Egg Shaker - Revision history

Swytsma23 at 20:42, 13 May 2025

2025-05-13T20:42:04Z

Swytsma23 at 20:40, 13 May 2025

2025-05-13T20:40:05Z

Swytsma23 at 20:34, 13 May 2025

2025-05-13T20:34:21Z

Swytsma23 at 20:26, 13 May 2025

2025-05-13T20:26:53Z

Swytsma23 at 20:24, 13 May 2025

2025-05-13T20:24:56Z

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Swytsma23 at 20:21, 13 May 2025

2025-05-13T20:21:15Z

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Swytsma23 at 20:19, 13 May 2025

2025-05-13T20:19:06Z

Swytsma23 at 20:14, 13 May 2025

2025-05-13T20:14:47Z

Swytsma23 at 18:25, 13 May 2025

2025-05-13T18:25:25Z

Swytsma23 at 18:24, 13 May 2025

2025-05-13T18:24:27Z

@@ Line 117: / Line 117: @@
 ==PrusaSlicer==
-<strong>Step 23:</strong> In the Prototype Lab, open your .stl file in [[PrusaSlicer]]. You should look for the following icon.
+<strong>Step 16:</strong> In the Prototype Lab, open your .stl file in [[PrusaSlicer]]. You should look for the following icon.
 [[File:PrusaSlicer Icon.png|150px|none|thumb|PrusaSlicer Icon]]
 <br>
 <br>
-<strong>Step 24:</strong> When a .stl file is loaded in PrusaSlicer, the software doesn't always get the orientation of the object correct (as in the first screenshot below). You may need to rotate your egg in order to put it in the correct orientation for 3D printing. You can use either the Rotate function or the Place on face function; both are located in the left-hand toolbar. Rotate the egg to ensure that the bottom of the egg is on the build plate.
+<strong>Step 17:</strong> When a .stl file is loaded in PrusaSlicer, the software doesn't always get the orientation of the object correct (as in the first screenshot below). You may need to rotate your egg in order to put it in the correct orientation for 3D printing. You can use either the Rotate function or the Place on face function; both are located in the left-hand toolbar. Rotate the egg to ensure that the bottom of the egg is on the build plate.
 [[File:Incorrect egg placement.png|1500px|none]]
 <br>
 <br>
-<strong>Step 25:</strong> Configuring your print settings for a 3D print is often a mix of objective and subjective decisions. Using the "right" print settings can make a big difference in the final quality of your part. Certain print settings may make the part fail entirely. The print settings used in this tutorial work for the 3D printed egg shaker, but they may or may not fall into the category of "general best practices for 3D printing." Disclaimers aside... In the right column, use the three drop-down menus to select: 0.15mm QUALITY and Prusa PLA. Select the correct printer (MK4 or MK4S) based on which printers are available. In the Supports drop-down menu, select Support on build plate only and allow PrusaSlicer to enable the Detect bridging perimeters feature. Set the Infill to 15% and check the Brim box.
+<strong>Step 18:</strong> Configuring your print settings for a 3D print is often a mix of objective and subjective decisions. Using the "right" print settings can make a big difference in the final quality of your part. Certain print settings may make the part fail entirely. The print settings used in this tutorial work for the 3D printed egg shaker, but they may or may not fall into the category of "general best practices for 3D printing." Disclaimers aside... In the right column, use the three drop-down menus to select: 0.15mm QUALITY and Prusa PLA. Select the correct printer (MK4 or MK4S) based on which printers are available. In the Supports drop-down menu, select Support on build plate only and allow PrusaSlicer to enable the Detect bridging perimeters feature. Set the Infill to 15% and check the Brim box.
 <br>
 <br>
-<strong>Step 25:</strong>
+<strong>Step 19:</strong>
 Navigate to the Print Settings menu, as seen below.
@@ Line 141: / Line 141: @@
 <br>
 <br>
-<strong>Step 26:</strong> Now go back to the Plater. Click the icon with a brush, this is the paint on supports option. You can then click Automatic Painting, however if there is a certain way/place you want your supports you can manually paint it on.
+<strong>Step 20:</strong> Now go back to the Plater. Click the icon with a brush, this is the paint on supports option. You can then click Automatic Painting, however if there is a certain way/place you want your supports you can manually paint it on.
 [[File:Egg supports.png|1500px|none]]
@@ Line 151: / Line 151: @@
 <br>
 <br>
-<strong>Step 27:</strong> In the left column, choose your print settings, typically best to choose from 0.15mm STRUCTURAL or 0.15mm SPEED, filament, typically PLA, printer, check availability and choose between mk4 or mk4s, and supports, depending on part choose everywhere or from build plate only.
+<strong>Step 21:</strong> In the left column, choose your print settings, typically best to choose from 0.15mm STRUCTURAL or 0.15mm SPEED, filament, typically PLA, printer, check availability and choose between mk4 or mk4s, and supports, depending on part choose everywhere or from build plate only.
 [[File:Sliced.png|1500px|none]]
 <br>
 <br>
-<strong>Step 28:</strong> For this part, we need the print to pause about half way through so we can fill it with beads. Drag down the slicer on the right to the point in which you want the print to pause, then right click the orange plus icon and click add pause, you can them name the command.
+<strong>Step 22:</strong> For this part, we need the print to pause about half way through so we can fill it with beads. Drag down the slicer on the right to the point in which you want the print to pause, then right click the orange plus icon and click add pause, you can them name the command.
 [[File:Pause.png|1500px|none]]
@@ Line 162: / Line 162: @@
 <br>
 <br>
-<strong>Step 30:</strong> Click Slice now in the bottom right corner. After PrusaSlicer finishes rendering, use the vertical slide bar on the right to step through each layer. You can zoom in/out with the scroll wheel and pan by clicking and holding the scroll wheel.
+<strong>Step 23:</strong> Click Slice now in the bottom right corner. After PrusaSlicer finishes rendering, use the vertical slide bar on the right to step through each layer. You can zoom in/out with the scroll wheel and pan by clicking and holding the scroll wheel.
 <br>
 <br>
 ==Printing==
-<strong>Step 31:</strong> If everything looks good, click Export G-code in the bottom right corner and save the G-code on an SD card. You are now ready to take the SD card to one of the Prusa 3D printers and begin your print (make sure the MK3/MK3S on the printer matches what you selected in PrusaSlicer). Log your print and use the dry erase markers to record your contact info and print duration. Clean the build plate with a few drops of alcohol before you start your print.
+<strong>Step 24:</strong> If everything looks good, click Export G-code in the bottom right corner and save the G-code on an SD card. You are now ready to take the SD card to one of the Prusa 3D printers and begin your print (make sure the MK3/MK3S on the printer matches what you selected in PrusaSlicer). Log your print and use the dry erase markers to record your contact info and print duration. Clean the build plate with a few drops of alcohol before you start your print.
 <br>
 <br>
-<strong>Step 32:</strong> It's a good idea to monitor the print's first layer closely. Ensure the first layer is adhering well to the build plate. The transition between the first and second layer occasionally requires attention as well. The print fan often turns on after the first layer is completed. If the fan speed of the print fan is too high, the nozzle/hotend will not be able to maintain the correct temperature for extruding. If the nozzle temperature stays more than 10 degrees below its set value for too long, a thermal runaway error will occur and the part will fail. The fan speed can be adjusted using the Tune menu on the printer as the print is going.
+<strong>Step 25:</strong> It's a good idea to monitor the print's first layer closely. Ensure the first layer is adhering well to the build plate. The transition between the first and second layer occasionally requires attention as well. The print fan often turns on after the first layer is completed. If the fan speed of the print fan is too high, the nozzle/hotend will not be able to maintain the correct temperature for extruding. If the nozzle temperature stays more than 10 degrees below its set value for too long, a thermal runaway error will occur and the part will fail. The fan speed can be adjusted using the Tune menu on the printer as the print is going.
 <br>
 <br>
-<strong>Step 33:</strong> When the print pauses, add in your material of choice, I uses craft beads. You are welcome to experiment with different shaker materials for various sounds and loudness. The internal volume of the egg is approximately 71ml, so 15ml of shaker material is a good place to start since it fills about 21% of the internal space. Ensure that the height of the shaker material inside the egg will not interfere with the movement of the nozzle/hotend. Resume the print and check on it periodically as it finishes.
+<strong>Step 26:</strong> When the print pauses, add in your material of choice, I uses craft beads. You are welcome to experiment with different shaker materials for various sounds and loudness. The internal volume of the egg is approximately 71ml, so 15ml of shaker material is a good place to start since it fills about 21% of the internal space. Ensure that the height of the shaker material inside the egg will not interfere with the movement of the nozzle/hotend. Resume the print and check on it periodically as it finishes.
 [[File:Shakerbeads.png|1500px|none]]
@@ Line 181: / Line 181: @@
 ==Finishing==
-<strong>Step 34:</strong> Once the print finishes, remove the entire build plate from the printer (it is magnetically held in place). Gently flex the build plate in various directions to loosen the print. Use your hands to pull the print and support structure off. Only use the scraper as a last resort for removing the print. Scrapers damage the build plate and shorten their lifespan. Reset the space for the next person who will use the printer after you.
+<strong>Step 27:</strong> Once the print finishes, remove the entire build plate from the printer (it is magnetically held in place). Gently flex the build plate in various directions to loosen the print. Use your hands to pull the print and support structure off. Only use the scraper as a last resort for removing the print. Scrapers damage the build plate and shorten their lifespan. Reset the space for the next person who will use the printer after you.
 <br>
 <br>
-<strong>Step 35:</strong> Remove all of the support structures from the egg and recycle them or throw them away. Use some sandpaper, hand files, and/or the [[Belt/Disc Sander]] to smooth out the places where the supports made contact with the egg.
+<strong>Step 28:</strong> Remove all of the support structures from the egg and recycle them or throw them away. Use some sandpaper, hand files, and/or the [[Belt/Disc Sander]] to smooth out the places where the supports made contact with the egg.
 <br>
 <br>
-<strong>Step 36:</strong> You should now have a functional egg shaker! Go make some music.
+<strong>Step 29:</strong> You should now have a functional egg shaker! Go make some music.
 [[File:Egg 36.jpg|900px|none]]

@@ Line 175: / Line 175: @@
 <strong>Step 33:</strong> When the print pauses, add in your material of choice, I uses craft beads. You are welcome to experiment with different shaker materials for various sounds and loudness. The internal volume of the egg is approximately 71ml, so 15ml of shaker material is a good place to start since it fills about 21% of the internal space. Ensure that the height of the shaker material inside the egg will not interfere with the movement of the nozzle/hotend. Resume the print and check on it periodically as it finishes.
-[[File:Pic.png|1500px|none]]
+[[File:Shakerbeads.png|1500px|none]]
 <br>
 <br>

@@ Line 168: / Line 168: @@
 <strong>Step 31:</strong> If everything looks good, click Export G-code in the bottom right corner and save the G-code on an SD card. You are now ready to take the SD card to one of the Prusa 3D printers and begin your print (make sure the MK3/MK3S on the printer matches what you selected in PrusaSlicer). Log your print and use the dry erase markers to record your contact info and print duration. Clean the build plate with a few drops of alcohol before you start your print.
 <br>
 <br>
 <strong>Step 32:</strong> It's a good idea to monitor the print's first layer closely. Ensure the first layer is adhering well to the build plate. The transition between the first and second layer occasionally requires attention as well. The print fan often turns on after the first layer is completed. If the fan speed of the print fan is too high, the nozzle/hotend will not be able to maintain the correct temperature for extruding. If the nozzle temperature stays more than 10 degrees below its set value for too long, a thermal runaway error will occur and the part will fail. The fan speed can be adjusted using the Tune menu on the printer as the print is going.
 <br>
 <br>
-<strong>Step 33:</strong> Approximately 2-3 hours into the print, pause it and add the shaker material. For this build, I used 15ml of crushed up PLA from old failed prints. You are welcome to experiment with different shaker materials for various sounds and loudness. The internal volume of the egg is approximately 71ml, so 15ml of shaker material is a good place to start since it fills about 21% of the internal space. Ensure that the height of the shaker material inside the egg will not interfere with the movement of the nozzle/hotend. Resume the print and check on it periodically as it finishes.
+<strong>Step 33:</strong> When the print pauses, add in your material of choice, I uses craft beads. You are welcome to experiment with different shaker materials for various sounds and loudness. The internal volume of the egg is approximately 71ml, so 15ml of shaker material is a good place to start since it fills about 21% of the internal space. Ensure that the height of the shaker material inside the egg will not interfere with the movement of the nozzle/hotend. Resume the print and check on it periodically as it finishes.
-[[File:Egg 33.jpg|1500px|none]]
+[[File:Pic.png|1500px|none]]
 <br>
 <br>

@@ Line 124: / Line 124: @@
 <strong>Step 24:</strong> When a .stl file is loaded in PrusaSlicer, the software doesn't always get the orientation of the object correct (as in the first screenshot below). You may need to rotate your egg in order to put it in the correct orientation for 3D printing. You can use either the Rotate function or the Place on face function; both are located in the left-hand toolbar. Rotate the egg to ensure that the bottom of the egg is on the build plate.
-[[File:Incorrect egg placement.png|1500px|left]]
+[[File:Incorrect egg placement.png|1500px|none]]
 <br>
 <br>
@@ Line 133: / Line 133: @@
 Navigate to the Print Settings menu, as seen below.
-[[File:Slicer1.png|1500px|left]]
+[[File:Slicer1.png|1500px|none]]
 <br>
 <br>
 Click on the Support Material menu. Notice that the majority of the options are locked, to access them you need to click on the Generate Support Material box. That allows for selection of support styles and specifications. In most cases you will want to use Organic supports, however there are times when Grid Supports or Snug Supports would be better for your part, but when in doubt, use Organic.
-[[File:Sl4.png|1500px|left]]
+[[File:Sl4.png|1500px|none]]
 <br>
 <br>
 <strong>Step 26:</strong> Now go back to the Plater. Click the icon with a brush, this is the paint on supports option. You can then click Automatic Painting, however if there is a certain way/place you want your supports you can manually paint it on.
-[[File:Egg supports.png|1500px|left]]
+[[File:Egg supports.png|1500px|none]]
 <br>
 <br>
 The blue dots represent where the supports will be on your project.
-[[File:Supports.png|1500px|left]]
+[[File:Supports.png|1500px|none]]
 <br>
 <br>
 <strong>Step 27:</strong> In the left column, choose your print settings, typically best to choose from 0.15mm STRUCTURAL or 0.15mm SPEED, filament, typically PLA, printer, check availability and choose between mk4 or mk4s, and supports, depending on part choose everywhere or from build plate only.
-[[File:Sliced.png|1500px|left]]
+[[File:Sliced.png|1500px|none]]
 <br>
 <br>
 <strong>Step 28:</strong> For this part, we need the print to pause about half way through so we can fill it with beads. Drag down the slicer on the right to the point in which you want the print to pause, then right click the orange plus icon and click add pause, you can them name the command.
-[[File:Pause.png|1500px|left]]
+[[File:Pause.png|1500px|none]]
-[[File:Pause1.png|1500px|left]]
+[[File:Pause1.png|1500px|none]]
 <br>
 <br>

@@ Line 127: / Line 127: @@
 <br>
 <br>
-<strong>Step 25:</strong> Configuring your print settings for a 3D print is often a mix of objective and subjective decisions. Using the "right" print settings can make a big difference in the final quality of your part. Certain print settings may make the part fail entirely. The print settings used in this tutorial work for the 3D printed egg shaker, but they may or may not fall into the category of "general best practices for 3D printing." Disclaimers aside... In the right column, use the three drop-down menus to select: 0.15mm QUALITY and Prusa PLA. Select the correct printer (MK4 or MK4S) based on which printers are available. In the Supports drop-down menu, select Support on build plate only and allow PrusaSlicer to enable the Detect bridging perimeters feature. Set the Infill to 30% and check the Brim box.
 Navigate to the Print Settings menu, as seen below.
 [[File:Slicer1.png|1500px|left]]

@@ Line 113: / Line 113: @@
 <strong>Step 16:</strong> You should now have a 3D egg similar to the screenshot below. Save your work! Then press Save As to save your file as a STL (*.stl). You will bring your STL file into the prototype lab to set it up in PrusaSlicer.
-[[File:Final egg solidwork.png|thumb]]
+[[File:Final egg solidwork.png|1500px|none]]
 ==PrusaSlicer==