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== Description ==

== Description ==

The Prusa i3 MK3 is a 3D printer that includes a removable heatbed, filament sensor, and other unique features in order to rapidly prototype projects. The Prusa i3 MK3 comes in two different variants, single filament, and multi filament. It employs [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing Anchor|FDM Printing]]. The Prusa i3 MK3 is a powerful prototyping device that works best with smaller prints, with the print bed being approximately 8" x 8" x 9". The Prusa has a hard time with more complex geometric shapes, but it excels at printing smaller optimal quality models for testing and trying out products or ideas.

The Prusa MK4 is a 3D printer that includes a removable heatbed, filament sensor, and other unique features in order to rapidly prototype projects. The Prusa MK4 comes in two different variants, single filament, and multi filament. It employs [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing Anchor|FDM Printing]]. The Prusa MK4 is a powerful prototyping device that works best with smaller prints, with the print bed being approximately 8" x 8" x 9". The Prusa has a hard time with more complex geometric shapes, but it excels at printing smaller optimal quality models for testing and trying out products or ideas.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jizyu0nGH18}}

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jizyu0nGH18}}

==== User manuals ====

==== User manuals ====

* [https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-mk3/ Product Home Page]

 

* [https://prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mk3_en_3_04.pdf Prusa i3 MK3 Guide]

 

[https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-mk3/ Product Home Page]

==== '''Terminology''' ====

==== '''Terminology''' ====

* Filament: There are many different kinds of filament you can use on the 3D printer, ranging from PLA, to ABS, TPU to Nylon. The most common of these are PLA and ABS; the Prusas are usually set up with PLA. PLA stands for Polylactic Acid, it is the most common desktop 3D printing filament because it is odorless and very hard to warp on its own, therefore not always a need for a heated bed. ABS stands for Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene. It's one of the most commercial versions of plastic available (found in legos, packaging, and more)--it's durable, scratch resistant, and tough. Heated beds are a must with ABS filament because it is so temperature sensitive, so it warps very easily. The Prusas use 1.75 mm filament.

* Filament: There are many different kinds of filament you can use on the 3D printer, ranging from PLA, to ABS, TPU to Nylon. The most common of these are PLA and ABS; the Prusas are usually set up with PLA. PLA stands for Polylactic Acid, it is the most common desktop 3D printing filament because it is odorless and very hard to warp on its own, therefore not always a need for a heated bed. ABS stands for Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene. It's one of the most commercial versions of plastic available (found in legos, packaging, and more)--it's durable, scratch resistant, and tough. Heated beds are a must with ABS filament because it is so temperature sensitive, so it warps very easily. The Prusas use 1.75 mm filament.

* CAD Modeling and Thingiverse: There are two ways you can 3D print models. You can either design your own with a CAD (computer-aided design) software, or you can find something similar to what you want on websites like Thingiverse. Thingiverse has all sorts of community-contributed designs, which you can download the .stl files for, slice, and print the models. As for modeling your own projects, there are multiple softwares you can use such as SolidWorks, AutoCAD, Autodesk Inventor, FreeCAD, and many more.

* CAD Modeling and Thingiverse: There are two ways you can 3D print models. You can either design your own with a CAD (computer-aided design) software, or you can find something similar to what you want on websites like Thingiverse. Thingiverse has all sorts of community-contributed designs, which you can download the .stl files for, slice, and print the models. As for modeling your own projects, there are multiple softwares you can use such as SolidWorks, AutoCAD, Autodesk Inventor, FreeCAD, and many more.

* Slicing: Each 3D printer uses a slicer software, a software where you can import the model file (usually an .stl file) onto a computerized build plate, resize, change up the nozzle and bed temperatures, adjust the infill and precision, and more. The slicer software takes into consideration all your configurations, then "slices" it into a .gcode file, a set of instructions for the x, y, and z dimensions. The 3D printer can read and tell the stepper motors what to do from the set of instructions within the gcode. The slicer software used for the Prusa i3 MK3 is called Prusa Slicer.

* Slicing: Each 3D printer uses a slicer software, a software where you can import the model file (usually an .stl file) onto a computerized build plate, resize, change up the nozzle and bed temperatures, adjust the infill and precision, and more. The slicer software takes into consideration all your configurations, then "slices" it into a .gcode file, a set of instructions for the x, y, and z dimensions. The 3D printer can read and tell the stepper motors what to do from the set of instructions within the gcode. The slicer software used for the Prusa MK4 is called Prusa Slicer.

== Training ==

== Training ==

==== Overview ====

==== Operation ====

Printing on the Prusa will always start with an STL file that you export from Solidworks or download from the internet. However, the printer cannot interpret a STL file and must be converted to a gcode file which instructs the printer on how to complete the print. The process of creating a gcode is called "slicing" and is done in the Prusa Slicer software. Prusa Slicer allows you to customize any part of the print process and is color coded to distinguish simple settings from expert settings so you can tell which settings can be adjusted without risk of messing things up. For the most part, the preset setting options will work well but feel free to experiment with settings to improve print detail or speed (check out [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kW9SnK4LKc this video] for example). After you have sliced your STL file the rest of the setup is simple. Save the new gcode to the SD card found in the printer, turn on the machine, select "print from SD card" to find your file, and then click to start the print. Make sure to clean the print bed with isopropyl alcohol before the print starts and watch the print for the first five minutes to make sure it doesn't fail. Also, the video below walks through the setup process in detail starting from downloading a stl file which is helpful.

Printing on the Prusa will always start with an STL file that you export from Solidworks or download from the internet. However, the printer cannot interpret a STL file and must be converted to a gcode file which instructs the printer on how to complete the print. The process of creating a gcode is called "slicing" and is done in the Prusa Slicer software. Prusa Slicer allows you to customize any part of the print process and is color coded to distinguish simple settings from expert settings so you can tell which settings can be adjusted without risk of messing things up. For the most part, the preset setting options will work well but feel free to experiment with settings to improve print detail or speed (check out [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kW9SnK4LKc this video] for example). After you have sliced your STL file the rest of the setup is simple. Save the new gcode to the SD card found in the printer, turn on the machine, select "print from SD card" to find your file, and then click to start the print. Make sure to clean the print bed with isopropyl alcohol before the print starts and watch the print for the first five minutes to make sure it doesn't fail. Also, the video below walks through the setup process in detail starting from downloading a stl file which is helpful.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ttg2wEjD784&list=PLP1rv37BojTfJ5TjDXiSNqDnEPnvChsYZ&index=11}}

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ttg2wEjD784&list=PLP1rv37BojTfJ5TjDXiSNqDnEPnvChsYZ&index=11}}

# All you need to do is go to the menu, select the "Unload Filament" option, and the printer should start heating up.

# All you need to do is go to the menu, select the "Unload Filament" option, and the printer should start heating up.

# Once it heats up, it'll unload the filament and you can pull it out of the extruder.

# Once it heats up, it'll unload the filament and you can pull it out of the extruder.

# As for loading new filament, find the option in the menu labelled "Autoload Filament", and the printer will walk you through the instructions for loading the new spool of filament.

# As for loading new filament, find the option in the menu labelled "Autoload Filament", and the printer will walk you through the instructions for loading the new spool of filament.

Pausing or Stopping a Print:

Pausing or Stopping a Print:

# To pause a print in the middle of the job, press the knob and it'll pull up a printing menu. There are two options near the bottom, "Stop Print" and "Pause Print". If the print is failing, you definitely want to stop it. If you need to change filament or think you can save the print before it fails anymore, you can pause the print.

# To pause a print in the middle of the job, press the knob and it'll pull up a printing menu. There are two options near the bottom, "Stop Print" and "Pause Print". If the print is failing, you definitely want to stop it. If you need to change filament or think you can save the print before it fails anymore, you can pause the print.

Possible Print Failure Causes:

Possible Print Failure Causes:

# Faillure to adhere to the bed

# Failure of material to adhere to the bed.

# No support around the model

# No support around the model.

# First layer of the print warps

# The first layer of the print warps.

# Brim gets torn and dragged around

# The brim gets torn and dragged around

 

 

== Safety ==

== Safety ==

* Be careful what you touch; the nozzle and filament leaving it are over 200°C which will easily cause burns. Although only 60°C, the build plate should not be touched during printing.

* Be careful what you touch; the nozzle and filament leaving it are over 200°C which will easily cause burns. Although only 60°C, the build plate should not be touched during printing.

* Keep hands away from the travel rods because they will pinch fingers with ease.

* Keep hands away from the travel rods because they will pinch fingers with ease.

* Support material can be sharp so be careful when removing it.  

* Support material can be sharp so be careful when removing it.

 

 

Complete the <strong>Prototype Lab - {{PAGENAME}} Module</strong> at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}}. The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email <span style="color:blue">makerhub@georgefox.edu</span> if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/R6RF69 Maker Hub Canvas Course]

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31283 Prusa FoxTALE Course]

== Troubleshooting ==

== Troubleshooting ==