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	<updated>2026-04-14T19:23:05Z</updated>
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		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Waterjet_Cutter&amp;diff=9076</id>
		<title>Waterjet Cutter</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Waterjet_Cutter&amp;diff=9076"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T17:50:11Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
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 |Has model=ProtoMAX&lt;br /&gt;
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 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1303&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has function=&lt;br /&gt;
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 |Has icondesc=Waterjet Cutter Icon&lt;br /&gt;
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 |Has imagedesc=The ProtoMax Waterjet Cutter&lt;br /&gt;
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__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The waterjet Cutter is a machine that uses highly pressurized water with a flow of an abrasive material to perform computer controlled cuts on a wide variety of materials, including 1&amp;quot; steel. This is helpful for creating parts with intricate designs for car engines, mounting brackets, and decorative plates. Another benefit of the waterjet is that there is minimal temperature change during the process which makes it perfect for cutting temperature sensitive materials. Check out the video below to see the waterjet in action.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UE4Fz8v0Lms&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
* Tool path - The path that the waterjet will follow when cutting out a part. This includes more than just the outline of the part because the waterjet must pierce through the material before performing a cut.&lt;br /&gt;
* ProtoMAX LAYOUT- This is the software used to set up a tool path for the water jet and can be found on the laptop that is used with the waterjet.&lt;br /&gt;
* MAKE - This is the software that directly communicates with the waterjet to perform a cut from a tool path. It can also be found on the waterjet's laptop. &lt;br /&gt;
* Holding posts - The adjustable aluminum rods that are used as mounts for the holding arms. &lt;br /&gt;
* Holding arms - These come in several sizes and are used to clamp the material in place while performing a cut. &lt;br /&gt;
* Abrasive - This is a sand like substance, in this case garnet, which is mixed with the water to improve cutting.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Mixing tube - The tip of the nozzle assemble which mixes the water and abrasive together.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== User Manuals ====&lt;br /&gt;
[https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/accessories-home.htm?tocpath=MANUALS%7CACCESSORY%20%20GUIDES%7C_____0 Complete list of ProtoMAX manuals] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The waterjet cutter is an amazing tool that can be used on a wide variety of materials including 1&amp;quot; steel!  However, it is limited to a 12&amp;quot; by 12&amp;quot; cut area with a 1&amp;quot; thickness being its maximum. Make sure the waterjet cutter is capable of handling your part and your material before going through all of the setup procedures. Like cutting many other two dimensional cutting tools, the cutting process should begin with a DXF file created from Solidworks or a similar software. Once a DXF fie has been created it can then be used to create a tool path using ProtoMAX LAYOUT. The detailed steps to do do this can be found in the general procedure but the most important step is to ensure that the waterjet pierces the material outside of the part outline. After the tool path is created and the machine has been properly set up, the job can be posted to the MAKE software, which is installed on the waterjet's laptop computer, to perform the cut.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To show a complete knowledge of the waterjet, the student will design a part in ProtoMAX LAYOUT, create a tool path for the part, and then cut it out. As part of the process the student will also perform the correct set up and shut down procedures. The part for this demonstration can be found in the procedure. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
'''Part Design in ProtoMAX LAYOUT:'''&lt;br /&gt;
# Open ProtoMAX LAYOUT. Your screen should look something like this. [[File:ProtoMAX_LAYOUT.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the &amp;quot;Line&amp;quot; tool from the &amp;quot;Draw&amp;quot; menu on the left of the screen and create a 2&amp;quot; square with a 1&amp;quot; square notch in the top right corner. To do this, click anywhere on the screen to start the first line. This will bring a popup &amp;quot;Specify Dimensions&amp;quot; box where you will enter 2 into the &amp;quot;Rise (dy)&amp;quot; box. This will create a 2&amp;quot; vertical line. Select the &amp;quot;Line&amp;quot; tool again at the top of the first line and enter 1 into the &amp;quot;Run (dx)&amp;quot; box. This will create a 1&amp;quot; horizontal line to the right. Repeat this process until the box looks like this. The last line at the bottom can by created by selecting both open edges with the &amp;quot;Line&amp;quot; tool. [[File:Basic_shape_of_box.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the &amp;quot;Circle&amp;quot; tool and choose the intersect option from the bottom of the screen. Click the top, left corner of the square and enter 0.5 for the diameter of the circle.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the circle using the &amp;quot;Select&amp;quot; tool from the &amp;quot;Edit&amp;quot; menu on the left of the screen (make sure to select the top and bottom of the circle). Next, select the &amp;quot;Move&amp;quot; tool from the left side of the screen and choose the &amp;quot;Intersect&amp;quot; option from the bottom of the screen.&lt;br /&gt;
# Click on the center of the circle where the corner of the square is and enter 0.5 and -0.5 for the &amp;quot;Run&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Rise&amp;quot; of the movement. Your screen should look something like this. [[File:Box_with_circle.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]&lt;br /&gt;
'''Tool Paths''':&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Most of the time, you will not be using ProtoMAX LAYOUT to design a part. Thankfully, this program can accept &amp;quot;.dxf&amp;quot; files, but you still have to create the tool paths. If using a &amp;quot;.dxf&amp;quot; file, import the file to skip the last section and start here to give it a tool path.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before showing you how to create a tool path, there are a couple of things that you must keep in mind.  When the waterjet cuts it has a kerf which means it will take away some of the material it is cutting and you do not want it to be taking material away from your part. Instead, you want to remove material from the scrap that is not critical to the part's function and as a result the tool path must be created with this in mind. To do this, you must first keep in mind that the waterjet will always cut on the left side of the tool path lines. This changes based on the direction the nozzle is traveling; for example if the nozzle travels clockwise around a circle it will remove excess material outside of the circle and if it travels counterclockwise it will remove excess material from the inside of the circle. Because of this, you must control the direction that the nozzle will travel. For an outside cut, you want it to cut on the outside of the line to preserve the proper dimensions of the part. For and inside cut, you want the opposite of that. For a ring, you would want the nozzle to travel clockwise for the outside cut and counter-clockwise for the inside cut.  To control the direction of the nozzle, place lead-in and lead-out lines to specify the start or end of a cut and the cut direction. It is better to cut the inner bits first and then the outer bits last; and don't let the nozzle travel over any holes that are already cut.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Zoom in closer to the circle. Select the &amp;quot;Lead i/o&amp;quot; tool from the &amp;quot;Draw&amp;quot; menu on the left of the screen. Select the bottom edge of the circle and move the cursor upwards and click to create a lead in and out from the center of the circle. This will tell the waterjet to cut on the inside of the circle. Looking at this picture, you can see that one line is longer than the other. This longer line is the lead-in line. The nozzle will penetrate the material from the beginning of the long line and work its way down to the bottom of the circle. Once the nozzle hits the bottom, it will start counter-clockwise because the lead-in line is positioned at a slight angle to make counter-clockwise and easier direction than clockwise. This is how you tell the nozzle which direction to cut.[[File:Lead_i-o.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]&lt;br /&gt;
# Next, place a &amp;quot;Lead i/o&amp;quot; near the bottom of the left wall on the square moving your cursor to the left and clicking to tell the machine to cut on the outside of the box.[[File:Lead_io2.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the &amp;quot;Line&amp;quot; tool and connect the long, lead-in line of the box to the short, lead-out line of the circle. This is a traverse line telling the machine to move from the circle to the box after it has finished cutting the circle. &lt;br /&gt;
# Use the line tool and click on the long, lead-in line for the circle.  Place the other end of the line so that it is at least 1/8&amp;quot; past both the left and bottom edge of the part. This will be the origin for the part and the cut. It should look something like this:[[File:Design_with_traverse_lines.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]&lt;br /&gt;
# Now you get to decide the quality of each cut. Select the button at the bottom of your screen labeled &amp;quot;Quality&amp;quot;. You should see a range from 1 to 5, a Traverse, and Lead i/o. The range of 1 to 5 will change the machines cutting speed. The higher quality is 5 (slower) and the lowest quality is 1 (faster). Choose a quality of 5 for the circle by clicking &amp;quot;5&amp;quot; and then selecting every part of the circle. Do the same for the outer edge but with a quality of 1. Your part should look like this. Leave the traverse lines as green. This indicates where you don't want the machine to cut. [[File:Quality_lines.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]&lt;br /&gt;
# Sometimes there are extra points or lines that are unnecessary. To remove these points, click &amp;quot;Clean&amp;quot;, click &amp;quot;start&amp;quot; on the popup window, and &amp;quot;okay&amp;quot; on the second popup window. Doing this will insure a tidier cut.&lt;br /&gt;
# The last step is saving the file to be cut. Click &amp;quot;Post&amp;quot; on the right of your screen. If you have not saved yet, this will ask you to save your drawing; do so. It will then bring you to a window asking you to &amp;quot;Pick Start&amp;quot;. Select end of the traverse line that you defined as the origin.&lt;br /&gt;
# A window will popup showing the tool path. Zoom in closer to your part and inspect where the tool path is. The program will display cuts as a thick red line. Make sure that these projected cut lines are on the proper side of the line that you specified. If all looks well, hit &amp;quot;save&amp;quot; on the bottom, left of your screen.&lt;br /&gt;
'''Waterjet Operation :'''&lt;br /&gt;
# Open the water valve located on the wall behind the waterjet. It will be open when the handle is parallel to the water pipe. Be sure to only turn in on BEFORE powering the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
# Check the pressure gauge to verify that the water pressure is 40 psi or greater.&lt;br /&gt;
# Fill the tank to the top of the metal ribs with the water hose on the right side of the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
# Check the garnet hopper. If it is low, fill it up.&lt;br /&gt;
# Power on the computer and plug in the USB.&lt;br /&gt;
# Power on the waterjet cutter.&lt;br /&gt;
# Open MAKE.&lt;br /&gt;
# Zero the waterjet cutter head using MAKE.&lt;br /&gt;
# Push the clear plastic hose into the hole located on the side of the nozzle. This hose is called the abrasive feed tube and is used to mix abrasive into the water.&lt;br /&gt;
# Position the nozzle between two of the metal ribs, close the lid, and test the nozzle using MAKE. When closing the lid, the support bar on the right side of the lid must be lifted otherwise it will not close. There are two things that should be checked when performing the nozzle test. First, check that the water is flowing through the nozzle. This is necessary because the nozzle can get clogged. Second, check that there is abrasive flowing through plastic tube. It flows quickly but can be identified by a sparkling in the tube as it flows.&lt;br /&gt;
#Open the lid, position the material in the machine, and clamp it down. To clamp down the material, first slip the clamping post into the slot on the crossbar and the twist clockwise to tighten it into place. Then slide the material clamp over the post and push down to tighten. Repeat this process with any other clamps that are needed to secure the material. The clamping system can be seen below.[[File:Waterjet_clamps.jpg|none|thumb|479x479px]]&lt;br /&gt;
# Load the cut file into MAKE, select the material being cut, and enter its thickness.&lt;br /&gt;
# Set the origin point for the machine in MAKE.&lt;br /&gt;
# Position the nozzle over the material and adjust the height of the nozzle very carefully making sure the adjustment tool has enough room to wiggle up and down. Do this by loosening the knob on the side of the nozzle with one hand while holding the nozzle with the other. Be very careful not to drop the nozzle onto the material as it could be broken. Slide the adjustment tool, pictured below, under the nozzle and then carefully lower the nozzle onto it. Tighten the knob once the nozzle is positioned correctly.&lt;br /&gt;
# Continue to fill the tank with more water so that there is about 1/8&amp;quot; of water above the surface of the material.&lt;br /&gt;
# Execute a dry run using MAKE while ensuring that the nozzle will not collide with anything.&lt;br /&gt;
# Flip the orange rubber cone down, run the cut. While the cut is running look for material excess floating up; pieces of cut material floating up and getting wedged between the nozzle and other material or clamps could cause a catastrophic failure. If you see any of these things, pause the cut and remove any obstructions before resuming.&lt;br /&gt;
'''Waterjet Shutdown:'''&lt;br /&gt;
# Remove the material and clamps from the work area. &lt;br /&gt;
# Remove the abrasive feed tube from the nozzle.&lt;br /&gt;
# Position the nozzle between two of the metal ribs and run a nozzle test to clear any remaining abrasive from the nozzle and prevent future clogging. Also known as purging the nozzle of garnet. &lt;br /&gt;
# Bring the nozzle back to its home position. &lt;br /&gt;
# Close MAKE.&lt;br /&gt;
# Shut down the laptop.&lt;br /&gt;
# Turn off the waterjet. &lt;br /&gt;
# Push down on the drain tube to begin letting water out of the tank. Do not pull on the drain tube because it can pop off. &lt;br /&gt;
# Drain the tank till it is half full or less. While the water is draining, use the hose to wash off any abrasive in the work area or stuck to the side of the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
# Close the lid. &lt;br /&gt;
# Close the water valve so that the handle is perpendicular to the pipe. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Safety ==&lt;br /&gt;
The waterjet can be a very dangerous machine if not used properly so here are some important safety items to keep in mind. First, Jesus forgives, but 30,000 psi doesn't. So pay attention to these precautions and be safe while operating this machine.&lt;br /&gt;
# NEVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER turn on the machine without first turning on the water!  You could destroy the machine...and your reputation.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you see water squirting out the side of the machine while running a cut, don't touch it!  It is the fountain of &amp;quot;Bye Bye Fingers.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
# Wear rubber gloves while dealing with the water in the tank.  The water in there is a nasty pool of bacteria and chemicals just waiting to crawl into your open wounds.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you have true &amp;quot;talent&amp;quot; and manage to run the water jet while your hand is underneath it, you have the opportunity of going to the ER and taking with you a medical card that tells the doctors how to treat you so you don't die.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1303 Canvas Course]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
There are a few common issues you may run into when using the waterjet. First, there may be an issue reaching the proper water level for your material. This is caused by the drain tube on the right side of the tank being at the incorrect height and can be fixed by pushing the drain tube up or down to remove water or allow more to enter. Make sure to wear gloves when doing this to protect from bacteria and never pull on the tube because it can be pulled off. If the tube does pull off don't panic; wait for the water to drain low enough to push the tube back on and then do so. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another issue is that the abrasive may not be flowing through its tube when performing the nozzle test. If this is happening do not perform a cut until the abrasive if flowing properly. The first thing you should check is the abrasive tube. Make sure that it is completely pushed into the nozzle so that it can be pulled out of the hopper by the vacuum within the nozzle. If this does not fix the issue then there is most likely water in the hose and maybe even in the hopper which causes the abrasive to stick to the feed tube tube instead of flowing through properly. Remove the hopper splash guard, pull the feed tube out of the feed block, and then use an air hose to blow through the feed to clean out any moisture. These components can be seen in the image below. Sometimes the water will travel into the hopper itself and cause the abrasive to clump together. When this happens either wait a day for everything to dry out or carefully disassemble the hopper system and dry it out with the help of an ACE and the [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401434/nozzle-clog.htm?tocpath=MANUALS%7COPERATION%20GUIDE%7C_____11 user manual]. &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Waterjet_Abrasive.jpg|none|thumb|799x799px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Water in the abrasive feed tube is most often caused by the nozzle being clogged. Unclogging the nozzle is a fairly intensive and delicate process and should be done with the help of an ACE.  Always reference the manufacturer's [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401434/nozzle-clog.htm?tocpath=MANUALS%7COPERATION%20GUIDE%7C_____11 nozzle clog procedure] for the complete process (video included). Before unclogging the nozzle, remove the yellow rubber cone and raise the nozzle as high as it can go while being careful not to let it drop onto the material. [[File:Waterjet_Nozzle.jpg|none|thumb|496x496px]]&lt;br /&gt;
#Once this is done, use the included torque wrench to loosen the set screw holding the mixing tube (1) in place. Make sure to hold onto the tube when doing this so it does not drop out.&lt;br /&gt;
# Remove the tube and reinsert it upside down so that the pointed end is facing upward.&lt;br /&gt;
# Very carefully tighten the set screw to 15 in-lb using the torque wrench. The torque wrench will click when 15 in-lb is reached but it is very faint so tighten slowly or the entire tube will be crushed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Run a nozzle test using MAKE and make sure water is flowing through the tube. &lt;br /&gt;
# Using the torque wrench, carefully remove the mixing tube and reinsert it in its proper position with the pointed end facing down. &lt;br /&gt;
# Replace the yellow rubber cone and then run a nozzle test to check that the clog is gone. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The waterjet has several items that need to be maintained by the student or the ACE. Please refer to the table below to see each procedure and how often it should occur. The details of each procedure can be found below as well. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
!Last Completion&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1&lt;br /&gt;
|General washing&lt;br /&gt;
|After each use &lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2&lt;br /&gt;
|Change pump oil&lt;br /&gt;
|After first 50 hrs of use and every subsequent 500 hrs of use &lt;br /&gt;
|Ace or Justin&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3&lt;br /&gt;
|Change water filter &lt;br /&gt;
|When the filter gauge approaches 25 psi or lower while the pump is running&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace or Justin &lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4&lt;br /&gt;
|Remove material from tank bottom&lt;br /&gt;
|Whenever garnet abrasive reaches the bottom of the garnet collection bins or when excessive water turbulence is noticed during cutting&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace or Justin &lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5&lt;br /&gt;
|Replace table slats &lt;br /&gt;
|Rotate monthly or more frequently if needed; replace when excessively scored and no longer stable&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace or Justin &lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|6&lt;br /&gt;
|Lubricate x-y axis &lt;br /&gt;
|After 500 cutting hours or if squeaking&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace or Justin &lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|Replace nozzle filter &lt;br /&gt;
|After approximately 80 cutting hours or more frequently if needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace or Justin &lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|8&lt;br /&gt;
|Rotate mixing tube&lt;br /&gt;
|Rotate 90 degrees (one quarter turn) every 8 hours of cutting to even out wear&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace or Justin &lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
# General washing - This consists of washing off any abrasive from the inside of the machine into the bottom of the tank using the water hose, including the lid. &lt;br /&gt;
# For details on changing the pump oil click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/change-pump-oil.htm?tocpath=MANUALS%7CMAINTENANCE%20GUIDE%7CPump%20Maintenance%7C_____2 here].&lt;br /&gt;
# For details on changing the water filter click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/change-water-filter.htm here].&lt;br /&gt;
# For details on cleaning the tank click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/clean-catcher-tank.htm here].&lt;br /&gt;
# For details on changing the table slats click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/change-water-filter.htm here].&lt;br /&gt;
# For details on lubricating the y axis click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/lube-y-lead-screw.htm here] or [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/lube-x-lead-screw.htm here] for the x axis.&lt;br /&gt;
# For details on changing the nozzle filter click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/replace-nozzle-filter.htm here].&lt;br /&gt;
# To rotate the mixing tube, first loosen the set screw with the torque wrench while holding the tube in the other hand. Twist the tube a quarter turn and make sure it is pressed all the way up so that it is seated properly. Tighten the set screw with the torque wrench set to 15 in-lb while looking out for the faint click which signifies the proper tightness. Make sure to set the torque wrench to 0 when finished.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Vertical_Bandsaw&amp;diff=9074</id>
		<title>Vertical Bandsaw</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Vertical_Bandsaw&amp;diff=9074"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T17:49:29Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=DoALL&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=ML&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=5318110&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Metal&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1185&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has function=Vertical Bandsaw&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=[[File:vertical_bandsaw_icon.png]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Vertical Bandsaw icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:vertical_bandsaw_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:doall_vertical_bandsaw_image.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Doall Model ML Vertical Bandsaw&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=Used various pieces in straight, curved, or unusual shapes&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has QR code=File:Vertical  Bandsaw QR code.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}} &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A Vertical Bandsaw is just like any other type of bandsaw in that it is a power tool used to cut various metal and wood pieces. The saw consists of a solid band of metal with edged teeth on it for ease of cutting. Those looking for uniform cutting results will make use of this type of saw.  While their main function is to cut curved or unusual shapes, they can also be used for straight cutting. These types of saws, specifically designed for metal cutting, are available in vertical and horizontal varieties.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4htjvBCcEI&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gas9zMSpWZo}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
Blade Kerf - The material lost due to the width of the blade&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Blade Guide - Guide the blade to keep it cutting straight. Should be adjusted to ¼ in above material being cut. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Adjustment Knob - adjusts the height of the blade guide. Located at the back of the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Adjustment Lock - locks the blade guide in place. Located at the back of the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fence - Guides the stock through the blade. Attached to the side of the table. &lt;br /&gt;
* [https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/w/images/9/96/Doall_ML_Parts_Manual.pdf Parts Manual]&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.doallsaws.com/ Product Page]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A Vertical Bandsaw is just like any other type of bandsaw in that it is a power tool used to cut various metal and wood pieces. The saw consists of a solid band of metal with edged teeth on it for ease of cutting. Those looking for uniform cutting results will make use of this type of saw.  While their main function is to cut curved or unusual shapes, they can also be used for straight cutting. These types of saws, specifically designed for metal cutting, are available in vertical and horizontal varieties.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To show a complete knowledge of the Vertical Bandsaw, the student will cut a piece of acrylic stock.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
# The general procedure and additional knowledge can be found in the video above! The summary for operation is detailed below, but most of the stuff on the quiz will be in the video.&lt;br /&gt;
# Unlock the Blade Guide by turning the knob labeled &amp;quot;Lock&amp;quot; on the back of the machine. This allows you to alter the height of the blade.&lt;br /&gt;
# Set the Blade Guide Height by turning the knob labeled &amp;quot;Adjustment&amp;quot; on the back of the machine. A good height is about 1/4&amp;quot; above the piece you are cutting.&lt;br /&gt;
# Lock the Blade Guide by turning the knob labeled &amp;quot;Lock&amp;quot; on the back of the machine. This will secure the blade and provide a better cut.&lt;br /&gt;
# Check the stock height by placing he stock next to the blade to ensure the 1/4&amp;quot; margin is there. Double checking is always a good thing.&lt;br /&gt;
# Aim the Blow Off Nozzle. This blows away all the shavings that occur during the cutting process. Aim directly where the blade will come in contact with the stock.&lt;br /&gt;
# Make use of the fence. This is the pushing tool that is hanging from the bottom of the machine that guides the stock through the blade. Bring it up against your piece.&lt;br /&gt;
# Turn on the machine. The Black button is On, the Red button is Off.&lt;br /&gt;
# Now you are ready to begin cutting! Apply a gentle, steady pressure using the fence so that the acrylic piece is getting cut by the blade.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once you are finished cutting the piece, turn off the machine, remove the fence and the piece from the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
# Reset the Space! Use the shop vacuum to remove all shavings on and around the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
* Safety glasses must be worn when crossing into the shop area marked on the floor.&lt;br /&gt;
* No horseplay in the shop.&lt;br /&gt;
* Don’t do anything distracting to yourself or others while operating machinery.&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not wear any loose clothing, jewelry, or lanyards.&lt;br /&gt;
* No hats or open toed shoes.&lt;br /&gt;
* Hair will not extend below the collar.&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not wear gloves while operating machinery.&lt;br /&gt;
* Food or drink is allowed when not operating machinery and it is kept a safe distance away from the machines.&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not attempt to operate machinery in the shop that you have not been certified on by GFU engineering personnel.&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not argue with volunteers or shop staff. Contact Justin Johnson if you have issues that need to be resolved.&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not operate machinery without a shop supervisor or trained volunteer in the shop with you. Never operate equipment alone in the shop.&lt;br /&gt;
* The first aid kit is located in the machine shop, next to the woodshop doors.&lt;br /&gt;
* If you see a safety violation inform the person immediately and encourage them to comply with the policies&lt;br /&gt;
* Keep hand clear of the blade when cutting&lt;br /&gt;
* Securely hold stock when cutting&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not leave machine running while it is not cutting&lt;br /&gt;
* Wait for blade to stop moving before reaching for a small part near the blade.&lt;br /&gt;
* Don’t do anything that would require an additional rule to be added to this list.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1185 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
If the machine is making clunking noises when cutting, use the wax to clean the blade and clean out the chips inside the machine by opening up the table. Consult a shop supervisor for assistance.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Vertical Bandsaw should always be clean before and after use. If something is not working and needs to be fixed, consult a shop supervisor&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Blade Change&lt;br /&gt;
|As needed, usually when excessive force is needed to cut&lt;br /&gt;
|Tech&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|General Cleaning&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean inside of machine with vacuum&lt;br /&gt;
|Every 2 weeks&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Slip_Roller&amp;diff=9073</id>
		<title>Slip Roller</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Slip_Roller&amp;diff=9073"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T17:48:56Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is sheet metal equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Baileigh&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=142263020 &lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=SR-5016M&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Metal&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has function=Slip Roller&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1321&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File: Slip_rollerIcon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Slip Roller icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Slip_Roller.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Baileigh Slip Roller&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=Baileigh Slip Roller&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Noah Bloomquist;nbloomquist17@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A slip roller is a machine used to roll sheet metal. The machine consists of 3 rollers that feed in the sheet metal and force it curve. The distance between the rollers is adjustable and therefore the radius is adjustable.  In addition to rolling sheet metal, the roller in the shop includes wire grooves for bending solid rod. Due to the size of the rollers, the minimum forming diameter of the roller in the shop is 4.5&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nr5xhpI4iL4&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.baileigh.com/slip-roll-sr-5016m Product Page]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:Baileigh Slip Roller.pdf|Baileigh Slip Roller Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Demonstrate you can safely setup the slip roller and roll a piece of scrap material. If you roll a complete circle be very careful when you disengage the top roll and slip the material off the roller. Never try to force the roller back into position after disengaging it. You have lots of leverage when holding onto the end of the roll and will cause damage by forcing it back into position. If the roller will not easily move back into position have someone gently crank the rotation handle until the roller drops into place.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Adjust the radius by turning the knobs on the back of the machine. This adjusts the distance between the rollers.&lt;br /&gt;
#Adjust the amount of pinch using the knobs on the front left of the machine for materials of different thickness.  If the gap between the rollers is too far apart the material will slip on the rollers.&lt;br /&gt;
#Begin by pulling the right side of the top roller out of its slot.&lt;br /&gt;
#Insert your piece that you would like to roll between the rollers.&lt;br /&gt;
#Re-secure the top roller inside of the slot prior to rolling.&lt;br /&gt;
#Slowly rotate the handle until you have rolled to the desired radius. If the initial radius is not the desired radius, re-roll at a slightly tighter radius.&lt;br /&gt;
#Unlock the top roller to slide your rolled metal off the end of roller.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using the slip roll.   &lt;br /&gt;
*Never put your finger near the rollers as they could be sucked in and crushed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1321 Canvas Course]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
If you experience the material slipping in the roller you may need to apply more tension by adjusting the roller tension knobs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep the slip roller clean and keep the rolls oiled so they don't rust. There are several lubrication points that need to be checked by the tech.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Lubricate mechanisms &lt;br /&gt;
|Semester&lt;br /&gt;
|Tech&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean machine rolls&lt;br /&gt;
|As Needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Sheet_Metal_Shear&amp;diff=9071</id>
		<title>Sheet Metal Shear</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Sheet_Metal_Shear&amp;diff=9071"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T17:47:58Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is sheet metal equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Peck, Stow &amp;amp; Wilcox Co.&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=G-52&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=H-209&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Metal&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has function=Sheet Metal Shear&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1307&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File: Sheet_metal_shearIcon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Sheet Metal Shear icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Pexto_G-52.JPG&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Sheet Metal Shear&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=Sheet Metal Shear&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Noah Bloomquist;nbloomquist17@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}} &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The shear is used for making straight cuts in sheet metal as well as other materials. The shearing blade is powered by applying force to the foot pedal located on the lower front of the machine.  To prevent damage to yourself and or the machine make sure you obey the following rules: &lt;br /&gt;
* Maximum aluminum material thickness you can cut with this machine is .07&amp;quot; x full width.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Maximum mild steel thickness you can cut with this machine is .06&amp;quot; x 12&amp;quot; wide&lt;br /&gt;
* Maximum stainless steel thickness you can cut with this machine is .04&amp;quot; x 12&amp;quot; (ask before cutting stainless steel)&lt;br /&gt;
* NEVER attempt to cut round stock or wire on the shear.&lt;br /&gt;
* Plastics can be cut up to 1/8&amp;quot; thick x the blade width.&lt;br /&gt;
* Ask Justin or Nick G. prior to cutting any other materials. &lt;br /&gt;
* Always use the cam lock bar to hold material prior to cutting.&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KFaqs6GGc0I}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Foot Pedal: The bar located across the front of the machine used to activate the blade. &lt;br /&gt;
*Hold Down: A cam operated bar in front of the blade used to keep the material from moving during a cut. &lt;br /&gt;
*Hold Down Handles: The handles used to actuate hold down clamp.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Manual [[Media:NO.G52.pdf]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The sheet metal shear is human powered. You will be pressing down on the foot pedal to move the blade that shears the material. The upper rail has two handles for clamping down your work prior to shearing.The manufacturer rates this shear for 16 gauge mild steel.  It would be very difficult to cut a full width of material with this machine so we are limiting the width to 12 inches. It is recommended that you stick to thinner and smaller pieces of material when using the machine. This machine is not designed to cut round stock and it will ruin the blade. Keep body parts away from the blade at all times. Don't stick anything you wouldn't want cut off under the blade.  This machine is not designed to cut round stock or hard materials and both of these will ruin the blade. Only place sheet metal on the shear to prevent other object getting under the blade. After making your cut the edge of the material will most likely be very sharp and need to be deburred.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the demonstration you will need to show understanding of the machine use and setup. You will need to select an appropriate piece of material for the demonstration and make a safe cut. By placing a mark on the material you can demonstrate your ability to align the blade with the cut line.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Find a piece of scrap material that is within the capacity of the machine. Don't waste large pieces of material. Choose a smaller piece preferably an inch or two wide. &lt;br /&gt;
#Draw a cut line on the material using a straight edge and a marker.  &lt;br /&gt;
#Make sure the material hold down is up enough to slide your material under. &lt;br /&gt;
#Make sure the cutting side of the blade aligns with the mark on your material.&lt;br /&gt;
#Pull down on both hold down levers and lock the material in place.  &lt;br /&gt;
#Depending on the width of cut and how much you weigh, you may need to place one or two feet on the foot pedal. &lt;br /&gt;
#Keep your hands away from the blade.  You can hold onto the top hold down rail to steady yourself if needed. &lt;br /&gt;
#You may need to jump or press down on the foot pedal to get the material to shear.  &lt;br /&gt;
#After the material is cut you will need to remove yourself from the foot pedal. &lt;br /&gt;
#Release the hold down levers and remove the material.    &lt;br /&gt;
#Reset the space.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
*Fingers must be kept away from the blade at all times.  Never place your hand or fingers near the blade.&lt;br /&gt;
*Sheet metal can be razor sharp. Always be aware of sharp edges and corners. It is recommended to use gloves when handling sheet metal.&lt;br /&gt;
*Make sure others keep away from the foot pedal. Keep toes/feet out from under the pedal when it comes down.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1307 Canvas Course]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
If you weigh less than 150 pounds you may have problems getting the material to cut. Ask a supervisor for help if you have any issues.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The machine should be oiled periodically by the tech.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Oil Blade&lt;br /&gt;
|As needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Technician&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Rotary_Punch&amp;diff=9056</id>
		<title>Rotary Punch</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Rotary_Punch&amp;diff=9056"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T17:28:32Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is sheet metal equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Metal&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Di-Acro&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=BD-1291&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Turret Punch No. 12&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has function=Rotary Punch&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File: Rotary_punchIcon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Rotary Punch icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Rotary Punch.jpg &lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Rotary Punch&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=48 inch bending brake, 14 gauge&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace= NEEDED&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1313&lt;br /&gt;
}} &lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}} &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A rotary punch, also known as a turret punch. The punch in the shop is a &amp;quot;C Frame&amp;quot; style punch and is used to shear holes in materials.  The turret would normally contain a variety of punches of different shapes and sizes.  The selected punch and die required needs to be properly aligned before use. You can use the laser to cut any shapes needed as the rotary punch does not currently have any tooling. &lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of a similar piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPMle_WkP3k}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Punch- The shaped metal the gets pressed through the working material and removes its shape. &lt;br /&gt;
*Die- The material that supports the punch as it passes through the working material. &lt;br /&gt;
*Turret- The rotary head of the equipment that holds the punch and dies. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
User Manual [[Media:Rotary_Punch_Manual.pdf]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The rotary punch consists of a handle and 2 rotary carousels that house various punch/die sets.  The top carousel needs to match the correct bottom carousel to prevent damage to the punch/dies. Always verify the letter on the top and bottom carousel match. Always move the handle slowly when testing die alignment to verify proper alignment. Most dies have an alignment stub to center the die with the material you want to punch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You will need to demonstrate safely setting up the rotary punch and make a hole or square of your choice.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# You will need to find a piece of 16 gauge or thinner scrap sheet metal larger than the punch you want to use.  The material will also need to be large enough to hold onto.&lt;br /&gt;
# Drill a hole roughly 1/16&amp;quot; in the center location of where you would like to punch. &lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure the handle of the punch is in the up position.&lt;br /&gt;
# Pull the carousel release lever towards the front of the machine to allow rotation of the carousel.&lt;br /&gt;
# Rotate the top carousel to the desired punch and release the lever while rocking the carousel to verify it has locked in place.  &lt;br /&gt;
# Lift the bottom locking lever for the lower carousel and rotate it until the top and bottom letters match. This will align the top punch with the lower die.&lt;br /&gt;
# When in position release the lower lever and rotate the carousel to verify it has locked into position. &lt;br /&gt;
# Slowly lower the punch handle to verify proper alignment of the punch and die. If you feel resistance DO NOT FORCE THE HANDLE. Get help from a supervisor if needed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Slip your material into the slot between the punch and dies.  &lt;br /&gt;
# Align the small center punch located on the end of the punch with the small hole you made earlier in your material. You many need to move the handle to get the punch at the correct height. &lt;br /&gt;
# Pull down on the punch handle and you should feel the punch push through the material. &lt;br /&gt;
# Pull up on the punch handle to retract the punch.  &lt;br /&gt;
# You can now remove your material and it should have a hole where the punch sheared though the material.  &lt;br /&gt;
# Reset the space.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure to keep your hands and fingers away from all pinch points.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always check alignment of the punch and die by slowly advancing the punch handle without material in the machine. If you feel resistance stop and get a supervisor to help you.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1313 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
# If the punch and die does not appear to be align make sure the lock handles are engaged in the carousel by gently trying to rock the carousel back and forth.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several grease fittings located on the machine that need to be greased.  The punches also need to be oiled as needed by the technician.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Lubricate&lt;br /&gt;
|As Needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Technician&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Ring_Roller&amp;diff=9055</id>
		<title>Ring Roller</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Ring_Roller&amp;diff=9055"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T17:27:37Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is sheet metal equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Metal&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Baileigh Industrial&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=R-M5&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=US14464115&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has function=Ring Roller&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File: Ring_rollerIcon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Ring Roller icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Ring_Roller.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Baileigh Ring Roller&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=Baileigh Ring Roller&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Noah Bloomquist; nbloomquist17@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1319&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|275px|thumb|upright=1.0|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A ring roller is a machine used to roll metal into a ring by forcing the material through rollers, also called dies. The rollers can be adjusted to change the formed radius. The maximum mild steel machine capacity is 1/4&amp;quot; x 1&amp;quot; flat bar or 1/2&amp;quot; round rod. The minimum diameter you can form is 2.75&amp;quot;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wiVWrE1OMJ8}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Dies - Round pieces of steel used to guide the material as its shaped.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Manual [[Media:R-M5_07-2019.pdf]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert Text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Demonstrate you can safely setup the Ring Roller. You will then proceed to cut a 5&amp;quot; long piece of 1/4&amp;quot; steel rod. Roll this material into the smallest radius possible. When rolling the material remember to keep your fingers away from the rollers to keep from smashing your fingers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Adjust the knob on the right to adjust the radius, loosen the handle on the left if it restricting you from adjusting the right one.&lt;br /&gt;
#Make sure both knobs are secure and tightened before rolling, always start by rolling the largest radius, and work your way up from there.&lt;br /&gt;
#Insert the bar between the rollers.&lt;br /&gt;
#Turn the crank to roll the metal bar or rod.&lt;br /&gt;
#Start with a large radius and continue to make the radius smaller every time you roll. If you attempt to roll a small radius all at once, the rod may make a corkscrew shape instead of a circle.&lt;br /&gt;
#You have completed the roll when the two ends overlap each other by a couple of inches to account for the ends of the bar or rod that stay straight.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[ https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1319 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Milling_Machine&amp;diff=9053</id>
		<title>Milling Machine</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Milling_Machine&amp;diff=9053"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T17:26:10Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Metal&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has redirect={{FULLPAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:milling_machine_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Milling machine icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:milling_machine_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:milling_machine.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Bridge Port Mill&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1256&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Hardinge&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Bridgeport&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=HJ315030 / J258546 / J295538&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}} &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Bridgeport Series 1 Mill is a vertical mill used to mill various materials into desired shapes and sizes. It can also be used to perform special functions such as drilling, chamfering, reaming, fly cutting, and many more. Some examples of items made from mills are piston bore holes, valve plates, gears, and even your own tools. This is done by using a rotary cutter to remove material by advancing a cutter into a work piece in  varying direction along three axes. Milling covers a wide variety of different operations and machines, on scales from small individual parts to large, heavy-duty gang milling operations. It is one of the most commonly used processes for machining custom parts to precise tolerances. The video below shows a part being machined by a CNC mill which is a computer driven mill, but still demonstrates the milling process. &lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U99asuDT97I}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
* Spindle - The rotating shaft, driven by the motor, that holds the cutting tools.&lt;br /&gt;
* Quill - The part of the vertical milling machine that raises and lowers cutting tools held in the spindle.&lt;br /&gt;
* Quill Handle - The long handle on the right side of the machine that raises and lowers the quill.&lt;br /&gt;
* Endmill - A common machining tool having cutting teeth on the end of a cylindrical shank and usually spiral blades on the lateral surface. Because of this geometry it can cut in any direction. &lt;br /&gt;
* Facing - The process of cutting a flat surface perpendicular to the axes of the milling cutter. Often this is done on the initial piece of raw stock as the first step in the milling process.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Deburring - To neaten and smooth the rough edges or ridges of a part after it has been machined.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Edge finding - The process of using an edge finder to align the coordinate system of the mill with the corner of your part.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Collet - A device that forms a collar around an object to be held and exerts a strong clamping force on the object when it is tightened. On the mill the collet is attached to the spindle and is used to hold cutting tools in place.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Parallels - Thin, flat pieces of metal that are used to hold a work piece &amp;quot;parallel&amp;quot; to the mill's work table.    &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== [https://www.hardinge.com/wp-content/uploads/KneeMill-Complete-Manual.pdf User Manual] ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Operation ====&lt;br /&gt;
When making a part, it can usually be milled in several different ways and as a result this will focus on general operations such as changing tools, starting and stopping the spindle, changing speeds, and changing gears. To learn how to mill the specific part for the demonstration see the video below. The first thing you will need to do is properly secure your work piece in the vice. Place the piece in between the jaws and turn the handle clockwise to tighten. If the piece is to small to protrude from the top of the vice use a set of parallels to raise the work piece above the vice. This makes it easy to face the work piece without damaging the vice. Next you will need to insert a tool. To insert a cutting tool under the new system, push the tool upwards into the collet with one hand and then push quill handle up with the other to compress the spring above the collet. Pushing up on the quill handle will allow the the tool to slide up into the collet and the tool will lock in place once the handle is lowered. A decent amount of force is required to compress the spring so don't be afraid to push hard. To release the tool, hold it in one hand while pushing up on the quill handle and then pull it out once the spring is compressed. You are then ready to begin machining. Use the spindle start-stop switch to turn on the mill. You will notice an option for high or low on the switch. If the mill is in high gear, the high setting will run the spindle forward (clockwise) and the low setting will run the spindle in reverse. If the mill is in low gear, the opposite will occur. If you are not sure what gear the mill is in look at the high-low lever to determine the gear (check out the images below to see the location of the switches). Once the mill is on you will need to adjust the spindle speed to match your material by referring to the speed chart on the wall above the mill and turning the spindle speed hand wheel till the speed is correct. Only adjust the speed while the machine is ON. You may need to switch gears to achieve the proper speed. Do this by rotating the high-low range lever from the current gear to the desired gear. Do not force the lever into place if there is resistance; instead use your other hand to slightly twist the spindle so that the range lever slides into place. After the machine is on, use the axes adjustment handles and the digital display to mill your part. Feel free to ask a shop supervisor for specifics or best milling processes for your part.  &amp;lt;gallery widths=&amp;quot;250&amp;quot; heights=&amp;quot;250&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:MillOn.png&lt;br /&gt;
File:MillSpeed.png&lt;br /&gt;
File:MillRange.png&lt;br /&gt;
File:QuillHandle.png&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the demonstration, you will face a piece of aluminum stock, drill a hole in the center, ream the hole, and deburr all of the edges. Reference the video below to see what this should look like. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
This video contains specific information for using the Mills in the Maker Hub as well as a basic overview of what will be expected in your live demonstration. {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJjXAxYH9TA}}{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0190xVaZPNw}}'''Note''' that the tool changing system has been upgraded since this video was produced. To insert a cutting tool using the new system, push the collet upwards into the spindle with one hand and then push  the quill handle against the end of travel with the other to compress the spring in the tool change mechanism.  Make sure the quill lock is unlocked when installing or removing tooling. Pushing up on the quill handle will allow the the tool to slide up into the collet and the tool will lock in place once the handle is lowered. A decent amount of force is required to compress the spring so don't be afraid to push hard. Make sure to push the quill feed handle towards the machine to prevent the handle from disengaging. To release the tool, hold it in one hand while pushing up on the quill handle and then pull it out once the spring is compressed.  Never make contact with the cutter while inserting or removing tooling from the spindle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Safety ==&lt;br /&gt;
* General shop protocol is important when using the mill. Long hair, long sleeves, jewelry, gloves, and lanyards are all risks to be wrapped up by the spindle and should not be worn.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Always make sure that there is plenty of space between the cutting tool and the work piece before turning on the mill. If the tool comes into contact with the work piece before getting up to speed and is set deeper than the maximum cutting depth, things will break.    &lt;br /&gt;
* At times your work piece may be obscured by metal chips while cutting. Do not remove them while the machine is running. Turn off the mill, wait till it comes to a complete stop, and then remove the chips. There are some brushes on the tool rack that may be helpful for removing stubborn chips.    &lt;br /&gt;
* The milling process is great at creating sharp edges. Be aware of this when handling the work piece and make sure to deburr any sharp edges.&lt;br /&gt;
* Never make contact with the cutters as they are razor sharp and will cut you.&lt;br /&gt;
* Never pass your hand under a cutter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1256 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
* Not cutting smoothly - Check that the spindle is set to the proper direction. This will cause the tool to not cut properly and will damage the tool. Check that the tool is sharp and the cut depth is not too large as well. Adding cutting oil will also improve the cut. &lt;br /&gt;
* Can't reach low spindle speeds - If you adjust the speed dial to a low spindle speed but the spindle is still moving fast then the mill must be switched into low range. Stop the mill, flip the lever on the right side of the machine to low, and then turn the mill back on. Make sure to turn on switch to low when the mill is in low range or the spindle will spin backwards. &lt;br /&gt;
* Difficult to shift to low range - At times it can difficult to lock the lever into place when switching between high and low range. If this occurs, twist the spindle slightly while switching the lever so that it will lock in place. Twisting the spindle helps the internal gears lock into place properly. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This machine requires minimal maintenance but like all the other machines in the Maker Hub it is important to clean the machine of metal chips and any other debris after each use. The shop vac is best suited for this task. Anything more advanced is taken care of by Justin.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Metal_Laser_Cutter&amp;diff=9051</id>
		<title>Metal Laser Cutter</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Metal_Laser_Cutter&amp;diff=9051"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T17:25:29Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Metal&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File: Metal_laser_cutterIcon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:FabLight.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=FabLight Laser&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1316&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=FabLight&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Tube and Sheet FL4500&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=10021.02-0076-301&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}} &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
FabLight FL4500 is a versatile and powerful laser cutter that is capable of engraving and cutting sheet and tube metal. It will cut and engrave on square, rectangle, and round tubes up to 2&amp;quot; diameter as well as sheet metal. Internal features on tubing such as complex holes, slots, notches, and other features along the tube are also very easy to cut. It is equipped with an industrial-quality IPG fiber laser and precise mechanical control, you can make just about anything metal you can think of, including: custom signs, furniture, panels, enclosures, industrial components, jewelry &amp;amp; art. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5qoiouFq50&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPpDD0U3Hps}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
* Engrave - Removes a thin layer of material from the surface of the metal along an established line. This has great accuracy but only produces a thin line.&lt;br /&gt;
* Raster - Very similar to an engrave but a raster is used to engrave a large area by passing over the area repeatedly. This works great for lettering, designs and such but does lose a little accuracy around the edges.&lt;br /&gt;
* FabCreator - The software used to set up a cut from a DXF. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== User Manual ====&lt;br /&gt;
[https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/w/images/d/d7/FabLight_Operator_Manual_v3.0.pdf Fablight User Manual]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/w/images/3/31/3D_Fab_Plugin_Manual_v2.0.pdf Solidworks Plugin Manual]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/w/images/d/d2/FabCreator_Manual_v3.0.pdf FabCreator Manual]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Fablight is a simple machine to use for cutting flat stock. A part is saved as a DXF file and then imported to FabCreater where features can be set to cut, engrave, raster, or just be reference geometry. In FabCreator, tabs can be added to make sure small parts don't fall to the bottom of the machine along ''[along what?''] and material properties are set as well. Once the part is set up correctly it is saved to a  USB drive to be transferred to the machine. Most of the interactions with the machine happen through the touchscreen which makes previewing and cutting the job a simple task. Cutting tube stock is more intricate. The Fablight Solidworks Plugin is used to make a 2d DXF out of the 3d Solidworks model by essentially unwrapping the tube until it is one flat piece. This DXF is then wrapped back up into a 3d part in FabCreater before being sent to the machine. Only use the Fablight Solidworks Plugin when cutting or engraving tube stock. When cutting tube stock you will want to cut as close to the chuck as possible to avoid waste.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the demonstration, you are required to engrave your own design on flat stock. This design should include a cut, engrave and raster. If no design is available use a George Fox logo.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
'''For Flat Stock:'''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Setting up the file:&lt;br /&gt;
# Export the desired part as a DXF (a DWG will also work). It does not matter what software was used to create it as long as it can be exported as a DXF.&lt;br /&gt;
# Open the FabCreater software.&lt;br /&gt;
# Import the DXF using [File] &amp;gt; [Import] and make sure to select the correct units when prompted.&lt;br /&gt;
# Go to the [Edit] tab to select and delete any unwanted lines.&lt;br /&gt;
# Alternatively, line types can be adjusted in the [Part] tab to be cut, engraved, a raster, or a reference line. This can be helpful to see what the entire part looks like if when you are cutting a smaller piece for it.[[File:FabCreator.png|none|thumb|627x627px]]&lt;br /&gt;
# Go to the [Properties] tab and select the correct material properties such as material type, thickness, and stock type.&lt;br /&gt;
# While in the [Properties] tab, select the [Move to Origin] option to properly align the part where the laser will begin cutting. If there are multiple parts, align one with the origin and then orient the rest based on that.&lt;br /&gt;
# Hit [Accept].&lt;br /&gt;
# If there are any small parts, tabs can be added to prevent them from falling through the rack by going to the [Process] tab and the clicking the [Tabs] button.&lt;br /&gt;
# Save the file to a  USB drive by going to [Job] &amp;gt; [Make]. Note: Make sure this is not saved in a folder of the  USB drive so the laser can find the job.&lt;br /&gt;
Setting up the laser cutter:&lt;br /&gt;
# Slowly open the nitrogen canister so that the system is not filled to quickly and then adjust the regulator to 150 psi. Do not exceed 150 psi because the pressure in the canister is enough to rupture the hose to the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
# Turn on the Fablight by flipping the switch found on the left side of the machine and then turning the key.[[File:Fab light panel.png|none|thumb|556x556px]]&lt;br /&gt;
# Once it is on select the machine home feature on the touchscreen to move the laser head to its starting position.&lt;br /&gt;
# Open the door on the front of the machine and check that the adjustable chuck is slid all the way to the right so the material tray will not hit it.&lt;br /&gt;
# Slide out the material tray so that the cutting material can be loaded.&lt;br /&gt;
# Place the cutting material anywhere on the tray and slide the tray back in. Make sure a click is heard to signify that the tray is in the correct position. There are two places where it will click you want to stop at the first one. The second one is at the very back of the machine and is where the tray goes when using the chuck.&lt;br /&gt;
# Close the door.&lt;br /&gt;
Performing the cut:&lt;br /&gt;
# Insert the USB drive on the right side of the panel. [''not to be confused with the &amp;quot;Key Switch key&amp;quot;'']&lt;br /&gt;
# Using the touch screen, press [New Job] &amp;gt; your file name &amp;gt; [Select Job]. A preview window will then open up where the model can be checked to make sure everything is correct.&lt;br /&gt;
# Hit the green checkmark to exit the preview.&lt;br /&gt;
# Hit the green checkmark again to move to the next step.&lt;br /&gt;
# Set the origin by moving the x and y slider bars. The laser head will move with the sliders and the exact position can be seen by the red guide laser. The location of the red dot will be the origin used in the FabCreater software and it should be placed where the use of material can be maximized (usually the corner of the material, furthest away from the chuck.).&lt;br /&gt;
# Press [Run Job] on the touchscreen.&lt;br /&gt;
# Press the [Start] button to the top of the touchscreen to begin the cut.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once the cut is completed wait a minute or so to let fumes dissipate and the material to cool.&lt;br /&gt;
# Remove the material from the machine using the door on the front.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Safety ==&lt;br /&gt;
*Laser cutting or engraving of many materials can create hazardous fumes. These fumes may be dangerous to breathe and can damage the FabLight. Consult Manufacturer’s Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for all materials before laser cutting. The user of the FabLight is responsible for exhaust ventilation and removing cutting fumes from the working area. Before operating the FabLight, make sure that the exhaust system working properly.&lt;br /&gt;
*There are often sharp edges left on the material from the cutting process. Be careful handling a fresh cut piece and use the deburring tools to remove any sharp edges. &lt;br /&gt;
*On a similar note a fresh cut piece is usually hot so check the temperature with the back of your hand before picking it up.&lt;br /&gt;
*Make sure to use tabs to prevent collision damage with the cutting head. &lt;br /&gt;
*Before opening any covers, turn off the machine power and remove the key to make sure no cutting operations will happen while you are working inside the the laser cutter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1316 Canvas Course]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
* The job runs but machine does not cut. Most likely the dry run process selected. Toggle dry run off. &lt;br /&gt;
*  The machine does not cut, many sparks visible. The process table is not set correctly or the cutting head or optics are dirty. Ensure correct focal offset, cut speed, cut height, and gas pressure in process table. Check that the nozzle tip is clean, wipe off slag with Scotchbrite.&lt;br /&gt;
*  Machine loses cut so that there crooked lines and gaps in the part. Again this is because the process table parameters14896  ''[Is this a true statement?]''&lt;br /&gt;
*  Incorrect or the cutting head/optics are dirty. Verify cut process parameters including cut speed, cut height, and gas pressure. Check nozzle tip is clean, wipe off slag with Scotchbrite.&lt;br /&gt;
*  Cut does not go all the way through material. Select correct process. Reduce cut speed. Increase assist gas pressure up to 145 PSI. Verify process table is correct. Verify beam centering and focus test. Inspect nozzle tip.&lt;br /&gt;
*  If your machine has a rotary you may encounter two homing errors. If the touchscreen says, “Idler (the chuck that holds the right side of the tube) not homed. Move idler to home”, open the door and move the idler all the way to the right. There is a sensor that detects when the idler is in its home position. Once the idler is in the home position, close the message and repress HOME THE MACHINE. If you encounter an error message saying that the rotary is locked; simply pull out the red pin, close the message, and repress HOME THE MACHINE.&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Just like any other machine tool, the FabLight must be cleaned regularly for optimal performance. Lack of regular preventive maintenance (PM) will lead to damaged machine components, a reduction in part quality, and machine downtime. Cleaning the entire machine takes on average 10 minutes to complete and is easy to do with a single person. Even if the machine does not appear to be dirty, over time metal particles can build up; for optimum machine performance you must adhere to the recommended PM schedule, even if the machine “does not appear to be dirty.”&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHSUXOYKm5Y}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
!Last Done&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1&lt;br /&gt;
|General Cleaning &lt;br /&gt;
|Every 1-2 Weeks depending on usage rate&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean Window&lt;br /&gt;
|Once a month&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3&lt;br /&gt;
|Lubricate drawer slides &lt;br /&gt;
|Quarterly &lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4&lt;br /&gt;
|Apply WD-40 to rails &lt;br /&gt;
|Quarterly&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5&lt;br /&gt;
|Empty clean out drawer &lt;br /&gt;
|Once a month&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
# Vacuum out entire machine and wipe down the encoder strips with a paper towel. See [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHSUXOYKm5Y&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be this video] for details. Also wipe off the cutting head with a paper towel. &lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe down the inside of the window with a microfiber cloth, not the vacuum or a paper towel.&lt;br /&gt;
# Apply grease to the drawer slides to keep them operating smoothly.&lt;br /&gt;
# Spray the rails with WD-40 to lubricate and keep them clean.&lt;br /&gt;
# Open the drawer, remove any large parts by hand, and then vacuum out the rest.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Lathe&amp;diff=9050</id>
		<title>Lathe</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Lathe&amp;diff=9050"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T17:25:03Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Monarch&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=10EE&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=30890 / 38728&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Metal&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has function=Lathe&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1234&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has url=http://www.monarchlathe.com/products/lathes/toolroom/monarch-ee-series&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:lathe_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Lathe icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:lathe_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:lathe_image.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Monarch Lathe&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=Used turn, face, or part round stock&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has QR code=File:Horizontal Bandsaw QR code.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Isaac Barnes;ibarnes19@georgefox.edu &lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A lathe is a machine tool that rotates the work piece on an axis to perform various operations such as boring, sanding, knurling ,drilling, facing, and turning. It does this with a stationary tool that is applied to the work piece to remove material. The lathe will create an object that is symmetrical about the axis of rotation it was rotated about. It is useful for creating flywheels and other circular parts. There are two lathes available in the machine shop and they have several small differences between the two.  The main difference is the start/stop procedure.  When removing accessories from the tailstock you will need to use a tapered key to drive out the tooling in lathe #1 whereas you can eject the tooling using the tailstock hand wheel on lathe #2.   &lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lcGHtI9Lql4}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
* Spindle - The part of the lathe that rotates.&lt;br /&gt;
* Chuck - Clamping device that holds the material.&lt;br /&gt;
* Tailstock - Adjustable mount that is used to support the material, drill holes, and ream holes. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== [https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/w/images/c/c6/Monarch-10EE-Manual.pdf User Manual] ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To begin you will need to a piece of round stock that is at least a quarter inch longer than the final part. The extra material is so that your part will be the correct length after machining the end to a smooth face (facing). Using the chuck key found in the tool holder, place the stock in the chuck and tighten to secure the stock. Always remove the chuck key from the chuck or it can fly across the room once the lathe is turned on. A common difficulty with using these lathes is activation. The images below demonstrate the differences between Lathe 1 and Lathe 2, please refer to the video below for more information. Lathe 1 must be turned on using the power button circled on the left and the spinning is initiated using the activation lever. Note that the activation lever on Lathe 1 needs to be pulled out before being moved up and down. It also has a neutral position. The lever must be in neutral position for the machine to turn on. It is safer to run the machine in forward because the chips will tend to fall down and into the tray rather than fly up and out. Lathe 2 is controlled by an intuitive button panel. The final piece to using the lathe is setting the correct speed. Refer to the speed chart posted on the wall above the lathes to determine the correct speed for your specific material and set the spindle speed to match. Use the control panel to do this on lathe 2 and the left most knob to do this on lathe 1. You can then begin machining. For more details see the video below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery widths=&amp;quot;300&amp;quot; heights=&amp;quot;230&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Lathe2 on.jpg|Control Panel for Lathe 2&lt;br /&gt;
File:Lathe1 onandoff.jpg|Start Stop Switch and Activation Lever of Lathe 1&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Face a 1” aluminum bar down to 0.75”, drill a hole through the middle, and then ream the hole. Check out the image below to see what this should look like. &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Lathe Demonstration.png|none|thumb|400x400px|Lathe demonstration expectations.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This video contains specific information for using the lathe in the Maker Hub as well as a basic overview of what will be expected in your live demonstration.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqmJ-dvSMHc}}&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
* Never wear gloves, long sleeves, jewelry, or have long hair down as all of these can get caught in the rotating portion of the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure to remove the chuck key. Sounds simple but this is probably the most common mistake in the machine shop. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1234 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
* Not cutting smoothly or Tool is making excessive noise (chattering) - Slow down the feed rate and the amount of material being removed. Check the spindle speed as well. If the problem persists check the tool to make sure it is not chipped and that it is at the correct height. Ask a shop supervisor for help if the tool is damaged.  &lt;br /&gt;
* A small bump remains when facing the end of the material - Adjust the tool height so it is exactly in the center of the material. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This machine requires minimal maintenance but like all the other machines in the Maker Hub it is important to clean the machine of metal chips and any other debris after each use. Anything more advanced is taken care of by Justin.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Hydraulic_Press&amp;diff=9049</id>
		<title>Hydraulic Press</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Hydraulic_Press&amp;diff=9049"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T17:24:28Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Baileigh&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=30T Air Press&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=142263020&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Metal&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has function=Shop Press&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1283&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has url=http:https://www.baileigh.com/shop-press-hsp-30a&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File: Hydraulic_pressIcon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Hydraulic Press icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Shop_Press.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Baileigh 30 Ton Hydraulic/Air Press&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=Baileigh 30 Ton Hydraulic/Air Press&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A '''hydraulic press''' is a machine tool that uses a hydraulic cylinder to generate a compressive force. They are often used in shops to press interference fit parts together, such as gears onto shafts or bearings into housings.&lt;br /&gt;
Some of the other uses include bending and forming metal. Some presses use a manual pump to produce the force while others use compressed air or a hydraulic pump driven by an electric motor.     &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JxJUPD-Ajnc}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Pressure Gauge'''- An indicator that uses a needle to indicate the amount of force being applied to the work piece. &lt;br /&gt;
*'''Release Valve Handle'''- This is the control handle for releasing the hydraulic pressure in the system. Turn the handle clockwise prior to charging the hydraulic system and counter-clockwise when releasing pressure.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Table Holding Pin'''- 4 removable pins support the table and allow for height adjustment.  &lt;br /&gt;
*'''Ram'''- This is is the end of the hydraulic cylinder rod that moves and pushes against your work piece. &lt;br /&gt;
*'''Pump Handle Socket'''- This is the location for handle placement while pumping up the hydraulic system.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Table Plates'''- Steel blocks used to support the work piece while using the press.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The press consists of a pump and hydraulic ram that moves down towards the table as the handle is cycled.  The hydraulic press has a 58 mm diameter ram and can produce 30 tons of force. Some of the many uses including installation and removal of press fit parts as well as metal forming and punching.  The ram can also be powered using compressed shop air, but should never be attempted without the shop techs supervision.  The ram can be adjusted laterally as need to accommodate a specific part.  As long as the ram keeps moving the force will remain fairly low. When the cylinder stops moving the hydraulic pressure in the system will start to build. As the force increases so does the risk. Pieces that are subjected to a high amount of force can shatter or explode. Make sure you are aware of what is happening and don't keep pumping on the handle and increasing the force without knowing what is occurring.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make sure you have a full understanding of what you are attempting to accomplish before possibly getting into a risky situation. Ask a supervisor if you have any questions. Its important to properly set up the press before performing a job. It is good practice to observe the setup from various angles to ensure part alignment. If there is any risk something could fall on the floor during the process have a box or padding to catch the part. The table needs to be moved to the proper height to accommodate the work piece and ram travel.  The table plates have two sides.  One side is flat and the other has a V shape for holding round parts. The plates have a pin in each corner that prevent the plate from sliding off the table. You want to avoid extending the ram farther than needed to prevent material from tipping over. Always make sure you will have enough ram travel to perform the task at hand. The release valve handle will need to be turned fully clockwise to allow the system to build pressure. It is imperative that you keep the work piece from tipping or slipping to the side while applying force to prevent flying parts and or damage. You should use a guide when pressing in a pin to prevent the pin or rod from slipping while installation. Keep an eye on the force gauge to verify your work piece is not sticking or hanging up. When the piece is pressed to its maximum travel pressure will start to build and could cause damage if you keep cycling the handle. Be aware that a part or piece could bottom out and avoid applying more force at the end of your parts travel than needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Demonstrate you can setup the press and safety install a pin with a press fit into an aluminum block.  You will also press the pin out after insertion.  The pin has an outer diameter of .375&amp;quot; and the block has 4 holes that have been reamed to .374&amp;quot; The dowel pin, plate, guide, and extraction tool will be provided.  Remember the guide will help keep the pin straight during installation. The extraction tool has a pin with a smaller diameter that will assist in pressing out the dowel pin. You will also need an extra person to help adjust the table height.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Picture of tooling required:&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Hydraulic Press Demonstration.jpg|600px|thumb|none]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Baileigh Hydraulic Press.jpg|none|thumb|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Pin Insertion'''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Place the plate you will be pressing the pin into on the top of the table frame support blocks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. Set the dowel pin into the guide and make sure the table frame and support plates are high enough for the ram to be within an inch of the top of the dowel pin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:HP Step 1.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. If you need to adjust the table frame height remove the table plates and assembly pieces before removing the safety clips from the pins supporting the table. The table plates are heavy so be carefule not to drop them. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. To move the table frame down you will remove the two upper table support pins and reinstall them in the desired holes below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. You will need a second person to help lift the table frame slightly while removing the remaining two table support pins and slowly lower the table onto the support pins below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6. Reinstall the top two table support pins and safety clips. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. To move the table frame up you will leave the lower support pins installed and remove the two upper support pins. The lower support pins will help prevent the table from accidentally dropping to the floor while making an adjustment. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8. You will need a second person to help lift the table frame while installing the two removed support pins in the 2 lower positions.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. Install the 2 remaining top support pins and safety clips.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
10. Place table support plates and assembly pieces back onto the table.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
11. Place the dowel pin into the guide and align the pin with the hole in the plate. Its good practice to keep the dowel pin centered on the ram so the force is centered. &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:HP Step 3.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
12. Make sure the pressure relief handle has been turned clockwise to allow pressure to build.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
13.  Insert the pump handle into the handle socket.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
14. Slowly pump the handle while watching the force gauge and the pin. Make sure pressure is not building. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
15. If the pin starts at an angle do NOT continue to apply force as this could cause the dowel pin to slip sideways or damage the hole where the dowel presses into. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
16. When the dowel pin is pressed to the bottom of the hole in the block it will contact the support plate and no longer be able to move. The bottoming out of the dowel pin will cause the force to increase on the gauge. Stop cycling the handle when the dowel pin reaches this point.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:HP Step 5.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
17. Turn the pressure relief handle counterclockwise to retract the ram as needed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Pin Removal'''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Place the plate with the pressed in dowel pin (facing downward) on top of the table support plates. You will need to leave a gap between the table plates for the pin to press though. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:HP Step 6.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. Check the distance between the pin extraction tool and the ram.  If the gap is too large the ram will run out of travel before pressing out the dowel pin. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:HP Step 8.jpg|none|thumb]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. If you need to adjust the table frame height remove the safety clips from the frame support pins supporting the table. Remove everything from the table to prevent accidentally dropping items on your feet. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. To move the table frame down you will remove the two upper support pins and reinstall them in the desired holes below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. You will need a second person to help lift the table frame slightly while removing the remaining two support pins and slowly lower the table onto the support pins below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6. Reinstall the top two support pins and safety clips. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. To move the table frame up you will leave the lower support pins installed and remove the two upper support pins. The lower support pins will help prevent the table from accidentally dropping to the floor while making an adjustment. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8. You will need a second person to help lift the table frame while installing the two removed support pins in the 2 lower positions.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. Install the 2 remaining top support pins and safety clips.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
10. Place table support plates and assembly pieces back onto the table.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
11. Make sure the pressure relief handle has been turned clockwise to allow pressure to build.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
12. Insert the pump handle into the handle socket.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
13. Center the extraction tool with the end of the dowel pin to be removed.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
13. Slowly cycle the handle while watching the force gauge and the dowel pin. Make sure the pin is starting to move.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:HP Step 9.jpg|none|thumb]]   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
14. You will continue to press the pin using the extraction tool. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
15. As the dowel pin approaches the bottom of plate get ready to catch it to prevent it from falling on the floor. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:HP Step 10.jpg|none|thumb]]   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
16. Turn the pressure relief handle counterclockwise to retract the ram. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
17.  Reset the space.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
When operating a hydraulic press be aware that extremely dangerous forces can be produced which could cause parts to shatter and fly like mini bullets.  It's very important to keep an eye on the force gauge while increasing force and to be aware of the dangers of flying parts.  Always keep you hands away from the ram and parts being pressed. Keep stacked parts as short as possible to prevent tilting or buckling. If you have questions ask a supervisor prior to attempting a project that could be potentially dangerous.  Be aware that you may be working with heavy material located several feet above the floor and there is potential to drop metal on your feet. Make sure the 4 locking pins located on the table plates are engaged to prevent the plates from sliding off the table.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1283 Canvas Course]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
If you pump the handle and the ram doesn't move try tightening the release valve knob.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep the press clean. The hydraulic oil level and hoses should be checked by the tech on a regular basis.  If you notice any hydraulic leaks notify the technician.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Wipe down &lt;br /&gt;
|As needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Horizontal_Bandsaw&amp;diff=9048</id>
		<title>Horizontal Bandsaw</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Horizontal_Bandsaw&amp;diff=9048"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T17:23:57Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Ellis Mfg. Company Inc.&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=1600&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=161310903&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Metal&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has function=Horizontal Bandsaw&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1265&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has url=http://www.ellissaw.com/mitre-band-saw-overview/1600-mitre-band-saw/&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:horizontal_bandsaw_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Horizontal Bandsaw&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:horizontal_bandsaw_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Ellis1600_Horizontal Bandsaw.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Ellis Model 1600 Horizontal Bandsaw&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=Used to cut large stock&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has QR code=File:Horizontal Bandsaw QR code.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Noah Bloomquist; nbloomquist17@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A horizontal band saw is a type of band saw where the piece stays stationary and the cutting head is a band saw arranged horizontally that cuts into the part by gravity assist. Our horizontal bandsaw in the shop is the [http://www.ellissaw.com/mitre-band-saw-overview/1600-mitre-band-saw Ellis Model 1600]. &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:black&amp;quot;&amp;gt;It can be used to rough cut metal or plastic (NO WOOD) stock to length. It has a cutting capacity of 10&amp;quot; Round and 10&amp;quot; by 8&amp;quot; rectangle at 90 degrees or 6-7/8&amp;quot; round and 8&amp;quot; by 6&amp;quot; rectangle when rotated to 45 degrees.&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
* Kerf - The slit made by cutting with a saw. This is important to keep in mind when positioning the cut or the final cut may end up shorter than desired. &lt;br /&gt;
* Horizontal Bandsaw Components:  [[File:Horizontal Bandsaw Terms.png|none|thumb|814x814px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== User Manual ====&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:Ellis_1600_Safety.pdf|Ellis 1600 Safety PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/w/images/b/b6/Ellis_1600_Manual.pdf Installation and Operating Instructions]&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/w/images/1/11/Horz_Bandsaw_Tension.pdf Blade Tensioning Guide]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first thing you will want to do is mark your stock where it should be cut. Once that is done place the material on the saw table and lower the blade to just above the material so you can accurately line the saw blade up with the mark on the material. If you are cutting rectangular stock make sure the longer side is the one on table. This allows more of the blade teeth to engage the material and lowers the stress on the blade as a result. To lower the blade, hold the handle on the idler wheel end of the saw with one hand and then open the hydraulic feed control by twisting the knob counterclockwise with the other hand. Lower the bade to just above the material and then close the feed control to hold the blade in place. Line up your mark with the saw blade but don't forget about the blade kerf if you are concerned about accuracy. Clamp the material in place with the vice and apply some oil to the cut area. You are now ready to cut. Press the green button to turn on the saw and then open the feed control slightly and keep one hand on the handle of the machine head to slowly lower the blade.  Once the blade has a cut the depth of the teeth you can let go and gravity will feed the saw. The saw will automatically turn off when the cut is complete, but if you need to stop the saw during the cut press the red emergency stop button. Reset the space when you are done. All shavings should be cleaned up and disposed of properly. Put any extra stock back in its respective spot. When finished, make sure the blade arm is laying completely down so that the auto shutoff switch is engaged and no one can fit anything under the blade without raising the arm.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cut a 1.375” long piece of 1” aluminum round stock for the lathe demonstration part.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
This video contains specific information for using the Horizontal Bandsaw in the Maker Hub as well as a basic overview of what will be expected in your live demonstration.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_wj7P3fYk0&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be}}&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
* Never place your hand below the blade. If, for some reason, the blade were to drop, significant injury could occur. &lt;br /&gt;
* Take care when loading stock that it is clamped firmly and set up so that as many of the teeth can be in contact with the material as possible. For rectangular stock this would mean placing the long side parallel with the floor. Doing these things will protect the blade from damage and reduce the chance of the material coming loose during a cut. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1265 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
* Not cutting smoothly - Slow the drop rate. If this issue persists ask the shop supervisor to wax the blade and remove any metal chips clogging the teeth. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The most important maintenance procedure for the Horizontal Bandsaw  is to keep it clean by vacuuming up any metal chips created by a cut. Also, the Bandsaw should be waxed every couple of cuts or if the Bandsaw is not cutting smoothly. If the Bandsaw continues to kick, you may unplug the machine and use pliers to remove metal chunks stuck to the blade&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean up Metal Chips &lt;br /&gt;
|After each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Wax the Blade &lt;br /&gt;
|As needed &lt;br /&gt;
|Shop Supervisor&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Hand_Bender&amp;diff=9047</id>
		<title>Hand Bender</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Hand_Bender&amp;diff=9047"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T17:23:27Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Di-Acro&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Model 2 Bender (02HB)&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=111812&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Metal&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has function=Hand Bender&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1290&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has url=https://www.diacro.com/product/model-2-bender/&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File: Hand_benderIcon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Hand Bender icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Hand_Bender.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Di-Acro Hand Bender&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=Di-Acro Hand Bender&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A hand bender is a machine used to bend wire, bar stock, and tubing using mechanical advantage.  You can quickly bend hooks and other designs after setting up the machine with the correct tooling. It uses a variety of dies for different types of bends and radii.The bender is firmly mounted to the table in the Machine Shop.  &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of bending a piece of rod:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_7hRMkp4TUA}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of bending a piece flat bar:&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2W9Mm2B7JM}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See the diagram on page 4 of the [https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/w/images/0/04/Di-Acro_Hand_Bender.pdf User Manual] for complete terminology and visual reference.&lt;br /&gt;
* Radius pin - The dye that the stock is formed around. Sized by radius. &lt;br /&gt;
** The following sizes are available in the maker-hub: 1/8&amp;quot;, 3/16&amp;quot;, 1/2&amp;quot;, 11/16&amp;quot;, 1&amp;quot;, 1 3/4&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
* Locking pin - A cam pin used to lock the material against the radius pin. Depending on the application, using a holding pin instead of a locking pin may be easier.&lt;br /&gt;
* Holding pin - A pin used to brace the material against the radius pin. A holding pin may be used when there is enough material behind the desired bend to brace against the holding pin.&lt;br /&gt;
* Handle - The thing you grab to gain mechanical advantage and exert force on the material.&lt;br /&gt;
* Forming nose - The contact point between the handle and the material. &lt;br /&gt;
* Trigger - The lever- esc thing on top of the handle responsible for bracing the forming nose against bending in a particular direction. The trigger should always point in the direction that the handle is being pulled. &lt;br /&gt;
* Adjusting Bolt - NOT a technical term, used instead of &amp;quot;SCREW-HHCS 1/2-20X2&amp;quot;. For the purposes of explaining how to use the hand bender, the adjusting bolt refers to the bolt that you loosen to adjust the distance between the forming nose is to the radius pin. See #27 on the figure on page 4 of the [https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/w/images/0/04/Di-Acro_Hand_Bender.pdf User Manual] &lt;br /&gt;
[[:File:Di-Acro Hand Bender.pdf|User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.diacro.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Art-Of-Bending_2013.pdf Art of Bending]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHKbXlK4W6A Simple Bend]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2W9Mm2B7JM Flat Bend]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Read/skim the &amp;quot;'''Art of Bending'''&amp;quot; document to find out how to set up the equipment. Then Watch the &amp;quot;Simple Bend&amp;quot; video to see how the equipment functions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To demonstrate competency on the hand bender you will be required to make a s hook. A Training Venture (TV) that uses the hand bender is the [[Triangle]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:S Hook.jpg|thumb|291x291px|&lt;br /&gt;
S Hook&lt;br /&gt;
]]&lt;br /&gt;
1) Read and understand the terminology section of the wiki.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2) Gather all necessary supplies: 0.25&amp;quot; round mild steel stock, ruler, sharpie, hacksaw, 1/2&amp;quot; R radius pin, locking pin, 3/4&amp;quot; wrench.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3) Cut a piece of 0.25&amp;quot; round mild steel stock 6&amp;quot; long using a hacksaw. (A hacksaw should be used instead of the horizontal band-saw because the diameter of the material being cut is small enough that only one-two teeth on the band-saw blade will contact the material at a given time. The likelihood of damaging the saw blade or having the stock become caught in the blade increases anytime less than three teeth are in contact with the cut stock.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4) Using a ruler and sharpie, mark the middle point and make a mark 1/8&amp;quot; from each end respectively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5) Insert the 1/2&amp;quot; R radius pin into the center hole and place the locking pin in the 2nd closest hole.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6) Insert the 6&amp;quot; rod between the radius and locking pins. Tighten the cam such that the 1/8&amp;quot; mark is tangent to the radius pin. It is a tight fit so rocking the locking pin back and forth may be necessary to adjust properly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7) As needed, use the 3/4&amp;quot; wrench adjust the adjusting bolt such that the locking pin does not interfere with the path of the forming nose. The middle position should work.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8) Ensure that the trigger is pointed in the correct direction (the direction you will pull the handle).  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9) Bend the rod until the center mark on the rod barely touches the radius pin. The rod will spring back so a slight over-bend is necessary. You should have a p shape with a gap. *   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
10) Repeat step 5 for the opposite end with the p shape facing the forming nose.    &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
11) Bend the rod until the center mark on the rod barely touches the radius pin. *   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
12) Since the forming nose is applying a force to the nice p you had, it will be slightly deformed. To Fix this, simply put the deformed side around the radius pin and re-bend it until you are satisfied with the shape.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
13) Reset the space.            &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;nowiki&amp;gt;*&amp;lt;/nowiki&amp;gt;   If the rod slips loose during the bending process tighten the locking pin and adjust the location slightly. If the issue persists try clamping the center of the rod between the radius and locking pins and bending about this point.   &lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
*Keep all hands and fingers out of any pinch points.&lt;br /&gt;
*Be aware of your surroundings before swinging the bending handle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1290 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
This is a very basic piece of equipment so very little trouble shooting should be required.  See the &amp;quot;Art of Bending&amp;quot; document for machine setup.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Tech will lubricate zerk fitting as needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Grease rotation Zerk&lt;br /&gt;
|As needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Technician&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Drill_Press&amp;diff=9046</id>
		<title>Drill Press</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Drill_Press&amp;diff=9046"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T17:22:53Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Metal&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number= 20532906&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:image pending.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Drill Press icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:drill_press_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:drill_press_image.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Used for drilling noncritical holes&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1260&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Clausing&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=20&amp;quot; Variable Speed&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Clausing Drill Press is a 20” variable speed drill press primarily used for drilling holes when absolute precision is not a requirement. Often this machine is helpful when a noncritical hole is needed on a part because it is possible to drill perpendicular holes in parts somewhat accurately, but not with the precision of a mill.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
* Spindle - The rotating shaft that transfers power the drill bit.&lt;br /&gt;
* Quill - The tube surrounding the spindle which moves up and down when drilling a hole but does not rotate. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Chuck - The clamping device that holds the drill bit and is attached to the end of the spindle.&lt;br /&gt;
* Vice - The device that securely holds the work piece.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== [https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/w/images/f/f3/Clausing_20_Manual.pdf User Manual] ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
Begin by clamping your piece down with the vice. The exact positioning of the piece is not critical because it can be changed later with the x-y adjustments. Do not try to drill without the piece being clamped or it may catch and turn into a spinning blade. It is also possible to twist and raise the work table if needed. Insert the desired drill bit into the chuck and tighten it with the chuck key. Make sure the bit is centered in the chuck and that there is at least a 1/8&amp;quot; gap between the bottom of the chuck and the end of the drill's grooves. Note that you should start the hole with the hole starter tool before using the actual bit. Fine tune the position of the piece using the x-y adjustments and turn on the drill press with the start button. Adjust the speed to match the material you are drilling. You can find the correct speed on the chart above the mills. Also, ONLY adjust the speed while the drill press is ON to prevent damage to the drill press. Now you can drill your hole. For optimal results, lubricate the cutting area with machining oil before drilling a use peck drilling, i.e. drilling down a small amount, lifting out the bit to clear scraps from the hole, and then repeating. Don't forget to reset the space by cleaning up any metal chips and returning any drill bits that were used during the process.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The demonstration for the drill press is simple. All you need to do is perform the correct drilling procedure while drilling a hole in a piece of scrap metal. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
This video contains specific information for using the drill press in the Maker Hub as well as a basic overview of what will be expected in your live demonstration.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJWyROfHOd8}}&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
* Wear proper safety equipment like safety glasses and closed toed shoes because hot metal chips can burn. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Keep hands clear of rotating chuck/tooling. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure the chuck key has been removed from the chuck prior to starting the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure material is secure in the vice. If it comes loose the material will become a spinning blade.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* No hats, jewelry, watches, hair below the shoulders, baggy long sleeves, or gloves while operating the drill press. Loose items can get caught on the chuck or tooling and pull you in. &lt;br /&gt;
* Don't brush away shavings while the machine is running. This is a common temptation but can end in getting caught in the drill bit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1260 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
* Difficulty Drilling - Add machining oil and replace the bit if it seems dull. Remember to &amp;quot;peck drill&amp;quot; deep holes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only things that need to be done to maintain the drill press are general cleaning and periodic lubrication of key joints. For details on the lubrication process see the user manual.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
!Last Completed&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean up metal shavings&lt;br /&gt;
|After each use &lt;br /&gt;
|Student &lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Lubricate key components&lt;br /&gt;
|As needed &lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Buffers&amp;diff=9044</id>
		<title>Buffers</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Buffers&amp;diff=9044"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T17:22:22Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Metal&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:BuffersIcon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Buffer.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Baldor 332B Buffer&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1286&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Baldor&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=332B&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=X1810057501 / X1810057506&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Baldor buffers are built rugged for demanding work loads. 1,800 RPM buffers offer the ultimate in buffer flexibility. Excellent for polishing and buffing metal, aluminum, brass and copper.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is video about polishing. This guy is wearing gloves while polishing but you should '''never''' wear gloves around rotating equipment. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_SidCppOfJY Video Demonstration}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Buffing Wheel Rake -Metal teeth mounted to a wooden handle used for cleaning the buffing wheels.&lt;br /&gt;
*Rouge -A polishing compound that normally comes in bars.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''User Manual''' [[Media:Baldor.pdf]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a cloth wheel located on both sides of the buffer motor.  When you rub the polishing rouge against the cloth wheels some of the material embeds and sticks in the cloth. As you press material up against the wheel small amounts of material get removed and begin to polish the metal surface. You will need to apply more rouge as the material is used up.  The wheels spins at 1800 RPM so remember to always work on the lower portion of the wheel and never hold any parts so the edges can catch on the wheel. Never wear gloves while using rotating equipment.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You will need to demonstration how to setup the buffer and safely polish a piece of scrap aluminum.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Select a scrap piece of aluminum or a part to polish.&lt;br /&gt;
# Debur the part so no sharp edges are present.&lt;br /&gt;
# select the proper rouge for the material you are polishing.&lt;br /&gt;
# Put on a face shield to protect your face.&lt;br /&gt;
# Turn on the power switch for the buffer motor. &lt;br /&gt;
# Apply the polishing rouge to the cloth wheel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
*The buffing wheels can catch the material you are polishing and rip it out of your hands. &lt;br /&gt;
*Be aware of the direction of the spinning wheels.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Never hold a part so the edge can catch the wheel.&lt;br /&gt;
*Never wear gloves while buffing.  If a part gets warm take a break and let it cool off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1286 Canvas Course]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
Always start with the correct rouge for the material you are working with. Use the rake as needed to clean the wheel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The buffing wheels need to be cleaned using a buffing wheel rake when switching between polishing compounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Replace wheels&lt;br /&gt;
|As needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Technician&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Bending_Brake&amp;diff=9042</id>
		<title>Bending Brake</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Bending_Brake&amp;diff=9042"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T17:21:40Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is sheet metal equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Chicago Steel&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=W31&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number= 91016&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Metal&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}} &lt;br /&gt;
 |Has function=Steel Bending Brake&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has url=http://www.tennsmith.com/foot-squaring-shears.html&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:Bending_brakeIcon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1310&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File: 48_Inch_Bending_Brake.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=48 inch bending brake, 14 gauge&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=48 inch bending brake, 14 gauge&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Noah Bloomquist;nbloomquist17@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}} &lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A bending brake is a metalworking machine that allows the bending of sheet metal. The brake is a Chicago W31 steel box and pan brake.  The max material thickness capacity of this machine is 16 gauge mild steel.  In a box-and-pan brake (also known as a finger brake), the clamping bar includes several removable blocks, which may be removed and rearranged to permit bending of restricted areas of a piece of sheet metal or of already partially formed pieces. After bending, a box or pan form is then completed by screw, solder, weld, rivet, or other metal fixing process.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
* [http://www.americanmachinetools.com/how_to_use_a_hand_brake.htm How to Use a Hand Brake]&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=prZtjSlyLFo Box and Pan Brake Video]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Manual [[Media:Chicago-hand-operated-bending-brakes-brochure.pdf]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
*Bending Handle-&lt;br /&gt;
*Clamping Handle-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Parts of the Machine====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Bending Brake Parts 1.jpg|600px|thumb|Clamping Handle and Fingers|none]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Bending Brake Parts 2.jpg|600px|thumb|Bending Handle and Counterweight|none]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert Text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To demonstrate competency on the Bending brake you will be required to bend a piece of sheet metal to a 90 degree angle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Bending Steps ===&lt;br /&gt;
#Ensure that your sheet metal is thinner or equivalent to 16-gauge sheet metal, and ensure that it is less than 48&amp;quot; in width.&lt;br /&gt;
#If making a bend for a box or a pan, adjust the fingers so that the equivalent width of the fingers is just shorter than your sheet metal.&lt;br /&gt;
#Adjust the clamping force and the clamping handle to allow room to insert your work piece.&lt;br /&gt;
#Insert your work piece to the line you want to bend, centered in the brake, and clamp your piece securely.&lt;br /&gt;
#Pull up on the bending handle of the leaf slowly until your piece is bent to the desired angle, and slowly lower the leaf.&lt;br /&gt;
#If the piece does not bend straight, unclamp the handle on the over-bent side and adjust the top leaf.&lt;br /&gt;
#Adjust the clamp handle, and remove your piece.&lt;br /&gt;
#Put back any fingers if adjusted, and deburr if any rough edges are left.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
=== Safety First ===&lt;br /&gt;
#Always make sure your hands are out of the way of the fingers and all moving parts. &lt;br /&gt;
#Be aware of your surroundings to ensure that you do not bump others with the counterweight. &lt;br /&gt;
#If bending a small piece of metal, place it in the center of the brake.&lt;br /&gt;
#Do not attempt to bend material thicker than 16 gauge.&lt;br /&gt;
#Only use sheet metal with the brake.  Don't try to bend round material!&lt;br /&gt;
#You may not use the sheet metal machines without safety glasses!! (Should be obvious if you are following the rules of the shop)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Reset the Space ===&lt;br /&gt;
If you removed or adjusted any fingers, put it back where it belongs. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1310 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The machine needs to be cleaned and pivot points should be lubricated.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Oil Surfaces&lt;br /&gt;
|As Needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Technician&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Bead_Roller&amp;diff=9038</id>
		<title>Bead Roller</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Bead_Roller&amp;diff=9038"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T17:21:12Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Metal&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is sheet metal equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File: Bead_rollerIcon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:210-24m-bead-roller.jpg &lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Bead Roller&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=Bead Roller&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1323&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Mittler Brothers&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=210-24M&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Email&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|130px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A bead roller is a machine used for forming and reinforcing sheet metal. Metal is placed between the rollers (dies) and the material is formed to give extra strength and rigidity. There are many different types of rollers and they can be changed out depending on the needed application. In addition to strengthening sheet metal, the bead roller can also be used to create artistic patterns such as the ones below.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Bead Roll Art.jpg|300x300px]] &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt; &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Isy-6NTqAUw}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Video showing the bead rolling process.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V4STgBsMam8}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Documentation ==&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:New-210-Bead-Roller-Manual-For-Download.pdf|MB Bead Roller Safety Manual PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Training ==&lt;br /&gt;
=== Operation ===&lt;br /&gt;
This machine is best used with a 2 person team. One person needs to slowly crank the handle while the other guides the material through the rollers. Be aware of the following machine maximum capacity.&lt;br /&gt;
* 19 Ga (.040”) Mild Steel&lt;br /&gt;
* 16 Ga (.050”) Aluminum&lt;br /&gt;
* 21 Ga (.035”) Stainless&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Roll a bead down the center of a 5x5” piece of sheet metal&lt;br /&gt;
Procedures&lt;br /&gt;
Begin by tracing the area of your desired bead on the sheet metal.&lt;br /&gt;
Choose the correct die for the desired bead shape and slide it onto the end.&lt;br /&gt;
Next, loosen the tensioning bolt, and place the sheet metal between the two forming dies.&lt;br /&gt;
Tighten the tensioning bolt by turning it two revolutions after both dies contact the sheet metal. Make sure the sheet metal is contacting the traced line where you would like the bead to begin.&lt;br /&gt;
Turn the handle on the opposite side as you guide the metal through the dies. It may be easier to have a second person do this to allow the first person to more accurately guide the sheet metal through the beads.&lt;br /&gt;
If you are rolling the bead to the edge of the metal, gently slip it out after finishing rolling. If you intend for you bead to stop in the middle of the metal, then stop turning the handle and loosen the tensioning bolt till the metal can slip out.&lt;br /&gt;
You can adjust the tensioning bolt to make multiple passes or if you want smaller beads, but typically the tensioning bolt should be rotated twice for single passes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Procedures Begin by tracing the area of your desired bead on the sheet metal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. Choose the correct die for the desired bead shape and slide it onto the end. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Next, loosen the tensioning bolt, and place the sheet metal between the two forming dies. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Tighten the tensioning bolt by turning it two revolutions after both dies contact the sheet metal. Make sure the sheet metal is contacting the traced line where you would like the bead to begin. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Turn the handle on the opposite side as you guide the metal through the dies. It may be easier to have a second person do this to allow the first person to more accurately guide the sheet metal through the beads. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6. If you are rolling the bead to the edge of the metal, gently slip it out after finishing rolling. If you intend for you bead to stop in the middle of the metal, then stop turning the handle and loosen the tensioning bolt till the metal can slip out. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. You can adjust the tensioning bolt to make multiple passes or if you want smaller beads, but typically the tensioning bolt should be rotated twice for single passes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
*Be aware of the location of your fingers in relation to the rollers and gears to avoid pinching/smashing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1323 Canvas Course]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Machine_Shop&amp;diff=9036</id>
		<title>Machine Shop</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Machine_Shop&amp;diff=9036"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T17:20:35Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;With more than 1,500 sq. ft., the machine shop contains a variety of metal working machinery. The capabilities include metal laser cutting, milling, turning as well as sheet metal equipment.   [[File:Machine_Shop.jpg|300px|thumb|The Machine Shop]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current Maker Hub Student Staff in the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
  |Is facility=True&lt;br /&gt;
  |Has ace=Tiana Ringer;tringer19@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
  |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1252&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Schedule=&lt;br /&gt;
View the most up-to-date {{PAGENAME}} schedule [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/14WiQypaqa_Y7ZhVRLeUJ3RdiiTvJ-6q6ma2SderZcIM/edit#gid=0 On this Google sheet]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Equipment Overview =&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::true]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Machine Shop]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has make=Company&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has model=Model |+width=10em&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has ace.Has name=Current Ace&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=broadtable&lt;br /&gt;
 |mainlabel=Name&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::True]][[Has icon::+]] [[Is located in facility::Machine Shop]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has icon=Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Is located in facility&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=plainlist&lt;br /&gt;
 |template=EquipmentIconGallery&lt;br /&gt;
 |outrotemplate=EquipmentIconGalleryOutro&lt;br /&gt;
 |limit=100&lt;br /&gt;
 |link=none&lt;br /&gt;
 |sort=Is located in facility&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
==[[3 commandments]]==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Safety First ===&lt;br /&gt;
Safety First is the rule we hold highest of the three. This rule applies to both the safety of you as well as others  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keeping yourself safe in the Machine Shop is very important, as there are possibilities for accidents if you don't follow the safety guidelines.  Safety starts with you so don't depend on others to keep you safe.  There is a first aid kit located on the south wall near the Wood Shop door.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; The following rules must be followed at all times.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
.        Safety glasses must be worn when crossing into the shop area marked on the floor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
·        No horseplay in the shop.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
·        Don’t do anything distracting to yourself or others while operating machinery. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
·        Do not wear any loose clothing, jewelry, or lanyards. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
·        No hats or open toed shoes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
·        Hair will not extend below the collar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
·        Do not wear gloves while operating powered machinery.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
·        Food or drink is allowed when not operating machinery and it is kept a safe distance away from the machines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
·        Do not attempt to operate machinery in the shop that you have not been certified on by GFU engineering personnel. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
·        Do not argue with volunteers or shop staff. Contact Justin Johnson if you have issues that need to be resolved.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
·        Do not operate machinery without a shop supervisor or trained volunteer in the shop with you. Never operate equipment alone in the shop.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
·        Reset the space. Make the area you are working in ready for the next person using the dust broom and vacuum cleaner.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
·        The first aid kit is located in the machine shop, next to the Wood Shop doors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
·        If you see a safety violation inform the person immediately and encourage them to comply with the policies&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
·        Don’t do anything that would require an additional rule to be added to this list.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 2. Reset the Space ===&lt;br /&gt;
The Machine Shop has a specific organization to it. Put whatever you use back where it belongs. There is a place for everything and everything has a place. This rule applies to everything in the space. If you use a tool, put it back. If you use a pen, put it back. Throw away your trash and recycling. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now, we understand that sometimes you need to leave projects out. Maybe you are in the middle of a large project and you need something left overnight. In cases like this, it is okay, but you NEED to make prior arrangements  with Nick or Justin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please put back the Machinery the way you found it. Clean up chips and any messes you make. NEVER use shop air to clean off the machines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always put any unused materials back on the storage shelf, and put small pieces in the scrap box.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always leave the space better than you found it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 3. Be Professional ===&lt;br /&gt;
This commandment has two sides to it. It covers the idea of acting like professional (which Webster’s defines as “exhibiting a courteous, conscientious, and generally businesslike manner in the workplace”). The term also describes the standards of education and training that prepare members of the profession with the particular knowledge and skills necessary to perform their specific role within that profession. Hopefully, you are learning both of these as part of your education at George Fox University. In the Welding Lab we expect you to develop as a courteous, conscientious, and skilled craftsman, understanding the tools and equipment in the Maker Hub and how to use them effectively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Being a professional has some obvious ramifications in terms of behavior. First, be Christlike. Think of others better than yourselves. Share. If you have been welding  for a prolonged time and someone else is waiting for the machine, let them use the machine for a while. This is being a professional.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are learning to how to use a machine, and you can't something to work the way you want - ASK SOMEONE! Learn! Become a professional. Learn the craft. This is an educational space. You might think it will be quick and you can just get it done “your” way and not learn how to do it correctly. Be a Professional and learn the proper way, and then be available to teach others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One very important, and likely difficult part of being a professional is to correct others when they are not being professional. It is your responsibility to speak up when you see somebody doing something inappropriate. If you see somebody doing something unsafe, not resetting the space, or being unprofessional, the professional thing to do is to remind them of the three commandments and ask them politely to correct their action. This is OUR space, not any individual's. As a group, we expect everyone in the space to keep the space safe, clean, and operable for everyone. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If someone acts disgracefully unprofessional to you in the Machine Shop, you are welcome to bring the issue to Justin or Nick's attention.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General Machine Shop Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
Machining is the process of removing material so it is subtractive manufacturing. We have a variety of machines in the shop. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 3 main processes include milling, turning, and drilling.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Each machine has its own special purpose and benefits.  The drill press will produce holes quickly but normally has less precision than using a milling machine.  The lathe is normally used for making round parts and drilling.  The metal laser is good for making fast precise cuts in sheet metal. The waterjet can cut steel up to 1&amp;quot; thick but it takes a long time to cut thick materials. The finger brake allows you to make bends in sheet metal.  The shear is good for cutting straight lines in thin sheet metal or making smaller pieces.  &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Here are a few good steps to being successful in the Machine Shop.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure your workpiece is held securely before making cuts. &lt;br /&gt;
* Metal can be hot and sharp so always be careful when picking up material pieces. &lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you you have been properly trained before attempting to use a machine. &lt;br /&gt;
* Keep hands away from moving parts on machines.&lt;br /&gt;
* Always ask if you have questions on how to do something. &lt;br /&gt;
Here are a couple things to keep in mind:&lt;br /&gt;
* Material can be very hot after machining.&lt;br /&gt;
* Machining can produce very sharp edges.&lt;br /&gt;
* Never try to operate machinery when you are tired. &lt;br /&gt;
* Never work in the shop with loose clothing or items that could get pulled into a machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Canvas Certification ==&lt;br /&gt;
Before working with any of the equipment in the Machine Shop you will need to take the [https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1252 general lab quiz] as well as the specific quiz for each machine you are trying to use. The enrollment code for all of the quizzes is MakerHub.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;!--&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::True]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Machine Shop]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=gallery&lt;br /&gt;
 |imageproperty=Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Through_Hole_Press&amp;diff=9035</id>
		<title>Through Hole Press</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Through_Hole_Press&amp;diff=9035"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T17:19:03Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;[[File:...PressyBoi.png|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=PCB Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File: Through_hole_pressIcon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Through Hole Press Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:image_pending.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:through_hole_press_image.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=The Favorit Through Hole Press&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1293&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has group=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Bungard&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=PL-FAVORIT&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=2018-2231&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}} &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Through Hole Press is a hand-operated through hole plating machine using rivets. A rivet is a component used to easily connect traces that are transitioning between the top and bottom layers of a PCB. As a whole, it is known as a via. Specifically, it is a small hollow copper tube that can be inserted on one side of the board, then - using a specialized rivet tool like the Through Hole Press - the rivets are pressed and deformed to connect both sides. There are other methods that carry out the same function, but using rivets is the fastest and most consistent method.  {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ywfjknf6Vtg}}{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nz1TcfEnw-o}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Pcb-trace-geometry-2.png|Trace&lt;br /&gt;
File:...via.png|Via&lt;br /&gt;
File:...rivet.png|Rivet&lt;br /&gt;
File:...rubberMallet.png|Rubber Mallet&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.bungard.de/index.php/en/products/through-hole-plating-line/through-hole-plating Product Home Page]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.bungard.de/images/downloads/favorit_manual_e.pdf Favorit Through Hole Press User Manual]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:Through hole press instructions and size chart.pdf|Instructions and Size Chart]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rivets are used to connect traces on the top and bottom layers of a PCB. Traces are paths of conductive ink that connect components. Rivets can be pressed using either the Through Hole Press or a rubber mallet. Each method has its perks, so students will learn both methods.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To show a complete knowledge of the press, the student will press 2 rivets by using a rubber mallet and 2 rivets using the press. A test PCB with many holes of different sizes will be provided and reused among students.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Hole Sizing&lt;br /&gt;
##Before pressing a rivet, you need to make sure you design the holes so that they fit well. For a rivet to fit nicely in a hole, the hole diameter needs to be 0.1 mm (3.9 mils) larger than the rivet outer diameter. Use the table below to see what types of rivets Voltera offers. Also, refer to the chart below to assure you have the right size rivet for the hole you are pressing it into.[[File:Through_hole_press_chart_snippet.PNG|none|thumb|500x500px]][[File:...rivetTable.png|none|thumb]]'''NOTE: Currently the tool for 0.4mm rivets is broken, so this size should not be used in designs. Use 0.6mm rivets instead.'''&lt;br /&gt;
##Additionally, these rivets are hollow, so these can also be used to secure headers on your PCB. When placing vias in your design program, ensure the right drill size is used so the PCB Printer leaves enough space when printing the ink.&lt;br /&gt;
#Using Through Hole Press&lt;br /&gt;
##Follow the instructions in the following video for setting up the correct tool set for your rivet.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWoPXiklzl0}}&lt;br /&gt;
##You will need to place all the rivets into the board. Some like to use their fingers, some like to use tweezers, it is up to you. Pinching the rivets on the side is the easiest way to go, as shown in the picture below.[[File:...rivetPlacing.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
##The through hole press pretty much just flattens down the other side on the rivet. Once all rivets have been placed, you will need to turn it upside down while keeping the rivets snug inside the hole in order to flatten the other side. Find a flat unused PCB, place it over the rivets, and turn it upside down to keep them from falling out. Using some tape to keep the plate stable on the board is something to try if things are not quite going your way.[[File:...rivetFlip.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
##Before pressing the rivets, you need to make sure you have the right tool inserted into the upper and lower parts of the press. These tools can be found in the drawer in front of the press. The tool you choose should have the same inside diameter of the rivet you want to press.&lt;br /&gt;
##Now it is time to press the rivets. Place the board over the pin of the lower tool and fit a rivet over the pin as far as possible. To flatten the other side of the rivet, press the lever until it reaches the stop pin, then release. [[File:...rivetPress.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
##Your rivet should change somewhat like this. Pressing the rivet too hard can cause it to crack and damage the traces on the board, yet pressing the rivet too softly will to a poor job because it will not make a firm connection with the traces. It should be hit just hard enough to deform the rivet to make a firm connection with the traces. With practice, you'll learn the right amount of pressure to apply.  [[File:...rivetBeforeAfter.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
#Using the Rubber Mallet&lt;br /&gt;
##Rivets can also be pressed using a rubber mallet! The setup for the through hole press apply here as well. This method is faster than the Through Hole Press, but it is not as consistent.&lt;br /&gt;
##You will need to place all the rivets into the board. Some like to use their fingers, some like to use tweezers, it is up to you. Pinching the rivets on the side is the easiest way to go, as shown in the picture below.[[File:...rivetPlacing.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
##The through hole press pretty much just flattens down the other side on the rivet. Once all rivets have been placed, you will need to turn it upside down while keeping the rivets snug inside the hole in order to flatten the other side. Find a flat unused PCB, place it over the rivets, and turn it upside down to keep them from falling out. Using some tape to keep the unused PCB stable on the board is something to try if things are not quite going your way. [[File:...rivetFlip.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
##Using the rubber mallet and the rivet tool, you can press the rivet as shown in the picture below. Place the tip of the tool inside the rivet in an upright position, then hit the top of the tool with the mallet. The rivet tool can be found in the drawers in front of the PCB Printers.[[File:...rubberMalletPress.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
##Your rivet should change somewhat like this. Pressing the rivet too hard can cause it to crack and damage the traces on the board, yet pressing the rivet too softly will to a poor job because it will not make a firm connection with the traces. It should be hit just hard enough to deform the rivet to make a firm connection with the traces. With practice, you'll learn the right amount of pressure to apply. Come stop by![[File:...rivetBeforeAfter.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
There is not much that can hurt you while using the machine or the rubber mallet. Do not put any part of yourself under the through hole press, because it will try to punch a hole in you. The same idea goes with the mallet and the '''rivet''' tool. Do not swing it or do any dumb stuff. This should not have to be said, but people are dumb sometimes. Please do not be that person.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As for the through hole press and its tools, there any many things that could damage it. Especially tools for small rivet diameter (0.4 and 0.6 mm) are sensitive and require careful handling. The tip of the upper tool and springloaded pin of the bottom tool '''should be guarded against damage.'''  Avoid any excessive pressure on both parts! For transport reasons the tip of the lower tool may be hidden inside of the tool body. If so, carefully turn in the headless screw, until the tip shows up again, but still can be pushed into the body again.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1293 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
If a rivet is not connecting the top and bottom layer traces, it is probably not pressed well, meaning it is not making good contact with the trace on both layers. A well placed rivet gives a good connection that is resistant to bending and twisting. In order to obtain a good long-term stability, we recommend that you apply our SUR-TIN immersion tin. This will help to prevent corrosion at the transition layer of the rivet and the copper clad (and will increase solderability). If you place component leads in the rivet holes and solder them from one side only, you should avoid thermal stress to the rivet. Certainly if solder passes the rivet it can cause the rivet to grow under the heat so that the rivet becomes loose. In such case, you should solder fix both rivet collars to the pads before inserting component leads.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is little to no maintenance to be done on this machine. Just be sure to reset the space, put away any rivets, tools, and PCBs that you have used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|General Cleaning&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and After each use, put away any rivets, tools, and PCBs that you have used&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Soldering_Irons&amp;diff=9034</id>
		<title>Soldering Irons</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Soldering_Irons&amp;diff=9034"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T17:16:54Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=PCB Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has function=Soldering Iron&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:soldering_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Soldering Iron&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:soldering.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Soldering a component&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=Soldering is a process in which two or more items (usually metal) are joined together by melting and putting a filler metal (solder) into the joint&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1242&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Weller&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=WES51&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has group=Circuit Board Design&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Soldering''' is a process in which two or more items (usually metal) are joined together by melting and putting a filler metal (solder) into the joint, the filler metal having a lower melting point than the adjoining metal. Soldering differs from welding in that soldering does not involve melting the work pieces. In brazing, the filler metal melts at a higher temperature, but the work piece metal does not melt. In the past, nearly all solders contained lead, but environmental and health concerns have increasingly dictated use of lead-free solder for electronics and plumbing purposes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert video media here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:SolderingTips.jpg|Soldering Tip&lt;br /&gt;
File:Solder.jpg|Solder&lt;br /&gt;
File:Flux.jpg|Flux&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
User Manual&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Soldering Iron is an amazing tool that allows us to construct circuits with sturdy connections between components. The detailed steps to do this can be found in videos on the Description section. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before using a Soldering Station, students will need to read some documentation, watch some videos, and pass a quiz on Canvas. Upon completion, students will be given the following PCB and components to assemble the circuit below. Upon completion, they will have the PCB Lab volunteers assess their work and confirm operation. The deliverable will include a video of the working device and a crisp &amp;quot;Thumbs Up&amp;quot; from the PCB Lab Volunteer to assure that the student successfully completed the task.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:blinkypcb.jpg|[[Media:Blinky.zip|PCB]]&lt;br /&gt;
File:ne555.png|[https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/texas-instruments/NE555P/296-1411-5-ND/277057 555 timer]&lt;br /&gt;
File:res1k.jpg|[https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/stackpole-electronics-inc/CF14JT1K00/CF14JT1K00CT-ND/1830350 1 K&amp;lt;span title=&amp;quot;&amp;amp;amp;Omega;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;amp;Omega;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; resistor]&lt;br /&gt;
File:res470k.jpg|[https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/stackpole-electronics-inc/CF14JT470K/CF14JT470KCT-ND/1830415 470 K&amp;lt;span title=&amp;quot;&amp;amp;amp;Omega;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;amp;Omega;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; resistor]&lt;br /&gt;
File:cap1uF.jpg|[https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/UVP1H010MDD1TD/493-12697-1-ND/4328314?utm_campaign=buynow&amp;amp;WT.z_cid=ref_octopart_dkc_buynow&amp;amp;utm_medium=aggregator&amp;amp;curr=usd&amp;amp;site=us&amp;amp;utm_source=octopart 1 &amp;lt;span title=&amp;quot;&amp;amp;amp;mu;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&amp;amp;mu;&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;F capacitor]&lt;br /&gt;
File:red_led.jpg|[https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/lite-on-inc/LTL-4223/160-1127-ND/200395 red LED]&lt;br /&gt;
File:battcon.jpg|[https://www.xump.com/science/9V-Battery-Snap-Connector-Leads.cfm?SID=12&amp;amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMI04mUoZaF2QIVAm5-Ch0pDgDrEAQYAiABEgKI1_D_BwE 9V Battery connector]&lt;br /&gt;
File:Blinking LED Circuit.gif|Completed PCB&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Soldering_course_circuit.jpg|none|thumb|583x583px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
# First things first, you need to learn how to use the soldering irons! Soldering is not difficult, but understanding some basic concepts will go a long way toward a successful experience. As part of your training, you will need to read some documentation and watch some videos.&lt;br /&gt;
# After scouring the web for examples of soldering training, we really liked the lessons captured in the [https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837 PACE] series, despite the fact that they were filmed in the 80's. These videos are well produced (for something possibly older than your parents) and have a lot of good information. The quizzable information is in the very first, fifth, and sixth videos, but the other videos have great examples of good and bad soldering joints. Another more modern video from [https://www.beautyandthebolt Beauty and the Bolt] is also insightful. TThis video is a little more modern, and a good resource, but not as technically interesting. It talks a bit about desoldering as well as soldering wires together and how to use heat shrink and electrical tape. A more modern series is available from [https://www.howcast.com/guides/930-how-to-solder Howcast]. It wouldn't hurt at all to watch this series, but we will just focus on a couple for the quiz. Finally, there is an official training video from the [[Maker Hub]] that is tailored to our specific space and equipment. This video will give you the information you need to perform the live solder demonstration required for your soldering certification.&lt;br /&gt;
# This nostalgic set of [https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837 videos] from PACE are quite old, but surprisingly still quite relevant. The style makes you think that you will be getting ready to watch an old Disney cartoon - you aren't. Don't get disappointed.&lt;br /&gt;
# '''Basic Soldering Lesson 1:''' This is by far the longest of the videos at (20:44), but also packed with the most pertinent information. It provides great background on solder, flux, wetting, and then mechanics of the iron and the joint. We do not have the student handbook that is mentioned. We suspect that you can manage without that. Here are some key ideas that you should watch for:&lt;br /&gt;
## What is solder? What temperatures do the different solders melt at?&lt;br /&gt;
## What is flux?&lt;br /&gt;
## What is wetting?&lt;br /&gt;
## What are the different aspects of a soldering iron?{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIT4ra6Mo0s}}&lt;br /&gt;
# '''Basic Soldering Lesson 2-5:''' These videos are worth watching, but they are not essential for this training.&lt;br /&gt;
## [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mrhg5A1a1mU&amp;amp;index=2&amp;amp;list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837&amp;amp;t=0s Basic Soldering Lesson 2] - &amp;quot;Soldering To PCB Terminals&amp;quot; (6:50)&lt;br /&gt;
## [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GLeCt_u3U8&amp;amp;index=3&amp;amp;list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837&amp;amp;t=0s Basic Soldering Lesson 3] - &amp;quot;Cup Terminals&amp;quot; (4:19)&lt;br /&gt;
## [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hvTiql-ED4A&amp;amp;index=4&amp;amp;list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837&amp;amp;t=0s Basic Soldering Lesson 4] - &amp;quot;Bifurcated Terminals&amp;quot; (2:45)&lt;br /&gt;
## [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sN3V8hMiUb4&amp;amp;index=5&amp;amp;list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837&amp;amp;t=0s Basic Soldering Lesson 5] - &amp;quot;Hook and Pierced Terminals&amp;quot; (1:19)&lt;br /&gt;
# '''Basic Soldering Lesson 6:''' Good explanation of a &amp;quot;semi-clenched&amp;quot; method for soldering an axial-lead component. This technique allows the component to be held in place for soldering without any extra tape or glue (or a potentially burnt finger).{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AY5M-lGxvzo}}&lt;br /&gt;
# '''Basic Soldering Lesson 7:''' Applying the &amp;quot;clenching&amp;quot; idea to an IC. Typically, we will not use this technique, but will instead hold the part and &amp;quot;tack&amp;quot; these same leads with solder - just to hold it. The rest of the video has great examples of IC's being soldered.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgcPxdnjwt4}}&lt;br /&gt;
# '''Basic Soldering Lesson 8-9:''' We don't normally see too many of these any more, but again, nice examples of good joints that are similar to components we still use. Rather than flatpack or planar components, we generally use &amp;quot;surface-mount&amp;quot; now. But, the soldering part is still useful to watch. The techniques are similar. Our PCB's will generally come &amp;quot;pre-tined&amp;quot; and the component leads are already bent, but the rest of the soldering is the same.&lt;br /&gt;
## [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTv3gK9tAKA&amp;amp;index=8&amp;amp;list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837&amp;amp;t=0s Basic Soldering Lesson 8] - &amp;quot;Integrated Circuits&amp;quot; (1:16)&lt;br /&gt;
## [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nq5ngauITsw&amp;amp;index=9&amp;amp;list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837&amp;amp;t=0s Basic Soldering Lesson 9] - &amp;quot;Integrated Circuits: The Flatpack &amp;amp; Other Planar-mounted Components&amp;quot; (6:20)&lt;br /&gt;
# '''Howcast How to Solder:''' This set of [https://www.howcast.com/guides/930-how-to-solder videos] from Howcast is worth watching, but we will only highlight a couple of them here that talk about removing solder.&lt;br /&gt;
# '''How to Remove Solder'''{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-lnRf2biz50}}&lt;br /&gt;
# '''How to Remove Through-Hole Components'''{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zjQf0ajBYmM}}&lt;br /&gt;
# '''Maker Hub Video:''' This video contains specific information for soldering in the Maker Hub as well as a basic overview of what will be expected in your live demonstration.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v98_f7JFdo}}&lt;br /&gt;
# &lt;br /&gt;
# Acquire a soldering station. For this procedure, this particular station will be referenced, the Weller WES51.[[File:...solderingiron.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
# You can power it on using the switch on the left and control the temperature in °F using the temperature knob on the right. 650-750 °F is a good temperature range to keep it at. When the light is solid green, the iron is not heated up yet. When it is heated to the temperature you set on the temperature knob, it will start blinking green.&lt;br /&gt;
# Before you begin using the soldering iron, wet the sponge! Take it to a sink and drench that boi. This is used to clean the soldering iron continually during use. If you don't make it wet, it will burn up the sponge and smell/look gross, and it won't clean the soldering iron.&lt;br /&gt;
# Now you're ready to use the soldering iron! Refer to the videos in times of doubt. &lt;br /&gt;
# Don't forget to complete that video checking off your board!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
# Soldering Irons can get up to 1000 °F. This is really hot, so do not touch it. Any metal thing on the iron is hot. Be sure to hold the iron like a pencil, and ONLY hold it by the handle.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you get burnt, immediately place the burn under cold running cold water for a while. This keeps it from blistering.&lt;br /&gt;
# When not in use, turn off the soldering iron. There's no need to have it blistering hot when it is not being used.&lt;br /&gt;
# &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1242| Canvas Course]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
There are two things in particular that could keep you from successfully soldering: an untinned tip and a loose tip. If the tip is not shiny silver, then place a little solder on the tip and wipe it on the sponge. Some soldering irons allow there tips to be replaced for the sake of having different shapes. If the iron is not heating up and you are using this type of iron, it is possible that the tip is not inserted into the iron fully. To fix this, grab some pliers (so you don't burn your hands), grip the shaft and push it in fully. After you have finished soldering, you might check the electrical continuity of your solder joint with a [[Electronics Workstation | DVM]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The maintenance for the soldering iron generally consists of keeping the soldering station cleaned, stocked, and the iron tinned.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|General Cleaning&lt;br /&gt;
|After each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Tin Soldering Iron&lt;br /&gt;
|As needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Stock solder, solder wick, sponge&lt;br /&gt;
|As needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|}__TOC__&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Rework_Station&amp;diff=9032</id>
		<title>Rework Station</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Rework_Station&amp;diff=9032"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T16:49:18Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=PCB Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:Solder Rework Station.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Rework Station Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:image_pending.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Rework Station.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=The Rework Station&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1297&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has group=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Zephyrtronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=ZT-2, ZT-3, ZT-1-CLS-DPU, Hakko FR-301, Quick861DW&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Rework Station.jpg|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Solder Rework Station.png|left|110x110px|frameless]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Rework Station is essential for fixing what you messed up during the fabrication process. Consisting of an Air Bath, Air Pencil, and Air Pick, the Rework Station allows you heat up a specific area of the PCB and make modifications, whether that means adding/removing some solder on the pads, rotating a component, or completely replacing a component. Other tools are available for similar purposes, such as a desoldering gun, and an additional heat gun for larger components. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_yFDpSTfao}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:...airBath.jpg|Air Bath (ZT-1-CLS-DPU)&lt;br /&gt;
File:...airPencil.jpg|Air Pencil (ZT-2)&lt;br /&gt;
File:...airPick.jpg|Air Pick (ZT-3)&lt;br /&gt;
File:...desolderingGun.jpg|Desoldering Gun (Hakko FR-301)&lt;br /&gt;
File:...heatGun.jpg|Heat Gun (Quick861DW)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.zeph.com/smdpreheater.htm Zephyrtronics Airbath]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.zeph.com/pencil.html Zephyrtronics Airpencil]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.zeph.com/zt3web.htm Zephyrtronics Airpick]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fr301.html Hakko FR-301]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.quick-global.com/2-lead-free-rework-2.html Quick-861DW]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Airbath can heat up to 205 °C, which can be enough to melt the solder on a PCB. Some solder melts at even higher temperatures than this, which can be achieved using the Air Pencil and/or Heat Gun. Essentially, the Air Bath heats up the board and the Air Pencil finishes the job by heating up the part of the board that we want to fix (because we don't want to melt the solder on the parts that are already good to go). This is where the Air Pick and tweezers come in. After heating up the part we want to fix, the tweezers are used to remove a component while the Air Pick uses a vacuum to place a component on the board. If the component is too small, using tweezers to pick up the component is also a good alternative.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To show a complete knowledge of the Air Bath, Air Pencil, Air Pick, Desoldering Gun, and Heat Gun, the student will have a PCB prepared and perform tasks with the station as a whole. Using the Air Bath, Air Pencil, and Air Pick, students will remove a SMD and solder it back on. Using the Desoldering Gun, students will remove a soldered through hole component. Using the Heat Gun, students will mount a larger SMD, solder it on, and then remove it. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
# Fixing/Replacing SMD Components&lt;br /&gt;
## Before turning on the Air Bath, clamp the PCB on the black stand, preferably placing it so that the component you want to fix is directly above the air. You should not be able to move the board once it is clamped. Keeping it sturdy helps from accidentally moving the PCB during the reworking process. &lt;br /&gt;
## The Air Bath has a power switch on the left, three buttons on the right, and a screen on the right. The switch has 3 positions which allows you to choose Cool, Off, and Warm by pressing it in their respective directions. The button on the right allow you to adjust the temperature in a rather funny way. The middle button has a down arrow while the right button has an up arrow, indicating which button decreases/increases the temperature of the bath. However, you need to hold down the left button while doing so. For instance, to increase the temperature, you would hold the left and right buttons at the same time.[[File:AirBathBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
## Now you will heat up the Air Bath. Hit the Power switch on the front, and set the temperature about 20-30 °C below the solder's melting point. The melting point for your solder can be found using the table below. Voltera's Solder Paste (Orange) melts at lower temperatures than the Sn63Pb37 Solder Paste (Blue). If the Voltera Solder Paste says T4 at the top, heat the Air Bath to 180 °C. If the Voltera Solder Paste says T5 at the top, heat the Air Bath to 150 °C. If you are using the Sn63Pb37 Solder Paste, heat the Air Bath to 150 °C. [[File:...meltingPointTable.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
## Once the board is heated, you can use the Air Pencil to heat up a specific component. The pencil blows hot air out the end. When you turn it on, adjust the settings to be 3/4 of the heat capacity and about 1/3 of the air flow. We do this because when the air flow is maximized at full temperature, it does not get hot enough to melt the solder. Too much air flow is bad. &lt;br /&gt;
## Hold the tip of the pencil over the SMD you want to solder/desolder, and move it slightly around the leads to allow for more distribution of heat. If it is not heating it up, try turning the heat of the pencil higher. This should allow for your SMD components solder to melt, and you will be able to pick up the component up with a pair of static-safe tweezers or the Air Pick. If you are soldering a part on, make sure to generously apply flux to the pads, and make sure all the solder sticks to the pads after heating. &lt;br /&gt;
## If the pencil is not doing a good enough job to heat up the component, then you may graduate to using the  bigger heat gun, the Quick861DW. The same theoretical concepts apply, however, one potential downside of this is that it affects a larger area than the pencil. You may unintentionally melt the solder of components that you don't want to melt, so be extra careful my dudes. &lt;br /&gt;
## The Air Pick uses a vacuum to pick up and place components. Typically you would use both hands for this; one hand heats up the component with the pencil and the other grabs the component with the pick.  &lt;br /&gt;
## On the handle of the pick there is a divot that is connected to the vacuum. When you plug the divot with your finger, it will enable it to pick up a component. When you release your finger from the divot, it will let go of the component. There are different tips that you will place on the end of the tip based on the component you want to pick up, each having a different size for varying components. &lt;br /&gt;
# Desoldering Through Hole Components&lt;br /&gt;
## For desoldering through hole components, you will want to use the Desoldering Gun. It has a hot tip that can fit over a solder joint and utilizes a vacuum when the trigger is pulled. As a result, it melts the solder and sucks it into a cartridge, completely removing the joint.&lt;br /&gt;
## Before using the Desoldering Gun, make sure you have the little metal stand for the gun to sit on for safety purposes. Have Solder ready nearby to tin the tip before use, and clean the tip after tinning using the wire mesh.&lt;br /&gt;
## On the handle of the gun there is a temperature control wheel that ranges from 1-4 (coolest to hottest). Be sure to set it to the correct temperature using the graphic below. Typically, a through hole component would require you to set the scale to 2.[[File:...SolderingGun.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
## To use the Desoldering Gun, briefly put the top over a solder joint (not completely on the PCB or you might damage it), press the trigger to enable the vacuum, and the solder should be sucked away!&lt;br /&gt;
## Tin the tip before cooldown, and take note that the cooldown may take a bit of time. Don't burn yourself!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
The most important thing about all these machines: THEY GET REALLY HOT!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Be so so careful because these machines can get up to temperatures of potentially 700°F. Always be wary of where you are blowing the hot air with the air guns, so you don’t melt other things. Be wary of how hot your PCB can get, and always put the cooling setting on after you’re finished with the Air Bath before picking your PCB up, because you can burn yourself.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1297 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
# Suppose the solder isn't melting. Consult the temperature table in the General Procedure, chances are that you just need to make it hotter, little by little. &lt;br /&gt;
# Suppose the Air Pick is not picking up the component. Use the appropriate tip and make sure you are plugging the little divot to enable it to pick up. If these aren't working, resort to using tweezers.&lt;br /&gt;
# Suppose the components are getting blown away from the pads you want it to sit on. Well, turn down the air my dude.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Wrap all cords and make them look tidy. Make sure all devices are turned off and returned to their original place. Do not leave tweezers or extra parts laying around, put them back in the accessories drawer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|General Cleaning&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after every use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Tinning tip of Desoldeirng Gun&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after every use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Reflow_Oven&amp;diff=9030</id>
		<title>Reflow Oven</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Reflow_Oven&amp;diff=9030"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T16:47:47Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=PCB Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:reflow_oven_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Reflow Oven Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:protoflow.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Protoflow Reflow Oven&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1297&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=LPKF&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=ProtoFlow S N2&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=0Z2701N343&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has group=Circuit Board Design&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=David Mishchenko;dmishchenko16@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Reflow oven icon.png|left|140x140px|frameless]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:....theOven.jpg|thumb|400x400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Reflow Oven (ProtoFlow S N2) is LPKF's premiere convection oven, ideal for lead-free reflow soldering, meeting the stringent demands of rapid PCB soldering applications. The Reflow Oven features even heat distribution, easy programming, and many pre-defined temperature profiles. The compact design and efficient power consumption make it one of the most useful components in any rapid PCB prototyping environment.  {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zsvn2-WkZLk}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:bake_ink_selection.jpg|LCD Dispay&lt;br /&gt;
File:bake_go.jpg|Tray&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.lpkfusa.com/products/pcb_prototyping/smt_assembling/protoflow_s/ Product Home Page]&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:protoflow_datasheet.pdf|Datasheet]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Reflow Oven bakes PCBs to harden the traces and pads where components are laid. It's just like your oven at home with a few extra accessories, like preset profiles that adjust the temperature and time based on the ink/paste you put on your board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To show a complete knowledge of the oven, the student will have a PCB prepared by the PCB Printer and follow the instructions in the General Procedure.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
# Power the Reflow Oven on by pressing the power button on the front.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the respective ink/paste on the LCD Display. Different inks and pastes have different heat cycles, so it is important that you choose the right one. You can scroll through the options using the Up and Down keys. The Left key goes back, and the Right key selects. In this specific instance, V1 Ink is selected. Recall that each dispenser is assigned to a color. Green is V1 Ink, Orange is V1 Paste, and Blue is Sn63Pb37.[[File:bake_ink_selection.jpg|300x300px|none|link=https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/File:Bake_ink_selection.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
# The oven will warm up. When its ready, select &amp;quot;Enter&amp;quot; to open the tray.&lt;br /&gt;
# '''DANGER: The rails could be HOT! Take caution.''' Place the board securely on the rails.[[File:bake_place.jpg|300x300px|none|link=https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/File:Bake_place.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
# Select &amp;quot;Enter&amp;quot; to close the tray.&lt;br /&gt;
# The preheat will take 2 minutes. The baking process takes about 30 minutes for traces and 3 minutes for the paste.&lt;br /&gt;
# The tray will automatically open to initiate the cool down phase. At the end of this process, the traces and pads will harden. '''DO NOT remove the board until the oven says all the stages are complete. DANGER: The rails are HOT!'''&lt;br /&gt;
# When cool down is complete, remove the board from the oven, and turn off the oven. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
# Always follow the instructions on the LCD Display. It is your guide that keeps you safe.&lt;br /&gt;
# When the tray opens up after baking a board, be patient and let the board cool down. If you handle it while it is too hot, it can burn you and shift your components (not good).&lt;br /&gt;
# Once you are finished using the Reflow Oven, clean the inside and turn it off. '''RESET THE SPACE'''.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you do not want to risk being burnt by the rails when you place your board in the oven, open the tray and place your board '''BEFORE''' beginning the baking process.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you do get burnt, immediately place the burn under cold running cold water for a while. There is a sink to the right of the oven to help you out. This keeps it from blistering.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1297 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
There are little to no issues to run into while using the oven. The most common issue is failure to select the correct profile, which results in non-hardened traces and pads. Remember, Green is V1 Ink, Orange is V1 Paste, and blue is SN63Pb37. If this happens, simply bake the board again using the correct profile. In the event that something happens out of the ordinary, follow the table below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:...ovenTroubleshooting.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The oven should always be clean. Make sure it is clean before and after use. If something is not working and needs to be fixed, refer to the table above in the Troubleshooting section.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
Refer to the table in the Troubleshooting section for advanced solutions.&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Remove Debris&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br \&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br \&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br \&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br \&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br \&amp;gt;&amp;lt;references /&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=PCB_Lab&amp;diff=9029</id>
		<title>PCB Lab</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=PCB_Lab&amp;diff=9029"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T16:47:04Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
  |Is facility = True&lt;br /&gt;
  |Has ace=Matthew Martin;mmartin18@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
  |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1288&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:pcb_lab.jpeg|300px|thumb|The PCB Lab]] The Printed Circuit Board lab contains an electronics station (as in the Hub) with the Metcal soldering station and microscope. It also contains a Voltera V-One PCB Printer (which can print Gerber files onto a board, and can also print solder paste onto normally fabricated boards), a manual Pick-and-Place machine, a Reflow Oven, and a Reflow Station.  The lab is stocked with a good supply of 0603 and 0805 surface mount components.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name|+index=0 }}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Schedule=&lt;br /&gt;
View the most up-to-date PCB Lab schedule [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1M91j-_Qfp9NXlvt4ZF8QRQ2Hq3x50QioqZylHDnSZmc/edit?usp=sharing on this Google Sheet.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Equipment Overview =&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::true]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::PCB Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has make=Company&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has model=Model |+width=10em&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has ace.Has name=Current Ace&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has ace.Has email address=Current Email &lt;br /&gt;
 |format=broadtable&lt;br /&gt;
 |mainlabel=Name&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Equipment by Icon==&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::True]][[Has icon::+]] [[Is located in facility::PCB Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has icon=Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Is located in facility&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=plainlist&lt;br /&gt;
 |template=EquipmentIconGallery&lt;br /&gt;
 |outrotemplate=EquipmentIconGalleryOutro&lt;br /&gt;
 |limit=100&lt;br /&gt;
 |link=none&lt;br /&gt;
 |sort=Is located in facility&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Basic Tools=&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PTP750W_front.png|thumb|150px]] The PCB Lab has a Brother PT-Touch P750W [https://www.brother-usa.com/products/PTP750W Brother PT-Touch P750W] label maker for labeling items. To use it: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Download the [https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/brother-iprint-label/id523047493?mt=8 iOS App] or the [https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.brother.ptouch.iprintandlabel&amp;amp;hl=en_US Android App].&lt;br /&gt;
# Ensure the label maker is powered on.&lt;br /&gt;
# Within the app, select the gear to open settings.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select &amp;quot;Printer.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
# Select &amp;quot;Set Manually.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
# Enter the IP Address 10.90.12.19.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select &amp;quot;Connect.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
# Select &amp;quot;Check Media.&amp;quot; This will get the correct size of the tape that is currently in the label maker. You should click this button often, especially when you change the tape in the label maker or start a new session of label printing.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select &amp;quot;Done&amp;quot; at the top right.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can now print labels for labeling things in the PCB Lab.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=3 commandments=&lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Safety First ===&lt;br /&gt;
Safety First is the rule we hold highest of the three. This rule applies to both the safety of you as well as others  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keeping yourself and others safe in the PCB Lab is very important, as there are possibilities for accidents if you don't follow the safety guidelines.  Safety starts with you so don't depend on others to keep you safe.  There is a first aid kit located on the south wall near the Wood Shop door.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt; The following rules must be followed at all times.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All the same safety rules from the machine shop apply:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Safety glasses must be worn when soldering or running Volter printers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* No horseplay in the PCB Lab.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Don’t do anything distracting to yourself or others while operating equipment.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Food or drink is allowed when not operating equipment. Wash your hands after soldering or working with solder paste and chemicals. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not attempt to operate machinery in the PCB Lab that you have not been certified on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not argue with volunteers or shop staff. Contact Justin Johnson if you have issues that need to be resolved.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not operate equipment without a lab supervisor or trained volunteer in the lab with you. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Reset the space. Make the area you are working in ready for the next person.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* If you see a safety violation inform the person immediately and encourage them to comply with the policies&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Don’t do anything that would require an additional rule to be added to this list.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 2. Reset the Space ===&lt;br /&gt;
The PCB Lab has a specific organization to it. Put whatever you use back where it belongs. There is a place for everything and everything has a place. This rule applies to everything in the space. If you use a tool, put it back. If you use a pen, put it back. Throw away your trash and recycling. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Please put back the equipment the way you found it. Clean up solder and any spills or messes you make. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Always put any unused materials back.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Always leave the space better than you found it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 3. Be Professional ===&lt;br /&gt;
This commandment has two sides to it. It covers the idea of acting like professional (which Webster’s defines as “exhibiting a courteous, conscientious, and generally businesslike manner in the workplace”). The term also describes the standards of education and training that prepare members of the profession with the particular knowledge and skills necessary to perform their specific role within that profession. Hopefully, you are learning both of these as part of your education at George Fox University. In the PCB Lab we expect you to develop as a courteous, conscientious, and skilled craftsman, understanding the tools and equipment in the Maker Hub and how to use them effectively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Being a professional has some obvious ramifications in terms of behavior. First, be Christlike. Think of others better than yourselves. Share. If you have been using a machine for a prolonged time and someone else is waiting, let them use the machine for a while. This is being a professional.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are learning to how to use a machine, and you can't get something to work the way you want - ASK SOMEONE! Learn! Become a professional. Learn the craft. This is an educational space. You might think it will be quick and you can just get it done “your” way and not learn how to do it correctly. Be a Professional and learn the proper way, and then be available to teach others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One very important, and likely difficult part of being a professional is to correct others when they are not being professional. It is your responsibility to speak up when you see somebody doing something inappropriate. If you see somebody doing something unsafe, not resetting the space, or being unprofessional, the professional thing to do is to remind them of the three commandments and ask them politely to correct their action. This is OUR space, not any individual's. As a group, we expect everyone in the space to keep the space safe, clean, and operable for everyone. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If someone acts disgracefully unprofessional to you in the PCB Lab, you are welcome to bring the issue to Justin or Nick's attention.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General PCB Lab Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
Making/repairing circuits can be rewarding and fun as well as time consuming. One of the most used machines in the PCB Lab soldering iron. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the PCB Lab, circuits are built and repaired using a variety of prototyping equipment.    &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The equipment in the PCB Lab has its own special purpose and benefits. The pick n place allows you to quickly place surface mount components. Voltera printers use conductive ink to print out the traces for producing a circuit board. The curing oven quickly heats the paste on a circuit board and bonds the surface mount components to the circuit pads. &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
These are a few steps that will help you be successful in the PCB Lab.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Always double check your circuit designs prior to attempting to print. If you can have a second set of eyes look for any issues that is always a good idea.    &lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure the components you are using can handle the current required. &lt;br /&gt;
* Ask someone knowledgeable if you have questions.&lt;br /&gt;
* Double check the installation direction of your components prior to installation. &lt;br /&gt;
Here are a couple things to keep in mind:&lt;br /&gt;
* Most of the solder in the PCB lab contains lead. Wash your hands after soldering. &lt;br /&gt;
* Use the fume extractors when soldering to prevent inhaling fumes.&lt;br /&gt;
* Be aware of what your fingers are touching when soldering or working with hot equipment. &lt;br /&gt;
* Be aware of people and what they are doing around you. Keep track of where your soldering iron is pointing and touching.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Be aware of what is on the floor around you. Don't trip on any cords or other students stuff.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Wear safety glasses when soldering or working with the drilling head on the Voltera. &lt;br /&gt;
* If something feels like it could be dangerous ask a supervisor before attempting.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Canvas Certification ==&lt;br /&gt;
Before working with any of the equipment in the PCB Lab you will need to take the [https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1288 general lab quiz] as well as the specific quiz for each machine you are trying to use. The enrollment code for all of the quizzes is MakerHub.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Inventory ==&lt;br /&gt;
Click this link to be directed to the [https://makerhub-internal.georgefox.edu/wiki/{{PAGENAMEE}} internal site] for inventory.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Voltera Maintenance ==&lt;br /&gt;
Click this link to be directed to the [https://makerhub-internal.georgefox.edu/wiki/{{PAGENAMEE}} internal site] for Maintenance.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Pick_and_Place&amp;diff=9027</id>
		<title>Pick and Place</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Pick_and_Place&amp;diff=9027"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T16:46:11Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=true&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=PCB Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:Pick &amp;amp; place icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Pick and Place icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Pick_&amp;amp;_place.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Pick and Place Machine&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1294&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=LPKF&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Protoplace S&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=0Z2701L006&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}} &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pick &amp;amp; Place (Protoplace S) is a semi-automatic pick &amp;amp; place system for the professional assembly of Surface Mount Technology (SMT) printed circuit board prototypes and small batch projects. It is capable of dispensing solder paste, glues, and adhesives, but we typically use it just for placing minuscule components on PCBs. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=maV2KG8O29A}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
# Micro-Table&lt;br /&gt;
## This clamps PCBs as large as 297mm x 420mm (11.8” x 16.5”). Knobs at the front of the micro-table allow for fine adjustments along the X and Y axes, which are ideal for the placement of complex components.&lt;br /&gt;
# Manipulator&lt;br /&gt;
## The manipulator is what picks &amp;amp; places components. It is also capable of dispensing solder paste, glues, and adhesives with the dispenser attachment, however, we will not use these features. The manipulator can reach everywhere on the micro-table that will be needed for projects, including the turntable. The manipulator uses the vacuum and appropriate needle attachment in order to pick &amp;amp; place components.&lt;br /&gt;
# Manipulator Knob&lt;br /&gt;
## The knob above the box on the manipulator rotates the nozzle; so it rotates components sucked on the knob.&lt;br /&gt;
# Turntable&lt;br /&gt;
## The turntable is what houses the components used in the project. The turntable can be controlled using the keyboard and LCD display.&lt;br /&gt;
# Micro Camera and Monitor&lt;br /&gt;
## The micro camera captures the end of the nozzle so that you can view (on the monitor) an accurate representation of where the component will be placed.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Pick And Place.png|none|thumb|500x500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.lpkfusa.com/datasheets/prototyping/ProtoPlace%20S%20Specifications%20'16.pdf Pick and Place Datasheet]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.tabe.ru/pdf/lpkf_protoplace_manual_(eng).pdf Pick and Place Manual]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Pick and Place organizes and helps place minuscule surface mount components by using a vacuum and a nozzle that is triggered by the amount of pressure applied to the nozzle (pushing down on a component). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To show a complete knowledge of the Pick and Place, the Student will have a PCB Prepared by the PCB Printer and follow the instructions in the General Procedure.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
# Turn on the machine. The switch is located in the back left (if viewed from the front of the machine).&lt;br /&gt;
# Ensure that the correct vacuum tip is attached to the manipulator. If the tip is larger than the parts you are trying to pick up, then you need to change out the tip for something smaller. You can change tips for various sized components during the process.&lt;br /&gt;
## '''Do not use nozzles too large or the component will get sucked into the machine and the machine will get damaged.'''&lt;br /&gt;
# Place all of the parts needed for the project into their own sections on the turntable.&lt;br /&gt;
## It would be a good idea to have a separate section for each component for organization purposes (for yourself and others).&lt;br /&gt;
## Use a sticky note or labeling system of some sort for different components like resistor values.&lt;br /&gt;
## The turntable can be operated by selecting either Auto or Manual from the place menu, and then selecting Turntable. Press the left and right arrows to rotate clockwise and counter-clockwise.&lt;br /&gt;
# Turn on the monitor that will display the output of the micro camera. This will help you view your part while you are placing it on the pads.&lt;br /&gt;
# Clamp your board onto the microtable. You should not be able to move your board when it is secured.&lt;br /&gt;
# On the LCD, using the keyboard:&lt;br /&gt;
## Place -&amp;gt; auto/manual.&lt;br /&gt;
## Manual mode will only turn on the vacuum when sufficient pressure is applied to the nozzle (when you press the nozzle onto a component).&lt;br /&gt;
## Auto mode will always have the vacuum enabled.&lt;br /&gt;
# Let's assume we are in manual mode for the remainder of this procedure (easier because you can't accidentally pick up components). Move the manipulator to the desired component. Grab the component by pushing the nozzle down onto the surface of the component.&lt;br /&gt;
## '''Be sure that the component is not upside down!'''&lt;br /&gt;
# Move the manipulator and component to the position that the footprint is located (it doesn’t have to be exact yet). Using the keyboard and LCD screen, hit the Brake option on the right of the LCD screen. This locks the manipulator so you cannot move it like you normally do which makes it easy to place your components. &lt;br /&gt;
# You can use the fine knobs on the front of the pick and place to make precise movements as well as the camera to assure you are placing it correctly on the pads.&lt;br /&gt;
## A higher resolution view can be seen on the monitor that’s output from the micro camera.&lt;br /&gt;
# Using the keyboard and LCD screen, hit the Place option. It places the component straight down for you!&lt;br /&gt;
# Repeat this process until all components are placed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Upon completion, refer to the instructions on the Reflow Oven wiki. The solder has not been solidified yet, so be careful with your board so you do not move components. Remember to select the correct setting: V1 Paste if you are using Voltera's special Ink and Paste, and Sn63Pb37 for prefabricated PCBs.&lt;br /&gt;
# '''RESET THE SPACE!''' Remove any notes and clean up any lost components.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
There is almost nothing you can do on this device that will hurt you. If you place your hand under the nozzle and then smash down the nozzle, you will hurt yourself. Do not do this for obvious reasons.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
However, there are things that can hurt the Pick and Place. &lt;br /&gt;
# Be gentle with how you treat the nozzle; press down gently when picking and placing components.&lt;br /&gt;
# Be sure to use a smaller nozzle than the component you are trying to place! Failure to do this results in sucking up the component into the nozzle which can clog it and prevent the vacuum from being effectively used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1294 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
# There are two monitors above the pick and place machine. You’ll want to have your Altium Schematic on one and the altium PCBDoc opened up so you can follow along as you’re placing and double checking things while you’re going.&lt;br /&gt;
# Don’t try to get the component exactly at the location of the pads without the brake. It’s quicker if you get it in the general area and use the fine adjustments knob after placing the brake.&lt;br /&gt;
# Pivot the micro camera to view alignments on both the x and y axes (again, the fine adjustment knobs are used here).&lt;br /&gt;
# If your tip is having a hard time keeping the component secure, try a bigger one.&lt;br /&gt;
# Be sure to use a smaller nozzle than the component you are trying to place! Failure to do this results in sucking up the component into the nozzle which can clog it and prevent the vacuum from being effectively used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Pick and Place has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure and how often it should occur.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|General Cleaning&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after use. Clean solder off of nozzle and clean table of loose components.&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Nozzle Change&lt;br /&gt;
|Only when a component has been sucked up into the nozzle.&lt;br /&gt;
|Student and Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=PCB_Printer&amp;diff=9026</id>
		<title>PCB Printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=PCB_Printer&amp;diff=9026"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T16:45:31Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=PCB Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:PCB_printer_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Voltera Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:PCB_printer_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:voltera-vone.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=The Voltera V-One PCB Printer&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1288&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=V-One&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has group=Circuit Board Design&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Voltera&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=V1-05-0129-120 / V1-04-0183-120&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The PCB Printer (Voltera V-One) brings quick turn PCBs to your desktop. Import your Gerber file into the Voltera software, press print, and the V-One will bring your board to life. Use the drilling, solder paste dispensing, and reflow features to mount components onto your printed board, or mount components on a pre-fabricated board with ease. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a simple example of what the PCB Printer can do. Currently the PCB lab has a different baking process using a different oven, so we will be curing the boards using a different method than shown in the video. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6nEgN4THRE}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The following conductive inks and pastes are stocked in the PCB Lab.  Each material requires a special heating program setting. See each individual material below for the proper reflow oven setting.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Inks are also identified by a lot name and expiration date. If properly installed, the expiration date should be viewable through the window in the dispenser, but the lot name will not. Refer to the label on the back of the dispenser for the lot name. When selecting the ink you're using in the Voltera software, it will identify the ink by type, lot name, and expiration date. Make sure you select the correct one.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:voltera_aqueous.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]&lt;br /&gt;
'''Conductive Ink'''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
- Use to lay conductive traces on substrates (Green is &amp;quot;V1 Ink&amp;quot; setting on Reflow Oven)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:voltera_furious.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]&lt;br /&gt;
'''Solder Paste'''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
- Use only on boards that utilize Voltera's ink traces, such as the ink above. (Orange is &amp;quot;V1 Paste&amp;quot; setting on Reflow Oven)&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:voltera_armored.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]&lt;br /&gt;
'''Solder Paste Sn63 Pb37'''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
- Use only premade boards, such as ones from [https://www.sunstone.com/ Sunstone Circuits] (Blue is &amp;quot;Sn63Pb37&amp;quot; on Reflow Oven)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:voltera_substrates.jpg|Substrates&lt;br /&gt;
File:vone_probe.jpg|Probe&lt;br /&gt;
File:Dispenser_and_Sheath.jpg|Dispenser and Sheath&lt;br /&gt;
File:voltera_conductive_ink.png|Conductive Ink Cartridge&lt;br /&gt;
File:voltera_225_nozzle.jpg|Nozzle - 225 Micron&lt;br /&gt;
File:voltera_burnish.jpg|Burnishing Pads&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.voltera.io/ Voltera Home Page]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.voltera.io/docs/downloads/manuals/Voltera%20V-One%20Manual%20%5BEnglish%5D.pdf User Manual]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://support.voltera.io/hc/en-us/sections/115001325748-User-Guides User Guides]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The PCB Printer is a fantastic tool for prototyping PCBs. After uploading Gerber files from Altium or a related software, the Voltera will be able to print traces and pads. The Voltera has the ability to bake traces and reflow components on its heated bed, but you will need to use the reflow oven to bake boards. The PCB Lab uses the reflow oven for baking due to the amount of people it needs to accommodate, so users will only be using the PCB Printer to print traces and pads. The Conductive Ink (used for Traces) is indicated by a green dot on the dispenser, the Voltera Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by an orange dot on the dispenser, and the Manufactured Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by a blue dot on the dispenser.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Before beginning with your PCB, it is imperative that it is completely flat, meaning no components are installed, as it will result in breaking the nozzle of the dispenser, or it will be unable to calibrate correctly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To show a complete knowledge of the PCB Printer, the student will design a PCB in Altium or related software, print the traces/pads, and transition to the Reflow Oven. As a part of the process, the student will also perform correct set up and shut down procedures, all of which can be found in the General Procedure below.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Using the Voltera to create single-sided boards with NO vias or holes.[[File:voltera_blinky_500.jpg|300x300px|thumb|right|Training board - The Blinky 500]]&lt;br /&gt;
# '''Drilling'''&lt;br /&gt;
## '''This board in particular does not have any holes, so this entire step can be skipped for this procedure''', however, these are the steps to take if you need to drill holes in the future.&lt;br /&gt;
## After opening the Voltera software, select Drill. This option is chosen only if you want to add holes to an existing board.&lt;br /&gt;
## For Drilling, you can either choose the Simple or Aligned route. Choose Simple if your board has no existing features, and choose Aligned if your board has some existing features. Lets go through the process for both.&lt;br /&gt;
## Drilling for a Simple Board&lt;br /&gt;
### Alrighty, you've chosen Simple, so this procedure assumes there is absolutely nothing fabricated on the board. Not gonna lie, this procedure is a little more sketchy than aligned simply because you literally eyeball your board's outline. The no eloquent calibration system. That's just how it works.&lt;br /&gt;
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.&lt;br /&gt;
### Then it will ask you to move your boards location on the plate so the Voltera knows where it needs to drill. This is the sketchy part. It outlines a square, and you make a judgement based on what it thinks. If it outlines too low, move your circuit up further on the plate to compensate for it. If it outlines too far to the left, move your circuit to the right on the plate to compensate for it. Continue this process until it looks &amp;quot;good enough.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
### Clean the calibration switches. Do not drench the Q-tip with Isopropyl alcohol, only get damp, and wipe away gently. Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication... [[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient. The transition between printing and drilling is done with the same alignment.&lt;br /&gt;
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!''' &lt;br /&gt;
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.&lt;br /&gt;
## Drilling for an Aligned Board&lt;br /&gt;
### Awesome, you've chosen Aligned, so this procedure assumes you have some preexisting holes and the like on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.&lt;br /&gt;
### Clean the calibration switches. Do not drench the Q-tip with Isopropyl alcohol, only get damp, and wipe away gently.&lt;br /&gt;
### Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication...[[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.&lt;br /&gt;
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green. Anything that is highlighted in Green will be executed.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
### Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''&lt;br /&gt;
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.&lt;br /&gt;
# '''Ready the Ink'''&lt;br /&gt;
## The ink is most usable when it reaches room temperature, so we have to let it warm up in advance.&lt;br /&gt;
## Reference the [[#Current Inks and Paste|Current Inks and Paste]] for information on the what the PCB lab is currently stocked with.&lt;br /&gt;
## Grab the correct conductive ink from the fridge, and let it warm up to room temperature, about 15-30 minutes. It is labeled with a '''green''' sticker. &lt;br /&gt;
# '''Software Setup'''&lt;br /&gt;
## Download the files for this project [[Media:pcb_printer_level_1.zip|here]].&lt;br /&gt;
## Power on the Voltera.&lt;br /&gt;
## Open the Voltera Windows application.&lt;br /&gt;
## Select &amp;quot;Print&amp;quot; and then &amp;quot;Simple.&amp;quot; &amp;quot;Print&amp;quot; indicates that we want to print traces, and &amp;quot;Simple&amp;quot; indicates that the board is not pre-fabricated. If we had a pre-fabricated board, we would instead select &amp;quot;Aligned&amp;quot; so we can align the holes.&lt;br /&gt;
## Next we need to add the proper conductive ink, which is the same conductive ink you acquired in step 1.2.&lt;br /&gt;
## Load the ink file from the project files. This is the Top Layer Gerber file. &lt;br /&gt;
# '''Cleaning the Sensors'''&lt;br /&gt;
## Take a cue tip and dip it into the isopropyl alcohol. The cue tip should be moist, but NOT soaked. Dab the cue tip on a paper towel to dry it slightly. &lt;br /&gt;
## Clean the calibration switches by rubbing them with the cue tip.This will help clear out any crap that could hurt the sensor. [[File:Voltera cleaning.jpg|border|none|300x300px|Cleaning the calibration switches]] &lt;br /&gt;
# '''Clamping the Substrate'''&lt;br /&gt;
## Acquire a 1.5&amp;quot; by 2&amp;quot; blank board. They are located in the one of the drawers.&lt;br /&gt;
## Slide the board underneath the clamps on the Voltera, push the clamps towards each other, and finger-tighten the thumb screws. You should not be able to move the board once you clamp them down. [[File:Voltera clamping.jpg|border|none|300x300px]] &lt;br /&gt;
# '''Mounting the Probe'''&lt;br /&gt;
## Pull the probe from one of the drawers. The probe should have a large metal tip, do not confuse it with the dispenser. [[File:Voltera drawer.jpg|border|none|300x300px]] &lt;br /&gt;
## Remove the cap and place it near the Voltera.&lt;br /&gt;
## Mount the probe onto the magnetic gantry. It should snap into place and the contacts should align. [[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]] &lt;br /&gt;
# '''Positioning and Probing'''&lt;br /&gt;
## Click &amp;quot;Outline.&amp;quot; This will show you where the Voltera thinks the board is. It will move the probe around the printer surface and determine how close the dispenser will need to be to the board.&lt;br /&gt;
## Repeat step one until the outline is centered with the board. Click and drag the circuit in the Voltera application to move the outline. &lt;br /&gt;
## '''You MUST ensure the outline does not collide with the clamps AND does not exceed the dimensions of the board!''' Do NOT proceed until this is checked!&lt;br /&gt;
## In the next step, Click &amp;quot;Probe&amp;quot; and wait for the Voltera to finish its measurements. [[File:Voltera probing.jpg|border|none|300x300px]] &lt;br /&gt;
## Remove the probe, replace the cap, place the probe back in the drawer, and proceed.  &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
# '''Priming the Conductor'''&lt;br /&gt;
## Ensure 15 minutes have passed before beginning the next step. This helps the ink flow easier, so the dispenser should not be cold to the touch.&lt;br /&gt;
## '''Read carefully.''' The Voltera application explains this step well. Follow the on-screen instructions before moving on to the next step. Some tips/tricks/warnings: &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt; - '''Nozzles are fragile!''' You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Treat this process with care!&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt; - Hold the dispenser over a paper towel to prevent ink from getting everywhere.&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt; - If you need to wipe the nozzle, do so '''gently''' and '''use a cotton swab found in the drawers.''' &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt; - Ink should not be flowing quickly out of the dispenser when you finish priming, but '''a very small amount''' of flow is OK. &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt; [[File:Voltera priming.jpg|border|none|300x300px]] &lt;br /&gt;
## Mount the dispenser. [[File:Voltera mount_conductive.jpg|border|none|300x300px]] &lt;br /&gt;
# '''Calibration'''&lt;br /&gt;
## Click &amp;quot;Advanced.&amp;quot; Start with the '''Z at 0.10 mm''' and the '''E at 0 um'''. Adjust the Voltera to these values, as it is a safe distance for the dispenser.&lt;br /&gt;
## Click &amp;quot;Calibrate.&amp;quot; The Voltera will lay down a test print. Pay close attention to the amount and consistency of the ink.[[File:Voltera calibrate.jpg|border|none|300x300px]] &lt;br /&gt;
## The example below has slightly too much ink. Notice how a portion of the horizontal lines touch and some parts of the ink glob up. [[File:Voltera calibrate_bad.jpg|border|none|300x300px]] &lt;br /&gt;
## In this case, to make an adjustment, the ink height was set to a '''Z of 0.09 mm''' and the flow was set to an '''E of -10 um.''' This dispenses less ink than before. &lt;br /&gt;
## '''You may need to do the same or make different adjustments. Whatever you do, do NOT run the nozzle into the board! The nozzle will break!'''&lt;br /&gt;
## If an adjustment was made, '''wipe the board clean with a paper towel (shown below) and/or clean it with isopropyl alcohol''' and repeat the calibration. [[File:Voltera calibrate_wipe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]] &lt;br /&gt;
## The example below is a more acceptable test print. Strive for this consistency. If your board looks right, proceed. [[File:Voltera calibrate_better.jpg|border|none|300x300px]] &lt;br /&gt;
## Click &amp;quot;Next,&amp;quot; and wipe the board clean a final time, as you are now preparing to print your whole circuit. &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
# '''Top Layer Print'''&lt;br /&gt;
## '''The Voltera will print what is selected in Green.''' Below is an example of a portion of the board selected. Ensure the portion you want to print is selected (in this case, select everything.) '''Remember that blue lines will not be printed.''' [[File:voltera_selection.PNG|300x300px|none]] &lt;br /&gt;
## Click &amp;quot;Start.&amp;quot; Let the Voltera finish its process. If a portion of the print fails or is incorrect, you can stop mid-print, or wait until it is finished and redo that selection. Also shown below is an example of a portion of ink that globbed up. The portion was wiped and can be reprinted. [[File:voltera_printing.jpg|300x300px|none]] &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt; [[File:voltera_print_blob.jpg|300x300px|none]] &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt; [[File:voltera_print_redo.jpg|300x300px|none]] &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
## Remove the conductive ink, put the cap back on, '''and return the conductive ink to the fridge!'''&lt;br /&gt;
## When you reach the instruction titled &amp;quot;Flip Board,&amp;quot; you are done. We want to bake these traces on the Reflow Oven before we do anything else to the board. &lt;br /&gt;
## Unclamp the board from the Voltera, and remember that the traces are still wet, so do not smear them around.&lt;br /&gt;
## Consult the Reflow Oven wiki and complete that process.&lt;br /&gt;
#'''Preparing for Solder Paste'''&lt;br /&gt;
##You should now have a PCB with traces baked on it! Time to make those pads for placing components.&lt;br /&gt;
##Take a burnishing pad from one of the drawers. Rub the substrate with the pad until the traces have a shine to them, rather than a dull appearance.&lt;br /&gt;
##Replace the burnishing pad back into the drawer. This cleans the surface of the traces and makes them look super shiny.&lt;br /&gt;
#'''Aligning the Paste'''&lt;br /&gt;
##This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to print solder. The user gives it two locations where the pads should go, and the Voltera can use the Gerber files to determine where else pads need to go.&lt;br /&gt;
##At this time, retrieve the solder paste from the fridge and set it out to warm. The correct paste is labeled with an '''orange''' sticker.&lt;br /&gt;
##Take the board back to the Voltera and clamp the board into place. Again, you should not be able to move the board after it is clamped.&lt;br /&gt;
##Open the Voltera application and choose &amp;quot;Solder,&amp;quot; and choose the proper paste. In this case you want the '''orange'''-labeled paste.&lt;br /&gt;
##Clean the calibration switches, mount the probe, and proceed.&lt;br /&gt;
##Click 'Move to feature.&amp;quot; This will move the probe to a pre-determined feature and should not be aligned properly on the first go. It is your job to align it correctly.&lt;br /&gt;
##First, use the arrow keys to roughly align the feature with the probe. This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to put the pads.&lt;br /&gt;
##Next, click &amp;quot;Lower,&amp;quot; and use the arrow keys to fine-tune the alignment. Your precision in these steps is key to getting solder paste in the correct places.&lt;br /&gt;
##Click &amp;quot;Measure&amp;quot; when the alignment is correct. The board will be probed and the head will move to a second feature.&lt;br /&gt;
##Repeat steps 8 and 9.&lt;br /&gt;
##Click &amp;quot;Measure.&amp;quot; The alignment is now finished. &lt;br /&gt;
##You can confirm the alignment by clicking various features and seeing if the head moves to the right position. If something is off, you can go back and realign if necessary. Proceed until you need to measure the height of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
##Click &amp;quot;Probe.&amp;quot; This will measure the height of the board and determine how far away the dispenser needs to be from the board.&lt;br /&gt;
##Once it finishes probing, remove the probe and replace it in the drawer.&lt;br /&gt;
#'''Priming the Paste'''&lt;br /&gt;
##Refer to the priming directions in step 8 before mounting the dispenser. &lt;br /&gt;
##Once it is primed, mount it and proceed.&lt;br /&gt;
##Click &amp;quot;Dispense.&amp;quot; The paste will dispense onto all of the selected pads.&lt;br /&gt;
##Strive for good coverage of paste, preferably covering most of the pad, if not all of it.&lt;br /&gt;
##Remove the dispenser. Twist the knob clockwise to back off the paste. '''Put it back in the fridge,''' and quit the Voltera app.&lt;br /&gt;
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that you are handling a board with wet paste. Clean up!&lt;br /&gt;
##You are now done with the PCB Printer! Refer to the Pick and Place as well as the Reflow Oven wikis for the remainder of the process.  &lt;br /&gt;
# '''18658 [what is this?]''' &lt;br /&gt;
## The board consists of a button, a 680Ω resistor, and an LED. Attach a fixed 5VDC connection to the + and -, and the LED should illuminate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
# When the PCB Printer is moving and doing its thing, just let it be. Interfering will result in breaking equipment and possibly hurting yourself, especially with the drill. Voltera gives excellent advice/steps for their PCB fabrication process, be sure to follow them. &lt;br /&gt;
# If you feel like you do not know what you are doing, ask someone for help. You could damage both the equipment and possibly hurt yourself. Do not hesitate to ask or confirm at any point during the process.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1288 Foxtale Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
# Drilling&lt;br /&gt;
## If your holes seem to be all out of wack, be sure to confirm the following: you should be using the vacuum to suck up any debris that comes from drilling your board while it is drilling. The pieces can interfere with your part.&lt;br /&gt;
## If they seem to be drilling in the wrong places, then it probably isn't aligned correctly. Go back in the process and start over.&lt;br /&gt;
# Calibration/Alignment&lt;br /&gt;
## During the probing process, be sure that your board is completely flat and that the clamps cover a minimal amount of the board while keeping it secure. If the probing hits the claps or runs off the board, the calibration is no good. Go back to the initial stages where you align holes/indicate where to print traces.&lt;br /&gt;
## When holes are available during the Alignment stage, always use them to align your board. NEVER use pads or traces unless you absolutely have to. Holes are much easier to align with.&lt;br /&gt;
# Printing Traces/Solder&lt;br /&gt;
## Be sure that the dispenser has been warming up to room temperature for at least 15 minutes so the ink can flow smoothly. &lt;br /&gt;
## If the ink does not seem come come out even when you're priming the dispenser, chances are that it is clogged. Remove the tip, notify a PCB Lab worker, and install a new tip (ask a worker if you don't know how).&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
The PCB Printer has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
!Last Completion&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|General Cleaning&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use, including ink/solder residue and drilled material&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Replacing Sacrificial Layer&lt;br /&gt;
|When the existing layer is worn through and can potential damage the heating bed&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Replacing Nozzle&lt;br /&gt;
|When the nozzle is clogged&lt;br /&gt;
|Student or Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Refrigerating the Dispensers&lt;br /&gt;
|Whenever they are not in use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Switch Cleaning&lt;br /&gt;
|During Calibration stage using Isopropyl Alcohol and a giant Q-tip&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Replacing ink/solder paste syringe&lt;br /&gt;
|Whenever out of ink/solder paste&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Labeling dispenser with lot name&lt;br /&gt;
|Whenever ink/solder paste is replaced&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Cleaning calibration switch linear hardware (Disassemble, clean, oil)&lt;br /&gt;
|Once yearly, or as required.&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace and Technician&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Speedy_400&amp;diff=9024</id>
		<title>Speedy 400</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Speedy_400&amp;diff=9024"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T16:42:05Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is laser cutter equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:laser_cutter_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Laser Engraver Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:laser_cutter_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Speedy 400.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=The Trotec Speedy 400 Laser Engraver&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1212&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Trotec&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Speedy 400&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=S4-2209 / 01422-11690 &lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace= Zach Cogswell: zcogswell18@GeorgeFox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Trotec Speedy 400 laser engraver is used to engrave and cut materials based on specified images and shapes.  The working area of the laser is 40&amp;quot; x 24&amp;quot;. This is useful for making enclosures out of acrylic, engraving designs into many materials, creating trophies, and cutting any two dimensional shape out of a variety of materials. It also has a rotary attachment which enables cylindrical objects such as drinking glasses and hydro flasks to be engraved with detailed designs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCwJ8xWRpIE}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
The Speedy 400 uses the same software and general setup as the Speedy 300, however it has a larger bed and a few backend setting differences. Should be able to train on either the 300 or 400 and use both machines. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
NOTE: Currently, the Speedy 400 should not be used for acrylic**. There are some issues with settings/airflow that cause acrylic to often catch fire while cutting (which, as you would imagine, is bad)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
** If you know what you are doing and are very careful, small (&amp;lt;10 inches) pieces of 1/4&amp;quot; or 1/8&amp;quot; acrylic allow for sufficient airflow to avoid catching fire. Small pieces of 1/2&amp;quot; acrylic can often work as well, as long as you are careful. If the fumes light fire while cutting, pause the print IMMEDIATELY (the same button as start), or, if needed, stop it entirely (although this will abort the cut and you will not be able to continue). Often pausing allows the fire to go out and the acrylic to cool down, so for small cuts you may be able to continue, carefully, after pausing. If you must cut large sheets of acrylic, remove the paper from the area you are cutting, as close to the size of your cut as possible. Although it is not the paper that is burning, removing it seems to reduce the possibility of fire. Try not to remove any more paper than absolutely necessary, as the paper keeps the acrylic clean and protected from scratches when in the stock pile.&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Inkscape - The program you will be using to design is Inkscape. It allows you to type in words, edit logos, make your own logos and such to engrave or cut out of your material.&lt;br /&gt;
* Job Control - The program that interacts with the laser cutter to perform a cut. Job Control lets you set up/create Material Profiles, change between the HoneyComb Table and the Rotary tool (mostly used for Hydroflasks), and choose a location to cut on your material. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Focusing tool - Used to focus the laser cutter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Stroke - This is the type of line that should be used when cutting.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Repeat Cut Line - Can be used in JobControl to reproduce the same cut line that was just cut. &lt;br /&gt;
* Outline Job - Can be used in JobControl to trace the job that is going to be cut to show where job extends. &lt;br /&gt;
* Bitmap - Representation of an image as bits of information (pixels); used to allow logos/stencils to be changed into colors. &lt;br /&gt;
* Vector - Representation of an image as shapes, rather than bits; used to allow logos/stencils to be modified as objects. &lt;br /&gt;
* Trace Bitmap - Can be used on a bitmap to to turn it into a vector. &lt;br /&gt;
* Honeycomb Table - This is the honeycomb shaped metal tray that holds flat material during a cut. It is used for most cut jobs.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Rotary Tool - When engraving water bottles or glasses, this accessory is used to hold the object in place as well as rotate it while performing a cut.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Manual [[Media:Speedy-400-Manual-EN.pdf]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Performing a cut or engrave with the laser will always begin with Inkscape by opening/importing an image, pdf, DXF, or similar file. If you do not have a file yet then it can also be used to create geometries. When you use SolidWorks to generate a .dxf file the correct face must be selected prior to saving the file. Once a file has been brought into Inkscape, it must be adjusted  so that job control can distinguish between what should be cut out of the material and what should be engraved. A cut is indicated by a hairline red stroke (in the RGB color scheme) and an engrave is indicated by the color black. After the graphic is prepared, it is transferred to job control using [File] &amp;gt; [Print] and making sure trotec is selected as the device. It will then pop up in the job list on the right hand side of JobControl. At this point the laser cutter should be set up by turning it on, placing the material on the honeycomb table, and then raising the table to focus the laser. The final steps are then to click the USB icon in job control to connect to the laser cutter, drag the job onto the to scale honeycomb table, set the correct material properties, and then click the play button to perform the cut/engrave. When performing an engrave on a cylindrical object, the set up process in Inkscape is the same but there are a few differences in job control and laser cutter itself. Primarily, the honeycomb table must be exchanged for the rotary tool, which must be done while the laser cutter is OFF. The laser cutter should automatically recognize that the rotary is attached. The only change in job control is that the accessory should be changed in the settings from the honeycomb table to the rotary tool.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, import a George Fox logo into Inkscape and set it up so that the logo is an engrave with a cut circle surrounding it. Once this is done, print the job to job control and run the job on a piece of scrap material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:trotec_laser_engraving.mp4|thumb|none|400px|This video shows the complete process of completing an engrave. See below for details on doing this. ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Setting up a Job&lt;br /&gt;
## First off, to get your design, just copy an image and paste it into Inkscape or find a pdf version of the file and open it. If you are cutting a part from a Solidworks file it must be saved as a dxf before importing to Inkscape.&lt;br /&gt;
## To open a dxf file go to [File] &amp;gt; [Import]. If a dxf file is being used feel free to skip to step 7.&lt;br /&gt;
## Measure the size of your material, and set the page in Inkscape to those dimensions. You can alter the dimensions of the page you are putting the image on by selecting [File] &amp;gt; [Document Properties], and even the width (W) and height (H) image itself in the top. If you want to keep the image dimensions consistent, but just scale it down, click the lock button between these dimensions. If you want to make your own design using text, squares, circles, etc, you can find everything you need in the column on the far left of the client.[[File:...gfuLogo.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]&lt;br /&gt;
## Once you have your design, we need to alter the colors a little bit so the Laser Cutter can understand what you want it to do. It goes like this: a red stroke will cut, and anything that is black will engrave. A stroke is merely an option that outlines the object you select.&lt;br /&gt;
##In order to do this, we need to split up the image into different pieces. This is called vectoring, where it will divide the image into different pieces based on shapes and color. Just select the logo, right click, and select Trace Bitmap. You will be given options shown in the picture below. For this application,we want to separate the colors from each other, so we select the Colors option. The number of scans you have selected will define how closely the vector output will replicate the actual photo (the bitmap) or how many colors you want the vector to tape. Since this is a simple logo and we have 3 colors/shades to take, 3 scans will be enough. If the detail is not good enough, try the other options and have some fun. Once this process is finished, the vector will appear directly on top of the original image, so make sure to drag it off and separate the two before beginning.[[File:...traceBitmap.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]&lt;br /&gt;
## Since there are a few separate parts to this vector, it is possible to break apart these and alter the image however you want. Select the image, right click and go to Ungroup. Now you can mess with each individual part! You can take either of these designs and delete them, essentially they will cut out and engrave the same design. Let's go with the one on the right. [[File:...separateParts.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]&lt;br /&gt;
## Now we can manipulate the colors. Select the object and go to [Object] &amp;gt; [Fill and Stroke] (usually it will already be open on the right sidebar). You will see Fill, Stroke Paint, and Stroke Style on the top right. Fill changes the color of a piece, Stroke Paint changes the color of a stroke, and Stroke Style changes the thickness and style of a stroke. You will see values for R, G, and B, where all colors can be made using these. When each color has a 0 next to it, it will be fully black. When the red has a 255 next to it and the others have 0, it will be fully red. Make sure you check these bit values before continuing, since the machine is set to cutting material ONLY when it sees 255, 0, 0, and it will engrave material ONLY when it sees 0, 0, 0. Everything else, make it white, which is 255, 255, 255. Be sure to make each a Flat Color so that the color is constant throughout the entire object.[[File:...Stroke.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]&lt;br /&gt;
## Once you have finished your design, it’s time to send it to the Laser Cutter! Hit print, make sure it is sending to Trotec Engraver but do not click [OK] yet.  &lt;br /&gt;
## Select [Preferences] to open the engraver properties. You will want to make sure the [Minimize to Job size] option is NOT selected and that the [Height] - [Width] values match the page size selected in Inkscape. DO NOT have [Enhanced Geometries} selected because it causes the curved parts of your design to be unrecognized once it is uploaded to the Job Control.[[File:...printing.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]&lt;br /&gt;
## Then you can save these settings by selecting the button that shows the JC logo near the bottom of the Printing Preferences.&lt;br /&gt;
## Select Print to send the design to Job Control.&lt;br /&gt;
# Setting up the Laser Cutter&lt;br /&gt;
## Turn on the machine using the power switch located on the back of the machine in the left corner. The machine will go through a startup procedure where the cutting bed lowers and the laser travels to its home position. Note that the lid must be closed for the startup procedure to begin and there will be some beeping coming from the machine which is normal.&lt;br /&gt;
## Place your material onto the honeycomb table, preferably in the upper left corner.&lt;br /&gt;
## Now it’s time to focus the laser onto your material. Begin by moving the laser head over the middle of your material; then place the focusing tool on the laser head and slowly raise the table until the the focusing tool falls off. Raise the bed extra slow when reaching the focusing tool so the bed can be stopped the moment the tool falls off. Reference the images below for proper focusing tool placement and laser head controls.[[File:Laser Focus Tool.png|none|thumb|404x404px| Proper placement of the focusing tool. ]][[File:Laser Controls.png|none|thumb|296x296px| Laser control pad. (1) Raise and lower the bed. (2) Move the laser head (5) Air assist. Make sure it is always on to vent fumes properly.   ]]&lt;br /&gt;
## Remove the focusing tool and return it to its home.&lt;br /&gt;
## Press the USB icon found in the bottom right corner of job control to connect to the laser cutter. The laser should beep a few times and then a the background of job control will change to a honeycomb pattern to represent the actual honeycomb table. Also, the USB icon will change to a play icon. &lt;br /&gt;
# Cutting with Job Control&lt;br /&gt;
## After you send your design to Job Control it will let you name your design and it will store it in a window on the right. If you do not see your design, be sure to select [See All] at the bottom of that window. This lets you see files ALL dpi types, rather than just a specific dpi type. &lt;br /&gt;
## Double click/drag your design into the middle area and lock the top left corner of the design into the bottom right of the cursor. &lt;br /&gt;
## Then select your material at the top left.You can check the print preview by double clicking the box showing your preview in the bottom right.[[File:Mitch5.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]&lt;br /&gt;
## If the cursor is not already visible, be sure that the laser cutter is connected to Job Control via the USB symbol in the bottom right. You can click the Update in the bottom left to see the duration of the job, and now you are ready to click the Play button in the bottom right. For bigger jobs, the Laser Cutter will take a little bit of time to read the design. If it does not start immediately, don’t be scared. Just be supportive and it will begin shortly. If it does not start at all, ask for help from a worker.&lt;br /&gt;
## Once the job starts, stay with it. Be sure it is actually engraving/cutting the material. If it is not doing what it should be, stop it by lifting the lid and consult the supervisor for assistance.[[File:Mitch6.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]&lt;br /&gt;
## After the job is completed reset the space by cleaning out any scrap materials from the bed and deleting the job from job control and Inkscape.&lt;br /&gt;
# Cutting with the Rotary Tool&lt;br /&gt;
## The Rotary Tool lets you cut and engrave cylindrical objects, the most popular of these being Hydroflasks. This part applies after you have already sent the file from CoreLDRAW to the Laser Cutter.&lt;br /&gt;
## Turn OFF the machine, remove the honeycomb table, and plug in the rotary tool. The rest of the laser cutter setup is the same as above.&lt;br /&gt;
## To start off, go to Settings → Options → Hardware → Accessories. This is where you can switch from the HoneyComb Table to the Rotary Tool and vice versa.  &lt;br /&gt;
## Enter the diameter of your bottle (using the Calipers in the lab), as it tells the Rotary Tool how fast to turn as it engraves. Do not mess this up, or you will have a stretched/squeezed image.    [[File:Rotary 1.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]&lt;br /&gt;
## Once you click OK/apply, the window background will look like the image below.   &lt;br /&gt;
## Double click/drag the job onto the window. It should automatically flip the image so that it will engrave in the proper orientation even though the bottle is held horizontally.  [[File:Rotary2.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]&lt;br /&gt;
## Next, pick the material Hydroflask → Black Mug for a Hydroflask, or one of the glass profiles if engraving glass, and now you are ready to engrave your thing!   &lt;br /&gt;
## When you are finished, RESET THE SPACE! Put the Rotary Tool away and replace it with the HoneyComb Table.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
* Always make sure the material you are using is safe to use. There is an especially high risk when engraving plastics. Fumes from plastics can be toxic. Make sure you find the specific material you are using and check to see if it produces toxic fumes when burned. Never attempt to engrave PVC as it produces chlorine gas (the stuff they used in WWI).&lt;br /&gt;
* Once the laser is focused do not touch the button that raises the bed or the laser will crash into the machine which causes damage to the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
* Be careful when moving the laser head when using the rotary tool because it has protruding parts that will harm the laser cutter if a crash occurs.&lt;br /&gt;
* Keep an eye on active cuts because fires can be started when cutting wood or acrylic with paper covering.&lt;br /&gt;
* If you feel unsure about anything located in the laser cutting procedure make sure to consult the supervisor for assistance.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1212 Canvas Course]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
'''First of all, check your export settings'''&lt;br /&gt;
* There are multiple combinations of settings that will work for export; which means that depending on who was using the machine last, settings may be different. These are the settings I (the ace) have found to work most consistantly: Set your Inkscape document to square by going to File &amp;gt; Document Properties (or press Ctl+Shift+D) and set both the Height and Width fields to the same value, bigger than your shape. Why this is an issue is yet unknown, Inkscape just doesn’t like exporting non-square documents with the other settings to follow. Print the document with File &amp;gt; Print or Ctl+P. Click preferences and check both “Take From Application” and “Minimize to Jobsize.” These settings tell the program to assume the canvas is the same size as Inkscape and then crop to the size of your print. Also verify “image mode” is set to “color.” These settings will fix most common issues.&lt;br /&gt;
'''Cuts are not being made'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Some export settings may be incorrect. Verify that your settings are set to those described above. These settings will fix most issues of lines not cutting. &lt;br /&gt;
* Verify that all stokes are set to red with a stroke width between 1pt and .25pt (.25pt recommended) &lt;br /&gt;
* Verify that your print is entirely within the canvas of Inkscape. &lt;br /&gt;
* In Preferences, within Print options, verify “image mode” is set to “color.” Otherwise, your red stokes will not be read as color, and not be seen by the laser cutter. &lt;br /&gt;
'''The cuts did not go all the way through the material'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Are you using the correct material profile? If not, rest the job (described below) and repeat the cut with the correct material profile. If it appears that the cut went partway through the material you may want to use a setting that is less powerful than your material would normally use (again, described below) &lt;br /&gt;
* You should always place your material in a corner. This way, if the cuts do not go all the way through you can reposition it easily. DO NOT MOVE THE JOB in JobControl! If you put the material in a corner, should be able to place the material back where it was, and then reset the job in JobControl by right clicking on the job in JobControl and selecting the reset job option, or by pressing Ctl+R. Next, run the cut again on the smallest thickness setting for your material. For example, if you are cutting 1/4 inch acrylic and it does not cut all the way through, repeat the cut with the 1/8 inch acrylic setting. &lt;br /&gt;
* If you are using the correct material profile for your material and cuts are not going all the way through, please email me and let me know so that I can take a look and fix the settings. ZCogswell18@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
'''The laser went really fast leaving a sort of light engrave rather than a cut'''&lt;br /&gt;
* You did not select the correct material, and the job ran with the ‘standard’ setting. DO NOT MOVE THE MATERIAL! You can reset the job by right clicking on the job in Job Control and selecting the reset job option, or by pressing Ctl+R. Then, select the correct material in the upper left dropdown menu and run the job again. This way you do not need to reposition the material or job, which you will almost never do perfectly. &lt;br /&gt;
'''The laser repeated the cut multiple times'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Some material profiles, such as half-inch, acrylic are set to repeat the cut line multiple times, as to get a cleaner product. If the cuts look good, this is normal.&lt;br /&gt;
* Are you importing from SolidWorks?  For some reason, SolidWorks likes to have duplicate lines quite often. In Inkscape, click on the cut that was repeated and drag to move it. If you move the line and another line is underneath, you need to delete all duplicates in the file. Often if you have a thin stoke (.25pt) and zoom out, the duplicate lines will be visually darker, allowing you to identify and delete them. &lt;br /&gt;
'''The acrylic is melted or blackened'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Verify that you are using the correct material profile. If you are, for example, cutting 1/4 acrylic with the 1/2 setting, the acrylic will be melted and not give clean cuts. &lt;br /&gt;
* Are you importing from SolidWorks? As mentioned above, “''For some reason, SolidWorks likes to have duplicate lines quite often. In Inkscape, click on the cut that was repeated and drag to move it. If you move the line and another line is underneath, you need to delete all duplicates in the file. Often if you have a thin stoke (.25pt) and zoom out, the duplicate lines will be visually darker, allowing you to identify and delete them.”''&lt;br /&gt;
'''Cuts are not clean'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Is the machine focused properly for your material? If you’re not sure, or even if you are (you may have bumped the bed control buttons accidentally) refocus it. &lt;br /&gt;
* Check the lens for dust because this can interfere with the laser. If it is dirty, see the maintenance section on how to clean it. &lt;br /&gt;
'''The material is being cut in unintended places''' &lt;br /&gt;
* Check your Inkscape file and make sure there are no red stokes in places you did not want&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure there are no other jobs on the work area (grey rectangles in the honeycomb area of JobControl). If there are, drag them back into the list on the right side or delete them&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To keep the laser cutter running and cutting smoothly, the mirror and lens should be periodically cleaned. This is on top of the general cleaning that should be done to keep the machine dust and scrap free. There is also filters in the exhaust system that must be changed once the activated carbon has been used up.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
!Last Done&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1&lt;br /&gt;
|General cleaning &lt;br /&gt;
|As needed after a cut&lt;br /&gt;
|Student &lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean the Mirror &lt;br /&gt;
|As needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean the Lens &lt;br /&gt;
|As needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4&lt;br /&gt;
|Change Filters &lt;br /&gt;
|When filter usage reaches 100%&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
# The honeycomb should be removed and the metal bed itself should be should be swept/cleaned more or less daily. Cleaners are available to help in this process. Green is general cleaning use this for the bed and metal surfaces. Blue is glass cleaner, use this for the plexiglass surfaces. The front door of the Speedy 300 may be removed using the spring loaded pin on the right to remove cut pieces stuck in the door. The air vents at the rear of the machine should be kept clean of debris. Clean in a manner similar to the bed.&lt;br /&gt;
# The lense, mirror, and cone should be inspected daily or more often as needed, especially after wood or other “dusty”/”smokey” materials are cut. The lense will need cleaning when particles are visible on the surface (hold up to light if need be). The lense may be removed using the threaded nut below the lense (see photo). The lense should be cleaned with the lense paper and cleaner available in the kit (lasercutter drawer) on both sides. Put some cleaner on the lense and gently rub the paper over the surface of the lense. The cone itself threads into the assembly below the lense nut. The cone may be cleaned with a paper towel and water or another cleaning agent. The mirror should be inspected and cleaned in the same manner as the lense.&lt;br /&gt;
# See above.&lt;br /&gt;
# The air filter to the right of the Speedy 300 will occasionally need maintenance. The most common issue is a full pre-filter. This will be indicated on the filter itself by poor airflow/suction. When replacing this, use a face mask and gloves (close the lab when doing this). Open the top of the air filter with the large 10mm hex wrench in the kit. Remove the prefilter and place it in a bag for disposal. Insert a new prefilter and close the lid. Pre-filters are used to increase the lifespan of other, harder to replace and more expensive filters in the system. Less often, other filters will need replacing. These include the larger box filter, additional pre-filter-type mat filters, and activated carbon. This should not need to happen as often. Follow the above procedure for pre-filter and the [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJkCgAVbAEU&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be video] to replace the full filter setup. Be careful not to spill activate carbon if doing a full replacement, it is difficult to clean up.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Speedy_300&amp;diff=9023</id>
		<title>Speedy 300</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Speedy_300&amp;diff=9023"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T16:41:36Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
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 |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:laser_cutter_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Laser Engraver Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:laser_cutter_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:laser_cutter_image.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=The Trotec Speedy 300 Laser Engraver&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1223&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Trotec&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=156F&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=140801D83D63 / 01411-05631 (Air Filter)&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Zach Cogswell: ZCogswell18@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
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[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Trotec Speedy 300 laser engraver is used to engrave and cut materials based on specified images and shapes. This is useful for making enclosures out of acrylic, engraving designs into many materials, creating trophies, and cutting any two dimensional shape out of a variety of materials. It also has a rotary attachment which enables cylindrical objects such as drinking glasses and hydro flasks to be engraved with detailed designs. &lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qF8dHQPy6o}}[[File:Hydrowiki.jpg|thumb|400x400px|none|Example of an engraved Hydroflask. ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
* Inkscape - The program you will be using to design is Inkscape. It allows you to type in words, edit logos, make your own logos and such to engrave or cut out of your material.&lt;br /&gt;
* Job Control - The program that interacts with the laser cutter to perform a cut. Job Control lets you set up/create Material Profiles, change between the HoneyComb Table and the Rotary tool (mostly used for Hydroflasks), and choose a location to cut on your material. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Focusing tool - Used to focus the laser cutter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Stroke - This is the type of line that should be used when cutting.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Repeat Cut Line - Can be used in JobControl to reproduce the same cut line that was just cut. &lt;br /&gt;
* Outline Job - Can be used in JobControl to trace the job that is going to be cut to show where job extends. &lt;br /&gt;
* Bitmap - Representation of an image as bits of information (pixels); used to allow logos/stencils to be changed into colors. &lt;br /&gt;
* Vector - Representation of an image as shapes, rather than bits; used to allow logos/stencils to be modified as objects. &lt;br /&gt;
* Trace Bitmap - Can be used on a bitmap to to turn it into a vector. &lt;br /&gt;
* Honeycomb Table - This is the honeycomb shaped metal tray that holds flat material during a cut. It is used for most cut jobs.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Rotary Tool - When engraving water bottles or glasses, this accessory is used to hold the object in place as well as rotate it while performing a cut.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== User Manual ====&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.itee.uq.edu.au/etsg//filething/get/3156/Speedy-300-Manual-EN.pdf User Guide]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Performing a cut or engrave with the laser will always begin with Inkscape by opening/importing an image, pdf, DXF, or similar file. If you do not have a file yet then it can also be used to create geometries. When you use SolidWorks to generate a .dxf file the correct face must be selected prior to saving the file.  Once a file has been brought into Inkscape, it must be adjusted  so that job control can distinguish between what should be cut out of the material and what should be engraved. A cut is indicated by a hairline red stroke (in the RGB color scheme) and an engrave is indicated by the color black. After the graphic is prepared, it is transferred to job control using [File] &amp;gt; [Print] and making sure trotec is selected as the device. It will then pop up in the job list on the right hand side of JobControl. At this point the laser cutter should be set up by turning it on, placing the material on the honeycomb table, and then raising the table to focus the laser. The final steps are then to click the USB icon in job control to connect to the laser cutter, drag the job onto the to scale honeycomb table, set the correct material properties, and then click the play button to perform the cut/engrave. When performing an engrave on a cylindrical object, the set up process in Inkscape is the same but there are a few differences in job control and laser cutter itself. Primarily, the honeycomb table must be exchanged for the rotary tool, which must be done while the laser cutter is OFF. The laser cutter should automatically recognize that the rotary is attached. The only change in job control is that the accessory should be changed in the settings from the honeycomb table to the rotary tool.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A Training Venture (TV) that uses the Laser Cutter is the [[Windchimes]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, import a George Fox logo into Inkscape and set it up so that the logo is an engrave with a cut circle surrounding it. Once this is done, print the job to job control and run the job on a piece of scrap material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:trotec_laser_engraving.mp4|thumb|none|400px|This video shows the complete process of completing an engrave. See below for details on doing this. ]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# '''Setting up a Job'''&lt;br /&gt;
## First off, open a new document in Inkscape on your own machine or one of the lab computers (File &amp;gt; New, or Ctrl + N). Next, you’ll want to set the dimensions of your page by going to [File] &amp;gt; [Document Properties] (Ctrl + Shift + D). Your page can be as big as you like, as long as it’s larger than the shape you’re working with. However, always '''make sure that the document is square.''' There’s some weird quirk with the software that makes this necessary, keeping the document square will keep you from running into a lot of problems later on. Under the “Custom Size” section in document properties, set your hight and width to something larger than the longest dimension of your object. When you export the shape to the laser cutter, Inkscape will export anything within the document canvas and ignore anything that extends beyond it’s borders. &lt;br /&gt;
## Now you’re ready to create a shape to be cut or engraved.   a.)     If you’re importing a shape from SolidWorks, the file should be saved as a .DXF file. Simply drag the file onto your Inkscape document or import it via [File] &amp;gt; [Import] (Ctrl + I). If prompted to select scaling options, choose “read from file” and click OK. Next, select the object and go to [Object] &amp;gt; [Ungroup] (Ctrl + Shift + G). This will allow you to select the text objects that make up the SolidWorks watermark and delete them. While you’re here, make sure that there is only one copy of each line, as SolidWorks often likes to make duplicates. Finally, you may want to select all of the remaining objects and regroup them with [Object] &amp;gt; [Group] (Ctrl + G). Skip to step 5.  b.)     If you want to cut or engrave from an image, the best way to do so is from a vector image file. Vector graphics files store the lines, shapes, and colors that make up an image rather than storing data based on pixels as in a typical raster image. These lines, shapes, and colors is what the laser cutter interprets when cutting and engraving. If you’ve designed something in Adobe Illustrator, Inkscape, or other vector-based drawing applications, you can save your image directly to this format. If you’re looking for images online, search for vector images. These will most commonly be in the format of .SVG, .EPS, and some types of .PDF. You can import these types of images into your Inkscape document by simply dragging them onto the canvas or importing them via [File] &amp;gt; [Import] (Ctrl + I). Skip to step 5.   c.)    If you want to engrave or cut a raster (pixel-based) image, you will need to convert it to a vector shape. Drag your image onto the Inkscape canvas and proceed to step 3. [[File:...gfuLogo.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]&lt;br /&gt;
## Inkscape can convert an image into vectors based on the composition of the source image. To do this, select your image, right click, and select Trace Bitmap, (Alt + Shift + B). You will be given several options shown below. Check the “Live Preview” box which will give you a better idea what’s going to happen. For the George Fox logo, we want to separate the colors from each other, so we’ll select “Colors” under the “Multiple Scans” section. The number of scans you specify correlates to the number of objects that Inkscape will create based on the different parts of the image. Since our example is a simple logo with 3 colors, 3 scans will be sufficient. Depending on your image, you’ll have to play around with these settings a bit. For a back and white image, you’ll probably want to use “Brightness Cuttoff” under “Single Scan” and adjust the “Threshold” value until the preview looks correct. Once you click OK, the vector will appear directly on top of the original image, so make sure to drag it off and move or delete the original image. [[File:...traceBitmap.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]&lt;br /&gt;
## You will now have a vector object that consists of several parts. Separate them by right-clicking the vector and selecting “Ungroup” (Ctrl + Shift + G). Now you’ll be able to alter each part of the object. In our example, we’ll go with the one on the right and delete the one on the left.  [[File:...separateParts.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]&lt;br /&gt;
## Now we can manipulate the colors. Select the object and go to [Object] &amp;gt; [Fill and Stroke] (usually it will already be open on the right sidebar). You will see Fill, Stroke Paint, and Stroke Style on the top right. Fill changes the color of a piece, Stroke Paint changes the color of a stroke, and Stroke Style changes the thickness and style of a stroke. You will see values for R, G, and B, which control color. When each color has a 0 next to it, it will be fully black. When the red has a 255 next to it and the others have 0, it will be fully red. The machine will cut material ONLY when it sees a stroke that is 255, 0, 0, and it will engrave material ONLY when it sees 0, 0, 0. Set these values on your object depending on what you want to engrave or cut, and make sure these values are exact before continuing. Anything that you do not want to cut or engrave, either delete or set to white, which is 255, 255, 255. Be sure to make each a “Flat Color” so that the color is constant throughout the entire object.&lt;br /&gt;
## Now that you have an object with the correct fill and stroke, you’ll want to resize it to the size you want. Select your object, and in the top bar of Inkscape you’ll see options for height and width. If you want to scale the object without altering it’s height and width ratios, lock the two together by clicking the lock icon. Measure your material and set the height and width accordingly, or set the values to your desired size. If you imported your file from SolidWorks you shouldn’t need to change these dimensions, just verify that they match the size of your object in SolidWorks. [[File:...Stroke.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]&lt;br /&gt;
## Once you have finished your design, it’s time to send it to the Laser Cutter! Go to [File] &amp;gt; [Print] (Ctrl + P) and make sure it is sending to Trotec Engraver but do not click [OK] yet.  &lt;br /&gt;
## Select [Preferences] to open the engraver properties. Check both “Take From Application” and “Minimize to Jobsize.” These settings tell the program to assume the canvas is the same size as it is in Inkscape and then crop to the size of your print. Also verify “Image Mode” is set to “Color” and “Enhanced Geometries” is not selected. '''NOTE''': “Take From Application” will only work if your Inkscape canvas is square. Make sure to set this correctly, or else set the print size to something larger than either dimension of your print (so long as “Minimize to Jobsize” is enabled.)[[File:...printing.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]&lt;br /&gt;
## Save these settings by selecting the button that shows the JC logo near the bottom of the Printing Preferences and select Print to send the design to Job Control.&lt;br /&gt;
# '''Setting up the Laser Cutter'''&lt;br /&gt;
## Turn on the machine using the power switch located on the back of the machine in the left corner. The machine will go through a startup procedure where the cutting bed lowers and the laser travels to its home position. Note that the lid must be closed for the startup procedure to begin. You will hear be some beeping coming from the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
## Place your material onto the honeycomb table. '''ALWAYS''' place it in a corner, snug against two sides of the bed. This way if something doesn't go quite perfectly in the cutting process you can return the material back to that corner and try again without having to scrap the entire piece.&lt;br /&gt;
## Now it’s time to focus the laser onto your material. Begin by moving the laser head over the middle of your material. Place the focusing tool on the laser head and slowly raise the table until the the focusing tool just barely touches the material. Be sure to raise the bed extra slowly when approaching the focusing tool, so that you can stop the moment you are at the correct height. Use cation, as there is also no safety in place to prevent the material from crashing into the head and damaging this delicate, expensive assembly. The focusing tool will likely fall off the head; this is fine so long as you didn’t overshoot the point at which it first touched. Reference the images below for proper focusing tool placement and laser head controls.[[File:Laser Focus Tool.png|none|thumb|404x404px| Proper placement of the focusing tool. ]][[File:Laser Controls.png|none|thumb|296x296px| Laser control pad. (1) Raise and lower the bed. (2) Move the laser head (5) Air assist. Make sure it is always on to vent fumes properly.   ]]&lt;br /&gt;
## Remove the focusing tool and return it to its home.&lt;br /&gt;
## Press the USB icon found in the bottom right corner of Job Control to connect to the laser cutter. The laser should beep a few times and then a the background of job control will change to a honeycomb pattern to represent the actual honeycomb table. Also, the USB icon will change to a play icon. &lt;br /&gt;
# '''Cutting with Job Control'''&lt;br /&gt;
## After you send your design to Job Control your design will be named with the name of your Inkscape file, which will appear in the “Jobs” window on the right. If you do not see your job (your design), be sure to select [See All] at the bottom of that window. This lets you see files ALL dpi types, rather than just a specific dpi type. You can check the print preview by double clicking the box showing your preview in the bottom right. &lt;br /&gt;
## Using the arrow keys on the laser cutter, move the head until the laser pointer is positioned on your material where you want a corner of your cut to begin. You’ll notice (assuming that you’ve connected the laser cutter to Job Control) that the curser moves within Job Control as you move the laser head.  &lt;br /&gt;
## Double click/drag your job onto the honeycomb area and position it relative to the cursor. You’ll notice that the corners of your job will snap to the cursor.  &lt;br /&gt;
## Move the laser head/cursor around to make sure your job fits onto the material you are using. Move the cursor to the opposite, diagonal corner from the one you started from and make sure that the laser head is not off an edge of the material.  &lt;br /&gt;
## Then select your material at the top left. There are two dropdown menus, one for general material groups, and one for specific material profiles. These settings control the laser’s speed and power which are fine tuned for the material you select.   [[File:Mitch5.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]&lt;br /&gt;
## To see the duration of the job, you can click the Update in the bottom left. You are ready to click the Play button in the bottom right. For bigger jobs, the Laser Cutter will take a little bit of time to read the design. If it does not start immediately, don’t be scared. Just be supportive and it will begin shortly. If it does not start at all, ask for help from the supervisor.&lt;br /&gt;
## Once the job starts, stay with it. Be sure it is actually engraving/cutting the material. Don’t open the lid (or even lean on it) as this causes the job to cancel without the ability to resume it. If the lasercutter is not doing what it should be click pause in the bottom right of Job Control, or stop it entirely with the stop button. Consult the supervisor for assistance. If something has gone very wrong, lifting the lid will immediately stop the machine, though this is not recommended under normal circumstances.[[File:Mitch6.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]&lt;br /&gt;
## After the job is completed reset the space by cleaning out any scrap materials from the bed and deleting the job from job control and Inkscape.&lt;br /&gt;
# '''Cutting with the Rotary Tool'''&lt;br /&gt;
## The Rotary Tool lets you cut and engrave cylindrical objects, the most popular of these being Hydroflasks. This part applies after you have already sent the file from Inkscape to the Laser Cutter.&lt;br /&gt;
## Turn OFF the machine, remove the honeycomb table, and plug in the rotary tool. The rest of the laser cutter setup is the same as above.&lt;br /&gt;
## To start off, go to Settings → Options → Hardware → Accessories. This is where you can switch from the HoneyComb Table to the Rotary Tool and vice versa.  &lt;br /&gt;
## Enter the diameter of your bottle (using the Calipers in the lab), as it tells the Rotary Tool how fast to turn as it engraves. Do not mess this up, or you will have a stretched/squeezed image.    [[File:Rotary 1.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]&lt;br /&gt;
## Once you click OK/apply, the window background will look like the image below.   &lt;br /&gt;
## Double click/drag the job onto the window. It should automatically flip the image so that it will engrave in the proper orientation even though the bottle is held horizontally.  [[File:Rotary2.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]&lt;br /&gt;
## Next, pick the material Hydroflask → Black Mug for a Hydroflask, or one of the glass profiles if engraving glass, and now you are ready to engrave your thing!   &lt;br /&gt;
## When you are finished, RESET THE SPACE! Put the Rotary Tool away and replace it with the HoneyComb Table.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
* Always make sure the material you are using is safe to use. There is an especially high risk when engraving plastics. Fumes from plastics can be toxic. Make sure you find the specific material you are using and check to see if it produces toxic fumes when burned. Never attempt to engrave PVC as it produces chlorine gas (the stuff they used in WWI).&lt;br /&gt;
* Once the laser is focused do not touch the button that raises the bed or the laser will crash into the machine which causes damage to the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
* Be careful when moving the laser head when using the rotary tool because it has protruding parts that will harm the laser cutter if a crash occurs.&lt;br /&gt;
* Keep an eye on active cuts because fires can be started when cutting wood or acrylic with paper covering.&lt;br /&gt;
* If you feel unsure about anything located in the laser cutting procedure make sure to consult the supervisor for assistance.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1223 Canvas Course]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
'''First of all, check your export settings'''&lt;br /&gt;
* There are multiple combinations of settings that will work for export; which means that depending on who was using the machine last, settings may be different. These are the settings I (the ace) have found to work most consistently: Set your Inkscape document to square by going to [File] &amp;gt; [Document Properties] ( Ctl+Shift+D) and set both the Height and Width fields to the same value, bigger than your shape. Why this is an issue is yet unknown, Inkscape just doesn’t like exporting non-square documents with the other settings to follow. Print the document with File &amp;gt; Print or Ctl+P. Click preferences and check both “Take From Application” and “Minimize to Jobsize.” These settings tell the program to assume the canvas is the same size as Inkscape and then crop to the size of your print. Also verify “image mode” is set to “color.” These settings will fix most common issues.&lt;br /&gt;
'''Cuts are not being made'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Some export settings may be incorrect. Verify that your settings are set to those described above. These settings will fix most issues of lines not cutting. &lt;br /&gt;
* Verify that all stokes are set to red with a stroke width between 1pt and .25pt (.25pt recommended) &lt;br /&gt;
* Verify that your print is entirely within the canvas of Inkscape. &lt;br /&gt;
* In Preferences, within Print options, verify “image mode” is set to “color.” Otherwise, your red stokes will not be read as color, and not be seen by the laser cutter. &lt;br /&gt;
'''The cuts did not go all the way through the material'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Are you using the correct material profile? If not, reset the job (described below) and repeat the cut with the correct material profile. If it appears that the cut went partway through the material you may want to use a setting that is less powerful than your material would normally use (again, described below) &lt;br /&gt;
* You should always place your material in a corner. This way, if the cuts do not go all the way through you can reposition it easily. DO NOT MOVE THE JOB in JobControl! If you put the material in a corner, should be able to place the material back where it was, and then reset the job in JobControl by right clicking on the job in JobControl and selecting the reset job option, or by pressing Ctl+R. Next, run the cut again on the smallest thickness setting for your material. For example, if you are cutting 1/4 inch acrylic and it does not cut all the way through, repeat the cut with the 1/8 inch acrylic setting. &lt;br /&gt;
* If you are using the correct material profile for your material and cuts are not going all the way through, please email me and let me know so that I can take a look and fix the settings. ZCogswell18@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
'''The laser went really fast leaving a sort of light engrave rather than a cut'''&lt;br /&gt;
* You did not select the correct material, and the job ran with the ‘standard’ setting. '''DO NOT MOVE THE MATERIAL!''' You can reset the job by right clicking on the job in Job Control and selecting the reset job option, or by pressing Ctl+R. Then, select the correct material in the upper left dropdown menu and run the job again. This way you do not need to reposition the material or job, which you will almost never do perfectly. &lt;br /&gt;
'''The laser repeated the cut multiple times'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Some material profiles, such as half-inch, acrylic are set to repeat the cut line multiple times, as to get a cleaner product. If the cuts look good, this is normal.&lt;br /&gt;
* Are you importing from SolidWorks?  For some reason, SolidWorks likes to have duplicate lines quite often. In Inkscape, click on the cut that was repeated and drag to move it. If you move the line and another line is underneath, you need to delete all duplicates in the file. Often if you have a thin stoke (.25pt) and zoom out, the duplicate lines will be visually darker, allowing you to identify and delete them. &lt;br /&gt;
'''The acrylic is melted or blackened'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Verify that you are using the correct material profile. If you are, for example, cutting 1/4 acrylic with the 1/2 setting, the acrylic will be melted and not give clean cuts. &lt;br /&gt;
* Are you importing from SolidWorks? As mentioned above, “''For some reason, SolidWorks likes to have duplicate lines quite often. In Inkscape, click on the cut that was repeated and drag to move it. If you move the line and another line is underneath, you need to delete all duplicates in the file. Often if you have a thin stoke (.25pt) and zoom out, the duplicate lines will be visually darker, allowing you to identify and delete them.”''&lt;br /&gt;
'''Cuts are not clean'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Is the machine focused properly for your material? If you’re not sure, or even if you are (you may have bumped the bed control buttons accidentally) refocus it. &lt;br /&gt;
* Check the lens for dust because this can interfere with the laser. If it is dirty, see the maintenance section on how to clean it. &lt;br /&gt;
'''The material is being cut in unintended places''' &lt;br /&gt;
* Check your Inkscape file and make sure there are no red stokes in places you did not want&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure there are no other jobs on the work area (grey rectangles in the honeycomb area of JobControl). If there are, drag them back into the list on the right side or delete them&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To keep the laser cutter running and cutting smoothly, the mirror and lens should be periodically cleaned. This is on top of the general cleaning that should be done to keep the machine dust and scrap free. There is also filters in the exhaust system that must be changed once the activated carbon has been used up. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
!Last Done&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1&lt;br /&gt;
|General cleaning &lt;br /&gt;
|As needed after a cut&lt;br /&gt;
|Student &lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean the Mirror &lt;br /&gt;
|As needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean the Lens &lt;br /&gt;
|As needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4&lt;br /&gt;
|Change Filters &lt;br /&gt;
|When filter usage reaches 100%&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
# The honeycomb should be removed and the metal bed itself should be should be swept/cleaned more or less daily. Cleaners are available to help in this process. Green is general cleaning use this for the bed and metal surfaces. Blue is glass cleaner, use this for the plexiglass surfaces. The front door of the Speedy 300 may be removed using the spring loaded pin on the right to remove cut pieces stuck in the door. The air vents at the rear of the machine should be kept clean of debris. Clean in a manner similar to the bed.&lt;br /&gt;
# The lense, mirror, and cone should be inspected daily or more often as needed, especially after wood or other “dusty”/”smokey” materials are cut. The lense will need cleaning when particles are visible on the surface (hold up to light if need be). The lense may be removed using the threaded nut below the lense (see photo). The lense should be cleaned with the lense paper and cleaner available in the kit (lasercutter drawer) on both sides. Put some cleaner on the lense and gently rub the paper over the surface of the lense. The cone itself threads into the assembly below the lense nut. The cone may be cleaned with a paper towel and water or another cleaning agent. The mirror should be inspected and cleaned in the same manner as the lense.&lt;br /&gt;
# See above.&lt;br /&gt;
# The air filter to the right of the Speedy 300 will occasionally need maintenance. The most common issue is a full pre-filter. This will be indicated on the filter itself by poor airflow/suction. When replacing this, use a face mask and gloves (close the lab when doing this). Open the top of the air filter with the large 10mm hex wrench in the kit. Remove the prefilter and place it in a bag for disposal. Insert a new prefilter and close the lid. Pre-filters are used to increase the lifespan of other, harder to replace and more expensive filters in the system. Less often, other filters will need replacing. These include the larger box filter, additional pre-filter-type mat filters, and activated carbon. This should not need to happen as often. Follow the above procedure for pre-filter and the [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJkCgAVbAEU&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be video] to replace the full filter setup. Be careful not to spill activate carbon if doing a full replacement, it is difficult to clean up.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prusa_3D_Printer&amp;diff=9021</id>
		<title>Prusa 3D Printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prusa_3D_Printer&amp;diff=9021"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T16:39:52Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
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&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
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[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|170px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
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__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Description ==&lt;br /&gt;
The Prusa i3 MK3 is a 3D printer that includes a removable heatbed, filament sensor, and other unique features in order to rapidly prototype projects. The Prusa i3 MK3 comes in two different variants, single filament, and multi filament. It employs [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing Anchor|FDM Printing]]. The Prusa i3 MK3 is a powerful prototyping device that works best with smaller prints, with the print bed being approximately 8&amp;quot; x 8&amp;quot; x 9&amp;quot;. The Prusa has a hard time with more complex geometric shapes, but it excels at printing smaller optimal quality models for testing and trying out products or ideas.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jizyu0nGH18}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Documentation ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== User manuals ====&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-mk3/ Product Home Page]&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mk3_en_3_04.pdf Prusa i3 MK3 Guide]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== '''Terminology''' ====&lt;br /&gt;
* Nozzle/Extruder: The nozzle (or extruder) is the part of a 3D printer which deposits the molten plastic filament onto the 3D printer bed. The extruder can reach 200°-300°C, depending on the filament used, but typically stays around 215°C for regular prints.&lt;br /&gt;
* Heatbed: The heatbed is a 9.83&amp;quot; x 8.3&amp;quot; x 8.3&amp;quot; plate where the filament will be &amp;quot;printed&amp;quot; on. The bed heats up to around 60°C. Heated beds typically prevent the plastic from warping by keeping it warm. Warping is a common issue that happens on 3D printers, where the plastic of the print cools at an uneven rate, leaving the print wavy and not the way you intended.&lt;br /&gt;
* Feeder: The feeder is the part of the 3D printer that &amp;quot;feeds&amp;quot; the filament to the nozzle. Sometimes &amp;quot;feeder&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;extruder&amp;quot; are used synonomously, so it's important when you're teaching someone to differentiate whether or not you're talking about the ''nozzle'' extruder or the ''feeder'' extruder. Feeders are typically composed of stepper motors, gears, and sometimes bolts and pulleys to guide the filament to the hot end.&lt;br /&gt;
* Fan: There are usually two fans on the nozzle of a 3D printer, and they serve the purpose of cooling the plastic as soon as it comes out of the nozzle. If the plastic is super hot, we don't want it to move as soon as it is in place on the part we're making, otherwise our part will turn out warped or failed. The fans are put in place to strategically cool the plastic as soon as it comes out of the nozzle. You are able to turn the fan speeds up and down in the slicer software (if that is a provided feature), but you can manually configure it on the printer as well.&lt;br /&gt;
* Stepper Motor: There are two main places where you'll find stepper motors on a 3D printer. There's a motor for each axes, one for the x, y, and z. These motors receive instructions from the gcode to move the certain axes at certain points to create your print. There is also a stepper motor in the extruder setup, pushing and pulling the filament whenever more or less is needed for the current print.&lt;br /&gt;
* Infill: Infill has to do with a 3D print's structural integrity. It can be multiple shapes and patterns (providing different strength optimizations), different sizes, and different thicknesses. Infill ranges anywhere from 0% (hollow) to 100% (solid). It is very unlikely you'll ever want a print to be 100% infill, because it takes an insane amount of filament and a lot of time to complete. Most 3D prints are 15% infill since it is the most optimal choice for cost efficiency and durability. If your concern is cost, a lesser infill density is a good way to go. If strength and mass is important, a higher density (between 30%-50%) is a good estimate. When using a higher infill, always double check to make sure it's a good idea for your part, and that you're using the right machine. Other 3D printers in the prototype lab have the option of a stronger filament than PLA or ABS, so it may be a better idea to print for strength on those rather than the Prusas.&lt;br /&gt;
* Filament: There are many different kinds of filament you can use on the 3D printer, ranging from PLA, to ABS, TPU to Nylon. The most common of these are PLA and ABS; the Prusas are usually set up with PLA. PLA stands for Polylactic Acid, it is the most common desktop 3D printing filament because it is odorless and very hard to warp on its own, therefore not always a need for a heated bed. ABS stands for Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene. It's one of the most commercial versions of plastic available (found in legos, packaging, and more)--it's durable, scratch resistant, and tough. Heated beds are a must with ABS filament because it is so temperature sensitive, so it warps very easily. The Prusas use 1.75 mm filament.&lt;br /&gt;
* CAD Modeling and Thingiverse: There are two ways you can 3D print models. You can either design your own with a CAD (computer-aided design) software, or you can find something similar to what you want on websites like Thingiverse. Thingiverse has all sorts of community-contributed designs, which you can download the .stl files for, slice, and print the models. As for modeling your own projects, there are multiple softwares you can use such as SolidWorks, AutoCAD, Autodesk Inventor, FreeCAD, and many more.&lt;br /&gt;
* Slicing: Each 3D printer uses a slicer software, a software where you can import the model file (usually an .stl file) onto a computerized build plate, resize, change up the nozzle and bed temperatures, adjust the infill and precision, and more. The slicer software takes into consideration all your configurations, then &amp;quot;slices&amp;quot; it into a .gcode file, a set of instructions for the x, y, and z dimensions. The 3D printer can read and tell the stepper motors what to do from the set of instructions within the gcode. The slicer software used for the Prusa i3 MK3 is called Prusa Slicer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Training ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Operation ====&lt;br /&gt;
Printing on the Prusa will always start with an STL file that you export from Solidworks or download from the internet. However, the printer cannot interpret a STL file and must be converted to a gcode file which instructs the printer on how to complete the print. The process of creating a gcode is called &amp;quot;slicing&amp;quot; and is done in the Prusa Slicer software. Prusa Slicer allows you to customize any part of the print process and is color coded to distinguish simple settings from expert settings so you can tell which settings can be adjusted without risk of messing things up. For the most part, the preset setting options will work well but feel free to experiment with settings to improve print detail or speed (check out [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kW9SnK4LKc this video] for example). After you have sliced your STL file the rest of the setup is simple. Save the new gcode to the SD card found in the printer, turn on the machine, select &amp;quot;print from SD card&amp;quot; to find your file, and then click to start the print. Make sure to clean the print bed with isopropyl alcohol before the print starts and watch the print for the first five minutes to make sure it doesn't fail. Also, the video below walks through the setup process in detail starting from downloading a stl file which is helpful.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ttg2wEjD784&amp;amp;list=PLP1rv37BojTfJ5TjDXiSNqDnEPnvChsYZ&amp;amp;index=11}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Demonstration ====&lt;br /&gt;
The student will need download, setup, and successfully start a print of their choice, providing it is within reason and follows Prototype Lab guidelines. If possible, they should stay as long as possible in case a print fails, which will be an opportunity to teach them basic troubleshooting of the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== General Procedure ====&lt;br /&gt;
Setting up a print:&lt;br /&gt;
# Once you have a model you would like to print (which you can find on either thingiverse or model one yourself), you will be using a software called Prusa Slicer to slice your .stl files into a .gcode file, which the printer will interpret and print your model from.&lt;br /&gt;
# Open Prusa Slicer. When you open Prusa Slicer, it looks like this:[[File:Slicer Home.png|none|thumb|1108x1108px]]At the top, you have your basic toolbar where you can import files and fine tune print settings. The toolbar on the left side of the screen is used for rotating/orienting, moving, scaling, and even cutting the model. The window on the right side of the screen is used to select the printer being used and select preset print settings. You can also choose between simple, advanced, and expert settings in this window. Feel free to select any of these modes. Throughout the software each setting is color coded to match these skill levels to make it easy to tell which settings are simplest to adjust. &lt;br /&gt;
#To import your file, click on &amp;quot;File &amp;gt; Import &amp;gt; Import STL&amp;quot;, and you'll be presented with your file system to choose whatever model you have ready. Click &amp;quot;open&amp;quot; to import the file.&lt;br /&gt;
#Once the model is imported you will need to orient it correctly. The toolbar on the left has two options for doing this. One is the basic rotate tool which allows you to rotate a specific number of degrees around any axis. You can drag the model with this tool as well but this is not advised because you may not line the face up with the print bed properly which may result in print errors. If you do not know the rotation angle you need use the second option, place on face, to rotate one face of your model to match the print bed. The correct orientation will change based on your model so make sure to check out the short video below for some tips.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGhgaypou6E&amp;amp;list=PLTCCNNvHC8PDR_jQy609toqq8EAfhiOOL&amp;amp;index=26}}&lt;br /&gt;
#Set the rest of the object setting using the left toolbar.&lt;br /&gt;
#* In the Position settings, you can adjust where on the printer bed you would like your print to start. Due to automatic bed leveling, the center of the printer bed is always the best place to put your model. If you are printing multiple parts, then arrange everything from the center outwards. You can click and drag your model around and see the change in the X and Y coordinates, and if you need it to be super precise, you can use the keyboard to change the values in the Position settings.&lt;br /&gt;
#* Scale is important, it determines how large you want your print to be. If you modeled your print to specific dimensions, Prusa Slicer will import it with the correct dimensions, and you can skip this section. If it is too large, you can scale the model down to 70%-90% and see how that affects the size, and vice versa, changing the scale to 110%-130% if need be.&lt;br /&gt;
#Set the correct printer settings.&lt;br /&gt;
#* Below is the settings you'll most likely be working with, such as the material, quality, infill, support, and sizing.[[File:Basic Settings.png|none|thumb]]On the Prusa's, we currently only use PLA, so we'll always be keeping the Material option as Prusa PLA.&lt;br /&gt;
#* The quality of the print has to do with the size of each individual layer. The finer the quality, the longer the time is to print your model. Almost always you'll want your print to be Optimal quality (0.15mm), since about all prints turn out good with that setting, but you can choose from several other presets as well. A smaller layer height will allow for more definition in the vertical plane but will take longer to print. Each layer height has a preset for fast and quality that you can choose from based on your print needs. If you are feeling adventurous then the pint and printer settings can be individually adjusted instead of using a preset. &lt;br /&gt;
#* Next, you'll change the infill. If you don't know how much infill you need, check out the definition of infill above or talk to the supervisor for help. This option will almost always stay at 15% infill.&lt;br /&gt;
#* Now we come to support! Support is extra material printed around your model to support tougher geometric angles and overhangs that the printer can't get to on its own. It is easily torn off at the end of the print.&lt;br /&gt;
#* The Brim option is for bed adhesion. You will typically want this option, since it helps prevent the warping of the part you are printing. A brim is most important for prints that have a small surface area that is in contact with the plate.&lt;br /&gt;
# When all those settings are complete, you can click &amp;quot;Slice now&amp;quot; in the bottom right corner, and Slicer will give you a time and filament estimate for your print. If they seem reasonable, you can save the newly &amp;quot;sliced&amp;quot; .gcode file to the SD card that will go into the printer! Do this by clicking  &amp;quot;Export G code.&amp;quot; You can always go back and adjust the settings to fit your time and/or filament needs before saving the file. &lt;br /&gt;
Starting a Print: &lt;br /&gt;
# Thoroughly clean the build plate with isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel. &lt;br /&gt;
# Once you have the gcode file on the SD card, put the SD card into the Prusa (on the left side of the orange menu), and turn the printer on using the power switch on the left side of the printer. The printer will read the SD card and initialize itself, then you can start. &lt;br /&gt;
# In the menu, there is an option you want called &amp;quot;Print from SD Card&amp;quot; that will take you to a list of all the .gcode files on the SD card. Select this by rotating the knob until this option is highlighted and then press down on the knob. &lt;br /&gt;
# Search until you find your file, and then select it.  &lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure there is enough filament on the printer for your print, or it will fail midway! &lt;br /&gt;
# Naturally, the printer will set itself up for PLA settings, which is approximately 215°C for the extruder, and 60°C for the heated bed. This will take a few minutes. Often filament will start oozing out of the nozzle once it is fully heated, but don't worry, the printer will clean off the filament after calibration. If these temperatures are not correct, click to open a menu and the scroll to the &amp;quot;Tune&amp;quot; option. From there the temperatures can be adjusted.  &lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure that there are no filament strings attached to the nozzle as the print is starting. &lt;br /&gt;
# Watch the print for at least 5 minutes to make sure it adheres properly and then every 5 minutes for the next 20 minutes. &lt;br /&gt;
Finishing a Print:&lt;br /&gt;
# When the print completes successfully, the Prusa will delightfully present the print by moving the print bed forward, and the extruder will go back to the homing location. On the menu screen it will display how long the last print took, and the other normal settings like the temperature of the print bed and nozzle. &lt;br /&gt;
# To get the print off of the bed, take the magnetic steel bed off and bend it just slightly to pop the brim of the print off of the bed. From there you can take the print off carefully by hand.&lt;br /&gt;
# If the print was successful, congratulations! If not, time to diagnose the problem and try again.&lt;br /&gt;
# Put the magnetic bed back onto the Prusa, and if there are no more prints needing to be done, power it off.&lt;br /&gt;
Loading New Filament:&lt;br /&gt;
# When the printer runs out of filament, typically you'll want to find a shop aid to help you change the filament.&lt;br /&gt;
# All you need to do is go to the menu, select the &amp;quot;Unload Filament&amp;quot; option, and the printer should start heating up.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once it heats up, it'll unload the filament and you can pull it out of the extruder.&lt;br /&gt;
# As for loading new filament, find the option in the menu labelled &amp;quot;Autoload Filament&amp;quot;, and the printer will walk you through the instructions for loading the new spool of filament.&lt;br /&gt;
Pausing or Stopping a Print:&lt;br /&gt;
# To pause a print in the middle of the job, press the knob and it'll pull up a printing menu. There are two options near the bottom, &amp;quot;Stop Print&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Pause Print&amp;quot;. If the print is failing, you definitely want to stop it. If you need to change filament or think you can save the print before it fails anymore, you can pause the print.&lt;br /&gt;
Possible Print Failure Causes:&lt;br /&gt;
# Failure of material to adhere to the bed.&lt;br /&gt;
# No support around the model.&lt;br /&gt;
# The first layer of the print warps.&lt;br /&gt;
# The brim gets torn and dragged around&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==TVs==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Looking for a project that uses the Prusa 3D printer? Check out this TV for an [[Egg Shaker]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Safety ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Be careful what you touch; the nozzle and filament leaving it are over 200°C which will easily cause burns. Although only 60°C, the build plate should not be touched during printing.&lt;br /&gt;
* Keep hands away from the travel rods because they will pinch fingers with ease.&lt;br /&gt;
* Support material can be sharp so be careful when removing it. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Certification ==&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1233 Prusa Canvas Course]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Troubleshooting ==&lt;br /&gt;
Here are some ways your print can fail in the beginning, and how to troubleshoot it:&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Brim is pulled off of bed and dragged around by the nozzle:''' If it's just starting the brim of the print and having trouble adhering to the bed, you can pull off the first few rounds of the brim and let the print continue. Sometimes the outer part of the brim has more trouble adhering than the inner parts. If it continues to fail, stop the print. Make sure you have the best orientation possible for your part, make sure the nozzle of the printer is clean, and try starting the print again. If it continues to fail, find a supervisor to help you.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Parts of the print detach mid-print:''' Stop the print. Often if parts of the print detach from the model it is due to failure to adhere to support. Ask a supervisor if the geometry of your part is too complex for the Prusas. If not, adjust the sizing, change around some support settings, and try the print again. If it continues to fail, try to break the part into smaller prints and assemble them when done.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Extruded filament is too thin/not adhering to layers OR Filament will not come out of nozzle:''' When the filament is too thin or not coming out, there is often a blockage or small piece of filament in the extruder. Ask a supervisor for help.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Print will not adhere to bed:''' If your 3D print will not adhere to the bed after lots of tries, the last resort can be some glue stick. For trickier prints with small bases, sometimes this is the trick. Always make sure you try the brim option before using the glue stick on the printer. When the print is finished, clean off the printer bed.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Support fails:''' If the support gets really stringy as the print continues and in turn fails the print, see if you can have a supervisor help you change the density of the support. Double check that the printer is not shaking too much as you print your model. If you still don't know what to do after your print fails, ask a supervisor.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''First layer of print warps:''' If the first layer of your print warps and affects the rest of your print, lower the bed temperature, and start the print again. If it continues to warp, try adding some adhesive on the printer bed. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''Thermal Runaway:''' Thermal Runaway is a safety feature designed to prevent the printer from accidentally catching fire. If your printer's thermistor would somehow dislodge itself, electronic parts would get a lower (incorrect) temperature reading. In an attempt to compensate for the lower temperature, the heater would reach dangerously high temperatures, with the printer potentially becoming a fire hazard. Thermal Runaway prevents that from happening. Thermal Runaway is configured to shut down the printer when the temperature drops by more than 15°C for more than 45 seconds. If the temperature reading doesn't recover in the set time period, the printer will shut down and display the Thermal Runaway error. All hotend heaters are thoroughly tested, so they can run at 200°C with the print cooling fan at a 100% speed. To print materials that require higher temperatures (like PLA at 215°C), the speed of the fan must be decreased in the Prusa Slicer software or manually during the print. Incorrect fan speeds are sometimes the result of using gcode from a different type of printer. Pay attention to your prints as they start the second layer, as this is usually when the print cooling fan kicks in. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your issue or error is not found here, ask the supervisor for help, or you can research on this website: https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#section-fdm-3d-printing-problems-my-print-failed&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Failed Calibration:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the printer fails while calibrating, there will be an error message that suggests you clean the nozzle off and retry the print. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Crash Detected:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the nozzle hits something it's not used to, such as an obstruction in the print, the print bed, or something else that stops the extruder from moving, the printer will error and say it crashed. It will ask you to clean off any excess filament and stuff that gets in the way of the extruder. If it continues to fail because of a crash, ask a supervisor for help.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Maintenance ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Specific Maintenance Tasks ====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1&lt;br /&gt;
|Wiping Down Buildplate&lt;br /&gt;
|Before every new print&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2&lt;br /&gt;
|Cleaning of Nozzle&lt;br /&gt;
|When needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean and lubricate travel rods&lt;br /&gt;
|When needed &lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
# Grab a paper towel from the sink and the isopropyl alcohol from next to the Formlabs printer. Use these to wipe down the build plate and make sure you do not touch the plate after doing this because that will get oils on it. &lt;br /&gt;
# Raise the print head in the z axis until the nozzle is easily accessible. Use tweezers, paper towels, isopropyl alcohol, or any other substances to remove filament from the nozzle. If the nozzle is clogged, use a wrench to remove it and clean out any filament inside. A heat gun may be helpful for this. &lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe down the smooth travel rods with a paper towel and then re-lubricate them. Clean the threaded rods with a brush and then re-lubricate them.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prusa_3D_Printer&amp;diff=9020</id>
		<title>Prusa 3D Printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prusa_3D_Printer&amp;diff=9020"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T16:39:42Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
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__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Description ==&lt;br /&gt;
The Prusa i3 MK3 is a 3D printer that includes a removable heatbed, filament sensor, and other unique features in order to rapidly prototype projects. The Prusa i3 MK3 comes in two different variants, single filament, and multi filament. It employs [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing Anchor|FDM Printing]]. The Prusa i3 MK3 is a powerful prototyping device that works best with smaller prints, with the print bed being approximately 8&amp;quot; x 8&amp;quot; x 9&amp;quot;. The Prusa has a hard time with more complex geometric shapes, but it excels at printing smaller optimal quality models for testing and trying out products or ideas.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jizyu0nGH18}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Documentation ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== User manuals ====&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-mk3/ Product Home Page]&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mk3_en_3_04.pdf Prusa i3 MK3 Guide]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== '''Terminology''' ====&lt;br /&gt;
* Nozzle/Extruder: The nozzle (or extruder) is the part of a 3D printer which deposits the molten plastic filament onto the 3D printer bed. The extruder can reach 200°-300°C, depending on the filament used, but typically stays around 215°C for regular prints.&lt;br /&gt;
* Heatbed: The heatbed is a 9.83&amp;quot; x 8.3&amp;quot; x 8.3&amp;quot; plate where the filament will be &amp;quot;printed&amp;quot; on. The bed heats up to around 60°C. Heated beds typically prevent the plastic from warping by keeping it warm. Warping is a common issue that happens on 3D printers, where the plastic of the print cools at an uneven rate, leaving the print wavy and not the way you intended.&lt;br /&gt;
* Feeder: The feeder is the part of the 3D printer that &amp;quot;feeds&amp;quot; the filament to the nozzle. Sometimes &amp;quot;feeder&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;extruder&amp;quot; are used synonomously, so it's important when you're teaching someone to differentiate whether or not you're talking about the ''nozzle'' extruder or the ''feeder'' extruder. Feeders are typically composed of stepper motors, gears, and sometimes bolts and pulleys to guide the filament to the hot end.&lt;br /&gt;
* Fan: There are usually two fans on the nozzle of a 3D printer, and they serve the purpose of cooling the plastic as soon as it comes out of the nozzle. If the plastic is super hot, we don't want it to move as soon as it is in place on the part we're making, otherwise our part will turn out warped or failed. The fans are put in place to strategically cool the plastic as soon as it comes out of the nozzle. You are able to turn the fan speeds up and down in the slicer software (if that is a provided feature), but you can manually configure it on the printer as well.&lt;br /&gt;
* Stepper Motor: There are two main places where you'll find stepper motors on a 3D printer. There's a motor for each axes, one for the x, y, and z. These motors receive instructions from the gcode to move the certain axes at certain points to create your print. There is also a stepper motor in the extruder setup, pushing and pulling the filament whenever more or less is needed for the current print.&lt;br /&gt;
* Infill: Infill has to do with a 3D print's structural integrity. It can be multiple shapes and patterns (providing different strength optimizations), different sizes, and different thicknesses. Infill ranges anywhere from 0% (hollow) to 100% (solid). It is very unlikely you'll ever want a print to be 100% infill, because it takes an insane amount of filament and a lot of time to complete. Most 3D prints are 15% infill since it is the most optimal choice for cost efficiency and durability. If your concern is cost, a lesser infill density is a good way to go. If strength and mass is important, a higher density (between 30%-50%) is a good estimate. When using a higher infill, always double check to make sure it's a good idea for your part, and that you're using the right machine. Other 3D printers in the prototype lab have the option of a stronger filament than PLA or ABS, so it may be a better idea to print for strength on those rather than the Prusas.&lt;br /&gt;
* Filament: There are many different kinds of filament you can use on the 3D printer, ranging from PLA, to ABS, TPU to Nylon. The most common of these are PLA and ABS; the Prusas are usually set up with PLA. PLA stands for Polylactic Acid, it is the most common desktop 3D printing filament because it is odorless and very hard to warp on its own, therefore not always a need for a heated bed. ABS stands for Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene. It's one of the most commercial versions of plastic available (found in legos, packaging, and more)--it's durable, scratch resistant, and tough. Heated beds are a must with ABS filament because it is so temperature sensitive, so it warps very easily. The Prusas use 1.75 mm filament.&lt;br /&gt;
* CAD Modeling and Thingiverse: There are two ways you can 3D print models. You can either design your own with a CAD (computer-aided design) software, or you can find something similar to what you want on websites like Thingiverse. Thingiverse has all sorts of community-contributed designs, which you can download the .stl files for, slice, and print the models. As for modeling your own projects, there are multiple softwares you can use such as SolidWorks, AutoCAD, Autodesk Inventor, FreeCAD, and many more.&lt;br /&gt;
* Slicing: Each 3D printer uses a slicer software, a software where you can import the model file (usually an .stl file) onto a computerized build plate, resize, change up the nozzle and bed temperatures, adjust the infill and precision, and more. The slicer software takes into consideration all your configurations, then &amp;quot;slices&amp;quot; it into a .gcode file, a set of instructions for the x, y, and z dimensions. The 3D printer can read and tell the stepper motors what to do from the set of instructions within the gcode. The slicer software used for the Prusa i3 MK3 is called Prusa Slicer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Training ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Operation ====&lt;br /&gt;
Printing on the Prusa will always start with an STL file that you export from Solidworks or download from the internet. However, the printer cannot interpret a STL file and must be converted to a gcode file which instructs the printer on how to complete the print. The process of creating a gcode is called &amp;quot;slicing&amp;quot; and is done in the Prusa Slicer software. Prusa Slicer allows you to customize any part of the print process and is color coded to distinguish simple settings from expert settings so you can tell which settings can be adjusted without risk of messing things up. For the most part, the preset setting options will work well but feel free to experiment with settings to improve print detail or speed (check out [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kW9SnK4LKc this video] for example). After you have sliced your STL file the rest of the setup is simple. Save the new gcode to the SD card found in the printer, turn on the machine, select &amp;quot;print from SD card&amp;quot; to find your file, and then click to start the print. Make sure to clean the print bed with isopropyl alcohol before the print starts and watch the print for the first five minutes to make sure it doesn't fail. Also, the video below walks through the setup process in detail starting from downloading a stl file which is helpful.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ttg2wEjD784&amp;amp;list=PLP1rv37BojTfJ5TjDXiSNqDnEPnvChsYZ&amp;amp;index=11}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Demonstration ====&lt;br /&gt;
The student will need download, setup, and successfully start a print of their choice, providing it is within reason and follows Prototype Lab guidelines. If possible, they should stay as long as possible in case a print fails, which will be an opportunity to teach them basic troubleshooting of the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== General Procedure ====&lt;br /&gt;
Setting up a print:&lt;br /&gt;
# Once you have a model you would like to print (which you can find on either thingiverse or model one yourself), you will be using a software called Prusa Slicer to slice your .stl files into a .gcode file, which the printer will interpret and print your model from.&lt;br /&gt;
# Open Prusa Slicer. When you open Prusa Slicer, it looks like this:[[File:Slicer Home.png|none|thumb|1108x1108px]]At the top, you have your basic toolbar where you can import files and fine tune print settings. The toolbar on the left side of the screen is used for rotating/orienting, moving, scaling, and even cutting the model. The window on the right side of the screen is used to select the printer being used and select preset print settings. You can also choose between simple, advanced, and expert settings in this window. Feel free to select any of these modes. Throughout the software each setting is color coded to match these skill levels to make it easy to tell which settings are simplest to adjust. &lt;br /&gt;
#To import your file, click on &amp;quot;File &amp;gt; Import &amp;gt; Import STL&amp;quot;, and you'll be presented with your file system to choose whatever model you have ready. Click &amp;quot;open&amp;quot; to import the file.&lt;br /&gt;
#Once the model is imported you will need to orient it correctly. The toolbar on the left has two options for doing this. One is the basic rotate tool which allows you to rotate a specific number of degrees around any axis. You can drag the model with this tool as well but this is not advised because you may not line the face up with the print bed properly which may result in print errors. If you do not know the rotation angle you need use the second option, place on face, to rotate one face of your model to match the print bed. The correct orientation will change based on your model so make sure to check out the short video below for some tips.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGhgaypou6E&amp;amp;list=PLTCCNNvHC8PDR_jQy609toqq8EAfhiOOL&amp;amp;index=26}}&lt;br /&gt;
#Set the rest of the object setting using the left toolbar.&lt;br /&gt;
#* In the Position settings, you can adjust where on the printer bed you would like your print to start. Due to automatic bed leveling, the center of the printer bed is always the best place to put your model. If you are printing multiple parts, then arrange everything from the center outwards. You can click and drag your model around and see the change in the X and Y coordinates, and if you need it to be super precise, you can use the keyboard to change the values in the Position settings.&lt;br /&gt;
#* Scale is important, it determines how large you want your print to be. If you modeled your print to specific dimensions, Prusa Slicer will import it with the correct dimensions, and you can skip this section. If it is too large, you can scale the model down to 70%-90% and see how that affects the size, and vice versa, changing the scale to 110%-130% if need be.&lt;br /&gt;
#Set the correct printer settings.&lt;br /&gt;
#* Below is the settings you'll most likely be working with, such as the material, quality, infill, support, and sizing.[[File:Basic Settings.png|none|thumb]]On the Prusa's, we currently only use PLA, so we'll always be keeping the Material option as Prusa PLA.&lt;br /&gt;
#* The quality of the print has to do with the size of each individual layer. The finer the quality, the longer the time is to print your model. Almost always you'll want your print to be Optimal quality (0.15mm), since about all prints turn out good with that setting, but you can choose from several other presets as well. A smaller layer height will allow for more definition in the vertical plane but will take longer to print. Each layer height has a preset for fast and quality that you can choose from based on your print needs. If you are feeling adventurous then the pint and printer settings can be individually adjusted instead of using a preset. &lt;br /&gt;
#* Next, you'll change the infill. If you don't know how much infill you need, check out the definition of infill above or talk to the supervisor for help. This option will almost always stay at 15% infill.&lt;br /&gt;
#* Now we come to support! Support is extra material printed around your model to support tougher geometric angles and overhangs that the printer can't get to on its own. It is easily torn off at the end of the print.&lt;br /&gt;
#* The Brim option is for bed adhesion. You will typically want this option, since it helps prevent the warping of the part you are printing. A brim is most important for prints that have a small surface area that is in contact with the plate.&lt;br /&gt;
# When all those settings are complete, you can click &amp;quot;Slice now&amp;quot; in the bottom right corner, and Slicer will give you a time and filament estimate for your print. If they seem reasonable, you can save the newly &amp;quot;sliced&amp;quot; .gcode file to the SD card that will go into the printer! Do this by clicking  &amp;quot;Export G code.&amp;quot; You can always go back and adjust the settings to fit your time and/or filament needs before saving the file. &lt;br /&gt;
Starting a Print: &lt;br /&gt;
# Thoroughly clean the build plate with isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel. &lt;br /&gt;
# Once you have the gcode file on the SD card, put the SD card into the Prusa (on the left side of the orange menu), and turn the printer on using the power switch on the left side of the printer. The printer will read the SD card and initialize itself, then you can start. &lt;br /&gt;
# In the menu, there is an option you want called &amp;quot;Print from SD Card&amp;quot; that will take you to a list of all the .gcode files on the SD card. Select this by rotating the knob until this option is highlighted and then press down on the knob. &lt;br /&gt;
# Search until you find your file, and then select it.  &lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure there is enough filament on the printer for your print, or it will fail midway! &lt;br /&gt;
# Naturally, the printer will set itself up for PLA settings, which is approximately 215°C for the extruder, and 60°C for the heated bed. This will take a few minutes. Often filament will start oozing out of the nozzle once it is fully heated, but don't worry, the printer will clean off the filament after calibration. If these temperatures are not correct, click to open a menu and the scroll to the &amp;quot;Tune&amp;quot; option. From there the temperatures can be adjusted.  &lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure that there are no filament strings attached to the nozzle as the print is starting. &lt;br /&gt;
# Watch the print for at least 5 minutes to make sure it adheres properly and then every 5 minutes for the next 20 minutes. &lt;br /&gt;
Finishing a Print:&lt;br /&gt;
# When the print completes successfully, the Prusa will delightfully present the print by moving the print bed forward, and the extruder will go back to the homing location. On the menu screen it will display how long the last print took, and the other normal settings like the temperature of the print bed and nozzle. &lt;br /&gt;
# To get the print off of the bed, take the magnetic steel bed off and bend it just slightly to pop the brim of the print off of the bed. From there you can take the print off carefully by hand.&lt;br /&gt;
# If the print was successful, congratulations! If not, time to diagnose the problem and try again.&lt;br /&gt;
# Put the magnetic bed back onto the Prusa, and if there are no more prints needing to be done, power it off.&lt;br /&gt;
Loading New Filament:&lt;br /&gt;
# When the printer runs out of filament, typically you'll want to find a shop aid to help you change the filament.&lt;br /&gt;
# All you need to do is go to the menu, select the &amp;quot;Unload Filament&amp;quot; option, and the printer should start heating up.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once it heats up, it'll unload the filament and you can pull it out of the extruder.&lt;br /&gt;
# As for loading new filament, find the option in the menu labelled &amp;quot;Autoload Filament&amp;quot;, and the printer will walk you through the instructions for loading the new spool of filament.&lt;br /&gt;
Pausing or Stopping a Print:&lt;br /&gt;
# To pause a print in the middle of the job, press the knob and it'll pull up a printing menu. There are two options near the bottom, &amp;quot;Stop Print&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Pause Print&amp;quot;. If the print is failing, you definitely want to stop it. If you need to change filament or think you can save the print before it fails anymore, you can pause the print.&lt;br /&gt;
Possible Print Failure Causes:&lt;br /&gt;
# Failure of material to adhere to the bed.&lt;br /&gt;
# No support around the model.&lt;br /&gt;
# The first layer of the print warps.&lt;br /&gt;
# The brim gets torn and dragged around&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==TVs==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Looking for a project that uses the Prusa 3D printer? Check out this TV for an [[Egg Shaker]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Safety ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Be careful what you touch; the nozzle and filament leaving it are over 200°C which will easily cause burns. Although only 60°C, the build plate should not be touched during printing.&lt;br /&gt;
* Keep hands away from the travel rods because they will pinch fingers with ease.&lt;br /&gt;
* Support material can be sharp so be careful when removing it. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Certification ==&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1233 Prusa FoxTALE Course]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Troubleshooting ==&lt;br /&gt;
Here are some ways your print can fail in the beginning, and how to troubleshoot it:&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Brim is pulled off of bed and dragged around by the nozzle:''' If it's just starting the brim of the print and having trouble adhering to the bed, you can pull off the first few rounds of the brim and let the print continue. Sometimes the outer part of the brim has more trouble adhering than the inner parts. If it continues to fail, stop the print. Make sure you have the best orientation possible for your part, make sure the nozzle of the printer is clean, and try starting the print again. If it continues to fail, find a supervisor to help you.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Parts of the print detach mid-print:''' Stop the print. Often if parts of the print detach from the model it is due to failure to adhere to support. Ask a supervisor if the geometry of your part is too complex for the Prusas. If not, adjust the sizing, change around some support settings, and try the print again. If it continues to fail, try to break the part into smaller prints and assemble them when done.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Extruded filament is too thin/not adhering to layers OR Filament will not come out of nozzle:''' When the filament is too thin or not coming out, there is often a blockage or small piece of filament in the extruder. Ask a supervisor for help.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Print will not adhere to bed:''' If your 3D print will not adhere to the bed after lots of tries, the last resort can be some glue stick. For trickier prints with small bases, sometimes this is the trick. Always make sure you try the brim option before using the glue stick on the printer. When the print is finished, clean off the printer bed.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Support fails:''' If the support gets really stringy as the print continues and in turn fails the print, see if you can have a supervisor help you change the density of the support. Double check that the printer is not shaking too much as you print your model. If you still don't know what to do after your print fails, ask a supervisor.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''First layer of print warps:''' If the first layer of your print warps and affects the rest of your print, lower the bed temperature, and start the print again. If it continues to warp, try adding some adhesive on the printer bed. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''Thermal Runaway:''' Thermal Runaway is a safety feature designed to prevent the printer from accidentally catching fire. If your printer's thermistor would somehow dislodge itself, electronic parts would get a lower (incorrect) temperature reading. In an attempt to compensate for the lower temperature, the heater would reach dangerously high temperatures, with the printer potentially becoming a fire hazard. Thermal Runaway prevents that from happening. Thermal Runaway is configured to shut down the printer when the temperature drops by more than 15°C for more than 45 seconds. If the temperature reading doesn't recover in the set time period, the printer will shut down and display the Thermal Runaway error. All hotend heaters are thoroughly tested, so they can run at 200°C with the print cooling fan at a 100% speed. To print materials that require higher temperatures (like PLA at 215°C), the speed of the fan must be decreased in the Prusa Slicer software or manually during the print. Incorrect fan speeds are sometimes the result of using gcode from a different type of printer. Pay attention to your prints as they start the second layer, as this is usually when the print cooling fan kicks in. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your issue or error is not found here, ask the supervisor for help, or you can research on this website: https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#section-fdm-3d-printing-problems-my-print-failed&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Failed Calibration:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the printer fails while calibrating, there will be an error message that suggests you clean the nozzle off and retry the print. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Crash Detected:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the nozzle hits something it's not used to, such as an obstruction in the print, the print bed, or something else that stops the extruder from moving, the printer will error and say it crashed. It will ask you to clean off any excess filament and stuff that gets in the way of the extruder. If it continues to fail because of a crash, ask a supervisor for help.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Maintenance ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Specific Maintenance Tasks ====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1&lt;br /&gt;
|Wiping Down Buildplate&lt;br /&gt;
|Before every new print&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2&lt;br /&gt;
|Cleaning of Nozzle&lt;br /&gt;
|When needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean and lubricate travel rods&lt;br /&gt;
|When needed &lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
# Grab a paper towel from the sink and the isopropyl alcohol from next to the Formlabs printer. Use these to wipe down the build plate and make sure you do not touch the plate after doing this because that will get oils on it. &lt;br /&gt;
# Raise the print head in the z axis until the nozzle is easily accessible. Use tweezers, paper towels, isopropyl alcohol, or any other substances to remove filament from the nozzle. If the nozzle is clogged, use a wrench to remove it and clean out any filament inside. A heat gun may be helpful for this. &lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe down the smooth travel rods with a paper towel and then re-lubricate them. Clean the threaded rods with a brush and then re-lubricate them.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Markforged_3D_Printer&amp;diff=9017</id>
		<title>Markforged 3D Printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Markforged_3D_Printer&amp;diff=9017"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T16:37:36Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
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[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
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Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
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Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}} &lt;br /&gt;
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__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Mark Two is a desktop professional 3D printer capable of reinforcing parts with composite fiber, affording them durability and strength. It can print in a range of materials, including Nylon, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, and Kevlar.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2o02D94B4y8&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&amp;amp;t=26}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
Inlay - embedding pieces of a different material into another, in this case embedding carbon fiber or another&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fiber - A non-plastic material which in this case comes in a strand/spool and is inlayed into the base plastic&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Composite Materials - material made from two or more constituent materials with significantly different physical or chemical properties that, when combined, produce a material with characteristics different from the individual&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dry Box - dry box is a storage container in which the interior is kept at a low level of humidity, in this case in order to prevent the material from being damaged&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Eiger - Software used to set up prints on the Mark Two, accessible from most browsers (i.e. Chrome). Account-based, requires an account to use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Purge - Rapid printing of excess material which has been sitting in the machine lines for a long period of time. This helps ensure a print will be of acceptable quality by removing any potentially humidity compromised material from the lines&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Onyx - Markforged prefered primary printing material. It is a vinyl base with chopped carbon fiber in the filament.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/mark-two Product Information from 3D Hubs]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/categories/115000131204-Mark-Two User Guide]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.rdmag.com/article/2018/10/understanding-role-carbon-fiber-3d-printing Brief on Carbon Fiber Printing]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Mark II is a [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing|FDM Printer.]] See the main page for more background on the Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) process. What sets the Mark II apart is its ability to inlay various materials in the print using a second nozzle. These materials include carbon fiber, fiberglass, and kevlar. These smaller materials are located on the second, smaller spool in the rear of the build space. The inlaying of these materials can be customized in Eiger (the printing software for the Markforged). The main materials for the printer are nylon and onyx, this material is contained in the dry box (black box behind the printer) in order to limit moisture contamination. Don't open this unless you need to change the material. Nylon is a typical plastic filament, which provides a clean finish and some flexibility. Onyx is nylon with chopped carbon fiber. This provides more strength and a little less flexibility.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Prints on the Markforged must be started by a manager, as the software is account based.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To show a complete understanding of the Mark II, student will perform the setup and shut down procedures for printing a Coiler Winder.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
# Software&lt;br /&gt;
## The Mark II utilizes cloud-based print software Eiger. This means that the software can be accessed from any browser, but an account is required to do so. As such, prints will need to be started by management.&lt;br /&gt;
## After login, the main screen returns to library. From this page, you can view and modify previous prints for reprinting or import a new STL for printing.&lt;br /&gt;
## Once imported or selected, print material may be selected (Onyx in this case) reinforcement type may be selected and orientation may be edited in the pane on the right. Clicking a part face will orient that face to the build plate. Reinforcement and material settings may be edited with drop-down menus (these are generally best done in the internal view). Brims and support may be toggled on or off from the Part Settings drop-down menu. All these options are available from part view.&lt;br /&gt;
## From internal view, density (number of layers of carbon fiber) may be viewed and edited using the slider at the bottom of the page (Blue is carbon fiber, White is main material).&lt;br /&gt;
## Material costs and totals may be viewed in the upper left of the part screen. It's worth noting the dramatic change in cost with addition of Carbon Fiber inlay.&lt;br /&gt;
## All Mark II prints should be okay-ed with Justin Johnson (the shop supervisor) before being started. Once setup is completed and the printer is on, prints are sent to the printer via the &amp;quot;Print&amp;quot; option. Generally, select the option to start the print from the machine, rather than automatically.&lt;br /&gt;
# Printer Setup&lt;br /&gt;
## The printer may be turned on with a switch on the rear of the machine. The machine will boot up and may need to update, let it complete this process. &lt;br /&gt;
## Before starting the print, glue needs to be applied to the build plate. Simply lift the build plate off the mount and apply the glue stick (found in the Markforged drawer/box) to the area where the print is located in the software (be sure to account for extra width due to the brim), the back of the plate where the machine will purge a line of material (print excess material which has been sitting in the lines and exposed to air), and the corner where the purge tower is located in the image below. [[File:Mark II Build Plate.jpg|thumb|A Mark II build plate with purge tower and purge line.|none]]&lt;br /&gt;
## Place the plate back on the mount. The Mark II is ready to print! &lt;br /&gt;
# Printer Shutdown&lt;br /&gt;
## Upon completion of the part, select clear bed on the touchscreen and remove the build plate from the mount. The purge line and tower should be easily removable by hand. &lt;br /&gt;
## For the part itself, take the putty knife found in the Markforged drawer/box and carefully remove the part. This may take quite a bit of force to accomplish. Make sure the blade of the putty knife and your hand will never come into contact if you slip (i.e.: brace the plate on the table and push the knife away from you along the plate). Work the knife along the perimeter of the part's attachment to the build plate and avoid prying with the knife when possible. [[File:Removing Parts from Mark II Build Plate.jpg|thumb|Removing parts from the Mark II build plate.|none]]&lt;br /&gt;
## After the part is removed, wash the plate with warm water only. When the plate is clean, dry it with a paper towel and place it back on the mounts.&lt;br /&gt;
## The plate is ceramic, avoid dropping it. The plate will absorb oil, it is normal to see fingerprints, etc. on the plate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
# Please take care when removing parts from the plate so as to NOT CUT YOURSELF with the putty knife. FDM printers use heating of material to form a 3D model, like a hot glue gun. As such, the extruder head of the printer will be warm. DO NOT TOUCH THE EXTRUDER when it is hot. Doing so will result in burns. &lt;br /&gt;
# Although this should be a non-issue, fiber strands are fairly thin and sharp. DON’T IMPALE YOURSELF. &lt;br /&gt;
# The top of the printer may be opened for maintenance and inspection. This leaves the gantry with the print head on it exposed. DO NOT PUT YOUR HAND IN THE MOVING MACHINERY. Doing so may result in pinching, crushing, cutting, “ouch”-ing, crying, and other unpleasant “-ings”.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1241 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
See the  the [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/categories/115000131204-Mark-Two Support Page] for troubleshooting guides.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All maintenance will be performed by the Ace of the Mark II or managers. Specific maintenance tasks are listed below.&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Changing Materials&lt;br /&gt;
|When needed, Use the key located in ask managers or Justin to unlock the dry box&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Follow [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/articles/208342553-Unload-Plastic Unload Plastic] instructions to remove what is left of current primary material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Follow [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/articles/115000403824-Set-Up-and-Load-Plastic Set Up and Load Plastic] instructions to insert new primary material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Follow [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/articles/115000543824-Unload-Fiber Unload Fiber] instructions to remove what is left of current inlay material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Follow [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/articles/208198473-Set-Up-and-Load-Fiber Set Up and Load Fiber] instructions to insert new primary material.&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace or Managers&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Calibration and Setup&lt;br /&gt;
|Follow [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/articles/207896386-Level-the-Print-Bed Level the Print Bed] instructions to level the print bed and set the correct nozzle heights.&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace or managers&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Additional Calibration and Maintenance&lt;br /&gt;
|See the [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/categories/115000131204-Mark-Two Support Page] for additional maintenance and operation guides.&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace or managers&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;references /&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Formlabs_3D_Printer&amp;diff=9016</id>
		<title>Formlabs 3D Printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Formlabs_3D_Printer&amp;diff=9016"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T16:36:50Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=DelicateOyster / KeenFly&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:formlabs_printer_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Formlabs 3D Printer Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:formlabs_printer_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:form-2.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Formlabs Form 2 3D Printer&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=(???)&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1237&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has group=3D Printers&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Formlabs&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Form 2&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Josh Lee;jlee17@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|300px|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 is Formlab's 3rd generation printer boasting a whole range of new features including a new peeling mechanism, heated tank, touchscreen display, wireless controls and an automated resin system. The resulting prints that come off of the Form 2 have consistently been among the highest quality objects to come off of any desktop 3D printer. This machine is best used with the [[Form Wash and Cure]] &amp;lt;ref name=&amp;quot;:0&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Description adapted from [https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/form-2 3dhubs].&amp;lt;/ref&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 employs [[Prototype Lab#SLA Printing Anchor|SLA Printing]] (Stereolithography Apparatus). Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled in the PreForm software to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This ensures the wiper blade in the resin tank doesn't remove the print from the build plate. When reviewing the supports in PreForm, check to make sure all supports are created in areas from which they can be easily removed, or that supports created in inaccessible areas won't interfere with the print's intended function. Also check to make sure no supports are created on hard edges, as any placed supports will break up the edge, and removing them properly takes longer than necessary and can potentially damage the print.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tn5zA5bNSE}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert terminology here&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:TouchScreen.jpg|Touchscreen&lt;br /&gt;
File:...resinCartridge.jpg|Resin Cartridge&lt;br /&gt;
File:...form2BuildPlate.jpg|Build Platform&lt;br /&gt;
File:...ResinTray.png|Resin Tank&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Quick-Start-Guide?language=en_US Quick Start Guide]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/ Product Home Page]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/tech-specs/ Tech Specs]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/design-specs/ Design Specs]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 is most useful for its ability to print incredibly accurate parts, with layers as thin as .025mm thick, depending on the resin selected. Due to the size of the Form 2, it can only be used to print smaller pieces, and the extra layering for detail combined with the de-lamination process also causes the Form 2 to generally be the slowest printer in the lab. Unless an exception is made, a model with supports included should be no larger than 30mL worth of resin. If specific material properties are needed for a print, the Form 2 is a good option to look into thanks to the many differing resins available for use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To show a complete understanding of the Form 2, students will prepare a part, upload it to the Form 2, and print it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Setting up PreForm&lt;br /&gt;
##PreForm is the software we will use to import or model to the printer.  When connecting to PreForm you need to make sure the wifi is enabled and connected to bruin Secure. Make sure the correct printer is selected as well.&lt;br /&gt;
##To begin with, make sure the print is under the approved cost/size cutoff ($7), or the person printing has special approval to exceed this limit.&lt;br /&gt;
##If a window pops up saying the print is broken, hit the repair button then proceed as normal.&lt;br /&gt;
##Parts must be shrunk to fit within the build area, further size edits can be made in the Size tab.&lt;br /&gt;
###The goal is to reduce the horizontal area covered with each pass of the wiper. Start with auto-orienting the part using the 'Orient Selected' button in the Orientation tab, this is a good place to start and will make it easier to see if the part needs further orientation.[[File:Size set.jpg|none|thumb| Image 1-Model too big for build plate--Image 2-Model shrunk to fit build plate]]&lt;br /&gt;
##Don't place supports on hard edges (right angles) or in inaccessible places. This will cause the print to be unprintable.&lt;br /&gt;
##Every part that needs support should have support - PreForm will highlight unsupported areas in red, place supports until the red areas go away. '''Check the part thoroughly because PreForm will not let you print with unsupported areas.'''&lt;br /&gt;
##Supports can be added, edited, and removed in the PreForm Supports tab.&lt;br /&gt;
###Support density should be between .5 and .7.   '''''[Note - Is this a setting or a dimension?]'''''&lt;br /&gt;
###Support point size should be between .6mm and .8mm.&lt;br /&gt;
###These values can be edited if necessary to ensure printability, just use common sense when adjusting values.&lt;br /&gt;
##The Layout tab can be used to add additional copies of a part.&lt;br /&gt;
##Ensure you are connected to Bruin Secure wifi with the proper printer and resin type selected in Preform prior to printing. Additionally, make sure that the resin you want is already installed in the printers. If the resin needs to be changed to the one that you want, ask a Lab Volunteer to help you.&lt;br /&gt;
#Choosing a Resin Type&lt;br /&gt;
##Go through each of these resin types to evaluate which material you will make your part out of. Once you have finished, you can send the file from the computer to the Formlabs printer&lt;br /&gt;
##Black/grey standard: the Standard Resins section of [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Choosing-the-Right-Material?language=en_US Choosing the Right Material].&lt;br /&gt;
###Pros: high detail, matte surfaces, good for small, intricate features.&lt;br /&gt;
###Cons: not particularly strong, stretchy, or flexible.&lt;br /&gt;
##Tough: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Tough-Resin?language=en_US Tough]&lt;br /&gt;
###Pros: good for hard edges, snap fits, and high-stresses.&lt;br /&gt;
###Cons: bad for fine details and rigid prints, will not stretch as much as Durable.&lt;br /&gt;
##Durable: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Durable-Resin?language=en_US Durable]&lt;br /&gt;
###Pros: low-friction, high impact strength, good for parts that are both rigid and flexible.&lt;br /&gt;
###Cons: bad for fine detail parts.&lt;br /&gt;
##Flexible: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Flexible-Resin?language=en_US Flexible]&lt;br /&gt;
###Pros: can simulate rubber when uncured, good for functional prototyping.&lt;br /&gt;
###Cons: bad for fine detail or applications when rigidity or hardness are required.&lt;br /&gt;
##See the respective links for each resin for in-depth descriptions of each resin's properties and suggested applications, or look at [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Choosing-the-Right-Material?language=en_US Choosing the Right Material] for a shorter overview. Most resins do not handle high temperatures or constant loading well.&lt;br /&gt;
#Operating the Touchscreen&lt;br /&gt;
##You will be able to start your print using the touchscreen on the Form 2. If it is sleeping, just press the button and it should wake up.&lt;br /&gt;
##When it wakes up, you will likely see this screen. It displays the most recently prepared job and gives you the option to print now by pressing the blue button on the bottom right of the screen.[[File:TouchScreen.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
##There are two other buttons you can press on the left screen. The USB button will take you to the settings of the printer, so you will not need to go here. The checklist button brings a list of every job that has been uploaded to the printer, so you will want to be selecting this one to find your print. When you find your print, select &amp;quot;print now&amp;quot;. The printer will make sure that you perform the appropriate setup before it starts printing, such as inserting the tank in the back of the printer and assuring that the build plate is cleared of other printed parts.&lt;br /&gt;
##The print will begin its process once you hit Print Now! A time estimate will be provided.&lt;br /&gt;
#Removing Prints&lt;br /&gt;
##Your part should now be finished! Follow these steps to clean it up.&lt;br /&gt;
##Finished prints&lt;br /&gt;
###Use a scraping tool to remove the print and any extra material from the build plate, taking care to not scratch the build plate. Go as carefully and as slowly as needed to prevent damaging the print.&lt;br /&gt;
####The build plate stand can be used for easier removal.&lt;br /&gt;
###Wash the print in the Form Wash.&lt;br /&gt;
###If the print is being cured, only remove support material after it has been run through the Form Cure.&lt;br /&gt;
###Supports should be clipped off, and any leftover support material can be sanded down if desired.&lt;br /&gt;
##Failed prints&lt;br /&gt;
###Follow the same process for finished prints for removing.&lt;br /&gt;
###'''When a print fails, the build plate must be cleaned and run through the Wash''' before a new print can be started, as leftover residue from the failed print can cause subsequent prints to also fail. You will also need to check the resin tank for clumps as well as double check the model orientation.  Don't forget to update the job log as well.&lt;br /&gt;
#Washing and Curing Prints&lt;br /&gt;
##See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page.&lt;br /&gt;
#Changing Resin&lt;br /&gt;
##If the Formlabs Printer resin tray does not contain the resin you want, allow Lab volunteers to provide the desired resin.&lt;br /&gt;
##Remove, clean, and replace the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
###Pull lever holding build plate in place up, allowing the build plate to be removed.&lt;br /&gt;
###Place the build plate on the holding rack in the Form Wash. Run the build plate through the Wash to remove resin. For the build plate, the Wash should be set to 10 minutes.&lt;br /&gt;
###Let the build plate air dry before replacing, secure by flipping lever down.&lt;br /&gt;
##Remove and replace resin tank and wiper.&lt;br /&gt;
###Firmly pull wiper back until it's out of its slot and loose in the resin tank. Leave the wiper in the resin tank, each tank has its own wiper.&lt;br /&gt;
###Firmly pull tank back until it pops loose of the printer, put the appropriate lid on the resin tank, and store with wiper in tank.&lt;br /&gt;
###Before inserting the new resin tank, remove its lid and store.&lt;br /&gt;
###Slot the new resin tank into place in the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
###Use a scraping tool to dredge bottom of new resin tank for any hardened resin or loose bits of material, remove any found bits.&lt;br /&gt;
###Slot the new tank's wiper into place.&lt;br /&gt;
###Be sure to clean up any resin that spills during this process.&lt;br /&gt;
##Remove and replace the resin cartridge in the back of the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
###Close the lid of the cartridge if it's open.&lt;br /&gt;
###Pull cartridge out of the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
###Wipe dry the resin drip on the bottom of the cartridge, then store.&lt;br /&gt;
###Insert new resin cartridge, '''of the same resin as the tank'''.&lt;br /&gt;
###Open lid on resin cartridge before starting a print, and close after.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
The most dangerous part of using the Form 2 is taking the part off of the build plate. The scraping tool could hurt your little fingers, so make sure you do not hit them. Also, the alcohol used to clean the print is not for drinking purposes. It is both against the lifestyle contract and very harmful to you if you drink it, so do not do it.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1237 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
If a print fails, the most likely cause is contamination of the resin. Before proceeding, see the procedure for Failed Prints. Contamination of the resin involves leftover material on the build plate, or particulates in the resin tank. Before attempting a new print, thoroughly clean the build plate, and dredge the resin tank for any loose particles. Another cause is incorrect orientation of the print. Check the print file in question, and ensure it has been canted accordingly to prevent the de-laminating process from removing the print from the build plate. Make sure to also update the job log.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Old resin and resin tanks can also present issues.  '''Don't ever mix resin types.''' If a resin tanks is particularly cloudy on the bottom, the laser will be prevented from being able to penetrate the tank, and cause adhesion issues for the print. Resin can also go bad after sitting for long periods of time or being used heavily. This can be evidenced by discoloration of the resin or separation of the resin into unmixed layers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Dredging: Every few prints the resin tank should be checked and dredged with a scraping tool to search for any hardened resin or loose bits of material, as well as when resin tanks are switched out, and when a print fails. Remove any found bits. Dredging is done by sweeping a scraping tool back and forth across the bottom of the resin tank, essentially mixing up the resin to stir up any loose bits. Take care while dredging to not scrape the tank. See a resin's particular page on the Formlabs website for additional cleaning instruction. If the tank is not cleanable, switch out the resin tank. If the problem persists, it's possible the resin cartridge needs to be switched out as well.&lt;br /&gt;
#Alcohol in the Form Wash must be changed once a certain threshold of washed-off resin enters the tank. See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page for details.&lt;br /&gt;
#Old resin and resin tanks will occasionally need to be changed out&lt;br /&gt;
#[https://support.formlabs.com/hc/en-us/categories/115000003904-Form-2 Form 2 Sources and Help]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Dredging&lt;br /&gt;
|Every few prints&lt;br /&gt;
|Lab Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Changing Alcohol&lt;br /&gt;
|Once a certain threshold of washed-off resin enters the tank. See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page for details.&lt;br /&gt;
|Lab Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|General Cleaning&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use. Reset The Space!&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Resources==&lt;br /&gt;
[[Form Wash and Cure]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Prototype Lab#SLA Printing Anchor|SLA Printing]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Link to shop [[Equipment]] page&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;references /&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=F370_3D_Printer&amp;diff=9015</id>
		<title>F370 3D Printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=F370_3D_Printer&amp;diff=9015"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T16:36:20Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;[[File:..f370.jpg|thumb|412x412px]]&lt;br /&gt;
{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1229&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Stratasys&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=F370&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=D-30365 (Alpha) / D-30809 (Omega)&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has group=Prototype Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Kyler Howard;khoward19@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:F370 3D printer.png|left|140x140px|frameless]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The F370 is an [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing Anchor|FDM]] (fused deposit modeling) printer made by Stratasys. It is capable of producing highly accurate parts, whether for prototyping or functional use. The F370 shares the same brand and concept as the [[Dimension 3D Printer|Dimension]] printer, but with subtle differences in operation and maintenance. The F370 boasts the largest build plate in the Prototype lab. Combined with its high accuracy and consistency, the F370 can be left overnight to print multiple parts prepared throughout the day with little worry about print failures.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Stratasys printers utilize dissolving support material that leaves no surface damage from breaking off supports and allows for creative parts that are impossible on other printers. This printer is a great option for highly detailed or complex parts, parts containing holes that require high tolerances, parts that take advantage of the dissolving support material, bulk prints, or overflow from the Prusa printers when they are full. Currently, the Prototype Lab has two F370 printers available for use. Printing parts on the F370 costs more than printing on the Prusa printers.  If your part will cost more than $12 to print you will need to get approval from the supervisor on shift.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8K4YTekXRw}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:F370 Touchscreen.jpg|Touchscreen&lt;br /&gt;
File:...storageDrawer.png|Storage Drawer&lt;br /&gt;
File:...materialBayDrawer.png|Material Bay Drawer&lt;br /&gt;
File:...buildPlate.jpg|Build Plate&lt;br /&gt;
File:...materialSpool.jpg|Material Spool&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.stratasys.com/3d-printers/f123 Product Home Page]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.stratasys.com/-/media/files/documentation/fdm/F123-Series/User-Guide/F123%20Series%20User%20Guide_d/ User Guide]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.stratasys.com/-/media/files/documentation/fdm/F123-Series/Operation-Guide/F123_Series_Operation%20and%20Maintenance_REV_A.pdf/ Operation and Maintenance Manual]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://help.grabcad.com/ GrabCAD Help Page]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The basic workflow for using the F370 will be as follows: Preparing the Printer, Preparing Your File for Print, Printing Your Part, Soaking Your Part. First, you prepare the printer so that it is physically ready to print any design you give it. Second, you prepare the part on the software used by the F370. This generates a file that tells the machine how to produce your part. Third, the machine prints your part. Fourth, you soak the part in the bath so that it dissolves all the support material. Then you have a finished part! Each section below will have specific information relevant to each step. You are encouraged to speak with a lab volunteer for advice and guidance for any step of the process. If you need to print a part for a class project make sure you get it added to the pack at least 3 days before it will be needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To show a complete knowledge of the F370, students will bring in a part, prepare it on the machine, print it, and soak it in the support bath.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Preparing the F370&lt;br /&gt;
##Powering on the Printer&lt;br /&gt;
###The F370 can be powered on by pressing the large power button next to the touch screen console on the front of the printer. The printer may take up to 15 minutes to boot up, so do this step first if you plan to print soon.&lt;br /&gt;
##Before you can open your part in GrabCAD, make sure your part is in the '''.'''STL format.&lt;br /&gt;
##Acceptable Prints&lt;br /&gt;
###The maximum part size is 14 x 10 x 14 inches, or 35.56 x 25.4 x 35.56 centimeters, because that is how large the build plate is. Any part that is larger should be shown to a lab volunteer to discuss options.&lt;br /&gt;
###Generally, a part will be fit for the F370 if it is highly detailed and/or has holes that require fairly high tolerances. If it is a small, detailed part, a Form 2 printer should suffice. If the part is quick and simple, a Prusa will likely suffice.&lt;br /&gt;
###If your part is designed to take advantage of the dissolving support material the Stratasys machines use, then verify with a lab volunteer that it will be okay to print.&lt;br /&gt;
###Even if you are certain your part belongs on the F370, double check with a lab volunteer before you add it to the pack. Their goal is to help you, but the Prototype Lab would like to avoid excessively expensive and/or unnecessary prints.&lt;br /&gt;
#Preparing the file: GrabCAD&lt;br /&gt;
##GrabCAD Print is the software shared by both F370s. It allows one to easily orient and view the part that needs to be printed. Both printers are web based, which allows one to start the print from the one of the lab's computers. '''Give yourself a few days before your project is due to print on either F370.''' Prints will generally be started when a tray is full or by a lab volunteer at the end of a day. It is unlikely your print will be started just because you waited until the last minute. Be proactive.&lt;br /&gt;
##On Opening GrabCAD, make sure that you navigate to the bottom right of the screen and select the menu next to &amp;quot;Print.&amp;quot; Select the printer you want to use; in this case, the F370, which will appear as &amp;quot;f370D30365&amp;quot;. The volunteers in the lab can help you determine which printer would work best.&lt;br /&gt;
##To begin preparing your part, click on &amp;quot;Add Models&amp;quot;. This is how you import your file into GrabCAD.  '''Your file must be in .stl format.''' After you have added your part, you can begin preparing it to be printed. Multiple models can be added to the project. Additionally, models can be placed on new trays if the current one runs out of space.[[File:Icons.png|300x300px|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
##Notice that once a part has been added, an hourglass shaped tower will appear next to your part and scale with the size of your part. This is called a &amp;quot;purge tower&amp;quot; and is where a printer expels excess material upon switching filaments. The purge tower can be moved around on the plate as needed, but cannot be rotated. To move your part on the plate, one can simply click and drag to place it where they want to be printed. Keep in mind that the build plate is to scale, where you place it in the software will be where it prints in reality.&lt;br /&gt;
##To change how one is viewing the plate, hold on the middle mouse button and drag to move the plate, or click and hold the right mouse button to orient the angle the plate is viewed from. There are also icons on top to choose various viewpoints, such as an isometric view, top, left, etc. The icons on the right side of the screen are your print options. All of the options are intuitive, but you are still encouraged to practice manipulating your part so you understand how to use each function. The top three 'icons are different views, starting from a normal Model View, which is roughly how your part will appear when done.&lt;br /&gt;
##Analysis Mode shows faulty areas of a part, and Slice Preview shows model material and support material in the part. Below the Slice Preview Icon is the Model Info, where you can change the units of a selected part if needed.&lt;br /&gt;
##Next is Print Settings, which will be addressed below. The Arrange icon automatically arranges parts to optimize print time. Orient allows one to either let the software orient the part, orient a particular face to a plane, or rotate the model on the XYZ axis. Lastly, the Scale icon gives the option to change the size of the model, either with uniform scaling or on a particular axis. It also gives you the part dimension for each axis.&lt;br /&gt;
##'''You MUST print your part with &amp;quot;Sparse - low density&amp;quot; fill.''' It is expensive to print with Stratasys materials, thus you must consult a lab volunteer if you have a part you feel needs a denser fill. All of standard settings generally do not need to be changed.[[File:Density.png|thumb|none|300x300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
##If you would like more information on specifics, head to the GrabCAD website's [https://help.grabcad.com/article/199-take-a-quick-tour Help Center] for further details and tips, guides, or answers to FAQs. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8K4YTekXRw This] video contains a basic rundown of GrabCAD. Remember that the lab volunteers are available to answer your questions or provide assistance.&lt;br /&gt;
##??&lt;br /&gt;
#Printing the part: F370 Touchscreen Operation&lt;br /&gt;
##After your part has been prepared, save the project before continuing. Generally, you will not start the print in the lab itself, since a volunteer will start it when a tray is full or when the day ends, but the workflow is as follows.&lt;br /&gt;
##Select &amp;quot;Print.&amp;quot; The software will prepare the print. For larger packs, this may take several minutes, but usually takes around 30 seconds. If a print is currently ongoing, a bar across the top will read, &amp;quot;Print job queued successfully.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
##Once your part has been prepared, you can click on on &amp;quot;View Estimates&amp;quot; in the bottom right-hand corner. You will see print time and the amount of model and support material that will be used, in cubic inches (in^3). This is an example of what the tray estimation page looks like. The model and support material used can be input into the Job Log in the lab.[[File:Estimate.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
##Touchscreen operation on the F370 is highly intuitive. In the image below, the four icons on the left are as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
###Home - Displays the current tray to be printed. If a print is in progress, it will display how much time is left in the print and what is being printed. After a few minutes, a screen saver will switch between displaying which layer is being printed and how much time is left on the current print.&lt;br /&gt;
###Queue - Shows which trays are queued. This can also be viewed in GrabCAD.&lt;br /&gt;
###Materials - Display which material trays contain material, what kind of material is in the F370, and how much material is left. It also displays tip temperature for each respective material.&lt;br /&gt;
###Tools - The last menu has various settings and functions for the printer. One of the icons in this menu will be a sun, which turns the light inside the printer on and off so a print can be viewed. Otherwise, do not mess with or change settings without speaking to a volunteer first.  [[File:F370_Touchscreen.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
###To start your print, the image above shows the home screen for the console. If a build plate is in place, the F370 has sufficient materials, and the correct tray is displayed, simply select &amp;quot;Print&amp;quot; and the print will begin.&lt;br /&gt;
#Soaking the part: Dissolvable Support Bath&lt;br /&gt;
##You will need to soak your finished part in the Dissolvable Support Bath in order to remove the support material. Much of it can be removed with pliers, but the remainder needs to be taken care of with the bath.&lt;br /&gt;
##For more information, see the [[Dissolvable Support Bath]] page. This section will contain basic information on what to do with the parts and bath, with basic safety info (gloves, goggles, washing yourself, spill, etc) and &amp;quot;see bath page for more detailed information&amp;quot; on particular topics.&lt;br /&gt;
#Build Plates&lt;br /&gt;
##F370 build plates are reusable, but when parts are removed from the plate, they often leave layers of support material that are extremely difficult to remove, rendering that part of the plate unusable. If a large pack or part is queued and a new plate is required for a print, go ahead and use a new plate. If a print or pack is smaller and can be printed without interference from unusable parts of a plate, try your best to reuse plates.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#When you are removing the support material by hand, it can be a little hot and sharp to begin with. Using a tool of some sort to chip it off is a good way to go, because hands bleed and tools don't :)&lt;br /&gt;
#When using the dissolvable support bath, do not use your bare hands to put your parts in! The liquid consists of water and Sodium Hydroxide which is a strong base! Use goggles, a lab coat, and the huge thick rubber gloves so that you don't get any on you.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1229 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#If GrabCAD says printer isn't available, then it is not started up. Make sure the printer has been on for a while so it can connect to the network appropriately.&lt;br /&gt;
#It may take a while to start the print if your printer was just recently used. It can take 2 hours to heat up before the printing the job begins.&lt;br /&gt;
#Make sure you have enough material in the material bay to complete the print before you begin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are a few things students and the ace will need to do while performing maintenance tasks or the F370.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Changing Materials&lt;br /&gt;
|When the amount of material gets low&lt;br /&gt;
|Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Removing Material from Build Plate&lt;br /&gt;
|After every print&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Changing Materials (Loading Filament Spools)&lt;br /&gt;
##Only volunteers will change out materials. If the F370 runs out of filament or you would like to use a different color, please speak to a lab volunteer.&lt;br /&gt;
##There are four material bays within the F370. The top drawer houses the material bays and their material drive controller, which feeds the filament from the bay to the head. '''The material drive controller detects whether material is in the material drive  during the load and unload process and it can also detect errors, when filament is broken, or when the end of the spool is reached via a filament present switch.  [''This sentence needs to be revised by someone that understands the details of the &amp;quot;material drive] [I gave it a try, probably needs an expert to review - CZ]''''' The print will be paused if any of these things occur so the print can be recovered and filament reloaded.&lt;br /&gt;
##Select the '''Materials''' button from the touchscreen.&lt;br /&gt;
##Open the material bay drawer. That is the biggest drawer on the bottom half of the F370.&lt;br /&gt;
##Insert the material spool into its appropriate slot. In the Prototype Lab, the two bays on the left will contain model material, while the bays on the right will contain support material.&lt;br /&gt;
###Pull up on the latch securing the lid and open the lid.&lt;br /&gt;
###Place the material spool into the slot. Make sure the filament tail is facing the back wall of the material bay (printer side).&lt;br /&gt;
###Once the spool is inserted, the Material Status icon will display a solid yellow border with a notification badge above the icon.&lt;br /&gt;
##Open the Materials Details page by tapping on the status icon for the bay you are loading material into.&lt;br /&gt;
##Slowly turn the spool and feed filament through the filament hole.&lt;br /&gt;
###The filament needs to be advanced approximately 2 inches to reach the filament present switch. When the switch is reached, the Load button will refresh into a selectable state.&lt;br /&gt;
###When feeding filament, be careful to ensure that filament does not fall over the edge of the spool to avoid cross-winding and/or load errors.&lt;br /&gt;
##Once the filament present switch detects filament, select the Load icon.&lt;br /&gt;
##Press the Back button within the Material Details page to exit and return to the Materials page.&lt;br /&gt;
##Material will begin to load and the F370 will take care of the rest, automatically heating both the oven and liquefier  tip to the correct temperatures for the material being used.&lt;br /&gt;
##Once the tip is within three degrees of the set point temperature the head moves to the purge area and the tip purges a small amount of material.&lt;br /&gt;
##Once material is loaded, the filament pathway between the Material Status Icon and the corresponding Head Status Icon will be solid blue, the Head Status Icon will turn from gray to blue, and the Material Status Icon will display a solid blue border.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=9014</id>
		<title>Prototype Lab</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=9014"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T16:35:54Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
  |Has ace=Kyler Howard;khoward19@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
  |Is facility = True&lt;br /&gt;
  |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1250&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab contains a group of 3D printers and 2 laser cutters! [[File:prototype_lab.jpeg|300px|thumb|The Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current Maker Hub Student Staff in the {{PAGENAME}} are '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}) and Emily Erickson (eerickson18@georgefox.edu). &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Schedule=&lt;br /&gt;
View the most up-to-date {{PAGENAME}} schedule [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/18hIb8klZ1hCLjVHk0eRi-_QaOWjuZ9XF1I1HIUDEL_I/edit?usp=sharing on this Google Sheet.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Equipment Overview=&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::true]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has make=Company&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has model=Model |+width=10em&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has ace.Has name=Current Ace&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=broadtable&lt;br /&gt;
 |mainlabel=Name&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Equipment by Icon==&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::True]][[Has icon::+]] [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has icon=Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Is located in facility&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=plainlist&lt;br /&gt;
 |template=EquipmentIconGallery&lt;br /&gt;
 |outrotemplate=EquipmentIconGalleryOutro&lt;br /&gt;
 |limit=100&lt;br /&gt;
 |link=none&lt;br /&gt;
 |sort=Is located in facility&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==[[3 commandments]]==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===1. Safety First===&lt;br /&gt;
Safety First is the rule we hold highest of the three. Given the delicate nature of our machines, and the different chemicals and materials we use in the Prototype lab, this rule applies to both the safety of you, and the machines.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keeping yourself safe in the Prototype Lab is very easy, as there are very few ways to hurt yourself or the machines. However, proper procedure must be followed at all times.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Basic principles of how to implement Safety First in the Prototype Lab:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Do not touch the extruder heads of the 3D printers when they are running. They will be very hot and will burn you. Wait for the machine to cool off.&lt;br /&gt;
*Use gloves when handling chemicals such as Sodium Hydroxide (use the heat protecting gloves when retrieving items from the Sodium Hydroxide bath), Isopropyl or Denatured Alcohol (use Nitrile gloves if handling extensively after removing from the Form Wash), and Lacquer Thinner (use Nitrile gloves when using lacquer thinner to clean residue off of engraved Hydroflasks). You may use gloves whenever you feel necessary, but these are circumstances where gloves are absolutely required.&lt;br /&gt;
*In addition to wearing gloves when around the Sodium Hydroxide, you must also wear safety goggles (preferably the goggles, but if those are unavailable then use safety glasses). A lab coat needs to be worn to protect from splashes. All of these items can be found within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
*Make sure you read through the SDS (Safety Data Sheets) binder mounted by the sink so that you are up-to-date on safety procedures regarding the chemicals within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
*If chemicals ever get on your skin or in your eyes, follow the SDS. Wash it off or out (there is an eye washing station in front of the Machine Shop about 30 feet feet away). If it is an emergency, do what you need to do to make sure you and those around you are safe.&lt;br /&gt;
*Make sure you know how to use the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
*If there is a chemical spill, we do have a spill kit. First, evacuate the lab and get everyone out. This means the lab should be shut down until the spill has been properly dealt with. Second, call Justin Johnson whose information should be posted next to the Emergency Response Guide (bright yellow and by the door leading to the main space). If Justin does not answer, call the Campus Public Safety office (formerly Security Services) whose information will be in the Emergency Response Guide or can be found online. Third, if you feel it is safe to do so, deploy the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
*Be aware that laser cut items can have sharp edges that could cut you.&lt;br /&gt;
*Be careful when trying to remove support material by hand from a print off of the Dimension. When the support material breaks, it leaves sharp edges and shatters extremely sharp shards that will cut you if you are not careful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===2. Reset the Space===&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab has a specific organization to it, even though sometimes it looks like chaos. Put whatever you use back where it belongs. There is a place for everything and everything has a place. This rule applies to everything in the space. If you move a chair, put it back. If you use a tool, put it back. If you use a pen, put it back. Do not leave your projects in the Prototype Lab, take them with you. Do not leave random note sheets that pertain to nothing out. Throw away your trash and recycling. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We have allowed food and drink in the space. Resetting the Space means that you don’t leave wrappers, or trays, or anything that wasn’t there when you came in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are employed in the space, this still applies to you. Do not take tools from the Hub and then store them in the Lab. If we need more tools, speak with Ben and Gabi and they can evaluate the situation and, if necessary, they will get more tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After you have started your project on a machine, make sure to clear the project from the program on the Prototype Lab computer. If you have a part you want to reuse, place the part inside the Prototype Lab Part Storage Folder on the computers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now, we understand that sometimes you need to leave things out. Maybe you are in the middle of a large print and you need something to run overnight. In cases like this, it is okay, but you NEED to '''''leave a note''''' on your system so that others know the situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When parts finish on a 3D printer, remove them from the build plate and place them in the completed parts bin so that the owner can pick up their part.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always put any unused materials from the laser cutter back on the storage shelf, and throw away unusable scrap.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Clear the computer of any files or images left over after completing your project.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sweep when needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Immediately clean up any spilled Formlabs resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always leave the space better than you found it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===3. Be Professional===&lt;br /&gt;
This commandment has two sides to it. It covers the idea of acting like professional (which Webster’s defines as “exhibiting a courteous, conscientious, and generally businesslike manner in the workplace”). The term also describes the standards of education and training that prepare members of the profession with the particular knowledge and skills necessary to perform their specific role within that profession. Hopefully, you are learning both of these as part of your education at George Fox University. In the Prototype Lab we expect you to develop as a courteous, conscientious, and skilled craftsman, understanding the tools and equipment in the Maker Hub and how to use them effectively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Being a professional has some obvious ramifications in terms of behavior. First, be Christlike. Think of others better than yourselves. Share. If you have been printing a lot or using the laser cutter for a prolonged time and someone else is waiting for the machine, let them use the machine for a while. This is being a professional.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are working with a machine, and you don’t know the proper way to do what you are attempting - ASK SOMEONE! Learn! Become a professional. Learn the craft. This is an educational space. You might think it will be quick and you can just get it done “your” way and not learn how to do it correctly. Be a Professional and learn the proper way, and then be available to teach others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One very important, and likely difficult part of being a professional is to correct others when they are not being professional. It is your responsibility to speak up when you see somebody doing something inappropriate. If you see somebody doing something unsafe, not resetting the space, or being unprofessional, the professional thing to do is to remind them of the three commandments and ask them politely to correct their action. This is OUR space, not any individual's. As a group, we expect everyone in the space to keep the space safe, clean, and operable for everyone. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If someone acts disgracefully unprofessional to you in the Prototype Lab, you are welcome to bring the issue to the attention of the Prototype Lab student staff or the Maker Hub staff.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General 3D Printing Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
3D printing is the process of joining material together to create a three-dimensional object using computer control. It is a form of additive manufacturing. Objects are created using a 3D model. There are many different types of 3D printing, and the Prototype Lab utilizes two types which are FDM (fused deposit modeling) and SLA (stereolithography). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the Prototype Lab, objects are most commonly printed from an STL file. This means if you create a part in SolidWorks that you must save the file as a .stl instead of a .sldprt . Once the file is in STL form, it can then be processed by a slicer software. The slicer software converts the 3D model into thin layers and produces a G-code file. G-codes communicate with the chosen 3D printer, giving it directions on how to print the object. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Different 3D printers will run with different slicer programs. Typically a program will allow you to edit various parts of the process. One common consideration will be the layer thickness. This is the resolution at which the printer will print at. Each printer will have its own range of resolution. The thinner the layer thickness (higher resolution), the more detail you will get, but the print will be created more slowly. The thicker the layers (lower resolution), the less detail you will receive, but the object will be printed more quickly. Another consideration is support. For objects with overhangs, holes, etc., support will be needed. This will give the printer a surface to print on so that it can continue to build the print layer by layer. Each printer uses supports differently. Some printers have break away support while other have dissolvable support material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that '''every print should be recorded in the Job Log'''. This allows the Lab to track the material usages and success rates of the printers, as well as recording the prices of every print. To record your print in the job log, go to the [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/16fEdNcuvR_GSNV2Emy1P7SpJdetXU7ts9uQy-Ok7dRk/edit?usp=sharing Job Log spreadsheet] and fill out the required fields. A good time to fill it out is right after you have finished setting up a print.  &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:3Dsupports.png|250px|thumb|right|Example of an object (blue) printed with supports (white)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are common places of potential failure which you should watch for every print. The following points of failure specifically apply to FDM prints.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Adhesion:&lt;br /&gt;
**When the print first starts, it is prudent to ensure that the filament is properly adhering to the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
**Watch the print until the first dozen layers have been printed to make sure it is starting off successfully.&lt;br /&gt;
**The print can start sliding around the plate at anytime, although it is much more likely to fail toward the beginning of the print.&lt;br /&gt;
**A tall and skinny print is much more likely to struggle with adhesion than a short and stout print. Taking time to discern the best orientation for your print is always a good call.&lt;br /&gt;
**Adding a raft (sometimes called a brim) will also help if you print is struggling with staying adhered to the plate.&lt;br /&gt;
*Clogging&lt;br /&gt;
**Sometimes the extruder will clog causing the print to fail.&lt;br /&gt;
**This typically can be seen when a clump of filament balls up at the end of the nozzle.&lt;br /&gt;
**If this occurs, immediately cancel the print and remove the clumped filament. Make sure that the nozzle is still able to extrude filament, if not, you may need to open up the extruder and clean it. Keep working on it until you are able to extrude filament again.&lt;br /&gt;
*Air Extruding&lt;br /&gt;
**This means that the extruder thinks it is extruding filament when it really is not.&lt;br /&gt;
**Immediately cancel the print. Then restart the print.&lt;br /&gt;
**If the printer is still air extruding, cancel the print and unload the filament. You can try reloading and starting the print again.&lt;br /&gt;
**If the problem persists, you will probably need to take the extruder apart and clean it out before attempting any further prints.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===1. Printer Types===&lt;br /&gt;
There are many different types of printers, such as Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), Stereolithography (SLA), Selective Laser Sintering (SLS), Selective Laser Melting (SLM), Digital Light Processing (DLP), Electronic Beam Melting (EBM), Laminated Object Manufacturing (LOM), Binder Jetting (BJ)... Each printer type employs different materials. The Prototype Lab has FDM and SLA machines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Information about FDM and SLA printers and which machines these are and what materials they can use which. In each printer's page, one can simply link it to this so they don't have to describe materials, just simply state which ones are used with it. Mostly this is all here so I remember to do it or someone else sees it and wants to do it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====&amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;SLA Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;SLA Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:InvertedSLA.png|302x302px|thumb|right|Inverted SLA Process]]&lt;br /&gt;
Stereolithography, SLA, is a part of the manufacturing technology of vat polymerization. This means a light source (laser) is used to cure liquid resin into a hard plastic.&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 is the only 3D printer that the Prototype Lab has that is an SLA printer. It utilizes the Upside Down or Inverted orientation.&lt;br /&gt;
The resin tank has a clear bottom with a surface the resin will not stick to. This allows the resin to cure against the bottom of the tank.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform is lowered into the resin until it is hovering above the bottom surface of the tank, as far away as the height of the layer to be constructed.&lt;br /&gt;
The laser is directed through the bottom of the tank and cures a layer of resin onto the build platform. Then, the resin tank slides over and the build platform raises. The wiper will then sweep across the tank to circulate the resin.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform will lower again, and the process will be repeated until the print is completed.&lt;br /&gt;
Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This de-lamination also causes the Form 2 to be the Prototype Lab's slowest 3D printer.&lt;br /&gt;
Once a part is finished on the Form 2, it must be removed off of the build plate. Try to avoid scraping the build plate when removing parts. Any excess resin must be washed off using the Form Wash, the part must be air dried so that any isopropyl alcohol from the Wash has evaporated, the part should be cured in the Form Cure, and supports should be clipped off. Any remaining support marks can be sanded off if so desired.&lt;br /&gt;
Extra information on SLA Printing can be found [https://formlabs.com/blog/ultimate-guide-to-stereolithography-sla-3d-printing/ here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====&amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;FDM Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;FDM Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;====&lt;br /&gt;
Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) printers use a thermoplastic filament, which is heated to its melting point, then extruded to create layers which then build an object. There are many different types of FDM printers. Some use a modeling material and a support material, some just use a modeling material which when creating support will use a different style of layering that allows the filament to break off easily, some are able to use multiple filaments at once allowing for multicolored objects to be created. [[File:Filament_Spool.jpg|250px|thumb|right|Example of a filament spool for a FDM printer.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Both Stratasys printers (F370's) use soluble support filament (the support filament dissolves in a heated sodium hydroxide bath), the Prusa printers use only a model material, and the Markforge printer only uses model material as well (however it will layer another filament for extra support). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The filament for these printers comes in spools (basically thin plastic ropes that are wound up). The filament is fed through an extruder head, heated to the desired temperature, then extruded (similar to what happens with a hot glue gun). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
FDM printers can work with various materials, in the Prototype Lab we mainly stick to ABS which is used by the Stratasys machines and PLA which is used by the Prusas. The Markforge uses a material called Onyx (nylon and plastic mix) and will layer in another filament such as Carbon Fiber, Kevlar, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General Laser Cutting Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
Laser cutting directs a high-powered laser through optics. The laser cutter follows a predetermined pattern to engrave or cut the material. Laser cutting is a great way to get a professional-looking surface finish. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Can be used for many different materials ranging between wood, glass, rock, plastics, and even engraving Hydroflasks. At this time, the laser cutter in the Prototype Lab is not set up for metal etching.&lt;br /&gt;
*Works best on flat surfaces or cylinders with constant diameters.&lt;br /&gt;
*Performing a cut or engrave with the laser will always begin with an image, pdf, DXF, or similar file.  When using SolidWorks you will need to save your file as a DXF using the selected face.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are a couple common steps that must be done correctly when using the laser cutter:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Always make sure that the lens and cone are clean before starting a print.&lt;br /&gt;
*Correctly focus the laser above the material, using the correct focusing tool for the lens type.&lt;br /&gt;
*Choose the correct material profile for the material you are using.&lt;br /&gt;
*Clean the bed of the laser cutter when you are finished.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Foxtale Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
Before working with any of the equipment in the prototype lab you will need to take the [https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1250 general lab quiz] as well as the specific quiz for each machine you are trying to use. The enrollment code for all of the quizzes is MakerHub.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;!--&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
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}}--&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Formlabs_3D_Printer&amp;diff=9012</id>
		<title>Formlabs 3D Printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Formlabs_3D_Printer&amp;diff=9012"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T16:32:25Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: foxtale =&amp;gt; canvas&lt;/p&gt;
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__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 is Formlab's 3rd generation printer boasting a whole range of new features including a new peeling mechanism, heated tank, touchscreen display, wireless controls and an automated resin system. The resulting prints that come off of the Form 2 have consistently been among the highest quality objects to come off of any desktop 3D printer. This machine is best used with the [[Form Wash and Cure]] &amp;lt;ref name=&amp;quot;:0&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Description adapted from [https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/form-2 3dhubs].&amp;lt;/ref&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 employs [[Prototype Lab#SLA Printing Anchor|SLA Printing]] (Stereolithography Apparatus). Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled in the PreForm software to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This ensures the wiper blade in the resin tank doesn't remove the print from the build plate. When reviewing the supports in PreForm, check to make sure all supports are created in areas from which they can be easily removed, or that supports created in inaccessible areas won't interfere with the print's intended function. Also check to make sure no supports are created on hard edges, as any placed supports will break up the edge, and removing them properly takes longer than necessary and can potentially damage the print.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tn5zA5bNSE}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert terminology here&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:TouchScreen.jpg|Touchscreen&lt;br /&gt;
File:...resinCartridge.jpg|Resin Cartridge&lt;br /&gt;
File:...form2BuildPlate.jpg|Build Platform&lt;br /&gt;
File:...ResinTray.png|Resin Tank&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Quick-Start-Guide?language=en_US Quick Start Guide]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/ Product Home Page]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/tech-specs/ Tech Specs]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/design-specs/ Design Specs]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 is most useful for its ability to print incredibly accurate parts, with layers as thin as .025mm thick, depending on the resin selected. Due to the size of the Form 2, it can only be used to print smaller pieces, and the extra layering for detail combined with the de-lamination process also causes the Form 2 to generally be the slowest printer in the lab. Unless an exception is made, a model with supports included should be no larger than 30mL worth of resin. If specific material properties are needed for a print, the Form 2 is a good option to look into thanks to the many differing resins available for use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To show a complete understanding of the Form 2, students will prepare a part, upload it to the Form 2, and print it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Setting up PreForm&lt;br /&gt;
##PreForm is the software we will use to import or model to the printer.  When connecting to PreForm you need to make sure the wifi is enabled and connected to bruin Secure. Make sure the correct printer is selected as well.&lt;br /&gt;
##To begin with, make sure the print is under the approved cost/size cutoff ($7), or the person printing has special approval to exceed this limit.&lt;br /&gt;
##If a window pops up saying the print is broken, hit the repair button then proceed as normal.&lt;br /&gt;
##Parts must be shrunk to fit within the build area, further size edits can be made in the Size tab.&lt;br /&gt;
###The goal is to reduce the horizontal area covered with each pass of the wiper. Start with auto-orienting the part using the 'Orient Selected' button in the Orientation tab, this is a good place to start and will make it easier to see if the part needs further orientation.[[File:Size set.jpg|none|thumb| Image 1-Model too big for build plate--Image 2-Model shrunk to fit build plate]]&lt;br /&gt;
##Don't place supports on hard edges (right angles) or in inaccessible places. This will cause the print to be unprintable.&lt;br /&gt;
##Every part that needs support should have support - PreForm will highlight unsupported areas in red, place supports until the red areas go away. '''Check the part thoroughly because PreForm will not let you print with unsupported areas.'''&lt;br /&gt;
##Supports can be added, edited, and removed in the PreForm Supports tab.&lt;br /&gt;
###Support density should be between .5 and .7.   '''''[Note - Is this a setting or a dimension?]'''''&lt;br /&gt;
###Support point size should be between .6mm and .8mm.&lt;br /&gt;
###These values can be edited if necessary to ensure printability, just use common sense when adjusting values.&lt;br /&gt;
##The Layout tab can be used to add additional copies of a part.&lt;br /&gt;
##Ensure you are connected to Bruin Secure wifi with the proper printer and resin type selected in Preform prior to printing. Additionally, make sure that the resin you want is already installed in the printers. If the resin needs to be changed to the one that you want, ask a Lab Volunteer to help you.&lt;br /&gt;
#Choosing a Resin Type&lt;br /&gt;
##Go through each of these resin types to evaluate which material you will make your part out of. Once you have finished, you can send the file from the computer to the Formlabs printer&lt;br /&gt;
##Black/grey standard: the Standard Resins section of [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Choosing-the-Right-Material?language=en_US Choosing the Right Material].&lt;br /&gt;
###Pros: high detail, matte surfaces, good for small, intricate features.&lt;br /&gt;
###Cons: not particularly strong, stretchy, or flexible.&lt;br /&gt;
##Tough: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Tough-Resin?language=en_US Tough]&lt;br /&gt;
###Pros: good for hard edges, snap fits, and high-stresses.&lt;br /&gt;
###Cons: bad for fine details and rigid prints, will not stretch as much as Durable.&lt;br /&gt;
##Durable: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Durable-Resin?language=en_US Durable]&lt;br /&gt;
###Pros: low-friction, high impact strength, good for parts that are both rigid and flexible.&lt;br /&gt;
###Cons: bad for fine detail parts.&lt;br /&gt;
##Flexible: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Flexible-Resin?language=en_US Flexible]&lt;br /&gt;
###Pros: can simulate rubber when uncured, good for functional prototyping.&lt;br /&gt;
###Cons: bad for fine detail or applications when rigidity or hardness are required.&lt;br /&gt;
##See the respective links for each resin for in-depth descriptions of each resin's properties and suggested applications, or look at [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Choosing-the-Right-Material?language=en_US Choosing the Right Material] for a shorter overview. Most resins do not handle high temperatures or constant loading well.&lt;br /&gt;
#Operating the Touchscreen&lt;br /&gt;
##You will be able to start your print using the touchscreen on the Form 2. If it is sleeping, just press the button and it should wake up.&lt;br /&gt;
##When it wakes up, you will likely see this screen. It displays the most recently prepared job and gives you the option to print now by pressing the blue button on the bottom right of the screen.[[File:TouchScreen.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
##There are two other buttons you can press on the left screen. The USB button will take you to the settings of the printer, so you will not need to go here. The checklist button brings a list of every job that has been uploaded to the printer, so you will want to be selecting this one to find your print. When you find your print, select &amp;quot;print now&amp;quot;. The printer will make sure that you perform the appropriate setup before it starts printing, such as inserting the tank in the back of the printer and assuring that the build plate is cleared of other printed parts.&lt;br /&gt;
##The print will begin its process once you hit Print Now! A time estimate will be provided.&lt;br /&gt;
#Removing Prints&lt;br /&gt;
##Your part should now be finished! Follow these steps to clean it up.&lt;br /&gt;
##Finished prints&lt;br /&gt;
###Use a scraping tool to remove the print and any extra material from the build plate, taking care to not scratch the build plate. Go as carefully and as slowly as needed to prevent damaging the print.&lt;br /&gt;
####The build plate stand can be used for easier removal.&lt;br /&gt;
###Wash the print in the Form Wash.&lt;br /&gt;
###If the print is being cured, only remove support material after it has been run through the Form Cure.&lt;br /&gt;
###Supports should be clipped off, and any leftover support material can be sanded down if desired.&lt;br /&gt;
##Failed prints&lt;br /&gt;
###Follow the same process for finished prints for removing.&lt;br /&gt;
###'''When a print fails, the build plate must be cleaned and run through the Wash''' before a new print can be started, as leftover residue from the failed print can cause subsequent prints to also fail. You will also need to check the resin tank for clumps as well as double check the model orientation.  Don't forget to update the job log as well.&lt;br /&gt;
#Washing and Curing Prints&lt;br /&gt;
##See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page.&lt;br /&gt;
#Changing Resin&lt;br /&gt;
##If the Formlabs Printer resin tray does not contain the resin you want, allow Lab volunteers to provide the desired resin.&lt;br /&gt;
##Remove, clean, and replace the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
###Pull lever holding build plate in place up, allowing the build plate to be removed.&lt;br /&gt;
###Place the build plate on the holding rack in the Form Wash. Run the build plate through the Wash to remove resin. For the build plate, the Wash should be set to 10 minutes.&lt;br /&gt;
###Let the build plate air dry before replacing, secure by flipping lever down.&lt;br /&gt;
##Remove and replace resin tank and wiper.&lt;br /&gt;
###Firmly pull wiper back until it's out of its slot and loose in the resin tank. Leave the wiper in the resin tank, each tank has its own wiper.&lt;br /&gt;
###Firmly pull tank back until it pops loose of the printer, put the appropriate lid on the resin tank, and store with wiper in tank.&lt;br /&gt;
###Before inserting the new resin tank, remove its lid and store.&lt;br /&gt;
###Slot the new resin tank into place in the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
###Use a scraping tool to dredge bottom of new resin tank for any hardened resin or loose bits of material, remove any found bits.&lt;br /&gt;
###Slot the new tank's wiper into place.&lt;br /&gt;
###Be sure to clean up any resin that spills during this process.&lt;br /&gt;
##Remove and replace the resin cartridge in the back of the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
###Close the lid of the cartridge if it's open.&lt;br /&gt;
###Pull cartridge out of the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
###Wipe dry the resin drip on the bottom of the cartridge, then store.&lt;br /&gt;
###Insert new resin cartridge, '''of the same resin as the tank'''.&lt;br /&gt;
###Open lid on resin cartridge before starting a print, and close after.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
The most dangerous part of using the Form 2 is taking the part off of the build plate. The scraping tool could hurt your little fingers, so make sure you do not hit them. Also, the alcohol used to clean the print is not for drinking purposes. It is both against the lifestyle contract and very harmful to you if you drink it, so do not do it.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1237 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
If a print fails, the most likely cause is contamination of the resin. Before proceeding, see the procedure for Failed Prints. Contamination of the resin involves leftover material on the build plate, or particulates in the resin tank. Before attempting a new print, thoroughly clean the build plate, and dredge the resin tank for any loose particles. Another cause is incorrect orientation of the print. Check the print file in question, and ensure it has been canted accordingly to prevent the de-laminating process from removing the print from the build plate. Make sure to also update the job log.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Old resin and resin tanks can also present issues.  '''Don't ever mix resin types.''' If a resin tanks is particularly cloudy on the bottom, the laser will be prevented from being able to penetrate the tank, and cause adhesion issues for the print. Resin can also go bad after sitting for long periods of time or being used heavily. This can be evidenced by discoloration of the resin or separation of the resin into unmixed layers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Dredging: Every few prints the resin tank should be checked and dredged with a scraping tool to search for any hardened resin or loose bits of material, as well as when resin tanks are switched out, and when a print fails. Remove any found bits. Dredging is done by sweeping a scraping tool back and forth across the bottom of the resin tank, essentially mixing up the resin to stir up any loose bits. Take care while dredging to not scrape the tank. See a resin's particular page on the Formlabs website for additional cleaning instruction. If the tank is not cleanable, switch out the resin tank. If the problem persists, it's possible the resin cartridge needs to be switched out as well.&lt;br /&gt;
#Alcohol in the Form Wash must be changed once a certain threshold of washed-off resin enters the tank. See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page for details.&lt;br /&gt;
#Old resin and resin tanks will occasionally need to be changed out&lt;br /&gt;
#[https://support.formlabs.com/hc/en-us/categories/115000003904-Form-2 Form 2 Sources and Help]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Dredging&lt;br /&gt;
|Every few prints&lt;br /&gt;
|Lab Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Changing Alcohol&lt;br /&gt;
|Once a certain threshold of washed-off resin enters the tank. See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page for details.&lt;br /&gt;
|Lab Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|General Cleaning&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use. Reset The Space!&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Resources==&lt;br /&gt;
[[Form Wash and Cure]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Prototype Lab#SLA Printing Anchor|SLA Printing]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Link to shop [[Equipment]] page&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;references /&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=F370_3D_Printer&amp;diff=9010</id>
		<title>F370 3D Printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=F370_3D_Printer&amp;diff=9010"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T16:31:16Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: foxtale =&amp;gt; canvas&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;[[File:..f370.jpg|thumb|412x412px]]&lt;br /&gt;
{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31282&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Stratasys&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=F370&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=D-30365 (Alpha) / D-30809 (Omega)&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has group=Prototype Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Kyler Howard;khoward19@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:F370 3D printer.png|left|140x140px|frameless]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The F370 is an [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing Anchor|FDM]] (fused deposit modeling) printer made by Stratasys. It is capable of producing highly accurate parts, whether for prototyping or functional use. The F370 shares the same brand and concept as the [[Dimension 3D Printer|Dimension]] printer, but with subtle differences in operation and maintenance. The F370 boasts the largest build plate in the Prototype lab. Combined with its high accuracy and consistency, the F370 can be left overnight to print multiple parts prepared throughout the day with little worry about print failures.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Stratasys printers utilize dissolving support material that leaves no surface damage from breaking off supports and allows for creative parts that are impossible on other printers. This printer is a great option for highly detailed or complex parts, parts containing holes that require high tolerances, parts that take advantage of the dissolving support material, bulk prints, or overflow from the Prusa printers when they are full. Currently, the Prototype Lab has two F370 printers available for use. Printing parts on the F370 costs more than printing on the Prusa printers.  If your part will cost more than $12 to print you will need to get approval from the supervisor on shift.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8K4YTekXRw}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:F370 Touchscreen.jpg|Touchscreen&lt;br /&gt;
File:...storageDrawer.png|Storage Drawer&lt;br /&gt;
File:...materialBayDrawer.png|Material Bay Drawer&lt;br /&gt;
File:...buildPlate.jpg|Build Plate&lt;br /&gt;
File:...materialSpool.jpg|Material Spool&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.stratasys.com/3d-printers/f123 Product Home Page]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.stratasys.com/-/media/files/documentation/fdm/F123-Series/User-Guide/F123%20Series%20User%20Guide_d/ User Guide]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.stratasys.com/-/media/files/documentation/fdm/F123-Series/Operation-Guide/F123_Series_Operation%20and%20Maintenance_REV_A.pdf/ Operation and Maintenance Manual]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://help.grabcad.com/ GrabCAD Help Page]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The basic workflow for using the F370 will be as follows: Preparing the Printer, Preparing Your File for Print, Printing Your Part, Soaking Your Part. First, you prepare the printer so that it is physically ready to print any design you give it. Second, you prepare the part on the software used by the F370. This generates a file that tells the machine how to produce your part. Third, the machine prints your part. Fourth, you soak the part in the bath so that it dissolves all the support material. Then you have a finished part! Each section below will have specific information relevant to each step. You are encouraged to speak with a lab volunteer for advice and guidance for any step of the process. If you need to print a part for a class project make sure you get it added to the pack at least 3 days before it will be needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To show a complete knowledge of the F370, students will bring in a part, prepare it on the machine, print it, and soak it in the support bath.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Preparing the F370&lt;br /&gt;
##Powering on the Printer&lt;br /&gt;
###The F370 can be powered on by pressing the large power button next to the touch screen console on the front of the printer. The printer may take up to 15 minutes to boot up, so do this step first if you plan to print soon.&lt;br /&gt;
##Before you can open your part in GrabCAD, make sure your part is in the '''.'''STL format.&lt;br /&gt;
##Acceptable Prints&lt;br /&gt;
###The maximum part size is 14 x 10 x 14 inches, or 35.56 x 25.4 x 35.56 centimeters, because that is how large the build plate is. Any part that is larger should be shown to a lab volunteer to discuss options.&lt;br /&gt;
###Generally, a part will be fit for the F370 if it is highly detailed and/or has holes that require fairly high tolerances. If it is a small, detailed part, a Form 2 printer should suffice. If the part is quick and simple, a Prusa will likely suffice.&lt;br /&gt;
###If your part is designed to take advantage of the dissolving support material the Stratasys machines use, then verify with a lab volunteer that it will be okay to print.&lt;br /&gt;
###Even if you are certain your part belongs on the F370, double check with a lab volunteer before you add it to the pack. Their goal is to help you, but the Prototype Lab would like to avoid excessively expensive and/or unnecessary prints.&lt;br /&gt;
#Preparing the file: GrabCAD&lt;br /&gt;
##GrabCAD Print is the software shared by both F370s. It allows one to easily orient and view the part that needs to be printed. Both printers are web based, which allows one to start the print from the one of the lab's computers. '''Give yourself a few days before your project is due to print on either F370.''' Prints will generally be started when a tray is full or by a lab volunteer at the end of a day. It is unlikely your print will be started just because you waited until the last minute. Be proactive.&lt;br /&gt;
##On Opening GrabCAD, make sure that you navigate to the bottom right of the screen and select the menu next to &amp;quot;Print.&amp;quot; Select the printer you want to use; in this case, the F370, which will appear as &amp;quot;f370D30365&amp;quot;. The volunteers in the lab can help you determine which printer would work best.&lt;br /&gt;
##To begin preparing your part, click on &amp;quot;Add Models&amp;quot;. This is how you import your file into GrabCAD.  '''Your file must be in .stl format.''' After you have added your part, you can begin preparing it to be printed. Multiple models can be added to the project. Additionally, models can be placed on new trays if the current one runs out of space.[[File:Icons.png|300x300px|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
##Notice that once a part has been added, an hourglass shaped tower will appear next to your part and scale with the size of your part. This is called a &amp;quot;purge tower&amp;quot; and is where a printer expels excess material upon switching filaments. The purge tower can be moved around on the plate as needed, but cannot be rotated. To move your part on the plate, one can simply click and drag to place it where they want to be printed. Keep in mind that the build plate is to scale, where you place it in the software will be where it prints in reality.&lt;br /&gt;
##To change how one is viewing the plate, hold on the middle mouse button and drag to move the plate, or click and hold the right mouse button to orient the angle the plate is viewed from. There are also icons on top to choose various viewpoints, such as an isometric view, top, left, etc. The icons on the right side of the screen are your print options. All of the options are intuitive, but you are still encouraged to practice manipulating your part so you understand how to use each function. The top three 'icons are different views, starting from a normal Model View, which is roughly how your part will appear when done.&lt;br /&gt;
##Analysis Mode shows faulty areas of a part, and Slice Preview shows model material and support material in the part. Below the Slice Preview Icon is the Model Info, where you can change the units of a selected part if needed.&lt;br /&gt;
##Next is Print Settings, which will be addressed below. The Arrange icon automatically arranges parts to optimize print time. Orient allows one to either let the software orient the part, orient a particular face to a plane, or rotate the model on the XYZ axis. Lastly, the Scale icon gives the option to change the size of the model, either with uniform scaling or on a particular axis. It also gives you the part dimension for each axis.&lt;br /&gt;
##'''You MUST print your part with &amp;quot;Sparse - low density&amp;quot; fill.''' It is expensive to print with Stratasys materials, thus you must consult a lab volunteer if you have a part you feel needs a denser fill. All of standard settings generally do not need to be changed.[[File:Density.png|thumb|none|300x300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
##If you would like more information on specifics, head to the GrabCAD website's [https://help.grabcad.com/article/199-take-a-quick-tour Help Center] for further details and tips, guides, or answers to FAQs. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8K4YTekXRw This] video contains a basic rundown of GrabCAD. Remember that the lab volunteers are available to answer your questions or provide assistance.&lt;br /&gt;
##??&lt;br /&gt;
#Printing the part: F370 Touchscreen Operation&lt;br /&gt;
##After your part has been prepared, save the project before continuing. Generally, you will not start the print in the lab itself, since a volunteer will start it when a tray is full or when the day ends, but the workflow is as follows.&lt;br /&gt;
##Select &amp;quot;Print.&amp;quot; The software will prepare the print. For larger packs, this may take several minutes, but usually takes around 30 seconds. If a print is currently ongoing, a bar across the top will read, &amp;quot;Print job queued successfully.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
##Once your part has been prepared, you can click on on &amp;quot;View Estimates&amp;quot; in the bottom right-hand corner. You will see print time and the amount of model and support material that will be used, in cubic inches (in^3). This is an example of what the tray estimation page looks like. The model and support material used can be input into the Job Log in the lab.[[File:Estimate.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
##Touchscreen operation on the F370 is highly intuitive. In the image below, the four icons on the left are as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
###Home - Displays the current tray to be printed. If a print is in progress, it will display how much time is left in the print and what is being printed. After a few minutes, a screen saver will switch between displaying which layer is being printed and how much time is left on the current print.&lt;br /&gt;
###Queue - Shows which trays are queued. This can also be viewed in GrabCAD.&lt;br /&gt;
###Materials - Display which material trays contain material, what kind of material is in the F370, and how much material is left. It also displays tip temperature for each respective material.&lt;br /&gt;
###Tools - The last menu has various settings and functions for the printer. One of the icons in this menu will be a sun, which turns the light inside the printer on and off so a print can be viewed. Otherwise, do not mess with or change settings without speaking to a volunteer first.  [[File:F370_Touchscreen.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
###To start your print, the image above shows the home screen for the console. If a build plate is in place, the F370 has sufficient materials, and the correct tray is displayed, simply select &amp;quot;Print&amp;quot; and the print will begin.&lt;br /&gt;
#Soaking the part: Dissolvable Support Bath&lt;br /&gt;
##You will need to soak your finished part in the Dissolvable Support Bath in order to remove the support material. Much of it can be removed with pliers, but the remainder needs to be taken care of with the bath.&lt;br /&gt;
##For more information, see the [[Dissolvable Support Bath]] page. This section will contain basic information on what to do with the parts and bath, with basic safety info (gloves, goggles, washing yourself, spill, etc) and &amp;quot;see bath page for more detailed information&amp;quot; on particular topics.&lt;br /&gt;
#Build Plates&lt;br /&gt;
##F370 build plates are reusable, but when parts are removed from the plate, they often leave layers of support material that are extremely difficult to remove, rendering that part of the plate unusable. If a large pack or part is queued and a new plate is required for a print, go ahead and use a new plate. If a print or pack is smaller and can be printed without interference from unusable parts of a plate, try your best to reuse plates.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#When you are removing the support material by hand, it can be a little hot and sharp to begin with. Using a tool of some sort to chip it off is a good way to go, because hands bleed and tools don't :)&lt;br /&gt;
#When using the dissolvable support bath, do not use your bare hands to put your parts in! The liquid consists of water and Sodium Hydroxide which is a strong base! Use goggles, a lab coat, and the huge thick rubber gloves so that you don't get any on you.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1229 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#If GrabCAD says printer isn't available, then it is not started up. Make sure the printer has been on for a while so it can connect to the network appropriately.&lt;br /&gt;
#It may take a while to start the print if your printer was just recently used. It can take 2 hours to heat up before the printing the job begins.&lt;br /&gt;
#Make sure you have enough material in the material bay to complete the print before you begin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are a few things students and the ace will need to do while performing maintenance tasks or the F370.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Changing Materials&lt;br /&gt;
|When the amount of material gets low&lt;br /&gt;
|Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Removing Material from Build Plate&lt;br /&gt;
|After every print&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Changing Materials (Loading Filament Spools)&lt;br /&gt;
##Only volunteers will change out materials. If the F370 runs out of filament or you would like to use a different color, please speak to a lab volunteer.&lt;br /&gt;
##There are four material bays within the F370. The top drawer houses the material bays and their material drive controller, which feeds the filament from the bay to the head. '''The material drive controller detects whether material is in the material drive  during the load and unload process and it can also detect errors, when filament is broken, or when the end of the spool is reached via a filament present switch.  [''This sentence needs to be revised by someone that understands the details of the &amp;quot;material drive] [I gave it a try, probably needs an expert to review - CZ]''''' The print will be paused if any of these things occur so the print can be recovered and filament reloaded.&lt;br /&gt;
##Select the '''Materials''' button from the touchscreen.&lt;br /&gt;
##Open the material bay drawer. That is the biggest drawer on the bottom half of the F370.&lt;br /&gt;
##Insert the material spool into its appropriate slot. In the Prototype Lab, the two bays on the left will contain model material, while the bays on the right will contain support material.&lt;br /&gt;
###Pull up on the latch securing the lid and open the lid.&lt;br /&gt;
###Place the material spool into the slot. Make sure the filament tail is facing the back wall of the material bay (printer side).&lt;br /&gt;
###Once the spool is inserted, the Material Status icon will display a solid yellow border with a notification badge above the icon.&lt;br /&gt;
##Open the Materials Details page by tapping on the status icon for the bay you are loading material into.&lt;br /&gt;
##Slowly turn the spool and feed filament through the filament hole.&lt;br /&gt;
###The filament needs to be advanced approximately 2 inches to reach the filament present switch. When the switch is reached, the Load button will refresh into a selectable state.&lt;br /&gt;
###When feeding filament, be careful to ensure that filament does not fall over the edge of the spool to avoid cross-winding and/or load errors.&lt;br /&gt;
##Once the filament present switch detects filament, select the Load icon.&lt;br /&gt;
##Press the Back button within the Material Details page to exit and return to the Materials page.&lt;br /&gt;
##Material will begin to load and the F370 will take care of the rest, automatically heating both the oven and liquefier  tip to the correct temperatures for the material being used.&lt;br /&gt;
##Once the tip is within three degrees of the set point temperature the head moves to the purge area and the tip purges a small amount of material.&lt;br /&gt;
##Once material is loaded, the filament pathway between the Material Status Icon and the corresponding Head Status Icon will be solid blue, the Head Status Icon will turn from gray to blue, and the Material Status Icon will display a solid blue border.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=9008</id>
		<title>Prototype Lab</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=9008"/>
		<updated>2021-07-22T16:29:41Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: foxtale =&amp;gt; canvas&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
  |Has ace=Kyler Howard;khoward19@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
  |Is facility = True&lt;br /&gt;
  |Has certification=https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31319&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab contains a group of 3D printers and 2 laser cutters! [[File:prototype_lab.jpeg|300px|thumb|The Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current Maker Hub Student Staff in the {{PAGENAME}} are '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}) and Emily Erickson (eerickson18@georgefox.edu). &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Schedule=&lt;br /&gt;
View the most up-to-date {{PAGENAME}} schedule [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/18hIb8klZ1hCLjVHk0eRi-_QaOWjuZ9XF1I1HIUDEL_I/edit?usp=sharing on this Google Sheet.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Equipment Overview=&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::true]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has make=Company&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has model=Model |+width=10em&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has ace.Has name=Current Ace&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=broadtable&lt;br /&gt;
 |mainlabel=Name&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Equipment by Icon==&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::True]][[Has icon::+]] [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has icon=Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Is located in facility&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=plainlist&lt;br /&gt;
 |template=EquipmentIconGallery&lt;br /&gt;
 |outrotemplate=EquipmentIconGalleryOutro&lt;br /&gt;
 |limit=100&lt;br /&gt;
 |link=none&lt;br /&gt;
 |sort=Is located in facility&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==[[3 commandments]]==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===1. Safety First===&lt;br /&gt;
Safety First is the rule we hold highest of the three. Given the delicate nature of our machines, and the different chemicals and materials we use in the Prototype lab, this rule applies to both the safety of you, and the machines.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keeping yourself safe in the Prototype Lab is very easy, as there are very few ways to hurt yourself or the machines. However, proper procedure must be followed at all times.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Basic principles of how to implement Safety First in the Prototype Lab:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Do not touch the extruder heads of the 3D printers when they are running. They will be very hot and will burn you. Wait for the machine to cool off.&lt;br /&gt;
*Use gloves when handling chemicals such as Sodium Hydroxide (use the heat protecting gloves when retrieving items from the Sodium Hydroxide bath), Isopropyl or Denatured Alcohol (use Nitrile gloves if handling extensively after removing from the Form Wash), and Lacquer Thinner (use Nitrile gloves when using lacquer thinner to clean residue off of engraved Hydroflasks). You may use gloves whenever you feel necessary, but these are circumstances where gloves are absolutely required.&lt;br /&gt;
*In addition to wearing gloves when around the Sodium Hydroxide, you must also wear safety goggles (preferably the goggles, but if those are unavailable then use safety glasses). A lab coat needs to be worn to protect from splashes. All of these items can be found within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
*Make sure you read through the SDS (Safety Data Sheets) binder mounted by the sink so that you are up-to-date on safety procedures regarding the chemicals within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
*If chemicals ever get on your skin or in your eyes, follow the SDS. Wash it off or out (there is an eye washing station in front of the Machine Shop about 30 feet feet away). If it is an emergency, do what you need to do to make sure you and those around you are safe.&lt;br /&gt;
*Make sure you know how to use the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
*If there is a chemical spill, we do have a spill kit. First, evacuate the lab and get everyone out. This means the lab should be shut down until the spill has been properly dealt with. Second, call Justin Johnson whose information should be posted next to the Emergency Response Guide (bright yellow and by the door leading to the main space). If Justin does not answer, call the Campus Public Safety office (formerly Security Services) whose information will be in the Emergency Response Guide or can be found online. Third, if you feel it is safe to do so, deploy the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
*Be aware that laser cut items can have sharp edges that could cut you.&lt;br /&gt;
*Be careful when trying to remove support material by hand from a print off of the Dimension. When the support material breaks, it leaves sharp edges and shatters extremely sharp shards that will cut you if you are not careful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===2. Reset the Space===&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab has a specific organization to it, even though sometimes it looks like chaos. Put whatever you use back where it belongs. There is a place for everything and everything has a place. This rule applies to everything in the space. If you move a chair, put it back. If you use a tool, put it back. If you use a pen, put it back. Do not leave your projects in the Prototype Lab, take them with you. Do not leave random note sheets that pertain to nothing out. Throw away your trash and recycling. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We have allowed food and drink in the space. Resetting the Space means that you don’t leave wrappers, or trays, or anything that wasn’t there when you came in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are employed in the space, this still applies to you. Do not take tools from the Hub and then store them in the Lab. If we need more tools, speak with Ben and Gabi and they can evaluate the situation and, if necessary, they will get more tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After you have started your project on a machine, make sure to clear the project from the program on the Prototype Lab computer. If you have a part you want to reuse, place the part inside the Prototype Lab Part Storage Folder on the computers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now, we understand that sometimes you need to leave things out. Maybe you are in the middle of a large print and you need something to run overnight. In cases like this, it is okay, but you NEED to '''''leave a note''''' on your system so that others know the situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When parts finish on a 3D printer, remove them from the build plate and place them in the completed parts bin so that the owner can pick up their part.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always put any unused materials from the laser cutter back on the storage shelf, and throw away unusable scrap.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Clear the computer of any files or images left over after completing your project.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sweep when needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Immediately clean up any spilled Formlabs resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always leave the space better than you found it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===3. Be Professional===&lt;br /&gt;
This commandment has two sides to it. It covers the idea of acting like professional (which Webster’s defines as “exhibiting a courteous, conscientious, and generally businesslike manner in the workplace”). The term also describes the standards of education and training that prepare members of the profession with the particular knowledge and skills necessary to perform their specific role within that profession. Hopefully, you are learning both of these as part of your education at George Fox University. In the Prototype Lab we expect you to develop as a courteous, conscientious, and skilled craftsman, understanding the tools and equipment in the Maker Hub and how to use them effectively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Being a professional has some obvious ramifications in terms of behavior. First, be Christlike. Think of others better than yourselves. Share. If you have been printing a lot or using the laser cutter for a prolonged time and someone else is waiting for the machine, let them use the machine for a while. This is being a professional.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are working with a machine, and you don’t know the proper way to do what you are attempting - ASK SOMEONE! Learn! Become a professional. Learn the craft. This is an educational space. You might think it will be quick and you can just get it done “your” way and not learn how to do it correctly. Be a Professional and learn the proper way, and then be available to teach others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One very important, and likely difficult part of being a professional is to correct others when they are not being professional. It is your responsibility to speak up when you see somebody doing something inappropriate. If you see somebody doing something unsafe, not resetting the space, or being unprofessional, the professional thing to do is to remind them of the three commandments and ask them politely to correct their action. This is OUR space, not any individual's. As a group, we expect everyone in the space to keep the space safe, clean, and operable for everyone. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If someone acts disgracefully unprofessional to you in the Prototype Lab, you are welcome to bring the issue to the attention of the Prototype Lab student staff or the Maker Hub staff.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General 3D Printing Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
3D printing is the process of joining material together to create a three-dimensional object using computer control. It is a form of additive manufacturing. Objects are created using a 3D model. There are many different types of 3D printing, and the Prototype Lab utilizes two types which are FDM (fused deposit modeling) and SLA (stereolithography). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the Prototype Lab, objects are most commonly printed from an STL file. This means if you create a part in SolidWorks that you must save the file as a .stl instead of a .sldprt . Once the file is in STL form, it can then be processed by a slicer software. The slicer software converts the 3D model into thin layers and produces a G-code file. G-codes communicate with the chosen 3D printer, giving it directions on how to print the object. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Different 3D printers will run with different slicer programs. Typically a program will allow you to edit various parts of the process. One common consideration will be the layer thickness. This is the resolution at which the printer will print at. Each printer will have its own range of resolution. The thinner the layer thickness (higher resolution), the more detail you will get, but the print will be created more slowly. The thicker the layers (lower resolution), the less detail you will receive, but the object will be printed more quickly. Another consideration is support. For objects with overhangs, holes, etc., support will be needed. This will give the printer a surface to print on so that it can continue to build the print layer by layer. Each printer uses supports differently. Some printers have break away support while other have dissolvable support material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that '''every print should be recorded in the Job Log'''. This allows the Lab to track the material usages and success rates of the printers, as well as recording the prices of every print. To record your print in the job log, go to the [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/16fEdNcuvR_GSNV2Emy1P7SpJdetXU7ts9uQy-Ok7dRk/edit?usp=sharing Job Log spreadsheet] and fill out the required fields. A good time to fill it out is right after you have finished setting up a print.  &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:3Dsupports.png|250px|thumb|right|Example of an object (blue) printed with supports (white)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are common places of potential failure which you should watch for every print. The following points of failure specifically apply to FDM prints.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Adhesion:&lt;br /&gt;
**When the print first starts, it is prudent to ensure that the filament is properly adhering to the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
**Watch the print until the first dozen layers have been printed to make sure it is starting off successfully.&lt;br /&gt;
**The print can start sliding around the plate at anytime, although it is much more likely to fail toward the beginning of the print.&lt;br /&gt;
**A tall and skinny print is much more likely to struggle with adhesion than a short and stout print. Taking time to discern the best orientation for your print is always a good call.&lt;br /&gt;
**Adding a raft (sometimes called a brim) will also help if you print is struggling with staying adhered to the plate.&lt;br /&gt;
*Clogging&lt;br /&gt;
**Sometimes the extruder will clog causing the print to fail.&lt;br /&gt;
**This typically can be seen when a clump of filament balls up at the end of the nozzle.&lt;br /&gt;
**If this occurs, immediately cancel the print and remove the clumped filament. Make sure that the nozzle is still able to extrude filament, if not, you may need to open up the extruder and clean it. Keep working on it until you are able to extrude filament again.&lt;br /&gt;
*Air Extruding&lt;br /&gt;
**This means that the extruder thinks it is extruding filament when it really is not.&lt;br /&gt;
**Immediately cancel the print. Then restart the print.&lt;br /&gt;
**If the printer is still air extruding, cancel the print and unload the filament. You can try reloading and starting the print again.&lt;br /&gt;
**If the problem persists, you will probably need to take the extruder apart and clean it out before attempting any further prints.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===1. Printer Types===&lt;br /&gt;
There are many different types of printers, such as Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), Stereolithography (SLA), Selective Laser Sintering (SLS), Selective Laser Melting (SLM), Digital Light Processing (DLP), Electronic Beam Melting (EBM), Laminated Object Manufacturing (LOM), Binder Jetting (BJ)... Each printer type employs different materials. The Prototype Lab has FDM and SLA machines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Information about FDM and SLA printers and which machines these are and what materials they can use which. In each printer's page, one can simply link it to this so they don't have to describe materials, just simply state which ones are used with it. Mostly this is all here so I remember to do it or someone else sees it and wants to do it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====&amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;SLA Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;SLA Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:InvertedSLA.png|302x302px|thumb|right|Inverted SLA Process]]&lt;br /&gt;
Stereolithography, SLA, is a part of the manufacturing technology of vat polymerization. This means a light source (laser) is used to cure liquid resin into a hard plastic.&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 is the only 3D printer that the Prototype Lab has that is an SLA printer. It utilizes the Upside Down or Inverted orientation.&lt;br /&gt;
The resin tank has a clear bottom with a surface the resin will not stick to. This allows the resin to cure against the bottom of the tank.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform is lowered into the resin until it is hovering above the bottom surface of the tank, as far away as the height of the layer to be constructed.&lt;br /&gt;
The laser is directed through the bottom of the tank and cures a layer of resin onto the build platform. Then, the resin tank slides over and the build platform raises. The wiper will then sweep across the tank to circulate the resin.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform will lower again, and the process will be repeated until the print is completed.&lt;br /&gt;
Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This de-lamination also causes the Form 2 to be the Prototype Lab's slowest 3D printer.&lt;br /&gt;
Once a part is finished on the Form 2, it must be removed off of the build plate. Try to avoid scraping the build plate when removing parts. Any excess resin must be washed off using the Form Wash, the part must be air dried so that any isopropyl alcohol from the Wash has evaporated, the part should be cured in the Form Cure, and supports should be clipped off. Any remaining support marks can be sanded off if so desired.&lt;br /&gt;
Extra information on SLA Printing can be found [https://formlabs.com/blog/ultimate-guide-to-stereolithography-sla-3d-printing/ here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====&amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;FDM Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;FDM Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;====&lt;br /&gt;
Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) printers use a thermoplastic filament, which is heated to its melting point, then extruded to create layers which then build an object. There are many different types of FDM printers. Some use a modeling material and a support material, some just use a modeling material which when creating support will use a different style of layering that allows the filament to break off easily, some are able to use multiple filaments at once allowing for multicolored objects to be created. [[File:Filament_Spool.jpg|250px|thumb|right|Example of a filament spool for a FDM printer.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Both Stratasys printers (F370's) use soluble support filament (the support filament dissolves in a heated sodium hydroxide bath), the Prusa printers use only a model material, and the Markforge printer only uses model material as well (however it will layer another filament for extra support). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The filament for these printers comes in spools (basically thin plastic ropes that are wound up). The filament is fed through an extruder head, heated to the desired temperature, then extruded (similar to what happens with a hot glue gun). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
FDM printers can work with various materials, in the Prototype Lab we mainly stick to ABS which is used by the Stratasys machines and PLA which is used by the Prusas. The Markforge uses a material called Onyx (nylon and plastic mix) and will layer in another filament such as Carbon Fiber, Kevlar, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General Laser Cutting Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
Laser cutting directs a high-powered laser through optics. The laser cutter follows a predetermined pattern to engrave or cut the material. Laser cutting is a great way to get a professional-looking surface finish. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Can be used for many different materials ranging between wood, glass, rock, plastics, and even engraving Hydroflasks. At this time, the laser cutter in the Prototype Lab is not set up for metal etching.&lt;br /&gt;
*Works best on flat surfaces or cylinders with constant diameters.&lt;br /&gt;
*Performing a cut or engrave with the laser will always begin with an image, pdf, DXF, or similar file.  When using SolidWorks you will need to save your file as a DXF using the selected face.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are a couple common steps that must be done correctly when using the laser cutter:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Always make sure that the lens and cone are clean before starting a print.&lt;br /&gt;
*Correctly focus the laser above the material, using the correct focusing tool for the lens type.&lt;br /&gt;
*Choose the correct material profile for the material you are using.&lt;br /&gt;
*Clean the bed of the laser cutter when you are finished.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Foxtale Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
Before working with any of the equipment in the prototype lab you will need to take the [https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1250 general lab quiz] as well as the specific quiz for each machine you are trying to use. The enrollment code for all of the quizzes is MakerHub.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;!--&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::True]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=gallery&lt;br /&gt;
 |imageproperty=Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
}}--&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=File:DELETE_ME_IF_FOUND_THIS_IS_AN_UPLOAD_TEST.h&amp;diff=9005</id>
		<title>File:DELETE ME IF FOUND THIS IS AN UPLOAD TEST.h</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=File:DELETE_ME_IF_FOUND_THIS_IS_AN_UPLOAD_TEST.h&amp;diff=9005"/>
		<updated>2021-06-29T19:00:24Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: delete this if found. this is an upload test.
I would delete it after if I could&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Summary ==&lt;br /&gt;
delete this if found. this is an upload test.&lt;br /&gt;
I would delete it after if I could&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Electronic_keyboard&amp;diff=8890</id>
		<title>Electronic keyboard</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Electronic_keyboard&amp;diff=8890"/>
		<updated>2021-06-14T15:59:28Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is tv=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:final_keyboard_assembley.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Electronic Keyboard Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:final_keyboard_assembley.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=Electronic Keyboard&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show:{{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this TV, we will be creating an electronic keyboard. Each key plays a different note, and it cam be configured by programming.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Bill of Materials ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Keyboard PCB &lt;br /&gt;
* Keyboard parts kit&lt;br /&gt;
* printed keyboard caps  &lt;br /&gt;
* Solder&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==CAD== &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;div style= &amp;quot;transform: rotate(90deg);&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
  &amp;lt;p&amp;gt;My paragraph&amp;lt;/p&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/div&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For this TV, the cad has been done for you, as this is more of an exercise in assembly and programming than in design. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is the Schematic used for this build: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:midi_sch.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The processor is an ATmega328, the same processor as is used on the Arduino Uno. There are 8 button inputs, with pulldown resistors on the signal lines, and a speaker amplifier to drive a small speaker. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This schematic was used to create the following PCB: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:midi_pcb.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The cad file is sent to a manufacturer, and they send back a board that looks like this:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:electronic_keyboard_pcb.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Using this board, we will assemble the circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
This build makes heavy use of soldering, so check out the soldering wiki page: [[Soldering_Irons]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==ASSEMBLY==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
parts: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Electronic keyboard parts.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To start off, let's solder the resistors. There are 4 resistor values used on the board; 10,000 ohms (10K), 1,000 ohms (1K), 100 ohms (100), and 560 ohms (560). &lt;br /&gt;
The resistor values are coded by colored stripes on the side of the resistor; the following chart describes this code: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Resistor_color_code.png|300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To solder the resistors, first bend the legs over, and thread the wires through the holes in the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:resistor_through_hole_board.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
on the back, bend them out a little to hold it in place, and then solder the connections. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:resistor_soldered.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Then, clip the leads back to the top of the solder joint&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:resistor_clipped.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Repeat for all resistors. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:populated_resistors.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, let's solder the ceramic capacitors. they are the small 2 leaded yellow parts. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The larger one is a 0.1uF value, and the 2 smaller ones are 18pF. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:resistor_and_cap.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
next, there is 1 electrolytic capacitor to add. The larger one on the right isn't used in this version of the circuit. &lt;br /&gt;
Electrolytic capacitors are polarized, which means that they need to be connected the right direction. Match the side of the part with the stripe with the white side of the circle on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:board_with_electrolytic_.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up, we have the crystal. Inside this part there is a small piece of quartz, which resonates at 16 million times a second. This is used to drive the system clock. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:More_parts_1.jpeg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up, we have the reset button and the volume control resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:More_parts_2.jpg|500px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, the LED get's soldered in.&lt;br /&gt;
LED's are polarity sensitive, so if they are in backwards, they will not work.&lt;br /&gt;
align the flat side of the LED with the flat side of the white circle on the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:LED_alignment.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, we can solder the transistor. This amplifies the signal going to the speaker, because the processor itself can't provide enough power to drive it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Align the flat side with the flat side of the symbol on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:transistor_speaker.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, we solder in the socket for the processor. &lt;br /&gt;
This part has a large number of joints, so make sure it's in right before you start soldering!&lt;br /&gt;
On top, one end has a small notch in it. Align this with the matching symbol on the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:socket_top_side.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On the bottom, fold over 2 opposite corner pins to hold it in place. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:socket_corner_pins.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Making sure it is in all the way, solder these 2 corner pins. &lt;br /&gt;
Double check that the socket is all the way in, and oriented right. If it is, solder the rest of the pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:final_socket.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, we need to mount the programming port. First, solder the header pins in place &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:header_solder_with_angle.jpg|500px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that this part can be tricky to solder straight. The easiest way is to get 1 pin soldered, even if its' crocked. &lt;br /&gt;
Then, hold the pins pressing them into the board, and re-melt that solder joint. '&lt;br /&gt;
Make sure your finger isn't on the 1 pin that you are soldering to, as it will get hot fast. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:finger_holding_header_crocked.jpg|300px]] [[Image:header_straight_soldered.jpg|300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After this, the header should be lined up. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, se need to solder the USB Serial adapter onto the header pins. This board converts the serial protocol that the processor speaks to usb. &lt;br /&gt;
This converter chip is a fine pitch surface mount part, so we have it on a premade board. With practice, it is possible to solder parts this small though!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Just like soldering the header, solder 1 pin in place, align the module, and then solder the rest of the pins. &lt;br /&gt;
Make sure the board isn't at an angle, because we need to leave room for the USB cable to plug in. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:USB_serial_converter.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, we need to attach the speaker. &lt;br /&gt;
Go to the wire cart, and grab 2 lengths of stranded wire, each about 4 inches long. Strip the ends of both using the stripping tool at the soldering station, and then twist the wires together. &lt;br /&gt;
Solder 1 end of the wires to the speaker, and the other ends to the board. It doesn't matter which connection goes to which pad, it works either direction. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:speaker_wiring.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The last thing to solder is a bypass jumper where the large capacitor was. An easy way to do this is to use one of the cut off leads from the resistors. &lt;br /&gt;
Fold it into a U shape, feed the wires through the holes, and solder it in place. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:capacitor_bypas.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now just add the keycaps, and were done with the hardware!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:final_keyboard_assembley.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Software==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the code, we will be using the Arduino IDE. It's on the lab computers, or it's free to download. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the main window, copy this code: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:Tone_arduino2.ino]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
under tools &amp;gt; board, select Arduino uno. Then, connect a usb cable from the board to the computer. under tools, make sure that the &amp;quot;com port&amp;quot; is set to the listing in the drop down; this is the device on the other end of the usb cable. Then, select upload!&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Electronic_keyboard&amp;diff=8889</id>
		<title>Electronic keyboard</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Electronic_keyboard&amp;diff=8889"/>
		<updated>2021-06-14T15:57:14Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is tv=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:final_keyboard_assembley.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Electronic Keyboard Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:final_keyboard_assembley.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=Electronic Keyboard&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show:{{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this TV, we will be creating an electronic keyboard. Each key plays a different note, and it cam be configured by programming.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Bill of Materials ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Keyboard PCB &lt;br /&gt;
* Keyboard parts kit&lt;br /&gt;
* printed keyboard caps  &lt;br /&gt;
* Solder&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==CAD== &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;div style= &amp;quot;transform: rotate(90deg);&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
  &amp;lt;p&amp;gt;My paragraph&amp;lt;/p&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/div&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For this TV, the cad has been done for you, as this is more of an exercise in assembly and programming than in design. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is the Schematic used for this build: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:midi_sch.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The processor is an ATmega328, the same processor as is used on the Arduino Uno. There are 8 button inputs, with pulldown resistors on the signal lines, and a speaker amplifier to drive a small speaker. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This schematic was used to create the following PCB: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:midi_pcb.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The cad file is sent to a manufacturer, and they send back a board that looks like this:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:electronic_keyboard_pcb.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Using this board, we will assemble the circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
This build makes heavy use of soldering, so check out the soldering wiki page: [[Soldering_Irons]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==ASSEMBLY==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
parts: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Electronic keyboard parts.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To start off, let's solder the resistors. There are 4 resistor values used on the board; 10,000 ohms (10K), 1,000 ohms (1K), 100 ohms (100), and 560 ohms (560). &lt;br /&gt;
The resistor values are coded by colored stripes on the side of the resistor; the following chart describes this code: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Resistor_color_code.png|300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To solder the resistors, first bend the legs over, and thread the wires through the holes in the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:resistor_through_hole_board.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
on the back, bend them out a little to hold it in place, and then solder the connections. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:resistor_soldered.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Then, clip the leads back to the top of the solder joint&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:resistor_clipped.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Repeat for all resistors. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:populated_resistors.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, let's solder the ceramic capacitors. they are the small 2 leaded yellow parts. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The larger one is a 0.1uF value, and the 2 smaller ones are 18pF. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:resistor_and_cap.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
next, there is 1 electrolytic capacitor to add. The larger one on the right isn't used in this version of the circuit. &lt;br /&gt;
Electrolytic capacitors are polarized, which means that they need to be connected the right direction. Match the side of the part with the stripe with the white side of the circle on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:board_with_electrolytic_.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up, we have the crystal. Inside this part there is a small piece of quartz, which resonates at 16 million times a second. This is used to drive the system clock. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:More_parts_1.jpeg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up, we have the reset button and the volume control resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:More_parts_2.jpg|500px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, the LED get's soldered in.&lt;br /&gt;
LED's are polarity sensitive, so if they are in backwards, they will not work.&lt;br /&gt;
align the flat side of the LED with the flat side of the white circle on the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:LED_alignment.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, we can solder the transistor. This amplifies the signal going to the speaker, because the processor itself can't provide enough power to drive it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Align the flat side with the flat side of the symbol on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:transistor_speaker.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, we solder in the socket for the processor. &lt;br /&gt;
This part has a large number of joints, so make sure it's in right before you start soldering!&lt;br /&gt;
On top, one end has a small notch in it. Align this with the matching symbol on the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:socket_top_side.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On the bottom, fold over 2 opposite corner pins to hold it in place. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:socket_corner_pins.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Making sure it is in all the way, solder these 2 corner pins. &lt;br /&gt;
Double check that the socket is all the way in, and oriented right. If it is, solder the rest of the pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:final_socket.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, we need to mount the programming port. First, solder the header pins in place &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:header_solder_with_angle.jpg|500px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that this part can be tricky to solder straight. The easiest way is to get 1 pin soldered, even if its' crocked. &lt;br /&gt;
Then, hold the pins pressing them into the board, and re-melt that solder joint. '&lt;br /&gt;
Make sure your finger isn't on the 1 pin that you are soldering to, as it will get hot fast. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:finger_holding_header_crocked.jpg|300px]] [[Image:header_straight_soldered.jpg|300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After this, the header should be lined up. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, se need to solder the USB Serial adapter onto the header pins. This board converts the serial protocol that the processor speaks to usb. &lt;br /&gt;
This converter chip is a fine pitch surface mount part, so we have it on a premade board. With practice, it is possible to solder parts this small though!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Just like soldering the header, solder 1 pin in place, align the module, and then solder the rest of the pins. &lt;br /&gt;
Make sure the board isn't at an angle, because we need to leave room for the USB cable to plug in. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:USB_serial_converter.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, we need to attach the speaker. &lt;br /&gt;
Go to the wire cart, and grab 2 lengths of stranded wire, each about 4 inches long. Strip the ends of both using the stripping tool at the soldering station, and then twist the wires together. &lt;br /&gt;
Solder 1 end of the wires to the speaker, and the other ends to the board. It doesn't matter which connection goes to which pad, it works either direction. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:speaker_wiring.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The last thing to solder is a bypass jumper where the large capacitor was. An easy way to do this is to use one of the cut off leads from the resistors. &lt;br /&gt;
Fold it into a U shape, feed the wires through the holes, and solder it in place. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:capacitor_bypas.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now just add the keycaps, and were done with the hardware!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:final_keyboard_assembley.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Software==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the code, we will be using the Arduino IDE. It's on the lab computers, or it's free to download. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the main window, copy this code: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:Tone_arduino2.ino]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=File:Tone_arduino2.ino&amp;diff=8888</id>
		<title>File:Tone arduino2.ino</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=File:Tone_arduino2.ino&amp;diff=8888"/>
		<updated>2021-06-14T15:56:54Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=File:Tone_arduino.ino&amp;diff=8887</id>
		<title>File:Tone arduino.ino</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=File:Tone_arduino.ino&amp;diff=8887"/>
		<updated>2021-06-14T15:56:16Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: Njonson19 reverted File:Tone arduino.ino to an old version&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=File:Tone_arduino.ino&amp;diff=8886</id>
		<title>File:Tone arduino.ino</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=File:Tone_arduino.ino&amp;diff=8886"/>
		<updated>2021-06-14T15:55:24Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: Njonson19 uploaded a new version of File:Tone arduino.ino&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=File:Tone_arduino.ino&amp;diff=8885</id>
		<title>File:Tone arduino.ino</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=File:Tone_arduino.ino&amp;diff=8885"/>
		<updated>2021-06-14T15:53:13Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: Njonson19 uploaded a new version of File:Tone arduino.ino&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=File:Tone_arduino.ino&amp;diff=8884</id>
		<title>File:Tone arduino.ino</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=File:Tone_arduino.ino&amp;diff=8884"/>
		<updated>2021-06-14T15:51:36Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: Njonson19 uploaded a new version of File:Tone arduino.ino&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=File:Tone_arduino.ino&amp;diff=8883</id>
		<title>File:Tone arduino.ino</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=File:Tone_arduino.ino&amp;diff=8883"/>
		<updated>2021-06-14T15:49:24Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: Njonson19 uploaded a new version of File:Tone arduino.ino&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Electronic_keyboard&amp;diff=8882</id>
		<title>Electronic keyboard</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Electronic_keyboard&amp;diff=8882"/>
		<updated>2021-06-14T15:42:29Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is tv=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:final_keyboard_assembley.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Electronic Keyboard Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:final_keyboard_assembley.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=Electronic Keyboard&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show:{{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this TV, we will be creating an electronic keyboard. Each key plays a different note, and it cam be configured by programming.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Bill of Materials ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Keyboard PCB &lt;br /&gt;
* Keyboard parts kit&lt;br /&gt;
* printed keyboard caps  &lt;br /&gt;
* Solder&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==CAD== &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;div style= &amp;quot;transform: rotate(90deg);&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
  &amp;lt;p&amp;gt;My paragraph&amp;lt;/p&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/div&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For this TV, the cad has been done for you, as this is more of an exercise in assembly and programming than in design. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is the Schematic used for this build: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:midi_sch.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The processor is an ATmega328, the same processor as is used on the Arduino Uno. There are 8 button inputs, with pulldown resistors on the signal lines, and a speaker amplifier to drive a small speaker. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This schematic was used to create the following PCB: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:midi_pcb.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The cad file is sent to a manufacturer, and they send back a board that looks like this:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:electronic_keyboard_pcb.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Using this board, we will assemble the circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
This build makes heavy use of soldering, so check out the soldering wiki page: [[Soldering_Irons]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==ASSEMBLY==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
parts: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Electronic keyboard parts.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To start off, let's solder the resistors. There are 4 resistor values used on the board; 10,000 ohms (10K), 1,000 ohms (1K), 100 ohms (100), and 560 ohms (560). &lt;br /&gt;
The resistor values are coded by colored stripes on the side of the resistor; the following chart describes this code: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Resistor_color_code.png|300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To solder the resistors, first bend the legs over, and thread the wires through the holes in the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:resistor_through_hole_board.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
on the back, bend them out a little to hold it in place, and then solder the connections. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:resistor_soldered.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Then, clip the leads back to the top of the solder joint&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:resistor_clipped.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Repeat for all resistors. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:populated_resistors.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, let's solder the ceramic capacitors. they are the small 2 leaded yellow parts. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The larger one is a 0.1uF value, and the 2 smaller ones are 18pF. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:resistor_and_cap.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
next, there is 1 electrolytic capacitor to add. The larger one on the right isn't used in this version of the circuit. &lt;br /&gt;
Electrolytic capacitors are polarized, which means that they need to be connected the right direction. Match the side of the part with the stripe with the white side of the circle on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:board_with_electrolytic_.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up, we have the crystal. Inside this part there is a small piece of quartz, which resonates at 16 million times a second. This is used to drive the system clock. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:More_parts_1.jpeg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up, we have the reset button and the volume control resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:More_parts_2.jpg|500px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, the LED get's soldered in.&lt;br /&gt;
LED's are polarity sensitive, so if they are in backwards, they will not work.&lt;br /&gt;
align the flat side of the LED with the flat side of the white circle on the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:LED_alignment.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, we can solder the transistor. This amplifies the signal going to the speaker, because the processor itself can't provide enough power to drive it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Align the flat side with the flat side of the symbol on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:transistor_speaker.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, we solder in the socket for the processor. &lt;br /&gt;
This part has a large number of joints, so make sure it's in right before you start soldering!&lt;br /&gt;
On top, one end has a small notch in it. Align this with the matching symbol on the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:socket_top_side.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On the bottom, fold over 2 opposite corner pins to hold it in place. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:socket_corner_pins.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Making sure it is in all the way, solder these 2 corner pins. &lt;br /&gt;
Double check that the socket is all the way in, and oriented right. If it is, solder the rest of the pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:final_socket.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, we need to mount the programming port. First, solder the header pins in place &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:header_solder_with_angle.jpg|500px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that this part can be tricky to solder straight. The easiest way is to get 1 pin soldered, even if its' crocked. &lt;br /&gt;
Then, hold the pins pressing them into the board, and re-melt that solder joint. '&lt;br /&gt;
Make sure your finger isn't on the 1 pin that you are soldering to, as it will get hot fast. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:finger_holding_header_crocked.jpg|300px]] [[Image:header_straight_soldered.jpg|300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After this, the header should be lined up. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, se need to solder the USB Serial adapter onto the header pins. This board converts the serial protocol that the processor speaks to usb. &lt;br /&gt;
This converter chip is a fine pitch surface mount part, so we have it on a premade board. With practice, it is possible to solder parts this small though!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Just like soldering the header, solder 1 pin in place, align the module, and then solder the rest of the pins. &lt;br /&gt;
Make sure the board isn't at an angle, because we need to leave room for the USB cable to plug in. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:USB_serial_converter.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, we need to attach the speaker. &lt;br /&gt;
Go to the wire cart, and grab 2 lengths of stranded wire, each about 4 inches long. Strip the ends of both using the stripping tool at the soldering station, and then twist the wires together. &lt;br /&gt;
Solder 1 end of the wires to the speaker, and the other ends to the board. It doesn't matter which connection goes to which pad, it works either direction. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:speaker_wiring.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The last thing to solder is a bypass jumper where the large capacitor was. An easy way to do this is to use one of the cut off leads from the resistors. &lt;br /&gt;
Fold it into a U shape, feed the wires through the holes, and solder it in place. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:capacitor_bypas.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now just add the keycaps, and were done with the hardware!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:final_keyboard_assembley.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Software==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the code, we will be using the Arduino IDE. It's on the lab computers, or it's free to download. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the main window, copy this code: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:Tone_arduino.ino]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Electronic_keyboard&amp;diff=8881</id>
		<title>Electronic keyboard</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Electronic_keyboard&amp;diff=8881"/>
		<updated>2021-06-14T15:38:31Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is tv=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:final_keyboard_assembley.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Electronic Keyboard Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:final_keyboard_assembley.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=Electronic Keyboard&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show:{{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this TV, we will be creating an electronic keyboard. Each key plays a different note, and it cam be configured by programming.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Bill of Materials ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Keyboard PCB &lt;br /&gt;
* Keyboard parts kit&lt;br /&gt;
* printed keyboard caps  &lt;br /&gt;
* Solder&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==CAD== &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;div style= &amp;quot;transform: rotate(90deg);&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
  &amp;lt;p&amp;gt;My paragraph&amp;lt;/p&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/div&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For this TV, the cad has been done for you, as this is more of an exercise in assembly and programming than in design. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is the Schematic used for this build: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:midi_sch.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The processor is an ATmega328, the same processor as is used on the Arduino Uno. There are 8 button inputs, with pulldown resistors on the signal lines, and a speaker amplifier to drive a small speaker. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This schematic was used to create the following PCB: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:midi_pcb.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The cad file is sent to a manufacturer, and they send back a board that looks like this:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:electronic_keyboard_pcb.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Using this board, we will assemble the circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
This build makes heavy use of soldering, so check out the soldering wiki page: [[Soldering_Irons]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==ASSEMBLY==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
parts: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Electronic keyboard parts.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To start off, let's solder the resistors. There are 4 resistor values used on the board; 10,000 ohms (10K), 1,000 ohms (1K), 100 ohms (100), and 560 ohms (560). &lt;br /&gt;
The resistor values are coded by colored stripes on the side of the resistor; the following chart describes this code: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Resistor_color_code.png|300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To solder the resistors, first bend the legs over, and thread the wires through the holes in the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:resistor_through_hole_board.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
on the back, bend them out a little to hold it in place, and then solder the connections. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:resistor_soldered.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Then, clip the leads back to the top of the solder joint&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:resistor_clipped.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Repeat for all resistors. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:populated_resistors.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, let's solder the ceramic capacitors. they are the small 2 leaded yellow parts. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The larger one is a 0.1uF value, and the 2 smaller ones are 18pF. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:resistor_and_cap.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
next, there is 1 electrolytic capacitor to add. The larger one on the right isn't used in this version of the circuit. &lt;br /&gt;
Electrolytic capacitors are polarized, which means that they need to be connected the right direction. Match the side of the part with the stripe with the white side of the circle on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:board_with_electrolytic_.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up, we have the crystal. Inside this part there is a small piece of quartz, which resonates at 16 million times a second. This is used to drive the system clock. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:More_parts_1.jpeg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up, we have the reset button and the volume control resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:More_parts_2.jpg|500px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, the LED get's soldered in.&lt;br /&gt;
LED's are polarity sensitive, so if they are in backwards, they will not work.&lt;br /&gt;
align the flat side of the LED with the flat side of the white circle on the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:LED_alignment.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, we can solder the transistor. This amplifies the signal going to the speaker, because the processor itself can't provide enough power to drive it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Align the flat side with the flat side of the symbol on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:transistor_speaker.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, we solder in the socket for the processor. &lt;br /&gt;
This part has a large number of joints, so make sure it's in right before you start soldering!&lt;br /&gt;
On top, one end has a small notch in it. Align this with the matching symbol on the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:socket_top_side.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On the bottom, fold over 2 opposite corner pins to hold it in place. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:socket_corner_pins.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Making sure it is in all the way, solder these 2 corner pins. &lt;br /&gt;
Double check that the socket is all the way in, and oriented right. If it is, solder the rest of the pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:final_socket.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, we need to mount the programming port. First, solder the header pins in place &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:header_solder_with_angle.jpg|500px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that this part can be tricky to solder straight. The easiest way is to get 1 pin soldered, even if its' crocked. &lt;br /&gt;
Then, hold the pins pressing them into the board, and re-melt that solder joint. '&lt;br /&gt;
Make sure your finger isn't on the 1 pin that you are soldering to, as it will get hot fast. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:finger_holding_header_crocked.jpg|300px]] [[Image:header_straight_soldered.jpg|300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After this, the header should be lined up. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, se need to solder the USB Serial adapter onto the header pins. This board converts the serial protocol that the processor speaks to usb. &lt;br /&gt;
This converter chip is a fine pitch surface mount part, so we have it on a premade board. With practice, it is possible to solder parts this small though!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Just like soldering the header, solder 1 pin in place, align the module, and then solder the rest of the pins. &lt;br /&gt;
Make sure the board isn't at an angle, because we need to leave room for the USB cable to plug in. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:USB_serial_converter.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, we need to attach the speaker. &lt;br /&gt;
Go to the wire cart, and grab 2 lengths of stranded wire, each about 4 inches long. Strip the ends of both using the stripping tool at the soldering station, and then twist the wires together. &lt;br /&gt;
Solder 1 end of the wires to the speaker, and the other ends to the board. It doesn't matter which connection goes to which pad, it works either direction. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:speaker_wiring.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The last thing to solder is a bypass jumper where the large capacitor was. An easy way to do this is to use one of the cut off leads from the resistors. &lt;br /&gt;
Fold it into a U shape, feed the wires through the holes, and solder it in place. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:capacitor_bypas.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now just add the keycaps, and were done with the hardware!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:final_keyboard_assembley.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Software==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the code, we will be using the Arduino IDE. It's on the lab computers, or it's free to download. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the main window, copy this code: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:Tone_arduino.ino]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
then, create a second tab, and name it pitches.h&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
in it, copy this: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:pitches.h]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Quena&amp;diff=8880</id>
		<title>Quena</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Quena&amp;diff=8880"/>
		<updated>2021-06-14T15:36:17Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is tv=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:Quena2_20.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=quena Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Quena2_20.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=quena&lt;br /&gt;
 |Uses software=Solidworks&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show:{{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this TV, we will be creating a quena.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Bill of Materials ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 1/2&amp;quot; PVC&lt;br /&gt;
* 3D printed parts&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==CAD==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 1: Open SolidWorks 2020, and select a new part. Don't forget to save your file frequently as you go. In the bottom-right corner of your Solidworks window, change the units from IPS to MMGS (milimeter, gram, second)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 2: Select the Front Plane in the design tree (the left column on your screen) to begin your sketch. Click on the Sketch tab above and click Sketch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_1.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 3: Draw out the shape below. Start the lower left corner on the origin (the red arrows), and make sure the lines snap to horizontal and vertical. &lt;br /&gt;
Using the smart dimension tool, which you can get either on the menu at top, or by holding your right mouse button and dragging up. &lt;br /&gt;
If done correctly, the entire sketch should be black, indicating that it is fully defined.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_2.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 4: In the top left corner, click Exit Sketch (your sketch should turn light grey). Click on the Features tab and select the Revolved Boss/Base option. Click on the &amp;quot;axis of revolution&amp;quot; box, and select the bottom line.&lt;br /&gt;
The preview should match the picture below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Click the green checkmark in the left column if everything looks good. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_3.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 5: Select the Front Plane in the design tree (the left column on your screen) to begin a new sketch. Click on the Sketch tab above and click Sketch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_4.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 6: On the new sketch, select the ‘Ellipse’ option to draw the same shape as the screenshot. Place the corner of the eclipse on the corner of the object, and add dimensions to constrain it. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_4.5.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 7: Click on the Features tab and select the ‘Extruded Cut’ option. Select ‘Through All- Both’. Click the green checkmark in the left column if everything looks good like the screenshot.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_5.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 8: Right Click the ‘Blue Circle’ (see screenshot) on the object and select ‘normal to’ and again select  ‘new sketch’ option after.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 8: Select the round end face, and create a new sketch. To make that sketch become parallel to the screen, press space, and click on the appropriate face of the cube.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_6.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 9: In the New Sketch draw a circle, with it's center on the origin. Add a dimension, and set it's value to 12.6mm &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_7.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 10: Nest, use the line tool to draw a rectangle as shown in the picture. Make sure the ends of the top line are on the circle, and that the line is horizontal. &lt;br /&gt;
Draw the others to form a rectangle. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_8.png|400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_9.png|400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, select the &amp;quot;trim entities&amp;quot; tool on the top bar. Select &amp;quot;trim to closest&amp;quot;, and make sure &amp;quot;keep trimmed entities as construction geometry&amp;quot; is checked. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_10.png|400px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Trim the 2 inside lines, so that the solid lines form 1 loop. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_11.png|400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 12: Click on the Features tab and select the ‘Extruded Cut’ option. under &amp;quot;direction 1&amp;quot;, select &amp;quot;up to surface&amp;quot; for the depth of the cut. Select the pink face as the surface. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_12.png|400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 13: Next, create a new sketch on that pink face. on this face, draw 2 lines vertically down from the sides of the notch, and then connect them with 2 arcs. The arc tool is circled in red in the upper left corner. &lt;br /&gt;
Dimension the arcs as shown. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_13.png|400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 14: Next, use the trim tool from earlier to reduce the sketch down to a single loop. &lt;br /&gt;
For the upper parts of the 2 vertical lines, trim them to construction geometry. This preserves the relation between the lines and the notch. &lt;br /&gt;
For the lower part of the lines, uncheck the &amp;quot;keep trimmed entities as construction geometry&amp;quot; box, and it will delete the overhanging part of the line. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_14.png|400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 15: Now, extrude cut with this sketch. the cut should go all the way through &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_15.png|400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
And you're done!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==3D printing==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For instructions on using the 3D printers, see the prusa page [[Prusa_3D_Printer]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The part prints best if printed upright, and with supports under the overhang. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_16.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Body Cad==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 1: Open SolidWorks 2020, and select a new part. Don't forget to save your file frequently as you go. In the bottom-right corner of your Solidworks window, change the units to CGS (Centimeter, gram, second). Select the Right Plane in the design tree (the left column on your screen) to begin your sketch. Click on the Sketch tab above and click Sketch. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_1.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 2: Make a horizontal line starting from the origin. Then use the smart dimension tool to make it 40cm long. Click the green checkmark in the left column if everything looks good like the screenshot.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_2.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 3:  Select the Front Plane in the design tree (the left column on your screen) to begin your new sketch. Click on the Sketch tab above and click Sketch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_3.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 4:  Select the ‘Circle’ option to draw a circle starting at the origin. Using the ‘smart dimension’ tool make the radius of the circle the same as the screenshot below. Click the green checkmark in the left column if everything looks good like the screenshot.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_4.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 5:  Click on the Features tab and select the ‘Sweep Boss/Base’ option. Under ‘Profile and Path’ select ‘sketch profile’ and for the end circle (blue color) select the sketch of the circle (sketch2). For the line (pink color) select the straight line sketch (sketch 1).  In addition, add the ‘thin feature’. Select one direction and make the thickness of it be 0.29 cm as shown in the screenshot.  Click the green checkmark in the left column if everything looks good like the screenshot.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_5.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 6:  Select the Right Plane in the design tree (the left column on your screen) to begin your new sketch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_6.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 7:  Start drawing circles with the ‘circle’ option. Little advice, make sure the center of your circles are aligned with the origin (you will see blue dotted lines). Create 6 circles in the same sketch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_7.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 8:  Using the ‘Smart Dimension’ option make the diameters of the circles the same as shown in the screenshot below. In addition, make the distances starting from the origin point to each center of a circle identical as the screenshot. Click the green checkmark in the left column if everything looks good like the picture below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_8.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 9: Click on the Features tab and select the ‘Extruded Cut’ option. Select ‘Up to next’ under direction1’. If the grey arrow is pointing the opposite side, you can always switch direction by clicking the icon next to the ‘Up to next’. Click the green checkmark in the left column if everything looks good like the screenshot.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_9.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 10: Select the Right Plane in the design tree (the left column on your screen) to start your new sketch. Click on the Sketch tab above and click Sketch. We will be using the ‘circle’ option.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_10.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 11: Draw a circle making sure the center of your circles are aligned with the origin (you will see blue dotted lines). See image below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_11.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 12: Using the ‘smart dimension’ option, make the distance starting from the origin point to the center of the circle identical as the screenshot. Also, make the diameter of the circle the same as shown below.  Click the green checkmark in the left column if everything looks good.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_12.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 12: Click on the Features tab and select the ‘Extruded Cut’ option. Select ‘Up to next’ under direction1’. If the grey arrow is pointing the opposite side, you can always switch direction by clicking the icon next to the ‘Up to next’. Click the green checkmark in the left column if everything looks good like the screenshot.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_13.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 14: Select the Front Plane in the design tree (the left column on your screen) to start your new sketch. Click on the Sketch tab above and click Sketch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_14.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 14: Make a vertical centerline using the ‘centerline’ option. This can be found by clicking on the  arrow next to the line icon. Then use the ‘line’ option to draw the same line as the screenshot (outer circle). Click the green checkmark in the left column if everything looks good like the screenshot.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_15.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 16: Having the last Sketch selected, go under ‘Features’ and select ‘Reference Geometry’. Once you click on the little triangle to see sub-options, and select ‘plane’. You just created a plane!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_16.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 17: At this point, we need to make the plane fully defined. First, under ‘first reference’ select the vertical line you just created in the last step. Second, under ‘second reference’ select the area between the 2 circles (See screenshot - purple area). Now, right under the coincident option, you will see an angle symbol. In that box type either “26 deg” or “154 deg”. This will depend on which side the plane is leaning. Ideally, we want to have a small angle close to the top of the quena which is where the 6 holes are at! Click the green checkmark in the left column if everything looks good like the screenshot.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_17.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_17.5.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 18: On that plane you just created select ‘normal to’ and click on the Sketch tab above and click Sketch to create a new one. On the new sketch, select the ‘Ellipse’ option to draw the same shape as the screenshot. Make sure the oval has the same dimension given in the screenshot.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_18.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 19: Click on the Features tab and select the ‘Extruded Cut’ option. Select ‘All Through’ under direction1’. If the grey arrow is pointing the opposite side, you can always switch direction by clicking the icon next to the ‘Up to next’. Click the green checkmark in the left column if everything looks good like the screenshot.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_19.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 20: You did it! Save your work! You should now have something that looks like the screenshot below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_20.png|500px]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Electronic_keyboard&amp;diff=8874</id>
		<title>Electronic keyboard</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Electronic_keyboard&amp;diff=8874"/>
		<updated>2021-06-12T00:29:53Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is tv=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:final_keyboard_assembley.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Electronic Keyboard Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:final_keyboard_assembley.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=Electronic Keyboard&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show:{{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this TV, we will be creating an electronic keyboard. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Bill of Materials ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Keyboard PCB &lt;br /&gt;
* Keyboard parts kit&lt;br /&gt;
* printed keyboard caps  &lt;br /&gt;
* Solder&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==CAD== &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;div style= &amp;quot;transform: rotate(90deg);&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
  &amp;lt;p&amp;gt;My paragraph&amp;lt;/p&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/div&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For this TV, the cad has been done for you, as this is more of an exercise in assembly and programming than in design. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is the Schematic used for this build: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:midi_sch.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The processor is an ATmega328, the same processor as is used on the Arduino Uno. There are 8 button inputs, with pulldown resistors on the signal lines, and a speaker amplifier to drive a small speaker. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This schematic was used to create the following PCB: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:midi_pcb.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The cad file is sent to a manufacturer, and they send back a board that looks like this:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:electronic_keyboard_pcb.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Using this board, we will assemble the circuit.&lt;br /&gt;
This build makes heavy use of soldering, so check out the soldering wiki page: [[Soldering_Irons]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==ASSEMBLY==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
parts: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Electronic keyboard parts.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To start off, let's solder the resistors. There are 4 resistor values used on the board; 10,000 ohms (10K), 1,000 ohms (1K), 100 ohms (100), and 560 ohms (560). &lt;br /&gt;
The resistor values are coded by colored stripes on the side of the resistor; the following chart describes this code: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Resistor_color_code.png|300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To solder the resistors, first bend the legs over, and thread the wires through the holes in the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:resistor_through_hole_board.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
on the back, bend them out a little to hold it in place, and then solder the connections. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:resistor_soldered.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Then, clip the leads back to the top of the solder joint&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:resistor_clipped.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Repeat for all resistors. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:populated_resistors.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, let's solder the ceramic capacitors. they are the small 2 leaded yellow parts. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The larger one is a 0.1uF value, and the 2 smaller ones are 18pF. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:resistor_and_cap.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
next, there is 1 electrolytic capacitor to add. The larger one on the right isn't used in this version of the circuit. &lt;br /&gt;
Electrolytic capacitors are polarized, which means that they need to be connected the right direction. Match the side of the part with the stripe with the white side of the circle on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:board_with_electrolytic_.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up, we have the crystal. Inside this part there is a small piece of quartz, which resonates at 16 million times a second. This is used to drive the system clock. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:More_parts_1.jpeg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up, we have the reset button and the volume control resistor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:More_parts_2.jpg|500px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, the LED get's soldered in.&lt;br /&gt;
LED's are polarity sensitive, so if they are in backwards, they will not work.&lt;br /&gt;
align the flat side of the LED with the flat side of the white circle on the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:LED_alignment.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, we can solder the transistor. This amplifies the signal going to the speaker, because the processor itself can't provide enough power to drive it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Align the flat side with the flat side of the symbol on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:transistor_speaker.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, we solder in the socket for the processor. &lt;br /&gt;
This part has a large number of joints, so make sure it's in right before you start soldering!&lt;br /&gt;
On top, one end has a small notch in it. Align this with the matching symbol on the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:socket_top_side.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On the bottom, fold over 2 opposite corner pins to hold it in place. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:socket_corner_pins.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Making sure it is in all the way, solder these 2 corner pins. &lt;br /&gt;
Double check that the socket is all the way in, and oriented right. If it is, solder the rest of the pins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:final_socket.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, we need to mount the programming port. First, solder the header pins in place &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:header_solder_with_angle.jpg|500px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that this part can be tricky to solder straight. The easiest way is to get 1 pin soldered, even if its' crocked. &lt;br /&gt;
Then, hold the pins pressing them into the board, and re-melt that solder joint. '&lt;br /&gt;
Make sure your finger isn't on the 1 pin that you are soldering to, as it will get hot fast. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:finger_holding_header_crocked.jpg|300px]] [[Image:header_straight_soldered.jpg|300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After this, the header should be lined up. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, se need to solder the USB Serial adapter onto the header pins. This board converts the serial protocol that the processor speaks to usb. &lt;br /&gt;
This converter chip is a fine pitch surface mount part, so we have it on a premade board. With practice, it is possible to solder parts this small though!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Just like soldering the header, solder 1 pin in place, align the module, and then solder the rest of the pins. &lt;br /&gt;
Make sure the board isn't at an angle, because we need to leave room for the USB cable to plug in. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:USB_serial_converter.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, we need to attach the speaker. &lt;br /&gt;
Go to the wire cart, and grab 2 lengths of stranded wire, each about 4 inches long. Strip the ends of both using the stripping tool at the soldering station, and then twist the wires together. &lt;br /&gt;
Solder 1 end of the wires to the speaker, and the other ends to the board. It doesn't matter which connection goes to which pad, it works either direction. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:speaker_wiring.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The last thing to solder is a bypass jumper where the large capacitor was. An easy way to do this is to use one of the cut off leads from the resistors. &lt;br /&gt;
Fold it into a U shape, feed the wires through the holes, and solder it in place. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:capacitor_bypas.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now just add the keycaps, and were done with the hardware!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:final_keyboard_assembley.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Software==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the code, we will be using the Arduino IDE. It's on the lab computers, or it's free to download. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the main window, copy this code: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:Tone_arduino.ino]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
then, create a second tab, and name it pitches.h&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
in it, copy this: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:pitches.h]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Quena&amp;diff=8873</id>
		<title>Quena</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Quena&amp;diff=8873"/>
		<updated>2021-06-12T00:29:16Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is tv=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:mood_lamp_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Mood Lamp Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:mood_lamp_image.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=Mood Lamp&lt;br /&gt;
 |Uses equipment=Table Saw&lt;br /&gt;
 |Uses equipment=Planer&lt;br /&gt;
 |Uses software=Solidworks&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show:{{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this TV, we will be creating a quena.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Bill of Materials ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 1/2&amp;quot; PVC&lt;br /&gt;
* 3D printed parts&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==CAD==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 1: Open SolidWorks 2020, and select a new part. Don't forget to save your file frequently as you go. In the bottom-right corner of your Solidworks window, change the units from IPS to MMGS (milimeter, gram, second)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 2: Select the Front Plane in the design tree (the left column on your screen) to begin your sketch. Click on the Sketch tab above and click Sketch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_1.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 3: Draw out the shape below. Start the lower left corner on the origin (the red arrows), and make sure the lines snap to horizontal and vertical. &lt;br /&gt;
Using the smart dimension tool, which you can get either on the menu at top, or by holding your right mouse button and dragging up. &lt;br /&gt;
If done correctly, the entire sketch should be black, indicating that it is fully defined.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_2.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 4: In the top left corner, click Exit Sketch (your sketch should turn light grey). Click on the Features tab and select the Revolved Boss/Base option. Click on the &amp;quot;axis of revolution&amp;quot; box, and select the bottom line.&lt;br /&gt;
The preview should match the picture below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Click the green checkmark in the left column if everything looks good. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_3.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 5: Select the Front Plane in the design tree (the left column on your screen) to begin a new sketch. Click on the Sketch tab above and click Sketch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_4.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 6: On the new sketch, select the ‘Ellipse’ option to draw the same shape as the screenshot. Place the corner of the eclipse on the corner of the object, and add dimensions to constrain it. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_4.5.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 7: Click on the Features tab and select the ‘Extruded Cut’ option. Select ‘Through All- Both’. Click the green checkmark in the left column if everything looks good like the screenshot.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_5.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 8: Right Click the ‘Blue Circle’ (see screenshot) on the object and select ‘normal to’ and again select  ‘new sketch’ option after.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 8: Select the round end face, and create a new sketch. To make that sketch become parallel to the screen, press space, and click on the appropriate face of the cube.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_6.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 9: In the New Sketch draw a circle, with it's center on the origin. Add a dimension, and set it's value to 12.6mm &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_7.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 10: Nest, use the line tool to draw a rectangle as shown in the picture. Make sure the ends of the top line are on the circle, and that the line is horizontal. &lt;br /&gt;
Draw the others to form a rectangle. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_8.png|400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_9.png|400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, select the &amp;quot;trim entities&amp;quot; tool on the top bar. Select &amp;quot;trim to closest&amp;quot;, and make sure &amp;quot;keep trimmed entities as construction geometry&amp;quot; is checked. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_10.png|400px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Trim the 2 inside lines, so that the solid lines form 1 loop. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_11.png|400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 12: Click on the Features tab and select the ‘Extruded Cut’ option. under &amp;quot;direction 1&amp;quot;, select &amp;quot;up to surface&amp;quot; for the depth of the cut. Select the pink face as the surface. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_12.png|400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 13: Next, create a new sketch on that pink face. on this face, draw 2 lines vertically down from the sides of the notch, and then connect them with 2 arcs. The arc tool is circled in red in the upper left corner. &lt;br /&gt;
Dimension the arcs as shown. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_13.png|400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 14: Next, use the trim tool from earlier to reduce the sketch down to a single loop. &lt;br /&gt;
For the upper parts of the 2 vertical lines, trim them to construction geometry. This preserves the relation between the lines and the notch. &lt;br /&gt;
For the lower part of the lines, uncheck the &amp;quot;keep trimmed entities as construction geometry&amp;quot; box, and it will delete the overhanging part of the line. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_14.png|400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 15: Now, extrude cut with this sketch. the cut should go all the way through &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_15.png|400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
And you're done!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==3D printing==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For instructions on using the 3D printers, see the prusa page [[Prusa_3D_Printer]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The part prints best if printed upright, and with supports under the overhang. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena_16.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Body Cad==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 1: Open SolidWorks 2020, and select a new part. Don't forget to save your file frequently as you go. In the bottom-right corner of your Solidworks window, change the units to CGS (Centimeter, gram, second). Select the Right Plane in the design tree (the left column on your screen) to begin your sketch. Click on the Sketch tab above and click Sketch. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_1.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 2: Make a horizontal line starting from the origin. Then use the smart dimension tool to make it 40cm long. Click the green checkmark in the left column if everything looks good like the screenshot.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_2.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 3:  Select the Front Plane in the design tree (the left column on your screen) to begin your new sketch. Click on the Sketch tab above and click Sketch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_3.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 4:  Select the ‘Circle’ option to draw a circle starting at the origin. Using the ‘smart dimension’ tool make the radius of the circle the same as the screenshot below. Click the green checkmark in the left column if everything looks good like the screenshot.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_4.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 5:  Click on the Features tab and select the ‘Sweep Boss/Base’ option. Under ‘Profile and Path’ select ‘sketch profile’ and for the end circle (blue color) select the sketch of the circle (sketch2). For the line (pink color) select the straight line sketch (sketch 1).  In addition, add the ‘thin feature’. Select one direction and make the thickness of it be 0.29 cm as shown in the screenshot.  Click the green checkmark in the left column if everything looks good like the screenshot.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_5.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 6:  Select the Right Plane in the design tree (the left column on your screen) to begin your new sketch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_6.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 7:  Start drawing circles with the ‘circle’ option. Little advice, make sure the center of your circles are aligned with the origin (you will see blue dotted lines). Create 6 circles in the same sketch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_7.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 8:  Using the ‘Smart Dimension’ option make the diameters of the circles the same as shown in the screenshot below. In addition, make the distances starting from the origin point to each center of a circle identical as the screenshot. Click the green checkmark in the left column if everything looks good like the picture below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_8.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 9: Click on the Features tab and select the ‘Extruded Cut’ option. Select ‘Up to next’ under direction1’. If the grey arrow is pointing the opposite side, you can always switch direction by clicking the icon next to the ‘Up to next’. Click the green checkmark in the left column if everything looks good like the screenshot.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_9.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 10: Select the Right Plane in the design tree (the left column on your screen) to start your new sketch. Click on the Sketch tab above and click Sketch. We will be using the ‘circle’ option.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_10.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 11: Draw a circle making sure the center of your circles are aligned with the origin (you will see blue dotted lines). See image below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_11.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 12: Using the ‘smart dimension’ option, make the distance starting from the origin point to the center of the circle identical as the screenshot. Also, make the diameter of the circle the same as shown below.  Click the green checkmark in the left column if everything looks good.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_12.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 12: Click on the Features tab and select the ‘Extruded Cut’ option. Select ‘Up to next’ under direction1’. If the grey arrow is pointing the opposite side, you can always switch direction by clicking the icon next to the ‘Up to next’. Click the green checkmark in the left column if everything looks good like the screenshot.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_13.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 14: Select the Front Plane in the design tree (the left column on your screen) to start your new sketch. Click on the Sketch tab above and click Sketch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_14.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 14: Make a vertical centerline using the ‘centerline’ option. This can be found by clicking on the  arrow next to the line icon. Then use the ‘line’ option to draw the same line as the screenshot (outer circle). Click the green checkmark in the left column if everything looks good like the screenshot.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_15.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 16: Having the last Sketch selected, go under ‘Features’ and select ‘Reference Geometry’. Once you click on the little triangle to see sub-options, and select ‘plane’. You just created a plane!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_16.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 17: At this point, we need to make the plane fully defined. First, under ‘first reference’ select the vertical line you just created in the last step. Second, under ‘second reference’ select the area between the 2 circles (See screenshot - purple area). Now, right under the coincident option, you will see an angle symbol. In that box type either “26 deg” or “154 deg”. This will depend on which side the plane is leaning. Ideally, we want to have a small angle close to the top of the quena which is where the 6 holes are at! Click the green checkmark in the left column if everything looks good like the screenshot.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_17.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_17.5.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 18: On that plane you just created select ‘normal to’ and click on the Sketch tab above and click Sketch to create a new one. On the new sketch, select the ‘Ellipse’ option to draw the same shape as the screenshot. Make sure the oval has the same dimension given in the screenshot.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_18.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 19: Click on the Features tab and select the ‘Extruded Cut’ option. Select ‘All Through’ under direction1’. If the grey arrow is pointing the opposite side, you can always switch direction by clicking the icon next to the ‘Up to next’. Click the green checkmark in the left column if everything looks good like the screenshot.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_19.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Step 20: You did it! Save your work! You should now have something that looks like the screenshot below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Quena2_20.png|500px]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Slide_Whistle&amp;diff=8864</id>
		<title>Slide Whistle</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Slide_Whistle&amp;diff=8864"/>
		<updated>2021-06-11T23:08:41Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Njonson19: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is tv=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:Slide_cad_27.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Slide Whistle Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Slide_cad_27.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=Slide Whistle&lt;br /&gt;
 |Uses software=Solidworks&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
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[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show:{{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In this TV, we will be creating a slide whistle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Bill of Materials ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* ½” PVC &lt;br /&gt;
* ½” PVC cap with hole in end &lt;br /&gt;
* ½” dowel  &lt;br /&gt;
* ½” delrin plug &lt;br /&gt;
* Welding rod &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==CAD== &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The body of the whistle is made from ½ inch schedule 40 PVC pipe. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To model this, first create a sketch on the front plane. In this sketch, draw 2 circles. The outer diameter of the pipe is 0.85”, and the inner diameter is 0.62”. &lt;br /&gt;
Make sure the circles are centered on the origin. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Slide_cad_1.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Then, extrude the profile to create the pipe. A length of 10.5 inches works well.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_2.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up, we need to create the notch that allows the whistle to produce sound. &lt;br /&gt;
Start a new sketch on the right plane.  In order to see the plane face on, hit space, and click the side of the cube that is parallel to the sketch. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On this plane, first draw a line from the origin back into the pipe. Right click on it and set it to be construction geometry. This means that Solidworks will ignore the line when making the cut; but we can still measure off of it.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_3.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, draw a triangle using the line tool. The top line should be horizontal, and the vertical line should be, well, vertical. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lock these lines to being horizontal and vertical by right clicking on them, and clicking either make horizontal or make vertical. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_4.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, insert dimensions to define the location and size of the cut. It should be 1.25” from the beginning of the pipe, and 0.2” from the center line. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_5.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once all dimensions are inserted, the triangle’s lines should all be black. This indicates that the sketch is fully defined. We can now use the extrude cut tool to turn the sketch into the notch. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the direction box, select the ```Through All – Both ``` option. This cuts from both sides of the sketch.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_6.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
And there we go! Lastly, let’s set the material of the object to PVC. Do this by right clicking on the body in the feature tree and clicking on “material” &amp;gt; “edit material”. In the window that opens, click on the “plastics” folder. In this folder, find “PVC Rigid”. Click on it, and then click apply, then close. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_7.png|250px]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_8.png|200px]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_9.png|450px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The pipe should now be white, just like real PVC!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_10.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, we need to model the wooden plug that sits inside the end of the whistle. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Click on sketch to create a new sketch and place it on the end of the whistle. Draw a circle just a little smaller than the inner diameter of the PVC, and set it’s diameter to 0.6”. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_11.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To create the flat top of the peg, draw a line across the top of the circle. Place both the beginning and the end of the line on the circle. Next set the line to horizontal, as shown above. Add a dimension from the origin to the line and set it to 0.25”. All lines in the sketch should be black.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_12.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, remove the curve above the line using the “trim entities” tool. Click the tool, and click the top of the circle. That part of the circle should now be gone, and the sketch should be a single loop of lines. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_13.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_14.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, we can extrude the sketch to form the plug. Click on extrude, and set the length to 1.25”. &lt;br /&gt;
As this is a separate part, uncheck “merge result” in the extrude options. This causes the extrude to create a separate body, which we can set to be a different material. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_15.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We have the plug! &lt;br /&gt;
At this point, the plug is the default grey. Let’s fix that. &lt;br /&gt;
Under the bodies folder in the feature tree, there should now be 2 bodies. The second one is our plug. &lt;br /&gt;
Using the same process as before, set it’s material to be wood. There is a woods folder just like a plastics folder. Open it and chose pine. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_16.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now we have a wooden plug! &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, let’s model the cap on the end. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Create a sketch on the right plane, and go parallel to it (hit space, and click the cube’s side).&lt;br /&gt;
Draw the shape of the cap, using the dimensions below. The construction line (dashed) in the middle is connected to the origin at the other end of the pipe and is horizontal. It’s needed in the next step, so remember to include it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_17.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To turn this into the cap, a revolve is used. This spins the sketch around an axis to create a solid. In this case, the construction line is that axis. Select the revolve option, and if it does not automatically detect the center line (it did for me), click on the “axis of revolution” box and then select the line. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_18.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To round off the edges of the cap, let’s add a filet. Filets are an amazingly simple way to turn sharp corners into rounded edges. to add one, first click on the fillet tool, and then select the edge that you want to round off. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_19.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
And we have a cap!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once again, it’s a new body, so set it’s material to PVC just like the pipe body&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The last thing to make is the slider that makes this a slide whistle. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Start by creating a sketch on the right plane. On the sketch, draw a line that represents the path that the rod will follow. To make the curve on the end, use the centerpoint arc tool. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_20.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_21.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, we need to draw the outer shape of the rod. Create another sketch on the end of the cap and draw a 0.1” circle on the origin. Exit this sketch as well. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_22.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, a sweep is created using the 2 previous sketches. &lt;br /&gt;
Select the sweep tool, select the 2 sketches, and select the Bidirectional option (green).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_23.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This creates a rod with a curve at the end. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, we need to model the plastic plug that is attached to the end of the wire. As it is hidden inside the main body of the part, we need to do something to get access to it. Solidworks has a tool that makes this easy, called section view. To use it, click on the icon shown below: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_24.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This lets you drop a plane onto the part, and everything on the close side will be hidden. Don’t worry, it’s not gone. Just click the icon again to go back to the full part. &lt;br /&gt;
For this part, cut off the end of the pipe at the mouthpiece end. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_25.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Then, create a new sketch on the end of the wire. Draw 2 circles, one the size of the wire, and the other a little smaller than the inner diameter of the pipe. Extrude this sketch to a length of ½”. Make sure that “merge result” is not checked. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_26.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
And you’re done with the cad!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Make the parts==&lt;br /&gt;
* Now, it’s time to build it. Materials required: &lt;br /&gt;
* ½” PVC &lt;br /&gt;
* ½” PVC cap with hole in end &lt;br /&gt;
* ½” dowel  &lt;br /&gt;
* ½” delrin plug &lt;br /&gt;
* Welding rod &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_27.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, the notch in the pipe needs to be cut. It is important that this notch not be to large or to deep, as it will negatively effect the devices ability to make sound. &lt;br /&gt;
Start by using a hacksaw to cut a small notch vertically into the pipe. Mount the pipe in the rubber vice clamps and cut just until through the wall of the pipe. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_28.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, cut in at an angle to form the notch. To start the cut, it is helpful to take a couple strokes vertically, and then cut in at an angle from that starting point. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_29.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cut down to the vertical notch, removing the plastic triangle. The resulting notch will be rough, so next, use a wide file to smooth out the surface. Once the surface is smooth, remove the burs left on the inside of the cut with the deburring tool. Be careful not to remove too much material, as the tip of the notch needs to be thin and sharp to produce good sound. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_30.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_31.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, we need to bend the loop on the end of the wire rod. To do this, we will use the wire bender, which has a tutorial *here*. Use the ½” center peg and clamp the wire against it as shown below.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_32.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once the wire is clamped in place, use the bender to bend the wire around the center peg, forming a loop. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The last part to make before assembly is the wooden peg. The outer diameter should match the pipe’s inner diameter, but the flat side needs to be created. To do this, simply sand the peg against sand paper until a suitable flat surface is created. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Assembly==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, slide the cap onto the wire rod. Make sure it is pointing the right direction. Then, clamp the rod in the vice, with about ¾” protruding above it. Take the delrin cylinder, and using a mallet, gently pound it onto the wire. Stop once the wire is fully through the cylinder. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:slide_cad_33.png|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Lastly, slide the slide assembly into the pipe, and insert the wooden peg into the opposite end. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
And you’re done!&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Njonson19</name></author>
	</entry>
</feed>