Mood Lamp - Revision history

Gspivey at 05:48, 16 January 2024

2024-01-16T05:48:20Z

Gspivey: /* Route the shelf */

2019-08-08T15:28:23Z

Route the shelf

Gspivey: /* Electronics */

2019-07-18T23:44:00Z

Electronics

Gspivey: /* 3D Print the LED stand */

2019-07-18T23:42:38Z

3D Print the LED stand

Gspivey: /* Output wires (solid-core wires) */

2019-07-18T06:36:05Z

Output wires (solid-core wires)

Gspivey: /* Input wires (stranded wires) */

2019-07-18T06:31:43Z

Input wires (stranded wires)

Gspivey: /* Assemble the Proto-Screw Shield */

2019-07-18T06:23:53Z

Assemble the Proto-Screw Shield

Gspivey at 06:23, 18 July 2019

2019-07-18T06:23:05Z

Gspivey: /* Programming the Arduino */

2019-07-18T06:22:25Z

Programming the Arduino

Gspivey: /* Programming the Arduino */

2019-07-18T06:20:12Z

Programming the Arduino

← Older revision		Revision as of 05:48, 16 January 2024
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	== Bill of Materials ==		== Bill of Materials ==
		+	[https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/15U8mSvatrKNHKqPu6eNVy3LgCc526ikXjzVWxL_AvPo/edit#gid=0\| Parts List ]

	== Create the wooden "heels" and "slices" ==		== Create the wooden "heels" and "slices" ==

@@ Line 106: / Line 106: @@
 === Route the shelf ===
-Perform the pocket cut 1/8" deep. This requires the initial pocket cut over the entire region, followed by an inside cut to clean up the pocket cut. The system automatically stays slightly off of the line during the pocket cut as the edge is not as clean when large amounts of wood are being removed. Hence, the inside cut to clean.
+Perform the pocket cut 1/8" deep. This requires the initial pocket cut over the entire region, followed by an inside cut to clean up the pocket cut. The system automatically stays slightly off of the line during the pocket cut as the edge is not as clean when large amounts of wood are being removed. Hence, the inside cut to clean. You will want to offset the cut slightly (1/16"? - need to verify again) to make the insertion of the faceplate easier.
 === Route the hole ===

@@ Line 206: / Line 206: @@
 == Electronics ==
 The electronics are all about controlling the red, green, and blue intensities on an RGB LED strip - likely in some sort of fade pattern. Our specific RGB Led strip lights are rated at 12V, therefore, we will use a 12V transformer as an input. We will use an [https://www.arduino.cc/ Arduino] microcontroller. Specifically, the stalwart [https://store.arduino.cc/usa/arduino-uno-rev3 | Arduino UNO Rev3].   We need to add three power transistors to the Arduino to be able to deliver adequate power to the red, green, and blue LEDs of the led strip. Therefore, we will use the [https://www.adafruit.com/product/196 | Proto-Screw Shield] from [https://www.adafruit.com/ | Adafruit].
-Our system will be driving 12V led strips directly from the  power transformer input. You should not use a transformer significantly different than 12V. The circuit is show below as a [https://fritzing.org/home/ fritzing] breadboard diagram (click it to enlarge). You can also download an easier to read [[Media:TV_Mood_Lamp_fritzing.pdf|pdf]] or the original [[Media:TV_Mood_Lamp_fritzing.fzz|fritzing file]].
+Our system will be driving 12V led strips directly from the  power transformer input. You should not use a transformer significantly different than 12V. The circuit is shown below as a [https://fritzing.org/home/ fritzing] breadboard diagram (click it to enlarge). You can also download an easier to read [[Media:TV_Mood_Lamp_fritzing.pdf|pdf]] or the original [[Media:TV_Mood_Lamp_fritzing.fzz|fritzing file]].
 === Assemble the Proto-Screw Shield ===

@@ Line 190: / Line 190: @@
 * 4 Legs
 * 1 Table
-* 2 Extension cylinders
+* 3 Extension cylinders
 [[Image:TV_Mood_Lamp_LED_legs.png|x300px]]

@@ Line 226: / Line 226: @@
 The output system serves to drive the LED lights and consists of the internal wires on the shield. These lights will be connected to a 4-pin terminal in the center of your board. This terminal has power (white or black wire) and then wires for green, red, and blue signals. The power comes directly from the VIN pin ('''not''' the 5V pin). Each of the green, red, and blue signals is connected to a "low-side" MOSFET switch. The source of the MOSFET's are connected to GND, the drain is connected to the appropriate pin on the 4-pin header, and the gates are connected to pins 3 (green), 10 (red), and 11 (blue).
-HOW TO SOLDER ON A PROTOBOARD
+When soldering solid core wires onto prototype boards, you generally want to connect them to a component that is also soldered into the board. The easiest way to do this is to put the wire through a hole adjacent to the component lead, and then bend the wire over horizontally so that it is basically touching the lead. To accomplish this you will need to strip the wire a little longer to allow enough wire for the journey. Journey? Sure ... journey.
 === Testing the shield wiring ===

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 ==== Input wires (stranded wires) ====
 The Input wires connect the external components to the screw terminals. The input power jack connects from the center terminal (power) to one end of the power switch.  The other end of the power switch connects to the VIN of the Arduino system. The ground of the power jack must be connected to the GND of the Arduino system. The potentiometers should have their "low-side" tied together and then connected to the Arduino GND. They should also have their "high-side" tied together and then connected to the Arduino 5V regulated power. The wiper of each potentiometer should then be connected to A0 and A1 respectively. If hooked up "correctly," when the potentiometer is all the way "on," the wiper should be connected to the "high" side. Now, what constitutes "on" is left up to you. If these are hooked up incorrectly, then the wiper can be inverted in software as a simple fix.
 ==== Output wires (solid-core wires) ====

@@ Line 210: / Line 210: @@
 === Assemble the Proto-Screw Shield ===
-Assembly of the shield is straightforward. Directions are given at the [https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-proto-screw-shield/intro|Adafruit site]. There is no need to connect the LED's and resistors on the proto-shield. We will not be using them, and they will not be visible within our lamp. So, all you really need to assemble are the screw terminals (and the reset buttons is fine as well - doesn't hurt anything to have it, but it is sort of hard to press inside of the lamp).
+Assembly of the shield is straightforward. Directions are given at the [https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-proto-screw-shield/intro Adafruit site]. There is no need to connect the LED's and resistors on the proto-shield. We will not be using them, and they will not be visible within our lamp. So, all you really need to assemble are the screw terminals (and the reset buttons is fine as well - doesn't hurt anything to have it, but it is sort of hard to press inside of the lamp).
 [[Image:TV_Mood_Lamp_fritzing_circuit.png|x500px]]

@@ Line 241: / Line 241: @@
 * Change the code to test your other potentiometer.
-At this point we should test the LED lights (make sure they are plugged in). Prior to the setup function in your code, add in the following lines:
+At this point we should test the LED lights (make sure they are plugged in). Prior to the setup function in your code, add in the following lines:<pre>
 #define REDPIN (10)
 #define GREENPIN (3)
-#define BLUEPIN (11)
+#define BLUEPIN (11)</pre>
-</pre></code>
+And then, in your setup, add in the following:<pre>
    pinMode(REDPIN, OUTPUT);
    pinMode(GREENPIN, OUTPUT);
@@ Line 255: / Line 251: @@
    analogWrite(REDPIN, 255);
    analogWrite(GREENPIN, 255);
-   analogWrite(BLUEPIN, 255);
+   analogWrite(BLUEPIN, 255);</pre>
 When you run this code, it should turn the LED's all on, which will make a bright white light. Cool.
 Finally, when all appears to be working, download the [[Media:Mood_Light_Fader_Code.zip|fader code]] and test it. You should have a functioning system now! Congratulations.

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:20, 18 July 2019
Line 260:		Line 260:
	When you run this code, it should turn the LED's all on, which will make a bright white light. Cool.		When you run this code, it should turn the LED's all on, which will make a bright white light. Cool.

−	Finally, when all appears to be working, download the [[Media:Mood_Light_Fader_Code.~~ino~~\|fader code]] and test it. You should have a functioning system now! Congratulations.	+	Finally, when all appears to be working, download the [[Media:Mood_Light_Fader_Code.zip\|fader code]] and test it. You should have a functioning system now! Congratulations.