in the following video for setting up the correct tool set for your rivet.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWoPXiklzl0}}
##You will need to place all the rivets into the board. Some like to use their fingers, some like to use tweezers, it is up to you. Pinching the rivets on the side is the easiest way to go, as shown in the picture below.[[File:...rivetPlacing.png|none|thumb]]
##The through hole press pretty much just flattens down the other side on the rivet. Once all rivets have been placed, you will need to turn it upside down while keeping the rivets snug inside the hole in order to flatten the other side. Find a flat unused PCB, place it over the rivets, and turn it upside down to keep them from falling out. Using some tape to keep the plate stable on the board is something to try if things are not quite going your way.[[File:...rivetFlip.png|none|thumb]]
##Before pressing the rivets, you need to make sure you have the right tool inserted into the upper and lower parts of the press. These tools can be found in the drawer in front of the press. The tool you choose should have the same inside diameter of the rivet you want to press.
##Now it is time to press the rivets. Place the board over the pin of the lower tool and fit a rivet over the pin as far as possible. To flatten the other side of the rivet, press the lever until it reaches the stop pin, then release. [[File:...rivetPress.png|none|thumb]]
##Your rivet should change somewhat like this. Pressing the rivet too hard can cause it to crack and damage the traces on the board, yet pressing the rivet too softly will to a poor job because it will not make a firm connection with the traces. It should be hit just hard enough to deform the rivet to make a firm connection with the traces. With practice, you'll learn the right amount of pressure to apply. [[File:...rivetBeforeAfter.png|none|thumb]]
#Using the Rubber Mallet
##Rivets can also be pressed using a rubber mallet! The setup for the through hole press apply here as well. This method is faster than the Through Hole Press, but it is not as consistent.
##You will need to place all the rivets into the board. Some like to use their fingers, some like to use tweezers, it is up to you. Pinching the rivets on the side is the easiest way to go, as shown in the picture below.[[File:...rivetPlacing.png|none|thumb]]
##The through hole press pretty much just flattens down the other side on the rivet. Once all rivets have been placed, you will need to turn it upside down while keeping the rivets snug inside the hole in order to flatten the other side. Find a flat unused PCB, place it over the rivets, and turn it upside down to keep them from falling out. Using some tape to keep the unused PCB stable on the board is something to try if things are not quite going your way. [[File:...rivetFlip.png|none|thumb]]
##Using the rubber mallet and the rivet tool, you can press the rivet as shown in the picture below. Place the tip of the tool inside the rivet in an upright position, then hit the top of the tool with the mallet. The rivet tool can be found in the drawers in front of the PCB Printers.[[File:...rubberMalletPress.png|none|thumb]]
##Your rivet should change somewhat like this. Pressing the rivet too hard can cause it to crack and damage the traces on the board, yet pressing the rivet too softly will to a poor job because it will not make a firm connection with the traces. It should be hit just hard enough to deform the rivet to make a firm connection with the traces. With practice, you'll learn the right amount of pressure to apply. Come stop by![[File:...rivetBeforeAfter.png|none|thumb]]

==Safety==
There is not much that can hurt you while using the machine or the rubber mallet. Do not put any part of yourself under the through hole press, because it will try to punch a hole in you. The same idea goes with the mallet and the '''rivet''' tool. Do not swing it or do any dumb stuff. This should not have to be said, but people are dumb sometimes. Please do not be that person.

As for the through hole press and its tools, there any many things that could damage it. Especially tools for small rivet diameter (0.4 and 0.6 mm) are sensitive and require careful handling. The tip of the upper tool and springloaded pin of the bottom tool '''should be guarded against damage.''' Avoid any excessive pressure on both parts! For transport reasons the tip of the lower tool may be hidden inside of the tool body. If so, carefully turn in the headless screw, until the tip shows up again, but still can be pushed into the body again.

==Certification==
Complete the PCB Lab - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/GH36RT Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
If a rivet is not connecting the top and bottom layer traces, it is probably not pressed well, meaning it is not making good contact with the trace on both layers. A well placed rivet gives a good connection that is resistant to bending and twisting. In order to obtain a good long-term stability, we recommend that you apply our SUR-TIN immersion tin. This will help to prevent corrosion at the transition layer of the rivet and the copper clad (and will increase solderability). If you place component leads in the rivet holes and solder them from one side only, you should avoid thermal stress to the rivet. Certainly if solder passes the rivet it can cause the rivet to grow under the heat so that the rivet becomes loose. In such case, you should solder fix both rivet collars to the pads before inserting component leads.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

There is little to no maintenance to be done on this machine. Just be sure to reset the space, put away any rivets, tools, and PCBs that you have used.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and After each use, put away any rivets, tools, and PCBs that you have used
|Student
|}

__TOC__

Milling Machine

2024-09-03T18:20:56Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Machine Shop
|Is used in domain=Metal

|Has instance=Mill 1
|Has instance=Mill 2
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|Has priority=30
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Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Safety First==
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]
Here are some safety instructions for the {{PAGENAME}}. Remember... SAFETY FIRST!!!
* General shop protocol is important when using the mill. Long hair, long sleeves, jewelry, gloves, and lanyards are all risks to be wrapped up by the spindle and should not be worn.
* Always make sure that there is plenty of space between the cutting tool and the work piece before turning on the mill. If the tool comes into contact with the work piece before getting up to speed and is set deeper than the maximum cutting depth, things will break.
* At times your work piece may be obscured by metal chips while cutting. Do not remove them while the machine is running. Turn off the mill, wait till it comes to a complete stop, and then remove the chips. There are some brushes on the tool rack that may be helpful for removing stubborn chips.
* The milling process is great at creating sharp edges. Be aware of this when handling the work piece and make sure to deburr any sharp edges.
* Never make contact with the cutters as they are razor sharp and will cut you.
* Never pass your hand under a cutter.

==Description==

The Bridgeport Series 1 Mill is a vertical mill used to mill various materials into desired shapes and sizes. It can also be used to perform special functions such as drilling, chamfering, reaming, fly cutting, and many more. Some examples of items made from mills are piston bore holes, valve plates, gears, and even your own tools. This is done by using a rotary cutter to remove material by advancing a cutter into a work piece in varying direction along three axes. Milling covers a wide variety of different operations and machines, on scales from small individual parts to large, heavy-duty gang milling operations. It is one of the most commonly used processes for machining custom parts to precise tolerances. The video below shows a part being machined by a CNC mill which is a computer driven mill, but still demonstrates the milling process.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U99asuDT97I}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* Spindle - The rotating shaft, driven by the motor, that holds the cutting tools.
* Quill - The part of the vertical milling machine that raises and lowers cutting tools held in the spindle.
* Quill Handle - The long handle on the right side of the machine that raises and lowers the quill.
* Endmill - A common machining tool having cutting teeth on the end of a cylindrical shank and usually spiral blades on the lateral surface. Because of this geometry it can cut in any direction.
* Facing - The process of cutting a flat surface perpendicular to the axes of the milling cutter. Often this is done on the initial piece of raw stock as the first step in the milling process.
* Deburring - To neaten and smooth the rough edges or ridges of a part after it has been machined.
* Edge finding - The process of using an edge finder to align the coordinate system of the mill with the corner of your part.
* Collet - A device that forms a collar around an object to be held and exerts a strong clamping force on the object when it is tightened. On the mill the collet is attached to the spindle and is used to hold cutting tools in place.
* Parallels - Thin, flat pieces of metal that are used to hold a work piece "parallel" to the mill's work table.

====[[Media:KneeMill-Complete-Manual.pdf|Milling Machine User Manual]]====

==Training==

==== Operation ====
When making a part, it can usually be milled in several different ways and as a result this will focus on general operations such as changing tools, starting and stopping the spindle, changing speeds, and changing gears. To learn how to mill the specific part for the demonstration see the video below. The first thing you will need to do is properly secure your work piece in the vice. Place the piece in between the jaws and turn the handle clockwise to tighten. If the piece is to small to protrude from the top of the vice use a set of parallels to raise the work piece above the vice. This makes it easy to face the work piece without damaging the vice. Next you will need to insert a tool. To insert a cutting tool under the new system, push the tool upwards into the collet with one hand and then push quill handle up with the other to compress the spring above the collet. Pushing up on the quill handle will allow the the tool to slide up into the collet and the tool will lock in place once the handle is lowered. A decent amount of force is required to compress the spring so don't be afraid to push hard. To release the tool, hold it in one hand while pushing up on the quill handle and then pull it out once the spring is compressed. You are then ready to begin machining. Use the spindle start-stop switch to turn on the mill. You will notice an option for high or low on the switch. If the mill is in high gear, the high setting will run the spindle forward (clockwise) and the low setting will run the spindle in reverse. If the mill is in low gear, the opposite will occur. If you are not sure what gear the mill is in look at the high-low lever to determine the gear (check out the images below to see the location of the switches). Once the mill is on you will need to adjust the spindle speed to match your material by referring to the speed chart on the wall above the mill and turning the spindle speed hand wheel till the speed is correct. Only adjust the speed while the machine is ON. You may need to switch gears to achieve the proper speed. Do this by rotating the high-low range lever from the current gear to the desired gear. Do not force the lever into place if there is resistance; instead use your other hand to slightly twist the spindle so that the range lever slides into place. After the machine is on, use the axes adjustment handles and the digital display to mill your part. Feel free to ask a shop supervisor for specifics or best milling processes for your part. <gallery widths="250" heights="250">
File:MillOn.png
File:MillSpeed.png
File:MillRange.png
File:QuillHandle.png
</gallery>
====Demonstration====

For the demonstration, you will face a piece of aluminum stock, drill a hole in the center, ream the hole, and deburr all of the edges. Reference the video below to see what this should look like.

This video contains specific information for using the Mills in the Maker Hub as well as a basic overview of what will be expected in your live demonstration. {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJjXAxYH9TA}}{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0190xVaZPNw}}'''Note''' that the tool changing system has been upgraded since this video was produced. To insert a cutting tool using the new system, push the collet upwards into the spindle with one hand and then push the quill handle against the end of travel with the other to compress the spring in the tool change mechanism. Make sure the quill lock is unlocked when installing or removing tooling. Pushing up on the quill handle will allow the the tool to slide up into the collet and the tool will lock in place once the handle is lowered. A decent amount of force is required to compress the spring so don't be afraid to push hard. Make sure to push the quill feed handle towards the machine to prevent the handle from disengaging. To release the tool, hold it in one hand while pushing up on the quill handle and then pull it out once the spring is compressed. Never make contact with the cutter while inserting or removing tooling from the spindle.

==Reset the Space==
[[File:Reset The Space HD2.png|left|150px]]
Here is how you can reset the space for the {{PAGENAME}}. Always reset the space!!!
* Turn off the machine.
* Do not leave any tool within the collet.
* Clean and return all tools back to the workbench and/or tool cart.
* Sweep and vacuum the machine.
* Put any unused materials back on the storage shelf and put small pieces in the scrap box.

==Certification==
Complete the Machine Shop - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/GH36RT Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
* Not cutting smoothly - Check that the spindle is set to the proper direction. This will cause the tool to not cut properly and will damage the tool. Check that the tool is sharp and the cut depth is not too large as well. Adding cutting oil will also improve the cut.
* Can't reach low spindle speeds - If you adjust the speed dial to a low spindle speed but the spindle is still moving fast then the mill must be switched into low range. Stop the mill, flip the lever on the right side of the machine to low, and then turn the mill back on. Make sure to turn on switch to low when the mill is in low range or the spindle will spin backwards.
* Difficult to shift to low range - At times it can difficult to lock the lever into place when switching between high and low range. If this occurs, twist the spindle slightly while switching the lever so that it will lock in place. Twisting the spindle helps the internal gears lock into place properly.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

This machine requires minimal maintenance but like all the other machines in the Maker Hub it is important to clean the machine of metal chips and any other debris after each use. The shop vac is best suited for this task. Anything more advanced is taken care of by Justin.

Reflow Oven

2024-02-28T17:07:36Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=LPKF
|Has model=ProtoFlow S N2
|Has serial number=0Z2701N343
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File:reflow_oven_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Reflow Oven Icon
|Has image=File:protoflow.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Protoflow Reflow Oven
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1297
|Has group=Circuit Board Design
|Has ace=Karson Rhoads;krhoads20@georgefox.edu
}}
[[File:Reflow oven icon.png|left|140x140px|frameless]]
[[File:....theOven.jpg|thumb|400x400px]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Reflow Oven (ProtoFlow S N2) is LPKF's premiere convection oven, ideal for lead-free reflow soldering, meeting the stringent demands of rapid PCB soldering applications. The Reflow Oven features even heat distribution, easy programming, and many pre-defined temperature profiles. The compact design and efficient power consumption make it one of the most useful components in any rapid PCB prototyping environment. {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zsvn2-WkZLk}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
<gallery>
File:bake_ink_selection.jpg|LCD Dispay
File:bake_go.jpg|Tray
</gallery>

[[Media:LPKF ProtoFlow S, User manual, ENG, v2.11.pdf|Reflow Oven User Manual]]

[[Media:protoflow_datasheet.pdf|Reflow Oven Datasheet]]

[https://www.lpkfusa.com/products/pcb_prototyping/smt_assembling/protoflow_s/ Product Home Page]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Reflow Oven bakes PCBs to harden the traces and pads where components are laid. It's just like your oven at home with a few extra accessories, like preset profiles that adjust the temperature and time based on the ink/paste you put on your board.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the oven, the student will have a PCB prepared by the PCB Printer and follow the instructions in the General Procedure.

====General Procedure====
# Power the Reflow Oven on by pressing the power button on the front.
# Select the respective ink/paste on the LCD Display. Different inks and pastes have different heat cycles, so it is important that you choose the right one. You can scroll through the options using the Up and Down keys. The Left key goes back, and the Right key selects. In this specific instance, V1 Ink is selected. Recall that each dispenser is assigned to a color. Green is V1 Ink, Orange is V1 Paste, and Blue is Sn63Pb37.[[File:bake_ink_selection.jpg|300x300px|none|link=https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/File:Bake_ink_selection.jpg]]
# The oven will warm up. When its ready, select "Enter" to open the tray.
# '''DANGER: The rails could be HOT! Take caution.''' Place the board securely on the rails.[[File:bake_place.jpg|300x300px|none|link=https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/File:Bake_place.jpg]]
# Select "Enter" to close the tray.
# The preheat will take 2 minutes. The baking process takes about 30 minutes for traces and 3 minutes for the paste.
# The tray will automatically open to initiate the cool down phase. At the end of this process, the traces and pads will harden. '''DO NOT remove the board until the oven says all the stages are complete. DANGER: The rails are HOT!'''
# When cool down is complete, remove the board from the oven, and turn off the oven.

==Safety==
# '''Never''' place anything in front of the oven door inside of the yellow striped area. This could result in severe damage to the oven.
# Under no circumstances may the lab be left unattended for more than a brief minute while the oven is running.
# Always follow the instructions on the LCD Display. It is your guide that keeps you safe.
# When the tray opens up after baking a board, be patient and let the board cool down. If you handle it while it is too hot, it can burn you and shift your components (not good).
# Once you are finished using the Reflow Oven, clean the inside and turn it off. '''RESET THE SPACE'''.
# If you do not want to risk being burnt by the rails when you place your board in the oven, open the tray and place your board '''BEFORE''' beginning the baking process.
# If you do get burnt, immediately place the burn under cold running cold water for a while. There is a sink to the right of the oven to help you out. This keeps it from blistering.

==Certification==
Complete the PCB Lab - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/G7CTPX Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
There are little to no issues to run into while using the oven. The most common issue is failure to select the correct profile, which results in non-hardened traces and pads. Remember, Green is V1 Ink, Orange is V1 Paste, and blue is SN63Pb37. If this happens, simply bake the board again using the correct profile. In the event that something happens out of the ordinary, follow the table below.

[[File:...ovenTroubleshooting.png|none|thumb]]

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The oven should always be clean. Make sure it is clean before and after use. If something is not working and needs to be fixed, refer to the table above in the Troubleshooting section.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
Refer to the table in the Troubleshooting section for advanced solutions.
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Remove Debris
|Before and after each use
|Student
|}
__TOC__

 <references />

Rework Station

2024-02-28T17:06:37Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Zephyrtronics
|Has model=ZT-2, ZT-3, ZT-1-CLS-DPU, Hakko FR-301, Quick861DW
|Has serial number=
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File:Solder Rework Station.png
|Has icondesc=Rework Station Icon
|Has iconwname=File:image_pending.png
|Has image=File:Rework Station.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The Rework Station
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1297
|Has group=
|Has ace=Karson Rhoads;krhoads20@georgefox.edu
}}
[[File:Rework Station.jpg|thumb]]
[[File:Solder Rework Station.png|left|110x110px|frameless]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Rework Station is essential for fixing what you messed up during the fabrication process. Consisting of an Air Bath, Air Pencil, and Air Pick, the Rework Station allows you heat up a specific area of the PCB and make modifications, whether that means adding/removing some solder on the pads, rotating a component, or completely replacing a component. Other tools are available for similar purposes, such as a desoldering gun, and an additional heat gun for larger components.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_yFDpSTfao}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
<gallery>
File:...airBath.jpg|Air Bath (ZT-1-CLS-DPU)
File:...airPencil.jpg|Air Pencil (ZT-2)
File:...airPick.jpg|Air Pick (ZT-3)
File:...desolderingGun.jpg|Desoldering Gun (Hakko FR-301)
File:...heatGun.jpg|Heat Gun (Quick861DW)
</gallery>

[http://www.zeph.com/smdpreheater.htm Zephyrtronics Airbath]

[http://www.zeph.com/pencil.html Zephyrtronics Airpencil]

[http://www.zeph.com/zt3web.htm Zephyrtronics Airpick]

[[Media:Fr301e20180402.pdf|Hakko FR-301 User Manual]]

[[Media:861DW-english--manual.pdf|Quick-861DW User Manual]]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Airbath can heat up to 205 °C, which can be enough to melt the solder on a PCB. Some solder melts at even higher temperatures than this, which can be achieved using the Air Pencil and/or Heat Gun. Essentially, the Air Bath heats up the board and the Air Pencil finishes the job by heating up the part of the board that we want to fix (because we don't want to melt the solder on the parts that are already good to go). This is where the Air Pick and tweezers come in. After heating up the part we want to fix, the tweezers are used to remove a component while the Air Pick uses a vacuum to place a component on the board. If the component is too small, using tweezers to pick up the component is also a good alternative.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the Air Bath, Air Pencil, Air Pick, Desoldering Gun, and Heat Gun, the student will have a PCB prepared and perform tasks with the station as a whole. Using the Air Bath, Air Pencil, and Air Pick, students will remove a SMD and solder it back on. Using the Desoldering Gun, students will remove a soldered through hole component. Using the Heat Gun, students will mount a larger SMD, solder it on, and then remove it.

====General Procedure====

#Fixing/Replacing SMD Components
##Before turning on the Air Bath, clamp the PCB on the black stand, preferably placing it so that the component you want to fix is directly above the air. You should not be able to move the board once it is clamped. Keeping it sturdy helps from accidentally moving the PCB during the reworking process.
##The Air Bath has a power switch on the left, three buttons on the right, and a screen on the right. The switch has 3 positions which allows you to choose Cool, Off, and Warm by pressing it in their respective directions. The button on the right allow you to adjust the temperature in a rather funny way. The middle button has a down arrow while the right button has an up arrow, indicating which button decreases/increases the temperature of the bath. However, you need to hold down the left button while doing so. For instance, to increase the temperature, you would hold the left and right buttons at the same time.[[File:AirBathBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
##Now you will heat up the Air Bath. Hit the Power switch on the front, and set the temperature about 20-30 °C below the solder's melting point. The melting point for your solder can be found using the table below. Voltera's Solder Paste (Orange) melts at lower temperatures than the Sn63Pb37 Solder Paste (Blue). If the Voltera Solder Paste says T4 at the top, heat the Air Bath to 180 °C. If the Voltera Solder Paste says T5 at the top, heat the Air Bath to 150 °C. If you are using the Sn63Pb37 Solder Paste, heat the Air Bath to 150 °C. [[File:...meltingPointTable.png|none|thumb]]
##Once the board is heated, you can use the Air Pencil to heat up a specific component. The pencil blows hot air out the end. When you turn it on, adjust the settings to be 3/4 of the heat capacity and about 1/3 of the air flow. We do this because when the air flow is maximized at full temperature, it does not get hot enough to melt the solder. Too much air flow is bad.
##Hold the tip of the pencil over the SMD you want to solder/desolder, and move it slightly around the leads to allow for more distribution of heat. If it is not heating it up, try turning the heat of the pencil higher. This should allow for your SMD components solder to melt, and you will be able to pick up the component up with a pair of static-safe tweezers or the Air Pick. If you are soldering a part on, make sure to generously apply flux to the pads, and make sure all the solder sticks to the pads after heating.
##If the pencil is not doing a good enough job to heat up the component, then you may graduate to using the bigger heat gun, the Quick861DW. The same theoretical concepts apply, however, one potential downside of this is that it affects a larger area than the pencil. You may unintentionally melt the solder of components that you don't want to melt, so be extra careful my dudes.
##The Air Pick uses a vacuum to pick up and place components. Typically you would use both hands for this; one hand heats up the component with the pencil and the other grabs the component with the pick.
##On the handle of the pick there is a divot that is connected to the vacuum. When you plug the divot with your finger, it will enable it to pick up a component. When you release your finger from the divot, it will let go of the component. There are different tips that you will place on the end of the tip based on the component you want to pick up, each having a different size for varying components.
#Desoldering Through Hole Components
##For desoldering through hole components, you will want to use the Desoldering Gun. It has a hot tip that can fit over a solder joint and utilizes a vacuum when the trigger is pulled. As a result, it melts the solder and sucks it into a cartridge, completely removing the joint.
##Before using the Desoldering Gun, make sure you have the little metal stand for the gun to sit on for safety purposes. Have Solder ready nearby to tin the tip before use, and clean the tip after tinning using the wire mesh.
##On the handle of the gun there is a temperature control wheel that ranges from 1-4 (coolest to hottest). Be sure to set it to the correct temperature using the graphic below. Typically, a through hole component would require you to set the scale to 2.[[File:...SolderingGun.png|none|thumb]]
##To use the Desoldering Gun, briefly put the top over a solder joint (not completely on the PCB or you might damage it), press the trigger to enable the vacuum, and the solder should be sucked away!
##Tin the tip before cooldown, and take note that the cooldown may take a bit of time. Don't burn yourself!

==Safety==
The most important thing about all these machines: THEY GET REALLY HOT!

Be so so careful because these machines can get up to temperatures of potentially 700°F. Always be wary of where you are blowing the hot air with the air guns, so you don’t melt other things. Be wary of how hot your PCB can get, and always put the cooling setting on after you’re finished with the Air Bath before picking your PCB up, because you can burn yourself.

==Certification==
Complete the PCB Lab - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/G7CTPX Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==

#Suppose the solder isn't melting. Consult the temperature table in the General Procedure, chances are that you just need to make it hotter, little by little.
#Suppose the Air Pick is not picking up the component. Use the appropriate tip and make sure you are plugging the little divot to enable it to pick up. If these aren't working, resort to using tweezers.
#Suppose the components are getting blown away from the pads you want it to sit on. Well, turn down the air my dude.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Wrap all cords and make them look tidy. Make sure all devices are turned off and returned to their original place. Do not leave tweezers or extra parts laying around, put them back in the accessories drawer.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after every use
|Student
|-
|Tinning tip of Desoldering Gun
|Before and after every use
|Student
|-
|Emptying solder out of desoldering gun reservoir
|As needed
|Student/Ace
|-
|Replacing desoldering gun filter
|As needed
|Ace
|}

Pick and Place

2024-02-28T17:05:53Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=true
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=LPKF
|Has model=Protoplace S
|Has serial number=0Z2701L006
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File:Pick & place icon.png
|Has icondesc=Pick and Place icon
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Pick_&_place.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Pick and Place Machine
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1294
|Has ace=Karson Rhoads;krhoads20@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

Pick & Place (Protoplace S) is a semi-automatic pick & place system for the professional assembly of Surface Mount Technology (SMT) printed circuit board prototypes and small batch projects. It is capable of dispensing solder paste, glues, and adhesives, but we typically use it just for placing minuscule components on PCBs.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=maV2KG8O29A}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
# Micro-Table
## This clamps PCBs as large as 297mm x 420mm (11.8” x 16.5”). Knobs at the front of the micro-table allow for fine adjustments along the X and Y axes, which are ideal for the placement of complex components.
# Manipulator
## The manipulator is what picks & places components. It is also capable of dispensing solder paste, glues, and adhesives with the dispenser attachment, however, we will not use these features. The manipulator can reach everywhere on the micro-table that will be needed for projects, including the turntable. The manipulator uses the vacuum and appropriate needle attachment in order to pick & place components.
# Manipulator Knob
## The knob above the box on the manipulator rotates the nozzle; so it rotates components sucked on the knob.
# Turntable
## The turntable is what houses the components used in the project. The turntable can be controlled using the keyboard and LCD display.
# Micro Camera and Monitor
## The micro camera captures the end of the nozzle so that you can view (on the monitor) an accurate representation of where the component will be placed.
[[File:Pick And Place.png|none|thumb|500x500px]]

[[Media:Lpkf protoplace manual (eng).pdf|Pick and Place User Manual]]

[[Media:ProtoPlace_S_Specifications_'16.pdf|Pick and Place Datasheet]]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Pick and Place organizes and helps place minuscule surface mount components by using a vacuum and a nozzle that is triggered by the amount of pressure applied to the nozzle (pushing down on a component).

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the Pick and Place, the Student will have a PCB Prepared by the PCB Printer and follow the instructions in the General Procedure.

====General Procedure====
# Turn on the machine. The switch is located in the back left (if viewed from the front of the machine).
# Ensure that the correct vacuum tip is attached to the manipulator. If the tip is larger than the parts you are trying to pick up, then you need to change out the tip for something smaller. You can change tips for various sized components during the process.
## '''Do not use nozzles too large or the component will get sucked into the machine and the machine will get damaged.'''
# Place all of the parts needed for the project into their own sections on the turntable.
## It would be a good idea to have a separate section for each component for organization purposes (for yourself and others).
## Use a sticky note or labeling system of some sort for different components like resistor values.
## The turntable can be operated by selecting either Auto or Manual from the place menu, and then selecting Turntable. Press the left and right arrows to rotate clockwise and counter-clockwise.
# Turn on the monitor that will display the output of the micro camera. This will help you view your part while you are placing it on the pads.
# Clamp your board onto the microtable. You should not be able to move your board when it is secured.
# On the LCD, using the keyboard:
## Place -> auto/manual.
## Manual mode will only turn on the vacuum when sufficient pressure is applied to the nozzle (when you press the nozzle onto a component).
## Auto mode will always have the vacuum enabled.
# Let's assume we are in manual mode for the remainder of this procedure (easier because you can't accidentally pick up components). Move the manipulator to the desired component. Grab the component by pushing the nozzle down onto the surface of the component.
## '''Be sure that the component is not upside down!'''
# Move the manipulator and component to the position that the footprint is located (it doesn’t have to be exact yet). Using the keyboard and LCD screen, hit the Brake option on the right of the LCD screen. This locks the manipulator so you cannot move it like you normally do which makes it easy to place your components.
# You can use the fine knobs on the front of the pick and place to make precise movements as well as the camera to assure you are placing it correctly on the pads.
## A higher resolution view can be seen on the monitor that’s output from the micro camera.
# Using the keyboard and LCD screen, hit the Place option. It places the component straight down for you!
# Repeat this process until all components are placed.
# Upon completion, refer to the instructions on the Reflow Oven wiki. The solder has not been solidified yet, so be careful with your board so you do not move components. Remember to select the correct setting: V1 Paste if you are using Voltera's special Ink and Paste, and Sn63Pb37 for prefabricated PCBs.
# '''RESET THE SPACE!''' Remove any notes and clean up any lost components.

==Safety==
There is almost nothing you can do on this device that will hurt you. If you place your hand under the nozzle and then smash down the nozzle, you will hurt yourself. Do not do this for obvious reasons.

However, there are things that can hurt the Pick and Place.
# Be gentle with how you treat the nozzle; press down gently when picking and placing components.
# Be sure to use a smaller nozzle than the component you are trying to place! Failure to do this results in sucking up the component into the nozzle which can clog it and prevent the vacuum from being effectively used.

==Certification==
Complete the PCB Lab - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/G7CTPX Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
# There are two monitors above the pick and place machine. You’ll want to have your Altium Schematic on one and the altium PCBDoc opened up so you can follow along as you’re placing and double checking things while you’re going.
# Don’t try to get the component exactly at the location of the pads without the brake. It’s quicker if you get it in the general area and use the fine adjustments knob after placing the brake.
# Pivot the micro camera to view alignments on both the x and y axes (again, the fine adjustment knobs are used here).
# If your tip is having a hard time keeping the component secure, try a bigger one.
# Be sure to use a smaller nozzle than the component you are trying to place! Failure to do this results in sucking up the component into the nozzle which can clog it and prevent the vacuum from being effectively used.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The Pick and Place has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure and how often it should occur.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after use. Clean solder off of nozzle and clean table of loose components.
|Student
|-
|Nozzle Change
|Only when a component has been sucked up into the nozzle.
|Student and Ace
|}

Through Hole Press

2024-02-28T17:04:54Z

Justinj:

[[File:...PressyBoi.png|thumb]]

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Bungard
|Has model=PL-FAVORIT
|Has serial number=2018-2231
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File: Through_hole_pressIcon.png
|Has icondesc=Through Hole Press Icon
|Has iconwname=File:image_pending.png
|Has image=File:through_hole_press_image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The Favorit Through Hole Press
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1293
|Has group=
|Has ace=Karson Rhoads;krhoads20@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Through Hole Press is a hand-operated through hole plating machine using rivets. A rivet is a component used to easily connect traces that are transitioning between the top and bottom layers of a PCB. As a whole, it is known as a via. Specifically, it is a small hollow copper tube that can be inserted on one side of the board, then - using a specialized rivet tool like the Through Hole Press - the rivets are pressed and deformed to connect both sides. There are other methods that carry out the same function, but using rivets is the fastest and most consistent method. {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ywfjknf6Vtg}}{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nz1TcfEnw-o}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
<gallery>
File:Pcb-trace-geometry-2.png|Trace
File:...via.png|Via
File:...rivet.png|Rivet
File:...rubberMallet.png|Rubber Mallet
</gallery>

[[Media:Favorit manual e.pdf|Through Hole Press User Manual]]

[[Media:Through hole press instructions and size chart.pdf|Instructions and Size Chart]]

[https://www.bungard.de/index.php/en/products/through-hole-plating-line/through-hole-plating Product Home Page]

==Training==
====Operation====

Rivets are used to connect traces on the top and bottom layers of a PCB. Traces are paths of conductive ink that connect components. Rivets can be pressed using either the Through Hole Press or a rubber mallet. Each method has its perks, so students will learn both methods.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the press, the student will press 2 rivets by using a rubber mallet and 2 rivets using the press. A test PCB with many holes of different sizes will be provided and reused among students.

====General Procedure====

#Hole Sizing
##Before pressing a rivet, you need to make sure you design the holes so that they fit well. For a rivet to fit nicely in a hole, the hole diameter needs to be 0.1 mm (3.9 mils) larger than the rivet outer diameter. Use the table below to see what types of rivets Voltera offers. Also, refer to the chart below to assure you have the right size rivet for the hole you are pressing it into.[[File:Through_hole_press_chart_snippet.PNG|none|thumb|500x500px]][[File:...rivetTable.png|none|thumb]]'''NOTE: Currently the tool for 0.4mm rivets is broken, so this size should not be used in designs. Use 0.6mm rivets instead.'''
##Additionally, these rivets are hollow, so these can also be used to secure headers on your PCB. When placing vias in your design program, ensure the right drill size is used so the PCB Printer leaves enough space when printing the ink.
#Using Through Hole Press
##Follow the instructions in the following video for setting up the correct tool set for your rivet.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWoPXiklzl0}}
##You will need to place all the rivets into the board. Some like to use their fingers, some like to use tweezers, it is up to you. Pinching the rivets on the side is the easiest way to go, as shown in the picture below.[[File:...rivetPlacing.png|none|thumb]]
##The through hole press pretty much just flattens down the other side on the rivet. Once all rivets have been placed, you will need to turn it upside down while keeping the rivets snug inside the hole in order to flatten the other side. Find a flat unused PCB, place it over the rivets, and turn it upside down to keep them from falling out. Using some tape to keep the plate stable on the board is something to try if things are not quite going your way.[[File:...rivetFlip.png|none|thumb]]
##Before pressing the rivets, you need to make sure you have the right tool inserted into the upper and lower parts of the press. These tools can be found in the drawer in front of the press. The tool you choose should have the same inside diameter of the rivet you want to press.
##Now it is time to press the rivets. Place the board over the pin of the lower tool and fit a rivet over the pin as far as possible. To flatten the other side of the rivet, press the lever until it reaches the stop pin, then release. [[File:...rivetPress.png|none|thumb]]
##Your rivet should change somewhat like this. Pressing the rivet too hard can cause it to crack and damage the traces on the board, yet pressing the rivet too softly will to a poor job because it will not make a firm connection with the traces. It should be hit just hard enough to deform the rivet to make a firm connection with the traces. With practice, you'll learn the right amount of pressure to apply. [[File:...rivetBeforeAfter.png|none|thumb]]
#Using the Rubber Mallet
##Rivets can also be pressed using a rubber mallet! The setup for the through hole press apply here as well. This method is faster than the Through Hole Press, but it is not as consistent.
##You will need to place all the rivets into the board. Some like to use their fingers, some like to use tweezers, it is up to you. Pinching the rivets on the side is the easiest way to go, as shown in the picture below.[[File:...rivetPlacing.png|none|thumb]]
##The through hole press pretty much just flattens down the other side on the rivet. Once all rivets have been placed, you will need to turn it upside down while keeping the rivets snug inside the hole in order to flatten the other side. Find a flat unused PCB, place it over the rivets, and turn it upside down to keep them from falling out. Using some tape to keep the unused PCB stable on the board is something to try if things are not quite going your way. [[File:...rivetFlip.png|none|thumb]]
##Using the rubber mallet and the rivet tool, you can press the rivet as shown in the picture below. Place the tip of the tool inside the rivet in an upright position, then hit the top of the tool with the mallet. The rivet tool can be found in the drawers in front of the PCB Printers.[[File:...rubberMalletPress.png|none|thumb]]
##Your rivet should change somewhat like this. Pressing the rivet too hard can cause it to crack and damage the traces on the board, yet pressing the rivet too softly will to a poor job because it will not make a firm connection with the traces. It should be hit just hard enough to deform the rivet to make a firm connection with the traces. With practice, you'll learn the right amount of pressure to apply. Come stop by![[File:...rivetBeforeAfter.png|none|thumb]]

==Safety==
There is not much that can hurt you while using the machine or the rubber mallet. Do not put any part of yourself under the through hole press, because it will try to punch a hole in you. The same idea goes with the mallet and the '''rivet''' tool. Do not swing it or do any dumb stuff. This should not have to be said, but people are dumb sometimes. Please do not be that person.

As for the through hole press and its tools, there any many things that could damage it. Especially tools for small rivet diameter (0.4 and 0.6 mm) are sensitive and require careful handling. The tip of the upper tool and springloaded pin of the bottom tool '''should be guarded against damage.''' Avoid any excessive pressure on both parts! For transport reasons the tip of the lower tool may be hidden inside of the tool body. If so, carefully turn in the headless screw, until the tip shows up again, but still can be pushed into the body again.

==Certification==
Complete the PCB Lab - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/G7CTPX Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
If a rivet is not connecting the top and bottom layer traces, it is probably not pressed well, meaning it is not making good contact with the trace on both layers. A well placed rivet gives a good connection that is resistant to bending and twisting. In order to obtain a good long-term stability, we recommend that you apply our SUR-TIN immersion tin. This will help to prevent corrosion at the transition layer of the rivet and the copper clad (and will increase solderability). If you place component leads in the rivet holes and solder them from one side only, you should avoid thermal stress to the rivet. Certainly if solder passes the rivet it can cause the rivet to grow under the heat so that the rivet becomes loose. In such case, you should solder fix both rivet collars to the pads before inserting component leads.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

There is little to no maintenance to be done on this machine. Just be sure to reset the space, put away any rivets, tools, and PCBs that you have used.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and After each use, put away any rivets, tools, and PCBs that you have used
|Student
|}

__TOC__

PCB Printer

2024-02-28T17:03:59Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Voltera
|Has model=V-One
|Has serial number=V1-05-0129-120 / V1-04-0183-120
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File:PCB_printer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Voltera Icon
|Has iconwname=File:PCB_printer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:voltera-vone.png
|Has imagedesc=The Voltera V-One PCB Printer
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1288
|Has group=Circuit Board Design
|Has ace=Karson Rhoads;krhoads20@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__
==Description==

The PCB Printer (Voltera V-One) brings quick turn PCBs to your desktop. Import your Gerber file into the Voltera software, press print, and the V-One will bring your board to life. Use the drilling, solder paste dispensing, and reflow features to mount components onto your printed board, or mount components on a pre-fabricated board with ease.

This is a simple example of what the PCB Printer can do. Currently the PCB lab has a different baking process using a different oven, so we will be curing the boards using a different method than shown in the video.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6nEgN4THRE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

The following conductive inks and pastes are stocked in the PCB Lab. Each material requires a special heating program setting. See each individual material below for the proper reflow oven setting.

Inks are also identified by a lot name and expiration date. If properly installed, the expiration date should be viewable through the window in the dispenser, but the lot name will not. Refer to the label on the back of the dispenser for the lot name. When selecting the ink you're using in the Voltera software, it will identify the ink by type, lot name, and expiration date. Make sure you select the correct one.

[[File:voltera_aqueous.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Conductive Ink'''

- Use to lay conductive traces on substrates (Green is "V1 Ink" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_furious.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste'''

- Use only on boards that utilize Voltera's ink traces, such as the ink above. (Orange is "V1 Paste" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_armored.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste Sn63 Pb37'''

- Use only premade boards, such as ones from [https://jlcpcb.com/ JLCPCB] (Blue is "Sn63Pb37" on Reflow Oven)

 
 

<gallery>
File:Voltera substrates.jpg|Substrates
File:Vone probe.jpg|Probe
File:Dispenser and Sheath.jpg|Dispenser and Sheath
File:Voltera conductive ink.png|Conductive Ink Cartridge
File:Voltera 225 nozzle.jpg|Nozzle - 225 Micron
File:Voltera burnish.jpg|Burnishing Pads
</gallery>

[[Media:Voltera V-One Manual English.pdf|Voltera User Manual]]

[https://support.voltera.io/circuit-design-guidelines Circuit Design Guidelines]

[https://support.voltera.io/altium#main Altium Gerber Export Guide]

[https://www.voltera.io/ Voltera Home Page]

[https://support.voltera.io/hc/en-us/sections/115001325748-User-Guides User Guides]

==Before you Print==

Here are a few things to check before exporting your gerber files and fabricating your PCB. [[File:Voltera-drillbits.png|thumb|300x300px|right|Available drill bit sizes]]

#Verify via hole sizes.
##Based on the size of what needs to go in the via, select a rivet with the proper internal diameter from the table on the [[Through Hole Press]] page.
##Once you've selected the rivet size, take the outer diameter of the rivet from the table and add 0.1mm.
##Check this outer diameter against the available drill sizes for the Voltera (see the image to the right). Round up to the nearest drill size and use that for the hole size in Altium.
#Verify annular ring size
##Your annular rings (via diameter) should be at least as large as the head diameter of the rivets you plan to use, otherwise they might not make good contact.
#Check that your design follows the circuit design guidelines at the link above

==Training==
====Operation====

The PCB Printer is a fantastic tool for prototyping PCBs. After uploading Gerber files from Altium or a related software, the Voltera will be able to print traces and pads. The Voltera has the ability to bake traces and reflow components on its heated bed, but you will need to use the reflow oven to bake boards. The PCB Lab uses the reflow oven for baking due to the amount of people it needs to accommodate, so users will only be using the PCB Printer to print traces and pads. The Conductive Ink (used for Traces) is indicated by a green dot on the dispenser, the Voltera Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by an orange dot on the dispenser, and the Manufactured Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by a blue dot on the dispenser.

Before beginning with your PCB, it is imperative that it is completely flat, meaning no components are installed, as it will result in breaking the nozzle of the dispenser, or it will be unable to calibrate correctly.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the PCB Printer, the student will design a PCB in Altium or related software, print the traces/pads, and transition to the Reflow Oven. As a part of the process, the student will also perform correct set up and shut down procedures, all of which can be found in the General Procedure below.

====General Procedure====

Using the Voltera to create single-sided boards with NO vias or holes.[[File:voltera_blinky_500.jpg|300x300px|thumb|right|Training board - The Blinky 500]]

#'''Drilling'''
##'''This board in particular does not have any holes, so this entire step can be skipped for this procedure''', however, these are the steps to take if you need to drill holes in the future.
##After opening the Voltera software, select Drill. This option is chosen only if you want to add holes to an existing board.
##For Drilling, you can either choose the Simple or Aligned route. Choose Simple if your board has no existing features, and choose Aligned if your board has some existing features. Lets go through the process for both.
##Drilling for a Simple Board
###Alrighty, you've chosen Simple, so this procedure assumes there is absolutely nothing fabricated on the board. Not gonna lie, this procedure is a little more sketchy than aligned simply because you literally eyeball your board's outline. The no eloquent calibration system. That's just how it works.
###Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
###Then it will ask you to move your boards location on the plate so the Voltera knows where it needs to drill. This is the sketchy part. It outlines a square, and you make a judgement based on what it thinks. If it outlines too low, move your circuit up further on the plate to compensate for it. If it outlines too far to the left, move your circuit to the right on the plate to compensate for it. Continue this process until it looks "good enough."
###Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication... [[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
###Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient. The transition between printing and drilling is done with the same alignment.
###Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
###The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
###And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
##Drilling for an Aligned Board
###Awesome, you've chosen Aligned, so this procedure assumes you have some preexisting holes and the like on the board.
###Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
###Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication...[[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
###Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
###Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green. Anything that is highlighted in Green will be executed.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
###The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
###And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
#'''Ready the Ink'''
##The ink is most usable when it reaches room temperature, so we have to let it warm up in advance.
##Grab the correct conductive ink from the fridge, and let it warm up to room temperature, about 15-30 minutes. It is labeled with a '''green''' sticker.
#'''Software Setup'''
##Download the files for this project [[Media:Pcb printer level 1.zip|here]].
##Power on the Voltera.
##Open the Voltera Windows application.
##Select "Print" and then "Simple." "Print" indicates that we want to print traces, and "Simple" indicates that the board is not pre-fabricated. If we had a pre-fabricated board, we would instead select "Aligned" so we can align the holes.
##Next we need to add the proper conductive ink, which is the same conductive ink you acquired in step 1.2.
##Load the ink file from the project files. This is the Top Layer Gerber file.
#'''Clamping the Substrate'''
##Acquire a 1.5" by 2" blank board. They are located in the one of the drawers.
##Slide the board underneath the clamps on the Voltera, push the clamps towards each other, and finger-tighten the thumb screws. You should not be able to move the board once you clamp them down. [[File:Voltera clamping.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Mounting the Probe'''
##Pull the probe from one of the drawers. The probe should have a large metal tip, do not confuse it with the dispenser. [[File:Voltera drawer.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Remove the cap and place it near the Voltera.
##Mount the probe onto the magnetic gantry. It should snap into place and the contacts should align. [[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Positioning and Probing'''
##Click "Outline." This will show you where the Voltera thinks the board is. It will move the probe around the printer surface and determine how close the dispenser will need to be to the board.
##Repeat step one until the outline is centered with the board. Click and drag the circuit in the Voltera application to move the outline.
##'''You MUST ensure the outline does not collide with the clamps AND does not exceed the dimensions of the board!''' Do NOT proceed until this is checked!
##In the next step, Click "Probe" and wait for the Voltera to finish its measurements. [[File:Voltera probing.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Remove the probe, replace the cap, place the probe back in the drawer, and proceed. 
#'''Priming the Conductor'''
##Ensure 15 minutes have passed before beginning the next step. This helps the ink flow easier, so the dispenser should not be cold to the touch.
##'''Read carefully.''' The Voltera application explains this step well. Follow the on-screen instructions before moving on to the next step. Some tips/tricks/warnings: - '''Nozzles are fragile!''' You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Treat this process with care! - Hold the dispenser over a paper towel to prevent ink from getting everywhere. - If you need to wipe the nozzle, do so '''gently''' and '''use a cotton swab found in the drawers.''' - Ink should not be flowing quickly out of the dispenser when you finish priming, but '''a very small amount''' of flow is OK. [[File:Voltera priming.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Mount the dispenser. [[File:Voltera mount_conductive.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Calibration'''
##Click "Advanced." Start with the '''Z at 0.10 mm''' and the '''E at 0 um'''. Adjust the Voltera to these values, as it is a safe distance for the dispenser.
##Click "Calibrate." The Voltera will lay down a test print. Pay close attention to the amount and consistency of the ink.[[File:Voltera calibrate.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##The example below has slightly too much ink. Notice how a portion of the horizontal lines touch and some parts of the ink glob up. [[File:Voltera calibrate_bad.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##In this case, to make an adjustment, the ink height was set to a '''Z of 0.09 mm''' and the flow was set to an '''E of -10 um.''' This dispenses less ink than before.
##'''You may need to do the same or make different adjustments. Whatever you do, do NOT run the nozzle into the board! The nozzle will break!'''
##If an adjustment was made, '''wipe the board clean with a paper towel (shown below) and/or clean it with isopropyl alcohol''' and repeat the calibration. [[File:Voltera calibrate_wipe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##The example below is a more acceptable test print. Strive for this consistency. If your board looks right, proceed. [[File:Voltera calibrate_better.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Click "Next," and wipe the board clean a final time, as you are now preparing to print your whole circuit. 
#'''Top Layer Print'''
##'''The Voltera will print what is selected in Green.''' Below is an example of a portion of the board selected. Ensure the portion you want to print is selected (in this case, select everything.) '''Remember that blue lines will not be printed.''' [[File:voltera_selection.PNG|300x300px|none]]
##Click "Start." Let the Voltera finish its process. If a portion of the print fails or is incorrect, you can stop mid-print, or wait until it is finished and redo that selection. Also shown below is an example of a portion of ink that globbed up. The portion was wiped and can be reprinted. [[File:voltera_printing.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_blob.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_redo.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
##Remove the conductive ink, put the cap back on, '''and return the conductive ink to the fridge!'''
##When you reach the instruction titled "Flip Board," you are done. We want to bake these traces on the Reflow Oven before we do anything else to the board.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera, and remember that the traces are still wet, so do not smear them around.
##Consult the Reflow Oven wiki and complete that process. Bake the board soon after printing to ensure best results.
#'''Preparing for Solder Paste'''
##You should now have a PCB with traces baked on it! Time to make those pads for placing components.
##Take a burnishing pad from one of the drawers. Rub the substrate with the pad until the traces have a shine to them, rather than a dull appearance. This cleans the surface of the traces and makes them look super shiny. '''AND IT IS CRITICALLY IMPORTANT!!! IF YOU DO NOT DO THIS, THE SOLDER HAS A VERY DIFFICULT TIME STICKING!!!!'''
##Replace the burnishing pad back into the drawer.
#'''Aligning the Paste'''
##This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to print solder. The user gives it two locations where the pads should go, and the Voltera can use the Gerber files to determine where else pads need to go.
##At this time, retrieve the solder paste from the fridge and set it out to warm. The correct paste is labeled with an '''orange''' sticker.
##Take the board back to the Voltera and clamp the board into place. Again, you should not be able to move the board after it is clamped.
##Open the Voltera application and choose "Solder," and choose the proper paste. In this case you want the '''orange'''-labeled paste.
##Clean the calibration switches, mount the probe, and proceed.
##Click 'Move to feature." This will move the probe to a pre-determined feature and should not be aligned properly on the first go. It is your job to align it correctly.
##First, use the arrow keys to roughly align the feature with the probe. This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to put the pads.
##Next, click "Lower," and use the arrow keys to fine-tune the alignment. Your precision in these steps is key to getting solder paste in the correct places.
##Click "Measure" when the alignment is correct. The board will be probed and the head will move to a second feature.
##Repeat steps 8 and 9.
##Click "Measure." The alignment is now finished.
##You can confirm the alignment by clicking various features and seeing if the head moves to the right position. If something is off, you can go back and realign if necessary. Proceed until you need to measure the height of the board.
##Click "Probe." This will measure the height of the board and determine how far away the dispenser needs to be from the board.
##Once it finishes probing, remove the probe and replace it in the drawer.
#'''Priming the Paste'''
##Refer to the priming directions in step 8 before mounting the dispenser.
##Once it is primed, mount it and proceed.
##Click "Dispense." The paste will dispense onto all of the selected pads.
##Strive for good coverage of paste, preferably covering most of the pad, if not all of it.
##Remove the dispenser. Twist the knob clockwise to back off the paste. '''Put it back in the fridge,''' and quit the Voltera app.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that you are handling a board with wet paste. Clean up!
#'''Cleaning up'''
##Clean any leftover paste or ink from the calibration switches by rubbing them with a dry cue tip before it dries.
##If any ink or paste remains elsewhere on the machine, use a cue tip or kimwipe with a little bit of isopropyl alcohol to clean it. Be careful not to drench the machine in isopropyl, as it could let gunk get into the machine and jam things up. [[File:Voltera cleaning.jpg|border|none|300x300px|Cleaning the calibration switches]]

You are now done with the PCB Printer! Refer to the Pick and Place as well as the Reflow Oven wikis for the remainder of the process.

==Debugging==
# First - Burnish the board very well. In order for the solder to adhere to the print traces, they need to be burnished.
# Fixing unconnected traces - You can take the syringe of ink and manually draw new traces or touch up existing traces. Then, using the [[Rework_Station]] on max temperature, you can heat up the trace and get it to melt/adhere. This could take a few minutes, but it can be more effective than restarting or heading to the oven.

==Safety==

#When the PCB Printer is moving and doing its thing, just let it be. Interfering will result in breaking equipment and possibly hurting yourself, especially with the drill. Voltera gives excellent advice/steps for their PCB fabrication process, be sure to follow them.
#If you feel like you do not know what you are doing, ask someone for help. You could damage both the equipment and possibly hurt yourself. Do not hesitate to ask or confirm at any point during the process.

==Certification==
Complete the PCB Lab - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/G7CTPX Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==

#Drilling
##If your holes seem to be all out of wack, be sure to confirm the following: you should be using the vacuum to suck up any debris that comes from drilling your board while it is drilling. The pieces can interfere with your part.
##If they seem to be drilling in the wrong places, then it probably isn't aligned correctly. Go back in the process and start over.
#Calibration/Alignment
##During the probing process, be sure that your board is completely flat and that the clamps cover a minimal amount of the board while keeping it secure. If the probing hits the claps or runs off the board, the calibration is no good. Go back to the initial stages where you align holes/indicate where to print traces.
##When holes are available during the Alignment stage, always use them to align your board. NEVER use pads or traces unless you absolutely have to. Holes are much easier to align with.
#Printing Traces/Solder
##Be sure that the dispenser has been warming up to room temperature for at least 15 minutes so the ink can flow smoothly.
##If the ink does not seem come come out even when you're priming the dispenser, chances are that it is clogged. Remove the tip, notify a PCB Lab worker, and install a new tip (ask a worker if you don't know how).

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
The PCB Printer has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after each use, including ink/solder residue and drilled material
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Refrigerating the Dispensers
|Whenever they are not in use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Replacing Sacrificial Layer
|When the existing layer is worn through and can potential damage the heating bed
|Ace
|
|-
|Replacing Nozzle
|When the nozzle is clogged
|Student or Ace
|
|-
|Replacing ink/solder paste syringe
|Whenever out of ink/solder paste
|Ace
| 01/27/2022 by MM
|-
|Labeling dispenser with lot name
|Whenever ink/solder paste is replaced
|Ace
| 01/27/2022 by MM
|-
|Cleaning calibration switch linear hardware (Disassemble, clean, oil)
|Once yearly, or as required.
|Ace and Technician
| 01/27/2022 by MM
|}

Sewing Machine

2023-10-23T20:26:53Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=The Hub
|Is used in domain=Cloth
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has model=3160QDC
|Has make=Janome
|Has serial number=8H2036666 / 8H2036653
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File:Sewing_machine.png
|Has icondesc=Sewing Machine
|Has iconwname=File:Sewing_machine_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:Sewing_machine_image.png
|Has imagedesc=Janome 3160 QDC
|Has description=(???)
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1264
|Has ace =Gail Dowler;gdowler@georgefox.edu

}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Safety First==
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]
Here are some safety instructions for the {{PAGENAME}}. Remember ... SAFETY FIRST!!!
*'''Sharp Hazard''' – needles are very sharp and can pierce your skin. Turn off the sewing machine when inserting/removing needles to avoid bumping the foot pedal and moving the needle assembly. Never place your fingers directly underneath the needle.
*'''Crush Hazard''' – be aware of all moving parts and keep your fingers away from any pinch points.
*'''Entanglement''' – ensure that loose clothing, long hair, or any other dangling/loose items do not become entangled in the machine. Hair that extends below the collar should be tied up.
*'''Eye Injury''' – needles can break if they hit a solid object while sewing. The broken tip can fly off and become lodged in your eye. Wear safety glasses when using the sewing machines.
*Do not sew over pins. This can break or bend the needle.
*Ensure the needle you are using is undamaged.
*Make sure the needle is installed correctly.
*Verify that you are using the correct presser foot. When changing out the presser foot, manually check that the needle’s travel will clear the foot before using the foot pedal.
*Do not run thick fabrics or many layers of fabric through a standard sewing machine. Use the industrial sewing machine for these applications.
*When you finish using the sewing machine, disconnect the power cable from both the machine and the wall outlet/power strip. Coil the power cable neatly on the table.

==Description==
There are currently four Janome 3160 QDC sewing machines available for use in the Maker Hub. This model features 60 different stitch patterns. It has automatic fabric feeding, one hand needle threader, and easy to follow instructions, making it an ideal machine for first time sewers. Some of its more advanced features include buttons for lock stitch, needle up or down, and automatic thread cutting. It has an add on platform that can be attached to make sewing larger materials a breeze.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oo_xT1Gfg5M}}

==Documentation==

[[Media:Inst-book-3160qdc-en.pdf|Sewing Machine User Manual]]

* [https://www.janome.com/machines/sewing/3160qdc-b/ Product Home Page]

====Terminology====

* Spool - Holder used for thread.
* Bobbin - Cylinder or spindle holder in which thread is wound thread that comes from the bottom
* Presser foot - piece of metal that keeps fabric in place when sewing.

==Training==
All information on these specific machines can be found in the [https://www.janome.com/siteassets/support/manuals/computer-models/inst-book-49360.pdf User Manual] and on the [https://www.janome.com/machines/sewing/3160qdc Product Home Page]

How to set up the machine. This video shows a similar set up process to our machines, but be sure to compare to the manual.
 
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMTzXsyOVoI}}
 
A quick video on basic stitching techniques:
 
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yMoJWSmZI-U}}
 
YouTube is a great resource for learning new things. If you are new to sewing, try watching a few videos to get a general understanding before jumping into sewing.

For more pro tips on sewing visit this website that explains [https://nancysnotions.com/stitch-length-doesnt-have-to-be-confusing/ stitch length].

====Operation====

Winding the bobbin
* Once you picked the type/color of thread spool, first get some of it loose and out and secondly place it on the large spool holder (skinny tub). Then, add the spool cap. It's side will depend on the type/ style of thread spool you picked.
* As you follow the guide images, put the thread around the metal knob (upper thread guide). Then slide the thread through one of the holes in the bobbin and place it in the bobbin winder spindle (small metal tube) that its on the right top of the machine. Slide the bobbin winder shaft over to lock it.
* Hold the thread for couple seconds at the beginning as you press the foot pedal gently and slowly. Once it becomes even or uniform, you can let go of the thread and go faster with the foot pedal.
* Cut the thread once you are done and place the bobbin in the bobbin case. The drop in bobbin is covered by a plastic cover that you can remove by gently pulling the hook cover release button. Drop the bobbin and wrap the thread around a the clip under the plastic cover. Then, put the cover on.
Threading the machine
* Grab onto the thread from the thread spool and run the thread through the knob and going down then up, following the image guide around and make sure it is catching all parts. At the end thread the needle.

====Demonstration====

The demonstration will include several steps. Demonstrate you can safely setup the sewing machine, which includes winding the bobbin, threading the machine, and removing/replacing the needle. Finally, sew a mini pillow.

====General Procedure====
# Wind the bobbin and thread the machine
# Pick two pieces of fabric and turn them right sides together (flip them) because the raw edges will be inside the pillow which will protect them from fraying. Line the two pieces up.
# Sew three sides using a straight stitch.
# As you approach the corner, it's better to shorten the stitch length at the end of each side and stitch off the edge of the fabric. It makes a more durable corner--the bulk can be trimmed out of the corner, too, which makes a cleaner (pointy-er) corner. Press stop and wait until the machine stops. Make sure the needle is down and put the kickstand up. Rotate the piece and then put the kickstand down again and continue. Do the same thing to do the last side and press stop. Wait until the machine stops and you are done. Lift the presser foot to remove the work. Break the thread tails on the thread cutter, or clip with scissors.
# Press seams flat. Turn and press. Turn raw edges to the inside 1/4", and press.
# Stuff. Sew open side shut by stitching with straight stitch close to pressed edges.
(Note: you can use pins to hold things in place, but you need to remove the pins as you stitch. Never sew over pins. It breaks or bends needles, and can mess up the rotation/timing of the bobbin's oscillations.)

==Certification==
Complete The Hub - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/G7CTPX Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
There are many different types of problems you can have while using a sewing machine, but here are a few basic problems.

# The needle thread breaks: Check the threading of the needle as it may not be threaded properly. It is also possible that the needle needs to be changed. Learn this skill from one of the sewing volunteers or aces so that you can perform a needle change when needed.
# The needle breaks: Make sure the needle is installed correctly and is tight. Verify you are using the correct pressure foot.
# Machine does not run smoothly: Verify the hook race and bobbin holder are free from lint.
# Clearing a thread jam: Because the rotation of the bobbin in the bobbin case is pretty sloppy, thread jams can happen fairly frequently. Use the screwdriver keys that came with the sewing machines to open the needle plate (a.k.a. the throat plate) and access the bobbin case.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Keep the sewing machine clean and free from lint. Make sure to reset the space when you are done sewing.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Lubricate mechanisms
|Semester
|Tech
|-
|Clean machine interior
|Monthly
|Tech
|-
|Change the needle
|As Needed
|Users
|}

Sewing Machine

2023-10-23T20:26:03Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=The Hub
|Is used in domain=Cloth
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has model=3160QDC
|Has make=Janome
|Has serial number=8H2036666 / 8H2036653
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File:Sewing_machine.png
|Has icondesc=Sewing Machine
|Has iconwname=File:Sewing_machine_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:Sewing_machine_image.png
|Has imagedesc=Janome 3160 QDC
|Has description=(???)
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1264
|Has ace =Gail Dowler;mgroom19@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Safety First==
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]
Here are some safety instructions for the {{PAGENAME}}. Remember ... SAFETY FIRST!!!
*'''Sharp Hazard''' – needles are very sharp and can pierce your skin. Turn off the sewing machine when inserting/removing needles to avoid bumping the foot pedal and moving the needle assembly. Never place your fingers directly underneath the needle.
*'''Crush Hazard''' – be aware of all moving parts and keep your fingers away from any pinch points.
*'''Entanglement''' – ensure that loose clothing, long hair, or any other dangling/loose items do not become entangled in the machine. Hair that extends below the collar should be tied up.
*'''Eye Injury''' – needles can break if they hit a solid object while sewing. The broken tip can fly off and become lodged in your eye. Wear safety glasses when using the sewing machines.
*Do not sew over pins. This can break or bend the needle.
*Ensure the needle you are using is undamaged.
*Make sure the needle is installed correctly.
*Verify that you are using the correct presser foot. When changing out the presser foot, manually check that the needle’s travel will clear the foot before using the foot pedal.
*Do not run thick fabrics or many layers of fabric through a standard sewing machine. Use the industrial sewing machine for these applications.
*When you finish using the sewing machine, disconnect the power cable from both the machine and the wall outlet/power strip. Coil the power cable neatly on the table.

==Description==
There are currently four Janome 3160 QDC sewing machines available for use in the Maker Hub. This model features 60 different stitch patterns. It has automatic fabric feeding, one hand needle threader, and easy to follow instructions, making it an ideal machine for first time sewers. Some of its more advanced features include buttons for lock stitch, needle up or down, and automatic thread cutting. It has an add on platform that can be attached to make sewing larger materials a breeze.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oo_xT1Gfg5M}}

==Documentation==

[[Media:Inst-book-3160qdc-en.pdf|Sewing Machine User Manual]]

* [https://www.janome.com/machines/sewing/3160qdc-b/ Product Home Page]

====Terminology====

* Spool - Holder used for thread.
* Bobbin - Cylinder or spindle holder in which thread is wound thread that comes from the bottom
* Presser foot - piece of metal that keeps fabric in place when sewing.

==Training==
All information on these specific machines can be found in the [https://www.janome.com/siteassets/support/manuals/computer-models/inst-book-49360.pdf User Manual] and on the [https://www.janome.com/machines/sewing/3160qdc Product Home Page]

How to set up the machine. This video shows a similar set up process to our machines, but be sure to compare to the manual.
 
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMTzXsyOVoI}}
 
A quick video on basic stitching techniques:
 
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yMoJWSmZI-U}}
 
YouTube is a great resource for learning new things. If you are new to sewing, try watching a few videos to get a general understanding before jumping into sewing.

For more pro tips on sewing visit this website that explains [https://nancysnotions.com/stitch-length-doesnt-have-to-be-confusing/ stitch length].

====Operation====

Winding the bobbin
* Once you picked the type/color of thread spool, first get some of it loose and out and secondly place it on the large spool holder (skinny tub). Then, add the spool cap. It's side will depend on the type/ style of thread spool you picked.
* As you follow the guide images, put the thread around the metal knob (upper thread guide). Then slide the thread through one of the holes in the bobbin and place it in the bobbin winder spindle (small metal tube) that its on the right top of the machine. Slide the bobbin winder shaft over to lock it.
* Hold the thread for couple seconds at the beginning as you press the foot pedal gently and slowly. Once it becomes even or uniform, you can let go of the thread and go faster with the foot pedal.
* Cut the thread once you are done and place the bobbin in the bobbin case. The drop in bobbin is covered by a plastic cover that you can remove by gently pulling the hook cover release button. Drop the bobbin and wrap the thread around a the clip under the plastic cover. Then, put the cover on.
Threading the machine
* Grab onto the thread from the thread spool and run the thread through the knob and going down then up, following the image guide around and make sure it is catching all parts. At the end thread the needle.

====Demonstration====

The demonstration will include several steps. Demonstrate you can safely setup the sewing machine, which includes winding the bobbin, threading the machine, and removing/replacing the needle. Finally, sew a mini pillow.

====General Procedure====
# Wind the bobbin and thread the machine
# Pick two pieces of fabric and turn them right sides together (flip them) because the raw edges will be inside the pillow which will protect them from fraying. Line the two pieces up.
# Sew three sides using a straight stitch.
# As you approach the corner, it's better to shorten the stitch length at the end of each side and stitch off the edge of the fabric. It makes a more durable corner--the bulk can be trimmed out of the corner, too, which makes a cleaner (pointy-er) corner. Press stop and wait until the machine stops. Make sure the needle is down and put the kickstand up. Rotate the piece and then put the kickstand down again and continue. Do the same thing to do the last side and press stop. Wait until the machine stops and you are done. Lift the presser foot to remove the work. Break the thread tails on the thread cutter, or clip with scissors.
# Press seams flat. Turn and press. Turn raw edges to the inside 1/4", and press.
# Stuff. Sew open side shut by stitching with straight stitch close to pressed edges.
(Note: you can use pins to hold things in place, but you need to remove the pins as you stitch. Never sew over pins. It breaks or bends needles, and can mess up the rotation/timing of the bobbin's oscillations.)

==Certification==
Complete The Hub - {{PAGENAME}} Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/G7CTPX Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
There are many different types of problems you can have while using a sewing machine, but here are a few basic problems.

# The needle thread breaks: Check the threading of the needle as it may not be threaded properly. It is also possible that the needle needs to be changed. Learn this skill from one of the sewing volunteers or aces so that you can perform a needle change when needed.
# The needle breaks: Make sure the needle is installed correctly and is tight. Verify you are using the correct pressure foot.
# Machine does not run smoothly: Verify the hook race and bobbin holder are free from lint.
# Clearing a thread jam: Because the rotation of the bobbin in the bobbin case is pretty sloppy, thread jams can happen fairly frequently. Use the screwdriver keys that came with the sewing machines to open the needle plate (a.k.a. the throat plate) and access the bobbin case.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Keep the sewing machine clean and free from lint. Make sure to reset the space when you are done sewing.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Lubricate mechanisms
|Semester
|Tech
|-
|Clean machine interior
|Monthly
|Tech
|-
|Change the needle
|As Needed
|Users
|}

Speedy 300

2023-09-18T17:44:47Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is laser cutter equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Trotec
|Has model=156F
|Has serial number=140801D83D63 / 01411-05631 (Air Filter)
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File:laser_cutter_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Laser Engraver Icon
|Has iconwname=File:laser_cutter_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:laser_cutter_image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The Trotec Speedy 300 Laser Engraver
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1223
|Has ace=Emily Hayes;ehayes19@georgefox.edu
}}

[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Trotec Speedy 300 laser engraver is used to engrave and cut materials based on specified images and shapes. This is useful for making enclosures out of acrylic, engraving designs into many materials, creating trophies, and cutting any two dimensional shape out of a variety of materials. It also has a rotary attachment which enables cylindrical objects such as drinking glasses and hydro flasks to be engraved with detailed designs.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qF8dHQPy6o}}[[File:Hydrowiki.jpg|thumb|400x400px|none|Example of an engraved Hydroflask. ]]

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

*Inkscape - The program you will be using to design is Inkscape. It allows you to type in words, edit logos, make your own logos and such to engrave or cut out of your material.
*Job Control - The program that interacts with the laser cutter to perform a cut. Job Control lets you set up/create Material Profiles, change between the HoneyComb Table and the Rotary tool (mostly used for Hydroflasks), and choose a location to cut on your material.

*Focusing tool - Used to focus the laser cutter.

*Stroke - This is the type of line that should be used when cutting.

*Repeat Cut Line - Can be used in JobControl to reproduce the same cut line that was just cut.
*Outline Job - Can be used in JobControl to trace the job that is going to be cut to show where job extends.
*Bitmap - Representation of an image as bits of information (pixels); used to allow logos/stencils to be changed into colors.
*Vector - Representation of an image as shapes, rather than bits; used to allow logos/stencils to be modified as objects.
*Trace Bitmap - Can be used on a bitmap to to turn it into a vector.
*Honeycomb Table - This is the honeycomb shaped metal tray that holds flat material during a cut. It is used for most cut jobs.
*Rotary Tool - When engraving water bottles or glasses, this accessory is used to hold the object in place as well as rotate it while performing a cut.

====Material Settings====

* '''[[Media:LICENSE KEY S3-4397.pdf|License Key Information]]'''
* '''[[Media:TrotecMaterials 2022.09.08 10.40.55.xml|Speedy 300 Material Settings 8 SEP 2022]]

====User Manual====

* '''[[Media:JobControl-Manual-EN.pdf|Job Control Operation Manual]]'''
* '''[[Media:8011-speedy300-manual-en.pdf|Speedy 300 Operation Manual]]'''

==Training==
====Operation====

Performing a cut or engrave with the laser will always begin with Inkscape by opening/importing an image, pdf, DXF, or similar file. If you do not have a file yet then it can also be used to create geometries. When you use SolidWorks to generate a .dxf file the correct face must be selected prior to saving the file. Once a file has been brought into Inkscape, it must be adjusted so that job control can distinguish between what should be cut out of the material and what should be engraved. A cut is indicated by a hairline red stroke (in the RGB color scheme) and an engrave is indicated by the color black. After the graphic is prepared, it is transferred to job control using [File] > [Print] and making sure trotec is selected as the device. It will then pop up in the job list on the right hand side of JobControl. At this point the laser cutter should be set up by turning it on, placing the material on the honeycomb table, and then raising the table to focus the laser. The final steps are then to click the USB icon in job control to connect to the laser cutter, drag the job onto the to scale honeycomb table, set the correct material properties, and then click the play button to perform the cut/engrave. When performing an engrave on a cylindrical object, the set up process in Inkscape is the same but there are a few differences in job control and laser cutter itself. Primarily, the honeycomb table must be exchanged for the rotary tool, which must be done while the laser cutter is OFF. The laser cutter should automatically recognize that the rotary is attached. The only change in job control is that the accessory should be changed in the settings from the honeycomb table to the rotary tool.
 
 
A Training Venture (TV) that uses the Laser Cutter is the [[Windchimes]]

====Demonstration====

First, import a George Fox logo into Inkscape and set it up so that the logo is an engrave with a cut circle surrounding it. Once this is done, print the job to job control and run the job on a piece of scrap material.

====General Procedure====
[[File:trotec_laser_engraving.mp4|thumb|none|400px|This video shows the complete process of completing an engrave. See below for details on doing this. ]]

#'''Setting up a Job'''
##First off, open a new document in Inkscape on your own machine or one of the lab computers (File > New, or Ctrl + N). Next, you’ll want to set the dimensions of your page by going to [File] > [Document Properties] (Ctrl + Shift + D). Your page can be as big as you like, as long as it’s larger than the shape you’re working with. However, always '''make sure that the document is square.''' There’s some weird quirk with the software that makes this necessary, keeping the document square will keep you from running into a lot of problems later on. Under the “Custom Size” section in document properties, set your hight and width to something larger than the longest dimension of your object. When you export the shape to the laser cutter, Inkscape will export anything within the document canvas and ignore anything that extends beyond it’s borders.
##Now you’re ready to create a shape to be cut or engraved. a.) If you’re importing a shape from SolidWorks, the file should be saved as a .DXF file. Simply drag the file onto your Inkscape document or import it via [File] > [Import] (Ctrl + I). If prompted to select scaling options, choose “read from file” and click OK. Next, select the object and go to [Object] > [Ungroup] (Ctrl + Shift + G). This will allow you to select the text objects that make up the SolidWorks watermark and delete them. While you’re here, make sure that there is only one copy of each line, as SolidWorks often likes to make duplicates. Finally, you may want to select all of the remaining objects and regroup them with [Object] > [Group] (Ctrl + G). Skip to step 5. b.) If you want to cut or engrave from an image, the best way to do so is from a vector image file. Vector graphics files store the lines, shapes, and colors that make up an image rather than storing data based on pixels as in a typical raster image. These lines, shapes, and colors is what the laser cutter interprets when cutting and engraving. If you’ve designed something in Adobe Illustrator, Inkscape, or other vector-based drawing applications, you can save your image directly to this format. If you’re looking for images online, search for vector images. These will most commonly be in the format of .SVG, .EPS, and some types of .PDF. You can import these types of images into your Inkscape document by simply dragging them onto the canvas or importing them via [File] > [Import] (Ctrl + I). Skip to step 5. c.) If you want to engrave or cut a raster (pixel-based) image, you will need to convert it to a vector shape. Drag your image onto the Inkscape canvas and proceed to step 3. [[File:...gfuLogo.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Inkscape can convert an image into vectors based on the composition of the source image. To do this, select your image, right click, and select Trace Bitmap, (Alt + Shift + B). You will be given several options shown below. Check the “Live Preview” box which will give you a better idea what’s going to happen. For the George Fox logo, we want to separate the colors from each other, so we’ll select “Colors” under the “Multiple Scans” section. The number of scans you specify correlates to the number of objects that Inkscape will create based on the different parts of the image. Since our example is a simple logo with 3 colors, 3 scans will be sufficient. Depending on your image, you’ll have to play around with these settings a bit. For a back and white image, you’ll probably want to use “Brightness Cuttoff” under “Single Scan” and adjust the “Threshold” value until the preview looks correct. Once you click OK, the vector will appear directly on top of the original image, so make sure to drag it off and move or delete the original image. [[File:...traceBitmap.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##You will now have a vector object that consists of several parts. Separate them by right-clicking the vector and selecting “Ungroup” (Ctrl + Shift + G). Now you’ll be able to alter each part of the object. In our example, we’ll go with the one on the right and delete the one on the left. [[File:...separateParts.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Now we can manipulate the colors. Select the object and go to [Object] > [Fill and Stroke] (usually it will already be open on the right sidebar). You will see Fill, Stroke Paint, and Stroke Style on the top right. Fill changes the color of a piece, Stroke Paint changes the color of a stroke, and Stroke Style changes the thickness and style of a stroke. You will see values for R, G, and B, which control color. When each color has a 0 next to it, it will be fully black. When the red has a 255 next to it and the others have 0, it will be fully red. The machine will cut material ONLY when it sees a stroke that is 255, 0, 0, and it will engrave material ONLY when it sees 0, 0, 0. Set these values on your object depending on what you want to engrave or cut, and make sure these values are exact before continuing. Anything that you do not want to cut or engrave, either delete or set to white, which is 255, 255, 255. Be sure to make each a “Flat Color” so that the color is constant throughout the entire object.
##Now that you have an object with the correct fill and stroke, you’ll want to resize it to the size you want. Select your object, and in the top bar of Inkscape you’ll see options for height and width. If you want to scale the object without altering it’s height and width ratios, lock the two together by clicking the lock icon. Measure your material and set the height and width accordingly, or set the values to your desired size. If you imported your file from SolidWorks you shouldn’t need to change these dimensions, just verify that they match the size of your object in SolidWorks. [[File:...Stroke.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Once you have finished your design, it’s time to send it to the Laser Cutter! Go to [File] > [Print] (Ctrl + P) and make sure it is sending to Trotec Engraver but do not click [OK] yet.
##Select [Preferences] to open the engraver properties. Check both “Take From Application” and “Minimize to Jobsize.” These settings tell the program to assume the canvas is the same size as it is in Inkscape and then crop to the size of your print. Also verify “Image Mode” is set to “Color” and “Enhanced Geometries” is not selected. '''NOTE''': “Take From Application” will only work if your Inkscape canvas is square. Make sure to set this correctly, or else set the print size to something larger than either dimension of your print (so long as “Minimize to Jobsize” is enabled.)[[File:...printing.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Save these settings by selecting the button that shows the JC logo near the bottom of the Printing Preferences and select Print to send the design to Job Control.
#'''Setting up the Laser Cutter'''
##Turn on the machine using the power switch located on the back of the machine in the left corner. The machine will go through a startup procedure where the cutting bed lowers and the laser travels to its home position. Note that the lid must be closed for the startup procedure to begin. You will hear be some beeping coming from the machine.
##Place your material onto the honeycomb table. '''ALWAYS''' place it in a corner, snug against two sides of the bed. This way if something doesn't go quite perfectly in the cutting process you can return the material back to that corner and try again without having to scrap the entire piece.
##Now it’s time to focus the laser onto your material. Begin by moving the laser head over the middle of your material. Place the focusing tool on the laser head and slowly raise the table until the the focusing tool just barely touches the material. Be sure to raise the bed extra slowly when approaching the focusing tool, so that you can stop the moment you are at the correct height. Use cation, as there is also no safety in place to prevent the material from crashing into the head and damaging this delicate, expensive assembly. The focusing tool will likely fall off the head; this is fine so long as you didn’t overshoot the point at which it first touched. Reference the images below for proper focusing tool placement and laser head controls.[[File:Laser Focus Tool.png|none|thumb|404x404px| Proper placement of the focusing tool. ]][[File:Laser Controls.png|none|thumb|296x296px| Laser control pad. (1) Raise and lower the bed. (2) Move the laser head (5) Air assist. Make sure it is always on to vent fumes properly. ]]
##Remove the focusing tool and return it to its home.
##Press the USB icon found in the bottom right corner of Job Control to connect to the laser cutter. The laser should beep a few times and then a the background of job control will change to a honeycomb pattern to represent the actual honeycomb table. Also, the USB icon will change to a play icon.
#'''Cutting with Job Control'''
##After you send your design to Job Control your design will be named with the name of your Inkscape file, which will appear in the “Jobs” window on the right. If you do not see your job (your design), be sure to select [See All] at the bottom of that window. This lets you see files ALL dpi types, rather than just a specific dpi type. You can check the print preview by double clicking the box showing your preview in the bottom right.
##Using the arrow keys on the laser cutter, move the head until the laser pointer is positioned on your material where you want a corner of your cut to begin. You’ll notice (assuming that you’ve connected the laser cutter to Job Control) that the curser moves within Job Control as you move the laser head.
##Double click/drag your job onto the honeycomb area and position it relative to the cursor. You’ll notice that the corners of your job will snap to the cursor.
##Move the laser head/cursor around to make sure your job fits onto the material you are using. Move the cursor to the opposite, diagonal corner from the one you started from and make sure that the laser head is not off an edge of the material.
##Then select your material at the top left. There are two dropdown menus, one for general material groups, and one for specific material profiles. These settings control the laser’s speed and power which are fine tuned for the material you select. [[File:Mitch5.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##To see the duration of the job, you can click the Update in the bottom left. You are ready to click the Play button in the bottom right. For bigger jobs, the Laser Cutter will take a little bit of time to read the design. If it does not start immediately, don’t be scared. Just be supportive and it will begin shortly. If it does not start at all, ask for help from the supervisor.
##Once the job starts, stay with it. Be sure it is actually engraving/cutting the material. Don’t open the lid (or even lean on it) as this causes the job to cancel without the ability to resume it. If the lasercutter is not doing what it should be click pause in the bottom right of Job Control, or stop it entirely with the stop button. Consult the supervisor for assistance. If something has gone very wrong, lifting the lid will immediately stop the machine, though this is not recommended under normal circumstances.[[File:Mitch6.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##After the job is completed reset the space by cleaning out any scrap materials from the bed and deleting the job from job control and Inkscape.
#'''Cutting with the Rotary Tool'''
##The Rotary Tool lets you cut and engrave cylindrical objects, the most popular of these being Hydroflasks. This part applies after you have already sent the file from Inkscape to the Laser Cutter.
##Turn OFF the machine, remove the honeycomb table, and plug in the rotary tool. The rest of the laser cutter setup is the same as above.
##To start off, go to Settings → Options → Hardware → Accessories. This is where you can switch from the HoneyComb Table to the Rotary Tool and vice versa.
##Enter the diameter of your bottle (using the Calipers in the lab), as it tells the Rotary Tool how fast to turn as it engraves. Do not mess this up, or you will have a stretched/squeezed image. [[File:Rotary 1.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##Once you click OK/apply, the window background will look like the image below.
##Double click/drag the job onto the window. It should automatically flip the image so that it will engrave in the proper orientation even though the bottle is held horizontally. [[File:Rotary2.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##Next, pick the material Hydroflask → Black Mug for a Hydroflask, or one of the glass profiles if engraving glass, and now you are ready to engrave your thing!
##When you are finished, RESET THE SPACE! Put the Rotary Tool away and replace it with the HoneyComb Table.

==Safety==

*Always make sure the material you are using is safe to use. There is an especially high risk when engraving plastics. Fumes from plastics can be toxic. Make sure you find the specific material you are using and check to see if it produces toxic fumes when burned. Never attempt to engrave PVC as it produces chlorine gas (the stuff they used in WWI).
*Once the laser is focused do not touch the button that raises the bed or the laser will crash into the machine which causes damage to the machine.
*Be careful when moving the laser head when using the rotary tool because it has protruding parts that will harm the laser cutter if a crash occurs.
*Keep an eye on active cuts because fires can be started when cutting wood or acrylic with paper covering.
*If you feel unsure about anything located in the laser cutting procedure make sure to consult the supervisor for assistance.

==Cut List==
===Approved Materials===
* Acrylic
* Wood
* Vegetable tanned leather

===DO NOT CUT===
* Any plastics containing PVC (polyvinyl chloride)
* Chrome tanned leather
* Hardboard (Masonite)

If you want to cut a material not listed here, please talk with the Maker Hub staff.

==Certification==
Complete the Prototype Lab - Laser Cutters (Speedy 300/400) Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}} (this module satisfies requirements for both the Speedy 300 and the Speedy 400). The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/G7CTPX Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
'''First of all, check your export settings'''

*There are multiple combinations of settings that will work for export; which means that depending on who was using the machine last, settings may be different. These are the settings I (the ace) have found to work most consistently: Set your Inkscape document to square by going to [File] > [Document Properties] ( Ctl+Shift+D) and set both the Height and Width fields to the same value, bigger than your shape. Why this is an issue is yet unknown, Inkscape just doesn’t like exporting non-square documents with the other settings to follow. Print the document with File > Print or Ctl+P. Click preferences and check both “Take From Application” and “Minimize to Jobsize.” These settings tell the program to assume the canvas is the same size as Inkscape and then crop to the size of your print. Also verify “image mode” is set to “color.” These settings will fix most common issues.

'''Cuts are not being made'''

*Some export settings may be incorrect. Verify that your settings are set to those described above. These settings will fix most issues of lines not cutting.
*Verify that all stokes are set to red with a stroke width between 1pt and .25pt (.25pt recommended)
*Verify that your print is entirely within the canvas of Inkscape.
*In Preferences, within Print options, verify “image mode” is set to “color.” Otherwise, your red stokes will not be read as color, and not be seen by the laser cutter.

'''The cuts did not go all the way through the material'''

*Are you using the correct material profile? If not, reset the job (described below) and repeat the cut with the correct material profile. If it appears that the cut went partway through the material you may want to use a setting that is less powerful than your material would normally use (again, described below)
*You should always place your material in a corner. This way, if the cuts do not go all the way through you can reposition it easily. DO NOT MOVE THE JOB in JobControl! If you put the material in a corner, should be able to place the material back where it was, and then reset the job in JobControl by right clicking on the job in JobControl and selecting the reset job option, or by pressing Ctl+R. Next, run the cut again on the smallest thickness setting for your material. For example, if you are cutting 1/4 inch acrylic and it does not cut all the way through, repeat the cut with the 1/8 inch acrylic setting.
*If you are using the correct material profile for your material and cuts are not going all the way through, please email me and let me know so that I can take a look and fix the settings. ZCogswell18@georgefox.edu

'''The laser went really fast leaving a sort of light engrave rather than a cut'''

*You did not select the correct material, and the job ran with the ‘standard’ setting. '''DO NOT MOVE THE MATERIAL!''' You can reset the job by right clicking on the job in Job Control and selecting the reset job option, or by pressing Ctl+R. Then, select the correct material in the upper left dropdown menu and run the job again. This way you do not need to reposition the material or job, which you will almost never do perfectly.

'''The laser repeated the cut multiple times'''

*Some material profiles, such as half-inch, acrylic are set to repeat the cut line multiple times, as to get a cleaner product. If the cuts look good, this is normal.
*Are you importing from SolidWorks? For some reason, SolidWorks likes to have duplicate lines quite often. In Inkscape, click on the cut that was repeated and drag to move it. If you move the line and another line is underneath, you need to delete all duplicates in the file. Often if you have a thin stoke (.25pt) and zoom out, the duplicate lines will be visually darker, allowing you to identify and delete them.

'''The acrylic is melted or blackened'''

*Verify that you are using the correct material profile. If you are, for example, cutting 1/4 acrylic with the 1/2 setting, the acrylic will be melted and not give clean cuts.
*Are you importing from SolidWorks? As mentioned above, “''For some reason, SolidWorks likes to have duplicate lines quite often. In Inkscape, click on the cut that was repeated and drag to move it. If you move the line and another line is underneath, you need to delete all duplicates in the file. Often if you have a thin stoke (.25pt) and zoom out, the duplicate lines will be visually darker, allowing you to identify and delete them.”''

'''Cuts are not clean'''

*Is the machine focused properly for your material? If you’re not sure, or even if you are (you may have bumped the bed control buttons accidentally) refocus it.
*Check the lens for dust because this can interfere with the laser. If it is dirty, see the maintenance section on how to clean it.

'''The material is being cut in unintended places'''

*Check your Inkscape file and make sure there are no red stokes in places you did not want
*Make sure there are no other jobs on the work area (grey rectangles in the honeycomb area of JobControl). If there are, drag them back into the list on the right side or delete them

'''Inkscape is not printing to JobControl'''

* If the status on the print window (in the "Select Printer" section, just below the printer options) says "Error" instead of "Ready," try the following:
** Start → Settings → Devices → Printers & scanners → Trotec Engraver v10.5.0 → Open queue → Printer → Cancel All Documents
*** Deleting all of the items from the queue will also work
* If the above does not work, contact the lab supervisors or Justin.

*

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

To keep the laser cutter running and cutting smoothly, the mirror and lens should be periodically cleaned. This is on top of the general cleaning that should be done to keep the machine dust and scrap free. There are also filters in the exhaust system that must be changed once the activated carbon has been used up.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Done
|-
|1
|General cleaning
|As needed after a cut
|Student
|N/A
|-
|2
|Clean the Mirror
|As needed
|Volunteer
|
|-
|3
|Clean the Lens
|As needed
|Volunteer
|
|-
|4
|Change Filters
|When filter usage reaches 100%
|Ace
|
|}

#The honeycomb should be removed and the metal bed itself should be should be swept/cleaned more or less daily. Cleaners are available to help in this process. Green is general cleaning use this for the bed and metal surfaces. Blue is glass cleaner, use this for the plexiglass surfaces. The front door of the Speedy 300 may be removed using the spring loaded pin on the right to remove cut pieces stuck in the door. The air vents at the rear of the machine should be kept clean of debris. Clean in a manner similar to the bed.
#The lense, mirror, and cone should be inspected daily or more often as needed, especially after wood or other “dusty”/”smokey” materials are cut. The lense will need cleaning when particles are visible on the surface (hold up to light if need be). The lense may be removed using the threaded nut below the lense (see photo). The lense should be cleaned with the lense paper and cleaner available in the kit (lasercutter drawer) on both sides. Put some cleaner on the lense and gently rub the paper over the surface of the lense. The cone itself threads into the assembly below the lense nut. The cone may be cleaned with a paper towel and water or another cleaning agent. The mirror should be inspected and cleaned in the same manner as the lense.
#See above.
#The air filter to the right of the Speedy 300 will occasionally need maintenance. The most common issue is a full pre-filter (P/N 37722). This will be indicated on the filter itself by poor airflow/suction. When replacing this, use a face mask and gloves (close the lab when doing this). Open the top of the air filter with the large 10mm hex wrench in the kit. Remove the prefilter and place it in a bag for disposal. Insert a new prefilter and close the lid. Pre-filters are used to increase the lifespan of other, harder to replace and more expensive filters in the system. Less often, other filters will need replacing. These include the larger box filter (P/N 41041), additional pre-filter-type mat filters, and activated carbon. This should not need to happen as often. Follow the above procedure for pre-filter and the [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJkCgAVbAEU&feature=youtu.be video] to replace the full filter setup. Be careful not to spill activate carbon if doing a full replacement, it is difficult to clean up.

Speedy 300

2023-09-18T17:42:11Z

Justinj:

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|Has ace= Emily Hayes;ehayes19@georgefox.edu
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__TOC__

==Description==

The Trotec Speedy 300 laser engraver is used to engrave and cut materials based on specified images and shapes. This is useful for making enclosures out of acrylic, engraving designs into many materials, creating trophies, and cutting any two dimensional shape out of a variety of materials. It also has a rotary attachment which enables cylindrical objects such as drinking glasses and hydro flasks to be engraved with detailed designs.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qF8dHQPy6o}}[[File:Hydrowiki.jpg|thumb|400x400px|none|Example of an engraved Hydroflask. ]]

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

*Inkscape - The program you will be using to design is Inkscape. It allows you to type in words, edit logos, make your own logos and such to engrave or cut out of your material.
*Job Control - The program that interacts with the laser cutter to perform a cut. Job Control lets you set up/create Material Profiles, change between the HoneyComb Table and the Rotary tool (mostly used for Hydroflasks), and choose a location to cut on your material.

*Focusing tool - Used to focus the laser cutter.

*Stroke - This is the type of line that should be used when cutting.

*Repeat Cut Line - Can be used in JobControl to reproduce the same cut line that was just cut.
*Outline Job - Can be used in JobControl to trace the job that is going to be cut to show where job extends.
*Bitmap - Representation of an image as bits of information (pixels); used to allow logos/stencils to be changed into colors.
*Vector - Representation of an image as shapes, rather than bits; used to allow logos/stencils to be modified as objects.
*Trace Bitmap - Can be used on a bitmap to to turn it into a vector.
*Honeycomb Table - This is the honeycomb shaped metal tray that holds flat material during a cut. It is used for most cut jobs.
*Rotary Tool - When engraving water bottles or glasses, this accessory is used to hold the object in place as well as rotate it while performing a cut.

====Material Settings====

* '''[[Media:LICENSE KEY S3-4397.pdf|License Key Information]]'''
* '''[[Media:TrotecMaterials 2022.09.08 10.40.55.xml|Speedy 300 Material Settings 8 SEP 2022]]

====User Manual====

* '''[[Media:JobControl-Manual-EN.pdf|Job Control Operation Manual]]'''
* '''[[Media:8011-speedy300-manual-en.pdf|Speedy 300 Operation Manual]]'''

==Training==
====Operation====

Performing a cut or engrave with the laser will always begin with Inkscape by opening/importing an image, pdf, DXF, or similar file. If you do not have a file yet then it can also be used to create geometries. When you use SolidWorks to generate a .dxf file the correct face must be selected prior to saving the file. Once a file has been brought into Inkscape, it must be adjusted so that job control can distinguish between what should be cut out of the material and what should be engraved. A cut is indicated by a hairline red stroke (in the RGB color scheme) and an engrave is indicated by the color black. After the graphic is prepared, it is transferred to job control using [File] > [Print] and making sure trotec is selected as the device. It will then pop up in the job list on the right hand side of JobControl. At this point the laser cutter should be set up by turning it on, placing the material on the honeycomb table, and then raising the table to focus the laser. The final steps are then to click the USB icon in job control to connect to the laser cutter, drag the job onto the to scale honeycomb table, set the correct material properties, and then click the play button to perform the cut/engrave. When performing an engrave on a cylindrical object, the set up process in Inkscape is the same but there are a few differences in job control and laser cutter itself. Primarily, the honeycomb table must be exchanged for the rotary tool, which must be done while the laser cutter is OFF. The laser cutter should automatically recognize that the rotary is attached. The only change in job control is that the accessory should be changed in the settings from the honeycomb table to the rotary tool.
 
 
A Training Venture (TV) that uses the Laser Cutter is the [[Windchimes]]

====Demonstration====

First, import a George Fox logo into Inkscape and set it up so that the logo is an engrave with a cut circle surrounding it. Once this is done, print the job to job control and run the job on a piece of scrap material.

====General Procedure====
[[File:trotec_laser_engraving.mp4|thumb|none|400px|This video shows the complete process of completing an engrave. See below for details on doing this. ]]

#'''Setting up a Job'''
##First off, open a new document in Inkscape on your own machine or one of the lab computers (File > New, or Ctrl + N). Next, you’ll want to set the dimensions of your page by going to [File] > [Document Properties] (Ctrl + Shift + D). Your page can be as big as you like, as long as it’s larger than the shape you’re working with. However, always '''make sure that the document is square.''' There’s some weird quirk with the software that makes this necessary, keeping the document square will keep you from running into a lot of problems later on. Under the “Custom Size” section in document properties, set your hight and width to something larger than the longest dimension of your object. When you export the shape to the laser cutter, Inkscape will export anything within the document canvas and ignore anything that extends beyond it’s borders.
##Now you’re ready to create a shape to be cut or engraved. a.) If you’re importing a shape from SolidWorks, the file should be saved as a .DXF file. Simply drag the file onto your Inkscape document or import it via [File] > [Import] (Ctrl + I). If prompted to select scaling options, choose “read from file” and click OK. Next, select the object and go to [Object] > [Ungroup] (Ctrl + Shift + G). This will allow you to select the text objects that make up the SolidWorks watermark and delete them. While you’re here, make sure that there is only one copy of each line, as SolidWorks often likes to make duplicates. Finally, you may want to select all of the remaining objects and regroup them with [Object] > [Group] (Ctrl + G). Skip to step 5. b.) If you want to cut or engrave from an image, the best way to do so is from a vector image file. Vector graphics files store the lines, shapes, and colors that make up an image rather than storing data based on pixels as in a typical raster image. These lines, shapes, and colors is what the laser cutter interprets when cutting and engraving. If you’ve designed something in Adobe Illustrator, Inkscape, or other vector-based drawing applications, you can save your image directly to this format. If you’re looking for images online, search for vector images. These will most commonly be in the format of .SVG, .EPS, and some types of .PDF. You can import these types of images into your Inkscape document by simply dragging them onto the canvas or importing them via [File] > [Import] (Ctrl + I). Skip to step 5. c.) If you want to engrave or cut a raster (pixel-based) image, you will need to convert it to a vector shape. Drag your image onto the Inkscape canvas and proceed to step 3. [[File:...gfuLogo.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Inkscape can convert an image into vectors based on the composition of the source image. To do this, select your image, right click, and select Trace Bitmap, (Alt + Shift + B). You will be given several options shown below. Check the “Live Preview” box which will give you a better idea what’s going to happen. For the George Fox logo, we want to separate the colors from each other, so we’ll select “Colors” under the “Multiple Scans” section. The number of scans you specify correlates to the number of objects that Inkscape will create based on the different parts of the image. Since our example is a simple logo with 3 colors, 3 scans will be sufficient. Depending on your image, you’ll have to play around with these settings a bit. For a back and white image, you’ll probably want to use “Brightness Cuttoff” under “Single Scan” and adjust the “Threshold” value until the preview looks correct. Once you click OK, the vector will appear directly on top of the original image, so make sure to drag it off and move or delete the original image. [[File:...traceBitmap.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##You will now have a vector object that consists of several parts. Separate them by right-clicking the vector and selecting “Ungroup” (Ctrl + Shift + G). Now you’ll be able to alter each part of the object. In our example, we’ll go with the one on the right and delete the one on the left. [[File:...separateParts.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Now we can manipulate the colors. Select the object and go to [Object] > [Fill and Stroke] (usually it will already be open on the right sidebar). You will see Fill, Stroke Paint, and Stroke Style on the top right. Fill changes the color of a piece, Stroke Paint changes the color of a stroke, and Stroke Style changes the thickness and style of a stroke. You will see values for R, G, and B, which control color. When each color has a 0 next to it, it will be fully black. When the red has a 255 next to it and the others have 0, it will be fully red. The machine will cut material ONLY when it sees a stroke that is 255, 0, 0, and it will engrave material ONLY when it sees 0, 0, 0. Set these values on your object depending on what you want to engrave or cut, and make sure these values are exact before continuing. Anything that you do not want to cut or engrave, either delete or set to white, which is 255, 255, 255. Be sure to make each a “Flat Color” so that the color is constant throughout the entire object.
##Now that you have an object with the correct fill and stroke, you’ll want to resize it to the size you want. Select your object, and in the top bar of Inkscape you’ll see options for height and width. If you want to scale the object without altering it’s height and width ratios, lock the two together by clicking the lock icon. Measure your material and set the height and width accordingly, or set the values to your desired size. If you imported your file from SolidWorks you shouldn’t need to change these dimensions, just verify that they match the size of your object in SolidWorks. [[File:...Stroke.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Once you have finished your design, it’s time to send it to the Laser Cutter! Go to [File] > [Print] (Ctrl + P) and make sure it is sending to Trotec Engraver but do not click [OK] yet.
##Select [Preferences] to open the engraver properties. Check both “Take From Application” and “Minimize to Jobsize.” These settings tell the program to assume the canvas is the same size as it is in Inkscape and then crop to the size of your print. Also verify “Image Mode” is set to “Color” and “Enhanced Geometries” is not selected. '''NOTE''': “Take From Application” will only work if your Inkscape canvas is square. Make sure to set this correctly, or else set the print size to something larger than either dimension of your print (so long as “Minimize to Jobsize” is enabled.)[[File:...printing.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Save these settings by selecting the button that shows the JC logo near the bottom of the Printing Preferences and select Print to send the design to Job Control.
#'''Setting up the Laser Cutter'''
##Turn on the machine using the power switch located on the back of the machine in the left corner. The machine will go through a startup procedure where the cutting bed lowers and the laser travels to its home position. Note that the lid must be closed for the startup procedure to begin. You will hear be some beeping coming from the machine.
##Place your material onto the honeycomb table. '''ALWAYS''' place it in a corner, snug against two sides of the bed. This way if something doesn't go quite perfectly in the cutting process you can return the material back to that corner and try again without having to scrap the entire piece.
##Now it’s time to focus the laser onto your material. Begin by moving the laser head over the middle of your material. Place the focusing tool on the laser head and slowly raise the table until the the focusing tool just barely touches the material. Be sure to raise the bed extra slowly when approaching the focusing tool, so that you can stop the moment you are at the correct height. Use cation, as there is also no safety in place to prevent the material from crashing into the head and damaging this delicate, expensive assembly. The focusing tool will likely fall off the head; this is fine so long as you didn’t overshoot the point at which it first touched. Reference the images below for proper focusing tool placement and laser head controls.[[File:Laser Focus Tool.png|none|thumb|404x404px| Proper placement of the focusing tool. ]][[File:Laser Controls.png|none|thumb|296x296px| Laser control pad. (1) Raise and lower the bed. (2) Move the laser head (5) Air assist. Make sure it is always on to vent fumes properly. ]]
##Remove the focusing tool and return it to its home.
##Press the USB icon found in the bottom right corner of Job Control to connect to the laser cutter. The laser should beep a few times and then a the background of job control will change to a honeycomb pattern to represent the actual honeycomb table. Also, the USB icon will change to a play icon.
#'''Cutting with Job Control'''
##After you send your design to Job Control your design will be named with the name of your Inkscape file, which will appear in the “Jobs” window on the right. If you do not see your job (your design), be sure to select [See All] at the bottom of that window. This lets you see files ALL dpi types, rather than just a specific dpi type. You can check the print preview by double clicking the box showing your preview in the bottom right.
##Using the arrow keys on the laser cutter, move the head until the laser pointer is positioned on your material where you want a corner of your cut to begin. You’ll notice (assuming that you’ve connected the laser cutter to Job Control) that the curser moves within Job Control as you move the laser head.
##Double click/drag your job onto the honeycomb area and position it relative to the cursor. You’ll notice that the corners of your job will snap to the cursor.
##Move the laser head/cursor around to make sure your job fits onto the material you are using. Move the cursor to the opposite, diagonal corner from the one you started from and make sure that the laser head is not off an edge of the material.
##Then select your material at the top left. There are two dropdown menus, one for general material groups, and one for specific material profiles. These settings control the laser’s speed and power which are fine tuned for the material you select. [[File:Mitch5.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##To see the duration of the job, you can click the Update in the bottom left. You are ready to click the Play button in the bottom right. For bigger jobs, the Laser Cutter will take a little bit of time to read the design. If it does not start immediately, don’t be scared. Just be supportive and it will begin shortly. If it does not start at all, ask for help from the supervisor.
##Once the job starts, stay with it. Be sure it is actually engraving/cutting the material. Don’t open the lid (or even lean on it) as this causes the job to cancel without the ability to resume it. If the lasercutter is not doing what it should be click pause in the bottom right of Job Control, or stop it entirely with the stop button. Consult the supervisor for assistance. If something has gone very wrong, lifting the lid will immediately stop the machine, though this is not recommended under normal circumstances.[[File:Mitch6.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##After the job is completed reset the space by cleaning out any scrap materials from the bed and deleting the job from job control and Inkscape.
#'''Cutting with the Rotary Tool'''
##The Rotary Tool lets you cut and engrave cylindrical objects, the most popular of these being Hydroflasks. This part applies after you have already sent the file from Inkscape to the Laser Cutter.
##Turn OFF the machine, remove the honeycomb table, and plug in the rotary tool. The rest of the laser cutter setup is the same as above.
##To start off, go to Settings → Options → Hardware → Accessories. This is where you can switch from the HoneyComb Table to the Rotary Tool and vice versa.
##Enter the diameter of your bottle (using the Calipers in the lab), as it tells the Rotary Tool how fast to turn as it engraves. Do not mess this up, or you will have a stretched/squeezed image. [[File:Rotary 1.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##Once you click OK/apply, the window background will look like the image below.
##Double click/drag the job onto the window. It should automatically flip the image so that it will engrave in the proper orientation even though the bottle is held horizontally. [[File:Rotary2.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##Next, pick the material Hydroflask → Black Mug for a Hydroflask, or one of the glass profiles if engraving glass, and now you are ready to engrave your thing!
##When you are finished, RESET THE SPACE! Put the Rotary Tool away and replace it with the HoneyComb Table.

==Safety==

*Always make sure the material you are using is safe to use. There is an especially high risk when engraving plastics. Fumes from plastics can be toxic. Make sure you find the specific material you are using and check to see if it produces toxic fumes when burned. Never attempt to engrave PVC as it produces chlorine gas (the stuff they used in WWI).
*Once the laser is focused do not touch the button that raises the bed or the laser will crash into the machine which causes damage to the machine.
*Be careful when moving the laser head when using the rotary tool because it has protruding parts that will harm the laser cutter if a crash occurs.
*Keep an eye on active cuts because fires can be started when cutting wood or acrylic with paper covering.
*If you feel unsure about anything located in the laser cutting procedure make sure to consult the supervisor for assistance.

==Cut List==
===Approved Materials===
* Acrylic
* Wood
* Vegetable tanned leather

===DO NOT CUT===
* Any plastics containing PVC (polyvinyl chloride)
* Chrome tanned leather
* Hardboard (Masonite)

If you want to cut a material not listed here, please talk with the Maker Hub staff.

==Certification==
Complete the Prototype Lab - Laser Cutters (Speedy 300/400) Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}} (this module satisfies requirements for both the Speedy 300 and the Speedy 400). The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/G7CTPX Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
'''First of all, check your export settings'''

*There are multiple combinations of settings that will work for export; which means that depending on who was using the machine last, settings may be different. These are the settings I (the ace) have found to work most consistently: Set your Inkscape document to square by going to [File] > [Document Properties] ( Ctl+Shift+D) and set both the Height and Width fields to the same value, bigger than your shape. Why this is an issue is yet unknown, Inkscape just doesn’t like exporting non-square documents with the other settings to follow. Print the document with File > Print or Ctl+P. Click preferences and check both “Take From Application” and “Minimize to Jobsize.” These settings tell the program to assume the canvas is the same size as Inkscape and then crop to the size of your print. Also verify “image mode” is set to “color.” These settings will fix most common issues.

'''Cuts are not being made'''

*Some export settings may be incorrect. Verify that your settings are set to those described above. These settings will fix most issues of lines not cutting.
*Verify that all stokes are set to red with a stroke width between 1pt and .25pt (.25pt recommended)
*Verify that your print is entirely within the canvas of Inkscape.
*In Preferences, within Print options, verify “image mode” is set to “color.” Otherwise, your red stokes will not be read as color, and not be seen by the laser cutter.

'''The cuts did not go all the way through the material'''

*Are you using the correct material profile? If not, reset the job (described below) and repeat the cut with the correct material profile. If it appears that the cut went partway through the material you may want to use a setting that is less powerful than your material would normally use (again, described below)
*You should always place your material in a corner. This way, if the cuts do not go all the way through you can reposition it easily. DO NOT MOVE THE JOB in JobControl! If you put the material in a corner, should be able to place the material back where it was, and then reset the job in JobControl by right clicking on the job in JobControl and selecting the reset job option, or by pressing Ctl+R. Next, run the cut again on the smallest thickness setting for your material. For example, if you are cutting 1/4 inch acrylic and it does not cut all the way through, repeat the cut with the 1/8 inch acrylic setting.
*If you are using the correct material profile for your material and cuts are not going all the way through, please email me and let me know so that I can take a look and fix the settings. ZCogswell18@georgefox.edu

'''The laser went really fast leaving a sort of light engrave rather than a cut'''

*You did not select the correct material, and the job ran with the ‘standard’ setting. '''DO NOT MOVE THE MATERIAL!''' You can reset the job by right clicking on the job in Job Control and selecting the reset job option, or by pressing Ctl+R. Then, select the correct material in the upper left dropdown menu and run the job again. This way you do not need to reposition the material or job, which you will almost never do perfectly.

'''The laser repeated the cut multiple times'''

*Some material profiles, such as half-inch, acrylic are set to repeat the cut line multiple times, as to get a cleaner product. If the cuts look good, this is normal.
*Are you importing from SolidWorks? For some reason, SolidWorks likes to have duplicate lines quite often. In Inkscape, click on the cut that was repeated and drag to move it. If you move the line and another line is underneath, you need to delete all duplicates in the file. Often if you have a thin stoke (.25pt) and zoom out, the duplicate lines will be visually darker, allowing you to identify and delete them.

'''The acrylic is melted or blackened'''

*Verify that you are using the correct material profile. If you are, for example, cutting 1/4 acrylic with the 1/2 setting, the acrylic will be melted and not give clean cuts.
*Are you importing from SolidWorks? As mentioned above, “''For some reason, SolidWorks likes to have duplicate lines quite often. In Inkscape, click on the cut that was repeated and drag to move it. If you move the line and another line is underneath, you need to delete all duplicates in the file. Often if you have a thin stoke (.25pt) and zoom out, the duplicate lines will be visually darker, allowing you to identify and delete them.”''

'''Cuts are not clean'''

*Is the machine focused properly for your material? If you’re not sure, or even if you are (you may have bumped the bed control buttons accidentally) refocus it.
*Check the lens for dust because this can interfere with the laser. If it is dirty, see the maintenance section on how to clean it.

'''The material is being cut in unintended places'''

*Check your Inkscape file and make sure there are no red stokes in places you did not want
*Make sure there are no other jobs on the work area (grey rectangles in the honeycomb area of JobControl). If there are, drag them back into the list on the right side or delete them

'''Inkscape is not printing to JobControl'''

* If the status on the print window (in the "Select Printer" section, just below the printer options) says "Error" instead of "Ready," try the following:
** Start → Settings → Devices → Printers & scanners → Trotec Engraver v10.5.0 → Open queue → Printer → Cancel All Documents
*** Deleting all of the items from the queue will also work
* If the above does not work, contact the lab supervisors or Justin.

*

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

To keep the laser cutter running and cutting smoothly, the mirror and lens should be periodically cleaned. This is on top of the general cleaning that should be done to keep the machine dust and scrap free. There are also filters in the exhaust system that must be changed once the activated carbon has been used up.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Done
|-
|1
|General cleaning
|As needed after a cut
|Student
|N/A
|-
|2
|Clean the Mirror
|As needed
|Volunteer
|
|-
|3
|Clean the Lens
|As needed
|Volunteer
|
|-
|4
|Change Filters
|When filter usage reaches 100%
|Ace
|
|}

#The honeycomb should be removed and the metal bed itself should be should be swept/cleaned more or less daily. Cleaners are available to help in this process. Green is general cleaning use this for the bed and metal surfaces. Blue is glass cleaner, use this for the plexiglass surfaces. The front door of the Speedy 300 may be removed using the spring loaded pin on the right to remove cut pieces stuck in the door. The air vents at the rear of the machine should be kept clean of debris. Clean in a manner similar to the bed.
#The lense, mirror, and cone should be inspected daily or more often as needed, especially after wood or other “dusty”/”smokey” materials are cut. The lense will need cleaning when particles are visible on the surface (hold up to light if need be). The lense may be removed using the threaded nut below the lense (see photo). The lense should be cleaned with the lense paper and cleaner available in the kit (lasercutter drawer) on both sides. Put some cleaner on the lense and gently rub the paper over the surface of the lense. The cone itself threads into the assembly below the lense nut. The cone may be cleaned with a paper towel and water or another cleaning agent. The mirror should be inspected and cleaned in the same manner as the lense.
#See above.
#The air filter to the right of the Speedy 300 will occasionally need maintenance. The most common issue is a full pre-filter (P/N 37722). This will be indicated on the filter itself by poor airflow/suction. When replacing this, use a face mask and gloves (close the lab when doing this). Open the top of the air filter with the large 10mm hex wrench in the kit. Remove the prefilter and place it in a bag for disposal. Insert a new prefilter and close the lid. Pre-filters are used to increase the lifespan of other, harder to replace and more expensive filters in the system. Less often, other filters will need replacing. These include the larger box filter (P/N 41041), additional pre-filter-type mat filters, and activated carbon. This should not need to happen as often. Follow the above procedure for pre-filter and the [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJkCgAVbAEU&feature=youtu.be video] to replace the full filter setup. Be careful not to spill activate carbon if doing a full replacement, it is difficult to clean up.

Speedy 300

2023-09-18T17:40:31Z

Justinj:

Speedy 300

2023-09-18T17:39:26Z

Justinj:

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|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
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|Has model=156F
|Has serial number=140801D83D63 / 01411-05631 (Air Filter)
|Has life expectancy=
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|Has icon=File:laser_cutter_icon.png
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|Has image=File:laser_cutter_image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The Trotec Speedy 300 Laser Engraver
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1223
|Has ace=Jack Sides;Ehayes20@georgefox.edu
}}

[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

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__TOC__

==Description==

The Trotec Speedy 300 laser engraver is used to engrave and cut materials based on specified images and shapes. This is useful for making enclosures out of acrylic, engraving designs into many materials, creating trophies, and cutting any two dimensional shape out of a variety of materials. It also has a rotary attachment which enables cylindrical objects such as drinking glasses and hydro flasks to be engraved with detailed designs.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qF8dHQPy6o}}[[File:Hydrowiki.jpg|thumb|400x400px|none|Example of an engraved Hydroflask. ]]

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

*Inkscape - The program you will be using to design is Inkscape. It allows you to type in words, edit logos, make your own logos and such to engrave or cut out of your material.
*Job Control - The program that interacts with the laser cutter to perform a cut. Job Control lets you set up/create Material Profiles, change between the HoneyComb Table and the Rotary tool (mostly used for Hydroflasks), and choose a location to cut on your material.

*Focusing tool - Used to focus the laser cutter.

*Stroke - This is the type of line that should be used when cutting.

*Repeat Cut Line - Can be used in JobControl to reproduce the same cut line that was just cut.
*Outline Job - Can be used in JobControl to trace the job that is going to be cut to show where job extends.
*Bitmap - Representation of an image as bits of information (pixels); used to allow logos/stencils to be changed into colors.
*Vector - Representation of an image as shapes, rather than bits; used to allow logos/stencils to be modified as objects.
*Trace Bitmap - Can be used on a bitmap to to turn it into a vector.
*Honeycomb Table - This is the honeycomb shaped metal tray that holds flat material during a cut. It is used for most cut jobs.
*Rotary Tool - When engraving water bottles or glasses, this accessory is used to hold the object in place as well as rotate it while performing a cut.

====Material Settings====

* '''[[Media:LICENSE KEY S3-4397.pdf|License Key Information]]'''
* '''[[Media:TrotecMaterials 2022.09.08 10.40.55.xml|Speedy 300 Material Settings 8 SEP 2022]]

====User Manual====

* '''[[Media:JobControl-Manual-EN.pdf|Job Control Operation Manual]]'''
* '''[[Media:8011-speedy300-manual-en.pdf|Speedy 300 Operation Manual]]'''

==Training==
====Operation====

Performing a cut or engrave with the laser will always begin with Inkscape by opening/importing an image, pdf, DXF, or similar file. If you do not have a file yet then it can also be used to create geometries. When you use SolidWorks to generate a .dxf file the correct face must be selected prior to saving the file. Once a file has been brought into Inkscape, it must be adjusted so that job control can distinguish between what should be cut out of the material and what should be engraved. A cut is indicated by a hairline red stroke (in the RGB color scheme) and an engrave is indicated by the color black. After the graphic is prepared, it is transferred to job control using [File] > [Print] and making sure trotec is selected as the device. It will then pop up in the job list on the right hand side of JobControl. At this point the laser cutter should be set up by turning it on, placing the material on the honeycomb table, and then raising the table to focus the laser. The final steps are then to click the USB icon in job control to connect to the laser cutter, drag the job onto the to scale honeycomb table, set the correct material properties, and then click the play button to perform the cut/engrave. When performing an engrave on a cylindrical object, the set up process in Inkscape is the same but there are a few differences in job control and laser cutter itself. Primarily, the honeycomb table must be exchanged for the rotary tool, which must be done while the laser cutter is OFF. The laser cutter should automatically recognize that the rotary is attached. The only change in job control is that the accessory should be changed in the settings from the honeycomb table to the rotary tool.
 
 
A Training Venture (TV) that uses the Laser Cutter is the [[Windchimes]]

====Demonstration====

First, import a George Fox logo into Inkscape and set it up so that the logo is an engrave with a cut circle surrounding it. Once this is done, print the job to job control and run the job on a piece of scrap material.

====General Procedure====
[[File:trotec_laser_engraving.mp4|thumb|none|400px|This video shows the complete process of completing an engrave. See below for details on doing this. ]]

#'''Setting up a Job'''
##First off, open a new document in Inkscape on your own machine or one of the lab computers (File > New, or Ctrl + N). Next, you’ll want to set the dimensions of your page by going to [File] > [Document Properties] (Ctrl + Shift + D). Your page can be as big as you like, as long as it’s larger than the shape you’re working with. However, always '''make sure that the document is square.''' There’s some weird quirk with the software that makes this necessary, keeping the document square will keep you from running into a lot of problems later on. Under the “Custom Size” section in document properties, set your hight and width to something larger than the longest dimension of your object. When you export the shape to the laser cutter, Inkscape will export anything within the document canvas and ignore anything that extends beyond it’s borders.
##Now you’re ready to create a shape to be cut or engraved. a.) If you’re importing a shape from SolidWorks, the file should be saved as a .DXF file. Simply drag the file onto your Inkscape document or import it via [File] > [Import] (Ctrl + I). If prompted to select scaling options, choose “read from file” and click OK. Next, select the object and go to [Object] > [Ungroup] (Ctrl + Shift + G). This will allow you to select the text objects that make up the SolidWorks watermark and delete them. While you’re here, make sure that there is only one copy of each line, as SolidWorks often likes to make duplicates. Finally, you may want to select all of the remaining objects and regroup them with [Object] > [Group] (Ctrl + G). Skip to step 5. b.) If you want to cut or engrave from an image, the best way to do so is from a vector image file. Vector graphics files store the lines, shapes, and colors that make up an image rather than storing data based on pixels as in a typical raster image. These lines, shapes, and colors is what the laser cutter interprets when cutting and engraving. If you’ve designed something in Adobe Illustrator, Inkscape, or other vector-based drawing applications, you can save your image directly to this format. If you’re looking for images online, search for vector images. These will most commonly be in the format of .SVG, .EPS, and some types of .PDF. You can import these types of images into your Inkscape document by simply dragging them onto the canvas or importing them via [File] > [Import] (Ctrl + I). Skip to step 5. c.) If you want to engrave or cut a raster (pixel-based) image, you will need to convert it to a vector shape. Drag your image onto the Inkscape canvas and proceed to step 3. [[File:...gfuLogo.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Inkscape can convert an image into vectors based on the composition of the source image. To do this, select your image, right click, and select Trace Bitmap, (Alt + Shift + B). You will be given several options shown below. Check the “Live Preview” box which will give you a better idea what’s going to happen. For the George Fox logo, we want to separate the colors from each other, so we’ll select “Colors” under the “Multiple Scans” section. The number of scans you specify correlates to the number of objects that Inkscape will create based on the different parts of the image. Since our example is a simple logo with 3 colors, 3 scans will be sufficient. Depending on your image, you’ll have to play around with these settings a bit. For a back and white image, you’ll probably want to use “Brightness Cuttoff” under “Single Scan” and adjust the “Threshold” value until the preview looks correct. Once you click OK, the vector will appear directly on top of the original image, so make sure to drag it off and move or delete the original image. [[File:...traceBitmap.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##You will now have a vector object that consists of several parts. Separate them by right-clicking the vector and selecting “Ungroup” (Ctrl + Shift + G). Now you’ll be able to alter each part of the object. In our example, we’ll go with the one on the right and delete the one on the left. [[File:...separateParts.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Now we can manipulate the colors. Select the object and go to [Object] > [Fill and Stroke] (usually it will already be open on the right sidebar). You will see Fill, Stroke Paint, and Stroke Style on the top right. Fill changes the color of a piece, Stroke Paint changes the color of a stroke, and Stroke Style changes the thickness and style of a stroke. You will see values for R, G, and B, which control color. When each color has a 0 next to it, it will be fully black. When the red has a 255 next to it and the others have 0, it will be fully red. The machine will cut material ONLY when it sees a stroke that is 255, 0, 0, and it will engrave material ONLY when it sees 0, 0, 0. Set these values on your object depending on what you want to engrave or cut, and make sure these values are exact before continuing. Anything that you do not want to cut or engrave, either delete or set to white, which is 255, 255, 255. Be sure to make each a “Flat Color” so that the color is constant throughout the entire object.
##Now that you have an object with the correct fill and stroke, you’ll want to resize it to the size you want. Select your object, and in the top bar of Inkscape you’ll see options for height and width. If you want to scale the object without altering it’s height and width ratios, lock the two together by clicking the lock icon. Measure your material and set the height and width accordingly, or set the values to your desired size. If you imported your file from SolidWorks you shouldn’t need to change these dimensions, just verify that they match the size of your object in SolidWorks. [[File:...Stroke.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Once you have finished your design, it’s time to send it to the Laser Cutter! Go to [File] > [Print] (Ctrl + P) and make sure it is sending to Trotec Engraver but do not click [OK] yet.
##Select [Preferences] to open the engraver properties. Check both “Take From Application” and “Minimize to Jobsize.” These settings tell the program to assume the canvas is the same size as it is in Inkscape and then crop to the size of your print. Also verify “Image Mode” is set to “Color” and “Enhanced Geometries” is not selected. '''NOTE''': “Take From Application” will only work if your Inkscape canvas is square. Make sure to set this correctly, or else set the print size to something larger than either dimension of your print (so long as “Minimize to Jobsize” is enabled.)[[File:...printing.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Save these settings by selecting the button that shows the JC logo near the bottom of the Printing Preferences and select Print to send the design to Job Control.
#'''Setting up the Laser Cutter'''
##Turn on the machine using the power switch located on the back of the machine in the left corner. The machine will go through a startup procedure where the cutting bed lowers and the laser travels to its home position. Note that the lid must be closed for the startup procedure to begin. You will hear be some beeping coming from the machine.
##Place your material onto the honeycomb table. '''ALWAYS''' place it in a corner, snug against two sides of the bed. This way if something doesn't go quite perfectly in the cutting process you can return the material back to that corner and try again without having to scrap the entire piece.
##Now it’s time to focus the laser onto your material. Begin by moving the laser head over the middle of your material. Place the focusing tool on the laser head and slowly raise the table until the the focusing tool just barely touches the material. Be sure to raise the bed extra slowly when approaching the focusing tool, so that you can stop the moment you are at the correct height. Use cation, as there is also no safety in place to prevent the material from crashing into the head and damaging this delicate, expensive assembly. The focusing tool will likely fall off the head; this is fine so long as you didn’t overshoot the point at which it first touched. Reference the images below for proper focusing tool placement and laser head controls.[[File:Laser Focus Tool.png|none|thumb|404x404px| Proper placement of the focusing tool. ]][[File:Laser Controls.png|none|thumb|296x296px| Laser control pad. (1) Raise and lower the bed. (2) Move the laser head (5) Air assist. Make sure it is always on to vent fumes properly. ]]
##Remove the focusing tool and return it to its home.
##Press the USB icon found in the bottom right corner of Job Control to connect to the laser cutter. The laser should beep a few times and then a the background of job control will change to a honeycomb pattern to represent the actual honeycomb table. Also, the USB icon will change to a play icon.
#'''Cutting with Job Control'''
##After you send your design to Job Control your design will be named with the name of your Inkscape file, which will appear in the “Jobs” window on the right. If you do not see your job (your design), be sure to select [See All] at the bottom of that window. This lets you see files ALL dpi types, rather than just a specific dpi type. You can check the print preview by double clicking the box showing your preview in the bottom right.
##Using the arrow keys on the laser cutter, move the head until the laser pointer is positioned on your material where you want a corner of your cut to begin. You’ll notice (assuming that you’ve connected the laser cutter to Job Control) that the curser moves within Job Control as you move the laser head.
##Double click/drag your job onto the honeycomb area and position it relative to the cursor. You’ll notice that the corners of your job will snap to the cursor.
##Move the laser head/cursor around to make sure your job fits onto the material you are using. Move the cursor to the opposite, diagonal corner from the one you started from and make sure that the laser head is not off an edge of the material.
##Then select your material at the top left. There are two dropdown menus, one for general material groups, and one for specific material profiles. These settings control the laser’s speed and power which are fine tuned for the material you select. [[File:Mitch5.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##To see the duration of the job, you can click the Update in the bottom left. You are ready to click the Play button in the bottom right. For bigger jobs, the Laser Cutter will take a little bit of time to read the design. If it does not start immediately, don’t be scared. Just be supportive and it will begin shortly. If it does not start at all, ask for help from the supervisor.
##Once the job starts, stay with it. Be sure it is actually engraving/cutting the material. Don’t open the lid (or even lean on it) as this causes the job to cancel without the ability to resume it. If the lasercutter is not doing what it should be click pause in the bottom right of Job Control, or stop it entirely with the stop button. Consult the supervisor for assistance. If something has gone very wrong, lifting the lid will immediately stop the machine, though this is not recommended under normal circumstances.[[File:Mitch6.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##After the job is completed reset the space by cleaning out any scrap materials from the bed and deleting the job from job control and Inkscape.
#'''Cutting with the Rotary Tool'''
##The Rotary Tool lets you cut and engrave cylindrical objects, the most popular of these being Hydroflasks. This part applies after you have already sent the file from Inkscape to the Laser Cutter.
##Turn OFF the machine, remove the honeycomb table, and plug in the rotary tool. The rest of the laser cutter setup is the same as above.
##To start off, go to Settings → Options → Hardware → Accessories. This is where you can switch from the HoneyComb Table to the Rotary Tool and vice versa.
##Enter the diameter of your bottle (using the Calipers in the lab), as it tells the Rotary Tool how fast to turn as it engraves. Do not mess this up, or you will have a stretched/squeezed image. [[File:Rotary 1.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##Once you click OK/apply, the window background will look like the image below.
##Double click/drag the job onto the window. It should automatically flip the image so that it will engrave in the proper orientation even though the bottle is held horizontally. [[File:Rotary2.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##Next, pick the material Hydroflask → Black Mug for a Hydroflask, or one of the glass profiles if engraving glass, and now you are ready to engrave your thing!
##When you are finished, RESET THE SPACE! Put the Rotary Tool away and replace it with the HoneyComb Table.

==Safety==

*Always make sure the material you are using is safe to use. There is an especially high risk when engraving plastics. Fumes from plastics can be toxic. Make sure you find the specific material you are using and check to see if it produces toxic fumes when burned. Never attempt to engrave PVC as it produces chlorine gas (the stuff they used in WWI).
*Once the laser is focused do not touch the button that raises the bed or the laser will crash into the machine which causes damage to the machine.
*Be careful when moving the laser head when using the rotary tool because it has protruding parts that will harm the laser cutter if a crash occurs.
*Keep an eye on active cuts because fires can be started when cutting wood or acrylic with paper covering.
*If you feel unsure about anything located in the laser cutting procedure make sure to consult the supervisor for assistance.

==Cut List==
===Approved Materials===
* Acrylic
* Wood
* Vegetable tanned leather

===DO NOT CUT===
* Any plastics containing PVC (polyvinyl chloride)
* Chrome tanned leather
* Hardboard (Masonite)

If you want to cut a material not listed here, please talk with the Maker Hub staff.

==Certification==
Complete the Prototype Lab - Laser Cutters (Speedy 300/400) Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}} (this module satisfies requirements for both the Speedy 300 and the Speedy 400). The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/G7CTPX Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
'''First of all, check your export settings'''

*There are multiple combinations of settings that will work for export; which means that depending on who was using the machine last, settings may be different. These are the settings I (the ace) have found to work most consistently: Set your Inkscape document to square by going to [File] > [Document Properties] ( Ctl+Shift+D) and set both the Height and Width fields to the same value, bigger than your shape. Why this is an issue is yet unknown, Inkscape just doesn’t like exporting non-square documents with the other settings to follow. Print the document with File > Print or Ctl+P. Click preferences and check both “Take From Application” and “Minimize to Jobsize.” These settings tell the program to assume the canvas is the same size as Inkscape and then crop to the size of your print. Also verify “image mode” is set to “color.” These settings will fix most common issues.

'''Cuts are not being made'''

*Some export settings may be incorrect. Verify that your settings are set to those described above. These settings will fix most issues of lines not cutting.
*Verify that all stokes are set to red with a stroke width between 1pt and .25pt (.25pt recommended)
*Verify that your print is entirely within the canvas of Inkscape.
*In Preferences, within Print options, verify “image mode” is set to “color.” Otherwise, your red stokes will not be read as color, and not be seen by the laser cutter.

'''The cuts did not go all the way through the material'''

*Are you using the correct material profile? If not, reset the job (described below) and repeat the cut with the correct material profile. If it appears that the cut went partway through the material you may want to use a setting that is less powerful than your material would normally use (again, described below)
*You should always place your material in a corner. This way, if the cuts do not go all the way through you can reposition it easily. DO NOT MOVE THE JOB in JobControl! If you put the material in a corner, should be able to place the material back where it was, and then reset the job in JobControl by right clicking on the job in JobControl and selecting the reset job option, or by pressing Ctl+R. Next, run the cut again on the smallest thickness setting for your material. For example, if you are cutting 1/4 inch acrylic and it does not cut all the way through, repeat the cut with the 1/8 inch acrylic setting.
*If you are using the correct material profile for your material and cuts are not going all the way through, please email me and let me know so that I can take a look and fix the settings. ZCogswell18@georgefox.edu

'''The laser went really fast leaving a sort of light engrave rather than a cut'''

*You did not select the correct material, and the job ran with the ‘standard’ setting. '''DO NOT MOVE THE MATERIAL!''' You can reset the job by right clicking on the job in Job Control and selecting the reset job option, or by pressing Ctl+R. Then, select the correct material in the upper left dropdown menu and run the job again. This way you do not need to reposition the material or job, which you will almost never do perfectly.

'''The laser repeated the cut multiple times'''

*Some material profiles, such as half-inch, acrylic are set to repeat the cut line multiple times, as to get a cleaner product. If the cuts look good, this is normal.
*Are you importing from SolidWorks? For some reason, SolidWorks likes to have duplicate lines quite often. In Inkscape, click on the cut that was repeated and drag to move it. If you move the line and another line is underneath, you need to delete all duplicates in the file. Often if you have a thin stoke (.25pt) and zoom out, the duplicate lines will be visually darker, allowing you to identify and delete them.

'''The acrylic is melted or blackened'''

*Verify that you are using the correct material profile. If you are, for example, cutting 1/4 acrylic with the 1/2 setting, the acrylic will be melted and not give clean cuts.
*Are you importing from SolidWorks? As mentioned above, “''For some reason, SolidWorks likes to have duplicate lines quite often. In Inkscape, click on the cut that was repeated and drag to move it. If you move the line and another line is underneath, you need to delete all duplicates in the file. Often if you have a thin stoke (.25pt) and zoom out, the duplicate lines will be visually darker, allowing you to identify and delete them.”''

'''Cuts are not clean'''

*Is the machine focused properly for your material? If you’re not sure, or even if you are (you may have bumped the bed control buttons accidentally) refocus it.
*Check the lens for dust because this can interfere with the laser. If it is dirty, see the maintenance section on how to clean it.

'''The material is being cut in unintended places'''

*Check your Inkscape file and make sure there are no red stokes in places you did not want
*Make sure there are no other jobs on the work area (grey rectangles in the honeycomb area of JobControl). If there are, drag them back into the list on the right side or delete them

'''Inkscape is not printing to JobControl'''

* If the status on the print window (in the "Select Printer" section, just below the printer options) says "Error" instead of "Ready," try the following:
** Start → Settings → Devices → Printers & scanners → Trotec Engraver v10.5.0 → Open queue → Printer → Cancel All Documents
*** Deleting all of the items from the queue will also work
* If the above does not work, contact the lab supervisors or Justin.

*

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

To keep the laser cutter running and cutting smoothly, the mirror and lens should be periodically cleaned. This is on top of the general cleaning that should be done to keep the machine dust and scrap free. There are also filters in the exhaust system that must be changed once the activated carbon has been used up.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Done
|-
|1
|General cleaning
|As needed after a cut
|Student
|N/A
|-
|2
|Clean the Mirror
|As needed
|Volunteer
|
|-
|3
|Clean the Lens
|As needed
|Volunteer
|
|-
|4
|Change Filters
|When filter usage reaches 100%
|Ace
|
|}

#The honeycomb should be removed and the metal bed itself should be should be swept/cleaned more or less daily. Cleaners are available to help in this process. Green is general cleaning use this for the bed and metal surfaces. Blue is glass cleaner, use this for the plexiglass surfaces. The front door of the Speedy 300 may be removed using the spring loaded pin on the right to remove cut pieces stuck in the door. The air vents at the rear of the machine should be kept clean of debris. Clean in a manner similar to the bed.
#The lense, mirror, and cone should be inspected daily or more often as needed, especially after wood or other “dusty”/”smokey” materials are cut. The lense will need cleaning when particles are visible on the surface (hold up to light if need be). The lense may be removed using the threaded nut below the lense (see photo). The lense should be cleaned with the lense paper and cleaner available in the kit (lasercutter drawer) on both sides. Put some cleaner on the lense and gently rub the paper over the surface of the lense. The cone itself threads into the assembly below the lense nut. The cone may be cleaned with a paper towel and water or another cleaning agent. The mirror should be inspected and cleaned in the same manner as the lense.
#See above.
#The air filter to the right of the Speedy 300 will occasionally need maintenance. The most common issue is a full pre-filter (P/N 37722). This will be indicated on the filter itself by poor airflow/suction. When replacing this, use a face mask and gloves (close the lab when doing this). Open the top of the air filter with the large 10mm hex wrench in the kit. Remove the prefilter and place it in a bag for disposal. Insert a new prefilter and close the lid. Pre-filters are used to increase the lifespan of other, harder to replace and more expensive filters in the system. Less often, other filters will need replacing. These include the larger box filter (P/N 41041), additional pre-filter-type mat filters, and activated carbon. This should not need to happen as often. Follow the above procedure for pre-filter and the [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJkCgAVbAEU&feature=youtu.be video] to replace the full filter setup. Be careful not to spill activate carbon if doing a full replacement, it is difficult to clean up.

Speedy 300

2023-09-18T17:38:47Z

Justinj:

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|Has imagedesc=The Trotec Speedy 300 Laser Engraver
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|Has ace=Jack Sides;jsides22@georgefox.edu
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__TOC__

==Description==

The Trotec Speedy 300 laser engraver is used to engrave and cut materials based on specified images and shapes. This is useful for making enclosures out of acrylic, engraving designs into many materials, creating trophies, and cutting any two dimensional shape out of a variety of materials. It also has a rotary attachment which enables cylindrical objects such as drinking glasses and hydro flasks to be engraved with detailed designs.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qF8dHQPy6o}}[[File:Hydrowiki.jpg|thumb|400x400px|none|Example of an engraved Hydroflask. ]]

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

*Inkscape - The program you will be using to design is Inkscape. It allows you to type in words, edit logos, make your own logos and such to engrave or cut out of your material.
*Job Control - The program that interacts with the laser cutter to perform a cut. Job Control lets you set up/create Material Profiles, change between the HoneyComb Table and the Rotary tool (mostly used for Hydroflasks), and choose a location to cut on your material.

*Focusing tool - Used to focus the laser cutter.

*Stroke - This is the type of line that should be used when cutting.

*Repeat Cut Line - Can be used in JobControl to reproduce the same cut line that was just cut.
*Outline Job - Can be used in JobControl to trace the job that is going to be cut to show where job extends.
*Bitmap - Representation of an image as bits of information (pixels); used to allow logos/stencils to be changed into colors.
*Vector - Representation of an image as shapes, rather than bits; used to allow logos/stencils to be modified as objects.
*Trace Bitmap - Can be used on a bitmap to to turn it into a vector.
*Honeycomb Table - This is the honeycomb shaped metal tray that holds flat material during a cut. It is used for most cut jobs.
*Rotary Tool - When engraving water bottles or glasses, this accessory is used to hold the object in place as well as rotate it while performing a cut.

====Material Settings====

* '''[[Media:LICENSE KEY S3-4397.pdf|License Key Information]]'''
* '''[[Media:TrotecMaterials 2022.09.08 10.40.55.xml|Speedy 300 Material Settings 8 SEP 2022]]

====User Manual====

* '''[[Media:JobControl-Manual-EN.pdf|Job Control Operation Manual]]'''
* '''[[Media:8011-speedy300-manual-en.pdf|Speedy 300 Operation Manual]]'''

==Training==
====Operation====

Performing a cut or engrave with the laser will always begin with Inkscape by opening/importing an image, pdf, DXF, or similar file. If you do not have a file yet then it can also be used to create geometries. When you use SolidWorks to generate a .dxf file the correct face must be selected prior to saving the file. Once a file has been brought into Inkscape, it must be adjusted so that job control can distinguish between what should be cut out of the material and what should be engraved. A cut is indicated by a hairline red stroke (in the RGB color scheme) and an engrave is indicated by the color black. After the graphic is prepared, it is transferred to job control using [File] > [Print] and making sure trotec is selected as the device. It will then pop up in the job list on the right hand side of JobControl. At this point the laser cutter should be set up by turning it on, placing the material on the honeycomb table, and then raising the table to focus the laser. The final steps are then to click the USB icon in job control to connect to the laser cutter, drag the job onto the to scale honeycomb table, set the correct material properties, and then click the play button to perform the cut/engrave. When performing an engrave on a cylindrical object, the set up process in Inkscape is the same but there are a few differences in job control and laser cutter itself. Primarily, the honeycomb table must be exchanged for the rotary tool, which must be done while the laser cutter is OFF. The laser cutter should automatically recognize that the rotary is attached. The only change in job control is that the accessory should be changed in the settings from the honeycomb table to the rotary tool.
 
 
A Training Venture (TV) that uses the Laser Cutter is the [[Windchimes]]

====Demonstration====

First, import a George Fox logo into Inkscape and set it up so that the logo is an engrave with a cut circle surrounding it. Once this is done, print the job to job control and run the job on a piece of scrap material.

====General Procedure====
[[File:trotec_laser_engraving.mp4|thumb|none|400px|This video shows the complete process of completing an engrave. See below for details on doing this. ]]

#'''Setting up a Job'''
##First off, open a new document in Inkscape on your own machine or one of the lab computers (File > New, or Ctrl + N). Next, you’ll want to set the dimensions of your page by going to [File] > [Document Properties] (Ctrl + Shift + D). Your page can be as big as you like, as long as it’s larger than the shape you’re working with. However, always '''make sure that the document is square.''' There’s some weird quirk with the software that makes this necessary, keeping the document square will keep you from running into a lot of problems later on. Under the “Custom Size” section in document properties, set your hight and width to something larger than the longest dimension of your object. When you export the shape to the laser cutter, Inkscape will export anything within the document canvas and ignore anything that extends beyond it’s borders.
##Now you’re ready to create a shape to be cut or engraved. a.) If you’re importing a shape from SolidWorks, the file should be saved as a .DXF file. Simply drag the file onto your Inkscape document or import it via [File] > [Import] (Ctrl + I). If prompted to select scaling options, choose “read from file” and click OK. Next, select the object and go to [Object] > [Ungroup] (Ctrl + Shift + G). This will allow you to select the text objects that make up the SolidWorks watermark and delete them. While you’re here, make sure that there is only one copy of each line, as SolidWorks often likes to make duplicates. Finally, you may want to select all of the remaining objects and regroup them with [Object] > [Group] (Ctrl + G). Skip to step 5. b.) If you want to cut or engrave from an image, the best way to do so is from a vector image file. Vector graphics files store the lines, shapes, and colors that make up an image rather than storing data based on pixels as in a typical raster image. These lines, shapes, and colors is what the laser cutter interprets when cutting and engraving. If you’ve designed something in Adobe Illustrator, Inkscape, or other vector-based drawing applications, you can save your image directly to this format. If you’re looking for images online, search for vector images. These will most commonly be in the format of .SVG, .EPS, and some types of .PDF. You can import these types of images into your Inkscape document by simply dragging them onto the canvas or importing them via [File] > [Import] (Ctrl + I). Skip to step 5. c.) If you want to engrave or cut a raster (pixel-based) image, you will need to convert it to a vector shape. Drag your image onto the Inkscape canvas and proceed to step 3. [[File:...gfuLogo.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Inkscape can convert an image into vectors based on the composition of the source image. To do this, select your image, right click, and select Trace Bitmap, (Alt + Shift + B). You will be given several options shown below. Check the “Live Preview” box which will give you a better idea what’s going to happen. For the George Fox logo, we want to separate the colors from each other, so we’ll select “Colors” under the “Multiple Scans” section. The number of scans you specify correlates to the number of objects that Inkscape will create based on the different parts of the image. Since our example is a simple logo with 3 colors, 3 scans will be sufficient. Depending on your image, you’ll have to play around with these settings a bit. For a back and white image, you’ll probably want to use “Brightness Cuttoff” under “Single Scan” and adjust the “Threshold” value until the preview looks correct. Once you click OK, the vector will appear directly on top of the original image, so make sure to drag it off and move or delete the original image. [[File:...traceBitmap.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##You will now have a vector object that consists of several parts. Separate them by right-clicking the vector and selecting “Ungroup” (Ctrl + Shift + G). Now you’ll be able to alter each part of the object. In our example, we’ll go with the one on the right and delete the one on the left. [[File:...separateParts.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Now we can manipulate the colors. Select the object and go to [Object] > [Fill and Stroke] (usually it will already be open on the right sidebar). You will see Fill, Stroke Paint, and Stroke Style on the top right. Fill changes the color of a piece, Stroke Paint changes the color of a stroke, and Stroke Style changes the thickness and style of a stroke. You will see values for R, G, and B, which control color. When each color has a 0 next to it, it will be fully black. When the red has a 255 next to it and the others have 0, it will be fully red. The machine will cut material ONLY when it sees a stroke that is 255, 0, 0, and it will engrave material ONLY when it sees 0, 0, 0. Set these values on your object depending on what you want to engrave or cut, and make sure these values are exact before continuing. Anything that you do not want to cut or engrave, either delete or set to white, which is 255, 255, 255. Be sure to make each a “Flat Color” so that the color is constant throughout the entire object.
##Now that you have an object with the correct fill and stroke, you’ll want to resize it to the size you want. Select your object, and in the top bar of Inkscape you’ll see options for height and width. If you want to scale the object without altering it’s height and width ratios, lock the two together by clicking the lock icon. Measure your material and set the height and width accordingly, or set the values to your desired size. If you imported your file from SolidWorks you shouldn’t need to change these dimensions, just verify that they match the size of your object in SolidWorks. [[File:...Stroke.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Once you have finished your design, it’s time to send it to the Laser Cutter! Go to [File] > [Print] (Ctrl + P) and make sure it is sending to Trotec Engraver but do not click [OK] yet.
##Select [Preferences] to open the engraver properties. Check both “Take From Application” and “Minimize to Jobsize.” These settings tell the program to assume the canvas is the same size as it is in Inkscape and then crop to the size of your print. Also verify “Image Mode” is set to “Color” and “Enhanced Geometries” is not selected. '''NOTE''': “Take From Application” will only work if your Inkscape canvas is square. Make sure to set this correctly, or else set the print size to something larger than either dimension of your print (so long as “Minimize to Jobsize” is enabled.)[[File:...printing.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Save these settings by selecting the button that shows the JC logo near the bottom of the Printing Preferences and select Print to send the design to Job Control.
#'''Setting up the Laser Cutter'''
##Turn on the machine using the power switch located on the back of the machine in the left corner. The machine will go through a startup procedure where the cutting bed lowers and the laser travels to its home position. Note that the lid must be closed for the startup procedure to begin. You will hear be some beeping coming from the machine.
##Place your material onto the honeycomb table. '''ALWAYS''' place it in a corner, snug against two sides of the bed. This way if something doesn't go quite perfectly in the cutting process you can return the material back to that corner and try again without having to scrap the entire piece.
##Now it’s time to focus the laser onto your material. Begin by moving the laser head over the middle of your material. Place the focusing tool on the laser head and slowly raise the table until the the focusing tool just barely touches the material. Be sure to raise the bed extra slowly when approaching the focusing tool, so that you can stop the moment you are at the correct height. Use cation, as there is also no safety in place to prevent the material from crashing into the head and damaging this delicate, expensive assembly. The focusing tool will likely fall off the head; this is fine so long as you didn’t overshoot the point at which it first touched. Reference the images below for proper focusing tool placement and laser head controls.[[File:Laser Focus Tool.png|none|thumb|404x404px| Proper placement of the focusing tool. ]][[File:Laser Controls.png|none|thumb|296x296px| Laser control pad. (1) Raise and lower the bed. (2) Move the laser head (5) Air assist. Make sure it is always on to vent fumes properly. ]]
##Remove the focusing tool and return it to its home.
##Press the USB icon found in the bottom right corner of Job Control to connect to the laser cutter. The laser should beep a few times and then a the background of job control will change to a honeycomb pattern to represent the actual honeycomb table. Also, the USB icon will change to a play icon.
#'''Cutting with Job Control'''
##After you send your design to Job Control your design will be named with the name of your Inkscape file, which will appear in the “Jobs” window on the right. If you do not see your job (your design), be sure to select [See All] at the bottom of that window. This lets you see files ALL dpi types, rather than just a specific dpi type. You can check the print preview by double clicking the box showing your preview in the bottom right.
##Using the arrow keys on the laser cutter, move the head until the laser pointer is positioned on your material where you want a corner of your cut to begin. You’ll notice (assuming that you’ve connected the laser cutter to Job Control) that the curser moves within Job Control as you move the laser head.
##Double click/drag your job onto the honeycomb area and position it relative to the cursor. You’ll notice that the corners of your job will snap to the cursor.
##Move the laser head/cursor around to make sure your job fits onto the material you are using. Move the cursor to the opposite, diagonal corner from the one you started from and make sure that the laser head is not off an edge of the material.
##Then select your material at the top left. There are two dropdown menus, one for general material groups, and one for specific material profiles. These settings control the laser’s speed and power which are fine tuned for the material you select. [[File:Mitch5.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##To see the duration of the job, you can click the Update in the bottom left. You are ready to click the Play button in the bottom right. For bigger jobs, the Laser Cutter will take a little bit of time to read the design. If it does not start immediately, don’t be scared. Just be supportive and it will begin shortly. If it does not start at all, ask for help from the supervisor.
##Once the job starts, stay with it. Be sure it is actually engraving/cutting the material. Don’t open the lid (or even lean on it) as this causes the job to cancel without the ability to resume it. If the lasercutter is not doing what it should be click pause in the bottom right of Job Control, or stop it entirely with the stop button. Consult the supervisor for assistance. If something has gone very wrong, lifting the lid will immediately stop the machine, though this is not recommended under normal circumstances.[[File:Mitch6.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##After the job is completed reset the space by cleaning out any scrap materials from the bed and deleting the job from job control and Inkscape.
#'''Cutting with the Rotary Tool'''
##The Rotary Tool lets you cut and engrave cylindrical objects, the most popular of these being Hydroflasks. This part applies after you have already sent the file from Inkscape to the Laser Cutter.
##Turn OFF the machine, remove the honeycomb table, and plug in the rotary tool. The rest of the laser cutter setup is the same as above.
##To start off, go to Settings → Options → Hardware → Accessories. This is where you can switch from the HoneyComb Table to the Rotary Tool and vice versa.
##Enter the diameter of your bottle (using the Calipers in the lab), as it tells the Rotary Tool how fast to turn as it engraves. Do not mess this up, or you will have a stretched/squeezed image. [[File:Rotary 1.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##Once you click OK/apply, the window background will look like the image below.
##Double click/drag the job onto the window. It should automatically flip the image so that it will engrave in the proper orientation even though the bottle is held horizontally. [[File:Rotary2.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##Next, pick the material Hydroflask → Black Mug for a Hydroflask, or one of the glass profiles if engraving glass, and now you are ready to engrave your thing!
##When you are finished, RESET THE SPACE! Put the Rotary Tool away and replace it with the HoneyComb Table.

==Safety==

*Always make sure the material you are using is safe to use. There is an especially high risk when engraving plastics. Fumes from plastics can be toxic. Make sure you find the specific material you are using and check to see if it produces toxic fumes when burned. Never attempt to engrave PVC as it produces chlorine gas (the stuff they used in WWI).
*Once the laser is focused do not touch the button that raises the bed or the laser will crash into the machine which causes damage to the machine.
*Be careful when moving the laser head when using the rotary tool because it has protruding parts that will harm the laser cutter if a crash occurs.
*Keep an eye on active cuts because fires can be started when cutting wood or acrylic with paper covering.
*If you feel unsure about anything located in the laser cutting procedure make sure to consult the supervisor for assistance.

==Cut List==
===Approved Materials===
* Acrylic
* Wood
* Vegetable tanned leather

===DO NOT CUT===
* Any plastics containing PVC (polyvinyl chloride)
* Chrome tanned leather
* Hardboard (Masonite)

If you want to cut a material not listed here, please talk with the Maker Hub staff.

==Certification==
Complete the Prototype Lab - Laser Cutters (Speedy 300/400) Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}} (this module satisfies requirements for both the Speedy 300 and the Speedy 400). The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/G7CTPX Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
'''First of all, check your export settings'''

*There are multiple combinations of settings that will work for export; which means that depending on who was using the machine last, settings may be different. These are the settings I (the ace) have found to work most consistently: Set your Inkscape document to square by going to [File] > [Document Properties] ( Ctl+Shift+D) and set both the Height and Width fields to the same value, bigger than your shape. Why this is an issue is yet unknown, Inkscape just doesn’t like exporting non-square documents with the other settings to follow. Print the document with File > Print or Ctl+P. Click preferences and check both “Take From Application” and “Minimize to Jobsize.” These settings tell the program to assume the canvas is the same size as Inkscape and then crop to the size of your print. Also verify “image mode” is set to “color.” These settings will fix most common issues.

'''Cuts are not being made'''

*Some export settings may be incorrect. Verify that your settings are set to those described above. These settings will fix most issues of lines not cutting.
*Verify that all stokes are set to red with a stroke width between 1pt and .25pt (.25pt recommended)
*Verify that your print is entirely within the canvas of Inkscape.
*In Preferences, within Print options, verify “image mode” is set to “color.” Otherwise, your red stokes will not be read as color, and not be seen by the laser cutter.

'''The cuts did not go all the way through the material'''

*Are you using the correct material profile? If not, reset the job (described below) and repeat the cut with the correct material profile. If it appears that the cut went partway through the material you may want to use a setting that is less powerful than your material would normally use (again, described below)
*You should always place your material in a corner. This way, if the cuts do not go all the way through you can reposition it easily. DO NOT MOVE THE JOB in JobControl! If you put the material in a corner, should be able to place the material back where it was, and then reset the job in JobControl by right clicking on the job in JobControl and selecting the reset job option, or by pressing Ctl+R. Next, run the cut again on the smallest thickness setting for your material. For example, if you are cutting 1/4 inch acrylic and it does not cut all the way through, repeat the cut with the 1/8 inch acrylic setting.
*If you are using the correct material profile for your material and cuts are not going all the way through, please email me and let me know so that I can take a look and fix the settings. ZCogswell18@georgefox.edu

'''The laser went really fast leaving a sort of light engrave rather than a cut'''

*You did not select the correct material, and the job ran with the ‘standard’ setting. '''DO NOT MOVE THE MATERIAL!''' You can reset the job by right clicking on the job in Job Control and selecting the reset job option, or by pressing Ctl+R. Then, select the correct material in the upper left dropdown menu and run the job again. This way you do not need to reposition the material or job, which you will almost never do perfectly.

'''The laser repeated the cut multiple times'''

*Some material profiles, such as half-inch, acrylic are set to repeat the cut line multiple times, as to get a cleaner product. If the cuts look good, this is normal.
*Are you importing from SolidWorks? For some reason, SolidWorks likes to have duplicate lines quite often. In Inkscape, click on the cut that was repeated and drag to move it. If you move the line and another line is underneath, you need to delete all duplicates in the file. Often if you have a thin stoke (.25pt) and zoom out, the duplicate lines will be visually darker, allowing you to identify and delete them.

'''The acrylic is melted or blackened'''

*Verify that you are using the correct material profile. If you are, for example, cutting 1/4 acrylic with the 1/2 setting, the acrylic will be melted and not give clean cuts.
*Are you importing from SolidWorks? As mentioned above, “''For some reason, SolidWorks likes to have duplicate lines quite often. In Inkscape, click on the cut that was repeated and drag to move it. If you move the line and another line is underneath, you need to delete all duplicates in the file. Often if you have a thin stoke (.25pt) and zoom out, the duplicate lines will be visually darker, allowing you to identify and delete them.”''

'''Cuts are not clean'''

*Is the machine focused properly for your material? If you’re not sure, or even if you are (you may have bumped the bed control buttons accidentally) refocus it.
*Check the lens for dust because this can interfere with the laser. If it is dirty, see the maintenance section on how to clean it.

'''The material is being cut in unintended places'''

*Check your Inkscape file and make sure there are no red stokes in places you did not want
*Make sure there are no other jobs on the work area (grey rectangles in the honeycomb area of JobControl). If there are, drag them back into the list on the right side or delete them

'''Inkscape is not printing to JobControl'''

* If the status on the print window (in the "Select Printer" section, just below the printer options) says "Error" instead of "Ready," try the following:
** Start → Settings → Devices → Printers & scanners → Trotec Engraver v10.5.0 → Open queue → Printer → Cancel All Documents
*** Deleting all of the items from the queue will also work
* If the above does not work, contact the lab supervisors or Justin.

*

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

To keep the laser cutter running and cutting smoothly, the mirror and lens should be periodically cleaned. This is on top of the general cleaning that should be done to keep the machine dust and scrap free. There are also filters in the exhaust system that must be changed once the activated carbon has been used up.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Done
|-
|1
|General cleaning
|As needed after a cut
|Student
|N/A
|-
|2
|Clean the Mirror
|As needed
|Volunteer
|
|-
|3
|Clean the Lens
|As needed
|Volunteer
|
|-
|4
|Change Filters
|When filter usage reaches 100%
|Ace
|
|}

#The honeycomb should be removed and the metal bed itself should be should be swept/cleaned more or less daily. Cleaners are available to help in this process. Green is general cleaning use this for the bed and metal surfaces. Blue is glass cleaner, use this for the plexiglass surfaces. The front door of the Speedy 300 may be removed using the spring loaded pin on the right to remove cut pieces stuck in the door. The air vents at the rear of the machine should be kept clean of debris. Clean in a manner similar to the bed.
#The lense, mirror, and cone should be inspected daily or more often as needed, especially after wood or other “dusty”/”smokey” materials are cut. The lense will need cleaning when particles are visible on the surface (hold up to light if need be). The lense may be removed using the threaded nut below the lense (see photo). The lense should be cleaned with the lense paper and cleaner available in the kit (lasercutter drawer) on both sides. Put some cleaner on the lense and gently rub the paper over the surface of the lense. The cone itself threads into the assembly below the lense nut. The cone may be cleaned with a paper towel and water or another cleaning agent. The mirror should be inspected and cleaned in the same manner as the lense.
#See above.
#The air filter to the right of the Speedy 300 will occasionally need maintenance. The most common issue is a full pre-filter (P/N 37722). This will be indicated on the filter itself by poor airflow/suction. When replacing this, use a face mask and gloves (close the lab when doing this). Open the top of the air filter with the large 10mm hex wrench in the kit. Remove the prefilter and place it in a bag for disposal. Insert a new prefilter and close the lid. Pre-filters are used to increase the lifespan of other, harder to replace and more expensive filters in the system. Less often, other filters will need replacing. These include the larger box filter (P/N 41041), additional pre-filter-type mat filters, and activated carbon. This should not need to happen as often. Follow the above procedure for pre-filter and the [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJkCgAVbAEU&feature=youtu.be video] to replace the full filter setup. Be careful not to spill activate carbon if doing a full replacement, it is difficult to clean up.

Speedy 300

2023-09-18T17:37:05Z

Justinj:

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|Has model=156F
|Has serial number=140801D83D63 / 01411-05631 (Air Filter)
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|Has imagedesc=The Trotec Speedy 300 Laser Engraver
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1223
|Has ace=Jack Sides; jsides22@georgefox.edu
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[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
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__TOC__

==Description==

The Trotec Speedy 300 laser engraver is used to engrave and cut materials based on specified images and shapes. This is useful for making enclosures out of acrylic, engraving designs into many materials, creating trophies, and cutting any two dimensional shape out of a variety of materials. It also has a rotary attachment which enables cylindrical objects such as drinking glasses and hydro flasks to be engraved with detailed designs.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qF8dHQPy6o}}[[File:Hydrowiki.jpg|thumb|400x400px|none|Example of an engraved Hydroflask. ]]

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

*Inkscape - The program you will be using to design is Inkscape. It allows you to type in words, edit logos, make your own logos and such to engrave or cut out of your material.
*Job Control - The program that interacts with the laser cutter to perform a cut. Job Control lets you set up/create Material Profiles, change between the HoneyComb Table and the Rotary tool (mostly used for Hydroflasks), and choose a location to cut on your material.

*Focusing tool - Used to focus the laser cutter.

*Stroke - This is the type of line that should be used when cutting.

*Repeat Cut Line - Can be used in JobControl to reproduce the same cut line that was just cut.
*Outline Job - Can be used in JobControl to trace the job that is going to be cut to show where job extends.
*Bitmap - Representation of an image as bits of information (pixels); used to allow logos/stencils to be changed into colors.
*Vector - Representation of an image as shapes, rather than bits; used to allow logos/stencils to be modified as objects.
*Trace Bitmap - Can be used on a bitmap to to turn it into a vector.
*Honeycomb Table - This is the honeycomb shaped metal tray that holds flat material during a cut. It is used for most cut jobs.
*Rotary Tool - When engraving water bottles or glasses, this accessory is used to hold the object in place as well as rotate it while performing a cut.

====Material Settings====

* '''[[Media:LICENSE KEY S3-4397.pdf|License Key Information]]'''
* '''[[Media:TrotecMaterials 2022.09.08 10.40.55.xml|Speedy 300 Material Settings 8 SEP 2022]]

====User Manual====

* '''[[Media:JobControl-Manual-EN.pdf|Job Control Operation Manual]]'''
* '''[[Media:8011-speedy300-manual-en.pdf|Speedy 300 Operation Manual]]'''

==Training==
====Operation====

Performing a cut or engrave with the laser will always begin with Inkscape by opening/importing an image, pdf, DXF, or similar file. If you do not have a file yet then it can also be used to create geometries. When you use SolidWorks to generate a .dxf file the correct face must be selected prior to saving the file. Once a file has been brought into Inkscape, it must be adjusted so that job control can distinguish between what should be cut out of the material and what should be engraved. A cut is indicated by a hairline red stroke (in the RGB color scheme) and an engrave is indicated by the color black. After the graphic is prepared, it is transferred to job control using [File] > [Print] and making sure trotec is selected as the device. It will then pop up in the job list on the right hand side of JobControl. At this point the laser cutter should be set up by turning it on, placing the material on the honeycomb table, and then raising the table to focus the laser. The final steps are then to click the USB icon in job control to connect to the laser cutter, drag the job onto the to scale honeycomb table, set the correct material properties, and then click the play button to perform the cut/engrave. When performing an engrave on a cylindrical object, the set up process in Inkscape is the same but there are a few differences in job control and laser cutter itself. Primarily, the honeycomb table must be exchanged for the rotary tool, which must be done while the laser cutter is OFF. The laser cutter should automatically recognize that the rotary is attached. The only change in job control is that the accessory should be changed in the settings from the honeycomb table to the rotary tool.
 
 
A Training Venture (TV) that uses the Laser Cutter is the [[Windchimes]]

====Demonstration====

First, import a George Fox logo into Inkscape and set it up so that the logo is an engrave with a cut circle surrounding it. Once this is done, print the job to job control and run the job on a piece of scrap material.

====General Procedure====
[[File:trotec_laser_engraving.mp4|thumb|none|400px|This video shows the complete process of completing an engrave. See below for details on doing this. ]]

#'''Setting up a Job'''
##First off, open a new document in Inkscape on your own machine or one of the lab computers (File > New, or Ctrl + N). Next, you’ll want to set the dimensions of your page by going to [File] > [Document Properties] (Ctrl + Shift + D). Your page can be as big as you like, as long as it’s larger than the shape you’re working with. However, always '''make sure that the document is square.''' There’s some weird quirk with the software that makes this necessary, keeping the document square will keep you from running into a lot of problems later on. Under the “Custom Size” section in document properties, set your hight and width to something larger than the longest dimension of your object. When you export the shape to the laser cutter, Inkscape will export anything within the document canvas and ignore anything that extends beyond it’s borders.
##Now you’re ready to create a shape to be cut or engraved. a.) If you’re importing a shape from SolidWorks, the file should be saved as a .DXF file. Simply drag the file onto your Inkscape document or import it via [File] > [Import] (Ctrl + I). If prompted to select scaling options, choose “read from file” and click OK. Next, select the object and go to [Object] > [Ungroup] (Ctrl + Shift + G). This will allow you to select the text objects that make up the SolidWorks watermark and delete them. While you’re here, make sure that there is only one copy of each line, as SolidWorks often likes to make duplicates. Finally, you may want to select all of the remaining objects and regroup them with [Object] > [Group] (Ctrl + G). Skip to step 5. b.) If you want to cut or engrave from an image, the best way to do so is from a vector image file. Vector graphics files store the lines, shapes, and colors that make up an image rather than storing data based on pixels as in a typical raster image. These lines, shapes, and colors is what the laser cutter interprets when cutting and engraving. If you’ve designed something in Adobe Illustrator, Inkscape, or other vector-based drawing applications, you can save your image directly to this format. If you’re looking for images online, search for vector images. These will most commonly be in the format of .SVG, .EPS, and some types of .PDF. You can import these types of images into your Inkscape document by simply dragging them onto the canvas or importing them via [File] > [Import] (Ctrl + I). Skip to step 5. c.) If you want to engrave or cut a raster (pixel-based) image, you will need to convert it to a vector shape. Drag your image onto the Inkscape canvas and proceed to step 3. [[File:...gfuLogo.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Inkscape can convert an image into vectors based on the composition of the source image. To do this, select your image, right click, and select Trace Bitmap, (Alt + Shift + B). You will be given several options shown below. Check the “Live Preview” box which will give you a better idea what’s going to happen. For the George Fox logo, we want to separate the colors from each other, so we’ll select “Colors” under the “Multiple Scans” section. The number of scans you specify correlates to the number of objects that Inkscape will create based on the different parts of the image. Since our example is a simple logo with 3 colors, 3 scans will be sufficient. Depending on your image, you’ll have to play around with these settings a bit. For a back and white image, you’ll probably want to use “Brightness Cuttoff” under “Single Scan” and adjust the “Threshold” value until the preview looks correct. Once you click OK, the vector will appear directly on top of the original image, so make sure to drag it off and move or delete the original image. [[File:...traceBitmap.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##You will now have a vector object that consists of several parts. Separate them by right-clicking the vector and selecting “Ungroup” (Ctrl + Shift + G). Now you’ll be able to alter each part of the object. In our example, we’ll go with the one on the right and delete the one on the left. [[File:...separateParts.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Now we can manipulate the colors. Select the object and go to [Object] > [Fill and Stroke] (usually it will already be open on the right sidebar). You will see Fill, Stroke Paint, and Stroke Style on the top right. Fill changes the color of a piece, Stroke Paint changes the color of a stroke, and Stroke Style changes the thickness and style of a stroke. You will see values for R, G, and B, which control color. When each color has a 0 next to it, it will be fully black. When the red has a 255 next to it and the others have 0, it will be fully red. The machine will cut material ONLY when it sees a stroke that is 255, 0, 0, and it will engrave material ONLY when it sees 0, 0, 0. Set these values on your object depending on what you want to engrave or cut, and make sure these values are exact before continuing. Anything that you do not want to cut or engrave, either delete or set to white, which is 255, 255, 255. Be sure to make each a “Flat Color” so that the color is constant throughout the entire object.
##Now that you have an object with the correct fill and stroke, you’ll want to resize it to the size you want. Select your object, and in the top bar of Inkscape you’ll see options for height and width. If you want to scale the object without altering it’s height and width ratios, lock the two together by clicking the lock icon. Measure your material and set the height and width accordingly, or set the values to your desired size. If you imported your file from SolidWorks you shouldn’t need to change these dimensions, just verify that they match the size of your object in SolidWorks. [[File:...Stroke.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Once you have finished your design, it’s time to send it to the Laser Cutter! Go to [File] > [Print] (Ctrl + P) and make sure it is sending to Trotec Engraver but do not click [OK] yet.
##Select [Preferences] to open the engraver properties. Check both “Take From Application” and “Minimize to Jobsize.” These settings tell the program to assume the canvas is the same size as it is in Inkscape and then crop to the size of your print. Also verify “Image Mode” is set to “Color” and “Enhanced Geometries” is not selected. '''NOTE''': “Take From Application” will only work if your Inkscape canvas is square. Make sure to set this correctly, or else set the print size to something larger than either dimension of your print (so long as “Minimize to Jobsize” is enabled.)[[File:...printing.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Save these settings by selecting the button that shows the JC logo near the bottom of the Printing Preferences and select Print to send the design to Job Control.
#'''Setting up the Laser Cutter'''
##Turn on the machine using the power switch located on the back of the machine in the left corner. The machine will go through a startup procedure where the cutting bed lowers and the laser travels to its home position. Note that the lid must be closed for the startup procedure to begin. You will hear be some beeping coming from the machine.
##Place your material onto the honeycomb table. '''ALWAYS''' place it in a corner, snug against two sides of the bed. This way if something doesn't go quite perfectly in the cutting process you can return the material back to that corner and try again without having to scrap the entire piece.
##Now it’s time to focus the laser onto your material. Begin by moving the laser head over the middle of your material. Place the focusing tool on the laser head and slowly raise the table until the the focusing tool just barely touches the material. Be sure to raise the bed extra slowly when approaching the focusing tool, so that you can stop the moment you are at the correct height. Use cation, as there is also no safety in place to prevent the material from crashing into the head and damaging this delicate, expensive assembly. The focusing tool will likely fall off the head; this is fine so long as you didn’t overshoot the point at which it first touched. Reference the images below for proper focusing tool placement and laser head controls.[[File:Laser Focus Tool.png|none|thumb|404x404px| Proper placement of the focusing tool. ]][[File:Laser Controls.png|none|thumb|296x296px| Laser control pad. (1) Raise and lower the bed. (2) Move the laser head (5) Air assist. Make sure it is always on to vent fumes properly. ]]
##Remove the focusing tool and return it to its home.
##Press the USB icon found in the bottom right corner of Job Control to connect to the laser cutter. The laser should beep a few times and then a the background of job control will change to a honeycomb pattern to represent the actual honeycomb table. Also, the USB icon will change to a play icon.
#'''Cutting with Job Control'''
##After you send your design to Job Control your design will be named with the name of your Inkscape file, which will appear in the “Jobs” window on the right. If you do not see your job (your design), be sure to select [See All] at the bottom of that window. This lets you see files ALL dpi types, rather than just a specific dpi type. You can check the print preview by double clicking the box showing your preview in the bottom right.
##Using the arrow keys on the laser cutter, move the head until the laser pointer is positioned on your material where you want a corner of your cut to begin. You’ll notice (assuming that you’ve connected the laser cutter to Job Control) that the curser moves within Job Control as you move the laser head.
##Double click/drag your job onto the honeycomb area and position it relative to the cursor. You’ll notice that the corners of your job will snap to the cursor.
##Move the laser head/cursor around to make sure your job fits onto the material you are using. Move the cursor to the opposite, diagonal corner from the one you started from and make sure that the laser head is not off an edge of the material.
##Then select your material at the top left. There are two dropdown menus, one for general material groups, and one for specific material profiles. These settings control the laser’s speed and power which are fine tuned for the material you select. [[File:Mitch5.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##To see the duration of the job, you can click the Update in the bottom left. You are ready to click the Play button in the bottom right. For bigger jobs, the Laser Cutter will take a little bit of time to read the design. If it does not start immediately, don’t be scared. Just be supportive and it will begin shortly. If it does not start at all, ask for help from the supervisor.
##Once the job starts, stay with it. Be sure it is actually engraving/cutting the material. Don’t open the lid (or even lean on it) as this causes the job to cancel without the ability to resume it. If the lasercutter is not doing what it should be click pause in the bottom right of Job Control, or stop it entirely with the stop button. Consult the supervisor for assistance. If something has gone very wrong, lifting the lid will immediately stop the machine, though this is not recommended under normal circumstances.[[File:Mitch6.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##After the job is completed reset the space by cleaning out any scrap materials from the bed and deleting the job from job control and Inkscape.
#'''Cutting with the Rotary Tool'''
##The Rotary Tool lets you cut and engrave cylindrical objects, the most popular of these being Hydroflasks. This part applies after you have already sent the file from Inkscape to the Laser Cutter.
##Turn OFF the machine, remove the honeycomb table, and plug in the rotary tool. The rest of the laser cutter setup is the same as above.
##To start off, go to Settings → Options → Hardware → Accessories. This is where you can switch from the HoneyComb Table to the Rotary Tool and vice versa.
##Enter the diameter of your bottle (using the Calipers in the lab), as it tells the Rotary Tool how fast to turn as it engraves. Do not mess this up, or you will have a stretched/squeezed image. [[File:Rotary 1.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##Once you click OK/apply, the window background will look like the image below.
##Double click/drag the job onto the window. It should automatically flip the image so that it will engrave in the proper orientation even though the bottle is held horizontally. [[File:Rotary2.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##Next, pick the material Hydroflask → Black Mug for a Hydroflask, or one of the glass profiles if engraving glass, and now you are ready to engrave your thing!
##When you are finished, RESET THE SPACE! Put the Rotary Tool away and replace it with the HoneyComb Table.

==Safety==

*Always make sure the material you are using is safe to use. There is an especially high risk when engraving plastics. Fumes from plastics can be toxic. Make sure you find the specific material you are using and check to see if it produces toxic fumes when burned. Never attempt to engrave PVC as it produces chlorine gas (the stuff they used in WWI).
*Once the laser is focused do not touch the button that raises the bed or the laser will crash into the machine which causes damage to the machine.
*Be careful when moving the laser head when using the rotary tool because it has protruding parts that will harm the laser cutter if a crash occurs.
*Keep an eye on active cuts because fires can be started when cutting wood or acrylic with paper covering.
*If you feel unsure about anything located in the laser cutting procedure make sure to consult the supervisor for assistance.

==Cut List==
===Approved Materials===
* Acrylic
* Wood
* Vegetable tanned leather

===DO NOT CUT===
* Any plastics containing PVC (polyvinyl chloride)
* Chrome tanned leather
* Hardboard (Masonite)

If you want to cut a material not listed here, please talk with the Maker Hub staff.

==Certification==
Complete the Prototype Lab - Laser Cutters (Speedy 300/400) Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}} (this module satisfies requirements for both the Speedy 300 and the Speedy 400). The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/G7CTPX Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
'''First of all, check your export settings'''

*There are multiple combinations of settings that will work for export; which means that depending on who was using the machine last, settings may be different. These are the settings I (the ace) have found to work most consistently: Set your Inkscape document to square by going to [File] > [Document Properties] ( Ctl+Shift+D) and set both the Height and Width fields to the same value, bigger than your shape. Why this is an issue is yet unknown, Inkscape just doesn’t like exporting non-square documents with the other settings to follow. Print the document with File > Print or Ctl+P. Click preferences and check both “Take From Application” and “Minimize to Jobsize.” These settings tell the program to assume the canvas is the same size as Inkscape and then crop to the size of your print. Also verify “image mode” is set to “color.” These settings will fix most common issues.

'''Cuts are not being made'''

*Some export settings may be incorrect. Verify that your settings are set to those described above. These settings will fix most issues of lines not cutting.
*Verify that all stokes are set to red with a stroke width between 1pt and .25pt (.25pt recommended)
*Verify that your print is entirely within the canvas of Inkscape.
*In Preferences, within Print options, verify “image mode” is set to “color.” Otherwise, your red stokes will not be read as color, and not be seen by the laser cutter.

'''The cuts did not go all the way through the material'''

*Are you using the correct material profile? If not, reset the job (described below) and repeat the cut with the correct material profile. If it appears that the cut went partway through the material you may want to use a setting that is less powerful than your material would normally use (again, described below)
*You should always place your material in a corner. This way, if the cuts do not go all the way through you can reposition it easily. DO NOT MOVE THE JOB in JobControl! If you put the material in a corner, should be able to place the material back where it was, and then reset the job in JobControl by right clicking on the job in JobControl and selecting the reset job option, or by pressing Ctl+R. Next, run the cut again on the smallest thickness setting for your material. For example, if you are cutting 1/4 inch acrylic and it does not cut all the way through, repeat the cut with the 1/8 inch acrylic setting.
*If you are using the correct material profile for your material and cuts are not going all the way through, please email me and let me know so that I can take a look and fix the settings. ZCogswell18@georgefox.edu

'''The laser went really fast leaving a sort of light engrave rather than a cut'''

*You did not select the correct material, and the job ran with the ‘standard’ setting. '''DO NOT MOVE THE MATERIAL!''' You can reset the job by right clicking on the job in Job Control and selecting the reset job option, or by pressing Ctl+R. Then, select the correct material in the upper left dropdown menu and run the job again. This way you do not need to reposition the material or job, which you will almost never do perfectly.

'''The laser repeated the cut multiple times'''

*Some material profiles, such as half-inch, acrylic are set to repeat the cut line multiple times, as to get a cleaner product. If the cuts look good, this is normal.
*Are you importing from SolidWorks? For some reason, SolidWorks likes to have duplicate lines quite often. In Inkscape, click on the cut that was repeated and drag to move it. If you move the line and another line is underneath, you need to delete all duplicates in the file. Often if you have a thin stoke (.25pt) and zoom out, the duplicate lines will be visually darker, allowing you to identify and delete them.

'''The acrylic is melted or blackened'''

*Verify that you are using the correct material profile. If you are, for example, cutting 1/4 acrylic with the 1/2 setting, the acrylic will be melted and not give clean cuts.
*Are you importing from SolidWorks? As mentioned above, “''For some reason, SolidWorks likes to have duplicate lines quite often. In Inkscape, click on the cut that was repeated and drag to move it. If you move the line and another line is underneath, you need to delete all duplicates in the file. Often if you have a thin stoke (.25pt) and zoom out, the duplicate lines will be visually darker, allowing you to identify and delete them.”''

'''Cuts are not clean'''

*Is the machine focused properly for your material? If you’re not sure, or even if you are (you may have bumped the bed control buttons accidentally) refocus it.
*Check the lens for dust because this can interfere with the laser. If it is dirty, see the maintenance section on how to clean it.

'''The material is being cut in unintended places'''

*Check your Inkscape file and make sure there are no red stokes in places you did not want
*Make sure there are no other jobs on the work area (grey rectangles in the honeycomb area of JobControl). If there are, drag them back into the list on the right side or delete them

'''Inkscape is not printing to JobControl'''

* If the status on the print window (in the "Select Printer" section, just below the printer options) says "Error" instead of "Ready," try the following:
** Start → Settings → Devices → Printers & scanners → Trotec Engraver v10.5.0 → Open queue → Printer → Cancel All Documents
*** Deleting all of the items from the queue will also work
* If the above does not work, contact the lab supervisors or Justin.

*

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

To keep the laser cutter running and cutting smoothly, the mirror and lens should be periodically cleaned. This is on top of the general cleaning that should be done to keep the machine dust and scrap free. There are also filters in the exhaust system that must be changed once the activated carbon has been used up.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Done
|-
|1
|General cleaning
|As needed after a cut
|Student
|N/A
|-
|2
|Clean the Mirror
|As needed
|Volunteer
|
|-
|3
|Clean the Lens
|As needed
|Volunteer
|
|-
|4
|Change Filters
|When filter usage reaches 100%
|Ace
|
|}

#The honeycomb should be removed and the metal bed itself should be should be swept/cleaned more or less daily. Cleaners are available to help in this process. Green is general cleaning use this for the bed and metal surfaces. Blue is glass cleaner, use this for the plexiglass surfaces. The front door of the Speedy 300 may be removed using the spring loaded pin on the right to remove cut pieces stuck in the door. The air vents at the rear of the machine should be kept clean of debris. Clean in a manner similar to the bed.
#The lense, mirror, and cone should be inspected daily or more often as needed, especially after wood or other “dusty”/”smokey” materials are cut. The lense will need cleaning when particles are visible on the surface (hold up to light if need be). The lense may be removed using the threaded nut below the lense (see photo). The lense should be cleaned with the lense paper and cleaner available in the kit (lasercutter drawer) on both sides. Put some cleaner on the lense and gently rub the paper over the surface of the lense. The cone itself threads into the assembly below the lense nut. The cone may be cleaned with a paper towel and water or another cleaning agent. The mirror should be inspected and cleaned in the same manner as the lense.
#See above.
#The air filter to the right of the Speedy 300 will occasionally need maintenance. The most common issue is a full pre-filter (P/N 37722). This will be indicated on the filter itself by poor airflow/suction. When replacing this, use a face mask and gloves (close the lab when doing this). Open the top of the air filter with the large 10mm hex wrench in the kit. Remove the prefilter and place it in a bag for disposal. Insert a new prefilter and close the lid. Pre-filters are used to increase the lifespan of other, harder to replace and more expensive filters in the system. Less often, other filters will need replacing. These include the larger box filter (P/N 41041), additional pre-filter-type mat filters, and activated carbon. This should not need to happen as often. Follow the above procedure for pre-filter and the [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJkCgAVbAEU&feature=youtu.be video] to replace the full filter setup. Be careful not to spill activate carbon if doing a full replacement, it is difficult to clean up.

Speedy 300

2023-09-18T17:36:43Z

Justinj:

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__TOC__

==Description==

The Trotec Speedy 300 laser engraver is used to engrave and cut materials based on specified images and shapes. This is useful for making enclosures out of acrylic, engraving designs into many materials, creating trophies, and cutting any two dimensional shape out of a variety of materials. It also has a rotary attachment which enables cylindrical objects such as drinking glasses and hydro flasks to be engraved with detailed designs.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qF8dHQPy6o}}[[File:Hydrowiki.jpg|thumb|400x400px|none|Example of an engraved Hydroflask. ]]

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

*Inkscape - The program you will be using to design is Inkscape. It allows you to type in words, edit logos, make your own logos and such to engrave or cut out of your material.
*Job Control - The program that interacts with the laser cutter to perform a cut. Job Control lets you set up/create Material Profiles, change between the HoneyComb Table and the Rotary tool (mostly used for Hydroflasks), and choose a location to cut on your material.

*Focusing tool - Used to focus the laser cutter.

*Stroke - This is the type of line that should be used when cutting.

*Repeat Cut Line - Can be used in JobControl to reproduce the same cut line that was just cut.
*Outline Job - Can be used in JobControl to trace the job that is going to be cut to show where job extends.
*Bitmap - Representation of an image as bits of information (pixels); used to allow logos/stencils to be changed into colors.
*Vector - Representation of an image as shapes, rather than bits; used to allow logos/stencils to be modified as objects.
*Trace Bitmap - Can be used on a bitmap to to turn it into a vector.
*Honeycomb Table - This is the honeycomb shaped metal tray that holds flat material during a cut. It is used for most cut jobs.
*Rotary Tool - When engraving water bottles or glasses, this accessory is used to hold the object in place as well as rotate it while performing a cut.

====Material Settings====

* '''[[Media:LICENSE KEY S3-4397.pdf|License Key Information]]'''
* '''[[Media:TrotecMaterials 2022.09.08 10.40.55.xml|Speedy 300 Material Settings 8 SEP 2022]]

====User Manual====

* '''[[Media:JobControl-Manual-EN.pdf|Job Control Operation Manual]]'''
* '''[[Media:8011-speedy300-manual-en.pdf|Speedy 300 Operation Manual]]'''

==Training==
====Operation====

Performing a cut or engrave with the laser will always begin with Inkscape by opening/importing an image, pdf, DXF, or similar file. If you do not have a file yet then it can also be used to create geometries. When you use SolidWorks to generate a .dxf file the correct face must be selected prior to saving the file. Once a file has been brought into Inkscape, it must be adjusted so that job control can distinguish between what should be cut out of the material and what should be engraved. A cut is indicated by a hairline red stroke (in the RGB color scheme) and an engrave is indicated by the color black. After the graphic is prepared, it is transferred to job control using [File] > [Print] and making sure trotec is selected as the device. It will then pop up in the job list on the right hand side of JobControl. At this point the laser cutter should be set up by turning it on, placing the material on the honeycomb table, and then raising the table to focus the laser. The final steps are then to click the USB icon in job control to connect to the laser cutter, drag the job onto the to scale honeycomb table, set the correct material properties, and then click the play button to perform the cut/engrave. When performing an engrave on a cylindrical object, the set up process in Inkscape is the same but there are a few differences in job control and laser cutter itself. Primarily, the honeycomb table must be exchanged for the rotary tool, which must be done while the laser cutter is OFF. The laser cutter should automatically recognize that the rotary is attached. The only change in job control is that the accessory should be changed in the settings from the honeycomb table to the rotary tool.
 
 
A Training Venture (TV) that uses the Laser Cutter is the [[Windchimes]]

====Demonstration====

First, import a George Fox logo into Inkscape and set it up so that the logo is an engrave with a cut circle surrounding it. Once this is done, print the job to job control and run the job on a piece of scrap material.

====General Procedure====
[[File:trotec_laser_engraving.mp4|thumb|none|400px|This video shows the complete process of completing an engrave. See below for details on doing this. ]]

#'''Setting up a Job'''
##First off, open a new document in Inkscape on your own machine or one of the lab computers (File > New, or Ctrl + N). Next, you’ll want to set the dimensions of your page by going to [File] > [Document Properties] (Ctrl + Shift + D). Your page can be as big as you like, as long as it’s larger than the shape you’re working with. However, always '''make sure that the document is square.''' There’s some weird quirk with the software that makes this necessary, keeping the document square will keep you from running into a lot of problems later on. Under the “Custom Size” section in document properties, set your hight and width to something larger than the longest dimension of your object. When you export the shape to the laser cutter, Inkscape will export anything within the document canvas and ignore anything that extends beyond it’s borders.
##Now you’re ready to create a shape to be cut or engraved. a.) If you’re importing a shape from SolidWorks, the file should be saved as a .DXF file. Simply drag the file onto your Inkscape document or import it via [File] > [Import] (Ctrl + I). If prompted to select scaling options, choose “read from file” and click OK. Next, select the object and go to [Object] > [Ungroup] (Ctrl + Shift + G). This will allow you to select the text objects that make up the SolidWorks watermark and delete them. While you’re here, make sure that there is only one copy of each line, as SolidWorks often likes to make duplicates. Finally, you may want to select all of the remaining objects and regroup them with [Object] > [Group] (Ctrl + G). Skip to step 5. b.) If you want to cut or engrave from an image, the best way to do so is from a vector image file. Vector graphics files store the lines, shapes, and colors that make up an image rather than storing data based on pixels as in a typical raster image. These lines, shapes, and colors is what the laser cutter interprets when cutting and engraving. If you’ve designed something in Adobe Illustrator, Inkscape, or other vector-based drawing applications, you can save your image directly to this format. If you’re looking for images online, search for vector images. These will most commonly be in the format of .SVG, .EPS, and some types of .PDF. You can import these types of images into your Inkscape document by simply dragging them onto the canvas or importing them via [File] > [Import] (Ctrl + I). Skip to step 5. c.) If you want to engrave or cut a raster (pixel-based) image, you will need to convert it to a vector shape. Drag your image onto the Inkscape canvas and proceed to step 3. [[File:...gfuLogo.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Inkscape can convert an image into vectors based on the composition of the source image. To do this, select your image, right click, and select Trace Bitmap, (Alt + Shift + B). You will be given several options shown below. Check the “Live Preview” box which will give you a better idea what’s going to happen. For the George Fox logo, we want to separate the colors from each other, so we’ll select “Colors” under the “Multiple Scans” section. The number of scans you specify correlates to the number of objects that Inkscape will create based on the different parts of the image. Since our example is a simple logo with 3 colors, 3 scans will be sufficient. Depending on your image, you’ll have to play around with these settings a bit. For a back and white image, you’ll probably want to use “Brightness Cuttoff” under “Single Scan” and adjust the “Threshold” value until the preview looks correct. Once you click OK, the vector will appear directly on top of the original image, so make sure to drag it off and move or delete the original image. [[File:...traceBitmap.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##You will now have a vector object that consists of several parts. Separate them by right-clicking the vector and selecting “Ungroup” (Ctrl + Shift + G). Now you’ll be able to alter each part of the object. In our example, we’ll go with the one on the right and delete the one on the left. [[File:...separateParts.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Now we can manipulate the colors. Select the object and go to [Object] > [Fill and Stroke] (usually it will already be open on the right sidebar). You will see Fill, Stroke Paint, and Stroke Style on the top right. Fill changes the color of a piece, Stroke Paint changes the color of a stroke, and Stroke Style changes the thickness and style of a stroke. You will see values for R, G, and B, which control color. When each color has a 0 next to it, it will be fully black. When the red has a 255 next to it and the others have 0, it will be fully red. The machine will cut material ONLY when it sees a stroke that is 255, 0, 0, and it will engrave material ONLY when it sees 0, 0, 0. Set these values on your object depending on what you want to engrave or cut, and make sure these values are exact before continuing. Anything that you do not want to cut or engrave, either delete or set to white, which is 255, 255, 255. Be sure to make each a “Flat Color” so that the color is constant throughout the entire object.
##Now that you have an object with the correct fill and stroke, you’ll want to resize it to the size you want. Select your object, and in the top bar of Inkscape you’ll see options for height and width. If you want to scale the object without altering it’s height and width ratios, lock the two together by clicking the lock icon. Measure your material and set the height and width accordingly, or set the values to your desired size. If you imported your file from SolidWorks you shouldn’t need to change these dimensions, just verify that they match the size of your object in SolidWorks. [[File:...Stroke.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Once you have finished your design, it’s time to send it to the Laser Cutter! Go to [File] > [Print] (Ctrl + P) and make sure it is sending to Trotec Engraver but do not click [OK] yet.
##Select [Preferences] to open the engraver properties. Check both “Take From Application” and “Minimize to Jobsize.” These settings tell the program to assume the canvas is the same size as it is in Inkscape and then crop to the size of your print. Also verify “Image Mode” is set to “Color” and “Enhanced Geometries” is not selected. '''NOTE''': “Take From Application” will only work if your Inkscape canvas is square. Make sure to set this correctly, or else set the print size to something larger than either dimension of your print (so long as “Minimize to Jobsize” is enabled.)[[File:...printing.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Save these settings by selecting the button that shows the JC logo near the bottom of the Printing Preferences and select Print to send the design to Job Control.
#'''Setting up the Laser Cutter'''
##Turn on the machine using the power switch located on the back of the machine in the left corner. The machine will go through a startup procedure where the cutting bed lowers and the laser travels to its home position. Note that the lid must be closed for the startup procedure to begin. You will hear be some beeping coming from the machine.
##Place your material onto the honeycomb table. '''ALWAYS''' place it in a corner, snug against two sides of the bed. This way if something doesn't go quite perfectly in the cutting process you can return the material back to that corner and try again without having to scrap the entire piece.
##Now it’s time to focus the laser onto your material. Begin by moving the laser head over the middle of your material. Place the focusing tool on the laser head and slowly raise the table until the the focusing tool just barely touches the material. Be sure to raise the bed extra slowly when approaching the focusing tool, so that you can stop the moment you are at the correct height. Use cation, as there is also no safety in place to prevent the material from crashing into the head and damaging this delicate, expensive assembly. The focusing tool will likely fall off the head; this is fine so long as you didn’t overshoot the point at which it first touched. Reference the images below for proper focusing tool placement and laser head controls.[[File:Laser Focus Tool.png|none|thumb|404x404px| Proper placement of the focusing tool. ]][[File:Laser Controls.png|none|thumb|296x296px| Laser control pad. (1) Raise and lower the bed. (2) Move the laser head (5) Air assist. Make sure it is always on to vent fumes properly. ]]
##Remove the focusing tool and return it to its home.
##Press the USB icon found in the bottom right corner of Job Control to connect to the laser cutter. The laser should beep a few times and then a the background of job control will change to a honeycomb pattern to represent the actual honeycomb table. Also, the USB icon will change to a play icon.
#'''Cutting with Job Control'''
##After you send your design to Job Control your design will be named with the name of your Inkscape file, which will appear in the “Jobs” window on the right. If you do not see your job (your design), be sure to select [See All] at the bottom of that window. This lets you see files ALL dpi types, rather than just a specific dpi type. You can check the print preview by double clicking the box showing your preview in the bottom right.
##Using the arrow keys on the laser cutter, move the head until the laser pointer is positioned on your material where you want a corner of your cut to begin. You’ll notice (assuming that you’ve connected the laser cutter to Job Control) that the curser moves within Job Control as you move the laser head.
##Double click/drag your job onto the honeycomb area and position it relative to the cursor. You’ll notice that the corners of your job will snap to the cursor.
##Move the laser head/cursor around to make sure your job fits onto the material you are using. Move the cursor to the opposite, diagonal corner from the one you started from and make sure that the laser head is not off an edge of the material.
##Then select your material at the top left. There are two dropdown menus, one for general material groups, and one for specific material profiles. These settings control the laser’s speed and power which are fine tuned for the material you select. [[File:Mitch5.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##To see the duration of the job, you can click the Update in the bottom left. You are ready to click the Play button in the bottom right. For bigger jobs, the Laser Cutter will take a little bit of time to read the design. If it does not start immediately, don’t be scared. Just be supportive and it will begin shortly. If it does not start at all, ask for help from the supervisor.
##Once the job starts, stay with it. Be sure it is actually engraving/cutting the material. Don’t open the lid (or even lean on it) as this causes the job to cancel without the ability to resume it. If the lasercutter is not doing what it should be click pause in the bottom right of Job Control, or stop it entirely with the stop button. Consult the supervisor for assistance. If something has gone very wrong, lifting the lid will immediately stop the machine, though this is not recommended under normal circumstances.[[File:Mitch6.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##After the job is completed reset the space by cleaning out any scrap materials from the bed and deleting the job from job control and Inkscape.
#'''Cutting with the Rotary Tool'''
##The Rotary Tool lets you cut and engrave cylindrical objects, the most popular of these being Hydroflasks. This part applies after you have already sent the file from Inkscape to the Laser Cutter.
##Turn OFF the machine, remove the honeycomb table, and plug in the rotary tool. The rest of the laser cutter setup is the same as above.
##To start off, go to Settings → Options → Hardware → Accessories. This is where you can switch from the HoneyComb Table to the Rotary Tool and vice versa.
##Enter the diameter of your bottle (using the Calipers in the lab), as it tells the Rotary Tool how fast to turn as it engraves. Do not mess this up, or you will have a stretched/squeezed image. [[File:Rotary 1.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##Once you click OK/apply, the window background will look like the image below.
##Double click/drag the job onto the window. It should automatically flip the image so that it will engrave in the proper orientation even though the bottle is held horizontally. [[File:Rotary2.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##Next, pick the material Hydroflask → Black Mug for a Hydroflask, or one of the glass profiles if engraving glass, and now you are ready to engrave your thing!
##When you are finished, RESET THE SPACE! Put the Rotary Tool away and replace it with the HoneyComb Table.

==Safety==

*Always make sure the material you are using is safe to use. There is an especially high risk when engraving plastics. Fumes from plastics can be toxic. Make sure you find the specific material you are using and check to see if it produces toxic fumes when burned. Never attempt to engrave PVC as it produces chlorine gas (the stuff they used in WWI).
*Once the laser is focused do not touch the button that raises the bed or the laser will crash into the machine which causes damage to the machine.
*Be careful when moving the laser head when using the rotary tool because it has protruding parts that will harm the laser cutter if a crash occurs.
*Keep an eye on active cuts because fires can be started when cutting wood or acrylic with paper covering.
*If you feel unsure about anything located in the laser cutting procedure make sure to consult the supervisor for assistance.

==Cut List==
===Approved Materials===
* Acrylic
* Wood
* Vegetable tanned leather

===DO NOT CUT===
* Any plastics containing PVC (polyvinyl chloride)
* Chrome tanned leather
* Hardboard (Masonite)

If you want to cut a material not listed here, please talk with the Maker Hub staff.

==Certification==
Complete the Prototype Lab - Laser Cutters (Speedy 300/400) Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}} (this module satisfies requirements for both the Speedy 300 and the Speedy 400). The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/G7CTPX Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
'''First of all, check your export settings'''

*There are multiple combinations of settings that will work for export; which means that depending on who was using the machine last, settings may be different. These are the settings I (the ace) have found to work most consistently: Set your Inkscape document to square by going to [File] > [Document Properties] ( Ctl+Shift+D) and set both the Height and Width fields to the same value, bigger than your shape. Why this is an issue is yet unknown, Inkscape just doesn’t like exporting non-square documents with the other settings to follow. Print the document with File > Print or Ctl+P. Click preferences and check both “Take From Application” and “Minimize to Jobsize.” These settings tell the program to assume the canvas is the same size as Inkscape and then crop to the size of your print. Also verify “image mode” is set to “color.” These settings will fix most common issues.

'''Cuts are not being made'''

*Some export settings may be incorrect. Verify that your settings are set to those described above. These settings will fix most issues of lines not cutting.
*Verify that all stokes are set to red with a stroke width between 1pt and .25pt (.25pt recommended)
*Verify that your print is entirely within the canvas of Inkscape.
*In Preferences, within Print options, verify “image mode” is set to “color.” Otherwise, your red stokes will not be read as color, and not be seen by the laser cutter.

'''The cuts did not go all the way through the material'''

*Are you using the correct material profile? If not, reset the job (described below) and repeat the cut with the correct material profile. If it appears that the cut went partway through the material you may want to use a setting that is less powerful than your material would normally use (again, described below)
*You should always place your material in a corner. This way, if the cuts do not go all the way through you can reposition it easily. DO NOT MOVE THE JOB in JobControl! If you put the material in a corner, should be able to place the material back where it was, and then reset the job in JobControl by right clicking on the job in JobControl and selecting the reset job option, or by pressing Ctl+R. Next, run the cut again on the smallest thickness setting for your material. For example, if you are cutting 1/4 inch acrylic and it does not cut all the way through, repeat the cut with the 1/8 inch acrylic setting.
*If you are using the correct material profile for your material and cuts are not going all the way through, please email me and let me know so that I can take a look and fix the settings. ZCogswell18@georgefox.edu

'''The laser went really fast leaving a sort of light engrave rather than a cut'''

*You did not select the correct material, and the job ran with the ‘standard’ setting. '''DO NOT MOVE THE MATERIAL!''' You can reset the job by right clicking on the job in Job Control and selecting the reset job option, or by pressing Ctl+R. Then, select the correct material in the upper left dropdown menu and run the job again. This way you do not need to reposition the material or job, which you will almost never do perfectly.

'''The laser repeated the cut multiple times'''

*Some material profiles, such as half-inch, acrylic are set to repeat the cut line multiple times, as to get a cleaner product. If the cuts look good, this is normal.
*Are you importing from SolidWorks? For some reason, SolidWorks likes to have duplicate lines quite often. In Inkscape, click on the cut that was repeated and drag to move it. If you move the line and another line is underneath, you need to delete all duplicates in the file. Often if you have a thin stoke (.25pt) and zoom out, the duplicate lines will be visually darker, allowing you to identify and delete them.

'''The acrylic is melted or blackened'''

*Verify that you are using the correct material profile. If you are, for example, cutting 1/4 acrylic with the 1/2 setting, the acrylic will be melted and not give clean cuts.
*Are you importing from SolidWorks? As mentioned above, “''For some reason, SolidWorks likes to have duplicate lines quite often. In Inkscape, click on the cut that was repeated and drag to move it. If you move the line and another line is underneath, you need to delete all duplicates in the file. Often if you have a thin stoke (.25pt) and zoom out, the duplicate lines will be visually darker, allowing you to identify and delete them.”''

'''Cuts are not clean'''

*Is the machine focused properly for your material? If you’re not sure, or even if you are (you may have bumped the bed control buttons accidentally) refocus it.
*Check the lens for dust because this can interfere with the laser. If it is dirty, see the maintenance section on how to clean it.

'''The material is being cut in unintended places'''

*Check your Inkscape file and make sure there are no red stokes in places you did not want
*Make sure there are no other jobs on the work area (grey rectangles in the honeycomb area of JobControl). If there are, drag them back into the list on the right side or delete them

'''Inkscape is not printing to JobControl'''

* If the status on the print window (in the "Select Printer" section, just below the printer options) says "Error" instead of "Ready," try the following:
** Start → Settings → Devices → Printers & scanners → Trotec Engraver v10.5.0 → Open queue → Printer → Cancel All Documents
*** Deleting all of the items from the queue will also work
* If the above does not work, contact the lab supervisors or Justin.

*

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

To keep the laser cutter running and cutting smoothly, the mirror and lens should be periodically cleaned. This is on top of the general cleaning that should be done to keep the machine dust and scrap free. There are also filters in the exhaust system that must be changed once the activated carbon has been used up.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Done
|-
|1
|General cleaning
|As needed after a cut
|Student
|N/A
|-
|2
|Clean the Mirror
|As needed
|Volunteer
|
|-
|3
|Clean the Lens
|As needed
|Volunteer
|
|-
|4
|Change Filters
|When filter usage reaches 100%
|Ace
|
|}

#The honeycomb should be removed and the metal bed itself should be should be swept/cleaned more or less daily. Cleaners are available to help in this process. Green is general cleaning use this for the bed and metal surfaces. Blue is glass cleaner, use this for the plexiglass surfaces. The front door of the Speedy 300 may be removed using the spring loaded pin on the right to remove cut pieces stuck in the door. The air vents at the rear of the machine should be kept clean of debris. Clean in a manner similar to the bed.
#The lense, mirror, and cone should be inspected daily or more often as needed, especially after wood or other “dusty”/”smokey” materials are cut. The lense will need cleaning when particles are visible on the surface (hold up to light if need be). The lense may be removed using the threaded nut below the lense (see photo). The lense should be cleaned with the lense paper and cleaner available in the kit (lasercutter drawer) on both sides. Put some cleaner on the lense and gently rub the paper over the surface of the lense. The cone itself threads into the assembly below the lense nut. The cone may be cleaned with a paper towel and water or another cleaning agent. The mirror should be inspected and cleaned in the same manner as the lense.
#See above.
#The air filter to the right of the Speedy 300 will occasionally need maintenance. The most common issue is a full pre-filter (P/N 37722). This will be indicated on the filter itself by poor airflow/suction. When replacing this, use a face mask and gloves (close the lab when doing this). Open the top of the air filter with the large 10mm hex wrench in the kit. Remove the prefilter and place it in a bag for disposal. Insert a new prefilter and close the lid. Pre-filters are used to increase the lifespan of other, harder to replace and more expensive filters in the system. Less often, other filters will need replacing. These include the larger box filter (P/N 41041), additional pre-filter-type mat filters, and activated carbon. This should not need to happen as often. Follow the above procedure for pre-filter and the [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJkCgAVbAEU&feature=youtu.be video] to replace the full filter setup. Be careful not to spill activate carbon if doing a full replacement, it is difficult to clean up.

Router Table

2023-03-14T20:20:47Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=SawStop/Bora Portamate Motor
|Has model= RT-LFT 4-Post
|Has serial number=107015
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File:Router Table Icon 2.png
|Has icondesc=Router Table Icon 2.png
|Has iconwname=Router Table Icon 2.png
|Has image=File:Router Table.jpg
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1212
|Has ace=Needed;gdowler@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|400px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Safety==
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]
Although the router table displays the SawStop logo, it does not have the SawStop technology. If your fingers come in contact with the spinning bit, the bit will not stop and it will be a very bad day for you. Remember... SAFETY FIRST!

* Always wear safety glasses in the wood shop and wear hearing protection as applicable.
* Always unplug the router table when changing the bit.
* Leave an eighth inch gap of exposed shank when mounting the bit in the collet.
* Lock the height adjustment before turning on the router table.
* Use the available feather boards and push blocks to keep your hands away from the spinning bit.
* When using the fence, always move your workpiece from right to left.
* Never position the fence so that the workpiece travels between the router bit and the fence.
* The material you are cutting needs to be free from nails, screws, staples, or other foreign objects.

==Description==

A router table can be used to make custom moldings and make slots in workpieces. Router tables are extremely versatile in the types of cuts they can perform. Holes and channels of varying depths and nearly limitless shapes can be cut. The router table can also use special bits to cut bevels and chamfers along the edges of a workpiece.

Introductory Video
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EnPZofVCRE}}

Things you can do with a router table
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jamwRhQTJbA}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Each bit is made for a different job. The wood shop has a wide assortment, although less common types may be unavailable. It should be noted that different bit sizes and profiles will operate better at different speeds. A good rule of thumb for setting the router bit speed is: the larger the cutter the slower the speed. Usually the router table will be set to 20000 RPM. If you plan to use a larger bit and reduce the speed of the router, ask a shop supervisor for assistance.
[[File:Router Bit Chart.jpg|500px|right]]
[[Image:RouterBits.jpg|500px|none]]

Definitions

[[Media:Portamate-PM-P254-Variable-Speed-3-1-4-HP-Router-Motor-Instructions.pdf|Router Table User Manual]]

==Training==

===Operation===
[[File:Router Feed Direction.jpg|500px|right]][[File:Router Incorrect Feed Direction.jpg|500px|right]]

====Changing a Bit====

Always unplug the router before changing a bit.

Always raise the router collet above the throat plate when changing bits. Insert the bit until the cutting edge touches the collet then pull the bit out about an eighth inch and finger tighten the collet. It’s important to allow an eighth inch of space between the bit and the collet. Router bits can heat up quickly when in use. This heat causes expansion, and the eighth inch space between the bit and the collet allows for this expansion. Router bits that are not installed properly can come loose while making your cut.

Use the two wrenches to tighten the locking nut on the collet.

====Setting the Fence====

When setting the fence, the router fence does not need to be exactly parallel to the bit for most cuts. Usually, a router bit’s performance is not affected by the angle of the fence. This differs greatly from equipment like the table saw or bandsaw which have flat blades instead of a rounded bit. The important thing is to set the fence the proper distance away from the bit, and the bit will do the rest work.

If your bit has a bearing guide, lay a straightedge against the fence and adjust it until there’s a paper-thin space between the outer edge of the bearing and the straightedge.

====Feed Direction====

When using the fence, always feed the workpiece from the right side of the router table to the left. The bit spins counterclockwise. Always push the workpiece against the cutter’s rotation. The force generated by the bit’s rotation helps push the workpiece against the fence. This is the proper way to make a controlled cut on the router table. It is dangerous to feed the workpiece from left to right because the router bit will pull the workpiece out of your hands and fling it across the room.

The feed rate is how fast the workpiece moves through the router bit. A feed rate that is too fast can cause the surface of the wood to tearout. In other words, you will get a poor cut and the surface of the wood will be rough or chipped. A feed rate that is too slow can cause the wood to burn. See the troubleshooting section for more info on burning.

====Material Removal====

Be mindful of how much material you are removing in a single pass. If you attempt to remove too much material, you could end up straining the router motor, putting too much sideways pressure on the router bit, or cause tearout/burning on your workpiece. If you need to remove a lot of material, break it up into multiple smaller passes. If you are unsure how much material is "too much," ask a shop supervisor for assistance. Unfortunately, there is no magic number that indicates you are removing too much material. It's based on several factors including: the cross-sectional area of the material you plan to remove, the shape of the router bit, the speed of the router bit, and the hardness of the wood. With some experience, you will get a feel for how much material you can remove in a single pass.

===Demonstration===

Demonstrate you can safely setup the router table with a roundover bit. Remember to always unplug the router when changing tools or making adjustments to prevent an accidental turn-on situation. Perform a roundover cut on a piece of scrap wood.

===General Procedure===

Keep in mind as you use the router table that the motor has a soft-start feature. This means that the router bit will take a couple seconds to get up to speed. Don't start feeding your workpiece until the motor reaches steady state. Also, keep in mind that the router bit will coast down after it is turned off.

Long and narrow stock is easily machined on a router table. Featherboards make it even easier; they hold the stock tight against the surface of the fence and table and let you can concentrate on a steady, even feed rate. In general, a router table will help you work with stock of dimensions that don't lend themselves to handheld router work. Long, narrow stock, such as that used to make moldings and trim are nearly impossible to work with a handheld router. Edge profiling a few hundred feet of a particular door or base molding could probably be done with handheld router and the aid of special shop-built rigging, but dong so would be an extremely inefficient choice, when a router table makes long runs of narrow stock routine. Small pieces of stock are also a challenge to work with a handheld router. Handheld work on small parts often involves a difficult balancing act. You have to keep the router perfectly upright on stock that doesn't do a good job of supporting the router base. To compound the problem, you have to have a way of holding the stock itself in place while you work. A router table leaves both of your hands free to hold on to small parts while the table surface provides a sturdy, flat support for the entire surface of the workpiece.

Trimming the edge of a piece of stock to a flat, smooth, square surface or exactly following the contour of a pattern is one of the router's specialties. Attaching a straightedge or a template to a piece of stock is one of the quickest and most effective ways to clean up an edge, or to perfectly and repeatedly form the arched top of a frame and panel door or any other curved part. Using a router table for edge trimming and pattern work speeds the process by eliminating the need to hold both the workpiece and the pattern down while you make the cut.
[[File:Wide Groove Router Table.png|500px|right]]
Cutting grooves, slots, dadoes and rabbets, sliding dovetails, mortises and tenons are all part of the router tables stock in trade. If you need to cut a wide groove, click on the image to the right. Start with the inside edge. To avoid a climb cut, consider the second cut when positioning the fence for the first. Push the fence back, then rout the rest. By routing the outer side, the bit continues to push the work against the fence.

Many woodworking operations call for stopped cuts - cuts that do not continue for the entire length of the stock. Stopped cuts can be either decorative, like a chamfer that begins and ends at a certain point on a table leg, or functional, as in the case of a mortise or a half blind dovetail pin. A router table can be set up in seconds to perform a stopped cut; the same operation with a handheld router or a table saw is often extremely cumbersome or dangerous.

==Certification==
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1212 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==

Occasionally routing can leave burn marks on the workpiece. This can happen when the workpiece is fed through the router too slowly, but it can also mean that the bit in the router has become dull. Let a shop supervisor know if a bit seems dull. Sometimes the burning is due to build up of resin and other gunk (a technical term) on the backside of the cutter which insulates the bit and allows for more heat to build up. Inspect the router bit before using, and make sure it looks clean. If the bit seems both clean and sharp, the cause of burning on your workpiece is either a feed rate that is too slow or a router bit speed that is too high.

If you are shaping end grain with a router table, use a square push block behind your workpiece to support the trailing edge and prevent tearout.

As a general rule, the miter gauge should not be used on the router table. But, if you have a special cut where you think the miter gauge would help, talk to the wood shop staff about setting it up.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

* Make sure cutter bits are clean.
* Remove and clean the collets as needed.
* Make sure any adjustment screws are tight.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Clean out router box
|As needed
|Technician
|}

Router Table

2023-03-14T20:14:47Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=SawStop
|Has model= RT-LFT 4-Post
|Has serial number=107015
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File:Router Table Icon 2.png
|Has icondesc=Router Table Icon 2.png
|Has iconwname=Router Table Icon 2.png
|Has image=File:Router Table.jpg
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1212
|Has ace=Needed;gdowler@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|400px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Safety==
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]
Although the router table displays the SawStop logo, it does not have the SawStop technology. If your fingers come in contact with the spinning bit, the bit will not stop and it will be a very bad day for you. Remember... SAFETY FIRST!

* Always wear safety glasses in the wood shop and wear hearing protection as applicable.
* Always unplug the router table when changing the bit.
* Leave an eighth inch gap of exposed shank when mounting the bit in the collet.
* Lock the height adjustment before turning on the router table.
* Use the available feather boards and push blocks to keep your hands away from the spinning bit.
* When using the fence, always move your workpiece from right to left.
* Never position the fence so that the workpiece travels between the router bit and the fence.
* The material you are cutting needs to be free from nails, screws, staples, or other foreign objects.

==Description==

A router table can be used to make custom moldings and make slots in workpieces. Router tables are extremely versatile in the types of cuts they can perform. Holes and channels of varying depths and nearly limitless shapes can be cut. The router table can also use special bits to cut bevels and chamfers along the edges of a workpiece.

Introductory Video
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EnPZofVCRE}}

Things you can do with a router table
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jamwRhQTJbA}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Each bit is made for a different job. The wood shop has a wide assortment, although less common types may be unavailable. It should be noted that different bit sizes and profiles will operate better at different speeds. A good rule of thumb for setting the router bit speed is: the larger the cutter the slower the speed. Usually the router table will be set to 20000 RPM. If you plan to use a larger bit and reduce the speed of the router, ask a shop supervisor for assistance.
[[File:Router Bit Chart.jpg|500px|right]]
[[Image:RouterBits.jpg|500px|none]]

Definitions

[[Media:Portamate-PM-P254-Variable-Speed-3-1-4-HP-Router-Motor-Instructions.pdf|Router Table User Manual]]

==Training==

===Operation===
[[File:Router Feed Direction.jpg|500px|right]][[File:Router Incorrect Feed Direction.jpg|500px|right]]

====Changing a Bit====

Always unplug the router before changing a bit.

Always raise the router collet above the throat plate when changing bits. Insert the bit until the cutting edge touches the collet then pull the bit out about an eighth inch and finger tighten the collet. It’s important to allow an eighth inch of space between the bit and the collet. Router bits can heat up quickly when in use. This heat causes expansion, and the eighth inch space between the bit and the collet allows for this expansion. Router bits that are not installed properly can come loose while making your cut.

Use the two wrenches to tighten the locking nut on the collet.

====Setting the Fence====

When setting the fence, the router fence does not need to be exactly parallel to the bit for most cuts. Usually, a router bit’s performance is not affected by the angle of the fence. This differs greatly from equipment like the table saw or bandsaw which have flat blades instead of a rounded bit. The important thing is to set the fence the proper distance away from the bit, and the bit will do the rest work.

If your bit has a bearing guide, lay a straightedge against the fence and adjust it until there’s a paper-thin space between the outer edge of the bearing and the straightedge.

====Feed Direction====

When using the fence, always feed the workpiece from the right side of the router table to the left. The bit spins counterclockwise. Always push the workpiece against the cutter’s rotation. The force generated by the bit’s rotation helps push the workpiece against the fence. This is the proper way to make a controlled cut on the router table. It is dangerous to feed the workpiece from left to right because the router bit will pull the workpiece out of your hands and fling it across the room.

The feed rate is how fast the workpiece moves through the router bit. A feed rate that is too fast can cause the surface of the wood to tearout. In other words, you will get a poor cut and the surface of the wood will be rough or chipped. A feed rate that is too slow can cause the wood to burn. See the troubleshooting section for more info on burning.

====Material Removal====

Be mindful of how much material you are removing in a single pass. If you attempt to remove too much material, you could end up straining the router motor, putting too much sideways pressure on the router bit, or cause tearout/burning on your workpiece. If you need to remove a lot of material, break it up into multiple smaller passes. If you are unsure how much material is "too much," ask a shop supervisor for assistance. Unfortunately, there is no magic number that indicates you are removing too much material. It's based on several factors including: the cross-sectional area of the material you plan to remove, the shape of the router bit, the speed of the router bit, and the hardness of the wood. With some experience, you will get a feel for how much material you can remove in a single pass.

===Demonstration===

Demonstrate you can safely setup the router table with a roundover bit. Remember to always unplug the router when changing tools or making adjustments to prevent an accidental turn-on situation. Perform a roundover cut on a piece of scrap wood.

===General Procedure===

Keep in mind as you use the router table that the motor has a soft-start feature. This means that the router bit will take a couple seconds to get up to speed. Don't start feeding your workpiece until the motor reaches steady state. Also, keep in mind that the router bit will coast down after it is turned off.

Long and narrow stock is easily machined on a router table. Featherboards make it even easier; they hold the stock tight against the surface of the fence and table and let you can concentrate on a steady, even feed rate. In general, a router table will help you work with stock of dimensions that don't lend themselves to handheld router work. Long, narrow stock, such as that used to make moldings and trim are nearly impossible to work with a handheld router. Edge profiling a few hundred feet of a particular door or base molding could probably be done with handheld router and the aid of special shop-built rigging, but dong so would be an extremely inefficient choice, when a router table makes long runs of narrow stock routine. Small pieces of stock are also a challenge to work with a handheld router. Handheld work on small parts often involves a difficult balancing act. You have to keep the router perfectly upright on stock that doesn't do a good job of supporting the router base. To compound the problem, you have to have a way of holding the stock itself in place while you work. A router table leaves both of your hands free to hold on to small parts while the table surface provides a sturdy, flat support for the entire surface of the workpiece.

Trimming the edge of a piece of stock to a flat, smooth, square surface or exactly following the contour of a pattern is one of the router's specialties. Attaching a straightedge or a template to a piece of stock is one of the quickest and most effective ways to clean up an edge, or to perfectly and repeatedly form the arched top of a frame and panel door or any other curved part. Using a router table for edge trimming and pattern work speeds the process by eliminating the need to hold both the workpiece and the pattern down while you make the cut.
[[File:Wide Groove Router Table.png|500px|right]]
Cutting grooves, slots, dadoes and rabbets, sliding dovetails, mortises and tenons are all part of the router tables stock in trade. If you need to cut a wide groove, click on the image to the right. Start with the inside edge. To avoid a climb cut, consider the second cut when positioning the fence for the first. Push the fence back, then rout the rest. By routing the outer side, the bit continues to push the work against the fence.

Many woodworking operations call for stopped cuts - cuts that do not continue for the entire length of the stock. Stopped cuts can be either decorative, like a chamfer that begins and ends at a certain point on a table leg, or functional, as in the case of a mortise or a half blind dovetail pin. A router table can be set up in seconds to perform a stopped cut; the same operation with a handheld router or a table saw is often extremely cumbersome or dangerous.

==Certification==
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1212 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==

Occasionally routing can leave burn marks on the workpiece. This can happen when the workpiece is fed through the router too slowly, but it can also mean that the bit in the router has become dull. Let a shop supervisor know if a bit seems dull. Sometimes the burning is due to build up of resin and other gunk (a technical term) on the backside of the cutter which insulates the bit and allows for more heat to build up. Inspect the router bit before using, and make sure it looks clean. If the bit seems both clean and sharp, the cause of burning on your workpiece is either a feed rate that is too slow or a router bit speed that is too high.

If you are shaping end grain with a router table, use a square push block behind your workpiece to support the trailing edge and prevent tearout.

As a general rule, the miter gauge should not be used on the router table. But, if you have a special cut where you think the miter gauge would help, talk to the wood shop staff about setting it up.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

* Make sure cutter bits are clean.
* Remove and clean the collets as needed.
* Make sure any adjustment screws are tight.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Clean out router box
|As needed
|Technician
|}

Router Table

2023-03-14T20:13:03Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=SawStop
|Has model=PM-P254
|Has serial number=107015
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File:Router Table Icon 2.png
|Has icondesc=Router Table Icon 2.png
|Has iconwname=Router Table Icon 2.png
|Has image=File:Router Table.jpg
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1212
|Has ace=Needed;gdowler@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|400px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Safety==
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]
Although the router table displays the SawStop logo, it does not have the SawStop technology. If your fingers come in contact with the spinning bit, the bit will not stop and it will be a very bad day for you. Remember... SAFETY FIRST!

* Always wear safety glasses in the wood shop and wear hearing protection as applicable.
* Always unplug the router table when changing the bit.
* Leave an eighth inch gap of exposed shank when mounting the bit in the collet.
* Lock the height adjustment before turning on the router table.
* Use the available feather boards and push blocks to keep your hands away from the spinning bit.
* When using the fence, always move your workpiece from right to left.
* Never position the fence so that the workpiece travels between the router bit and the fence.
* The material you are cutting needs to be free from nails, screws, staples, or other foreign objects.

==Description==

A router table can be used to make custom moldings and make slots in workpieces. Router tables are extremely versatile in the types of cuts they can perform. Holes and channels of varying depths and nearly limitless shapes can be cut. The router table can also use special bits to cut bevels and chamfers along the edges of a workpiece.

Introductory Video
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EnPZofVCRE}}

Things you can do with a router table
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jamwRhQTJbA}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Each bit is made for a different job. The wood shop has a wide assortment, although less common types may be unavailable. It should be noted that different bit sizes and profiles will operate better at different speeds. A good rule of thumb for setting the router bit speed is: the larger the cutter the slower the speed. Usually the router table will be set to 20000 RPM. If you plan to use a larger bit and reduce the speed of the router, ask a shop supervisor for assistance.
[[File:Router Bit Chart.jpg|500px|right]]
[[Image:RouterBits.jpg|500px|none]]

Definitions

[[Media:Portamate-PM-P254-Variable-Speed-3-1-4-HP-Router-Motor-Instructions.pdf|Router Table User Manual]]

==Training==

===Operation===
[[File:Router Feed Direction.jpg|500px|right]][[File:Router Incorrect Feed Direction.jpg|500px|right]]

====Changing a Bit====

Always unplug the router before changing a bit.

Always raise the router collet above the throat plate when changing bits. Insert the bit until the cutting edge touches the collet then pull the bit out about an eighth inch and finger tighten the collet. It’s important to allow an eighth inch of space between the bit and the collet. Router bits can heat up quickly when in use. This heat causes expansion, and the eighth inch space between the bit and the collet allows for this expansion. Router bits that are not installed properly can come loose while making your cut.

Use the two wrenches to tighten the locking nut on the collet.

====Setting the Fence====

When setting the fence, the router fence does not need to be exactly parallel to the bit for most cuts. Usually, a router bit’s performance is not affected by the angle of the fence. This differs greatly from equipment like the table saw or bandsaw which have flat blades instead of a rounded bit. The important thing is to set the fence the proper distance away from the bit, and the bit will do the rest work.

If your bit has a bearing guide, lay a straightedge against the fence and adjust it until there’s a paper-thin space between the outer edge of the bearing and the straightedge.

====Feed Direction====

When using the fence, always feed the workpiece from the right side of the router table to the left. The bit spins counterclockwise. Always push the workpiece against the cutter’s rotation. The force generated by the bit’s rotation helps push the workpiece against the fence. This is the proper way to make a controlled cut on the router table. It is dangerous to feed the workpiece from left to right because the router bit will pull the workpiece out of your hands and fling it across the room.

The feed rate is how fast the workpiece moves through the router bit. A feed rate that is too fast can cause the surface of the wood to tearout. In other words, you will get a poor cut and the surface of the wood will be rough or chipped. A feed rate that is too slow can cause the wood to burn. See the troubleshooting section for more info on burning.

====Material Removal====

Be mindful of how much material you are removing in a single pass. If you attempt to remove too much material, you could end up straining the router motor, putting too much sideways pressure on the router bit, or cause tearout/burning on your workpiece. If you need to remove a lot of material, break it up into multiple smaller passes. If you are unsure how much material is "too much," ask a shop supervisor for assistance. Unfortunately, there is no magic number that indicates you are removing too much material. It's based on several factors including: the cross-sectional area of the material you plan to remove, the shape of the router bit, the speed of the router bit, and the hardness of the wood. With some experience, you will get a feel for how much material you can remove in a single pass.

===Demonstration===

Demonstrate you can safely setup the router table with a roundover bit. Remember to always unplug the router when changing tools or making adjustments to prevent an accidental turn-on situation. Perform a roundover cut on a piece of scrap wood.

===General Procedure===

Keep in mind as you use the router table that the motor has a soft-start feature. This means that the router bit will take a couple seconds to get up to speed. Don't start feeding your workpiece until the motor reaches steady state. Also, keep in mind that the router bit will coast down after it is turned off.

Long and narrow stock is easily machined on a router table. Featherboards make it even easier; they hold the stock tight against the surface of the fence and table and let you can concentrate on a steady, even feed rate. In general, a router table will help you work with stock of dimensions that don't lend themselves to handheld router work. Long, narrow stock, such as that used to make moldings and trim are nearly impossible to work with a handheld router. Edge profiling a few hundred feet of a particular door or base molding could probably be done with handheld router and the aid of special shop-built rigging, but dong so would be an extremely inefficient choice, when a router table makes long runs of narrow stock routine. Small pieces of stock are also a challenge to work with a handheld router. Handheld work on small parts often involves a difficult balancing act. You have to keep the router perfectly upright on stock that doesn't do a good job of supporting the router base. To compound the problem, you have to have a way of holding the stock itself in place while you work. A router table leaves both of your hands free to hold on to small parts while the table surface provides a sturdy, flat support for the entire surface of the workpiece.

Trimming the edge of a piece of stock to a flat, smooth, square surface or exactly following the contour of a pattern is one of the router's specialties. Attaching a straightedge or a template to a piece of stock is one of the quickest and most effective ways to clean up an edge, or to perfectly and repeatedly form the arched top of a frame and panel door or any other curved part. Using a router table for edge trimming and pattern work speeds the process by eliminating the need to hold both the workpiece and the pattern down while you make the cut.
[[File:Wide Groove Router Table.png|500px|right]]
Cutting grooves, slots, dadoes and rabbets, sliding dovetails, mortises and tenons are all part of the router tables stock in trade. If you need to cut a wide groove, click on the image to the right. Start with the inside edge. To avoid a climb cut, consider the second cut when positioning the fence for the first. Push the fence back, then rout the rest. By routing the outer side, the bit continues to push the work against the fence.

Many woodworking operations call for stopped cuts - cuts that do not continue for the entire length of the stock. Stopped cuts can be either decorative, like a chamfer that begins and ends at a certain point on a table leg, or functional, as in the case of a mortise or a half blind dovetail pin. A router table can be set up in seconds to perform a stopped cut; the same operation with a handheld router or a table saw is often extremely cumbersome or dangerous.

==Certification==
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1212 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==

Occasionally routing can leave burn marks on the workpiece. This can happen when the workpiece is fed through the router too slowly, but it can also mean that the bit in the router has become dull. Let a shop supervisor know if a bit seems dull. Sometimes the burning is due to build up of resin and other gunk (a technical term) on the backside of the cutter which insulates the bit and allows for more heat to build up. Inspect the router bit before using, and make sure it looks clean. If the bit seems both clean and sharp, the cause of burning on your workpiece is either a feed rate that is too slow or a router bit speed that is too high.

If you are shaping end grain with a router table, use a square push block behind your workpiece to support the trailing edge and prevent tearout.

As a general rule, the miter gauge should not be used on the router table. But, if you have a special cut where you think the miter gauge would help, talk to the wood shop staff about setting it up.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

* Make sure cutter bits are clean.
* Remove and clean the collets as needed.
* Make sure any adjustment screws are tight.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Clean out router box
|As needed
|Technician
|}

Injection Molding Machine

2023-03-02T00:29:56Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=The Vault
|Is used in domain=
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Pim-shooter
|Has model=150A
|Has serial number=D00709
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File:Injection Molding Machine (1).png
|Has icondesc=
|Has image=File:Model 150a.jpg
|Has imagedesc=LNS 150A
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1280
|Has ace=Sam Manina;smanina22@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Model 150A PIM-SHOOTER™ by LNS Technologies is a bench model injection molder designed for production of thermoplastic parts in quantities required for making prototypes and low-volume production (or higher-volume production of small parts). Due to the machine’s small size it is limited to producing small parts, but it is capable of producing these parts efficiently, accurately (as accurate as the mold is), and repeatedly. The plastic shot size is 1.1 cubic inch Max.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_UnthpIA0w&feature=youtu.be}}
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LU3Dzl0iGg&feature=youtu.be}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
'''Flash -''' This is when the two halves of a molding tool are not properly sealed, causing molten plastic to leak out of the part cavity

'''Sprue -''' The main channel guiding the molten plastic from the nozzle of the injection molder into the part cavity.

'''Runners -''' Subchannels that branch off from the sprue and into the part cavities. These are used for mold tools that contain multiple part cavities.

'''Gate - '''The thin section connecting a runner or sprue to the part cavity

'''Shot -''' The volume of material needed to fill the mold cavity.
[[File:...injectionMolderTerms.png|none|thumb|469x469px]]

[[Media:Manual_InjectionMolder.pdf|Injection Molding Machine User Manual]]

==Training==
====Operation====

The injection molder works by melting plastic pellets within a heated barrel to a specific temperature, and using a ram plunger to force the molten plastic through a nozzle, into a mold cavity.

====Demonstration====

For the injection molder demonstration, a pre-existing mold will be provided and the person must successfully injection mold the part. They should demonstrate proper adjustment of height to fit the mold, setting up for injection (filling the hopper, setting the temperature, and aligning the mold under the nozzle), injecting, and removal of the mold and part from the mold.

====General Procedure====
# Setup
## You will need to setup the molding machine using the following steps and charts. Temperatures for different plastics can be found in the table below. Make sure to wear gloves and safety glasses while using this machine.[[File:...injectionTemperatureChart.png|none|thumb|373x373px]] [[File:Temp_Controller.JPG|600px|thumb|none]]
## First we need to adjust the height for the mold being used by following these steps.
### Set the mold clamps to measure the gap.
### Loosen the height adjustment bolts on the top holder using a 6mm Allen Wrench.
### Loosen both tension nuts, and turn the lower tension nut to move the top holder up and down the main post. This will determine the height of the machine.
### Raise or lower the top holder so that there is a gap between the nozzle and the mold sprue (this allows adding and removing the mold), but of no more than ½”.
### Tighten height adjustment bolts, and verify that the nozzle aligns well with the mold sprue.
### Tighten the upper and lower tension nuts.
# Molding
## Turn on the power switch.
## Make sure the SV value is correct on the temp controller for the type of material you are using. Adjust the temp controller using the setting buttons if the SV value needs adjusting.
## Wait for the PV value to reach the SV value.
## Now add pellets to the feeder.
## Wait several minutes for the pellets to melt. If you want to preheat the mold now is the time.
## You should see a small amount of plastic ooze from the nozzle
## Make sure the mold is clamped tight and the nozzle nipple is aligned with the mold sprue.
## Scrape away any oozing plastic from the nozzle using a screwdriver or similar tool. This helps keep plastic chunks out of the mold.
## With a smooth linear motion push down on the handle and fill the mold.
## Hold pressure on the handle for an extra few seconds. This will help reduce shrinking of the plastic in the mold.
## Retract the handle all of the way to remove the plunger and give access to load more pellets.
## You can now remove the mold and separate the halves.

==Safety==
*Parts of the injection molding machine get very hot and could burn you. You need to wear gloves while working with the machine and molds.
*Never attempt to use PVC or other materials not approved for use with this machine. PVC will produce toxic fumes when heated.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1280 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
It may take some time to learn how much pressure to apply to the handle when filling a mold. If you press too hard you will end up with lots of plastic flash on your finished piece as material will ooze out between the mold halves. If you don't press hard enough you could end up with an air pocket left in the mold.

If you run into an issue with the material not flowing properly make sure that you are heating the material to the correct temperature and allowing enough time for the plastic to melt.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The machine should to be cleaned on a regular basis and mechanical parts should be checked for wear as well as loosening of any parts.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Clean up plastic overflow
|When used
|Student
|}

Sheet Metal Shear

2023-02-08T22:43:02Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is sheet metal equipment=True
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Peck, Stow & Wilcox Co.
|Has model=G-52
|Has serial number=H-209
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Is located in facility= Machine Shop
|Is used in domain=Metal
|Has function=Sheet Metal Shear
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1307
|Has icon=File: Sheet_metal_shearIcon.png
|Has icondesc=Sheet Metal Shear icon
|Has image=File:Pexto_G-52.JPG
|Has imagedesc=Sheet Metal Shear
|Has description=Sheet Metal Shear
|Has ace=Brady Pfeiffer;bpfeiffer21@georgefox.edu
}}

[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

The shear is used for making straight cuts in sheet metal as well as other materials. The shearing blade is powered by applying force to the foot pedal located on the lower front of the machine. To prevent damage to yourself and or the machine make sure you obey the following rules:
* Maximum aluminum material thickness you can cut with this machine is .07" x full width.
* Maximum mild steel thickness you can cut with this machine is .06" x 12" wide
* Maximum stainless steel thickness you can cut with this machine is .04" x 12" (ask before cutting stainless steel)
* NEVER attempt to cut round stock or wire on the shear.
* Plastics can be cut up to 1/8" thick x the blade width.
* Ask Justin or Nick G. prior to cutting any other materials.
* Always use the cam lock bar to hold material prior to cutting.
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KFaqs6GGc0I}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

*Foot Pedal: The bar located across the front of the machine used to activate the blade.
*Hold Down: A cam operated bar in front of the blade used to keep the material from moving during a cut.
*Hold Down Handles: The handles used to actuate hold down clamp.

[[Media:NO.G52.pdf|Sheet Metal Shear User Manual]]

==Training==
====Operation====

The sheet metal shear is human powered. You will be pressing down on the foot pedal to move the blade that shears the material. The upper rail has two handles for clamping down your work prior to shearing.The manufacturer rates this shear for 16 gauge mild steel. It would be very difficult to cut a full width of material with this machine so we are limiting the width to 12 inches. It is recommended that you stick to thinner and smaller pieces of material when using the machine. This machine is not designed to cut round stock and it will ruin the blade. Keep body parts away from the blade at all times. Don't stick anything you wouldn't want cut off under the blade. This machine is not designed to cut round stock or hard materials and both of these will ruin the blade. Only place sheet metal on the shear to prevent other object getting under the blade. After making your cut the edge of the material will most likely be very sharp and need to be deburred.

====Demonstration====

For the demonstration you will need to show understanding of the machine use and setup. You will need to select an appropriate piece of material for the demonstration and make a safe cut. By placing a mark on the material you can demonstrate your ability to align the blade with the cut line.

====General Procedure====

#Find a piece of scrap material that is within the capacity of the machine. Don't waste large pieces of material. Choose a smaller piece preferably an inch or two wide.
#Draw a cut line on the material using a straight edge and a marker.
#Make sure the material hold down is up enough to slide your material under.
#Make sure the cutting side of the blade aligns with the mark on your material.
#Pull down on both hold down levers and lock the material in place.
#Depending on the width of cut and how much you weigh, you may need to place one or two feet on the foot pedal.
#Keep your hands away from the blade. You can hold onto the top hold down rail to steady yourself if needed.
#You may need to jump or press down on the foot pedal to get the material to shear.
#After the material is cut you will need to remove yourself from the foot pedal.
#Release the hold down levers and remove the material.
#Reset the space.

==Safety==
*Fingers must be kept away from the blade at all times. Never place your hand or fingers near the blade.
*Sheet metal can be razor sharp. Always be aware of sharp edges and corners. It is recommended to use gloves when handling sheet metal.
*Make sure others keep away from the foot pedal. Keep toes/feet out from under the pedal when it comes down.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1307 Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
If you weigh less than 150 pounds you may have problems getting the material to cut. Ask a supervisor for help if you have any issues.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The machine should be oiled periodically by the tech.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Oil Blade
|As needed
|Technician
|}

Sheet Metal Shear

2023-02-08T22:42:11Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is sheet metal equipment=True
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Peck, Stow & Wilcox Co.
|Has model=G-52
|Has serial number=H-209
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Is located in facility= Machine Shop
|Is used in domain=Metal
|Has function=Sheet Metal Shear
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1307
|Has icon=File: Sheet_metal_shearIcon.png
|Has icondesc=Sheet Metal Shear icon
|Has image=File:Pexto_G-52.JPG
|Has imagedesc=Sheet Metal Shear
|Has description=Sheet Metal Shear
|Has ace=Brady Pfeiffer; bpfeiffer21@georgefox.edu@georgefox.edu
}}

[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

The shear is used for making straight cuts in sheet metal as well as other materials. The shearing blade is powered by applying force to the foot pedal located on the lower front of the machine. To prevent damage to yourself and or the machine make sure you obey the following rules:
* Maximum aluminum material thickness you can cut with this machine is .07" x full width.
* Maximum mild steel thickness you can cut with this machine is .06" x 12" wide
* Maximum stainless steel thickness you can cut with this machine is .04" x 12" (ask before cutting stainless steel)
* NEVER attempt to cut round stock or wire on the shear.
* Plastics can be cut up to 1/8" thick x the blade width.
* Ask Justin or Nick G. prior to cutting any other materials.
* Always use the cam lock bar to hold material prior to cutting.
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KFaqs6GGc0I}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

*Foot Pedal: The bar located across the front of the machine used to activate the blade.
*Hold Down: A cam operated bar in front of the blade used to keep the material from moving during a cut.
*Hold Down Handles: The handles used to actuate hold down clamp.

[[Media:NO.G52.pdf|Sheet Metal Shear User Manual]]

==Training==
====Operation====

The sheet metal shear is human powered. You will be pressing down on the foot pedal to move the blade that shears the material. The upper rail has two handles for clamping down your work prior to shearing.The manufacturer rates this shear for 16 gauge mild steel. It would be very difficult to cut a full width of material with this machine so we are limiting the width to 12 inches. It is recommended that you stick to thinner and smaller pieces of material when using the machine. This machine is not designed to cut round stock and it will ruin the blade. Keep body parts away from the blade at all times. Don't stick anything you wouldn't want cut off under the blade. This machine is not designed to cut round stock or hard materials and both of these will ruin the blade. Only place sheet metal on the shear to prevent other object getting under the blade. After making your cut the edge of the material will most likely be very sharp and need to be deburred.

====Demonstration====

For the demonstration you will need to show understanding of the machine use and setup. You will need to select an appropriate piece of material for the demonstration and make a safe cut. By placing a mark on the material you can demonstrate your ability to align the blade with the cut line.

====General Procedure====

#Find a piece of scrap material that is within the capacity of the machine. Don't waste large pieces of material. Choose a smaller piece preferably an inch or two wide.
#Draw a cut line on the material using a straight edge and a marker.
#Make sure the material hold down is up enough to slide your material under.
#Make sure the cutting side of the blade aligns with the mark on your material.
#Pull down on both hold down levers and lock the material in place.
#Depending on the width of cut and how much you weigh, you may need to place one or two feet on the foot pedal.
#Keep your hands away from the blade. You can hold onto the top hold down rail to steady yourself if needed.
#You may need to jump or press down on the foot pedal to get the material to shear.
#After the material is cut you will need to remove yourself from the foot pedal.
#Release the hold down levers and remove the material.
#Reset the space.

==Safety==
*Fingers must be kept away from the blade at all times. Never place your hand or fingers near the blade.
*Sheet metal can be razor sharp. Always be aware of sharp edges and corners. It is recommended to use gloves when handling sheet metal.
*Make sure others keep away from the foot pedal. Keep toes/feet out from under the pedal when it comes down.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1307 Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
If you weigh less than 150 pounds you may have problems getting the material to cut. Ask a supervisor for help if you have any issues.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The machine should be oiled periodically by the tech.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Oil Blade
|As needed
|Technician
|}

Sheet Metal Shear

2023-02-08T22:41:35Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is sheet metal equipment=True
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Peck, Stow & Wilcox Co.
|Has model=G-52
|Has serial number=H-209
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Is located in facility= Machine Shop
|Is used in domain=Metal
|Has function=Sheet Metal Shear
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1307
|Has icon=File: Sheet_metal_shearIcon.png
|Has icondesc=Sheet Metal Shear icon
|Has image=File:Pexto_G-52.JPG
|Has imagedesc=Sheet Metal Shear
|Has description=Sheet Metal Shear
|Has ace=Brady Pfeiffer;bpfeiffer21@georgefox.edu@georgefox.edu
}}

[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

The shear is used for making straight cuts in sheet metal as well as other materials. The shearing blade is powered by applying force to the foot pedal located on the lower front of the machine. To prevent damage to yourself and or the machine make sure you obey the following rules:
* Maximum aluminum material thickness you can cut with this machine is .07" x full width.
* Maximum mild steel thickness you can cut with this machine is .06" x 12" wide
* Maximum stainless steel thickness you can cut with this machine is .04" x 12" (ask before cutting stainless steel)
* NEVER attempt to cut round stock or wire on the shear.
* Plastics can be cut up to 1/8" thick x the blade width.
* Ask Justin or Nick G. prior to cutting any other materials.
* Always use the cam lock bar to hold material prior to cutting.
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KFaqs6GGc0I}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

*Foot Pedal: The bar located across the front of the machine used to activate the blade.
*Hold Down: A cam operated bar in front of the blade used to keep the material from moving during a cut.
*Hold Down Handles: The handles used to actuate hold down clamp.

[[Media:NO.G52.pdf|Sheet Metal Shear User Manual]]

==Training==
====Operation====

The sheet metal shear is human powered. You will be pressing down on the foot pedal to move the blade that shears the material. The upper rail has two handles for clamping down your work prior to shearing.The manufacturer rates this shear for 16 gauge mild steel. It would be very difficult to cut a full width of material with this machine so we are limiting the width to 12 inches. It is recommended that you stick to thinner and smaller pieces of material when using the machine. This machine is not designed to cut round stock and it will ruin the blade. Keep body parts away from the blade at all times. Don't stick anything you wouldn't want cut off under the blade. This machine is not designed to cut round stock or hard materials and both of these will ruin the blade. Only place sheet metal on the shear to prevent other object getting under the blade. After making your cut the edge of the material will most likely be very sharp and need to be deburred.

====Demonstration====

For the demonstration you will need to show understanding of the machine use and setup. You will need to select an appropriate piece of material for the demonstration and make a safe cut. By placing a mark on the material you can demonstrate your ability to align the blade with the cut line.

====General Procedure====

#Find a piece of scrap material that is within the capacity of the machine. Don't waste large pieces of material. Choose a smaller piece preferably an inch or two wide.
#Draw a cut line on the material using a straight edge and a marker.
#Make sure the material hold down is up enough to slide your material under.
#Make sure the cutting side of the blade aligns with the mark on your material.
#Pull down on both hold down levers and lock the material in place.
#Depending on the width of cut and how much you weigh, you may need to place one or two feet on the foot pedal.
#Keep your hands away from the blade. You can hold onto the top hold down rail to steady yourself if needed.
#You may need to jump or press down on the foot pedal to get the material to shear.
#After the material is cut you will need to remove yourself from the foot pedal.
#Release the hold down levers and remove the material.
#Reset the space.

==Safety==
*Fingers must be kept away from the blade at all times. Never place your hand or fingers near the blade.
*Sheet metal can be razor sharp. Always be aware of sharp edges and corners. It is recommended to use gloves when handling sheet metal.
*Make sure others keep away from the foot pedal. Keep toes/feet out from under the pedal when it comes down.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1307 Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
If you weigh less than 150 pounds you may have problems getting the material to cut. Ask a supervisor for help if you have any issues.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The machine should be oiled periodically by the tech.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Oil Blade
|As needed
|Technician
|}

Vinyl Printer+Cutter

2023-01-26T17:44:38Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=The Hub
|Is used in domain=Vinyl
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Roland
|Has model=BN-20
|Has serial number=ADP2248
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File: Vinyl_cutter_printerIcon.png
|Has icondesc=Vinyl Printer
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:roland-bn-20.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The Roland BN-20 Vinyl Printer
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1258
|Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Safety First==
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]
Here are some safety instructions for the {{PAGENAME}}. Remember... SAFETY FIRST!!!
* Never turn off the main power supply. The printer must routinely empty the print head to prevent it from clogging and it cannot do so without power.
* The printer will automatically pause if the front door is opened and the back is open. Keep hands and clothing away from the back of the printer to prevent pinching and tangling.
* Sometimes vinyl scraps can be oddly shaped and can get wrinkled up when traveling through the media guides. Make sure the piece slides through easily before printing so this does not cause issues.
* It is recommended that the machine get used about once a week to prevent issues such as nozzle clogging.

==Description==

Vinyl Printing is the process of applying ink to vinyl sheets to produce graphics using a conventional inkjet printing method with solvent based inks. This is useful for making images into stickers, creating t-shirt graphics, and any task where the appearance of vinyl needs to be changed. Printers similar to this are standard in small scale custom clothing companies due to how easy it is to take a graphic from Adobe Illustrator to a piece of vinyl. The BN-20 packs everything into one, powerful, profit-producing package. With award-winning eco-solvent inks including metallic and white options, a range of material compatibility and integrated contour cutting, it is easily the most versatile print device in its class. The BN-20 is perfect for creating t-shirt graphics, poster prints, stickers and decals – all from the comfort of your desktop.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6J1yLQyGNE}}
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1jgmG87EJc8}}
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZ75bp0_fP8}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* Graphic - The image, logo, lettering or similar design that is being printed.
* Adobe Illustrator - The software used to set up graphics to be printed.
* Weeding - Removing the excess vinyl material with the tools found in the drawer below the computer.
* Versawoks - The software that interacts with the printer to perform a print.
* Vector images - An image constructed with mathematical formulas which makes it easy to resize and perform other edits.
* Raster images - An image constructed with pixels which means they cannot be resized without a change in resolution.
* See below for specific machine terminology.
* [[File:Vinyl Printer Terms.png|none|thumb|866x866px]]
 
[[Media:BN-20 USE EN R2.pdf|Vinyl Printer+Cutter User Manual]] 
This user manual does a good job of visually showing the details of operating the printer.

==Training==
====Operation====

Almost any file type can be used as a graphic when using the vinyl printer but they all must be brought into Illustrator or Inkscape to add a cut line. Note that a vector file such as a .pdf will work the best. The cut line tells the printer to cut out the image that is being printed so it can be weeded properly before it is applied. There are many ways to create a cut line and it is up to the user to determine which process will be the easiest for their graphic. Once a cut line has been created, the file is saved as an .eps and then opened in Versaworks to finalize any print settings before performing the print. After the print is completed it should be left to dry for 20 minutes before being applied to another object.

====Demonstration====
Print out and weed a graphic of your choice. If you are indecisive use a George Fox logo from the [https://www.georgefox.edu/offices/communications/creative_srv/logos/index.html website].

====General Procedure====

Loading Material:
# The vinyl printer is capable of printing on any type or size of vinyl but matte vinyls will provide the best results. Sticker vinyls can be found on the vinyl cutter or in the cabinet under the computer while heat transfer vinyls can be found in the vinyl printer or in the cabinet to the right of the printer. Scrap pieces can be found in the bin next to the computer and are loaded into the printer just like a roll is.
# Press the secondary power button to turn on the printer.
# The loading process always begins by pushing the loading lever backwards. This opens the media clamps so the vinyl can be slid through the printer.
# The media guides are critical to keeping the vinyl in place while printing and must be adjusted to fit the width of the vinyl. Do so by sliding the left media guide to the edge of the vinyl piece. When doing this make sure the pinch roller is above a grit roller or the printer will NOT work. You may have to play with the piece orientation or width to make this possible.
# Feed the vinyl through the printer from the back of machine so that it passes under the media clamps. The purpose of the media clamps is to keep the edges of the vinyl from interfering with the print head so this is an important piece to remember. Feel free to reference the image below. [[File:Vinyl Clamps.png|none|thumb|463x463px]]
# Finish the loading process by pulling the loading lever forward and making sure the door is closed. If everything is done correctly the printer will move around the material a bit and then sit quietly. If there is beeping then something is not set up correctly.

Preparing Graphics:

First, it is important to understand the differences between a vector and a raster when setting up graphics to be printed. Raster images use many colored pixels or individual building blocks to form a complete image. JPEGs, GIFs and PNGs are common raster image types. Almost all of the photos found on the web and in print catalogs are raster images. Because raster images are constructed using a fixed number of colored pixels, they can’t be dramatically resized without compromising their resolution. When stretched to fit a space they weren’t designed to fill, their pixels become visibly grainy and the image distorts. This is why altered photos may appear pixilated or low resolution. Further, because a raster image is composed of many tiny pieces it is difficult to distinguish one object from another within the image. Vector images, alternatively, allow for more flexibility. Constructed using mathematical formulas rather than individual colored blocks, vector file types such as SVG, EPS, AI and PDF* ['''why the "*" on PDF.?'''] are excellent for creating graphics that frequently require resizing. Also, each object within a vector file is assigned to a distinct layer within Adobe Illustrator or Inkscape which means an object can be moved, resized, and recolored without affecting the rest of the image. Having a graphic in vector format can be helpful because it is easy to remove the vinyl background from the graphic by adding a cut line around the object.

For Adobe Illustrator:
# Open the graphic in Illustrator 2017 and perform any desired editing. Most of the time nothing will need to be changed with the exception of converting a raster to a vector in order to add a cut line around a specific part of the graphic. To do this:
#*To import a normal picture into Adobe Illustrator, do [File] > [Place] and then click and drag to the desired size.The graphic can then be converted to vectors by clicking [Object] >[Flatten Transparency].
#*Next, click on the image to bring up several options at the top of the screen and select the [Trace] function. When doing this make sure to select the [Expand] option. This will break the image up into components which can be edited individually.
#*If you want to remove a part of a graphic, you would select the section you want to remove in the layers tab and then hit the trash can icon.
#*Note that this process works well for simple images with few colors. If the image is super complicated it will lose a lot of detail and still be difficult to work with because of the many layers that are created.
# In essence, a cut line is a 0.25 pt line (called a stroke in Illustrator) that is correctly colored and labeled so Versaworks can read it properly. The stroke can be added around specific layers (great for logos), or around the entire graphic (better for images). The advantage of adding a stroke around each layer is that it is possible to completely weed out vinyl between two parts of an image instead of leaving a piece of uncolored vinyl. For details on adding the cut line follow the steps below.
#* Select the entire graphic and add a 0.25 stroke to the graphic. The [Stroke] option can be found in the toolbar at the top of the screen.
#* Click on the color options to the left of the [Stroke] option and then click on [New Swatch] on the bottom edge of the box. A window will open up.
#* Name the new swatch [CutContour]. Make sure to use the exact capitalization or it will not work properly.
#* Change the color type from [Process Color] to [Spot Color]
#* Make sure that the color system is set to CMYK
#* Drag the magenta bar (M) all the way up to 100 and make sure the other sliders are at 0.
#* Hit okay. At this point there should be a bright pink line surrounding the graphic and it is ready to be printed.
#Now that the graphic is ready, save it as an Adobe EPS file (.EPS) so it will be able to be printed in Versaworks.
For Inkscape:
# Open or import your graphic and perform any desired edits. To create the cut line you will need to have a vector object so that a stroke can be added. If your graphic is already a vector format great, but if it is not there are two options.
#* First you can draw a shape around the graphic and use that as the cut line. This option works well for high quality images because there is no compromise in image detail. The downside is that it is difficult to cut out precise shapes from the graphic because it is difficult to get shapes to match up correctly.
#* The second option is to convert the graphic to a vector format using a bitmap. Do this by clicking [Path] > [Trace Bitmap] and then pressing [Okay]. There are several different options in the bitmap menu that you can experiment with to find the best results. Generally, the color option works the best. Finish the process by right clicking and selecting the [ungroup] option so that each piece of the graphic can be edited.
# Create the cut line. Do this by selecting the shape that you would like to cut out, right clicking, and then selecting [Fill and Stroke]. Then add a stroke of any width (0.25 pt works well) and any color. Ideally this would be a spot color and named CutContour just like Illustrator but Inkscape does not have the same options. The downside of using a normal stroke is that the cut settings in Versaworks must be adjusted to treat the stroke as a cut line. This can be an issue if you have several adjacent shapes creating a graphic but you only want to cut around the outside of the objects. To prevent this, select the group of objects you want to cut around, make sure there are no strokes around them, and copy/paste a new copy of them next to the old ones. Select the copy and then go to [Path] > [Union]. This will combine the group of objects into one shape with a continuous outline that will be cut out, but notice that the new singular object will be one color. Add a stroke to the new object and make sure to turn off the fill, then use the page coordinates to place the new object in the same place as the original group. You should be able to see the stroke surrounding your original object; this will be your cut line.
# Save the file as a .EPS to be imported into Versaworks
# In Versaworks, click on the setting symbol next to job queue A or B.
# Click the scissor icon on the left side of the settings window and check the [Cut all paths] option. This will treat the stroke as a cut line as it is qualified as a path.
Printing and Cutting:
# Make sure the material is loaded properly.
# Open up Roland Versaworks. This can be found on the desktop and is where the printing is done from.
# Open the .eps file of the desired graphic. There are two different job queues that it can be put into but it doesn't matter which one is used if you are only printing one job. Note: The graphic will appear to be a low quality image in the preview window but this is just how the software operates.
# Double click on the graphic to open a high definition preview of the image to check that everything is working properly. Sometimes the colors may not carry over properly so make sure they look good. If something looks off then there are some color settings that can be changed when saving the EPS file. Mainly, make sure that the cut line is indicated by a moving, dashed, red line surrounding image.
# You might want to change the orientation or other parameters before starting the print; to do this go to [Job] > [Job Settings].
# Finally, right click on the desired file name in the job queue and hit print.
# After the cut is finished turn off the machine with the secondary power button but make sure to leave the main power switch on to prevent damage and wait 20 minutes before interacting with the graphic.

Preparing for Transfers:

Depending on the type of vinyl and the application it is being used for you will have different procedures for transferring the vinyl. When working with the heat transfer vinyl, used for making shirts and such, there are two main ways to do this. First, you can print the mirror of the graphic so that no transfer paper is needed. Second, you can print it normally and then use clear transfer paper to hold everything in place during application. This second option is also used for the standard sticker vinyl and can be done by performing the following steps:
# Use the weeding kit to remove all unwanted sections of the graphic.
#* Tweezers are used to pinch and pull up unwanted sections.
#* The rounded dental tools are used to hold down wanted sections to prevent them being peeled off with unwanted sections.
# If necessary, cut the graphic off from any excess material.
# Use scissors to cut out a piece of clear transfer paper slightly larger than your cut-out graphic.
# Position it sticky side down over your graphic and use a squeegee to apply it the the graphic.
#* This is done starting in the center of the graphic, and smoothed with the squeegee from the center out.
# Once it is applied, flip the layers over and peel the backing of the vinyl material from the transfer paper.
#* Peel at the greatest angle possible, aim for parallel to the transfer paper so that none of the vinyl is pulled off.
# The graphic is then ready to be transferred onto the desired material.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1258 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
* The most common issue is the printer beeping when trying to load a piece of material. To fix this, make sure the pinch roller is positioned above a grit roller by finding a new piece of vinyl or rotating/cutting down the current piece.
* If there are globs, spots, or streaks of ink occurring during the printing process then it is time to manually clean the print head (see maintenance).
* There may be issues with the vinyl being difficult to weed due to pieces sticking together. The heat transfer vinyl is more difficult to weed in general so some of this may be expected but one thing that will help is to increase the cutting force before printing. By default it is set to 50 gf but feel free to increase it if weeding is excessively difficult.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Like any printer, this machine will periodically need to have its ink replaced. Additionally there are other tasks that should be completed to keep the printer fully functional.These include; keeping equipment free of dirt and grime, both manually and automatically maintaining the print head, and replacing cutting blades and print head wipers.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fO44grz5KnI}}

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Done
|-
|1
|Clean Print Area
|As needed
|Student
|N/A
|-
|2
|Change Ink
|When the low ink warning appears on the computer
|Ace
|
|-
|3
|Replace the Waste Cartridge
|Once the full cartridge warning appears on the computer
|Ace
|
|-
|4
|Medium Print Head Cleaning
|Once there is nozzle clogging, ink spots, or dragged dirt
|Ace
|
|-
|5
|Manual Print Head Cleaning
|If the medium cleaning does not solve the issues
|Ace
|
|-
|6
|Replace Felt Wiper
|When the replace wiper warning appears
|Ace
|
|-
|7
|Replace Blade
|When cut quality has decreased
|Ace
|
|}
# Wipe any dust off the machine with a paper towel and the areas shown below. [[File:Printer cleaning.png|none|thumb|594x594px]]
# See user manual for procedure specifics.
# See user manual for procedure specifics.
# Should be completed if prints show signs similar to the image below; see user manual for procedure specifics.[[File:Vinyl printer errors.png|none|thumb|657x657px]]
# See user manual for procedure specifics.
# See user manual for procedure specifics.
# See user manual for procedure specifics.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omcP7oPbHLE}}

Vacuum Former

2022-10-26T00:17:05Z

Justinj: /* Specific Maintenance Tasks */

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=The Vault
|Is used in domain=
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Vacuum Former.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Formech.jpg
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1305
|Has make=Formech
|Has model=508DT
|Has serial number=2728
|Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Formech 508DT Vacuum Former is a plastic molding machine that utilizes heat and a vacuum to stretch heated plastic over a mold. The vacuum former is great for thin plastic molds, although there are some limitations on the shape and size. The max dimensions for the mold are 17”x19” with a depth of 7.3". The max thickness for the plastic sheet is 0.25" Molds can be made from many types of materials. It's fairly common to see molds made from wood. Molds need to have some draft so they can be removed from the plastic.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PL9xER4K4UWLuBZ1cCeyQFBH4FluaSZDel&v=J0YR0MpKcPI}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

* '''Table-''' The bed that the mold rests on.
* '''Clamp Frame-''' The metal bars that captivate the plastic sheet as its heated and stretched over the mold.
* '''Toggle Clamp Screws-'''
*'''Draft Angle-''' The wall angle of a mold. This helps in removing the plastic off the mold.
Knowing what the different buttons in the touchscreen operation mean is important in operating the vacuum former. The three primary ones are heat , vacuum , and release . For a full list, refer to the manual.

[[Media:Manual-508DT.pdf|Vacuum Former User Manual]]

==Training==
====Operation====

The vacuum former can mold up to a 19"x17" square and to a depth of 7.3".

Molds must slant outwardly slightly to ensure that they can be popped out of the plastic after molding is finished.

====Demonstration====

Text here

====Operation====

[[File:Formech_Controls.JPG|none|thumb|600x600px]]

== Operation ==
* Place a mold into the tray and lower it.
* Mold cannot be concave and must slant outwards slightly or it will not be removable from the plastic.
* Place plastic into the clamps ensuring it completely covers the white seals.
* Turn on the heaters. They should take about 15 minutes to warm up.
* Lift the table.
* Turn on the vacuum.
* Let the plastic cool, then hit the release button.
* Lower the table to remove the plastic.
* Reset the table.

==Safety==
* Parts of the machine can reach over 300 degrees C. Don't touch the heater or heat shield surrounding the heater.
* Never put your hand in a position it could be pinched by the molding frame.
* The formed plastic is very hot and sticky. It could stick to you and continue to burn if you touch it.
* Some types of plastics could give off toxic fumes when heated. Check the SDS before working with materials you are unfamiliar with.

==Certification==
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1305 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
Make sure to put draft on your form to prevent sticking.
If the plastic is not hot enough it won't pull down over the form.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Inspect
|As Needed
|Ace/Tech
|}

Waterjet Cutter

2022-10-22T01:11:22Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Has make=OMAX
|Has model=ProtoMAX
|Has serial number=8100202
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Is located in facility= Machine Shop
|Is used in domain=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1303
|Has function=
|Has icon=File:waterjet_cutter_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Waterjet Cutter Icon
|Has iconwname=File:waterjet_cutter_icon.png
|Has image=File:waterjet_cutter_image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The ProtoMax Waterjet Cutter
|Has description=Used for precision cutting of tough materials.
|Has QR code=
|Has ace=Mikayla Stephenson;mstephenson22@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__
==Safety First==
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]
The waterjet can be a very dangerous machine if not used properly so here are some important safety items to keep in mind. First, Jesus forgives, but 30,000 psi doesn't. So pay attention to these precautions and be safe while operating this machine.
* NEVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER turn on the machine without first turning on the water! You could destroy the machine...and your reputation.
* If you see water squirting out the side of the machine while running a cut, don't touch it! It is the fountain of "Bye Bye Fingers."
* Wear rubber gloves while dealing with the water in the tank. The water in there is a nasty pool of bacteria and chemicals just waiting to crawl into your open wounds.
* If you have true "talent" and manage to run the water jet while your hand is underneath it, you have the opportunity of going to the ER and taking with you a medical card that tells the doctors how to treat you so you don't die.

==Description==

The waterjet Cutter is a machine that uses highly pressurized water with a flow of an abrasive material to perform computer controlled cuts on a wide variety of materials, including 1" steel. This is helpful for creating parts with intricate designs for car engines, mounting brackets, and decorative plates. Another benefit of the waterjet is that there is minimal temperature change during the process which makes it perfect for cutting temperature sensitive materials. Check out the video below to see the waterjet in action.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UE4Fz8v0Lms&feature=youtu.be}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* Tool path - The path that the waterjet will follow when cutting out a part. This includes more than just the outline of the part because the waterjet must pierce through the material before performing a cut.
* ProtoMAX LAYOUT- This is the software used to set up a tool path for the water jet and can be found on the laptop that is used with the waterjet.
* MAKE - This is the software that directly communicates with the waterjet to perform a cut from a tool path. It can also be found on the waterjet's laptop.
* Holding posts - The adjustable aluminum rods that are used as mounts for the holding arms.
* Holding arms - These come in several sizes and are used to clamp the material in place while performing a cut.
* Abrasive - This is a sand like substance, in this case garnet, which is mixed with the water to improve cutting.
* Mixing tube - The tip of the nozzle assemble which mixes the water and abrasive together.

==== User Manuals ====

[[Media:Waterjet Cutter ProtoMAX Manual.pdf|Waterjet Cutter User Manual]]

==Training==
====Operation====

The waterjet cutter is an amazing tool that can be used on a wide variety of materials including 1" steel! However, it is limited to a 12" by 12" cut area with a 1" thickness being its maximum. Make sure the waterjet cutter is capable of handling your part and your material before going through all of the setup procedures. Like cutting many other two dimensional cutting tools, the cutting process should begin with a DXF file created from Solidworks or a similar software. Once a DXF fie has been created it can then be used to create a tool path using ProtoMAX LAYOUT. The detailed steps to do do this can be found in the general procedure but the most important step is to ensure that the waterjet pierces the material outside of the part outline. After the tool path is created and the machine has been properly set up, the job can be posted to the MAKE software, which is installed on the waterjet's laptop computer, to perform the cut.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the waterjet, the student will design a part in ProtoMAX LAYOUT, create a tool path for the part, and then cut it out. As part of the process the student will also perform the correct set up and shut down procedures. The part for this demonstration can be found in the procedure.

====General Procedure====
'''Part Design in ProtoMAX LAYOUT:'''
# Open ProtoMAX LAYOUT. Your screen should look something like this. [[File:ProtoMAX_LAYOUT.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Select the "Line" tool from the "Draw" menu on the left of the screen and create a 2" square with a 1" square notch in the top right corner. To do this, click anywhere on the screen to start the first line. This will bring a popup "Specify Dimensions" box where you will enter 2 into the "Rise (dy)" box. This will create a 2" vertical line. Select the "Line" tool again at the top of the first line and enter 1 into the "Run (dx)" box. This will create a 1" horizontal line to the right. Repeat this process until the box looks like this. The last line at the bottom can by created by selecting both open edges with the "Line" tool. [[File:Basic_shape_of_box.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Select the "Circle" tool and choose the intersect option from the bottom of the screen. Click the top, left corner of the square and enter 0.5 for the diameter of the circle.
# Select the circle using the "Select" tool from the "Edit" menu on the left of the screen (make sure to select the top and bottom of the circle). Next, select the "Move" tool from the left side of the screen and choose the "Intersect" option from the bottom of the screen.
# Click on the center of the circle where the corner of the square is and enter 0.5 and -0.5 for the "Run" and "Rise" of the movement. Your screen should look something like this. [[File:Box_with_circle.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
'''Tool Paths''':

Most of the time, you will not be using ProtoMAX LAYOUT to design a part. Thankfully, this program can accept ".dxf" files, but you still have to create the tool paths. If using a ".dxf" file, import the file to skip the last section and start here to give it a tool path.

Before showing you how to create a tool path, there are a couple of things that you must keep in mind. When the waterjet cuts it has a kerf which means it will take away some of the material it is cutting and you do not want it to be taking material away from your part. Instead, you want to remove material from the scrap that is not critical to the part's function and as a result the tool path must be created with this in mind. To do this, you must first keep in mind that the waterjet will always cut on the left side of the tool path lines. This changes based on the direction the nozzle is traveling; for example if the nozzle travels clockwise around a circle it will remove excess material outside of the circle and if it travels counterclockwise it will remove excess material from the inside of the circle. Because of this, you must control the direction that the nozzle will travel. For an outside cut, you want it to cut on the outside of the line to preserve the proper dimensions of the part. For and inside cut, you want the opposite of that. For a ring, you would want the nozzle to travel clockwise for the outside cut and counter-clockwise for the inside cut. To control the direction of the nozzle, place lead-in and lead-out lines to specify the start or end of a cut and the cut direction. It is better to cut the inner bits first and then the outer bits last; and don't let the nozzle travel over any holes that are already cut.

# Zoom in closer to the circle. Select the "Lead i/o" tool from the "Draw" menu on the left of the screen. Select the bottom edge of the circle and move the cursor upwards and click to create a lead in and out from the center of the circle. This will tell the waterjet to cut on the inside of the circle. Looking at this picture, you can see that one line is longer than the other. This longer line is the lead-in line. The nozzle will penetrate the material from the beginning of the long line and work its way down to the bottom of the circle. Once the nozzle hits the bottom, it will start counter-clockwise because the lead-in line is positioned at a slight angle to make counter-clockwise and easier direction than clockwise. This is how you tell the nozzle which direction to cut.[[File:Lead_i-o.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Next, place a "Lead i/o" near the bottom of the left wall on the square moving your cursor to the left and clicking to tell the machine to cut on the outside of the box.[[File:Lead_io2.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Select the "Line" tool and connect the long, lead-in line of the box to the short, lead-out line of the circle. This is a traverse line telling the machine to move from the circle to the box after it has finished cutting the circle.
# Use the line tool and click on the long, lead-in line for the circle. Place the other end of the line so that it is at least 1/8" past both the left and bottom edge of the part. This will be the origin for the part and the cut. It should look something like this:[[File:Design_with_traverse_lines.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Now you get to decide the quality of each cut. Select the button at the bottom of your screen labeled "Quality". You should see a range from 1 to 5, a Traverse, and Lead i/o. The range of 1 to 5 will change the machines cutting speed. The higher quality is 5 (slower) and the lowest quality is 1 (faster). Choose a quality of 5 for the circle by clicking "5" and then selecting every part of the circle. Do the same for the outer edge but with a quality of 1. Your part should look like this. Leave the traverse lines as green. This indicates where you don't want the machine to cut. [[File:Quality_lines.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Sometimes there are extra points or lines that are unnecessary. To remove these points, click "Clean", click "start" on the popup window, and "okay" on the second popup window. Doing this will insure a tidier cut.
# The last step is saving the file to be cut. Click "Post" on the right of your screen. If you have not saved yet, this will ask you to save your drawing; do so. It will then bring you to a window asking you to "Pick Start". Select end of the traverse line that you defined as the origin.
# A window will popup showing the tool path. Zoom in closer to your part and inspect where the tool path is. The program will display cuts as a thick red line. Make sure that these projected cut lines are on the proper side of the line that you specified. If all looks well, hit "save" on the bottom, left of your screen.
'''Waterjet Operation :'''
# Open the water valve located on the wall behind the waterjet. It will be open when the handle is parallel to the water pipe. Be sure to only turn in on BEFORE powering the machine.
# Check the pressure gauge to verify that the water pressure is 40 psi or greater.
# Fill the tank to the top of the metal ribs with the water hose on the right side of the machine.
# Check the garnet hopper. If it is low, fill it up.
# Power on the computer and plug in the USB.
# Power on the waterjet cutter.
# Open MAKE.
# Zero the waterjet cutter head using MAKE.
# Push the clear plastic hose into the hole located on the side of the nozzle. This hose is called the abrasive feed tube and is used to mix abrasive into the water.
# Position the nozzle between two of the metal ribs, close the lid, and test the nozzle using MAKE. When closing the lid, the support bar on the right side of the lid must be lifted otherwise it will not close. There are two things that should be checked when performing the nozzle test. First, check that the water is flowing through the nozzle. This is necessary because the nozzle can get clogged. Second, check that there is abrasive flowing through plastic tube. It flows quickly but can be identified by a sparkling in the tube as it flows.
#Open the lid, position the material in the machine, and clamp it down. To clamp down the material, first slip the clamping post into the slot on the crossbar and the twist clockwise to tighten it into place. Then slide the material clamp over the post and push down to tighten. Repeat this process with any other clamps that are needed to secure the material. The clamping system can be seen below.[[File:Waterjet_clamps.jpg|none|thumb|479x479px]]
# Load the cut file into MAKE, select the material being cut, and enter its thickness.
# Set the origin point for the machine in MAKE.
# Position the nozzle over the material and adjust the height of the nozzle very carefully making sure the adjustment tool has enough room to wiggle up and down. Do this by loosening the knob on the side of the nozzle with one hand while holding the nozzle with the other. Be very careful not to drop the nozzle onto the material as it could be broken. Slide the adjustment tool, pictured below, under the nozzle and then carefully lower the nozzle onto it. Tighten the knob once the nozzle is positioned correctly.
# Continue to fill the tank with more water so that there is about 1/8" of water above the surface of the material.
# Execute a dry run using MAKE while ensuring that the nozzle will not collide with anything.
# Flip the orange rubber cone down, run the cut. While the cut is running look for material excess floating up; pieces of cut material floating up and getting wedged between the nozzle and other material or clamps could cause a catastrophic failure. If you see any of these things, pause the cut and remove any obstructions before resuming.
'''Waterjet Shutdown:'''
# Remove the material and clamps from the work area.
# Remove the abrasive feed tube from the nozzle.
# Position the nozzle between two of the metal ribs and run a nozzle test to clear any remaining abrasive from the nozzle and prevent future clogging. Also known as purging the nozzle of garnet.
# Bring the nozzle back to its home position.
# Close MAKE.
# Shut down the laptop.
# Turn off the waterjet.
# Push down on the drain tube to begin letting water out of the tank. Do not pull on the drain tube because it can pop off.
# Drain the tank till it is half full or less. While the water is draining, use the hose to wash off any abrasive in the work area or stuck to the side of the machine.
# Close the lid.
# Close the water valve so that the handle is perpendicular to the pipe.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1303 Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
====ProtoMAX Layout====
[[File:WaterJet_Error_Message.png|150px]]

There are three different types of errors that can show up after you post
*Collision error
*Possible offsets to wrong side
*Inside radii is smaller than offset
If your program has a collision error, the paths are probably overlapping. try situating the i/o lines so that they do not overlap.
If your program has a possible offsets to wrong side error, it means it is cutting on the wrong side. One way to fix that is to change the lead in angle so that it leads into the direction you want to cut in.

====Water Jet Cutter====
There are a few common issues you may run into when using the waterjet. First, there may be an issue reaching the proper water level for your material. This is caused by the drain tube on the right side of the tank being at the incorrect height and can be fixed by pushing the drain tube up or down to remove water or allow more to enter. Make sure to wear gloves when doing this to protect from bacteria and never pull on the tube because it can be pulled off. If the tube does pull off don't panic; wait for the water to drain low enough to push the tube back on and then do so.

Another issue is that the abrasive may not be flowing through its tube when performing the nozzle test. If this is happening do not perform a cut until the abrasive if flowing properly. The first thing you should check is the abrasive tube. Make sure that it is completely pushed into the nozzle so that it can be pulled out of the hopper by the vacuum within the nozzle. If this does not fix the issue then there is most likely water in the hose and maybe even in the hopper which causes the abrasive to stick to the feed tube tube instead of flowing through properly. Remove the hopper splash guard, pull the feed tube out of the feed block, and then use an air hose to blow through the feed to clean out any moisture. These components can be seen in the image below. Sometimes the water will travel into the hopper itself and cause the abrasive to clump together. When this happens either wait a day for everything to dry out or carefully disassemble the hopper system and dry it out with the help of an ACE and the [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401434/nozzle-clog.htm?tocpath=MANUALS%7COPERATION%20GUIDE%7C_____11 user manual].
[[File:Waterjet_Abrasive.jpg|none|thumb|799x799px]]

Water in the abrasive feed tube is most often caused by the nozzle being clogged. Unclogging the nozzle is a fairly intensive and delicate process and should be done with the help of an ACE. Always reference the manufacturer's [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401434/nozzle-clog.htm?tocpath=MANUALS%7COPERATION%20GUIDE%7C_____11 nozzle clog procedure] for the complete process (video included). Before unclogging the nozzle, remove the yellow rubber cone and raise the nozzle as high as it can go while being careful not to let it drop onto the material. [[File:Waterjet_Nozzle.jpg|none|thumb|496x496px]]
#Once this is done, use the included torque wrench to loosen the set screw holding the mixing tube (1) in place. Make sure to hold onto the tube when doing this so it does not drop out.
# Remove the tube and reinsert it upside down so that the pointed end is facing upward.
# Very carefully tighten the set screw to 15 in-lb using the torque wrench. The torque wrench will click when 15 in-lb is reached but it is very faint so tighten slowly or the entire tube will be crushed.
# Run a nozzle test using MAKE and make sure water is flowing through the tube.
# Using the torque wrench, carefully remove the mixing tube and reinsert it in its proper position with the pointed end facing down.
# Replace the yellow rubber cone and then run a nozzle test to check that the clog is gone.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The waterjet has several items that need to be maintained by the student or the ACE. Please refer to the table below to see each procedure and how often it should occur. The details of each procedure can be found below as well.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|1
|General washing
|After each use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|2
|Change pump oil
|After first 50 hrs of use and every subsequent 500 hrs of use
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|3
|Change water filter
|When the filter gauge approaches 25 psi or lower while the pump is running
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|4
|Remove material from tank bottom
|Whenever garnet abrasive reaches the bottom of the garnet collection bins or when excessive water turbulence is noticed during cutting
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|5
|Replace table slats
|Rotate monthly or more frequently if needed; replace when excessively scored and no longer stable
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|6
|Lubricate x-y axis
|After 500 cutting hours or if squeaking
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|7
|Replace nozzle filter
|After approximately 80 cutting hours or more frequently if needed
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|8
|Rotate mixing tube
|Rotate 90 degrees (one quarter turn) every 8 hours of cutting to even out wear
|Ace or Justin
|
|}
# General washing - This consists of washing off any abrasive from the inside of the machine into the bottom of the tank using the water hose, including the lid.
# For details on changing the pump oil click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/change-pump-oil.htm?tocpath=MANUALS%7CMAINTENANCE%20GUIDE%7CPump%20Maintenance%7C_____2 here].
# For details on changing the water filter click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/change-water-filter.htm here].
# For details on cleaning the tank click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/clean-catcher-tank.htm here].
# For details on changing the table slats click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/change-water-filter.htm here].
# For details on lubricating the y axis click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/lube-y-lead-screw.htm here] or [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/lube-x-lead-screw.htm here] for the x axis.
# For details on changing the nozzle filter click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/replace-nozzle-filter.htm here].
# To rotate the mixing tube, first loosen the set screw with the torque wrench while holding the tube in the other hand. Twist the tube a quarter turn and make sure it is pressed all the way up so that it is seated properly. Tighten the set screw with the torque wrench set to 15 in-lb while looking out for the faint click which signifies the proper tightness. Make sure to set the torque wrench to 0 when finished.

Leatherworking Station

2022-10-04T16:30:39Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=The Vault
|Is used in domain=Leather
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has redirect={{FULLPAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Leatherworking Station Icon.png
|Has icondesc=Leatherworking Station Icon
|Has iconwname=File:Leatherworking Station Icon.png
|Has image=File:Leatherworking Station 2.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Leatherworking Station
|Has description=Leatherworking Station
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1226
|Has make=Various
|Has model=Various
|Has serial number=Various
|Has ace=Dane Ziegler;dziegler22@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|500px|right|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Safety First==
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]
Here are some safety instructions for the {{PAGENAME}}. Remember... SAFETY FIRST!!!
* Do not laser cut chrome-tanned leather; this will produce toxic fumes (cyanide gas). Only vegetable-tanned leather is ok to laser cut. If you don't know which type of leather you are using, check with the Maker Hub staff before using the laser cutters.
* You must wear safety glasses when performing any type of hammering at the leatherworking station. Anyone else within a 6-foot radius of you should put on safety glasses too.
* Apply leather dyes and finishes in the finishing room to minimize breathing their vapors.
* Remember that there are many sharp and pointy tools at the leatherworking station that are specifically designed to cut and puncture cow skin. If it can cut/puncture cow skin, it can certainly cut/puncture your skin. Treat the tools with respect, and exercise good judgment when cutting and puncturing to keep yourself out of the tool's path.

==Description==

Many leatherworking techniques do not require a high level of skill to get started. With a basic familiarity of the tools and what each one is used for, a large variety of leather projects become accessible. The main goal of this training course is to show you a wide range of tools and give you an opportunity to practice with them.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

<gallery>
File:LW Awl.jpg|Awl
File:LW Burnishing Cloth.jpg|Burnishing Cloth
File:LW Dobbers.jpg|Daubers
File:LW Dye.jpg|Leather Dye
File:LW Edger.jpg|Edge Beveler
File:LW End Punch.jpg|End Punch
File:LW Hole Punch Set.jpg|Hole Punch Set
File:LW Manual Leather Sewing Machine.jpg|Manual Leather Sewing Machine
File:LW Neatsfoot Oil.jpg|100% Pure Neatsfoot Oil
File:LW Rawhide Hammer.jpg|Rawhide Hammer
File:LW Revolving Punch.jpg|Revolving Punch
File:LW Rivet Setter.jpg|Rivet Setter
File:LW Sewing Awl.jpg|Sewing Awl
File:LW Leather Shears.jpg|Leather Shears
File:LW Stitching Chisel.jpg|Stitching Chisel
File:LW Stitching Groover.jpg|Stitching Groover
File:LW Stitching Pony.png|Stitching Pony
File:LW Strap Cutter.jpg|Strap Cutter
File:LW Swivel Knife.jpg|Swivel Knife
</gallery>

'''Vegetable-tanned Leather''' is tanned with natural vegetable tannins to alter the protein structure of the hide, causing it to become leather. This type of leather typically takes a longer amount of time to create. Approximately 10% of all leather is vegetable-tanned.

'''Chrome-tanned Leather''' uses chemicals to tan and is a faster, less costly process. Chrome-tanned leather comes in a large variety of colors and is often less stiff than untreated vegetable-tanned leather. Approximately 90% of all leather is chrome-tanned. Do not laser cut chrome-tanned leather.

For an excellent explanation on the differences between vegetable-tanned leather and chrome-tanned leather, watch [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6D3TrHqhJHw| this video from Gentleman's Gazette].
 
 
'''Awl''' - An awl is a tool with a metal point used for marking, piercing, punching, or sewing leather.

'''Burnishing Cloth''' - A canvas-like material that will burnish (to seal, smooth, and make shiny through rubbing friction) the edges of your leather workpiece. These can also remove char after using a laser engraver.

'''Wood Burnisher''' - A wooden piece with grooves that is used to smooth and harden the edges of leather through applied friction and pressure.

'''Daubers''' - Daubers are used to apply oil or dye to your leather workpiece.

'''Leather Dye''' - Leather dye will stain your vegetable-tanned leather. We have a variety of colors available.

'''Edge Beveler''' - An edge beveler is a tool with a sharpened metal notch that is used to remove the square corners from the edges of leather goods.

'''End Punch''' - An end punch is used to cut smooth and clean tips on belts and straps up to 2" wide.

'''Hole Punch Set''' and '''Revolving Punch''' - Leather punches are hole punches specifically for making holes of various sizes in leather. They are great for setting rivets or making holes in belts and collars.

'''Manual Leather Sewing Machine''' - A heavy duty, hand-cranked sewing machine. Please receive proper training on threading and operation before using.

'''Neatsfoot Oil''' - Neatsfoot oil is an oil finish for leather that comes from the shin bones and feet of cattle. It's used to soften, condition, and preserve leather products.

'''Rawhide Hammer''' - A rawhide hammer (also called a leather maul) is a striking tool used for stamping, tooling, setting rivets, and more.

'''Rivet Setter''' - A set of tools used for setting rivets in leather.

'''Leather Shears''' - Heavy duty scissors that cut through leather quite easily.

'''Stitching Chisel''' - Stitching chisels are tools that are used for marking and creating holes in leather--usually for hand-sewing purposes. They are built with equally spaced metal points.

'''Stitching Groover''' - A tool that marks a groove around the edge of your workpiece by applying downward pressure as you drag the tool. The guide can be adjusted for different depths of inset grooves.

'''Stitching Pony''' - A device that keeps leather securely in place while hand-sewing, stitching, or lacing.

'''Strap Cutter''' - A tool designed to cut leather strips up to 4" wide as the leather is pushed/pulled across a small blade.

'''Swivel Knife''' - A swivel knife is used to outline and cut a design into the surface of leather as an initial stage to tooling the leather with decorations.

==Training==
====Operation====

Collectively, the leatherworking station is treated as a single piece of equipment--comprised of an assortment of tools. Each tool has a specific purpose, and half of the battle is just knowing what each tool does. The General Procedure section explains the process of various techniques you'll perform in the demonstration.

====Demonstration====

The demonstration for the leatherworking station will be an overview of the tools and techniques. Take a piece of scrap leather and perform the following actions:
*Take the strap cutter and cut a 0.5" strip of leather
*Practice punching a couple holes with either the rotary punch or the hole punch set
*Set the stitching groover to run a groove around the edges of your leather strip
*Use the edge beveler to round the top and bottom edges
*Burnish the edges of your leather strip with the wood burnisher, the burnishing cloth, or the burnishing attachment for the Dremel tool
*Prepare the leather for some hand-sewing by puncturing it with an awl or a stitching chisel
*Secure your leather strip in the stitching pony and attempt to sew using a saddle stitch in a few of the stitching holes you made

There are many more skills associated with leatherworking; this demonstration is only designed to cover the basics.

====General Procedure====

'''Cutting Leather''' is one of the first things you’ll do for your project. And this is something that’s pretty easy, but there’s a right way to cut and a not-so-right way. Because cutting out the leather is generally the first step in making a leather item and your cuts affect the difficulty of the steps that follow. Clean cuts ensure that burnishing is easy and your stitching lines are straight. Getting a clean cut is all about scoring, using a ruler that won’t slip and having a sharp knife or rotary cutting tool.

'''Hand-Stitching''' is one of the harder skills to learn, but it's still easy to pick up. Stitching a leather project together is a multi-step process. It involves marking out your stitching lines, punching your stitching holes, and finally saddle stitching the item together. Saddle stitching is a hand stitch that is widely used in leatherworking due to its durability. See the steps below along with the video to learn how to saddle stitch.

First, mark your stitching lines with a groover. If you’re not sure how far in to set your stitch, a general rule of thumb is to have the distance between the stitching and the edge be the same as the thickness of the edge.

Second, punch your stitching holes using a stitching chisel. Use the rawhide hammer to pound the stitching chisel with a scrap wood block underneath to avoid damaging the table. The main trick to this technique is to make sure that your chisel is perfectly perpendicular to the leather. A slight angle one way or the other will make it so the stitching on the backside doesn’t line up. This is especially a problem on thicker projects, like belts.

How much thread do I need? This depends greatly on the thickness of the leather and the style of stitch. For saddle stitching, it's recommended to cut thread that is between 4-lengths (for thinner projects) and 8-lengths (for thicker projects) of the total stitching length on the piece of leather. How tight you pull the thread will also make a big difference in how much thread is needed. No need to pull with all your might, but definitely don't leave your stitches loose.

Now to the hard part: saddle stitching. Once you have the needles through the first hole, take the needle on the left side and push it through the leather. Then, with the right needle, come behind the left needle to make a cross. Next, with the right needle still behind the left needle, pull the left needle through and rotate your hand toward you so that the left needle is now facing you and the right needle is facing the stitching holes.

Finally, put the right needle through the same hole you just pulled the left needle through. If you used a diamond chisel, each hole will be a diamond shape. This means that each hole has a high point and a low point. For your stitching to look uniform you need to consistently put the right needle back through the hole at the same point in the diamond, ideally the point of the diamond that is closest to you (assuming you are stitching towards yourself using the stitching pony). Once the needle is through, pull both tight. At that point, you’ve finished your first saddle stitch. On to the next one. Once you’ve completed your entire stitching line, you’ll need to backstitch. Back stitching is a saddle stitch that goes backwards 2-3 holes to make sure the thread won’t come loose.

Here is a video that shows the saddle stitching technique.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QS2jPZCLCg}}
 
'''Threading a Needle''' is actually a skill too. Here's a quick aside on how to do it with waxed thread. Click on each image to see more detail.

<gallery>
File:Thread1.jpg|Cut the thread to the needed length
File:Thread2.jpg|Roll or flatten the tip of the thread to put it through the eye of the needle
File:Thread3.jpg|With the thread extending 1-2" beyond the tip of the needle, pierce the center of the thread with the needle
File:Thread4.jpg|Pull the pierced section of thread beyond the eye of the needle to create a knot
File:Thread5.jpg|Pull from both sides of the thread to tighten the knot
File:Thread6.jpg|Slide the knot to the top of the eye, and now you are ready to stitch
</gallery>

Why do we need a knot around the eye of the needle? It keeps the thread from falling out of the eye of the needle as you pull it through the leather. Why not just tie a regular old knot to secure the thread to the eye of the needle? This type of knot is low-profile and won't unnecessarily enlarge the holes you made for stitching as you pull the knot through the leather.

'''Burnishing''' the edges of your leather will give your project a finished, professional look. Burnishing finishes the edges by melting the loose fibers together with heat created through friction. Basically, that just means you rub the edges with a wood burnisher or burnishing cloth until it looks good. A simple burnishing process includes: beveling the edges, sanding them, dyeing them, burnishing them, and then finishing the edge with glycerin soap or wax.

[[File:Simplified+Burnishing+Edge+Prep.png|750px]]

First, you’ll need to bevel your edges. The reason for this is that the surface of the leather will start to fold over as you sand the edge. Beveling basically removes the part that would fold over. Beveling is super easy. All you need to do is run the beveler smoothly and consistently along the edge with a moderate amount of force.

Next, you’ll need to get the edges nice and smooth. First, start with a 200 grit sandpaper; this will even out any part of the edge that is not flat with the rest. Then, sand off loose fibers with a 600 grit sandpaper.

Once the edges are smoothed out, it’s time to decide whether to dye the edge or not. Dying the edge isn’t something you have to do. If you want your edge to be a natural color, then don’t dye it. Typically though, you can dye the edge with the same color used to dye the surface. Burnished edges will naturally darken, so using the same dye provides a darker shade of the same color, which always looks good. Make sure to apply any dye in the [[Finishing Room]].

Now, it’s time to actually burnish. To do this, dip your finger in water and lightly wet the edges. Make sure not to soak the edges though. Leather becomes very pliable when soaked and can be molded. This is great for other things, but not so much when your burnishing. Once you’ve put water on the edges, rub a wood burnisher or burnishing cloth across it briskly until the edges start to darken and shine. You’ll know you’re done when you start to hear a tacky sound.

And finally, apply some glycerin soap or wax to the edge. This helps keep the leather water-resistant and seals the edges. After applying the glycerin soap or wax, buff the edges again with a burnishing cloth.

'''Dyeing Leather''' is tricky. Getting a nice even coat of dye on leather takes not only the know how, but also the skill that comes with lots and lots of practice. There are many different ways to dye leather. Here is one recommended method.

First, all leather dyeing must occur in the [[Finishing Room]] with proper ventilation. The fumes from leather dyes are not good for you.

Secondly, put on gloves. Leather dye does not come off of your hands easily. A glove station is located in the Machine Shop just to the left of the Finishing Room door.

You can dye any unfinished vegetable-tanned leather. In fact, you can probably dye pre-dyed veg tanned leather... but why? Just be aware that there are waxes on top of finished leathers that will not allow the dye to penetrate the leather well. Regardless of your skills with dyeing, be aware that dyeing often reveals various marks and inconsistencies in the leather grain.

Before dyeing, wipe down your leather piece with a cloth or paper towel to remove any dust or contaminants. This will help create an even coat.

What is "cutting a dye" and why would I bother doing it? Cutting a dye reduces its potency by mixing the dye with a dye reducer. This allows you to apply several coats for a smooth and uniform finish. The more coats you do, the smoother your dye is going to look. At the same time, the more coats you do, the darker the finish will be. So, if you achieve the color you want on your first pass of dye but the finish isn't as smooth/uniform as you want, you won’t be able to apply more dye to help even out the finish. Instead, you’ll get a very marbled look... which is ok if that’s what you’re going for. If you don't cut the dye at all, it will be quite concentrated. A little dye will go a long way. Start with super light and thin strokes with the dauber. Avoid drenching your leather workpiece in the dye as this can produce some unwanted results (like your blue dye turning copper-colored). The following procedure assumes you have cut the dye.

For your first coat (or base coat), apply the dye in a circular motion. This is easily the most important coat. First you’ll dip your dauber, cloth, or sponge into the dye. Start with a very light pressure and slowly increase pressure in your circular motions as the dye absorbs into the leather. Then allow it to dry.

Here are a few tips for applying this coat evenly and consistently.

When you first set your dauber, cloth, or sponge onto the leather it is going to be loaded up with dye, and if you apply pressure when you first set it onto the leather that one spot is then going to be loaded up with dye. When you first start, apply little to no pressure. As you keep going and less dye is being released from the dauber/cloth/sponge, begin applying more pressure to release an equal amount of dye as before. When the dye starts getting spotty, reload the dauber/cloth/sponge with dye. Basically when the area you just passed over isn’t completely covered in dye, it’s time to get some more. As you dye with circular motion, overlap half of your previous circle with your new circle as you go. Don’t shy away from the edges. Make sure you dye the leather on something you don’t mind getting dye on, because you should be dyeing beyond the edge of the leather. If you treat the edge of the leather like the end of where you should dye, you’ll approach it timidly and the edges will look less dyed than the rest of the project. You can get a piece of cardboard from the low fidelity prototyping station to use as a platform for dyeing in the Finishing Room. Let your base coat dry.

Apply your second and third coats diagonally. The second coat can go back and forth diagonally to the right; the third coat can go back and forth diagonally to the left. Make sure to go beyond the edge of the leather piece for an even coat. Always allow time for drying between coats.

With this 3-coat method, the grain of the leather has been hit with dye from every direction, and there should be no spotty or undyed parts. You can buff the finish with a burnishing cloth once it has dried.

Once this final coat has dried, you need to put a finish on the leather. If you decide to skip this step, whoever is using the item you made will end up with leather dye on their clothes. This is bad, so use a finish. While a finish won't completely prevent dye rub off, it will greatly reduce it when applied to the leather properly. Fiebing's Tan Kote works well as a finish, which can be purchases as either a gloss of matte finish. This can be applied in one coat; just work it into the leather using the same circular motion from before. Once you’ve worked it in evenly, leave it alone and let it dry. Touching it at all during the drying process will ruin the finish. After the finish has had time to dry, buff it with a cotton cloth. Finally, the dyeing and finishing process is complete!

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1226 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==

Practice makes perfect. Don't expect your first leatherworking project to be a masterpiece. Many of these leatherworking techniques simply need to be practiced to gain proficiency.

For additional info, check out these websites: [https://www.instructables.com/Introduction-to-Leatherworking/ Instructables], [https://www.manmadediy.com/4482-it-s-easier-than-you-think-a-simple-straightforward-guide-to-getting-started-in-leatherworking/?chrome=1&A1c=1&D2c=1 MMDIY].

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The manual sewing machine and the tooling are the only parts of the leatherworking station that need periodic maintenance.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Lubricate the Manual Sewing Machine
|Yearly
|Maker Hub Technician
|-
|Sharpen the Tooling
|Yearly
|Maker Hub Technician
|}

Electronics Workstation

2022-09-30T17:47:47Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Has make=BK Precision
|Has make=Teletronix
|Has model=1651A DC Power Supply
|Has model=4017A Function Generator
|Has model=TDS 2024 Oscilloscope
|Has model=2831 4 1/2 Digital Multimeter
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Is located in facility=Tool Room
|Is located in facility=The Hub
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has function=Measurement
|Has icon=File:Electronics Workstation 2.png
|Has icondesc=Oscilloscope graphic
|Has image=File:Electronics Workstation 2.png
|Has imagedesc=Electronics Workstation
|Has description=Standard electronics measurement and signal generation equipment.
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1271
|Has ace=Nick Scianna;nscianna18@georgefox.edu
}}
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__TOC__

==DC Power Supply==
[[File:DC PS Controls.jpg|400px|thumb|right|DC Power Supply Controls]]
The most basic function of a DC power supply is to provide a constant voltage to a device. “DC” stands for direct current; “AC” stands for alternating current. A 9V battery is an example of a DC voltage, and it will hold a constant 9 volts (at least until the battery starts to die). A 120V wall outlet is an example of an AC voltage, and it will fluctuate up and down from 120V to -120V and back to 120V over a set period of time. A DC power supply converts the alternating current from a wall outlet to a steady direct current through a system of transformers and filtering circuitry. We have a couple different models of DC power supplies in the Maker Hub.

===Setting Up a DC Power Supply===

Do not start by simply turning the power supply on. You don’t know how the last person who used the power supply left the settings. You could damage the circuitry of your device if you provide a voltage that is above the voltage rating of any of your components. It’s best to start with the power supply off and all the knobs turned to the minimum position. Only turn the power supply on once you’ve selected your output(s) and connected wire leads to your device.

DC power supplies typically have multiple outputs. Based on the needs of your device, you will need to choose an appropriate output that supplies enough voltage and current. It is ok if the output is rated for a higher voltage/current than your device needs, but you will run into problems if the output voltage/current is less than the demands of your device.
Once you have selected your output, connect wire leads to your breadboard or device using the banana plugs or alligator clips. You can also connect 22 AWG wire directly to the terminal if you unscrew the banana plug terminal, insert a section of bare wire, and screw the terminal back down to create a solid connection. However, use banana plugs or alligator clips first to avoid wasting wire. After you’ve checked all of your connections, it would be a good time to discuss a few safety notes before turning everything on.

===Safety Notes===

It’s good practice to minimize the amount of bare, exposed wire in your circuit because this reduces the risk of shock or short circuits. Most projects that would use the DC power supplies in the Maker Hub would be considered low voltage, but that does not sanction careless “rat’s nest” wiring with exposed live wires. Design neat circuits that maintain a proper separation of line voltages and neutral/ground connections to reduce the chance of free-moving wires touching and creating a short circuit. A short circuit occurs when an electrical circuit of significantly lower resistance is completed (unintentionally); this is usually a result of accidental contact between electrical components or an internal component failure. Short circuits are dangerous high-current events and can cause fires, component damage, blown fuses, and tripped circuit breakers. We would like to avoid that.
If you are going to make a physical adjustment to a circuit, unplug or turn off the power to the circuit first. Certain electrical components (such as capacitors) can retain a voltage/charge even after the power to a circuit has been cut. You can test voltages with a multimeter to ensure that the circuit is discharged, or ask the Maker Hub staff for assistance if you are unsure. It is also good practice to work on circuitry with one hand. Using two hands increases the risk of completing a circuit across your heart from one arm to the other, which can be fatal. It only takes about 100mA across the heart to kill a human. However, this risk is extremely small when working with low voltages because low voltages are unable to drive that much current through a human body. Seek guidance from the Maker Hub staff before working with voltages above 50V (AC or DC).

===Using a DC Power Supply===

With all voltage and current knobs set to minimum, turn on the power supply. If you need a very specific voltage, you may also connect the digital multimeter to the output of the DC power supply to give you a more accurate reading of the voltage. If your current knob is at the minimum, you may notice that nothing happens when you increase the voltage knob and a red LED turns on. This is because the current knob on a DC power supply operates as a current limiter. At the minimum, the current knob will allow zero amps to flow, which means that the DC power supply will not provide any voltage. The purpose of the current limiter is to protect your circuit from damage. For example, if you know that your 100Ω resistor is rated at 0.25W, you might set your current limiter such that not more than 50mA will flow through that particular resistor to avoid burning it up (letting out the magic smoke).
If you’ve done your calculations, you may not need to be as cautious with the current limiter, but it’s always a good idea to start low with the current limiter every time you are powering an untested circuit. Rarely will an insufficient current or voltage ever cause damage to analog or digital circuits. Granted, the circuit probably won’t function as expected with insufficient current/voltage, but it should be fine to slowly increase the current/voltage to the desired amount when you are first setting your DC power.

Set the current limiter above its minimum, and slowly increase the voltage to the desired amount. After you have set your voltage and current correctly, you don’t need to change the settings at this point. Simply turn on/off the DC power supply as needed with the power switch or the voltage knob. Do not disconnect the leads from your circuit while the power supply is still on; free-floating leads are a short-circuit risk. Disconnecting live wires is a bad habit that becomes extremely dangerous if you work with higher voltages due to arcing hazards.

In case you were curious, the DC power supply’s primary love language is acts of service.

==Function Generator==
[[File:Waveforms.png|400px|thumb|right|Different Waveform Shapes]]
A function generator creates AC periodic waveforms; it allows the user to manipulate an electrical signal’s amplitude, duty cycle, offset, and frequency over a wide range of values. This function generator can produce sine, square, triangle, ramp/sawtooth, and digital pulse waveforms. The manual for this function generator is fairly well-written, so I will only highlight a few excerpts here. I would encourage you to read the manual for complete operating instructions.

===Controls===
[[File:FG Controls.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Function Generator Controls]]
There are eight range switches that select output frequencies from <1Hz to 10MHz. The coarse frequency knob adjusts the frequency within a range from 10%-of-the-maximum to the maximum. For example, if the 100kHz range is selected, the output frequency can be adjusted from 10kHz to 100kHz. The duty cycle, CMOS level, DC offset, and -20dB functions are only active if their corresponding switches are pressed in. The duty cycle knob alters the symmetry of the waveform through skewing or changing the ratio of “on” time versus “off” time. The DC offset changes the mean amplitude of the waveform. Reference the manual for information on more advanced capabilities such as the sweep functions, TTL/CMOS, and voltage-controlled generation.
The best way to “see” the output of a function generator is to use an oscilloscope. An oscilloscope will show you a graphical representation of the signal, and allow you to understand the effects of the waveform shape, frequency range switches, coarse/fine adjustment, duty cycle, DC offset, etc.
A function generator is designed as a precision device that can produce very specific waveforms; it is not designed as a powering device capable of generating large voltages or currents from its output. This is one of the reasons why a function generator is commonly used alongside a DC power supply. A common benchtop DC power supply excels at providing a precise DC voltage at a moderate current (usually less than 10A), but it cannot produce waveforms on its own. If you want to produce a waveform with moderate voltage/current, one great method is to design an amplifier circuit. An amplifier circuit commonly uses a transistor (or series of transistors) to turn small low-power signals into larger moderate-power signals. The function generator provides the small signal to the input of the transistor, which modulates the DC voltage at the output of the transistor to create a larger moderate-power signal.

===Impedance===

Next to the output terminal on the function generator, it says “50Ω.” This means that the output impedance of the function generator is 50Ω, which is considered a low output impedance. Impedance is similar in concept to resistance, but it includes additional complex elements that describe a frequency-dependent resistance in AC circuits. A low impedance output offers a couple of options: you can design the input of your circuit for impedance matching (maximum power transfer to the load) or impedance bridging (maximum voltage signal to the load). In this case, impedance matching would mean that the input impedance of your circuit is also at 50Ω. For impedance bridging, the input impedance of your circuit would be much much greater than 50Ω (on the order of kΩ or MΩ). The circuit you’ll be testing in this certification is designed for impedance bridging with the function generator.
Why mention all this business about impedance? This will help you know what to expect from the function generator and how to design circuits better. In the manual, it states, “Remember that the output signal swing of the generator is limited to ±10V open circuited or ±5V into 50Ω, and applies to the combined peak-to-peak signal and DC offset. Clipping occurs slightly above these levels.” This means that if the function generator is impedance bridged with your circuit, don’t expect to generate signals outside of a ±10V range. If the function generator is impedance matched with your circuit, don’t expect to generate signals outside of a ±5V range. This includes the DC offset in both cases. If your input impedance falls anywhere between 50Ω and an open circuit (∞Ω), the maximum signal you can get from the function generator will fall between ±5V and ±10V, respectively. Unless you really know what you are doing, do not use the function generator on circuits that have an input impedance of less than 50 Ω. Similarly, do not choose an injection point in your circuit for the function generator that has a DC voltage higher than what can be achieved with the DC offset knob. Only choose injection points where the DC voltage can be matched with the DC offset knob; otherwise, this can cause internal damage to the function generator.

===Using a Function Generator===

You can test the function generator by connecting it directly to an oscilloscope probe. Just remember that the function generator will be impedance bridged with the oscilloscope, so you may observe a slight reduction in your signal’s amplitude after connecting the function generator to your circuit. After checking your circuit, connect the leads from the function generator to the circuit before turning on the power. On our particular model of function generator, the output is always on, so keep that in mind as you use it.

Don’t be afraid to spend time with your function generator; its primary love language is definitely quality time.

==Oscilloscope==

An oscilloscope is an instrument that graphically displays electrical signals and shows how those signals change over time. These electrical signals are measured with a probe that reads voltages (not current). Oscilloscopes allow you to measure things like frequency, amplitude, averages, peaks, and rise/fall times.

===Using an Oscilloscope===

The first lesson of oscilloscopes is: do not press the AUTOSET button. It is actually a mislabeled self-destruct button. This reprehensible act invokes several other abominable events… interdimensional denizens tear a gash in reality, evil spirits are summoned, and you’ll have bad luck for seven years. Few have survived long enough to pass on this wisdom. Consider yourself warned.

Seriously though, you won’t learn how to properly set triggers, display signals, or troubleshoot problems if you rely heavily on the AUTOSET button. Though the oscilloscope may look complicated, it’s not hard to understand once you get to know it. For the purposes of this certification, the AUTOSET button is off-limits, so you can save yourself the seven years’ bad luck.

One of the first things we need to understand about the oscilloscope is what it’s actually showing on the display screen. The display is set up like a standard Cartesian coordinate system. (you know, a graph...){{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sIlNIVXpIns|graph}}
[[File:Oscilloscope Controls.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Oscilloscope Controls]]
The units of the graph tell us a lot about what we are looking at. The y-axis is voltage, and the x-axis is time. So, an oscilloscope will show—in real time—how a voltage signal is changing over time. One key skill we need to learn when using the oscilloscope is to manipulate the scales of the x-axis and y-axis so that you can see the voltage signal clearly and meaningfully on the oscilloscope’s display.
There are 4 BNC jacks are on the bottom row of the oscilloscope’s control panel. Each one corresponds to channels 1, 2, 3, and 4. This is where you will plug in the probes that will measure various voltage signals in your circuit. Let’s discuss the knobs and buttons under the VERTICAL section of the control panel. For CH 1, the POSITION knob will move the signal on the display screen of the oscilloscope up and down the y-axis. This is handy when there is a DC voltage offset applied to the AC signal. The VOLTS/DIVISION knob will stretch or shrink the y-axis so that you can see the waveform’s amplitude properly. If the peaks or troughs of the waveform are hitting the top and/or bottom of the display screen, use the VOLTS/DIVISION knob to shrink the y-axis so that the full waveform can be seen. The CH 1 MENU button allows you to set up the probe properties and measurement displays for channel 1. The MATH MENU button allows you to perform operations between channels such as subtracting CH 2 from CH 1.

The HORIZONTAL section of the control panel let’s you manipulate the x-axis of the display screen. The POSITION knob acts as time offset. In most cases, this can be set to zero, but you’ll notice that you can shift the waveform left and right by turning this knob. The SECONDS/DIVISION knob will stretch or shrink the x-axis so that you can see the waveform’s frequency/period properly. If you’re ever wondering why your 100kHz sine wave looks like a solid fuzzy block on the display screen, you need to zoom way in with the SECONDS/DIVISION knob to see the individual peaks and troughs. You might do some basic math to know where you need to set the knob (sounds crazy, right???). 100kHz is the frequency… that means the period of the waveform is 10μS. If I set the SECONDS/DIVISION knob to 10μS per division, then I should see roughly 10 peaks and 10 troughs of the waveform on the display screen because there are 9 vertical dashed grid lines (8 plus the y-axis) across the screen that mark the divisions.

The trigger on an oscilloscope is an important part of properly displaying a waveform. The trigger determines when the oscilloscope starts to acquire data. When a trigger is set up properly, the oscilloscope converts unstable displays or blank screens into meaningful waveforms. Of the types of triggers available on this oscilloscope, most waveforms can be captured using the edge mode. In the TRIGGER section on the control panel of the oscilloscope, you’ll see a LEVEL knob. When you turn the LEVEL knob, you should see a little pointer moving up and down the side of the display screen (in the direction of the y-axis). Generally, the trigger level can be set to approximately the middle of the waveform for good results.

For this certification, select DC coupling from the 5 vertical buttons next to the display screen. The DC coupling option will show time-varying signals on a DC bias. The AC coupling mode will ignore any DC biases. Set both the probe and the channel to 10X attenuation.

Finally, the MEASURE and CURSOR buttons are useful for viewing the peak-to-peak voltage, period/frequency, rise/fall times, and several other measurements. The CURSOR button is used to setup the two cursors which can be used to measure and display two distinct points on the horizontal or vertical axis. The location of the cursors can be changed using the knob in the upper-left most corner of the control panel. The cursors can display useful time and amplitude values. The 5 vertical buttons can be used to alter settings for both the MEASURE and CURSOR buttons.

Practice sweet-talking your benchtop equipment; the oscilloscope’s primary love language is most certainly words of affirmation.

==Digital Multimeter==
[[File:DMM Controls.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Digital Multimeter Controls]]
A digital multimeter can measure a host of electrical properties including DC voltage and current, AC voltage and current, resistance, continuity, frequency, period, dB, dBm, True RMS AC+DC, and diode testing.

===Controls===

The buttons you need to be most familiar with when using the digital multimeter are the function keys: DC V, AC V, Ω, Freq, AC+DC, and Diode (the symbol that looks like a triangle pointing at a vertical line with two horizontal leads sticking out the ends). To access the functions written in blue, press the shift key and then press the respective function key. The blue functions include: DC I, AC I, Continuity, Period, dB, dBm. Let's talk about all of them very briefly.

The DC V function will measure a DC voltage (e.g. DC power supply). The AC V function will measure an AC voltage (e.g. function generator). The Ω function will measure real resistance (e.g. potentiometer). The Freq function will measure the frequency of an AC voltage signal from 5Hz through >1MHz. The AC+DC function will measure the True RMS value of AC+DC voltages or currents (i.e. AC signals with a DC offset). See the user manual for more info. The Diode function will measure the forward voltage drop of general-purpose diodes and Zener diodes.

For the functions in blue... The DC I function will measure DC current. Don't ask why the electrical engineers decided to use the variable "i" for current. It's complicated. The AC I function will measure AC current. Do not attempt to measure the AC current from a wall outlet; you will blow something up (potentially including yourself). The Continuity function (that looks like three sound waves) will deliver an audible beep when the probes sense less than 10Ω between them. The purpose of this function is to test the quality of various connection points in your circuit. It can answer questions like... Is this a good solder joint? Are these two components joined at the same node? Is this point in the circuit connected to ground? Did I accidentally fry this component? The Continuity function is an invaluable troubleshooting tool that allows you the freedom to poke around in your circuit to see if everything is connected like it's supposed to be. In most cases, you should have all source voltages turned off when you are testing continuity. The Period function will measure the time period of an AC voltage signal from 0.2s through <1μs. The dB and dBm functions are part of the math options and can measure the gain of a circuit. See the user manual for more info.

===Plugging In The Leads===

It is very important that you plug in the leads (cables, banana jacks, whatever you want to call them) into the correct terminals to make your measurement. The correct input terminals can change depending on what type of measurement you are performing. Failure to choose the correct terminals and set up the measurement properly can result in a blown fuse, damage to the digital multimeter, damage to another benchtop instrument, and/or damage to your circuit. So... read what each terminal is meant for before you start plugging things in willy-nilly.

The black COM terminal is either connected to ground or to the lower-voltage side of whatever you are measuring. It depends on what you are measuring.

The red terminal labelled with "V Ω Diode Hz Continuity" is used for all voltage, resistance, diode, frequency/period, and continuity functions described above (including the voltage measurement for AC+DC).

The two red terminals labelled 20A and 500mA MAX are used for all current functions described above (including the current measurement for AC+DC). Basically, the 20A terminal is for higher currents, and the 500mA MAX terminal is for low currents. If you're unsure of how much current you'll measure, always start with the 20A terminal first. Only then, switch to the low current terminal if the amperage is well below 500mA. Keep in mind that the 20A terminal will not give any readings in the "auto-detect" mode. You must set the range manually with the "Level/Value" up and down arrows.

====How To Measure With The Leads====

All voltage, resistance, diode, frequency/period, and continuity functions can be measured in parallel. For example, if I'm measuring a voltage drop across a resistor in my circuit, I don't need to alter the circuit in any way. I can simply connect the black COM terminal to the lower-voltage side of the resistor (maybe it's at ground potential... maybe it's not) and connect the "V Ω Diode Hz Continuity" terminal to the higher-voltage side of the resistor. This is a parallel measurement. For the resistance and diode functions, it's usually best to measure these components separate from the circuit to ensure that other circuit components do not influence the measurement (such as other resistors in parallel). If you're soldering up a PCB, measure the resistor's value before soldering with the resistor completely separate from all other components. If you're using a breadboard, turn off all source voltages (because you would always do this before physically altering your circuit, right???) and pop the resistor out of the board to measure it.

All current functions must be measured in series. This means you must choose an injection point in your circuit, break the electrical connection between the components, and connect the digital multimeter leads in a way that bridges the connection between the components. This is a series measurement. If you just made a voltage measurement and you are about to perform a current measurement, this requires several steps. First, turn off all source voltages. Second, disconnect the digital multimeter leads from the circuit. Third, swap the lead from the "V Ω Diode Hz Continuity" terminal to the 20A terminal. Fourth, alter your circuit so that you can insert the digital multimeter leads in series at your desired injection point. Fifth, turn the source voltages back on.

And finally, the digital multimeter has a real affection for measuring things hands-on. As you might guess, its primary love language is physical touch.

==Common Ground==

Ground (sometimes called neutral or earth) is usually at 0V. Ground acts a reference point for most electronic circuits. It is good practice to connect all ground references to a common point; inversely, it is a very bad practice to leave floating ground points in your circuit. If you are using multiple benchtop instruments simultaneously such as a DC power supply, signal generator, oscilloscope, and digital multimeter, you should create a common ground between all instruments (and your circuit too) to ensure that you get accurate measurements and don’t have strange circuit behavior.

==Demonstration==
[[File:E W Circuit Pic.jpg|400px|thumb|right]][[File:Resistor-color-chart.png|400px|thumb|right]]
Set up a breadboard with a 10kΩ potentiometer as a voltage divider. Connect an LED's anode (the longer leg) to the wiper of the potentiometer. Connect a 560Ω resistor to the cathode (the shorter leg), and connect the other side of the resistor to ground. See the demo circuit diagram for reference.
[[File:E W Circuit Diagram.jpg|400px|thumb|none|Demo Circuit Diagram]]
Part 1: Connect a DC power supply to the input and set it to 10V. Slowly adjust the potentiometer to determine how much voltage and current is needed to turn on the LED. Measure the voltage and current using the digital multimeter.

Part 2: Disconnect the DC power supply from the input and connect the function generator to the input. Connect the oscilloscope probes to both the input and output of the potentiometer to display the waveforms. Set the function generator to a sine wave to turn the LED on and off. Experiment with a DC offset and a square wave.
[[File:E W Oscilloscope Screen.jpg|400px|thumb|none|CH 1: Function generator signal to the input. CH 2: Output of the circuit measured at V2]]

==Documentation==
====User Manuals====

[[Media:1651A DC Power Supply.pdf|1651A DC Power Supply User Manual]]

[[Media:4017A Function Generator Manual.pdf|4017A Function Generator User Manual]]

[[Media:TDS 2024 Oscilloscope.pdf|TDS 2024 Oscilloscope User Manual]]

[[Media:2831E Digital Multimeter Manual.pdf|2831E Digital Multimeter User Manual]]

==Safety==

Always Always ALWAYS wear safety glasses when you are cutting things at the electronics workbench. This includes cutting wires, cutting component leads, and anything else you might decide to cut/slice/snip/strip. Flying pieces can become embedded in your eyes. Exercise some common sense, and don't let it happen to you. Don't let it happen you your neighbor either. If other people are working at the electronics workbench or standing nearby and you need to cut something, ask them to put of safety glasses or ask them to step away for 10 seconds. The Hub is a multi-purpose space. Some people will not be wearing safety glasses in The Hub. Don't angle your cut toward the sky like you are launching a cruise missile. Angle your cut down into the table or cover it with your free hand to block the projectile. Use situational awareness.

* Seek guidance from the Maker Hub staff before working with voltages above 50V (AC or DC).
* Always turn off or disconnect source voltages before physically altering a circuit.
* Be mindful of components--such as capacitors--that can store a charge even after the circuit has been turned off or disconnected from source voltages. Test with a multimeter if unsure.
* When possible and practical, work on circuits with one hand to reduce the risk of completing a circuit across your heart. With low voltages, the risk is extremely low, but this practice becomes vitally important when working with voltages above 50V (AC or DC).
* No "rat's nest" wiring. Minimize the amount of bare, exposed wire in your circuit--especially if it is loose and can move around easily. This is an electrocution and short circuit risk.
* If you somehow manage to start an electrical fire, use a fire extinguisher to put it out. NEVER use water to put out an electrical fire. Baking soda also works... should you happen to have it handy.
* Keep liquids away from the electronics workstation.

==Reset The Space==

The electronics workstation is a notorious area in the Maker Hub where messes are left behind. The same RESET THE SPACE principles apply to the electronics workstation as they do everywhere else in the Maker Hub. Clean up after yourself when you finish please.

* Make sure all benchtop instruments and soldering irons are turned off before leaving.
* Do not leave a pile of snipped leads or stripped wires behind.

==Be Professional==

* Do not waste the electronics supplies. We want there to be enough for everyone to use.
* Notify the Maker Hub staff if any of the equipment is not working properly.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1271 Canvas Quiz]

PCB Printer

2022-09-30T17:46:52Z

Justinj:

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|Has model=V-One
|Has group=Circuit Board Design
|Has make=Voltera
|Has serial number=V1-05-0129-120 / V1-04-0183-120
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__TOC__
==Description==

The PCB Printer (Voltera V-One) brings quick turn PCBs to your desktop. Import your Gerber file into the Voltera software, press print, and the V-One will bring your board to life. Use the drilling, solder paste dispensing, and reflow features to mount components onto your printed board, or mount components on a pre-fabricated board with ease.

This is a simple example of what the PCB Printer can do. Currently the PCB lab has a different baking process using a different oven, so we will be curing the boards using a different method than shown in the video.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6nEgN4THRE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

The following conductive inks and pastes are stocked in the PCB Lab. Each material requires a special heating program setting. See each individual material below for the proper reflow oven setting.

Inks are also identified by a lot name and expiration date. If properly installed, the expiration date should be viewable through the window in the dispenser, but the lot name will not. Refer to the label on the back of the dispenser for the lot name. When selecting the ink you're using in the Voltera software, it will identify the ink by type, lot name, and expiration date. Make sure you select the correct one.

[[File:voltera_aqueous.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Conductive Ink'''

- Use to lay conductive traces on substrates (Green is "V1 Ink" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_furious.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste'''

- Use only on boards that utilize Voltera's ink traces, such as the ink above. (Orange is "V1 Paste" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_armored.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste Sn63 Pb37'''

- Use only premade boards, such as ones from [https://jlcpcb.com/ JLCPCB] (Blue is "Sn63Pb37" on Reflow Oven)

 
 

<gallery>
File:Voltera substrates.jpg|Substrates
File:Vone probe.jpg|Probe
File:Dispenser and Sheath.jpg|Dispenser and Sheath
File:Voltera conductive ink.png|Conductive Ink Cartridge
File:Voltera 225 nozzle.jpg|Nozzle - 225 Micron
File:Voltera burnish.jpg|Burnishing Pads
</gallery>

[[Media:Voltera_V-One_Manual_English.pdf|Voltera User Manual]]

[https://support.voltera.io/circuit-design-guidelines Circuit Design Guidelines]

[https://support.voltera.io/altium#main Altium Gerber Export Guide]

[https://www.voltera.io/ Voltera Home Page]

[https://support.voltera.io/hc/en-us/sections/115001325748-User-Guides User Guides]

==Before you Print==

Here are a few things to check before exporting your gerber files and fabricating your PCB. [[File:Voltera-drillbits.png|thumb|300x300px|right|Available drill bit sizes]]

#Verify via hole sizes.
##Based on the size of what needs to go in the via, select a rivet with the proper internal diameter from the table on the [[Through Hole Press]] page.
##Once you've selected the rivet size, take the outer diameter of the rivet from the table and add 0.1mm.
##Check this outer diameter against the available drill sizes for the Voltera (see the image to the right). Round up to the nearest drill size and use that for the hole size in Altium.
#Verify annular ring size
##Your annular rings (via diameter) should be at least as large as the head diameter of the rivets you plan to use, otherwise they might not make good contact.
#Check that your design follows the circuit design guidelines at the link above

==Training==
====Operation====

The PCB Printer is a fantastic tool for prototyping PCBs. After uploading Gerber files from Altium or a related software, the Voltera will be able to print traces and pads. The Voltera has the ability to bake traces and reflow components on its heated bed, but you will need to use the reflow oven to bake boards. The PCB Lab uses the reflow oven for baking due to the amount of people it needs to accommodate, so users will only be using the PCB Printer to print traces and pads. The Conductive Ink (used for Traces) is indicated by a green dot on the dispenser, the Voltera Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by an orange dot on the dispenser, and the Manufactured Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by a blue dot on the dispenser.

Before beginning with your PCB, it is imperative that it is completely flat, meaning no components are installed, as it will result in breaking the nozzle of the dispenser, or it will be unable to calibrate correctly.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the PCB Printer, the student will design a PCB in Altium or related software, print the traces/pads, and transition to the Reflow Oven. As a part of the process, the student will also perform correct set up and shut down procedures, all of which can be found in the General Procedure below.

====General Procedure====

Using the Voltera to create single-sided boards with NO vias or holes.[[File:voltera_blinky_500.jpg|300x300px|thumb|right|Training board - The Blinky 500]]

#'''Drilling'''
##'''This board in particular does not have any holes, so this entire step can be skipped for this procedure''', however, these are the steps to take if you need to drill holes in the future.
##After opening the Voltera software, select Drill. This option is chosen only if you want to add holes to an existing board.
##For Drilling, you can either choose the Simple or Aligned route. Choose Simple if your board has no existing features, and choose Aligned if your board has some existing features. Lets go through the process for both.
##Drilling for a Simple Board
###Alrighty, you've chosen Simple, so this procedure assumes there is absolutely nothing fabricated on the board. Not gonna lie, this procedure is a little more sketchy than aligned simply because you literally eyeball your board's outline. The no eloquent calibration system. That's just how it works.
###Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
###Then it will ask you to move your boards location on the plate so the Voltera knows where it needs to drill. This is the sketchy part. It outlines a square, and you make a judgement based on what it thinks. If it outlines too low, move your circuit up further on the plate to compensate for it. If it outlines too far to the left, move your circuit to the right on the plate to compensate for it. Continue this process until it looks "good enough."
###Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication... [[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
###Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient. The transition between printing and drilling is done with the same alignment.
###Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
###The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
###And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
##Drilling for an Aligned Board
###Awesome, you've chosen Aligned, so this procedure assumes you have some preexisting holes and the like on the board.
###Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
###Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication...[[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
###Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
###Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green. Anything that is highlighted in Green will be executed.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
###The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
###And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
#'''Ready the Ink'''
##The ink is most usable when it reaches room temperature, so we have to let it warm up in advance.
##Grab the correct conductive ink from the fridge, and let it warm up to room temperature, about 15-30 minutes. It is labeled with a '''green''' sticker.
#'''Software Setup'''
##Download the files for this project [[Media:Pcb printer level 1.zip|here]].
##Power on the Voltera.
##Open the Voltera Windows application.
##Select "Print" and then "Simple." "Print" indicates that we want to print traces, and "Simple" indicates that the board is not pre-fabricated. If we had a pre-fabricated board, we would instead select "Aligned" so we can align the holes.
##Next we need to add the proper conductive ink, which is the same conductive ink you acquired in step 1.2.
##Load the ink file from the project files. This is the Top Layer Gerber file.
#'''Clamping the Substrate'''
##Acquire a 1.5" by 2" blank board. They are located in the one of the drawers.
##Slide the board underneath the clamps on the Voltera, push the clamps towards each other, and finger-tighten the thumb screws. You should not be able to move the board once you clamp them down. [[File:Voltera clamping.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Mounting the Probe'''
##Pull the probe from one of the drawers. The probe should have a large metal tip, do not confuse it with the dispenser. [[File:Voltera drawer.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Remove the cap and place it near the Voltera.
##Mount the probe onto the magnetic gantry. It should snap into place and the contacts should align. [[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Positioning and Probing'''
##Click "Outline." This will show you where the Voltera thinks the board is. It will move the probe around the printer surface and determine how close the dispenser will need to be to the board.
##Repeat step one until the outline is centered with the board. Click and drag the circuit in the Voltera application to move the outline.
##'''You MUST ensure the outline does not collide with the clamps AND does not exceed the dimensions of the board!''' Do NOT proceed until this is checked!
##In the next step, Click "Probe" and wait for the Voltera to finish its measurements. [[File:Voltera probing.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Remove the probe, replace the cap, place the probe back in the drawer, and proceed. 
#'''Priming the Conductor'''
##Ensure 15 minutes have passed before beginning the next step. This helps the ink flow easier, so the dispenser should not be cold to the touch.
##'''Read carefully.''' The Voltera application explains this step well. Follow the on-screen instructions before moving on to the next step. Some tips/tricks/warnings: - '''Nozzles are fragile!''' You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Treat this process with care! - Hold the dispenser over a paper towel to prevent ink from getting everywhere. - If you need to wipe the nozzle, do so '''gently''' and '''use a cotton swab found in the drawers.''' - Ink should not be flowing quickly out of the dispenser when you finish priming, but '''a very small amount''' of flow is OK. [[File:Voltera priming.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Mount the dispenser. [[File:Voltera mount_conductive.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Calibration'''
##Click "Advanced." Start with the '''Z at 0.10 mm''' and the '''E at 0 um'''. Adjust the Voltera to these values, as it is a safe distance for the dispenser.
##Click "Calibrate." The Voltera will lay down a test print. Pay close attention to the amount and consistency of the ink.[[File:Voltera calibrate.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##The example below has slightly too much ink. Notice how a portion of the horizontal lines touch and some parts of the ink glob up. [[File:Voltera calibrate_bad.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##In this case, to make an adjustment, the ink height was set to a '''Z of 0.09 mm''' and the flow was set to an '''E of -10 um.''' This dispenses less ink than before.
##'''You may need to do the same or make different adjustments. Whatever you do, do NOT run the nozzle into the board! The nozzle will break!'''
##If an adjustment was made, '''wipe the board clean with a paper towel (shown below) and/or clean it with isopropyl alcohol''' and repeat the calibration. [[File:Voltera calibrate_wipe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##The example below is a more acceptable test print. Strive for this consistency. If your board looks right, proceed. [[File:Voltera calibrate_better.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Click "Next," and wipe the board clean a final time, as you are now preparing to print your whole circuit. 
#'''Top Layer Print'''
##'''The Voltera will print what is selected in Green.''' Below is an example of a portion of the board selected. Ensure the portion you want to print is selected (in this case, select everything.) '''Remember that blue lines will not be printed.''' [[File:voltera_selection.PNG|300x300px|none]]
##Click "Start." Let the Voltera finish its process. If a portion of the print fails or is incorrect, you can stop mid-print, or wait until it is finished and redo that selection. Also shown below is an example of a portion of ink that globbed up. The portion was wiped and can be reprinted. [[File:voltera_printing.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_blob.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_redo.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
##Remove the conductive ink, put the cap back on, '''and return the conductive ink to the fridge!'''
##When you reach the instruction titled "Flip Board," you are done. We want to bake these traces on the Reflow Oven before we do anything else to the board.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera, and remember that the traces are still wet, so do not smear them around.
##Consult the Reflow Oven wiki and complete that process. Bake the board soon after printing to ensure best results.
#'''Preparing for Solder Paste'''
##You should now have a PCB with traces baked on it! Time to make those pads for placing components.
##Take a burnishing pad from one of the drawers. Rub the substrate with the pad until the traces have a shine to them, rather than a dull appearance.
##Replace the burnishing pad back into the drawer. This cleans the surface of the traces and makes them look super shiny.
#'''Aligning the Paste'''
##This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to print solder. The user gives it two locations where the pads should go, and the Voltera can use the Gerber files to determine where else pads need to go.
##At this time, retrieve the solder paste from the fridge and set it out to warm. The correct paste is labeled with an '''orange''' sticker.
##Take the board back to the Voltera and clamp the board into place. Again, you should not be able to move the board after it is clamped.
##Open the Voltera application and choose "Solder," and choose the proper paste. In this case you want the '''orange'''-labeled paste.
##Clean the calibration switches, mount the probe, and proceed.
##Click 'Move to feature." This will move the probe to a pre-determined feature and should not be aligned properly on the first go. It is your job to align it correctly.
##First, use the arrow keys to roughly align the feature with the probe. This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to put the pads.
##Next, click "Lower," and use the arrow keys to fine-tune the alignment. Your precision in these steps is key to getting solder paste in the correct places.
##Click "Measure" when the alignment is correct. The board will be probed and the head will move to a second feature.
##Repeat steps 8 and 9.
##Click "Measure." The alignment is now finished.
##You can confirm the alignment by clicking various features and seeing if the head moves to the right position. If something is off, you can go back and realign if necessary. Proceed until you need to measure the height of the board.
##Click "Probe." This will measure the height of the board and determine how far away the dispenser needs to be from the board.
##Once it finishes probing, remove the probe and replace it in the drawer.
#'''Priming the Paste'''
##Refer to the priming directions in step 8 before mounting the dispenser.
##Once it is primed, mount it and proceed.
##Click "Dispense." The paste will dispense onto all of the selected pads.
##Strive for good coverage of paste, preferably covering most of the pad, if not all of it.
##Remove the dispenser. Twist the knob clockwise to back off the paste. '''Put it back in the fridge,''' and quit the Voltera app.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that you are handling a board with wet paste. Clean up!
#'''Cleaning up'''
##Clean any leftover paste or ink from the calibration switches by rubbing them with a dry cue tip before it dries.
##If any ink or paste remains elsewhere on the machine, use a cue tip or kimwipe with a little bit of isopropyl alcohol to clean it. Be careful not to drench the machine in isopropyl, as it could let gunk get into the machine and jam things up. [[File:Voltera cleaning.jpg|border|none|300x300px|Cleaning the calibration switches]]

You are now done with the PCB Printer! Refer to the Pick and Place as well as the Reflow Oven wikis for the remainder of the process.

==Safety==

#When the PCB Printer is moving and doing its thing, just let it be. Interfering will result in breaking equipment and possibly hurting yourself, especially with the drill. Voltera gives excellent advice/steps for their PCB fabrication process, be sure to follow them.
#If you feel like you do not know what you are doing, ask someone for help. You could damage both the equipment and possibly hurt yourself. Do not hesitate to ask or confirm at any point during the process.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1291 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==

#Drilling
##If your holes seem to be all out of wack, be sure to confirm the following: you should be using the vacuum to suck up any debris that comes from drilling your board while it is drilling. The pieces can interfere with your part.
##If they seem to be drilling in the wrong places, then it probably isn't aligned correctly. Go back in the process and start over.
#Calibration/Alignment
##During the probing process, be sure that your board is completely flat and that the clamps cover a minimal amount of the board while keeping it secure. If the probing hits the claps or runs off the board, the calibration is no good. Go back to the initial stages where you align holes/indicate where to print traces.
##When holes are available during the Alignment stage, always use them to align your board. NEVER use pads or traces unless you absolutely have to. Holes are much easier to align with.
#Printing Traces/Solder
##Be sure that the dispenser has been warming up to room temperature for at least 15 minutes so the ink can flow smoothly.
##If the ink does not seem come come out even when you're priming the dispenser, chances are that it is clogged. Remove the tip, notify a PCB Lab worker, and install a new tip (ask a worker if you don't know how).

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
The PCB Printer has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after each use, including ink/solder residue and drilled material
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Refrigerating the Dispensers
|Whenever they are not in use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Replacing Sacrificial Layer
|When the existing layer is worn through and can potential damage the heating bed
|Ace
|
|-
|Replacing Nozzle
|When the nozzle is clogged
|Student or Ace
|
|-
|Replacing ink/solder paste syringe
|Whenever out of ink/solder paste
|Ace
| 01/27/2022 by MM
|-
|Labeling dispenser with lot name
|Whenever ink/solder paste is replaced
|Ace
| 01/27/2022 by MM
|-
|Cleaning calibration switch linear hardware (Disassemble, clean, oil)
|Once yearly, or as required.
|Ace and Technician
| 01/27/2022 by MM
|}

Pick and Place

2022-09-30T17:46:22Z

Justinj:

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__TOC__

==Description==

Pick & Place (Protoplace S) is a semi-automatic pick & place system for the professional assembly of Surface Mount Technology (SMT) printed circuit board prototypes and small batch projects. It is capable of dispensing solder paste, glues, and adhesives, but we typically use it just for placing minuscule components on PCBs.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=maV2KG8O29A}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
# Micro-Table
## This clamps PCBs as large as 297mm x 420mm (11.8” x 16.5”). Knobs at the front of the micro-table allow for fine adjustments along the X and Y axes, which are ideal for the placement of complex components.
# Manipulator
## The manipulator is what picks & places components. It is also capable of dispensing solder paste, glues, and adhesives with the dispenser attachment, however, we will not use these features. The manipulator can reach everywhere on the micro-table that will be needed for projects, including the turntable. The manipulator uses the vacuum and appropriate needle attachment in order to pick & place components.
# Manipulator Knob
## The knob above the box on the manipulator rotates the nozzle; so it rotates components sucked on the knob.
# Turntable
## The turntable is what houses the components used in the project. The turntable can be controlled using the keyboard and LCD display.
# Micro Camera and Monitor
## The micro camera captures the end of the nozzle so that you can view (on the monitor) an accurate representation of where the component will be placed.
[[File:Pick And Place.png|none|thumb|500x500px]]

[[Media:Lpkf protoplace manual (eng).pdf|Pick and Place User Manual]]

[[Media:ProtoPlace_S_Specifications_'16.pdf|Pick and Place Datasheet]]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Pick and Place organizes and helps place minuscule surface mount components by using a vacuum and a nozzle that is triggered by the amount of pressure applied to the nozzle (pushing down on a component).

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the Pick and Place, the Student will have a PCB Prepared by the PCB Printer and follow the instructions in the General Procedure.

====General Procedure====
# Turn on the machine. The switch is located in the back left (if viewed from the front of the machine).
# Ensure that the correct vacuum tip is attached to the manipulator. If the tip is larger than the parts you are trying to pick up, then you need to change out the tip for something smaller. You can change tips for various sized components during the process.
## '''Do not use nozzles too large or the component will get sucked into the machine and the machine will get damaged.'''
# Place all of the parts needed for the project into their own sections on the turntable.
## It would be a good idea to have a separate section for each component for organization purposes (for yourself and others).
## Use a sticky note or labeling system of some sort for different components like resistor values.
## The turntable can be operated by selecting either Auto or Manual from the place menu, and then selecting Turntable. Press the left and right arrows to rotate clockwise and counter-clockwise.
# Turn on the monitor that will display the output of the micro camera. This will help you view your part while you are placing it on the pads.
# Clamp your board onto the microtable. You should not be able to move your board when it is secured.
# On the LCD, using the keyboard:
## Place -> auto/manual.
## Manual mode will only turn on the vacuum when sufficient pressure is applied to the nozzle (when you press the nozzle onto a component).
## Auto mode will always have the vacuum enabled.
# Let's assume we are in manual mode for the remainder of this procedure (easier because you can't accidentally pick up components). Move the manipulator to the desired component. Grab the component by pushing the nozzle down onto the surface of the component.
## '''Be sure that the component is not upside down!'''
# Move the manipulator and component to the position that the footprint is located (it doesn’t have to be exact yet). Using the keyboard and LCD screen, hit the Brake option on the right of the LCD screen. This locks the manipulator so you cannot move it like you normally do which makes it easy to place your components.
# You can use the fine knobs on the front of the pick and place to make precise movements as well as the camera to assure you are placing it correctly on the pads.
## A higher resolution view can be seen on the monitor that’s output from the micro camera.
# Using the keyboard and LCD screen, hit the Place option. It places the component straight down for you!
# Repeat this process until all components are placed.
# Upon completion, refer to the instructions on the Reflow Oven wiki. The solder has not been solidified yet, so be careful with your board so you do not move components. Remember to select the correct setting: V1 Paste if you are using Voltera's special Ink and Paste, and Sn63Pb37 for prefabricated PCBs.
# '''RESET THE SPACE!''' Remove any notes and clean up any lost components.

==Safety==
There is almost nothing you can do on this device that will hurt you. If you place your hand under the nozzle and then smash down the nozzle, you will hurt yourself. Do not do this for obvious reasons.

However, there are things that can hurt the Pick and Place.
# Be gentle with how you treat the nozzle; press down gently when picking and placing components.
# Be sure to use a smaller nozzle than the component you are trying to place! Failure to do this results in sucking up the component into the nozzle which can clog it and prevent the vacuum from being effectively used.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1294 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# There are two monitors above the pick and place machine. You’ll want to have your Altium Schematic on one and the altium PCBDoc opened up so you can follow along as you’re placing and double checking things while you’re going.
# Don’t try to get the component exactly at the location of the pads without the brake. It’s quicker if you get it in the general area and use the fine adjustments knob after placing the brake.
# Pivot the micro camera to view alignments on both the x and y axes (again, the fine adjustment knobs are used here).
# If your tip is having a hard time keeping the component secure, try a bigger one.
# Be sure to use a smaller nozzle than the component you are trying to place! Failure to do this results in sucking up the component into the nozzle which can clog it and prevent the vacuum from being effectively used.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The Pick and Place has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure and how often it should occur.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after use. Clean solder off of nozzle and clean table of loose components.
|Student
|-
|Nozzle Change
|Only when a component has been sucked up into the nozzle.
|Student and Ace
|}

Reflow Oven

2022-09-30T17:45:40Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:reflow_oven_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Reflow Oven Icon
|Has image=File:protoflow.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Protoflow Reflow Oven
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1297
|Has make=LPKF
|Has model=ProtoFlow S N2
|Has serial number=0Z2701N343
|Has group=Circuit Board Design
|Has ace=Nick Scianna;nscianna18@georgefox.edu
}}
[[File:Reflow oven icon.png|left|140x140px|frameless]]
[[File:....theOven.jpg|thumb|400x400px]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Reflow Oven (ProtoFlow S N2) is LPKF's premiere convection oven, ideal for lead-free reflow soldering, meeting the stringent demands of rapid PCB soldering applications. The Reflow Oven features even heat distribution, easy programming, and many pre-defined temperature profiles. The compact design and efficient power consumption make it one of the most useful components in any rapid PCB prototyping environment. {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zsvn2-WkZLk}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
<gallery>
File:bake_ink_selection.jpg|LCD Dispay
File:bake_go.jpg|Tray
</gallery>

[[Media:LPKF ProtoFlow S, User manual, ENG, v2.11.pdf|Reflow Oven User Manual]]

[[Media:protoflow_datasheet.pdf|Reflow Oven Datasheet]]

[https://www.lpkfusa.com/products/pcb_prototyping/smt_assembling/protoflow_s/ Product Home Page]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Reflow Oven bakes PCBs to harden the traces and pads where components are laid. It's just like your oven at home with a few extra accessories, like preset profiles that adjust the temperature and time based on the ink/paste you put on your board.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the oven, the student will have a PCB prepared by the PCB Printer and follow the instructions in the General Procedure.

====General Procedure====
# Power the Reflow Oven on by pressing the power button on the front.
# Select the respective ink/paste on the LCD Display. Different inks and pastes have different heat cycles, so it is important that you choose the right one. You can scroll through the options using the Up and Down keys. The Left key goes back, and the Right key selects. In this specific instance, V1 Ink is selected. Recall that each dispenser is assigned to a color. Green is V1 Ink, Orange is V1 Paste, and Blue is Sn63Pb37.[[File:bake_ink_selection.jpg|300x300px|none|link=https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/File:Bake_ink_selection.jpg]]
# The oven will warm up. When its ready, select "Enter" to open the tray.
# '''DANGER: The rails could be HOT! Take caution.''' Place the board securely on the rails.[[File:bake_place.jpg|300x300px|none|link=https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/File:Bake_place.jpg]]
# Select "Enter" to close the tray.
# The preheat will take 2 minutes. The baking process takes about 30 minutes for traces and 3 minutes for the paste.
# The tray will automatically open to initiate the cool down phase. At the end of this process, the traces and pads will harden. '''DO NOT remove the board until the oven says all the stages are complete. DANGER: The rails are HOT!'''
# When cool down is complete, remove the board from the oven, and turn off the oven.

==Safety==
# '''Never''' place anything in front of the oven door inside of the yellow striped area. This could result in severe damage to the oven.
# Under no circumstances may the lab be left unattended for more than a brief minute while the oven is running.
# Always follow the instructions on the LCD Display. It is your guide that keeps you safe.
# When the tray opens up after baking a board, be patient and let the board cool down. If you handle it while it is too hot, it can burn you and shift your components (not good).
# Once you are finished using the Reflow Oven, clean the inside and turn it off. '''RESET THE SPACE'''.
# If you do not want to risk being burnt by the rails when you place your board in the oven, open the tray and place your board '''BEFORE''' beginning the baking process.
# If you do get burnt, immediately place the burn under cold running cold water for a while. There is a sink to the right of the oven to help you out. This keeps it from blistering.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1297 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
There are little to no issues to run into while using the oven. The most common issue is failure to select the correct profile, which results in non-hardened traces and pads. Remember, Green is V1 Ink, Orange is V1 Paste, and blue is SN63Pb37. If this happens, simply bake the board again using the correct profile. In the event that something happens out of the ordinary, follow the table below.

[[File:...ovenTroubleshooting.png|none|thumb]]

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The oven should always be clean. Make sure it is clean before and after use. If something is not working and needs to be fixed, refer to the table above in the Troubleshooting section.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
Refer to the table in the Troubleshooting section for advanced solutions.
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Remove Debris
|Before and after each use
|Student
|}
__TOC__

 <references />

Rework Station

2022-09-30T17:45:08Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Solder Rework Station.png
|Has icondesc=Rework Station Icon
|Has iconwname=File:image_pending.png
|Has image=File:Rework Station.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The Rework Station
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1297
|Has group=
|Has make=Zephyrtronics
|Has model=ZT-2, ZT-3, ZT-1-CLS-DPU, Hakko FR-301, Quick861DW
|Has ace=Nick Scianna;nscianna18@georgefox.edu
}}
[[File:Rework Station.jpg|thumb]]
[[File:Solder Rework Station.png|left|110x110px|frameless]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Rework Station is essential for fixing what you messed up during the fabrication process. Consisting of an Air Bath, Air Pencil, and Air Pick, the Rework Station allows you heat up a specific area of the PCB and make modifications, whether that means adding/removing some solder on the pads, rotating a component, or completely replacing a component. Other tools are available for similar purposes, such as a desoldering gun, and an additional heat gun for larger components.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_yFDpSTfao}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
<gallery>
File:...airBath.jpg|Air Bath (ZT-1-CLS-DPU)
File:...airPencil.jpg|Air Pencil (ZT-2)
File:...airPick.jpg|Air Pick (ZT-3)
File:...desolderingGun.jpg|Desoldering Gun (Hakko FR-301)
File:...heatGun.jpg|Heat Gun (Quick861DW)
</gallery>

[http://www.zeph.com/smdpreheater.htm Zephyrtronics Airbath]

[http://www.zeph.com/pencil.html Zephyrtronics Airpencil]

[http://www.zeph.com/zt3web.htm Zephyrtronics Airpick]

[[Media:Fr301e20180402.pdf|Hakko FR-301 User Manual]]

[[Media:861DW-english--manual.pdf|Quick-861DW User Manual]]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Airbath can heat up to 205 °C, which can be enough to melt the solder on a PCB. Some solder melts at even higher temperatures than this, which can be achieved using the Air Pencil and/or Heat Gun. Essentially, the Air Bath heats up the board and the Air Pencil finishes the job by heating up the part of the board that we want to fix (because we don't want to melt the solder on the parts that are already good to go). This is where the Air Pick and tweezers come in. After heating up the part we want to fix, the tweezers are used to remove a component while the Air Pick uses a vacuum to place a component on the board. If the component is too small, using tweezers to pick up the component is also a good alternative.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the Air Bath, Air Pencil, Air Pick, Desoldering Gun, and Heat Gun, the student will have a PCB prepared and perform tasks with the station as a whole. Using the Air Bath, Air Pencil, and Air Pick, students will remove a SMD and solder it back on. Using the Desoldering Gun, students will remove a soldered through hole component. Using the Heat Gun, students will mount a larger SMD, solder it on, and then remove it.

====General Procedure====

#Fixing/Replacing SMD Components
##Before turning on the Air Bath, clamp the PCB on the black stand, preferably placing it so that the component you want to fix is directly above the air. You should not be able to move the board once it is clamped. Keeping it sturdy helps from accidentally moving the PCB during the reworking process.
##The Air Bath has a power switch on the left, three buttons on the right, and a screen on the right. The switch has 3 positions which allows you to choose Cool, Off, and Warm by pressing it in their respective directions. The button on the right allow you to adjust the temperature in a rather funny way. The middle button has a down arrow while the right button has an up arrow, indicating which button decreases/increases the temperature of the bath. However, you need to hold down the left button while doing so. For instance, to increase the temperature, you would hold the left and right buttons at the same time.[[File:AirBathBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
##Now you will heat up the Air Bath. Hit the Power switch on the front, and set the temperature about 20-30 °C below the solder's melting point. The melting point for your solder can be found using the table below. Voltera's Solder Paste (Orange) melts at lower temperatures than the Sn63Pb37 Solder Paste (Blue). If the Voltera Solder Paste says T4 at the top, heat the Air Bath to 180 °C. If the Voltera Solder Paste says T5 at the top, heat the Air Bath to 150 °C. If you are using the Sn63Pb37 Solder Paste, heat the Air Bath to 150 °C. [[File:...meltingPointTable.png|none|thumb]]
##Once the board is heated, you can use the Air Pencil to heat up a specific component. The pencil blows hot air out the end. When you turn it on, adjust the settings to be 3/4 of the heat capacity and about 1/3 of the air flow. We do this because when the air flow is maximized at full temperature, it does not get hot enough to melt the solder. Too much air flow is bad.
##Hold the tip of the pencil over the SMD you want to solder/desolder, and move it slightly around the leads to allow for more distribution of heat. If it is not heating it up, try turning the heat of the pencil higher. This should allow for your SMD components solder to melt, and you will be able to pick up the component up with a pair of static-safe tweezers or the Air Pick. If you are soldering a part on, make sure to generously apply flux to the pads, and make sure all the solder sticks to the pads after heating.
##If the pencil is not doing a good enough job to heat up the component, then you may graduate to using the bigger heat gun, the Quick861DW. The same theoretical concepts apply, however, one potential downside of this is that it affects a larger area than the pencil. You may unintentionally melt the solder of components that you don't want to melt, so be extra careful my dudes.
##The Air Pick uses a vacuum to pick up and place components. Typically you would use both hands for this; one hand heats up the component with the pencil and the other grabs the component with the pick.
##On the handle of the pick there is a divot that is connected to the vacuum. When you plug the divot with your finger, it will enable it to pick up a component. When you release your finger from the divot, it will let go of the component. There are different tips that you will place on the end of the tip based on the component you want to pick up, each having a different size for varying components.
#Desoldering Through Hole Components
##For desoldering through hole components, you will want to use the Desoldering Gun. It has a hot tip that can fit over a solder joint and utilizes a vacuum when the trigger is pulled. As a result, it melts the solder and sucks it into a cartridge, completely removing the joint.
##Before using the Desoldering Gun, make sure you have the little metal stand for the gun to sit on for safety purposes. Have Solder ready nearby to tin the tip before use, and clean the tip after tinning using the wire mesh.
##On the handle of the gun there is a temperature control wheel that ranges from 1-4 (coolest to hottest). Be sure to set it to the correct temperature using the graphic below. Typically, a through hole component would require you to set the scale to 2.[[File:...SolderingGun.png|none|thumb]]
##To use the Desoldering Gun, briefly put the top over a solder joint (not completely on the PCB or you might damage it), press the trigger to enable the vacuum, and the solder should be sucked away!
##Tin the tip before cooldown, and take note that the cooldown may take a bit of time. Don't burn yourself!

==Safety==
The most important thing about all these machines: THEY GET REALLY HOT!

Be so so careful because these machines can get up to temperatures of potentially 700°F. Always be wary of where you are blowing the hot air with the air guns, so you don’t melt other things. Be wary of how hot your PCB can get, and always put the cooling setting on after you’re finished with the Air Bath before picking your PCB up, because you can burn yourself.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1300 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==

#Suppose the solder isn't melting. Consult the temperature table in the General Procedure, chances are that you just need to make it hotter, little by little.
#Suppose the Air Pick is not picking up the component. Use the appropriate tip and make sure you are plugging the little divot to enable it to pick up. If these aren't working, resort to using tweezers.
#Suppose the components are getting blown away from the pads you want it to sit on. Well, turn down the air my dude.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Wrap all cords and make them look tidy. Make sure all devices are turned off and returned to their original place. Do not leave tweezers or extra parts laying around, put them back in the accessories drawer.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after every use
|Student
|-
|Tinning tip of Desoldering Gun
|Before and after every use
|Student
|-
|Emptying solder out of desoldering gun reservoir
|As needed
|Student/Ace
|-
|Replacing desoldering gun filter
|As needed
|Ace
|}

Through Hole Press

2022-09-30T17:44:35Z

Justinj:

[[File:...PressyBoi.png|thumb]]

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File: Through_hole_pressIcon.png
|Has icondesc=Through Hole Press Icon
|Has iconwname=File:image_pending.png
|Has image=File:through_hole_press_image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The Favorit Through Hole Press
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1293
|Has group=
|Has make=Bungard
|Has model=PL-FAVORIT
|Has serial number=2018-2231
|Has ace=Nick Scianna;nscianna18@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Through Hole Press is a hand-operated through hole plating machine using rivets. A rivet is a component used to easily connect traces that are transitioning between the top and bottom layers of a PCB. As a whole, it is known as a via. Specifically, it is a small hollow copper tube that can be inserted on one side of the board, then - using a specialized rivet tool like the Through Hole Press - the rivets are pressed and deformed to connect both sides. There are other methods that carry out the same function, but using rivets is the fastest and most consistent method. {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ywfjknf6Vtg}}{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nz1TcfEnw-o}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
<gallery>
File:Pcb-trace-geometry-2.png|Trace
File:...via.png|Via
File:...rivet.png|Rivet
File:...rubberMallet.png|Rubber Mallet
</gallery>

[[Media:Favorit manual e.pdf|Through Hole Press User Manual]]

[[Media:Through hole press instructions and size chart.pdf|Instructions and Size Chart]]

[https://www.bungard.de/index.php/en/products/through-hole-plating-line/through-hole-plating Product Home Page]

==Training==
====Operation====

Rivets are used to connect traces on the top and bottom layers of a PCB. Traces are paths of conductive ink that connect components. Rivets can be pressed using either the Through Hole Press or a rubber mallet. Each method has its perks, so students will learn both methods.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the press, the student will press 2 rivets by using a rubber mallet and 2 rivets using the press. A test PCB with many holes of different sizes will be provided and reused among students.

====General Procedure====

#Hole Sizing
##Before pressing a rivet, you need to make sure you design the holes so that they fit well. For a rivet to fit nicely in a hole, the hole diameter needs to be 0.1 mm (3.9 mils) larger than the rivet outer diameter. Use the table below to see what types of rivets Voltera offers. Also, refer to the chart below to assure you have the right size rivet for the hole you are pressing it into.[[File:Through_hole_press_chart_snippet.PNG|none|thumb|500x500px]][[File:...rivetTable.png|none|thumb]]'''NOTE: Currently the tool for 0.4mm rivets is broken, so this size should not be used in designs. Use 0.6mm rivets instead.'''
##Additionally, these rivets are hollow, so these can also be used to secure headers on your PCB. When placing vias in your design program, ensure the right drill size is used so the PCB Printer leaves enough space when printing the ink.
#Using Through Hole Press
##Follow the instructions in the following video for setting up the correct tool set for your rivet.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWoPXiklzl0}}
##You will need to place all the rivets into the board. Some like to use their fingers, some like to use tweezers, it is up to you. Pinching the rivets on the side is the easiest way to go, as shown in the picture below.[[File:...rivetPlacing.png|none|thumb]]
##The through hole press pretty much just flattens down the other side on the rivet. Once all rivets have been placed, you will need to turn it upside down while keeping the rivets snug inside the hole in order to flatten the other side. Find a flat unused PCB, place it over the rivets, and turn it upside down to keep them from falling out. Using some tape to keep the plate stable on the board is something to try if things are not quite going your way.[[File:...rivetFlip.png|none|thumb]]
##Before pressing the rivets, you need to make sure you have the right tool inserted into the upper and lower parts of the press. These tools can be found in the drawer in front of the press. The tool you choose should have the same inside diameter of the rivet you want to press.
##Now it is time to press the rivets. Place the board over the pin of the lower tool and fit a rivet over the pin as far as possible. To flatten the other side of the rivet, press the lever until it reaches the stop pin, then release. [[File:...rivetPress.png|none|thumb]]
##Your rivet should change somewhat like this. Pressing the rivet too hard can cause it to crack and damage the traces on the board, yet pressing the rivet too softly will to a poor job because it will not make a firm connection with the traces. It should be hit just hard enough to deform the rivet to make a firm connection with the traces. With practice, you'll learn the right amount of pressure to apply. [[File:...rivetBeforeAfter.png|none|thumb]]
#Using the Rubber Mallet
##Rivets can also be pressed using a rubber mallet! The setup for the through hole press apply here as well. This method is faster than the Through Hole Press, but it is not as consistent.
##You will need to place all the rivets into the board. Some like to use their fingers, some like to use tweezers, it is up to you. Pinching the rivets on the side is the easiest way to go, as shown in the picture below.[[File:...rivetPlacing.png|none|thumb]]
##The through hole press pretty much just flattens down the other side on the rivet. Once all rivets have been placed, you will need to turn it upside down while keeping the rivets snug inside the hole in order to flatten the other side. Find a flat unused PCB, place it over the rivets, and turn it upside down to keep them from falling out. Using some tape to keep the unused PCB stable on the board is something to try if things are not quite going your way. [[File:...rivetFlip.png|none|thumb]]
##Using the rubber mallet and the rivet tool, you can press the rivet as shown in the picture below. Place the tip of the tool inside the rivet in an upright position, then hit the top of the tool with the mallet. The rivet tool can be found in the drawers in front of the PCB Printers.[[File:...rubberMalletPress.png|none|thumb]]
##Your rivet should change somewhat like this. Pressing the rivet too hard can cause it to crack and damage the traces on the board, yet pressing the rivet too softly will to a poor job because it will not make a firm connection with the traces. It should be hit just hard enough to deform the rivet to make a firm connection with the traces. With practice, you'll learn the right amount of pressure to apply. Come stop by![[File:...rivetBeforeAfter.png|none|thumb]]

==Safety==
There is not much that can hurt you while using the machine or the rubber mallet. Do not put any part of yourself under the through hole press, because it will try to punch a hole in you. The same idea goes with the mallet and the '''rivet''' tool. Do not swing it or do any dumb stuff. This should not have to be said, but people are dumb sometimes. Please do not be that person.

As for the through hole press and its tools, there any many things that could damage it. Especially tools for small rivet diameter (0.4 and 0.6 mm) are sensitive and require careful handling. The tip of the upper tool and springloaded pin of the bottom tool '''should be guarded against damage.''' Avoid any excessive pressure on both parts! For transport reasons the tip of the lower tool may be hidden inside of the tool body. If so, carefully turn in the headless screw, until the tip shows up again, but still can be pushed into the body again.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1293 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
If a rivet is not connecting the top and bottom layer traces, it is probably not pressed well, meaning it is not making good contact with the trace on both layers. A well placed rivet gives a good connection that is resistant to bending and twisting. In order to obtain a good long-term stability, we recommend that you apply our SUR-TIN immersion tin. This will help to prevent corrosion at the transition layer of the rivet and the copper clad (and will increase solderability). If you place component leads in the rivet holes and solder them from one side only, you should avoid thermal stress to the rivet. Certainly if solder passes the rivet it can cause the rivet to grow under the heat so that the rivet becomes loose. In such case, you should solder fix both rivet collars to the pads before inserting component leads.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

There is little to no maintenance to be done on this machine. Just be sure to reset the space, put away any rivets, tools, and PCBs that you have used.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and After each use, put away any rivets, tools, and PCBs that you have used
|Student
|}

__TOC__

Sublimation Printer

2022-09-29T19:11:49Z

Justinj:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=The Hub
|Is used in domain=Cloth
|Has name=Sublimation Printer
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|Has icon=File:Dye Sub printer notype (1).png
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|Has iconwname=File:table_saw_icon_name.png
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==Description==

Sublimation is a digital printing process that uses heat and pressure to embed ink into a fabric or surface to produce an image. It utilizes a special dye and a molecular bonding process to apply and permanently adhere HD images, graphics and photos to polymers and polyesters at a sub-surface level.

Other printing processes utilize chemicals called binders to bond their inks to the surface of a product. Binders are present in the ink and/or paper (for transfer processes.) Over time, the binders will break down and the ink will crack, peel and fade. In contrast, because sublimation bonds at a sub-surface level rather than on top, it provides a high-quality image that won’t crack or peel. And in the case of apparel, it will not fade when washed.

With sublimation, images can be applied to thousands of different products including mugs, signage, bags and apparel, and to many different materials including ceramics, wood, metal, polyester and glass.

For fabrics, sublimation dye only adheres to polyester. Cotton/polyester blends are ok to use so long as the polyester content is at least 50%. Keep in mind that the sublimation dye will not bond with the cotton, so the resultant image will have a slightly more faded or "vintage" look when using cotton/polyester blends.

==Documentation==
The user manual link below is technically for the SG500 and SG1000, but similar principles will apply.

[[Media:Sawgrass-User-Guide-English.pdf|Sublimation Printer User Manual]]

[https://www.sawgrassink.com/Sawgrass/media/Documents/Printers/Brochures/SG400-SG800-Brochure-NP-US.pdf SG400 Brochure]

====Terminology====

* '''Transfer Paper -''' Paper that absorbs the ink from the printer and is used to transfer the ink to the garment.

==Training==
====Operation====

The Sawgrass SG400 acts much like a typical ink printer. You will need to load the proper software and select the SG400 printer. The correct paper will also need to be loaded into the printer paper tray. One side of the paper is meant for printing while the other side is not meant for printing; double-check the paper orientation to avoid printing on the wrong side.

====Demonstration====

Demonstrate you can setup the software and printer. You will need to produce a transfer using the Sawgrass SG400.

====General Procedure====

'''Producing a transfer'''

# Open the software you wish to print from (Adobe or Inkscape software).
# Create or open your desired design.
# Power on the SG400 printer and give it some time to power up. The printer can take several minutes to warm up.
# You need to open either Adobe Illustrator or Inkscape software depending on your preference.
# Open the image you wish to print.
# Make sure the image is a mirrored (left/right) if you want to read the text on a surface or keep the image direction correct.
# Make sure the image size is smaller than the size of paper you are printing on. The largest size paper is 8.5" x 11."
# You will need to select print and make sure you are printing to the Sawgrass 400 printer.
# The printer should start printing and produce a sheet of paper with your image on it.
# You will need to setup the [[Heat Press|heat press]] to complete your image transfer.

==Safety==
This is a fairly safe process. When using the heat press avoid making contact with the hot plate to prevent burns.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1317 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==

Sawgrass printers are unique in the fact that they have an auto-maintenance program that ensures the printer is always ready to print without any quality issues. If you turn off the printer, the auto-maintenance program will not be able to operate, which could lead to printing issues.

Banding is usually caused by a blockage in the print head preventing the ink from being properly dispersed to the paper. Perform a nozzle check to see if this is the case. If so, then you should perform a head cleaning to try to correct the problem. These functions can be accessed via the control panel on the printer or through Sawgrass Print Manager. Low ink levels can also cause banding. Always ensure that you are not low on ink. Learn more in our Knowledge Base, or contact Sawgrass Technical Support.

Color management is an important aspect for all forms of digital printing. In terms of sublimation, there are several factors that can affect the color including the printer, the ink, the paper and the substrates. Sawgrass created Sawgrass Print Manager to address these issues and provide tools to help ensure the accuracy of the color output. If you are having issues, contact Sawgrass Technical Support for assistance.

It is possible to sublimate a print more than once, but every instance after the first time will be significantly faded. It is recommended that you only sublimate a print once.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Keep the printer plugged in and clean. Do not unplug the printer as this could damage the printer by preventing the head cleaning process.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Replace Ink Cartridge
|As needed
|Technician
|}-